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STRIPE IT RICH!
Ghees Raglan Jacket with
Zippered Kangaroo Pocket
Sea Side Top
Chevron Top
Stripes are the hottest thing for spring! Do you think I like black and white???
Barbara and I tease each other all the time by saying “black and white…you are
always right”. So, yes---I love black and white.
Copy and paste https://www.voguefabricsstore.com/Fabrics-Recommended-byFITNICE/ to find the Vogue fabric in the jacket and Sea Side Top. It is a great
fabric that holds it shape.
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Fabric Suggestions: Choose any knit. Pictured knit came from Vogue Fabrics. If you want
more body to your jacket add French Fuse.
You can purchase this product on my web site www.fitrnicesystem.com
JACKET: 2 to 2 ½ Yards of 60” wide fabric is sufficient for the jacket .
2 Separating zipper 24 to 30” length plus two extra zipper pulls for the pockets
¾ yard contrasting color of knit. I used Sophia Knit
You will start with your MASTER TOP PATTERN.
Make a new RAGLAN PATTERN from your MASTER TOP PATTERN
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Lay sleeve on top of FRONT/BACK PATTERN
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CUT OUT THE STRIPE FABRIC
Add ½” to each side seam and sleeve underarm seam. This is a
jacket and will go over something else. The red lines indicate
where to add! Be sure to add 1” to center front for zipper.
Cut a strip of
5
French Fuse 2”
wide and
twice the length
of the front of the
jacket. Iron to the
center front.
This will keep the
zipper flat.
Press ½” to inside of jacket.
Using the basting glue stick, match stripes,
glue. Let dry for 10 minutes and then sew
sleeve and side seams with NO pins. Your
stripes will be perfectly matched!
KANGAROO
POCKETS
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I purchased 2 two toned separating zippers from www.ghees.com plus two
extra zipper pulls. Zig zag over bottom and cut off.
Cut a strip of contrasting knit that is 3” wide and the length of the slanted edge.
Lay strip right side to
zipper tape and stitch
next to teeth.
Fold slanted
edge of pocket
to inside and glue
side of
zipper to edge.
Top stitch in place.
The top of the pocket
Will be finished with
Chanel trim and the
bottom will be caught
in the hem.
Fold strip over,
stitch in the ditch
and cut off excess.
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Cut another strip 3” wide and 1” longer than the width of the pocket. Stitch to
top of pocket with ½ seam allowance. Fold edge to inside and top to inside and
stitch in the ditch. Cut off excess.
Glue and stitch pocket to jacket front.
COLLAR
Fold jacket in half and measure
the neck edge. Cut ONE collar 2
to 3” wide and neck edge measurement
in length . Cut ONE collar from
contrasting color the same measurement.
Make sure this is cut on the stretch of the
fabric. Interface both with French Fuse
The fabric shown has two way stretch.
Stretch and stitch to the neck edge
With ½” seam allowance.
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Using your facing pattern
on the MASTER TOP
PATTERN, cut two facing
from contrasting color or
use your jacket fabric.
Interface both facings with
French Fuse
Sew contrasting collar to facing pieces. Attach the two collars at the top (long
edge) with ½” seam. Press open and fold to inside.
Re-fold top collar (this
would be the red) edge and
Pin in place ..refer to picture.
Fold under and pin to back
neckline of jacket.
Topstitch to hold in place.
For the bands at the bottom of the
jacket and the bottom of the sleeves.
BOTTOM OF JACKET
Fold jacket in half and measure
The bottom of the jacket.
Cut a strip of fabric—on the stretch
5” wide and 2” less then that
Measurement. Fold strip in half
Lengthwise and crease. Quarter the strip and quarter the jacket and match pins.
Stitch to the bottom of the jacket with ½” seam allowance.
BOTTOM OF SLEEVES
Cut two pieces of fabric 7” or 8” X 5”.
Fold in half and seam with ½” seam
allowance. Fold wrong sides together
as pictured. Repeat for second
band . Quarter band and bottom of
sleeves---mark with pins. Sew band
to sleeve with ½” seam allowance
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Working on
the center front
edge of the jacket
and the center
front of the FACING,
press ½" to the inside.
Include the edges of the
collar when pressing.
The picture at the right is
from another jacket but
used to show where to insert zipper.
This will give you a guideline
when inserting your zipper.
The zipper is the very LAST
thing you do to this jacket.
Copyright 2013
Enjoy!
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Chevron Top
Yes—bias is slimming
Fabric Suggestions: Stripe knit with even stripes.
You cannot make a bias top from an uneven stripe
1 or 1 ½ yards depending on length of shirt.
I only cut the front on the bias, if you choose to cut both, you will
need at least 2 to 2 ½ yards of 60” wide fabric
Make a new bias with dolman sleeve pattern
Start by making a dolman
sleeve pattern from your
MASTER TOP PATTERN.
Lay the dolman overlay on top of
Your pattern and trace off new
Refer to picture.
Chevron TOP
Follow these directions to make
a bias on any top.
Remember
that you will need more
fabric--maybe
by as much as an extra yard.
.
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MAKING SURE THE BIAS LINES ARE PECFECT CUT TWO FRONTS
Glue and sew a center front seam with 1/2" seam allowance, matching stripes.
Cut out back and finish back neckline ONLY with chanel trim.
Press seam open. If I need to save fabric, I only do bias on the front of my top,
but you can do front and back on the bias.
Sew shoulder seam together
with ½” seam allowance.
Lower neck line with either
of the templates in the MASTER
TOP PATTERN. Personally, I like
V necks on the bias tops.
Sew side seams with ½” seam
allowance.
Tailor the side seams
if necessary
Refer to picture
Hem top according to Knit Top directions.
Copyright 2013
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Sea
Side
Top
Fabric suggestions: Any 60” wide knit will be fine. I like the look of a stripe but
you could get a neat effect with a border print. 1 ½ yards of 60” wide fabric is
sufficient for most sizes—but check with the chart below to be more specific.
Make a new pattern for this option. Use the back of your MASTER TOP PATTERN but cut a new
front as pictured. Hold pattern up to yourself and look in a mirror.
You do not want the vertical line to come directly over the bust. Keep it more to the inside.
Measure 3” from center front and draw a line. Again—check in the mirror. For small ladies it
may look better at 2” from center. This is the beauty of sewing—you get to tailor the garment
to your figure.
3”
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Add ½” to
each side as
pictured.
When stitched
together it will
equal your
front master
top pattern.
Sew fronts together
with ½” seam allowance.
Cover seamed edge with
a 2 to 3” strip of French
Fuse. This will support
the buttons.
Sew shoulders together
With ½” seam allowance .
Scoop the neckline and
Finish with chanel trim
Glue the buttons in place.
Let dry for at least 30
minutes. Hand or
machine
Sew the buttons on.
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Set in sleeve according to MASTER TOP PATTERN directions and hem.
Enjoy!
Copyright 2013
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