1. style and fashion
2. beauty
3. hair care

Color
Manual
1
Table of
Contents
Kenra Color™ from Kenra Professional® makes
it easier than ever to achieve simply stunning
results™. This high performance, straightforward,
2 Kenra Color™ – Simply Stunning Results™
and easy-to-use haircolor brand produces consistent,
reliable results that stylists can count on to provide
professional, true-to-tone haircolor solutions on
4 Hair Fundamentals
6 Haircolor Fundamentals
every client, every time.
Kenra Color is a complete professional haircolor
offering that is uniquely Kenra®. For high performance,
it incorporates Balancing Complex 5™, a proprietary
7 Color Theory
blend of attributes designed to provide vibrant,
long-lasting color; outstanding coverage and color
saturation; intense shine; improved condition and
8 Level System and Shade Identifier
manageability – all through an extremely gentle
formulation. To ensure straightforward and easy-to-
12 Kenra Color – Permanent
use haircolor for stylists, Kenra Color offers both
permanent and demi-permanent lines with a balanced
shade collection of warm and cool tones and a
20Kenra Color – Demi-permanent
23Color Support Products
24 Frequently Asked Questions
common level system. All shades are intermixable for
basic to advanced color formulation. Kenra Color also
features an easy measuring system and a drip-free
consistency for reliable and precise color application.
Kenra Color from Kenra Professional balances
and strengthens our overall brand portfolio, and it
represents our core values and beliefs by emphasizing
26Glossary
a commitment to the professional industry; nondiverted, truly professional, haircare solutions; and
high performance, high quality products.
1
What is Kenra Color?
Kenra Color – Simply Stunning Results
™
™
Kenra Color offers high quality, high performance haircolor
that is straightforward, easy-to-use and provides consistent,
reliable results.
Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5, a proprietary blend
of five essential attributes for haircolor that is simply stunning.
> Vibrant, long-lasting color
> Intense shine
KENRA COLOR™ from KENRA PROFESSIONAL®
At Kenra Professional, we are truly committed to
the professional beauty industry. Creating inner and
outer beauty with passion, integrity, and relationships
is the basis of everything we do. And, everything we
do is exclusively for salons and stylists with absolutely
zero tolerance for diversion. Kenra Color is an
extension of our core beliefs and values, and
it strengthens our overall brand portfolio.
Creating Inner and Outer Beauty
Stylists use haircolor to help their clients feel
confident and beautiful – whether they want a new
look or a more youthful appearance. Kenra Color
makes this possible by allowing stylists to color
confidently for simply stunning results.
Strengthening the Kenra Professional Portfolio
Kenra Color aligns with both Kenra Classic™ and Kenra Platinum™,
adding haircolor as the perfect complement to the unique position
of each wet line.
> The Kenra Classic brand consistently delivers professional
haircare solutions, enabling salon clients to achieve desired
results that make them confident in their appearance.
> The Kenra Platinum brand promises a prestige haircare
experience that aligns with salon clients’ discerning tastes for
high style. It helps them create their own unique statement.
Integrity
Kenra Color produces consistent, reliable results that
stylists can count on to provide professional, true-to-tone
haircolor solutions on every client, every time. Like all
Kenra Professional brands, Kenra Color is comprised of
high quality, high performance products that are
straightforward and easy-to-use. All formulations
are created and tested by stylists.
Relationships
Kenra Color allows Kenra Professional to serve the
professional beauty industry with a full service offering.
It encourages more meaningful partnerships with our
salons, and it represents incredible potential to help
our salons build and sustain their business.
2
> Gentle formulation
> Outstanding coverage and
color saturation
To ensure straightforward and easy-to-use haircolor for stylists, Kenra
Color offers both permanent and demi-permanent lines that provide:
> A balanced shade collection of warm and cool tones
> A common level system
> Intermixable shades for basic to advanced color formulation
> An easy measuring system and a drip-free consistency
for reliable and precise color application
The Kenra Color portfolio
Passion
Kenra Color reflects our passion because of the
expert insight that goes across every discipline – product
development, artistic, education, sales, and marketing –
to ensure a haircolor line that is uniquely Kenra.
> Improved condition
and manageability
Why Kenra Color?
Kenra Color addresses five important reasons stylists choose
a color brand.
1. Performance: Reliable, consistent results on every client,
every time with easy-to-use formulations
2. Shade Selection: A balanced collection of warm and cool tones
including 74 Permanent and 44 Demi-permanent shades
3. Loyalty: Kenra Color is an extension of the Kenra
Professional brand family which is known for high quality,
performance driven products
4. Great Price and “Shopability”: Priced perfectly and easy-toshop with packaging that prominently displays the shade / level
system and mix ratios
5. Education and Brand Support: Along with Kenra Color,
Kenra Professional features an Artistic Team, an Education Team,
and a Salon Loyalty Program to enhance our education, training,
and superior customer service efforts for stylists
> Permanent Coloring Creme: This gentle, low-ammonia color is
available in 74 shades with a level system ranging from 1 to 10.
It is specially formulated for consistent, reliable results when used
with Permanent Coloring Creme Developer 10–40 Volume.
> Demi-Permanent Coloring Creme: This gentle, ammonia-free,
deposit-only color is available in 44 shades with a level system
ranging from 1 to 10. It is specially formulated for consistent,
reliable results when used with Demi-permanent Coloring
Creme Activator 9 Volume.
> Permanent Lightening Powder (Lightener): This dust-free
powder has a lifting strength of up to 7 levels in a single
application. Lightener features a blue-violet base to help control
warm tones when lifting. Extremely versatile, it can be applied
both on and off the scalp, when mixed with Permanent Developer
10–30 Volume in different ratios for multiple blonding effects.
The mixture’s creamy consistency retains moisture and is drip-free.
> Color Support Products: These products ensure simply stunning
results. The Color Correcting System, Porosity Equalizing Spray,
and Stain Removing Wipes are designed to be incorporated into
any Permanent or Demi-permanent color service.
3
Hair Fundamentals
Structure & Characteristics
Characteristics
The success of any haircolor service depends on the coloring
products, techniques, and the physical nature of the hair itself.
This section explores the fundamentals of hair – its structure
and its unique characteristics – and their roles in the
haircolor process.
Structure
Medulla
Texture is the diameter of the individual hair strand. Determining
hair texture by touching and visually examining it tells you what
the hair can and cannot do on its own. Texture is generally
referred to as fine, medium, or coarse.
Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb and hold moisture regardless
of texture. Porosity is a key factor in determining how hair will accept
and hold color, assessing the hair’s porosity is critical for color and
developer selection. Factors that contribute to hair’s porosity include
prior chemical services, environmental damage, and mechanical (hot
tools) damage. Porosity ranges from low to high:
> May not contain a medulla layer
Cortex
Cortex
The cortex is the center part of the hair and makes up most
of the hair shaft. It gives the hair its special qualities such
as elasticity and curl. The cortex is packed with strands
of keratin that lie along the length of the hair. Artificial or
oxidative pigments are developed / oxidized (transformed
into colored dye molecules) in the cortex with permanent
and demi-permanent haircolor.
Medulla
The medulla is the canal-shaped innermost part
of human hair. It has no known function.
Not all hair contains a medulla.
Porosity
>Fine:
> Is made up of melanin granules that are grouped together
tightly and can impact the haircolor absorption rate for a
quicker uptake
Each strand of hair has three main components:
Cuticle
The cuticle is the outside layer of the hair shaft. It is composed
of transparent, overlapping, protective scale-like cells. The
cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair. A healthy,
flat cuticle layer promotes strength and shine.
Texture
>Medium:
> Has an average response to color
>Average: Hair absorbs color at a standard rate
>High: Hair absorbs color quickly and also tends to fade more
readily. It may require special care and is susceptible to damage.
Porosity can be even or uneven:
> Is the normal hair type most commonly found
>Even: Hair accepts and holds color uniformly
> Contains all three layers (medulla, cortex, and cuticle)
> Uneven Porosity: Hair has sections that are damaged and
where the cuticle is raised. Therefore, it may take color differently
or fade unevenly creating an inconsistent look. Additional
chemical, mechanical, or environmental damage may cause
random breakage.
>Coarse:
> Usually has scales on the cuticle that are closely overlapped
and raised away from the hair shaft allowing it to readily
absorb water and chemicals such as haircolor
Cuticle
>Low: Hair may absorb color at a slower rate
> Can have a slower absorption rate
Formation
> Contains all three layers (medulla, cortex, and cuticle)
Hair formation refers its shape and pattern. It can influence the look
of color because it affects the way light is reflected or absorbed.
Forms of hair are described as straight or wavy / curly:
Density
The density of the hair is determined by the number of active
hair follicles per square inch on the scalp. It can influence the look
of color because it affects the way light is reflected
or absorbed. Density is usually referred to as light, average, or thick.
>Straight: Is generally more reflective because of its solid,
smooth surface
> Wavy / curly: Can absorb light and may look less reflective
>Light: Can add more light reflection
>Average: Can provide a medium level of light reflection
and absorption
>Thick: Can absorb light and can be less reflective
Density influences how much color mixture is needed.
4
5
Haircolor Fundamentals
Color Theory
Pigment Types
Color Defined
Direct Dyes: These are color pigments that can actually be seen.
They do not require an oxidative agent (hydrogen peroxide).
Direct dye pigments are typically larger and remain on the outer
portion of the hair shaft. They can have a staining effect on the hair.
> Color is the way an object reflects or emits light
The Law of color
Primary colors:
Primary colors are the three colors from which all other color are made.
Indirect Dyes: These are also called oxidative or intermediate
dyes. They require an oxidative agent such as hydrogen
peroxide to develop the pigments. The pigments oxidize
within the cortex of the hair shaft.
> Yellow, Red, Blue
Secondary colors:
Secondary colors are made by mixing two primary colors.
Haircolor Categories
Permanent Haircolor: This type of color permanently
alters the hair shaft, can be a combination of direct and
indirect pigments, and can cause movement or lift of
natural melanin and deposit in one process.
Demi-permanent Haircolor: This type of color can be a
combination of direct and indirect pigments and needs to
be mixed with an oxidative agent to encourage full oxidation
of indirect pigments. It is deposit only.
The pH scale and color
Increasing Acidity
Neutral
Increasing Alkalinity
01 2345678910
11
12
13
14
Assists in closing and
sealing the cuticle
Kenra® Shampoos and Conditioners
Opens and swells
the cuticle
Kenra Color™ Haircolor
> Yellow + Red = Orange
> Red + Blue = Violet
> Blue + Yellow = Green
Tertiary colors:
Tertiary colors are made by mixing a primary color with
a secondary color.
> Yellow + Orange = Yellow Orange
> Red + Orange = Red Orange
> Red + Violet = Red Violet
pH and Haircolor
> Blue + Violet = Blue Violet
pH (potential hydrogen): It is the range of numbers
expressing the relative acidity or alkalinity of a solution.
In general, pH values range from 0 to 14. The pH of a
neutral solution, one that is neither acidic nor alkaline,
is 7. Acidic solutions have pH values below 7. Alkaline,
or basic, solutions have pH values above 7.
> Blue + Green = Blue Green
The alkalinity in permanent haircolor, in conjunction with the
hydrogen peroxide in the developer, creates a chemical reaction
that opens and swells the cuticle and allows melanin to be lifted
and / or color to be deposited.
Because Kenra shampoos and conditioners are pH based at a
level of 4.5 – 5.5, they assist in color retention and maintaining the
healthy condition of hair and in closing and sealing the cuticle.
6
> Yellow + Green = Yellow Green
Complementary Colors:
The colors found on the opposite side of the color wheel
are referred to as complementary colors. In haircolor,
they have several important functions:
> They neutralize or cancel out the other one when
they are mixed together, and produce a neutral color,
such as dark gray or brown
> They neutralize any unwanted tones in the hair. For example,
a blue-based color eliminates unwanted orange tones
> They also complement each other when placed side by side
7
Level System & Shade Identifier
Kenra Color Level System Defined
Kenra Color Shade Identifier
The Kenra Color Level System denotes the degree of darkness or
lightness of hair. It ranges from 1–10 with 1 representing the darkest
form of brown (referred to as Black) and 10 indicating the lightest
(referred to as Extra Light Blonde).
The Kenra Color Shade Identifier is easy to read and follows a
standard numerical and alphabetical identification system.
> Number = Level identification
> First letter = Dominant color reflection
> Second letter = Secondary color reflection
Level
10 Extra Light Blonde
09 Light Blonde
08Blonde
07 Medium Blonde
06 Dark Blonde
05 Light Brown
04 Medium Brown
Kenra Color
Level system
™
Note: The Kenra Color™
Level System does not
observe level two because
levels below three are
difficult to differentiate to
the human eye
03 Dark Brown
Kenra Color offers a variety of shade families and tones to fit
the needs of any client. Each shade series allows for ease of
mixing and delivers intense shine and coverage.
Natural: Combination of the three primary colors. It is calibrated at
the designated level to achieve optimal gray coverage (Permanent)
and gray blending (Demi-permanent). The Natural Series should
be added into any formulation to achieve gray coverage (See Gray
Coverage chart). The Natural Series can be used as the desired
tone as well.
Natural Ash: Covers and blends gray while controlling underlying
pigment in a single process. Calibrated at each level to optimize
gray coverage and neutralize warmth.
01Black
Dominant Color
Ash: Removes unwanted warmth to produce a cooler end result.
The Ash Series is formulated to neutralize underlying pigment
when lifting haircolor. Ash tones are a tool to use for neutralization
of unwanted tones.
Ash Ash: Increased ash pigments for added neutralization
of unwanted warm tones.
Level
Secondary
Reflection
Copper: Brilliant warm red / orange tones.
Shade Chart
Copper Gold: Brilliant reflective copper results supported
by gold undertones for increased light reflection and vibrancy.
NNatural
Red: Brilliant red tones specially formulated to create ravishing
red tones in the hair.
AAsh
AA
Ash Ash
Red Red: Superior vibrancy and pure red end results.
B
Brown / Beige
Red Brown: Combination of pigments – red supported
by secondary reflection of brown.
BC
Brown Copper
Red Copper: Combination of pigments – red supported by copper
undertones for vibrancy.
GB
Violet Red: Combination of pigments – cool violet supported
by red undertones for cool vibrancy at darker levels.
CG
NA
Natural Ash
GGold
Gold Brown / Beige
CCopper
Copper Gold
RRed
RR
Red Red
RB
Red Brown
RC
Red Copper
VR
Violet Red
RV
Red Violet
Violet*: Ultra pale violet tone to reduce or tone unwanted yellow.
This can be used as a tool or for desired tone.
PV
Pearl Violet
* Demi-permanent only
Clear
Red Violet: Combination of pigments – red supported by cool violet
undertones for a cool red violet with vibrancy.
Pearl Violet*: Combination of blue violet and violet tones
to neutralize unwanted yellow gold tones at lighter levels.
This can be used as a tool or for desired tone.
VViolet
Gloss (no pigment)
Brown / Beige: Warm reflective brown tones from levels 4–7
and beige for levels 8–10.
Brown Copper: Combination of pigments – warm brown
tones supported by copper undertones.
Example:
6RB
Level = 6
Dominant Color = Red (R)
Secondary Reflection = Brown (B)
8
Gold: Adds warmth to any color, increased light reflection,
and a natural gold tonality.
Gold Brown: Combination of pigments – gold supported
by brown undertones.
9
Kenra Color Shade Chart
P = Permanent
D = Demi-permanent
NATURAL
1N
P/D
Natural Ash
3N
P/D
4N
P/D
5N
P/D
6N
P/D
7N
P/D
8N
P/D
9N
P
5NA
P/D
10N
P/D
ASH
1A
D
4A
P/D
5A
P
6A
P/D
7A
P/D
8A
P
9A
P
10A
D
5B
P/D
6B
P
7B
P/D
8B
P/D
10B
D
4BC
P
10
6BC
P
6G
P/D
7G
P
8G
P/D
9G
P
10G
D
5GB
P
8C
P/D
5CG
P/D
7CG
P/D
4R
P/D
5R
P
6R
P/D
7R
P
8AA
P
4RB
P
5RB
P/D
3VR
P/D
7BC
P
10GB
P
6RR
P/D
7RR
P
RED COPPER
6RB
P
7RB
P/D
5RC
P
6RC
P/D
RED Violet
5VR
P/D
3RV
P
Clear
9GB
P/D
4RR
P/D
5RV
P
6RV
P
Pearl
Violet
VIOLET
9PV
D
10V
D
Booster
Gloss
D
Red
P
Copper
P
Gold
P
Violet
P
Blue
P
High Lift
COPPER GOLD
6C
P/D
8GB
P/D
8NA
P/D
VIOLET RED
GOLD BROWN
COPPER
5C
P/D
7AA
P
BROWN COPPER
GOLD
5G
P
6AA
P
7NA
P/D
RED RED
RED BROWN
ASH ASH
BROWN
4B
P/D
6NA
P/D
RED
8CG
P
9CG
P
Gold
Natural
P
Natural
P
Pearl
Ash
P
Ash
P
Blonding
Creme
P
11
UNDERLYING PIGMENT
Kenra Color – Permanent
Underlying Pigment
Neutralizing Color
10 Extra Light Blonde
Pale Yellow
Ash or Violet
09 Light Blonde
Yellow Gold
Ash or Pearl Violet
08 Blonde
Light Gold
Ash
Permanent Coloring Creme
Underlying Pigment
07 Medium Blonde
Gold
Ash
> Features Balancing Complex 5
06 Dark Blonde
Gold Orange
Ash
> Available in a wide array of multi-dimensional tones
> Refers to the pigment or undertones that are
exposed anytime natural haircolor is lifted
> Generally affects the outcome of a color formulation
when there is lifting of two or more levels
05 Light Brown
Orange
Ash
> Specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Permanent
Developers 10V-40V for consistent, reliable results
04 Medium Brown
Dark Orange
Ash
03 Dark Brown
Red Orange
N/A
01 Black
Darkest Red Orange
N/A
Permanent Color is recommended when:
> The desired color is lighter than the natural color
> The desired color is more vibrant than the natural color
> The desired color is darker than the natural color
> Gray coverage is desired
Permanent Coloring Creme Developer
> Features Balancing Complex 5
> Available in 10V (3%), 20V (6%), 30V (9%), and
40V (12%) strengths
> The volume of developer affects underlying pigment
exposed in the lifting process
> It is often necessary to add a neutralizing color
into a formulation to ensure control of unwanted
underlying pigment
Remember: The final results of any haircolor
service rely on a blend of the color selected
by the stylist and the contribution of
underlying pigment
Gray Coverage
% of Gray
% of Natural Series
% of Desired Color
Gray Coverage
25%
25%
75%
> Stabilized and balanced at each dedicated volume to ensure
proper lift of natural hair and oxidation of dye intermediates
> Gray hair is typically more resistant to coloration
because it has a harder cuticle layer
50%
50%
50%
> Specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Permanent
Coloring Creme to provide consistent, reliable results
> It is often thought to be very healthy and void of all
natural pigment, but in reality, gray hair is the lightest
form of the three primary colors
50–100%*
75%
25%
> Creamy consistency allows for easy mixing and
precise application
DEVELOPER / LEVELS OF LIFT
Developer
Levels of Lift
10 Volume (3%)
Tone-on-tone / deposit only*
20 Volume (6%)
1 level of lift / deposit / gray coverage*
30 Volume (9%)
2–3 levels of lift*
40 Volume (12%)
3–4 levels of lift*
*Based on texture, density, and porosity
*When hair is 80% gray or more, Developer 20V is recommended.
> It requires increased pigmentation for coverage
> Kenra Color Natural Series provides the essential
balance of pigments to ensure even color saturation
and maximum pigment uptake
12
Level
> The Natural Series should be incorporated into all
gray coverage formulations Standard Mixing and Processing for
Kenra Color Permanent Color
Mixing Ratio:
One part Permanent Coloring
Creme plus one part Developer (1:1)
Processing Time:
30 Minutes
Processing Time for Gray Coverage:
Up to 40 Minutes
13
Final Formulation:
2 oz. 5B + 2 oz. Developer 20 Volume
Processing Time:
30 Minutes
5 Easy Steps to color formulation
Step 1
Kenra Color simplifies the art of haircolor formulation with
five easy steps that help create successful formulations
for every client, every time.
Step 2
Example 2: DEPOSIT
The client is a natural level 7. The desired level is 6RB
(1 level darker) with a rich red brown tone. The client
has 0% gray hair.
STEP 1: Determine the natural level of the hair
> Analyze the client’s natural level by holding the
Natural Series swatches against the client’s
regrowth area and determining which one
achieves a blend of the same level
Formulation Notes
1: The natural level is 7
Step 3
> Remember, you are only looking for the level
of the natural hair, not the tonality
>
Step 4
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is not a factor as color
is being deposited, not lifted
Final Formulation:
2 oz. 6RB + 2 oz. Developer 10 or 20 Volume
STEP 2: Determine the desired level / desired tone
> Select appropriate color shade using your swatch
book for reference
STEP 4: Determine the percentage of gray
> Identify the correct percentage of gray to assess how
much of the Natural Series should be incorporated into
the formulation
Step 5
Finalize the formulation
5 Easy Steps to Color Formulation
Step
Action
Step 1
Determine the natural level of the hair
Step 2
Determine the desired level / desired tone
Step 3
Define levels of lift, deposit, or tonal change
Step 4
Identify the percentage of gray
Step 5
Identify the underlying pigment
> When hair is 80% gray or more, Developer 20V
is recommended
> Recommended processing time is up to 40 minutes
> See Gray Coverage chart
STEP 5: Identify the underlying pigment
> Determine the underlying pigment at the desired level
you are coloring to (See Underlying Pigment chart).
> Assess whether it will enhance the desired color
shade / tone or if you will need to add a neutralizing /
controlling color shade / tone to the formulation to
neutralize the underlying pigment
Note: When steps 1–5 are complete, finalize the formulation
by writing it out, making sure to include the selected Developer
and the processing time
14
2: The desired level / desired tone is 6RB
3: The level of deposit is 1
If the natural hair level falls between two levels,
choose the lighter level when depositing color
(going darker), or darker level when lifting
color (going lighter)
STEP 3: Define levels of lift, deposit, or tonal change
> Use the Developer / Levels of Lift chart to determine
the volume of Developer required to ensure proper
lifting during the coloring process
Recap: The natural level is a 4 with no gray. The desired
level and tone is 5B. Because only one level of lift is required,
the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying
pigment does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio
is equal parts of Developer 20 Volume and 5B. Processing
time is 30 minutes.
Standard Color Formulation Examples
Example 1: Lift
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter)
with a rich brown tone. The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B
3: The level of lift is 1
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is not a factor (only one level of lift)
Processing Time:
30 Minutes
the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying
pigment does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is
1 part 5N plus 1 part 5B plus 2 parts Developer 20 Volume
(See Gray Coverage chart). Processing time is 40 minutes.
EXAMPLE 4: GRAY COVERAGE WITH THE
NATURAL ASH SERIES
The client is a natural level 6. The desired level is 7
(1 level higher) with a natural ash tone. The client has
50% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1. The natural level is 6
2. The desired level / desired tone is 7NA
3. The level of lift is 1
4. The percentage of gray is 50
5. The underlying pigment is not a factor
(only one level of lift)
Final Formulation:
1 oz. 7NA + 1 oz. Developer 20 Volume
Processing Time:
40 minutes
Recap: The natural level is 6 with 50% gray. The desired level and
tone is 7NA. Because only 1 level of lift is required, the formulation
uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying pigment does not
impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is 1 part 7NA plus 1 part
Developer 20 Volume. Processing time is 40 minutes.
Recap: The natural level is a 7 with no gray. The desired
level and tone is 6RB. Because it is 1 level darker, the
formulation uses Developer 10 or 20 Volume and underlying
pigment is not a factor. The mixing ratio is 1 part 6RB
plus 1 part Developer 10 or 20 Volume. Processing time
is 30 minutes.
Example 5: Underlying Pigment
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 7 (3 levels
lighter) with a brown tone. The client has 0% gray hair.
Example 3: Gray Coverage with natural series
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter)
with a rich brown tone. The client has 50% gray hair.
3: The level of lift is 3
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
Final Formulation:
1 oz. 7A + 1 oz. 7B + 2 oz. Developer 40 Volume
2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B
3: The level of lift is 1
4: The percentage of gray is 50
5: The underlying pigment is not a factor (only one level of lift)
Final Formulation:
1 oz. 5N + 1 oz. 5B + 2 oz. Developer 20 Volume
Processing Time:
40 Minutes
Recap: The natural level is a 4 with 50% gray. The desired
level and tone is 5B. Because only 1 level of lift is required,
Formulation Notes
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 7B
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is gold
Processing Time:
30 Minutes
Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 7B.
For three levels of lift, the formulation requires Developer 40 Volume.
To balance the exposed gold underlying pigment, a neutralizing
color (ash) is incorporated. The 7A helps to control the gold tones
at a level 7 (See Underlying Pigment chart). The mixing ratio is
1 part 7A plus 1 part 7B plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume
(Note: The amount of the neutralizing color can vary as desired).
Processing time is 30 minutes.
15
High Lift
Blonding Creme
> Provides the ability to create superior single process blondes
achieving 4–5 levels of lift with maximum neutralization of
underlying pigment
> Features a specially developed base to support lighter lifting
and neutralization of underlying pigments
> Provides best results on level 6 and above, but it can
also be used on level 5 for a warmer end result
> All versions provide the same lift with varying degrees of
neutralization of underlying pigment
Example: standard formulation
The client is a natural level 6. The desired level is 10 (4 levels lighter)
for a Golden Natural Blonde. The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 6
2: The desired level / desired tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde
3: The level of lift is 4
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is pale yellow
Final Formulation:
1 oz. High Lift Gold Natural + 2 oz. Developer 40 Volume
Processing Time:
45 minutes
Standard Mixing and Processing for
Kenra Color Permanent High Lift
Mixing Ratio:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme
plus two parts Developer (1:2)
Recap: The natural level is 6. The desired level and tone
is 10 Golden Natural Blonde. To achieve this level of lift,
Developer 40 Volume is required to mix with the High Lift
Gold Natural (See High Lift chart). The underlying pigment
at a level 10 is pale yellow and is addressed with the pale
blue violet neutralizing pigments. The mixing ratio is 1 part
High Lift plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume. Processing time
is 45 minutes.
Processing Time:
45 Minutes
EXAMPLE 1: STANDARD FORMULATION for
adding blonding creme TO A PERMANENT
COLOR FORMULAtion
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 8 (4 levels lighter)
with a copper tone. The client has 0% gray hair. The underlying
pigment exposed is light gold at a level 8.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 8C
3: The level of lift is 4
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is light gold
Final Formulation:
1 oz. 8C + 1 oz. Developer 40 Volume + ½ oz. Blonding Creme
HIGH LIFT
16
> Provides extra lifting support when added to a
Kenra Color Permanent formulation
> Features the same specialized base as the
High Lift Series
> May be added into any formulation, up to
¼ of the mixed color formula
> Achieves ½–1 level of additional lift
> It is colorless – no pigment or neutralization of
underlying pigment
> Can also be used for a natural highlighting effect when
mixed 1:2 with Developer 10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume
High Lift Shade
Used on Natural Level
Volume of Developer
Timing
End Result
Gold Natural
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Golden Natural Blonde
Natural
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Natural Blonde
Pearl Ash
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Cooler Blonde
Ash
Levels 5 or 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Coolest Blonde
Processing Time:
30 Minutes
Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone
is 8C. To achieve this level of lift, Developer 40 Volume is
required. ½ ounce of Blonding Creme is added to get additional
lift. The underlying pigment is light gold. The mixing ratio is 1 part
8C plus 1 part Developer 40 Volume plus ½ part Blonding Creme.
Processing time is 30 minutes.
Blonding Creme Mixing Ratio Formula
Blonding Creme
Mixing Ratio Formula%
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme
For 1/2–1
Level of Lift
1 oz. Permanent Developer
½ oz. Blonding Creme
(up to ¼ of total formulation)
Natural
Highlighting
1 oz. Blonding Creme
2 oz. Permanent Developer
EXAMPLE 2: STANDARD MIXING & PROCESSING FOR
BLONDING CREME WHEN USED FOR A NATURAL
HIGHLIGHTING EFFECT
Mixing Ratio:
One part Blonding Creme plus
two parts Developer 10V–40V (1:2)
Example:
1 oz. Blonding Creme
2 oz. Developer 10V–40V
Processing Time:
Up to 45 Minutes
This will give a natural highlighting effect in the hair.
The end result will have warmth to the color.
17
Color Booster
Permanent Lightening Powder (Lightener)
> Designed to increase color vibrancy or give special effects
to any permanent color formulation
> Formulated with specifically balanced color dyes to make
it easy to create signature haircolor or special effects
> Can be used for special effect coloring on
pre-lightened hair
Example 1: Increased Vibrancy
The client is a natural level 5. The desired level is 6 (1 level lighter)
with a vibrant copper tone. This client has 0% gray hair.
Mixing Ratio:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer
10–40V (1:1) plus Copper Booster above 1:1 mixing ratio.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 5
Color Booster
2: The desired level / desired tone is 6C
3: The level of lift is 1
Booster
Shade
Effect
4: The percentage of gray is 0
Gold
Additional gold reflection to any level
5: The underlying pigment is gold orange
Blue
Blue enhancement to level 5 and below
Violet
Violet reflection to level 6 and below
Final Formulation:
1 oz. 6C + ¼ oz. Copper Booster + 1 oz. Developer 20 Volume
Copper
Added copper reflection to any level
Red
Enhanced red reflection to levels 7 and below
Color Booster Mixing Ratio Formula
Booster Use
Mixing Ratio Formula
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme
For Increased
Vibrancy
1 oz. Permanent Developer
Add up to ¼ oz. Color Booster
1 oz. Color Booster
Special Effects
1 oz. Permanent Developer
Apply to dry, previously lightened hair
Processing Time:
30 Minutes
> Removes natural or artificial pigments, both oxidative
and direct, to help eliminate unwanted tones such as
ash or red
> Should be used any time 5 or more levels of lift are required
> Features a dust-free powder lightener with a lifting strength
of up to 7 levels in a single application
> Features a blue-violet base to help control warm tones
Standard Mixing and Processing for Lightener
Mixing Ratio:
1 Level Scoop: 1 part Developer (up to 1:3)
Processing Time:
Check result regularly during processing.
Do not exceed 60 minutes.
> Can be applied both on and off the scalp
> Specially formulated to be mixed with Kenra Color
Permanent Developer 10–30V to achieve a creamy
mixture that retains moisture and is drip-free for
ease of use
> Can be used for creative coloring techniques
Kenra Color Permanent Lightener Services
> Foiling / special highlight effects
> Full head double process
> Corrective haircoloring
>Balayage
Recap: Based on the natural level 5 hair, the Developer 20 Volume
is needed to get 1 full level of lift. The underlying pigment from a
level 5 to a level 6 is gold orange (Note: The underlying pigment
does not need neutralization; it will add to the end result in a positive
way). To achieve the intense copper tone, the Copper Booster is
added to the overall formula. Processing time is 30 minutes.
EXAMPLE 2: Special Effects
Mixing Ratio:
One part Color Booster plus one part Developer 10 Volume (1:1).
Apply to dry pre-lightened hair.
>Freehand
Developer choices and application
Developer Choices
Application
10 Volume (3%)
On or off the scalp
20 Volume (6%)
On or off the scalp
30 Volume (9%)
Off the scalp
Example:
1 oz. Color Booster
1 oz. Developer 10 Volume
Processing Time:
30 Minutes
18
19
Kenra Color – Demi-permanent
Demi-Permanent Coloring Creme
Demi-permanent Services
> Features Balancing Complex 5
Color Enhancing Service
To enhance any natural color tone or deepen an existing
color tone, first determine the client’s natural level. Then,
choose the appropriate tone to accentuate, neutralize,
or deepen. Use standard instructions.
> Ammonia-free, deposit-only color
> For use without heat
> Specially formulated for use with Kenra Color
Demi-permanent Activator 9 Volume for consistent,
reliable results
> Provides multiple service options and allows for
maximum creativity: Color Enhancing, Color Equalizing,
Gray Blending, Clear Glossing, Toning Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator
> Features Balancing Complex 5
> Allows for complete oxidation of all pigments in color mixture
>Deposit-only
> Specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Demi-permanent
Coloring Creme for consistent, reliable results
Color Equalizing Service
Color Equalizing offers predictable even color results
with maximum pigment retention every time.
Mix Ratio:
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme + 1 oz. Developer
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Activator
Note: This service requires two separate formulations
(permanent and demi-permanent)
Application:
> Apply Permanent formula to new growth and
process for 15 minutes
> Then, apply Demi-permanent formula from
mid-length to ends
Standard Mixing and Processing for
Kenra Color Demi-permanent Color
20
Processing Time:
15–25 Minutes
Mixing Ratio:
One part Demi-permanent
Coloring Creme plus two parts
Activator 9V (1:2)
Tips:
> On porous hair, spray the ends with Kenra Color
Porosity Equalizing Spray. Then, apply Demi-permanent
Coloring Creme on mid-length and ends of hair
Application:
Apply from scalp to ends
> Demi-permanent Clear can be added to any formulation
to dilute the deposit amount of the pigment while
providing maximum shine
Processing Time:
5–25 Minutes
Gray Blending service
The Kenra Color Demi-permanent line offers exceptional gray
blending with its non-ammonia formulations. This is the perfect
suggestion for clients who don’t want to commit to a permanent
haircolor. Formulating with the Natural or Natural Ash Series ensures
optimal gray blending.
Standard Mixing and Processing for
Kenra Color Demi-permanent Gray Blending
Mixing Ratio:
Natural Series – One part combination of desired
Demi-permanent Coloring Creme shade and Natural Series
plus one part Demi-permanent Activator (1:1)
Natural Ash Series – One part desired Natural Ash
Demi-permanent Coloring Creme shade plus one part
Demi-permanent Activator (1:1)
Application:
Apply to dry hair
Processing Time:
5–25 Minutes
21
DEMI-PERMANENT SERVICES
Clear Glossing Service
This Clear Glossing Service is for previously colored, lightened,
or highlighted hair, or to add gloss to natural hair. This deposit-only
formulation ensures maximum shine and condition on any hair type.
Mixing Ratio:
One part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus
two parts Activator 9 Volume (1:2)
Services
Formulation
Enhancing
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme +
2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply formula from scalp to ends
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes
Equalizing
Application:
Apply glossing formula to freshly shampooed and
conditioned towel-dried hair
Processing Time:
Up to 25 minutes
Toning Service
This Toning Service is recommended to tone unwanted warmth
for highlighted or previously lightened hair. This deposit-only
formulation ensures maximum shine and condition on any
pre-lightened hair.
Mixing Ratio:
One part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus
two parts Activator 9 Volume (1:2)
Application:
Apply toning formula to freshly shampooed and conditioned hair
Processing Time:
5–25 Minutes
Demi-Permanent Blonde Toning
22
Toning Service
Shade Selections
Warm Blonde Toning
10G / 8C / 8G
Cool / Pastel Blonde Toning
10A / 10V / 9PV
Natural Blonde Toning
8GB / 9GB
Formulation:
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme + 1 oz. Developer
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Activator
Color Support Products
Kenra Color offers a range of Color Support products to
ensure simply stunning results. The Color Correcting System,
Porosity Equalizing Spray, and Stain Removing Wipes are
designed to be incorporated into any Permanent or
Demi-permanent color service.
Color Correcting System
Note: This service requires two separate formulations
(permanent and demi-permanent)
> Quickly removes oxidative pigments with a gentle
and safe formula
Application:
> Apply Permanent formula to new growth for 15 minutes
> Then apply Demi-permanent formula from
mid-length to ends
Processing time: 15-25 Minutes
> Does not disturb the natural pigments of the hair
> Two-part, non-bleach formulation mixes into an
easy-to-apply cream
> For use with or without heat
> Process can be repeated up to a total of three times
Gray
Blending
Formulations:
Natural Series: 1 oz. Combination of desired shade and
Natural Series + 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Natural Ash Series: 1 oz. Natural Ash Series +
1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply formula to dry hair
Processing time: 5-25 Minutes
Clear
Glossing
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Clear + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply to dry or towel-dried hair
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes
Toning
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme +
2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply toning formula to freshly shampooed
and conditioned hair
Processing time: 5-25 Minutes
> Color service can be performed immediately after
the color correcting process
Porosity Equalizing Spray
> Ensures even pigment absorption on hair with uneven
or high porosity
> Gentle, lightweight formula assists in conditioning
and detangling hair
> For use prior to Permanent or Demi-permanent color services
Application:
Spray in sections and comb through for even distribution.
For fine hair, select 1” sections. For medium hair, select
½” sections. For thick hair, select ¼” sections.
Stain Removing Wipes
> Gently removes unwanted color on the skin that may
occur during color services
> Formulated with Aloe Vera to be gentle for use on all skin types
Application:
Open the package and remove the wipe. Gently massage over the
stain on the skin to remove color. Follow with a damp cloth.
Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every
Demi-permanent Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain
the healthy condition of hair.
23
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How can I be sure I am formulating correctly
for my client?
Q: Why is the processing time longer for
white/gray hair?
A: Kenra Color ensures proper formulation for each individual
client with 5 easy steps.
Step 1: Determine the natural level of the client
A: The processing time is longer because gray hair can be
resistant and have a compact cuticle that may need a longer
processing time for the color to completely penetrate / saturate
to the cortex for 100% coverage.
Step 2: Determine the desired level / desired tone
Q: What is the Kenra Color Blonding Creme?
Step 3: Determine the volume of developer
Step 4: Determine the percentage of gray
Step 5: Identify the underlying pigment at the level you
are coloring to
Then, finalize your formulation. Write out your formula to
include the developer and processing time.
Q. What is the Balancing Complex 5?
A. Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5,
a proprietary blend of five essential attributes for haircolor
that is simply stunning:
> Vibrant, long-lasting color
Q: When creating permanent formulations for gray hair
is there any special formula / mixing guide to follow to
ensure 100% coverage of the gray hair?
A: Add the Natural Series into the formula at the level being colored
to ensure the proper coverage of the gray hair.
% of Gray
% of Natural Series
% of Desired Color
25%
25%
75%
50%
50%
50%
50–100%
75%
25%
> Intense shine
> Improved condition and manageability
> Gentle formulation
Q: How many levels of lift can you achieve with
Kenra Color High Lift?
> Outstanding coverage and color saturation
A: 4 to 5 levels of lift in a single process.
Q: Why does the Kenra Color Level System
not have a Level 2?
Q: What is the mixing ratio and the processing
time of Kenra Color High Lift?
A: Kenra Color does not observe level 2, as levels below
a three are difficult to differentiate to the human eye.
Darker levels generally do not reflect secondary
light reflections.
A: It is mixed 1:2 with Developer 30 or 40 Volume,
and it is processed for 45 minutes.
Q: In Kenra Color what does 6RB mean?
A: The best results occur on level 6 and above although it
can also be used on level 5 (warmer end result).
A: 6 identifies the level; R is the dominant color (Red);
B is the secondary color reflection (Brown).
24
Q: What are the recommended levels to use
Kenra Color High Lift on for coloring?
A: Blonding Creme provides extra lifting support with the same
specialized base as the High Lift Series. Blonding Creme may
be added into any Kenra Color Permanent formulation in addition
to the total color formulation, up to ¼ of the mixed color formula.
Use Blonding Creme to achieve ½–1 level additional lift. It is
colorless with no pigment or neutralization of underlying pigment.
It can be used for a natural highlighting effect when mixed 1:2
with Developers 10, 20, 30, or 40 Volume.
Q: What is the mixing ratio for the
Kenra Color Lightener?
A: Suggested Mixing Ratio:
1 Level Scoop: 1 part Developer (up to 1:3)
Q: What is the Kenra Color Correcting System?
Q: When mixing Kenra Color Blonding Creme
to achieve the extra ½ to 1 level of lift what is
the mixing ratio?
A: Kenra Color Correcting System gently, quickly, and safely
removes oxidative pigments without disturbing the hair’s natural
pigments. Its two-part, non-bleach formulation mixes readily into
an easy-to-apply cream and can be processed with or without
heat. The system can be used up to three times in a row to
remove undesired pigments. A color service can be performed
immediately following the removal process.
A: Mix one part Kenra Permanent Coloring Creme with one part
Kenra Color Permanent Coloring Creme Developer 10-40 Volume (1:1).
Add up to ¼ parts Blonding Creme of total 1:1 color mixture.
Q: When and / or why would I use Kenra Color
Demi-permanent?
Q: What are the Kenra Color Boosters designed to do?
A: They are designed to increase color vibrancy or give special
effects to any permanent color formulation. Specifically balanced
color dyes make it easy to create signature haircolor.
A: Kenra Color Demi-permanent can be used for:
> Color Enhancing
> Color Equalizing
> Gray Blending
> Clear Glossing
Q: How many levels of lift can you achieve
with the Kenra Color Lightener?
>Toning
A: Kenra Color Lightener is a dust-free powder lightener with
a lifting strength of up to 7 levels in a single application.
Q: Depending on the color you want to control or
enhance what are recommended shades to tone
with after using the Kenra Color Lightener?
Q: What volume developers can be used with the
Kenra Color Lightener?
A: Refer to chart below.
A: Developer choices and application:
Demi-Permanent Blonde Toning
Developer Choices
Application
Toning Service
Shade Selections
10 Volume (3%)
On or off the scalp
Warm Blonde Toning
10G / 8C / 8G
20 Volume (6%)
On or off the scalp
Cool / Pastel Blonde Toning
10A / 10V / 9PV
30 Volume (9%)
Off the scalp
Natural Blonde Toning
8GB / 9GB
25
Direct dyes: Color pigments that do
not require an oxidative agent (hydrogen
peroxide) to develop. Direct dye pigments
are typically larger and remain on the outer
portion of the hair shaft. They also have a
staining effect on the hair and can be
seen without the oxidative agent.
Double-process: This is a procedure or
technique requiring two separate processes,
one for lift and one for deposit.
Elasticity: The hair strand’s ability to
stretch and return to its normal shape
without breaking.
Glossary
Emulsify: To mix or blend together.
Eumelanin: A natural pigment found
predominantly in black and brown hair.
Acid / Acidity: Any matter with water of a
pH less than 7; with respect to hair it will
close / seal the cuticle.
Alkaline / alkalinity: Any matter
having water with a pH of more than 7;
in relation to hair it will open / swell
the cuticle.
Ammonia: A colorless gas containing
hydrogen and nitrogen. Ammonia is
a common alkaline material in color
used with peroxide to swell the cuticle
and encourage the development of
indirect pigments.
Ash: A cool tone in the blue, green,
or gray family used to neutralize
warm tones.
Ash blonde: A cool blonde with a blue or
green base.
Barrier creme: A product used to
help prevent color from staining on
the skin. Also used to protect hair
from unwanted processing during
a chemical service.
Breaking the base: To lighten hair
base color slightly. Breaking the base
is a technique to lighten the new growth
area of hair to diminish the appearance
of new growth areas, or as a means of
“freshening up” color of the hair.
Coarse: A term used to describe hair
texture. Coarse hair has three layers:
the medulla, the cortex, and the cuticle.
Usually the scales of the outside layer,
the cuticle, are closely overlapped and
raised away from the hair shaft. This is
why coarse hair readily absorbs water
and chemicals, such as haircolor.
Color: A visual impression caused by light.
26
Color wheel: The organization of
primary, secondary, and tertiary colors
in the order of their relationship to one
another. This is a tool commonly used
for formulating haircolor.
Complementary colors: Colors found
on opposite sides of the color wheel from
one another. They neutralize unwanted
tones in hair. An example would be a
blue-based color neutralizing unwanted
orange tones.
Condition: The state of the hair’s texture
(fine, medium, coarse) and porosity (low,
normal, high).
Cool: Green, blue, or violet tones, which
are also described as ash or beige.
Cortex: The center part of the hair that
makes up most of the hair shaft. The cortex
gives the hair its special qualities such
as elasticity and curl. It is packed with
strands of keratin that lie along the length
of the hair. Melanin is also found in the
cortex. Artificial or oxidative pigments
are developed / oxidized (transformed
into colored dye molecules) in the cortex
with permanent and demi-permanent
haircolor.
Curly: A term indicating the formation / fall
of the hair. The more curl the hair has the
less light it reflects. For example, curly hair
will absorb more light than straight hair,
making it appear darker, even though the
hair may be the exact same color.
Cuticle: The outside layer of the hair shaft
composed of transparent, overlapping,
protective scale-like cells. The cuticle
protects the inner structure of the hair.
A healthy, flat cuticle layer promotes
strength and shine. The cuticle must
be swelled to deposit or lift pigment.
Damaged Cuticle: Refers to porosity,
a severe lack of moisture and protein,
and loss of shine or elasticity. Damage
can be caused by chemical, thermal,
environmental, or medical influences
and can impact the ability of hair to
receive or lift pigment.
Decolorize: The removal process of the
hair’s natural pigment or the removal of
artificial pigments, oxidative and direct,
to help eliminate unwanted tones such
as ash or red.
Demineralize: The process of removing
mineral build up, such as chlorine, copper,
iron, etc., on the hair.
Demi-permanent color: Can be a
combination of direct and indirect pigments,
but must be mixed with oxidative agent
to encourage full oxidation of indirect
pigments. Deposit-only, no lift.
Density: The number of active hair follicles
per square inch on the scalp. It can influence
the look of color because it affects the way
light is reflected or absorbed.
Deposit: The addition of color, tone to
the hair.
Developer: An oxidizing agent that
creates a chemical reaction when
combined with indirect dyes or lighteners.
They are measured in percentages
from 2% to 12%, and also in volumes
from 5–40.
Dimension: A range of tones in hair.
Hair that is all one color is said to be
“flat,” one-dimensional, or lacking
dimension. Dimension can added
with highlights, lowlights, or various
other coloring techniques.
Fine: A specific type of hair texture.
Under a microscope fine hair may reveal
only two layers: the cuticle and the cortex.
Foiling: A technique used in coloring using
foil around specific strands / weaves / slices /
blocks of hair to be lightened or colored.
Lightener: Product that has the ability to
lift hair by diffusing, dissolving, and / or
decolorizing the hair’s natural pigment
or by removing artificial pigment.
Lightening: Process that lifts the natural
or artificial pigment in hair.
Line of demarcation: The specific and
noticeable line where new growth hair and
colored and / or lightened hair meet on
the hair shaft.
Lowlighting: The process of strategically
placing a darker level and tone on specific
strands of hair to achieve dimension and
depth in lighter hair.
Low / resistant porosity: Indicates a very
tight and compact cuticle, usually resistant
to chemical services.
Medulla: The innermost layer of the
hair that has no known effect or function
to the hair.
Melanin: Natural color pigment in hair
and skin.
Formulating: Act of creating a mixture of
two or more ingredients in a color formula.
Midshaft: Section of hair between new
growth and the ends of the hair strand.
Gray hair: Hair with diminishing amounts
of natural pigments (melanin). Gray hair
is the lightest form of the three
primary colors.
Molecule: Smallest part of a compound,
created by the chemical joining of
two atoms.
Hair color: This can refer to hair’s natural
level and tone, or to artificially created
haircolor.
High lift: Single-process haircolor with a
higher level of lightening capability and
minimal amount of color for deposit. It
allows for optimum lift in a single process.
Highlight: The process of adding small
sections of a lighter color to hair, making it
appear lighter overall.
Indirect dyes: Artificial pigments that
require an oxidative agent such as hydrogen
peroxide to develop. Indirect dyes are
generally smaller dye molecules than
direct dyes and are not visible on or in
the hair until after oxidation.
Length: The actual measurement of the
hair shaft from the scalp to the ends.
Level: Every color has a degree of lightness
or darkness, which is referred to as its level.
In haircolor, these levels of are measured on
a scale of 1 to 10; with 1 being the darkest
and 10 the lightest level.
Lift: The lightening ability of a haircolor or
decolorizer when applied to natural hair.
Natural hair color: The natural level and
tone of the hair before a chemical service
is performed.
Neutral: The pH of a neutral solution. For
example, one which is neither acidic nor
alkaline is 7.
Neutral color: Indicates equalized portions
of the three primary colors to produce a
color that is neither warm nor cool.
Neutralize: To counteract or make
ineffective. In color, it means to use a
warm or cool color to cancel out a cool
or warm color, respectively.
Non-oxidative: Direct dyes or non-oxidative
colors that don’t need to be mixed with any
developers. They are already fully developed
or pre-formed dye molecules, can be seen
immediately by the naked eye, and are
deposit only.
Non-progressive color: Color that
has a set processing time and will not
continue to deepen or darken the hair
with additional processing.
Normal condition: Indicates hair that has a
balanced amount of strength, protein,
and moisture.
Normal porosity: Also known as
average, good, or moderate porosity
and describes hair with normal ability to
absorb moisture. This type of hair is in
good condition, suitable for most
services, and colors easily.
Normal texture: A term used to
describe the most common hair texture.
The medulla, cortex, and cuticle layers
are present.
Opposite color: Colors found opposite
one another on the color wheel that when
combined will produce a neutral color,
such as dark gray or brown, depending
on the proportions used. Also called
complementary colors.
Overlapping: When the color formula being
applied overlaps the previously colored
or lightened hair during the application of
haircolor or lightening process.
Oxidation: The chemical reaction that
happens when the dye molecules or the
natural hair pigment comes in contact with
the hydrogen peroxide.
Pastel tones: Normally blue / violet
base color tones diluted with white to
help neutralize unwanted yellow tones
from blonde hair creating a more
translucent color effect.
Patch test: A test required by the
FDA, accomplished when a small
amount of haircolor formula is prepared
and applied to the skin, usually on the
inside of the elbow, to determine if
there will be an allergic reaction to
the chemical.
Permanent color: A type of haircolor
that must be mixed with an oxidative
agent and is capable of both lifting /
lightening natural pigment (melanin)
and depositing artificial pigments into
the hair in one process. Typically includes
small, colorless molecules that need to
be mixed with hydrogen peroxide to
develop. This type of color permanently
alters the hair shaft, and can be
a combination of direct and
indirect pigments.
Pheomelanin: A type of melanin with a
red / yellow pigment, which creates natural
red hair color.
pH Scale: A chemical scale that determines
whether a product is acid or alkaline. pH 7
is the mid point on the scale and is referred
to as neutral. From pH 6.9 to 0.1 the scale
measures acidity. From pH 7.1 to 14 the
scale measures alkalinity.
27
Pigment: The matter in hair that gives
it color.
Porosity: Hair’s ability to absorb and hold
moisture/liquids.
Pre-pigmentation: A process that can be
done when tinting back to ensure better
coverage / saturation of the color (direct /
intermediate dyes) by applying it without
peroxide or direct dyes (example tone and
shine) to give extra fill of pure color pigment
and ensure proper balance of color.
Stabilized: A term used for ingredients
that help prolong the life, appearance, and
performance of a product.
Pre-soften: A process performed on hair
that is un-pigmented / gray or resistant hair
to assist in better color saturation.
Strand test (preliminary): A test
given before a color service to determine
the processing time, the color end result,
and the hair’s ability to withstand the
specific chemicals to be used, as well
as to assess any stress to the hair
or scalp.
Primary colors: Colors that cannot be
created by mixing any other colors. When
mixed in varying proportions, primary colors
create all other colors.
Processing time: Refers to the required
amount of time for the color to properly
develop and perform the process accurately.
Progressive color: Indicates extra
processing time will make the hair
color darker.
Re-touch application: Process of applying
color to new growth area of hair at the scalp,
usually up to an inch away to color and / or
lighten the hair.
Root: The part of the hair that’s embedded
into the follicle.
Roots-to-ends application: The technique
of applying a color product from the roots
through to the ends, generally used during
a virgin darker application.
Secondary colors: When primary colors
are mixed in equal portions, they create
secondary colors. They are orange, green,
and violet. For example: Orange contains
equal portions of yellow and red; green
contains equal portions of yellow and blue;
and violet contains equal portions of red
and blue.
Section: A specific area of the head
generally referring to the nape, crown,
side, etc., that is isolated by parting.
Semi-permanent color: A type of haircolor
that uses direct dyes and requires no mixing
with an oxidative agent. The color pigments
are visible in the bottle or tube and usually
last up to several shampoos, depending on
the porosity of the hair. They can contain
both large and small color molecules. The
smaller molecules are able to penetrate the
cuticle layer of the hair and may even enter
the cortex.
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Single-process: An oxidative coloring
process that lifts and deposits in a single
application. Examples include permanent
coloring or a demi-permanent coloring such
as glazing, enhancing or toning.
Straight: Indicates the formation / fall of the
hair and is generally more reflective because
of its solid, smooth surface.
Swatches: Portions of hair strands that
are colored to help stylists / clients during
color consultations, and in developing the
formulations for service.
Temporary haircolor: A type of color
used to create a temporary change
usually lasting from shampoo to shampoo.
It uses non-reactive, direct dyes with
no chemicals needed to develop them.
It contains large color molecules that
will be “deposited” on the surface of
the hair. This creates a physical change,
not a chemical change, to the hair.
Temporary haircolor cannot lighten
the hair. It can neutralize unwanted
tones, add tone, or add pigment
to make the hair darker.
Tertiary colors: Colors made by
mixing a primary color with a coordinating
secondary color. The six tertiary colors
are yellow-orange, yellow-green,
blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet,
and red-orange.
Texture: Texture is the diameter of
the individual hair strand. Determining
hair texture by touching and visually
examining it indicates what the hair
can and cannot do on its own. The
three types of textures are coarse,
medium, and fine.
Tinting back: The process of returning
hair to its original or natural color, or
darkening at least three levels.
Tone: A term used to describe the
coolness or warmth of a color.
Toner: A type of color process used on
the hair after a pre-lightening service has
been preformed to enhance or neutralize
exposed underlying pigment.
Translucency: Action of light passing
through an object without a significant
amount of reflection.
Underlying pigment: Warm colors
exposed anytime hair color is lifted
two or more levels.
Virgin application: The process of
applying a chemical solution to hair
that has never had one.
Virgin hair: Natural hair that has not
received any prior chemical service.
Volume of developer: The concentration
of hydrogen peroxide in water solution.
This is expressed as volumes of developer
pertaining to the amount of oxygen.
Higher concentrations of oxygen
indicate more lightening action can
happen in the hair. Examples include
10 volume, 20 volume, 30 volume,
and 40 volume developers.
Warm: Tones ranging from yellow to red
to red-violet on the color wheel.
Weave: A foil highlighting technique
where slices are created, and selected
strands are woven out. Remaining
strands are then colored with a lightener
or a color and placed in foil or a similar
material. Weaving creates broken lines
creating the illusion of movement,
depth, and dimension.
k e n r a . c o m
Volume 3
Item #96006-1112