KNIT-LINE Knitwear. Open width concepts.
KNIT-LINE Knitwear. Open width concepts. KNIT-LINE Advantages of open width treatment of knitted fabric Benninger the leading manufacturer of roller vat washing machines is also your best partner for the open width treatment of knits and high elastic fabrics with synthetic fibres. The heart of open width treatment is the TRIKOFLEX system. It has set new standards in textile finishing for its low tension treatment with maximum washing efficiency. Beside the TRIKOFLEX, Benninger can deliver the entire program for the open width treatment of knitted fabric. Reaction stores, pre-treatment steamers and under liquor stores can be combined with the TRIKOFLEX according to process requirements. A high degree of flexibility, quality problems and high water and energy consumption are the main reasons to switch the treatment of knitted goods to open width form. Typical rubbing and abrasion defects from JET processing The advantages of the open width treatment of knitwear at a glance ■ No crease marks from rope treatment ■ Less hairiness and a smoother fabric surface (no micro-pilling or pilling) ■ No enzyme treatment necessary ■ 15–30% less variable costs for processing ■ No fabric losses due to slitting defects when cutting wet fabric ■ Halving water and steam consumption ■ No rubbing or abrasion defects ■ Shrinking of man-made fibres can be easily controlled with high reproducibility ■ CPB dyeing with reactive dyestuffs possible 2 BEN-WASH TRIKOFLEX – Maximum washing efficiency at lowest tension No curling selvedge due to ■ The use of scroll rollers and selvedge decurlers ■ Minimal distances between the fabric guiding elements Minimal fabric tension and lengthening ■ Due to the water load, the fabric in creases its weight threefold, therefore free hanging fabric must be avoided. ■ Wave water is spray water which causes water sacks to form when landing on a horizontally or diagonally guided fabric run. The TRIKOFLEX washing machine has not only larger immerse rollers that minimise the distance to the grooved drum, but handing over of the fabric under the liquor surface has also been realised. This allows the wave water to be used to increase the washing effect without lengthening the fabric. ■ TRIKOFLEX washing compartments are fitted with the most up-to-date AC drives. Not only are the intermediate squeezing units frequency controlled, but all the grooved drums are also driven by AC motors. As an optional extra, the immerse rollers can be fitted with support drives. Swivelling compensator rollers control the intermediate and main squeezing units as well as the second grooved drum. Ratio control allows differential speeds between the grooved drums. Excellent accessibility Thanks to the compact design, the washing compartments are only 140 cm high and are easily accessible which makes service and handling extremely easy. 3 BEN-WASH Grooved drum Drawing of the active washing principle with grooved drum 1 Closed drum body 2 Groove profile 3 Mesh belt 4 Fabric 5 Outer liquor film 6 Spray pipe The heart of the TRIKOFLEX washing system is the grooved drum with a combination of grooved profile and mesh covering. It serves as a supporting element for the fabric. The large surface of the drum ensures smooth and low tension fabric passage over a long contact path. The enclosed design prevents impurities from entering the drum. The result: The washing liquor penetrates the fabric and forms a liquor film on the front and back side. In this way, impurities on both sides are quickly removed. At the same time a cleaning effect within the mesh is created. The washing effect, compared to standard mesh and screen drum systems, is considerably increased. Further features: ■ Minimum deflection points ■ Short fabric path in the area of the drum, trough and compensating roll ■ Large roll diameter ■ Low tension fabric transport through controlled single motor drives Spray pipes are arranged around the grooved drum and integrated into the circulating system. These ensure the extremely high washing efficiency at great circulating capacities. The drum surface forms the groove profile with a mesh covering. As the fabric passes through the spray section, it is supported by the drum surface and is thus unable to avoid the hydrodynamic water pressure. 4 Spray battery The spray battery with adjustable spray angle is decisive for the optimum washing effect in addition to the grooved drum. The washing liquor is constantly circulated through the spray pipes within the compartment by means of a pump. This pro-duces a cross-flow and a heavyflowing liquor film on both sides of the fabric. This ensures optimum mass transfer and removal of the substances being washed off. The variety of compartments allows you flexibility TRIKOFLEX LT-S with intermediate squeezer TRIKOFLEX LT-DS with intermediate squeezer TRIKOFLEX LT-V combined retention and washing compartment TRIKOFLEX LT-V combined retention and washing compartment with impregnation High washing performance Washing efficiency has been tremendously increased by creating a multiple chamber system with two liquor circulations and three concentration levels with counter-flow. The advantages at a glance ■ Universal washing compartments for knitted and woven pile fabrics ■ Optimal shrinkage results ensured by low tension fabric guidance and short fabric runs ■ Variable drive techniques ■ Controllable expander settings with the possibility of fabric specific adjustments ■ Optimal structure and volume development due to variable re-circulating capacities 5 BEN-WASH TRIKOFLEX LT-V – Retention and relaxation The advantages at a glance ■ Combined retention and washing compartment ■ Critical fabrics, e.g. POT (Partial Orientated Fibres), can also be tight strand guided through the dwelling compartment ■ Flexible dwelling times in the range of 0.5–4 min ■ Separated liquor circulations between retention and washing section ■ Counter-flow system ■ Relaxation of the fabric due to tension free plaiting 6 Flexibility in the concept Combined retention and washing compartment Reaction compartments are needed for temperature and time-depending wash and retention processes such as, demineralization, reductive cleaning, oxidation, neutralization or fastness washing. Benninger has developed the combined retention and washing compartment TRIKOFLEX LT-V. The fabric is rinsed via spray lines on to the roller bed. Depending on the process requirement the fabric is under a constant spray of water and chemical liquor. Subsequent to the predetermined reaction time, the fabric is expanded and guided over a short distance to the TRIKOFLEX washing drum for direct rinsing or washing. The TRIKOFLEX LT-V compartment can be selected with one or two liquor circulations. For reaction processes the entry section can be equipped with an impregnation trough and intermediate squeezer. Swivelling compensator and spiral expander in front of the squeezing unit Decurler in front of the squeezing unit 7 Spiral expander with delivery plate to squeezing unit BEN-BLEACH REACTA – Modular steamer and retention accumulator Demineralization Washing Impregnation Steaming 8 Washin Crease free operation is a matter of course Crucially important to any continuous pretreatment range is the steamer. Here especially therefore, economy and flexibility must be combined in optimum fashion. The building block system devised by Benninger enables a steamer ideally suited to industrial requirements to be assembled for any duty from proven basic modules. Alternatively used as a steamer, or retention accumulator for soaping, with spray water circulation and saturated steam atmosphere. Fabric inlet The cloth is let into the steamer through a steam lock, guided over big drive rollers and brought at once to the reaction temperature. Steamer draw-off section While still in the steamer, the fabric is drawn off over a short distance to the appropriate guiding elements, expanded and centred fed into the steamer outlet with water lock to secure steam tightness. Both countercurrent and high temperature generate the high washing effect. Liquor separation is created by the pulling device at the exit. Chemical metering station The chemical station consists, for each chemical, of feed pump, inductive flowmeter and control valve. This means that the reproducibility of the chemical metering figures is ensured. Metering of the chemicals in ml/kg based on the fabric throughput means that a defined quantity is added. The impregnation system is self controlling. If more water is brought in with the fabric then the addition of water – controlled on level – is reduced. The following is entered at the display: ■ Fabric weight per running meter ■ Initial filling (in liters according to total volume) ■ Top-up recipe (in ml/kg) g Neutralization Washing 9 BEN-DIMENSA DIMENSA – Technology successful in the knitted sector The DIMENSA technology is predestinated for the treatment of knitted goods. The DIMENSA masters the special structure, the load and tension instability of knitted fabrics brilliantly. The DIMENSA is completed with the TRIKOFLEX drum washing machine. Knitted goods – even single jersey – are run on the DIMENSA opened, without gumming the selvedges. The combination of chain and chainless makes the difference The influence on the stitch and wale counts can be attributed to the unique combination of the chainless and chain principles. Precisely defined fabric tension is ensured through all stages of the process by the ratio metered AC drive. The stabilizing process is initiated by the stenter section. Correction of the stitches over the entire width takes place by constant stretching. Simultaneously the lye concentration is reduced. Complete neutralization takes place in the TRIKOFLEX washing compartments. Dimensions known before processing is finished The results after mercerizing on the DIMENSA are, with regard to the dimensions, representative of the final product. Deviations from the nominal figures can be corrected immediately in the stenter frame. ■ Constant number of wale counts ■ No stitch differences over the width and length ■ Elongation to +15%, shrinkage to –10% can be compensated Uniform number of wales across the whole width Stitch thickening in the selvedge zones can cause dark selvedges which, in turn, lead to quality loss and even rejects. On the DIMENSA this condition is practically non-existent: ■ Because the lye in the selvedges is extracted methodically ■ Because the fabric is positively guided throughout the stabilizing zone That is why there is no shrinkage in the stabilizing compartment and no thickening of the wales in the selvedge zones. 10 The versatility of the DIMENSA permits every textile result concerning the mercerizing effect. This is achieved by objective selection of the process parameters such as: ■ Lye temperature ■ Lye concentration ■ Lye reaction time ■ Fabric lengthwise and crosswise tension The thus optimized process provides the best mercerizing effect with savings in lye, water and steam. DIMENSA – or enhanced fabric appearance and quality Relative swelling Iodine Sorption mg/g Optimum cold hot Grey fabric Time (sec) Relative swelling of cotton vs. temperature ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ Faster caustic soda penetration, speedier swelling High swelling uniformity, no ring mercerizing Better dye penetration Smoother cloth appearance Softer handle Comparison hot-cold mercerization ■ ■ ■ ■ Shorter impregnation times No cooling needed for mercerizing Maximum squeezing action at infeed squeeze Lower investment cost through shorter impregnation sections The mercerization process results in high quality knit goods characterised by increased dimensional stability and luster. Furthermore, colour intensification of up to 50% can be achieved. The resulting dyestuff savings can be between 30–40%. These factors make the DIMENSA mercer-izing process economically and ecologically viable. Mercerizing processes that partially or totally allow free shrinkage in the dwelling and stabilizing zones also lead to improved dyeing characteristics. However, they do not exploit the full potential with regards to dimensional stability. 11 Investigations by Bechter reveal that with an impregnation concentration of 28–30°Bé‚ or 250–300 g NaOH 100% per litre (215–240 g NaOH 100% per kg) there is no significant increase of iodine sorption or dyestuff uptake. This means optimal mercerization is accomplished with a concentration of 220–240 g NaOH 100% per kg cloth on the fabric. BEN-DIMENSA DIMENSA – Mercerizing range for knit goods The impregnation zone of the DIMENSA for knit goods consists of an impregnation trough. Utilising mercerization agents for grey fabric is essential due to the short impregnation zone. A plate expander in front of the squeezer uncurls the selvedges. This facilitates an even squeezing effect, to the outermost edges, which removes the impregnation liquor to the correct mercerization concentration of 220–240 g of caustic soda per kg fabric. Strong shrinkage across the width due to the fabric distances is of no consequence at this stage, but is in actual fact part of the procedural concept. The mercerization process is completed in the subsequent dwelling zone. An integrated stenter section stretches the stitches across the width, which compensates the shrinkage in the impregnation zone. In the parallel field, the set fabric dimensions are stabilised by spraying on hot weak lye. In order to achieve the best possible dimensional stability and minimise residual shrinkage, the machine is usually run with overfeed when processing knitwear. The stretching field also offers the unique opportunity to Impregnation Chainless principle correct thickenings at the edges. Edge thickening changes the appearance of the stitch structure and causes variations in colour (usually lighter). Benninger has developed a special edge stretching section control unit which is placed on the tensioning chain. Any thickening which arises at the edges is corrected and then memorized by spraying on diluted caustic soda. This particularly affects articles with a high level of lateral elasticity, such as Ripp and Interlook articles, but also articles containing a mixture of Elastan. Dwelling The subsequent stabilizing compartment reduces the caustic soda to a degree that enables fabric plaiting without further consequences. The TRIKOFLEX drum washing compartments, which can be either attached in continuation or operated separately, round off the complete concept of low tension treatment of knit goods. Stabilizing Chain principle 12 Chainless principle Küsters DyePad Versatility of the Küsters S-Roll Owing to its design and construction, Küsters high efficiency padders meet all practical requirements for application in modern processing. Different feeding systems, squeezing roll coverings, trough shapes as well as expanders and spreaders allow a variety of woven and knitted goods to be treated. A uniform liquor application over the fabric width, as well as a selective liquor application to the selvedge – center – selvedge zone can be easily set, reproduced and program controlled if required. This may become necessary owing to varying absorption capacity, fabric tension, weft distortion and humidity (at the beginning of the process) as well as faults arising in subsequent processes, like dyestuff migration at the selvedges during drying. System benefits The right concept for every kind of fabric by appropriate roll coverings, trough design, as well as expanding and spreading devices ■ Uniform linear liquor application by two deflection-controlled rolls throughout the entire batch ■ If requested, varied liquors or chemicals can be applied over the length and width of the batch and also programmed via the PLC, by an adjustable squeezing effect with one deflection compensating roll ■ Reproducibility of all dyestuff and chemical applications ■ No cambering of the squeeze rollers ■ Uniform squeezing pressure within the fabric area including thick and narrow webs (without selvedge pressure) ■ No side-to-center shading, due to smooth treatment of the selveges ■ Simple operation and control due to clear design ■ 13 Advantages ■ Low energy consumption ■ Short return on investment ■ Completely reliable and maintenancefree ■ Reduction of setting-up-time through an automatic quick cleaning system Correction diagram Internal roller pressure (bar) The Küsters DyePad station with its flexible S-Roll Technology can dye woven and knitted goods, in reproducible and premium quality. Moreover the Küsters DyePad offers great flexibility due to the correction potential of the two S-Rollers. This means an attractively priced, simple to operate, reliable and economical Padder station able for diverse handling. Shaft pressure (bar) New deflection range Conventional deflection range New Küsters S-Roll with double correction potential ■ Greater flexibility for the dye producer ■ Enhanced reproducibility with electronic pressure control Küsters DyePad Küsters S-Roll Technology Insight of the S-Roll The S-Roll as the heart of the overall system enables accurate reproducible results due to its user defined capabilities, to define pressure application possibilities to the two S-Rolls. By means of an intelligent software support system, a uniform dyestuff application is guaranteed, this means versatile requirements in relation to quality and material can be achieved. Sealing concept of the S-Roll The deflection-controlled roll for constant results Küsters Padders are equipped with the well-known “Swimming Roll” (S-Roll) Küsters Technology. With controlled linear pressure the deflection-controlled rolls achieve a specific squeezing nip for every fabric. Linear pressure between two S-Rolls absolutely even across the full width Pressure increased at center of rolls Pressure reduced at center of rolls Pressure raised on one side of the rolls Technical data 222.12 222.18 Number of S-Rolls 2 2 Working width (mm) 1600 – 2600 2400 – 3600 Diameter of S-Rolls (mm) 220 300 Max. linear pressure (N/mm) 15 – 50 12 – 50 14 Küsters DyePad Trough or nip dyeing Modular design and construction enables all practical requirements for application in modern processing. All concepts are aligned to supply economically and technologically, the best possible solution for our customers. The determining parameters when padding knit goods are ■ Dye liquor temperature ■ Pressure line of the padder (correction left, centre, right) ■ Fabric absorbency ■ Fabric tension While the first three points pose no new problems for knits in comparison to woven, the issue of “fabric tension” must be approached with care. Differences in the fabric tension can lead to dye deviations of up to 30%. This is the reason why the Küsters DyePad for knits defines an accurate and constant fabric transport, all the way from the infeed where the fabric is guided over a segment roller right up to batching. diameter increases, thereby safeguarding constant winding conditions. A special displacement element permits low liquor contents and accordingly fast liquor exchange. Furthermore the low liquor content minimises the dyestuff loss when changing the dye bath. For specific applications the fabric can be guided through a horizontal nip. A constant fabric tension is therefore maintained during the entire treatment process, from dye application to squeezing procedure. Low tension batching takes place via transferring rollers after controlled squeezing of the knit goods. The batching trolley is moved pneumatically along the movable platform as roll 15 Küsters DyePad Contidos SF dosing station Dissolving station Dye preparation Contidos SF 3 Chemicals Overview Contidos SF dosing station Dye padder The Contidos SF dosing station guarantees accurate reproduction at a premium quality as well as consistent process management. The system efficiently controls the entire dyeing process through automatic monitoring and online dosing. Modern concept for Cold Pad Batch (CPB) reactive dyeing The complexities of the textile challenges, require custom-made concepts and innovative detailed solutions, regarding construction and procedure. Mastering the CPB reactive dyeing process goes way beyond the flexing compensation of the rollers and their correction possibilities. The target of the dye producer is to have an accurately reproducible process management. This is accomplished by temperature management and innovative dosing concepts. Single component dosing unit Temperature management Season and geographically independent, constant and reproducible application and batching temperature. 16 Dosing to measure Online dosing for CPB dyeing with padder ■ Production of dye liquor on the basis of dye solution and auxiliaries dispensed separately ■ Dye solution and auxiliaries are blended homogeneously in a mixer and fed into the padder ■ Dosing of each individual component according to a formula in ml per liter of dye liquor ■ Metering of liquor pick-up ■ Record of consumption ■ Automatic operation mode ■ High accuracy in dye liquor production, with automatic control of dosing tolerances ■ Simple and rapid color changes ■ Small loss of dye liquor and short rinsing-times in the case of color changes ■ No preparation of auxiliary baths ■ Dosing capacity according to a recipe and production capacity ■ PLC control with operator terminal ■ Link to process control system ■ Dissolving and preparation unit available ■ KNIT-LINE STARTER KIT – Starter concept to open width treatment of knit goods The STARTER KIT makes it possible to begin the gradual change from the tubular to open width treatment of knit goods. Included primarily in the “Starter package” are a DyePad and a small TRIKOFLEX washing installation. The TRIKOFLEX takes care of the prewash and the washing after CPB bleaching and reactive dyeing. A cost efficient concept, designed for production of 3–5 tons per day. The process flow and open width treatment result in high reproducibility and low steam, water and energy consumption. In addition, quality is increased since rope creases, hairiness, and pilling or micro-pilling are avoided. Pre-washing allows trouble-free thermosetting of delicate articles with a high Elastane content. There is no danger of crease fixation during thermosetting. At the same time, smoke emissions do not pollute the environment. The following table shows the STARTER KIT process of open width treatment of knit goods containing Elastane. Open width treatment STARTER KIT Rope process route Hose cutting Hose cutting CPB cold bleaching Thermo-setting Washing of cold bleaching TRIKOFLEX Sewing together Stenter drying and thermosetting Bleaching in JET CPB dyeing Dyeing in JET Washing after CPB Hose opening/cutting Drying on stenter Drying on stenter 17 KNIT-LINE KNIT-LINE machine concepts BEN-WASH Post-treatment of vat and reactive dyed or printed fabrics BEN-BLEACH Continue Pre-treatment with demineralization and bleaching BEN-WASH Post-treatment of reactive dyed or printed fabrics BEN-DIMENSA MS-2 Combination of chainless system and stenter frame 18 Benninger can now satisfy the ever changing demands for flexibility of the fashion industry and of quality conscious customers by being able to offer suitable machinery for the open width processing of knitted fabrics which ensures highest quality. In addition it must be mentioned that apart from the improved quality, open width finishing, as opposed to the classical rope form treatment by exhaust methods, also promises lower variable production costs up to 30%. The engagement of Benninger in relation to knitted goods will generate in long terms new standards for quality oriented textile companies and will make them competitive. 19 Locations Head office Uzwil, Switzerland Subsidiaries Mumbai, India Shanghai, China Zell, Germany Zittau, Germany Representative office Moscow, Russia The Swiss company Benninger has been the textile industrys leading partner across the globe for one hundred and fifty years with global branches and service representatives. Benninger develops and manufactures textile finishing and cord production ranges as well as providing complete system solutions. As the market leader Benninger will continue to rely on its comprehensive process know-how in order to be able to offer high-quality installations with excellent customer service. Benninger AG 9240 Uzwil, Switzerland T +41 71 955 85 85 F +41 71 955 87 47 [email protected] Benninger Zell GmbH Schopfheimerstrasse 89 79669 Zell i.W., Germany T +49 7625 131 0 F +49 7625 131 298 [email protected] www.benningergroup.com Benninger Zittau Küsters Textile GmbH Gerhart-Hauptmann-Strasse 15 02763 Zittau, Germany T +49 3583 83 0 F +49 3583 83 303 [email protected] Benninger AG Moscow Office Leningradsky pr-t 72 Bld. 4, Office 802 125315 Moscow, Russia T +7 495 721 18 99 F +7 495 721 30 84 [email protected] Benninger India Ltd. 415 /416 & 417 Sunshine Plaza Dadar (East) Mumbai 400 014, India T +91 22 4322 7600 F +91 22 4322 7601 [email protected] Benninger Textile Machinery Co. Ltd. Room 904, Tower A City Center of Shanghai 100 Zun Yi Road Shanghai 200051, P.R. China T +86 21 6237 1908 F +86 21 6237 1909 [email protected] You can feel it’s Benninger
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