Knit Picks Mystery Colorwork
Pattern
Gauge = 8 sts & 9 rows per inch
Needles = Size 3 (3.25mm) 16” circular needle
Yarn = Knit Picks Palette, less than 10 grams each of 15 colors.
by Melissa Burt
for Knit Picks
Foreground Colors:
F1 = Eggplant
F2 = Marine Heather
F3 = Forest Heather
F4 = Brindle Heather
F5 = Garnet Heather
Setup:
With F1, cast on 121 sts, join to knit in the round.
Knit 1 round.
Round 2: k1 with B1, *k2 with F1, k1 with B1*, repeat around between *
Rounds 3-9: repeat as for round 2
Round 10: Purl with F1
Background Colors:
B1 = Fuchsia
B2 = Huckleberry Heather
B3 = Chicory
B4 = Blue
B5 = Tidepool Heather
B6 = Clover
B7 = Turmeric
B8 = Sweet Potato
B9 = Rose Hip
B10 = Serrano
Colorwork Chart - Week 1:
With F1 & B1, begin working the colorwork chart below, starting in the lower
right corner. Take note of the column of purl stitches on either end.
Row 5: Break off B1 and switch to B2 (continuing with F1).
▲
12
11
5
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
1
= Purl
Colorwork Tip: Yarn Dominance
When beginning a colorwork pattern, take note of which color is dominant; it will show more prominently in your knitting. In this pattern, the Foreground colors
should be dominant. This means that it should be the color that is stranded underneath the other color in the back. For those who knit colorwork with one color
in the left hand (picking) and one color in the right (throwing), the dominant color should be held in the left hand. I encourage those who use other methods of
holding the yarn to do an internet search for “yarn dominance”. There is a wealth of information out there! However you decide to do it, the most important thing
is that you remain consistent throughout the project. If you switch the position of your held yarn back and forth, it will show in the ﬁnished piece.
Week 2
Break F1 & B2, join F2 & B3 and work
the colorwork chart below until you
reach row 11.
Row 11: Break off B3 and switch to
B4 (continuing with F2).
11
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
▲
1
= Purl
Colorwork Tip: Seeing the forest amongst all the trees
In large colorwork patterns like this one it’s easy to lose your place, especially when you are looking at the chart in pieces like this. Make note of a few landmarks
in the pattern to help you ﬁnd your way. I like to use the columns of stitches in the middle of the chart as a reference point. Others like to use stitch markers every
20 rows or so (kind of like bread crumbs!). You might also want to cut out the previous week’s chart and tape it below this one, so you can reference the stitches
you’re building upon.
Week 3
Break F2 & B4, join F3 & B5 and work
the colorwork chart below until you
reach row 17.
Row 17: Break off B5 and switch to
B6 (continuing with F3).
17
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
1
▲
= Purl
Week 4
Break F3 & B6, join F4 & B7 and work
the colorwork chart below until you
reach row 23.
Row 23: Break off B7 and switch to
B8 (continuing with F4).
23
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
1
▲
= Purl
Week 5
Break F4 & B8, join F5 & B9 and
work the colorwork chart below until
you reach row 29.
Row 29: Switch to B10 (continuing
with F5) until you reach row 32.
Row 32: Break B10 and return to
knitting with B9 (continuing with F5)
32
29
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
1
▲
= Purl
Colorwork Tip: Carrying Colors
When you aren’t using a color for a few rows but will be returning to it very soon (like for B9 this week), you don’t have to break the yarn like you normally
would. Simply drop the color through the middle of the work for the few rows where you don’t need it, and pick it up again when you do. The center of the chart
in this project is the only good place to use this technique, but in some patterns this comes in handy a lot. The fact that we’ve returned to a color so soon means
that we’ve reached the center of the colorwork chart and will be mirroring what we did in the ﬁrst half. Congratulations!
Week 6
Break F5 & B9, join F4 & B8 and
work the colorwork chart below
until you reach row 38.
Row 38: Switch to B7 (continuing
with F4)
38
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
1
▲
= Purl
Week 7
Break F4 & B7, join F3 & B6 and
work the colorwork chart below
until you reach row 44.
Row 44: Switch to B5 (continuing
with F3)
44
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
1
▲
= Purl
Week 8
Break F3 & B5, join F2 & B4 and
work the colorwork chart below
until you reach row 50.
Row 50: Switch to B3 (continuing
with F2)
50
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
1
▲
= Purl
Week 9
Break F2 & B3, join F1 & B2 and
work the colorwork chart below
until you reach row 56.
Row 56: Switch to B1 (continuing
with F1)
When you’ve completed the chart, knit 1
round with F1, then purl 1 round with F1
56
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
=F
=B
1
▲
= Purl
Knit Picks Mystery Colorwork
Pattern
Gauge = 8 sts & 9 rows per inch
Needles = Size 3 (3.25mm) 16” circular needle
Yarn = Knit Picks Palette, less than 10 grams each of 15 colors.
by Melissa Burt
for Knit Picks
Setup:
With F1, cast on 121 sts, join to knit in the round.
Knit 1 round.
Round 2: k1 with B1, *k2 with F1, k1 with B1*, repeat around between *
Rounds 3-9: repeat as for round 2
Round 10: Purl with F1
Colorwork Chart - Side 1:
With F1 & B1, begin working the colorwork chart, starting in the lower right corner.
Take note of the column of purl stitches on either end.
Change colors as directed in the chart.
When you’ve completed the chart, knit 1 round with F1, then purl 1 round with F1.
Foreground Colors:
F1 = Eggplant
F2 = Marine Heather
F3 = Forest Heather
F4 = Autumn Heather
F5 = Garnet Heather
Background Colors:
B1 = Fuchsia
B2 = Huckleberry Heather
B3 = Chicory
B4 = Blue
B5 = Tidepool Heather
B6 = Edamame
B7 = Turmeric
B8 = Sweet Potato
B9 = Rose Hip
B10 = Serrano
Colorwork Chart - Side 2:
Knit 1 round with F1. Work the colorwork chart again, as before. When you’ve finished
with the chart, knit 1 round with F1, purl 1 round with F1, then work the same vertical
stripe pattern as you did at the very beginning (Rounds 2-9 above). Bind off.
Finishing: Stay Tuned!
Colorwork Tip: Yarn Dominance
When beginning a colorwork pattern, take note of which color is dominant; it will show more prominently in your knitting. In this pattern, the Foreground colors
should be dominant. This means that it should be the color that is stranded underneath the other color in the back. For those who knit colorwork with one color
in the left hand (picking) and one color in the right (throwing), the dominant color should be held in the left hand. I encourage those who use other methods of
holding the yarn to do an internet search for “yarn dominance”. There is a wealth of information out there! However you decide to do it, the most important thing
is that you remain consistent throughout the project. If you switch the position of your held yarn back and forth, it will show in the finished piece.
F1
B1
F1
B2
F2
B3
F2
B4
F3
B5
F3
B6
F4
B7
F4
B8
F5
B9
F5
B10
F5
B9
F4
B8
F4
B7
F3
B6
F3
B5
F2
B4
F2
B3
F1
B2
F1
B1
=F
=B
= Purl
F1
B1
F1
B2
F2
B3
F2
B4
F3
B5
F3
B6
F4
B7
F4
B8
F5
B9
F5
B10
F5
B9
F4
B8
F4
B7
F3
B6
F3
B5
F2
B4
F2
B3
F1
B2
F1
B1
=F
=B
= Purl
Mystery Knitalong: Finishing Directions, part 1
Notions needed:
• 24” circular needle 1 size smaller than what you used to knit with
• Sharp-tipped scissors for steeking
• 1/2 yard of fabric for lining & pockets
(or 2 fat quarters*, if you want the pockets a different color)
• 1 fat quarter* of fusible lightweight interfacing
• 1 30” zipper OR snap tape OR velcro
• Iron
• Sewing machine (optional if you want to hand-sew)
• Cutting and pinning tools of your choice
* Please Note: If your fabric store will not allow fat quarter cuts, you must get a 1/2 yard.
Steeking
You will be cutting between the first and
last stitch of the round. Reinforce the steek
according to the steeking tutorial (optional). Cut
the steek, and unfold the piece.
Wash and block gently.
Steek Edges
With your smaller needle and F1 begin picking
up & knitting stitches starting at the left edge
of one side. You should insert the needle in
the purl column. Pick up 3 stitches for every 4
rows.
Zipper Option (my version):
Knit across your picked up stitches.
Turn work and purl 1 row.
Turn and knit 1 row.
Row 4 (WS): Bind off in knit stitch.
Repeat the above directions for the other
steeked edge.
Non-Zipper Option:
Knit across your picked up stitches.
Turn work and bind off in knit stitch.
Repeat the above directions for the other
steeked edge.
Prepare for Sewing
With your iron on the wool setting, gently press
the knitted fabric, so that the steeks lay out and
the picked up stitched fold in.
Measure the pressed knitted fabric. Cut a
piece of lining fabric and a piece of interfacing
to this width and two inches shorter than the
height. (My measurement was 15” wide by 14”
tall.) Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the
lining fabric.
Now it’s time to figure out where you want the
pockets! Lay the lining over the knitted piece
and play around with the objects you want to
keep in the case.
There are many possibilities--needle tip case,
kids’ activity case, diaper satchel, toiletry kit.
Sketch out where you want your pockets and
what size, and we’ll sew them on in part 2.
Mystery Knitalong: Finishing Directions, part 2
Sewing the pockets
For the purposes of this tutorial, I will give
directions for the pockets I put in, but please do
whatever suits the purpose of your project.
I decided that mine will be a “traffic case” and
hold things to keep on hand in the car for when we
get stuck in traffic. I plan to put some wipes, baby
snacks, a pack of cards, and a small book inside.
With your pocket fabric, cut 2 pieces that
measure 15” wide by 10” high. Fold them in half
lengthwise, and press. This will give you a nice
lined pocket with a clean edge.
With the raw edges lined up with the edges of
your lining fabric, sew the pockets on with a
1/4” seam. Continue top stitching a 1/4” seam
on the space where there is no pocket.
Measure the intended objects for the case, and
mark vertical lines to divide the pockets. Sew
these lines, backstitching at each end.
Sew the lining to the knitted fabric
With right sides together, pin the lining to the
steek edges of the knitted fabric (center the
lining vertically between the striped knitting
at the top and bottom). Make sure the steek
reinforcement stitches are on the outside of the
top-stitched line.
Sew the lining to the knitted fabric on the topstitched line. Be sure to pull any ends to the
right, so that they don’t get caught in the seam,
and make sure that you don’t accidentally
stretch the knitting as you sew.
Trim the knitted fabric ends, so that you have
a clean edge. Turn the case right side out and
press. Pin the lining to the outside on either
side of the fold line (along the purl row between
the two colorwork repeats). With the knit side
up, sew down this fold line to secure the lining
in the middle. (If your F1 color is very different
from the lining fabric, you should use a different
bobbin color.)
Sewing the striped edges
Fold the striped edges of the knitted fabric up
over the raw edge of the lining and press. Pin
into place and sew it to the lining by hand on
both sides. Make sure you tuck the raw steeked
corner neatly under the striped edge.
If you are not installing a zipper, you are done!
Zipper Option:
Adding zipper edging
With the outside of the case facing you, pick up
the stitches across the top edge (you can place
the purl bumps directly on the needle).
Row 1: Knit across to one stitch before the end,
*slip stitch to right needle, pick up 1 st from
folded band edge, put slipped stitch back on left
needle, k2tog.* Turn.
Row 2: Purl across to one stitch before the end.
Repeat between * above.
Row 3: As row 1.
Row 4: Bind off in knit until one stitch before
end, repeat between * and bind off.
Repeat these steps for the other edge. Use
any ends to sew the folded bit of edging in the
corners in place. You now have a 4 row edge
of stockinette with curved corners to sew the
zipper onto.
Sew on the zipper
With a seam ripper, carefully open up the seam
that attaches the lining to the knitting at the fold
line on one side, just enough to insert the end
of your zipper (centered on the fold line). Pin.
Top stitch the zipper and lining in place.
On one side, pin the knitted edging to the
zipper edging, curving the knitting around
gently. (I only pinned the very start because I
found pinning the whole thing too cumbersome.
Pin as much as what makes you feel
comfortable.)
Snap Option:
If you are not installing a zipper and wish to
install snaps on the striped edge, you should
do so before sewing the edges down.
Begin sewing the zipper to the edging using
a large stitch. Be sure to ease in the knitted
fabric as you sew, so that it doesn’t become
stretched. If it stretches, your zipper will be too
short at the end and will look all wavy (ask me
how I know!). When you get to the corner, just
pull the knitted edging a bit to curve the zipper
around.
When you’re done with that side of the zipper,
go back to the beginning and pin in place for
the other side. Be sure to line up the two sides
of knitting so that the zipper is not skewed
(use the bands of color as your guide). Pin the
zipper in place. Open the zipper up and begin
sewing, as you did before.
Trim the ends of the zipper and tack them down
(if necessary). Congratulations, you now have a
brilliant custom case that opens on three sides!
Mystery Knitalong: Steeking Tutorial
The time has come for us to embrace the power of the steek. Do not be afraid! Steeks are a
wonderful, magical part of colorwork knitting. There are many different ways to reinforce a steek,
depending on what yarn you knit with. Palette is a sticky enough wool that it actually doesn’t need
any reinforcement, but reinforcing it gives an extra layer of security, so I tend to do it. My preferred
reinforcing method is the Crochet Reinforcement, so that is what I am showing in this tutorial.
Disclaimer #1: Those of you who are learning to steek on this project in preparation for steeking your
Classic Lines Cardigans may wish to use the sewn reinforcement method explaned in detail in that
pattern. I have done both methods, so I can walk you through either one.
Disclaimer #2: Do as I say not as I do! After I cut my steek, I realized that I had reinforced it in
the wrong spot. Thus, my photos show the reinforcement half a stitch over from where it should be.
Since I couldn’t re-cut the steek, I couldn’t re-take the photos. Please read the text carefully for steek
placement. If you want to read more about why mine is in the wrong spot, see the last page.
Step 1
Using a small crochet hook at the bottom edge,
insert the hook into the right leg of the 2nd stitch
in the round and the left leg of the 1st stitch in the
round. The first time you do this, both legs will be
F1 (purple) because that is your cast on color.
Step 2
Grab your reinforcing yarn with the hook and pull
it through. I like to use a reinforcing yarn that is
good contrast to my working yarn (light gray in this
case). Don’t worry, this won’t show in the finished
piece.
You now have a loop on your hook with the
working yarn going under the stitch legs. Bring the
working yarn up around the hook and pull another
loop through (as if making a crochet chain).
Step 3
Insert the hook under the stitch legs in the next
row up. Ignore the photo, your legs should be
F1 (purple) on the left and B1 (pink) on the
right.
Wrap your yarn around and pull a loop through the
two legs and the loop on your hook. You now have
one loop on the hook again and two rows have
been reinforced.
Step 4
Continue this process all the way up the project.
Your chain will be 1/2 a stitch over from where
it is in my photos.
Step 5
Turn the work around and repeat Steps 1-4
for the right side of the steek. This time, your
reinforcement line will be the right leg of the 2nd
to last stitch in the round and the left leg of the last
stitch in the round. There will be a dark column
in the middle surrounded by half a light stitch on
either side within the reinforcement lines (1/2
stitch wider on each side than shown).
Step 6
Turn the work inside out and trim up the loose
ends to about 1” in length. Pull them to either side
of the steek line, so they’re out of the way. Turn
work right side out again. (Skip this step if you
wove in your ends.)
Step 7
Grab your trusty pair of
pointy-tipped wickedsharp scissors. If you
don’t have a pair of
scissors like this, go out
and buy a pair. Trust me.
You will be cutting the
horizontal bar between
the very middle stitch of
the reinforcement.
Step 8
Very carefully cut the steek, pulling apart the stitch
with your other hand as you go, so that you only
cut the horizontal bar of the stitch (and the float
beneath that), not the legs of the stitch. (I needed
my other hand to take the photo, but normally I’d
be using it to widen the stitch, so I can see what
I’m cutting.
All done! See, that wasn’t so bad. Now you have a
nice, secure edge and a big square of knitting!
Lesson Learned!
The reason why I said I put my reinforcement
in the wrong spot is because I didn’t catch the
background floats in my reinforcement. This
gives me a good opportunity to prove to you how
how little Palette unravels. Here’s what my edge
looked like as I was picking up stitches (next step
of pattern) and how far a few of the background
stitches raveled--only one stitch!
Mystery Knitalong: Steeking Tutorial
The time has come for us to embrace the power of the steek. Do not be afraid! Steeks are a
wonderful, magical part of colorwork knitting. There are many different ways to reinforce a steek,
depending on what yarn you knit with. Palette is a sticky enough wool that it actually doesn’t need
any reinforcement, but reinforcing it gives an extra layer of security, so I tend to do it. My preferred
reinforcing method is the Crochet Reinforcement, so that is what I am showing in this tutorial.
Disclaimer #1: Those of you who are learning to steek on this project in preparation for steeking your
Classic Lines Cardigans may wish to use the sewn reinforcement method explaned in detail in that
pattern. I have done both methods, so I can walk you through either one.
Disclaimer #2: Do as I say not as I do! After I cut my steek, I realized that I had reinforced it in
the wrong spot. Thus, my photos show the reinforcement half a stitch over from where it should be.
Since I couldn’t re-cut the steek, I couldn’t re-take the photos. Please read the text carefully for steek
placement. If you want to read more about why mine is in the wrong spot, see the last page.
Step 1
Using a small crochet hook at the bottom edge,
insert the hook into the left leg of the 2nd to last
stitch in the round and the right leg of the last
stitch in the round. The first time you do this, both
legs will be F1 (purple) because that is your cast
on color.
Step 2
Grab your reinforcing yarn with the hook and pull
it through. I like to use a reinforcing yarn that is
good contrast to my working yarn (light gray in this
case). Don’t worry, this won’t show in the finished
piece.
You now have a loop on your hook with the
working yarn going under the stitch legs. Bring the
working yarn up around the hook and pull another
loop through (as if making a crochet chain).
Step 3
Insert the hook under the stitch legs in the next
row up. Ignore the photo, your legs should be
F1 (purple) on the right and B1 (pink) on the
left.
Wrap your yarn around and pull a loop through the
two legs and the loop on your hook. You now have
one loop on the hook again and two rows have
been reinforced.
Step 4
Continue this process all the way up the project.
Your chain will be 1/2 a stitch over from where
it is in my photos.
Step 5
Turn the work around and repeat Steps 1-4 for the
left side of the steek. This time, your reinforcement
line will be the right leg of the 2nd stitch in the
round and the left leg of the 1st stitch in the
round. There will be a dark column in the middle
surrounded by half a light stitch on either side
within the reinforcement lines (1/2 stitch wider on
each side than shown).
Step 6
Turn the work inside out and trim up the loose
ends to about 1” in length. Pull them to either side
of the steek line, so they’re out of the way. Turn
work right side out again. (Skip this step if you
wove in your ends.)
Step 7
Grab your trusty pair of
pointy-tipped wickedsharp scissors. If you
don’t have a pair of
scissors like this, go out
and buy a pair. Trust me.
You will be cutting the
horizontal bar between
the very middle stitch of
the reinforcement.
Step 8
Very carefully cut the steek, pulling apart the stitch
with your other hand as you go, so that you only
cut the horizontal bar of the stitch (and the float
beneath that), not the legs of the stitch. (I needed
my other hand to take the photo, but normally I’d
be using it to widen the stitch, so I can see what
I’m cutting.
All done! See, that wasn’t so bad. Now you have a
nice, secure edge and a big square of knitting!
Lesson Learned!
The reason why I said I put my reinforcement
in the wrong spot is because I didn’t catch the
background floats in my reinforcement. This
gives me a good opportunity to prove to you how
how little Palette unravels. Here’s what my edge
looked like as I was picking up stitches (next step
of pattern) and how far a few of the background
stitches raveled--only one stitch!