UNITED STATES TARIFF COMMISSION BOYS' SHIRTS, ROBES, AND PAJAMAS I. JABLOW AND COMPANY, INC. PHILADELPHIA, PA. Report to the President on Firm Investigation No. TEA- F- 51 and Worker Investigation No. TEA-W-192 under Sections 301(c) (1) and 301(c)(2) of the Trade Expansion Act of 1962 TC Publication 582 Washington, D.C. June 1973 UNITED STATES TARIFF COMMISSION Catherine Bedell, chairman Joseph 0. Parker, Vice Chairman Will E. Leonard, Jr. George M. Moore J. Banks Young Italo H. Ablondi Kenneth R. Mason, Secretary Address all communications to United States Tariff Commission Washington, D. C. 20436 CONTENTS Page Report to the President Finding of toe Commission Statements of Commissioners: Views of Commissioners Leonard and Young Views of Chairman Bedell and CommissionerMbore Information obtained in the investigation: Articles under investigation U.S. tariff treatment Boys' and infants' shirts Boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robes Boys' and infants' pajamas U.S. consumption: Boys' shirts Boys' dressing gowns and robes Boys' pajamas U.S. producers U.S. production: Boys' shirts Boys' dressing gowns and robes Boys' pajamas U.S. importers U.S. imports Boys' shirts Boys' dressing gowns and robes Boys' pajamas U.S. exports * * * Firm and plant information: Company history, plant, and equipment Products * * * Unemployment * * * Appendix A. Statistical tables 1 3 4 5 A-1 A-2 A-2 A-6 A-11 A-14 A-15 A-16 A-16 A-18 A-19 A-20 A-21 A-21 A-22 A-24 A-25 A-26 A-27 A-27 A-28 A-29 TABLES 1. U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' shirts, not knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions to Jan. 1, 1972 A-30 ii CONTENTS Lut 2. Boys' shirts, not ornamented, not knit, of cotton: Changes in U.S. rates of duty and U.S. imports for consumption, specified years 1930 to 1972 Boys' shirts, not ornamented, not knit, of manmade 3. fibers: Changes in U.S. rates of duty, ad valorem equivalents of the rates, and U.S. imports for consumption, specified years 1930 to 1972 4. U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' shirts, knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions to Jan. 1, 1972 5. Boys' shirts, not ornamented, knit: Changes in U.S. rates of duty, ad valorem equivalents of the compound rates, and U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, specified years 1930 to 1972 6. U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions, except as indicated, to Jan. 1, 1972 7. Boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not ornamented, not knit: Changes in U.S. rates of duty, ad valorem equivalents of the compound rates, and U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, specified years 1930 to 1972 8. U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions to Jan. 1, 1972 9. U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' pajamas, not knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions, except as indicated, to Jan. 1, 1972 10. Boys' pajamas, not ornamented, not knit: Changes in U.S. rates of duty, ad valorem equivalents of the compound rates, and U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, specified years 1930 to 1972 11. U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' pajamas, knit, of the type provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions to Jan. 1, 1972 12. Boys' shirts, not knit: U.S. production, imports for consumption, exports of domestic merchandise, and apparent consumption, by types, 1965-72 13. Boys' shirts, knit: U.S. production, imports for consumption, exports of domestic merchandise, and apparent consumption, 1965-72 Ar61 A-32 .A-33 A-3 1 A-35 A-38 A-39 A-40 A-42 A-43 A-44 A- 45 iii CONTENTS Page 14. Boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not knit: U.S. production, imports for consumption, exports of domestic merchandise, and apparent consumption, 1965-72 15. Boys' pajamas, not knit: U.S. production, imports for consumption, exports of domestic merchandise, and apparent consumption, 1965-72 16. Boys' pajamas, knit: U.S. production, imports for consumption, exports of domestic merchandise, and apparent consumption, 1965-72 17. Boys' shirts, not knit: U.S. production, by types and fibers, 1965-72 18. Boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes, and beach robes, not knit: U.S. production, by fibers, 1965-72 19. Boys' pajamas, not knit: U.S. production, by fibers, 1965-72 20. Boys' pajamas, knit: U.S. production, by fibers, 1965-72 21. Quantitative restraint levels under the LTA for selected cotton apparel categories pursuant to respective U.S. bilateral agreements with specified Asian countries, for specified effective periods 22. Quantitative restraint levels for selected manmade-fiber apparel categories under respective U.S. bilateral agreements with specified Asian countries, for specified effective periods 23. Boys' shirts, not knit: U.S. imports for consumption, by types and fibers, 1965-72 24. Boys' dress shirts, not ornamented, not knit: U.S. imports for consumption, by principal sources, 1970-72 25. Boys' sport shirts, not ornamented, not knit: U.S. imports for consumption, by principal sources, 1970-72 26. Boys' knit shirts: U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, 1965-72 27. Boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not knit: U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, 1965-72 28. Boys' pajamas, not knit: U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, 1965-72 29. Boys' dress and sport shirts, and pajamas: Percent of total purchases by consumers, by price ranges, 1972 30. Boys' dress and sport shirts, and pajamas: Average retail price paid by consumers, 1967-72 A•46 A-47 A-48 A-49 A-50 A-51 A-52 A-53 A-54 A-55 A-56 A-57 A-58 A-59 A-60 *** *** iv CONTENTS Page 31. Selected boys' and infants' shirts, robes, and pajamas: Importers' selling prices, estimated and constructed assuming the 1930 rates of duty, and selling prices of items produced by I. Jablow & Co., Inc., in 1972 32. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Average selling price per dozen of production items sold in greatest volume to customers by Jablow on specified dates, 1971-72 33. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Annual sales in quantity of boys' shirts, robes, and pajamas, 1968-72 34. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Annual sales in value of boys' shirts, robes, and pajamas, 1968-72 35. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Sales to the five largest discount store customers, 1966-71 36. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Average number of workers and total man-hours worked, annual 1968-72, monthly 1971-72, and January-March 1973 37. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Comparative statement of profit and loss, accounting years, 1968-72 38. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Ratios of financial data, accounting years, 1968-72 39. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Comparative statements of other administrative, selling, and shipping expenses, accounting years 1968-72 40. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Comparative statement of financial condition, accounting years 1968-72 41. I. Jablow & Co., Inc.: Comparative statement of sources and uses of funds, accounting years 1968-72 REPORT TO THE PRESIDENT U.S. Tariff Commission , .June 5, 1973. To the President: In accordance with section 301(f)(1) of the Trade Expansion Act of 1962 (TEA)(76 Stat. 885), the U.S. Tariff Commission herein reports the results of an investigation made under sections 301(c)(1) and 301(c)(2) of that act in response to petitions filed on behalf of a textile firm and its former workers for determination of eligibility to apply for adjustment assistance. On March 26, 1973, on the basis of a petition filed on behalf of workers and former workers of I. Jablow & Co., Inc., Philadelphia, Pa., the Commission instituted an investigation (TEA-W-192) to determine whether, as a result in major part of concessions granted under trade agreements, articles like or directly competitive with boys' dress and sport shirts, knit and nonknit, with chief value of cotton or manmade fibers (of the types provided for in items 380.00, 380.04, 380.06, 380.27, 380.81, and 380.84 of the Tariff Schedules of the United States (TSUS))produced by I. Jablow & Co., Inc.,Philadelphia, Pa., are being imported into the United States in such increased quantities as to cause, or threaten to cause, the unemployment or underemployment of a significant number or proportion of the workers of such firm or an appropriate subdivision thereof. 1 2 On April 16, 1973, the Commission, on the basis of a petition filed on behalf of I. Jablow & Co., Inc., Philadelphia, Pa., and on its own motion, instituted a consolidated investigation on behalf of the firm and its workers to determine whether, as a result in major part of concessions granted under trade agreements, articles like or directly competitive with boys' and infants' dress and sport shirts, knit and nonknit, of cotton or manmade fibers; boys' robes; and boys' pajamas (of the types provided for in items 380.00, 380.02, 380.04, 380.06, 380.15, 380.18, 380.21, 380.24, 380.27, 380.63, 380.66, 380.81, 380.84, 382.00, 382.04, 382.06, 382.33, 382.78 and 382.81 of the Tariff Schedules of the United States (TSUS)) produced by said firm are being imported into the United States in such increased quantities as to cause, or threaten to cause, serious injury to such firm, and/or the unemployment or underemployment of a significant number or proportion of the workers of such firm or an appropriate subdivision thereof. The scope of the consolidated investigation was broader than that of the initial worker investigation. Notice of the consolidated investigation was published in the Federal Register on April 19, 1973 (38 F.R. 9694). Notice of the initial worker investigation (TEA-W-192) was published in the Federal Register on March 30, 1973 (38 F.R. 8319). The notice published on April 19, 1973, superseded that published on March 30, 1973. hearing was requested. by either filing party and none was helc'.. No 3 The information in this report was obtained principally from the petitioners, the major customers of I. Jablow & Co., Inc., and from the Commission's files. Finding of the Commission Based on its investigation, the Commission finds (Chairman Bedell and Commissioner Moore dissenting, and Vice Chairman Parker not participating) that articles like or directly competitive with the boys' and infants' dress and sport shirts, knit and nonknit, of cotton or manmade fibers; boys' robes; and boys' pajamas (of the types provided for in items 380.00, 380.02, 380.04, 380.06, 380.15, 380.18, 380.21, 380.24, 380.27, 380.63, 380.66, 380.81, 380.84, 382.00, 382.04, 382.06, 382.33, 382.78, and 382.81 of the TSUS produced. by I. Jablow & Company, Inc., are not, as a result in major part of concessions granted under trade agreements, being imported into the United States in such increased quantities as to cause, or threaten to cause serious injury to such firm or the unemployment or underemployment of a significant number or proportion of the workers of such firm or an appropriate subdivision thereof. 4 STATEMENTS OF COMMISSIONERS 1/ Views of Commissioners Leonard and Young The petitioning workers in this investigation were employed by I. Jablow & Co., Inc., Philadelphia, Pa. The output of the firm had consisted almost wholly of boys' shirts. The production of other articles, which consisted of boys' pajamas and robes, had been small, * * *. Thus, any increased imports of those articles could not have had a significant effect on employment at the company. Our determination in the instant case is negative because one of the statutory criteria has not been met, i.e., that the increase in imports of articles like or directly competitive with boys' shirts produced by I. Jablow & Co. is the result in major part of concessions granted under trade agreements. Our reasoning in support of this determination is set forth in a statement of our views in an earlier Commission investigation under the Trade Expansion Act. 2/ 1/ Commissioner Ablondi concurs in the result. Men's and Boys' Shirts, Not Knit: J. H. Bonck Company, Inc., New Orleans La., . . ., Investigation No. TEA-F-35 . . TC Publication 439, pp. 6 11. 7/ - 5 Views of Chairman Bedell and Commissioner Moore This investigation was undertaken in response to petitions filed by I. Jablow and Co., Inc., Philadelphia, Pa., and its former workers, for determinations of eligibility to apply for adjustment assistance. Under the provisions of the Act, the Commission, in order to make an affirmative decision respecting the petitions, must find that each of the following four criteria have been met. (1) Imports of articles like or directly competitive with those produced by the petitioning firm are increasing, (2) Such increased imports are the result in major part of trade agreement concessions, (3) The petitioning firm is being seriously injured or threatened therewith, and its workers unemployed or underemployed or threatened therewith; and (1) The increased imports, resulting in major part from trade-agreement concessions, are the major factor causing or threatening to cause serious injury to the firm and the unemployment or underemployment of its workers. The company, which ceased production on March 30, 1973, manufactured boys' dress and sport shirts (both woven and knit), and boys' pajamas and robes from woven fabric. The great bulk of output in recent years consisted of boys' shirts produced from knit fabrics and from blended woven fabrics made from cotton and manmade fibers. All of the firm's output was from purchased fabrics which were cut according to patterns in the Philadelphia plant. These patterns were then sent to outside contractors for sewing, after which they were returned to the plant for pressing, inspection, and storage until delivered to customers. 6 From the evidence developed during this investigation, we conclude that the firm and its workers have met the criteria of the Trade Expansion Act of 1962, for eligibility to apply for adjustment assistance. During recent years, sales of virtually all of its product lines have decreased. Concurrently, imports of those same product lines have increased substantially and have heavily impacted the domestic market. There have been extensive duty reductions on each of the articles in question as a result of trade agreements. With respect to boys' shirts made from woven cotton and from blended cotton/manmade fibers, for example, the U.S. imports more than doubled during the 1965-72 period, rising from 1.4 million to 3.0 million dozen. During that period, the ratio of imports to consumption increased from 15 percent to 40 percent. Trade agreement concessions on such shirts have resulted in percentage reductions 'in the duty of aboUt 53 percent with respect to boys' shirts in chief value of cotton, and of 55 percent with respect to those of manmade fibers, including blends. The picture respecting knit shirts for boys of a kind produced by Jablow is similar to that for shirts made from woven fabric. U.S. imports also doubled over the 1965-72 period, rising from 0.9 million dozen to 1.7 million dozen, and the ratio of imports to apparent consumption increased from 12 percent to 25 percent. Trade agreement concessions on such articles have resulted in reductions in the rates of duty amounting to 53 percent for knit shirts of cotton and about 49 percent for those made from manmade fibers and blends. 7 With respect to both woven and knit shirts for boys, it appears clear that declines in domestic production during 1965-72--from 8.1 million dozen to 1.6 million dozen, and from 6.6 million dozen to 5.2 million dozen, respectively--were attributable in substantial part to the increased imports. A third major item in Jablow's production line consisted of boys' robes made from woven fabrics. Over the 1965-72 period, imports of such articles increased by 69 percent, or from 13 thousand dozen to 22 thousand dozen. Again, the ratio of imports to apparent consumption of such articles rose almost without interruption from 8 percent to 13 percent. Virtually all of the increased domestic consumption of such articles in recent years has been supplied by a growing volume of imports stimulated by duty reductions amounting to more than 50 percent for most of the robes in question. Finally, with respect to the other major product line made by Jablow--boys' pajamas made from woven fabrics--the imports increased from 116 thousand dozen in 1965 to 277 thousand dozen in 1972. Total domestic production declined proportionately to the increase in imports; and as a result, the ratio of imports to apparent consumption rose from 8 percent to 22 percent during the period in question. As indicated above, such pajamas have also been subject to substantial concessions pursuant to trade agreements. 8 Due to reduced trade agreement rates of duty, importers were able to undersell Jablow in all of its product lines by a substantial margin. Although Jablow lowered prices in an effort to remain competitive with imports, the difference in price per unit--due in major part to trade agreement concessions--was so great that Jablow lost sales in virtually every major product line. In this connection, it is to be noted that without trade agreement duty reductions, the unit price of the imported merchandise in the domestic market would have been higher than the price of some of Jablow s product lines, and the imported product would have been at least competitively priced for most boys' shirts, which constituted * * * of the total value of Jablow's sales in 1971 and 1972. * * *. As a result, the plant closed on March 30, 1973, and at the present time virtually all of the employees have been terminated. Under these circunstances, we conclude that this firm and the former employees thereof have clearly met the criteria under the Trade Expansion Act of 1962 for eligibility to apply for adjustment assistance. A-1 INFORMATION OBTAINED IN THE INVESTIGATION Articles Under Investigation I. Jablow & Co., Inc. is a family-owned firm, having a plant in Philadelphia, Pa., and a sales office in New York City. The company, which ceased production on March 30, 1973, manufactured boys' dress and sport shirts, 1/ (both woven and knit), boys' pajamas (woven), and boys' robes (woven). The garments were sold under two trade names--Big Top for sizes 3 to 7 2/ and Collegiate, for sizes 8 to 20. 3/ The great bulk of the company's output in recent years consisted of boys' shirts; they were mostly of woven fabric and of a 50-percent cotton and 50-percent manmade fiber blend. 1/ In the past, dress shirts contained an extra piece of fabric attached to the collar called a neckband. Also, the buttonhole area on the front of the shirt contained an extra piece of fabric called a top center or french center. In general, dress shirts were of conservative patterns and required more tailoring than sport shirts. Today, the distinction between a dress and sport shirt is much less pronounced, since many are tailored the same and worn interchangeably. However, dress shirts generally have a wider range of designated collar sizes than sport shirts and,in contrast to sport shirts, generally have a designated sleeve length. 2/ Sizes 3 to 7 supposedly correspond to the age of the wearer, but also range from .a 10-inch to 11-inch neck size. 3/ Sizes 8 through 20 range from a 11-1/2 inch to 14-1/2 inch neck size. Intermediate sizes in even numbers are in increments of onehalf inch. A-2 U.S. Tariff Treatment Wearing apparel for males is classified under the Tariff Schedules of the United States Annotated (TSUSA) in two categories: (1) Wearing apparel for males over 6 years of age and (2) wearing apparel for chil- dren, regardless of their sex, up to and including 6 years of age. The so-called boys' apparel produced by Jablow, which was in sizes 3 through 20, would fall in both categories. The rates of duty in the TSUSA for boys' and infants' apparel vary depending on the presence or absence of ornamentation, whether knit or not knit, the fiber in chief value, and in some instances, the value per garment or the value per pound. Most of the types of wearing apparel produced by Jablow (i.e., boys' shirts, pajamas, and robes) were not ornamented and were of cotton, of manmade fibers, or of blends of these fibers. Boys' and infants' shirts The following table shows the 1930 rates, the 1967 rates, and the current rates of duty applicable to the boys' and infants' shirts of cotton and/or manmade fibers. 1/ * * *. 1/ Excludes shirts of wool because imports of such shirts are negligible. •• • ▪ • A— 3 U) 0'1 •H Ol •H a) Pi U) - O 00 r0 • Current r ate rd a P a) ,C) C...) rd Ln Lf1 • Cr) -6-..4_,:,. --e- in N Cr) --1- Ul ••- v.... :. + In 4', • -e• + 111 rd 00 O Cr) cd rd N UI O H ■0 in N H N H in N N CO 0 • a) rd -P co Cr) • Ln cd Cr) -100 CO N • 0J • 0 -6<z. In 0 Ill N N N •• •• •• •• •• •• 01 U) 4.3 \ 0 • in rd •• g cc 40 cr) 19 30 rate rl 00 H -; rdg • 0 H 0 • 0 CO No Cr) 00 •H Cr) LC\ -6..c. + tr.\ %-t=4. • -e- + 0 01 0 ON •• •• •• *--s-: if \ -t3U -I' -I' •• •• • • Lt- \ C- Lc\ --1- Cr) --1• 00 C\I N• (\ 83^ H ia (1)-1 i O • 05 M oo pi • cd \-0 U) 0 g •• • ✓0 Cr) ef--i M 0 • • •,--1 • •r-1 H rd • U) U) a) ✓ U) -P •H CH rct a) NI eH •• rd 0 •H (ll A-) -P ✓d 0 rd (1) g 0 •H 0 A — 00.0 00 4.0 -P •H rd 0 Pq Pq HI M H a) •H • A-) •• •• •• •• • • •• o -7. ^ 0 ^ O ■.0 ^ 0 •• CO ^L •• •• •• •• •• H ^ OD 0 • .--1". • VD • r-1 • C-- (n --- • ONON • CO • c0 0 Cr) 0 Cr) 0 N 00 N • CO • CO N 01 c0 N • • • c0 co co cr) rd cf-) 0 0 •• H +) 0 • co • 0 40 0 •• g C° 01 Ca. CH 0 - U) cd F-1 u) (1.) (1) r0 •H cd a) A-) 0 A-) co .H coo Of cotton Brie f descr iption A-) Cr) O 0 Cr) 0 Cr) CO (r) 01 0 cv 0 Cr) co co c0 01 Cr) (Y) tc) O 0 H (1) 0 0 a) •H 0 0 rd •H cf) cr) H • O rl 0 cd1(1) I P-1 P4 N1 cd cd A-4 The U.S.. rate of duty on boys' dress and sport shirts, in chief value of cotton, not knit, not ornamented (TSUS item 380.27), was reduced from the 1930 rate of 45 percent ad valorem to 25 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1948, in the first round of negotiations under the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT). The 25-percent rate remained in effect until 1968 when, under the Kennedy Round of GATT negotiations, it was reduced in five annual stages effective January 1 of each year, 1968 to 1972, to the present rate of 21 percent ad valorem (tables 1 and 2). The U.S. rate of duty on infants' shirts, in chief value of cotton, not knit, not ornamented (TSUS item 382.33), was reduced from the 1930 rate of 37.5 percent ad valorem to 20 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1948, in the first round of GATT negotiations. The 20-percent rate remained in effect until 1968 when, under the Kennedy Round of GATT negotiations, it was reduced in five annual stages effective January 1 of each year, 1968 to 1972, to 16.5 percent ad valorem, the present rate. A small amount of imports of boys' and infants' shirts of woven cotton fabrics are ornamented. 1/ Such articles are dutiable under TSUS items 380.00 and 382.00, respectively, and the relevant history of rate changes is shown in table 1. 1/ Ornamentation, as defined in headnote 3, schedule 3, includes, for example, initials or an insignia embroidered on the pocket of a shirt. A-5 The U.S. rate of duty on boys' and infants' shirts in chief value of manmade fibers, not knit, not ornamented (TSUS items 380.84 and 382.81), was 45 cents per pound plus 65 percent ad valorem in 1930. The rate was reduced to 27.5 cents per pound plus 35 percent ad valorem in the first round of GATT negotiations, effective January 1, 1948. Further reductions, to 25 cents per pound plus 32.5 percent ad valorem, effective June 6, 1951, and to 25 cents per pound plus 27.5 percent ad valorem, effective June 30, 1958, were negotiated under the GATT. No further reductions have been made in this rate of duty. Based on the quantity and value of imports in 1972, the ad valorem equivalents for boys' and infants' shirts of manmade fibers, not knit, not ornamented, were 84.2 percent in 1930, 46.8 percent in 1948, 43.2 percent in 1951, and 38.2 percent in 1958-72 (table 3). The ad valorem equivalent in 1972 was 46 percentage points less than in 1930. The changes in the rates of duty for boys' and infants' shirts of manmade fibers, not knit, ornamented (TSUS items 380.04 and 382.04) are shown in table 1. The U.S. rate of duty on boys' knit shirts, not ornamented, of cotton (TSUS item 380.06), was reduced from the 1930 rate of 45 percent ad valorem to 35 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1948, in the first round of negotiations under the GATT ( table 4). A further reduction to 25 percent ad valorem was negotiated under the GATT effective September 10, 1955. The 25-percent rate remained in effect A-6 until 1968, when it was reduced under the Kennedy Round in five annual stages to the present rate of 21 percent ad valorem. A small amount of imports of boys' knit shirts of cotton is ornamented. Such articles are dutiable under TSUS item 380.00 and the history of rate changes is shown in table 4. The U.S. rate of duty on boys' knit shirts, not ornamented, of manmade fibers (TSUS item 380.81), was 45 cents per pound plus 65 Percent ad valorem in 1930. The rate was reduced to 27.5 cents per pound plus 35 percent ad valorem in the first round of the GATT negotiations, effective January 1, 1948, and was further reduced to 25 cents per pound plus 32.5 percent ad valorem, effective June 6, 1951. This rate of duty is still in effect. These reductions constitute an ad valorem equivalent reduction from 81 percent in 1930 to 41.4 percent in 1972 (table 5) Ornamented knit shirts constitute a small portion of imports of boys' and infants' knit shirts of manmade fibers. Such articles are dutiable under item 380.04 and 382.04 and the history of rate changes is shown in table 4. Boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robes Rates of duty on boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robes vary depending on factors enumerated earlier in this section. 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Cl d 00 0 •H . . -..., H I 0 C\.1 rid c0 00 0 MM cd A-8 The U.S. rate of duty on boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robeso of cotton, not knit, not ornamented, valued not over $2.50 each (TSUS items 380.15 and 382.15), was reduced from the 1930 rate of 37.5 percent ad valorem to 20 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1948, in the first round of GATT negotiations. The 20-percent rate remained in effect until the Kennedy Round of GATT negotiations in 1968, when it was reduced in five annual stages, 1968 through 1972,to the present rate of 16.5 percent ad valorem (table 6). The U.S. rate of duty on boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robes,of cotton, not knit, not ornamented,valued over $2.50 each (TSUS items 380.18 and 382.18),was reduced from the 1930 rate of 37.5 percent ad valorem to 20 percent ad valorem in a trade-agreement with the United Kingdom, effective January 1, 1939. Successive trade agree- ment concessions under the GATT reduced the rate of duty to 10 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1948, to 9.5 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1968, and then in yearly reductions to the present rate of 8 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1971 (table 7). Boys' and infants'• on-Lamented dressing gowns and robes of cotton, not knit and knit constitute a small portion of total imports of boys' and infants' cotton dressing gowns and robes. Such articles are dutiable under items 380.00 and 382.00 and the history of the rate changes is shown in table 6. The U.S. rate of duty on boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robes, of wool, not knit, not ornamented, valued not over $4 per pound A- 9 (TSUS items 380.63 and 382.60), was 33 cents per pound plus 45 percent ad valorem in 1930 and was reduced in a trade agreement with the United Kingdom to 33 cents per pound plus 30 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1939• The rate of duty was reduced to 25 cents per pound plus 25 percent ad valorem under the GATT, effective January 1, 1948, and in successive reductions in 1956-58, effective June 30 of each year, to 25 cents per pound plus 21 percent ad valorem effective June 30, 1958. There have been no reductions since that date. The U.S. rate of duty on boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robes,of wool, not knit, not ornamented, valued over $4 per pound (TSUS items 380.66 and 382.63), was reduced from the 1930 rate of 50 cents'per pound plus 50 percent ad valorem to 50 cents per pound plus 30 percent ad valorem,effective January 1, 1939,in a trade agreement with the United Kingdom. Further reductions occurred under the GATT effective January 1, 1948,to 37.5 cents per pound plus 25 percent ad valorem, and in three annual stages effective June 30 of each year, 1956-58, to 37.5 cents per pound plus 21 percent ad valorem, the present rate. Boys' and infants' ornamented dressing gowns and robes of wool, not knit, constitute a small portion of imports of boys' and infants' woven wool dressing gowns and robes. Such articles are dutiable under items 380.02 and 382.02 and the history of the rate changes is shown table 6. A-10 The U.S. rate of duty on boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robes, of manmade fibers, not knit, not ornamented (TSUS items 380.84 and 382.81), was 45 cents per pound plus 65 percent ad valorem in 1930. The rate was reduced under the GATT to 27.5 cents per pound plus 35 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1948; to 25 cents per pound plus 32.5 percent ad valorem, effective June 6, 1951; and to the present rate of 25 cents per pound plus 27.5 percent ad valorem effective June 30, 1958. Based on the quantity and value of imports in 1972, the ad valorem equivalent for boys' dressing gowns and robes, of manmade fibers, not knit, not ornamented (TSUS item 380.84), were 79.1 percent in 1930, 53.6 percent in 1948, 40.3 percent in 1951, and 35.3 percent in 1958-72 (table 7). The changes in the rates of duty applicable to boys' ornamented dressing gowns and robes, of manmade fiber, not knit(TSUS items 380.04 and 382.04), are shown in table 6. The U.S. rate history on boys' and infants' dressing gowns and robes, not ornamented, knit, of cotton (TSUS items 380.06 and 382.06), is the same as that for boys' and infants' cotton knit shirts discussed in the previous section. Similarly, the U.S. rate of duty on infants' dressing gowns and robes, of manmade fibers, knit, not ornamented (TSUS item 382.78), has the same rate history as that for boys' and infants' shirts of manmade fibers, knit, not ornamented, already covered in this section. A-11 Boys' and infants' pajamas ,Boys' pajamas, similar to those produced by Jablow, are provided for in several items of the TSUS. The 1930 rates of duty, the rates in effect in 1967 (pre-Kennedy Round), and the current (1973) rates of duty are shown in the table below. Boys' and infants' pajamas, knit and not knit, ornamented and not ornamented, by specified fibers: The 1930 rates of duty, the 1967 (preKennedy Round) rates, and current (1973) rates (Cents' per pound; percent ad valorem) TSUS Brief description item 1/ 380.00, 382.00 380.04, 382.04 : Boys' and infants' pajamas, not knit: Ornamented: Of cotton : : : Of manmade : fibers. 380.21, : 382.21 : • 380.24, : 382.24 : •• 380.39, : 382.33 : 380.84, : 382.81 : Not ornamented: Valued not over $1.50 per suit, of cotton. Valued over $1.50 per suit, of cotton. Of cotton Of manmade fibers. : Boys' and infants' knit pajamas: Ornamented: : Of cotton 380.00, 382.00 : 380.04, : 382.04 : : 382.06 : 380.06, 380.81, : 382.78 : Of manmade fibers. Not ornamented: Of cotton Of manmade fibers. • : 1930 rate : 1967 rate : Current rate : 9o% : 9o% : 42.5% ; 42.5% : : 37.5% : 35% 42.5% 20% : 16.5% 10% : 8% : : 37.5% : : 37.5% : 20% : 16.5% : 45¢ + 65% : 250 + 27.5% : 250 + 27.5% 90% : 42.5% : 90% 42.5% ; 42.5% 25% : 21% : 45% : : 35% ; 450 + 65% ; 250 + 32.5% ; 250 + 32.5% 1/ TSUS items 380 .00, 380.04, 380.06, 380.21, 380.24, 380.39, 380.81, and 380.84 apply to men's and boys' apparel, including pajamas. Items 382.00, 382.04, 382 .06, 382.21, 382.24, 382.33, 382.78, and 382.81 apply to women's, girls', and infants' apparel, including pajamas. A-12 The U.S. rate of duty on boys' and infants' pajamas, not knit, not ornamented, of cotton, valued not over $1.50 per suit (TSUS items 380.21 and 382.21), was reduced from the 1930 rate of 37.5 percent ad valorem to 20 percent ad valorem, effective January 1, 1948,under the GATT. The next rate reduction took place under the Kennedy Round in 1968, when annual rate reductions in 1968 through 1972 resulted in the present rate of 16.5 percent ad valorem (tables 9 and 10). The rate of duty on boys' and infants' pajamas, not knit, not ornamented, of cotton, valued over $1.50 per suit (TSUS items 380.24 and 382.24), was reduced from the 1930 rate of 37.5 percent ad valorem to 20 percent ad valorem in a trade agreement with the United Kingdom, effective January 1, 1939, and to 10 percent ad valorem in the first round of GATT negotiations, effective January 1, 1948. The 10-percent rate remained in effect until the Kennedy Round reductions resulting in the present rate of 8 percent ad valorem (tables 9 and 10). A small proportion of boys' and infants' woven cotton pajamas is ornamented. Such articles are dutiable under TSUS items 380.00 and 382.00 shown in table 9. Boys' and infants' pajamas, of manmade fibers, not knit, not ornamented, are dutiable under TSUS items 380.84 and 382.81. The rate history of these items is shown in table 9 and is the same as that on boys' and infants' gowns and robes of manmade fibers, not ornamented, not knit, as discussed previously in this section. The ad valorem A-13 equivalent of the U.S. rate of duty on boys' and infants' woven manmade-fiber pajamas was reduced from 84.5 percent ad valorem in 1930 to 38.3 percent ad valorem in 1972 pursuant to successive GATT I negotiations. The changes in the rates of duty for boys' and infants' pajamas, of manmade fibers, not knit, ornamented (TSUS items 380.04 and 382.04), are also shown in table 9. The rate history on boys' and infants' knit pajamas, in chief value of cotton, not ornamented, (included in TSUS items 380.06 and 382.06), is the same as in the previous section on boys' and infants' knit shirts of cotton. Boys' and infants' ornamented knit pajamas of cotton constitute a small percentage of total imports of boys' and infants t pajamas. Such items are dutiable under TSUS items 380.00 and 382.00; the rate history is shown in table 11. The U.S. rate of duty on infants' knit pajamas, not ornamented, of manmade fibers (TSUS item 382.78), was reduced from the 1930 rate of 45 cents per pound plus 65 percent ad valorem to 27.5 cents per pound plus 35 percent ad valorem in GATT negotiations, effective January 1, 1948, and to the present rate of 25 cents per pound plus 32.5 percent ad valorem, effective June 6, 1951. Boys' and infants' ornamented pajamas, of manmade fibers, knit, constitute a small percentage of total imports of boys' and infants' pajamas and are dutiable under TSUS items 380.04 and 382.04. A-114 U.S. Consumption Boys' shirts' Total U.S. consumption of boys' dress and sport shirts of both woven and knit fabrics declined during the period 1965-72. As shown in the table below, total consumption of these shirts decreased irregularly from 16.8 million dozen in 1965 to a low of 14.4 million dozen in 1971 and 1972. This downward trend is attributable s in part s toadeclin hato'sbir eandtohurbilyof shirts of manmade fibers, the principal fibers used. Boys' dress and sport shirts, woven and knit: U.S. apparent consumption, 1965-72 (In thousands of dozens) Year ! Woven 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 ! Knit ! Total : 9,409 : 7,406 : 16,815 : 10,535 : 8,120 : 18,655 : 9,753 : 6,696 : 16,449 : 9,615 : 6,906 : 16,521 : 8,854 : 5,725 : 14,579 : 9,158 : 5,652 : 14,810 : 8,671 : 5,772 : 14,443 : 7,474 : 6,930 : 14,404 Source: Compiled from tables 12 and 13 in appendix A. Domestic consumption of boys' dress shirts of woven fabrics increased without interruption from 1.7 million dozen in 1965 to 3.2 million dozen in 1970 and 1971, but decreased to 2.6 million dozen in 1972 (table 12). Greater emphasis on shirt styling, such as in collar design, colors, and patterns, and in promoting the comfort and neatness theme, contributed to the steady growth in the consumption of A-15 boys' woven dress shirts during the period 1965-71. Consumption of boys' sport shirts of woven fabrics increased from 7.7 million dozen in 1965 to 8.6 million dozen in 1966, but declined thereafter to 4.8 million dozen in 1972. Domestic consumption of boys' knit dress and sport shirts increased from 7.4 million dozen in 1965 to 8.1 million dozen in 1966, declined erratically to 5.7 million dozen in 1969 and 1970, then increased to 6.9 million dozen in 1972 (table 13). From 1930 to about 1968, the principal material used in dress and sport shirts was woven fabric wholly of cotton. As a result of the development of "wash-and-wear" dress and sport shirts of polyester fiber and cotton (principally polyester), blended fabrics were increasingly used during the 1955-65 period, but not until the advent of the " permanent press" finish on this fabric did its growth increase rapidly. The consumption of such fabrics in shirts finally exceeded the use of all-cotton fabrics in 1968 and has since increased its share of the market. Boys' dressing gowns and robes Domestic consumption of boys' dressing gowns and robes of woven fabrics increased from 156,000 dozen in 1965 to 207,000 dozen in 1970, then declined to 167,000 dozen in 1972 (table 14). Consumption of boys' dressing gowns and robes of knit fabrics is negligible. A-16 Boys' pajamas Annual domestic consumption of boys' pajamas of both woven and knit fabrics fluctuated during the period 1965-72, as shown in the table below. Boys' pajamas, woven and knit: U.S. apparent consumption, 1965-72 (In thousands of dozens) Woven : Knit : Total Year • • • • 19 65 1,401 : : : : : : : 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1,128 1,249 1,335 1,330 1,294 1,275 1,255 : : : : : : : : 253 370 406 434 329 367 215 179 : : : : : : : : 1,654 1,498 1,655 1,769 1,659 1,661 1,490 1,434 Source: Compiled from tables 15 and 16 in appendix A. U.S. consumption of boys' pajamas of woven fabrics declined by 19 percent from 1965 to 1966, increased by 18 percent through 1969, and then declined by 6 percent by 1972 (table 15). Consumption of boys' knit pajamas increased 72 percent from 1965 to 1968, then declined by 59 percent by 1972 (table 16). U.S. Producers In 1967, the latest year for which such data are available from the Census of Manufactures, there were 768 domestic concerns involved in the production of men's and boys' shirts and nightwear. Of these 768, 294 were classified as manufacturers, 137 as jobbers, and 337 as contractors. Of the 294 manufacturers, 161, * * *, had less than 100 A-17 employees, 79 had 100 to 249 employees, and 54 had 250 or more employees. In 1967, U.S. shirt manufacturers were concentrated in the Middle Atlantic and Southern States. The children's sleepwear industry has been faced recently with the problem of complying with Federal standards on sleepwear up to size 6x. The Children's Nonflammable Sleepwear Rule (DOC FF 3-71), effective July 29, 1972, required that all sleepwear through size 6x must meet the Department of Commerce regulation FF 3-71 or be labeled to the effect that they do not. Effective July 29, 1973, all sleepwear apparel up to size 6x will be required to meet the Government standards or be removed from the market. In response to the foregoing ruling, several domestic manufacturers have de-emphasized or converted their children's nightwear business to making men's and boys' and/or women's and girls' nightwear not subject to Federal standards because of the high costs in making flame retardant garments. Legislation has already been proposed that would extend the rules to other sizes (sizes 7-14) and products (dresses and shirts). * * *. The flammability standards covering children's nightwear coupled with the almost certain expansion of standards to include other sizes and products played a major role in the decision of * * *, a large manufacturer of children's knitwear, to discontinue its children's sleepwear production. * * * action came 6 months before all manufacturers producing children's sleepwear sizes up to 6x were required to conform to the flammability test. A-18 U.S. Production Boys' shirts Annual domestic production of boys' dress and sport shirts of woven fabrics increased from 8.1 million dozen in 1965 to 8.7 million dozen in 1966, but then continually decreased to 4.6 million dozen in 1972 (table 17). The production of boys' shirts of cotton declined sharply from 7.3 million dozen in 1965 to 1.9 million dozen in 1972, whereas the production of boys' shirts of manmade fiber/cotton blends (chiefly manmade fiber) increased in the 1965-72 period to a peak of 3.3 million dozen in 1970, then declined to 2.5 million dozen in 1972. U.S. production of boys' dress shirts of woven fabrics decreased from an annual' average of 1.6 million dozen during the period 1965-68 to 1.0 million dozen in 1972; the production of such shirts of woven cotton fabrics accounted for much of this decline, decreasing sharply from 1.4 million dozen in 1965 to 493,000 dozen in 1972 (table 17). The production of boys' shirts of woven polyester and cotton fabrics (chiefly polyester) increased substantially from 142,000 dozen in 1965 to 771,000 dozen in 1970, then decreased to 555,000 dozen in 1972. Such polyester/cotton blends accounted for 53 percent of U.S. production of boys' dress shirts in 1972, compared with only 9 percent in 1965. Domestic production of boys' sport shirts of woven fabrics during the 1965-72 period declined steadily from a high of 7.1 million dozen in 1966 to a low of 3.5 million dozen in 1972 (table 17). Some of the A-19 factors associated with this decline were cited in the section on U.S. consumption. As with dress shirts, production of sport shirts of woven cotton fabrics have declined sharply since 1965, while those of polyester fiber and cotton (principally polyester) and of other manmade fibers have increased (table 17). In 1965, 8 percent of the sport shirts produced were of fabrics of manmade fibers; in 1972, the share had increased to 55 percent. The development of the "permanent press" finish on polyester and cotton fabrics contributed largely to the increase in sport shirts of woven manmade fibers. U.S. production of boys' knit shirts during 1965-72 consisted predominantly of sport shirts. Total production of boys' knit shirts rose from 6.6 million dozen in 1965 to 7.0 million dozen in 1966, de- creased to an annual average of 4.7 million dozen in the period 1969-71, then increased to 5.2 million dozen in 1972 (table 13). Boys' dressing gowns and robes U.S. production of boys' dressing gowns and robes of woven fabric, mostly of cotton, increased irregularly from 145,000 dozen in 1965 to 185,000 dozen in 1970, then decreased to 150,000 dozen in 1972 (table 18). Production of boys' dressing gowns and robes of woven cotton fabrics increased almost without interruption from 86,000 dozen in 1965 to 162,000 dozen in 1968, then declined to 126,000 dozen in 1972. Production of boys' dressing gowns and robes of woven wool fabrics declined from 53,000 dazen in 1965 to a negligible amount in 1972, whereas A-20 production of such gowns and robes of woven manmade-fiber fabrics rose threefold in the same period. Production of boys' dressing gowns and robes of knit fabrics is insignificant. Boys' pajamas Domestic production of boys' pajamas of woven fabrics decreased irregularly from a peak of 1.3 million dozen in 1965 to 985,000 dozen in 1972 (table 19). Production of boys' pajamas of woven cotton fab- rics, the principal kind, has trended downward since 1968, whereas production of such pajamas of woven manmade-fiber fabrics has more than doubled. Production of boys' pajamas of woven wool fabrics decreased from 479,000 dozen in 1965 to a negligible amount in 1972. Domestic production of boys' knit pajamas increased from 247,000 dozen in 1965 to 423,000 dozen in 1968, then declined to 174,000 dozen in 1972 (table 20). Output of such pajamas of cotton, by far the leading fiber, increased from 146,000 dozen in 1965 to 385,000 dozen in 1968, then declined sharply to 146,000 dozen in 1972. Production of boys' knit pajamas of wool increased from 91,000 dozen in 1965 to 136,000 dozen in 1966, then decreased to a negligible amount in 1972. Production of such pajamas of manmade fibers increased from 10,000 dozen in 1965 to a high of 49,000 dozen in 1970, then decreased to 28,000 dozen in 1972. A-21 U.S. Importers U.S. importers of boys' shirts, dressing gowns and robes, and pajamas include chiefly: (1) large chain department and mail-order stores, 1/ * * *; (2) firms which import for smaller chain department stores, * * *; (3) the import divisions of resident buying offices which import for member stores, * * *, for their budget departments; and (4) independent firms. U.S. Imports Shipments of cotton apparel to the United States have been subject to restraints of varying degree since 1957. During 1957-61, Japan voluntarily limited exports of cotton products to this country. Since October 1961, imports of cotton products from most countries have been subject to restraint under a short-term agreement (October 1961September 1962) and a Long-Term Arrangement Regarding International Trade in Cotton Textiles (LTA) (October 1962 to the present). The quantitative restraint levels under the LTA for categories of cotton apparel similar to the types produced by Jablow for selected Asian countries are shown in table 21. Shipments to the United States of most manmade-fiber apparel, including the articles made by Jablow, have also been subject to 1/ These stores also retail substantial quantities of domestically made shirts, dressing gowns and robes, and pajamas. A-22 quantitative limitations pursuant to bilateral agreements, some of which were signed in late 1971 and others later, between the United States and Japan, Taiwan, the Republic of Korea, Hong Kong, Malaysia, and Macao (Portugal). The quantitative restraint levels for categories of manmade-fiber apparel similar to the types produced by Jablow are shown in table 22. According to importers, the LTA on cotton apparel and the U.S. bilateral agreements on manmade-fiber apparel have provided the impetus for a recent shift in U.S. imports from boys' wear to higher priced men's wear. Whereas the unit volume of U.S. imports for a specified period is subject to restraint, the dollar value is not. The U.S. restraints on apparel coupled with the recent devaluations of the U.S. dollar have caused several retail chains--* * *--to consider importing boys' wear from countries not subject to U.S. quantitative controls and with extremely low labor costs. Boys' shirts U.S. imports of boys' dress and sport shirts of woven fabrics were less than 1 million dozen each year from 1947 through 1961 and reached 1 million dozen for the first time in 1962. Most of these shirts were of cotton (table 2). Thereafter, imports increased from 1.4 million dozen in 1965 to about 3.7 million dozen in 1970 and 1971; they were 3.0 million dozen in 1972 (table 12). The ratio of imports to consumption increased from 15 percent in 1965 to 43 percent in 1971, then declined to 40 percent in 1972. A-23 Imports of boys' dress shirts of woven fabrics consistently increased from about 0.2 million dozen in 1965 to 2.1 million dozen in 1971, then declined to 1.6 million dozen in 1972. The ratio of imports to consumption increased from 10 percent in 1965 to 65 percent in 1971, then decreased to 61 percent in 1972. Imports of boys' sport shirts of woven fabrics increased from 1.2 million dozen in 1965 to 2.4 million dozen in 1968, then decreased thereafter to 1.4 million dozen in 1972. The ratio of imports to consumption increased from 16 percent in 1965 to 34 percent in 1968, then declined to 29 percent in 1972. U.S. imports of boys' dress shirts of woven cotton fabrics increased from about 152,000 dozen in 1965 to 356,000 dozen in 1968, decreased to 295,000 dozen in 1970, then increased to 372,000 dozen in 1972 (table 23). Imports of boys' dress shirts of woven fabrics of manmade fibers increased from 27,000 dozen in 1965 to 1.8 million dozen in 1971; they were 1.2 million dozen in 1972. Imports of boys' shirts of woven cotton fabrics decreased irregularly from 1.1 million dozen in 1965 to 0.7 million dozen in 1972. Imports of boys' sport shirts of woven fabrics of manmade fibers increased from about 0.1 million dozen in 1965 to 1.0 million dozen in 1970 and 1971, then declined sharply to 0.7 million dozen in 1972. Boys' dress shirts of woven fabrics have been imported mainly from Hong Kong, the Republic of Korea, Taiwan, and Japan. Imports of A-2 boys' dress shirts from Hong Kong and the Republic of Korea accounted for approximately 75 percent of the total quantity of imports in 1972. Average unit values on a f.o.b. basis indicate that boys' dress shirts from the Republic of Korea and Taiwan are lower priced than those from Hong Kong and Japan (table 24). Hong Kong, Japan, the Republic of Korea, and Taiwan were the principal suppliers of boys sport shirts of woven fabrics in the 1970-72 period, accounting for more than 85 percent of the total quantity in each year. Based on average f.o.b. unit values of imports from the four above-mentioned countries, imports of sport shirts of woven fabrics from Taiwan were the lowest priced, and those from Hong Kong were the highest priced (table 25). U.S. imports of boys' knit shirts increased erratically from 0.9 million dozen in 1965 to 1.7 million dozen in 1972, and the ratio of imports to consumption increased erratically from 12 percent in 1965 to 25 percent in 1972 (table 13). Imports of boys' knit shirts of cotton increased from 422 thousand dozen in 1965 to 595 thousand dozen in 1966; imports fluctuated in the following years, 1968-72, and were 477 thousand dozen in 1972 (table 26). Imports of knit shirts of, manmade fibers increased from 0.4 million dozen in 1965 to 1.2 million dozen in 1972. dressi ng Annual imports of boys' dressing gowns and robes Of all woven fabrics increased from 13,000 dozen in 1965 to a high of 26,000 dozen AT-25 in 1971, then declined to 22,000 dozen in 1972 (table 14). The ratio of imports to consumption increased from 8 percent in 1965 to 13 percent in 1972. U.S. imports of boys' dressing gowns and robes of woven cotton fabrics rose from 10,000 dozen in 1965 and 1966 to 19,000 dozen in 1969, then leveled off at 18,000 dozen in each of the years 1970-12 (table 27). Boys' dressing gowns and robes of woven cotton fabrics consisted mostly of articles having a foreign unit value not over $2.50 each (table 7). Annual imports of boys' dressing gowns and robes of woven fabrics of manmade fibers increased erratically from 2,000 dozen in 1965 and 1966 to 7,000 dozen in 1971, then declined to 3,000 dozen in 1972. The principal sources of boys' woven dressing gowns and robes in 1971 and 1972 were the Republic of Korea, Japan, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. Annual imports of knit dressing gowns and robes are negligible. Boys' pajamas Total U.S. imports of boys' woven pajamas increased irregularly from 116,000 dozen in 1965 to 277,000 dozen in 1972, and the ratio of imports to consumption increased from 8 percent in 1965 to 22 percent in 1972 (table 15). Imports of boys' pajamas of woven cotton fabrics increased from 114,000 dozen in 1965 to 240,000 dozen in 1972 (table 28) and consisted mostly of pajamas valued not over $1.50 per suit (table 10). Imports of boys' pajamas of woven manmade fiber fabrics increased substantially from 2,000 dozen in 1965 to 83,000 dozen in A-26 1971, then decreased sharply to 37,000 dozen in 1972. The principal source of boys' woven pajamas in 1971 and 1972 was Hong Kong. Annual imports of boys' knit pajamas increased from a low of 6,000 dozen in 1966 to 17,000 dozen in 1970, then declined to 9,000 dozen in 1972 (table 16). The ratio of imports to consumption increased from 2 percent in 1966 and 1967 to about 5 percent in each year 1970-72. The principal source of knit pajamas in 1971 and 1972 was Romania, however, the above-mentioned imports include only imports dutiable under column 1 rates in the TSUS. U.S. imports from Romania are dutiable under the higher rates shown in column 2 of the TSUS. The rates shown in column 1 are current trade-agreement rates of duty, while those in column 2 are the statutory rates applicable to Communist dominated or controlled countries. U.S. Exports Annual U.S. exports of boys' dress and sport shirts of woven fabrics increased from 84,000 dozen in 1965 to 113,000 dozen in 1966 and 1967, decreased to a low of 70,000 dozen in 1970, then increased to 106,000 dozen in 1972 (table 12). Exports were less than 3 percent of production in each year 1965-72. U.S. exports of boys' shirts of knit fabrics declined irregularly from 54,000 dozen in 1965 to 33,000 dozen in 1972 (table 13). U.S. exports of boys' dressing gowns, robes, and,pa4amas have been small during the period 1965-72 (tables 14-16). A- 27 Firm and Plant Information Company history, plant, and equipment I. Jablow & Co., Inc., Philadelphia, Pa., was founded in 1922 by Isadore Jablow and Samuel Levinson as a partnership for the purpose of manufacturing boys' blouses. On February 1, 1946, the company was incorporated in Delaware as a manufacturer of boys' dress and sport shirts and pajamas. The company is still owned by members of the immediate family, but is being liquidated. After moving to several locations in the Philadelphia area, the company settled on the top floor of a warehouse where they have remained since 1940. Jablow has a sales office located in New York City, which is also operated by the immediate family. Products The principal items of production were woven and knit boys' dress and sport shirts, ranging in size from 3 to 20. Jablow also produced boys' woven robes and pajamas. The shirts were made predominantly from a 50/50 blend of cotton and manmade-fiber fabric. * * * * * * • • A-28 Unemployment The following table gives unemployment rates for the Philadelphia area, the State of Pennsylvania, and the United States. Rate of unemployment for the civilian work force (Percent) Location • February : March Annual : February : March ' 1972 ' 1972 1/' 1972 ' 1973 2/ ' 1973 • • • Philadelphia area----: State of : Pennsylvania United States : 6.0 : 6.0 : 6.4 : 5.9 • 5.9 • 5.3 : . . . 5.7 • 6.1 : . 5.3 : 5.6 : : 4.8 : 5.6 : 1/ One year prior to Jablow's announcement of closing. 2/ Last full month prior to Jablow's announcement of closing. Source: Pennsylvania Employment Service. 5.3 4.5 5.2 A-29 APPENDIX A STATISTICAL TABLES A-30 Table 1.--U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' shirts, not knit LI vided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions t jan. TSUS item No. GATT concession Abbreviated description Rate 380.00 1/ : Boys' lace or net, and/ : or ornamented shirts, of cotton. 382.00 2/ : Infants' 3/ lace or net, : and/or ornamented shirts, of cotton. 380.04 1/ : Boys' lace or net, and/ : or ornamented shirts, of manmade fibers. 382.04 2/ : Infants' 3/ lace or net, : and/or ornamented shirts, or manmade : fibers. 380.27 : Boys' shirts, not orna: mented, of cotton. 380.84 382.81 382.33 1930 rate : Boys' shirts, not ornamented, of manmade fibers. • : Infants' 3/ shirts, not ornamented, of manmade : fibers. : Infants' 3/ shirts, not : ornamented, of cotton. : 90% ad val. : : 90% ad val. • : 90% ad val. : : 90% ad val. • : 45% ad val. : : : : : : : : : : 60% ad val. 45% ad val. 42.5% ad val. 41% ad val. 39% ad val. 38% ad val. 36% ad val. 35% ad val. Same as for item 380.00. 60% ad val. : 45% ad val. : 42.5% ad val. : Same as for : item 380.04. • Effective date : Jan. 1, June 6, : June 30, Jan, 1, Jan. Jan. 1, Jan. 1, : Jan. 1, 170 1971 1972 - : Jan. 1, 1948 : June 6, 1951 : June 30, 1958 • : : : : : : : 45¢ per lb. + : : 65% ad val. : : : • : : 45¢ per lb. + : : 65% ad val. : : 37.5% ad val. : : : : : : : 25% ad val. 24% ad val. 23% ad val. 22.5% ad val. 21.5% ad val. 21% ad val. 27.5¢ per lb. + 35% ad val. 25* per lb. + 32.5% ad val. 25¢ per lb. + 27.5% ad val. Same as for item 380.84. : : : : : : : : : : : : 20% ad val. 19% ad val. 18.5% ad val. 17.5% ad val. 17% ad val. 16.5% ad val. : : : : : : Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, June 6, 1951 1948 196 8 1969 1970 1971 1972 1948 June 30, 1958 : Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1/ Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 380.03. 2/ Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 382.03. 3/ Infants are defined in the TSUSA as children, regardless of their sex, up to and including 6 years of age. 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IMI C/) Z S.4 A- 3 3 Table 4.--U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' shirts, knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions to Jan. 1, 1972 TSUS item No. GATT concession 1930 rate ; Abbreviated description ; Rate : Boys' shirts: Lace or net, and/or 380.00 1/ : ornamented, of cotton. : 90% ad val. : : 60% ad val. : 45% ad val. • • : : : : • • • • 380.04 1/ : • 380.06 : 36% ad val. : 35% ad val. Lace or net, and/or ornamented, of manmade fibers. : 90% ad val. : 60% ad val. : 45% ad val. Not ornamented, of cotton. : 45% ad val. : 42.5% ad val. • • • • • • • : Not ornamented, of manmade fibers. : Infants' 2/ shirts: Lace or net, and/or 382.00 3/ : ornamented, of • cotton. • • : 90% ad val. • • • • • 382.06 382.78 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • : : : : 35% 25% 24% 23% ad ad ad ad val. val. val. val. 22.5% ad val. : 21.5% ad val. : 21% ad val. 1, 1948 June 6, 1951 June 30, 1958 Jan. 1, 1968 Jan. 1, 1969 Jan. 1, 1970 Jan. 1, 1971 Jan. 1, 1972 : Jan. : : : : : : : : Jan. 1, 1948 : June 6, 1951 : June 30, 1958 : : : : : : : Jan. Sept. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. 27.5¢ per lb. +: Jan. : 45¢ per lb. + : 65% ad val. : 35% ad val. : 25¢ per lb. + : June : 32.5% ad val. : • • • • • • • • • • 382.04 3/ : 42.5% ad val. 41% ad val. 39% ad val. 38% ad val. • • • 380.81 ! Effective date • 1, 10, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1948 1955 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1, 1948 6, 1951 • • • • : : : : : : : : 60% ad val. 45% ad val. 42.5% ad val. 41% ad val. 39% ad val. 38% ad val. 36% ad val. 35% ad val. : : : : : : : : Jan. 1, 1948 June 6, 1951 June 30, 1958 Jan. 1, 1968 Jan. 1, 1969 Jan. 1, 1970 Jan. 1, 1971 Jan. 1, 1972 Lace or net, and/or ornamented, of manmade fibers. : 90% ad val. : 60% ad val. : 45% ad val. : 42.5% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1948 : June 6, 1951 : June 30; 1958 Not ornamented, of cotton. : 45% ad val. : 35% ad val. : 25% ad val. : 24% ad val. 23% ad val. : 22.5% ad val. : 21.5% ad val. : 21% ad val. : : : : : : : • • • • • • • • Not ornamented, of manmade fibers. Jan. 1, Sept.10, Jan. 1, Jan. 1, Jan. 1, Jan. 1, Jan. 1, : 45¢ per lb. + : 27.5¢ per lb. +: Jan. : : 65% ad val. : 35% ad val. • : 25¢ per lb. + : June • • : 32.5% ad val. : • 1948 1955 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1, 1948 6, 1951 1/ Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 380.03. 2/ Infants are defined in the TSUSA as children, regardless of-their sex, up to and including 6 years of age. 3/ Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 382.03. Note.--Items of cotton were exempt from the 10-percent surcharge effective Aug. 16 through Dec. 19, 1971, but items of manmade fibers were not exempt. ▪ ▪▪ • 4 A- 34 N VD TrID Ch 00 N MD f■ et 00 VD 0) et som\o ,..4c.4 Ln‘r) et • •0 U) ■ 0 E 0 tr) 0 N CO CON •cl• re3 01 01 N 0 0 0 o •-• e4 At p• A *4 ,4 N N •-■ V) VD N N 00 Ch ,4 N IN IN IN I 0 el •• • • • • • • • • • • • . • • • • • • . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • O fa. 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I r4 b0 r4 Cd at) I cc) 0 0 0 ^ .--t 0) 44-1 I O cd c.) 4-) TS 0 ••-1 A N O cc) Ch 4-4 4-1 0 .4-4 O PI N CD 0 Ch N) O N 00 Ul Cc) 170 et 1.4 NI et Ch .4O et un N V0 Ch et C- m0 00 ■•••I 0 O 0 Cr •IJ .6) N .0 g , 4-4 ▪ g 4) U) N 0 4.) • F+ • O 4) 0 0 .0 Ln r•I Ca • '1 g --... ---. ....4 IN Ire) I in 0 t») Ca 4, E. ...0 4) C.) u) .-I •• ■ C0 4-1 0 0 00 r4 1.11 01 0 ... 4-4 .M .M 4-) to 4) ca a. ci 0 a) 00 Z •-4 ■••1 1..4 .1•1 g .4-4 0 O al ..g 4-4 -0 0 4) N V") et 10 N 00 01 0 •-I V) M VD vD VD 110 10 st) 10 10 01 01 01 CT 01 01 01 O1 01 01 0 1 C1 0) al 0) 0) Ch 0) mi U) 0 • = 4-) 0 E g 0 .4-4 4..4 .0 •• 1 iv O 0 4) 4-) 0 I • U)Z A-35 Table 6.--U .S. rates of duty applicable to boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions, except as indicated, to Jan. 1 , 1972 • TSUS item • Brief description • GATT concession : Effective Rate • date 1930 rate • 380.00 1/ 380.02 1/ : Boys' dressinggowns: • and robes: • • Lace or net, and/ : 90% ad val. : 60% ad val. or ornamented, : : 45% ad val. of cotton. : 42.5% ad val. : 41% ad val. : 39% ad val. : 38% ad val. • : 36% ad val. : 35% ad val. : • Jan. 1, 1948 June 6, 1951 June 30, 1958 Jan. 1, 1968 Jan. 1, 1969 Jan. 1, 1970 Jan. 1, 1971 Jan. 1, 1972 Lace or net, and/ : 90% ad val. : 60% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1948 or ornamented, : : 45% ad val. : June 1, 1951 of wool. • : 42.5% ad val. : June 30, 1958 • • 380.04 1/ : •. • • Lace or net, and/ or ornamented, of manmade fibers. 380.15 : : •. .• • Not ornamented, valued not over $2.50 each, of cotton. : 37.5% : ad val. : Not ornamented, valued over $2.50 each, of cotton. : 37.5% ad val. 380.18 : : : : : : : : : 90% ad val. : 60% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1948 : : 45% ad val. : June 6, 1951 •. : 42.5% ad val. : June 30, 1958 • .• •. : : : : : : 20% ad val. 19% ad val. 18.5% ad val. 17.5% ad val. 17.0% ad val. 16.5% ad val. : 20% ad val. 2/ : 10% ad vaT. : 9.5% ad val. : 9.0% ad val. : 8.5% ad val. : 8.0% ad val. : : : : : : Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, : : : : : : : Jan. 1, 1939 Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1948 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1948 1968 1969 1970 1971 • 380.63 : Not ornamented, valued not over $4 per pound, of wool. See footnotes at end of table. • : 33¢ per lb. : 33¢ per lb.+ : Jan. • + 45% : 30% : ad val : ad val 2/ : 1, 1939 A.-36 Table 6.--U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions, except as indicated, to Jan. 1, 1972.--Continued TSUS item 380.66 Brief description . : .. : . . • •. : : : Not ornamented, Valued over $4 per pound, of wool. • . 380.84 : : : : .• : •. : : : : • . •. : : : : . : •. : •. : .• : : Not ornamented, manmade fibers. •. : -. : : : 382.00 4/ • • • 1930 rate • • . : : : • . GATT concession Rate : Effective date : 25¢ per lb.+ : Jan. 1, 1948 : 25% ad val.: : 25¢ per lb.+ : June 30, 1956 : 23.5% : ad val. : : 25¢ per lb.+ : June 30, 1957 : 22.5% : : ad val. : 25¢ per lb.+ : June 30, 1958 21% ad val. : : •. 50¢ per lb. : 50¢ per lb. : Jan. 1, 1939 + 50% : + 30% : ad val. : ad val. 2/ : 37.5¢ per lb.: Jan. 1, 1948 : + 25% : ad val. : : 37.5¢ per lb.: June 30, 1956 + 23.5% •. : ad val. : : 37.5¢ per lb. : June 30, 1957 : + 22.5% : ad val. : : 37.5¢ per lb. : June 30, 1958 : + 21% •. •. ad val. : •. • 45* per lb. : 27.5¢ per lb.: Jan. 1, 1948 + 65% : + 35% •. ad val. : ad val. : : 25¢ per lb. : June 6, 1951 : + 32.5% •. : ad val. : : 25¢ per lb. : June 30, 1958 : +27.5% : : ad val. Infants' 3/dressing : : : gowns androbes: : •. • Lace or net, and/ : 90% ad val. : Same as for : or ornamented, : • . item 380.00 : : of cotton. : • See footnotes at end of table. ▪ ▪ A-37 Table 6.--U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions, except as indicated, to Jan. 1, 1972--Continued TSUS item GATT concession • • 382.02 4/ : 382.04 4/ : 382.15 382.18 Brief description ' 1930 rate Lace or net, and/ : 90% ad val. : Same as for : or ornamented, item380.02: of wool. • Lace or net, and/ : 90% ad val. : Same as for : or ornamented, : item380.04: • of manmade fibers. • Not ornamented, : 37.5% : Same as for : valued not ad val. : item 380.15 : over $2.50 each, of • cotton. Not ornamented, valued over $2.50 each, of cotton. 382.60 : 37.5% : ad val. : Same as for : : item380.18: • Not ornamented, : 33¢ per lb. : Same as for : valued not + 45% : item380.63: over $4 per : ad val. : pound, of wool. : • • 382.63 382.81 Effective date Rate Not ornamented, valued over $4 per pound, of wool. : • Not ornamented, of manmade fibers. • • : 50¢ per lb. : Same as for : : *,50% • item 380.66 : ad val. : • : 45¢ per lb. : Same as for : + 65% : item380.84: ad val. • • 1/ Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 380.03. 27 Trade agreement with the United Kingdom. 3/ Infants are defined in the TSUSA as children, regardless of their sex, up to and including & years of age. 4/ Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 382.03. Note.--Items of cotton were exempt from the 10-percent surcharge effective Aug. 16 through Dec. 19, 1971, but items of manmade fibers were not exempt. A-38 0.1 0 '8 H 0) **(V.f0s.:1 I s 11 CV I . 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N 0 IA CO ri CO 0 ‘ 0 H N 01.7 uN %.0 NCO CN 0 H N CO ....I. -I' in tr■ UN NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO ■cp v:1 C- t•- cON ON ON ON ON CT CT ON ON 01 ON ON ON ON ON ON ON ON ON ri rA ri rA ri ri ri ri ri ri r4 ri ri r4 rl ri rA r4 ri "...... " -..... --.... --... 0 HiCvlonl.-1- 1 co Table 8.--U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions to Jan. 1, 1972 TSUS item • • • Brief description .• 1930 rate .• GATT concession Rate : Effective date : Boy's dressing : gowns androbes:: : 90% ad val.: 60% ad val. : 380.00 1/ : Lace or net, 45% ad val. : and/or orna42.5%ad val. : •• mented, of 41% ad val. : cotton. : 39% ad val. : • : 38% ad val. : : 36% ad val. : : 35% ad val. : 380.06 : • : : Jan. June June Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. 1, 1948 6, 1951 30, 1958 1, 1968 1, 1969 1, 1970 1, 1971 1, 1972 Not ornamented, : 45% adval.: 35% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1948 : 25% ad val. : Sept. 10, 1955 : of ootton. : : 24% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1968 : : 23% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1969 : : 22.5% ad val.: Jan. 1, 1970 : 21.5% ad val.: Jan. 1, 1971 : : 21% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1972 : •. : Infants' 2/ • : dressing gow4S, : • •. and robes: : 90% adval.: Same as for : 382.00 3/ : Lace or net, and/or orna- : : , item 380.00 • mented, of : : cotton. . Not ornamented, : 45% ad val.: Same as for : 382.06 •. : . of cotton. : item 380.06 382.78 Not ornamented, : 45¢ per of manmade : lb + fibers. : 65% ad val. • • : 27.5 ¢ per : Jan. 1, 1948 : lb. + 35% : ad val. : 25¢ per lb.+ : June 6, 1951 : 32.5% dd val. •• 1/ T/ sex, 3/ Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 380.03. Infants are defined in the TSUSA as children, regardless of their up to and including 6 years of age. Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 382.03. Note:--Items of cotton were exempt from the 10-percent surcharge effective Aug. 16 through Dec. 19,1971, but items of manmade fibers were not exempt. • A-4o rates of duty applicable to boys' pajamas, not knit, of Table the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT =cessions, except as indicated, to Jan. 1, 1972 • TSUS ITEM ▪ Brief description •' 1930 rate • •• • : Boys'pajamas: 380.00 1/ : Lace or net, and/or orna: mented, of cotton. GATT concession : Effective Rate date :90% ad val.: 60% ad val. 45% ad val. 42.5% ad val. 41% ad val. 39% ad val. 38% ad val. 36% ad val. 35% ad val. •• • • 380.04 1/ : Lace or net, and/ : 90% ad val.: 60% ad val. or ornamented, : : 45% ad val. 42.5% ad val. of manmade fibers : : : : : : : : Jan. June June Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. 1, 1948 6, 1951 30, 1958 1, 1968 1, 1969 1, 1970 1, 1971 1, 1972 : Jan. 1, 1948 : June 6, 1951 : June 30, 1958 380.21 : Not ornamented, valued not : over $1.50 per suit, of : cotton. : 37.5% : 20% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1948 : ad val. : 19% ad val. : Zan.11, 1968 : 18.5% ad val.: Jan-1, 1969 : 17.5% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1970 • : 17.0% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1971 : 16.5% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1972 380.24 : Not ornamented, valued over : $1.50 per suit, of cot: : ton. : 37.5% : 20% ad val. 2/ : : ad val. : 10% ad val:- : : 9.5% ad val. : : : 9.0% ad val. : : 8.5% ad val. : : 8.0% ad val. : 380.84 : Not ornamented, of manmade fibers. : 45* per : 27.5* per lb. : Jan. 1, 1948 lb. + : 35% al val. : 65% ad : 25* per lb. + : June 6, 1951 val. : 32.5% ad : val. : 25$ per lb. +: June 30, 1958 : 27.5% ad : : val. : Infants' 3/ ▪ pajamas: Lace or net,and/: 90% ad val.. Same as for 382.00 3/ : item 380.00 : • or ornamented, : • of cotton'. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. Jan. 1, 1939 1, 1948 1, 1968 1, 1969 1, 1970 1, 1971 A-4i Table 9.--U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' pajamas, not knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions, except as indicated, to Jan. 1, 1972--Continued TSUS item • • : Brief description : 1930 rate : • • GATT concession Rate : Effective date 382.04 4/ : Lace or net, and/ :90% ad val.: Same as for : or ornamented, of: •• item 380.04: manmade fibers. : • • 382.21 : Not ornamented, : 37.5% : Same as for : item 380.21 • valued not over : ad val. : • $1.50 per suit, • • of cotton. • 382.24 382.81 1/ 2/ 3/ sex, 4/ : Not ornamented, • valued over • $1.50persuit, • of cotton. • : Not ornamented, of manmade : fibers. • • : 37.5% : Same as for : item 380.24 : : ad val. : : • : • : 45¢ per : Same as for : •. lb. + 65%: item 380.84: : ad val. : Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 380.03. Trade agreement with the United Kingdom. Infants are defined in the TSUSA as children, regardless of their up to and including 6 years of age. Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 382.03. Note.--Items of cotton were exempt from the 10-percent surcharge effective Aug. 16 through Dec. 19, 1971, but items of manmade fibers were not exempt. • ▪•• • ▪ ▪ A-42 Ch CD VD VD CD bn N N M MO C, Ch C4 NI CD Ul O 0 O 0 0. N IN IN IN IN IN CD N 4-) rq N N N N Department of Commerce. a) O E 0 U N N NI r•I VD CD N •V VI c.") ri N y a) 0 Iry Ifs) IN ININ IN I 1-4.0 11 0 •• •• •• 44 0 CC N Manmade fibe rs 4.4 HH O. O ,H 41.) 0) 0 14') O cn r. CO E 0 4-) a) $4 4-) 0 4-) un un On V1 NI VI VI VI bn NI VI VI NI VI VI NI 01 bh Vi . . . . et a0 VD NI CO 00 00 02 OD CO 00 CO CO CO 00 00 CO OD CO CO 00 et et NI NO VI VI VI NI VI NI be) tn NI N) NI M M O K'0 g ▪ O) 40 ■-■ 4.4 U > 0 S-t 9 0 0 •••I a) a. o cr al a) S-• a) • • •• •• •• •• •• tn cd CO 0 4-4 '0 0 1-4 1:$ 0•4 0. $a 0 0 a) 4) 4.) cd $.4 t.) N In 4.) 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Iv) lun I U S.4 0 U) A-43 Table 11.--U.S. rates of duty applicable to boys' pajamas, knit, of the types provided for in specified TSUS items, 1930 and GATT concessions to Jan. 1, 1972 GATT concession TSUS item Brief description 1930 rate Rate : Boys' pajamas: Lace or net, and/or : 90% ad val. 380.00 1---: ornamented, of : cotton. : 380.06 60% ad val. 45% ad val. 42.5% ad val. 41% ad val. 39% ad val. 38% ad val. 36% ad val. 35% ad val. 35% ad val. 25% ad val. 24% ad val. 23% ad val. 22.5% ad val. 21.5% ad val. 21% ad val. Not ornamented , of : 45% ad val. cotton. •• • • : Infants' 2/ pajamas: Lace or net, and/or 382.00 2/---: ornamented, of cotton. 382.04 Lace or net, and/or ornamented, of manmade fibers. Not ornamented, of : 382.06 cotton. Not ornamented, of : 382.78 manmade fibers. : •• •• 90% ad val. : Same as for item: 380.00 90% ad val. : : : : 45%0 Effective date Jan. 1, 1948 June 6, 1951 June 30, 1958 Jan. 1, 1968 Jan. 1, 1969 Jan. 1, 1970 Jan. 1, 1971 Jan. 1, 1972 Jan. 1, 1948 Sept. 10, 1955 Jan. 1, 1968 Jan. 1, 1969 Jan. 1, 1970 Jan. 1, 1971 Jan. 1, 1972 60% ad val. : Jan. 1, 1948 : June 6, 1951 45% ad val. 42.5% ad val. : June 30, 1958 Same as for item: 380.06 lb. + : 27.5¢ per lb. + : Jan. 1, 1948 : 65% ad val. : 35% ad val. : 250 per lb. + : June 6, 1951 32.5% ad val. : • J Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 380.03. 2/ Infants are defined in the TSUSA as children, regardless of their sex, up to and including 6 years of age. 2/ Prior to Jan. 1, 1968, this item was part of item 382.03. Note.--Items of cotton were exempt from the 10-percent surcharge effective August 16 through December 19, 1971, but items of manmade fibers were not exempt. A-44 Table 12.--Boys' shirts, not knit: U.S. production, imports for consumption, exports of domestic merchandise, and apparent consumption, by types, 1965-72 Apparent Type and year :Production 1/:Imports 2/: Exports . consumption 1,000 dozen : : 1,000 dozen : : Dress shirts: 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 : : : : : : : : 1,573 1,650 1,528 1,588 1,291 1,306 1,141 3/ 1,048 .• : : : : : : : : 179 331 760 1,085 1,389 1,892 2,089 1,594 Sport shirts: 1965 1966 1967---1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 : : : : : : : : 6,500 7,098 5,757 4,642 4,235 4,205 3,916 3/ 3,524 .• : : : : : : : : 1,241 1,569 1,821 2,396 2,014 1,825 1,600 1,414 : : : : : : : : : • : : : : : : : : : 8,073 8,748 7,285 6,230 5,526 5,511 5,057 3/ 4,572 : : : : : : : : : 1,420 1,900 2,581 3,481 3,403 3,717 3,689 3,008 : : : : : : : : : Total: 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 : : : : : : : : • 1,000 dozen : : 1,000 dozen Ratio of imports to :consumption : : Percent 28 32 28 22 19 12 12 13 •. : : : : : : : : 1,724 1,949 2,260 2,651 2,661 3,186 3,218 2,629 •. : : : : : : : : 10.4 17.0 33.6 40.9 52.2 59.4 64.9 60.6 56 81 85 74 56 58 63 93 •. : : : : : : : : 7,685 8,586 7,493 6,964 6,193 5,972 5,453 4,845 • : : : : : : : : 16.1 18.3 24.3 34.4 32.5 30.6 29.3 29.2 84 113 113 96 75 70 75 106 •. : : : : : : : : 9,409 10,535 9,753 9,615 8,854 9,158 8,671 7,474 .• : : : : : : : : 15.1 18.0 26.5 36.2 38.4 40.6 42.5 40.2 • 1/ Compiled from statistics of the National Cotton Council of America. 2/ Excludes shirts of silk and of vegetable fibers, except cotton, not separately reported. Includes small amounts of infants' shirts. 3/ Preliminary. Source: Partly estimated bythe U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics-of the U.S, Department of Commerce, except as noted. • imports and exports. A-45 exports o f domes t ic 00 C7 NI C4 00 CD VD CD • • • • • • • • UI V d co r- co Ul ▪ ▪ 0 4) g 4-) C1) ta. k cd Q. CA ri ri r ♦ r•4 ri CV VD CD VD VD Ul CD Cs) 01 CD CI Ch r■ .•w N 00 VD VD Ul C) o N 0 CV fq CD Ul f■ NI VD f■ Ch el Ul Ul VD C) 4-) 0 U) cd +.) P., O Cu ■-•4 O •,:t C.) 0 •r-1 C`) 4-) 01.1 1 .. .. .. te) I LII 0 No) 4-) 4-1 +4 V) O g P. 0 1-1 0 O 0 O N - 0 N O.2) •• 0 CD g Cd CD 4) 44 CD N o O Produc t ion 2/ • • cd .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ....1. t, 1.-. cq .1- f∎ v7 N1 u) .1. • NI cr .4. 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U 0cd I-• 0 • kr I En En O• A 48 - Table 16.--Boys' pajamas, knit: U.S. production, imports for consumption, exports of domestic merchandise, and apparent consumption, 1965-72 Year 19 65 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 'Produc-'• • • Apparent : Ratio of :Imports 2/:Exports 'tion 1/ 2/:consumption' imports to — • : :consum tion • 1,000 : 1,000 : 1,000 1,000 --L--2--2-dozen : dozen : dozen dozen : Percent •. : • : 247 : 253 : 3 : 9 : 3.6 : 367 : 6 : 3 : 370 : 1.6 : : : : 402 423 318 352 : : : : :3/ 206 : :V/ 174 : 7 15 14 17 : : : : 11 : 9 : 3 : 4 : 406 : 434 : 3 : 2 : 2 : 14 : 329 : 367 : 215 : 179 • 1.8 3.5 4.3 4.6 5.1 5.0 • 1/ Compiled from statistics of the National Cotton Council of America. 2/ Partly estimated; excludes imports from Communist dominated or controlled countries. 3/ Revised. T/ Preliminary. Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce, except as noted. A- 149 CI N. 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(-1 A g 4•) g C) V) to 0 4-) U co 4-) s4 et id rC u) 0 rn U N'Dtn 00 ul 00 NI et 00 No CD CV 0 •d- 00 0 cd cd Z an U) 3 et • • • • • • • •• •• '121 0 4) 0 0 0 cd 0 g es) CV CV ■I0 szi• et 00 o 1-4 • g 0 00 00 CV '0 Ln 00 1-- Cv 0 $4 r, oo •• • • • • '0 r1cD -4 0) CV ee se 4 g 0 •H 4-) 4-) i 0 • • • • • • • • • • • • 0 44 0 00 '0'.0 %.0 00 N. (V 00 CV 0 • • • • • • u E r- I tr) 11) N Type and fiber Table 17. - - Boys ' shirts, not kn it: U. S. p roduction, by types andfibers, 1965- 72 et et Csi 00 vl CV C, un VI CI Ch 4" eq et r1 CD 44- Ln 00 t.e) Ln 00 CV et +.) $4 4-4 0 .0 0 .-1 1 .0 cr) 0 cd og t-1 0 0 cd U 3 CI) E •H ri g 1-4 1-1 I 0 0 • ci) co A.r.50 Table 18.--Boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not knit: U.S. production, by fibers, 1965-72 (In thousands of dozens) :Mamm al CottonVool 1/:fibers ade :Tot Year 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 : : : : 86 83 148 162 151 : : : : : 53 : 52 : 19 7 11 9 : : : : 6 6 9 9 • : : : : 145 141 176 178 : 12 : 174 : 150 : 26 : 185 : 149 : 2/ : 28 : 177 2/ : : 126 : 24 : 150 : . . lj Includes small quantities of fibers other than cotton, wool, or manmade fibers. 2/ Negligible. 1970 1971 1972 Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce and statistics of the National Cotton Council of America. A-51 Table 19.--Boys' pajamas, not knit: U.S. production, by fibers, 1965-72 (In thousands of dozens) Manmrs ade: : Total Cotton: Wool 1/ — ::ffbe Year 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 : : : : 763 : 583 : 906 : 1,025 : 930 : 839 : 852 : 821: 479 365 119 45 64 52 2/ 2/ : : : • : : : : 52 39 54 56 75 145 162 158 : : : : : : : : 1,294 987 1,079 1,126 1,069 1,036 1,014 985 / Includes small quantities of fibers other than cotton, wool, or manmade fibers. Negligible. Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce and statistics of the National Cotton Council of America. A-52 Table 20.--Boys' pajamas, knit: U.S. production, by fibers, 1965-72 In thousands of dozens) • • 'Cotton:Wool 1/ :Mammade: Total Year . fibers: 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 : 146 : : 217 : 338 : : 385 277 285 173 : 146 • : : : : : 91 136 44 17 19 18 : - : - • : : 10 14 : 20 21 22 49 : 33 28 : : : : : : : : : : : 247 367 402 423 318 352 206 174 • 1/ Includes small quantities of fibers other than cotton, wool, or manmade fibers. Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce and published statistics of the National Cotton Council of America. A-5 3 bila te ra l 141 CT '0 CO 0 IA 0 1 CO .1 N > . n •.-1 n-4 4, MEV SO EA'`..... U • r.0 ••• 'cr MI 0 0 03 4. to e-. 4. .-.3 g LL) -4 Afe ..... •erl ........ .M y 0 •d' en O 1.r) I cct C1) 3 ..-1 CO 1-• .* 0) > Ln 4, N4 N U co 00 Cre • -■ ..4 al 4.4 eer N 44 al .-4 4 i.--) tz) ••-1 0 OO 1.1 -et ........ 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'-'41 •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• 40 40 O Ln N. r4 imports for consumpt ion, by types andfibers, 1965- 72 O et N el Ch r.- es) ch • 0 Tariff Commiss ion, based on offic ia l s tat ist ics o fthe 00 et LA Ch CD VI .VD CD • Cu 4-) ul 00 et V) VD 00 NI 1-4 N1 w •'■ t•-• 10 H4 0 ,4 0 •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• • Type and fibe r Table 2 3. -- Boys ' •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• • • •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• •• in V)• a) JD •rl 44 • a) • 41 .1-1 44 V) O O .0 .0 •ri a) U) 44 44 U) 44 t g O Cd 4-) .--1 0 'Tg 48 8 g 4-) C.,= O E.-• v3 8 cd 4-) 0 t trl g CDOX k CI •HI 0 g 0 0) 'ID 4 4-) ••-t Cd0 44 t3 8 g 4.) ..-4 E .--1 Cd 4.1 0 0 OC.) = = 0. C/) 0Octi 4.) C-) 0 E.•, 9-I S CI) in a) g 1:1 0 Cd 4.) 1-1 •4 ..g g in 0 4-) 0 CA V) g in OETI OU= k 0 14 0 0 OC.), 04 CI) = ,..o A.-56 Table 24.--Boys' dress shirts, not ornamented, not knit: 1/ U.S. imports for consumption, by principal sources, 1970-72 1970 Source ; 1971 : 1972 Quantity (1,000 dozen) • Hong Kong Republic of Korea Taiwan Japan Malaysia All other Total : : : : Hong Kong Republic of Korea Taiwan Japan Malaysia All other Total : : : : : Hong Kong Republic of KoreaTaiwan Japan Malaysia All other Average : 682 646 : 663 : 843 243 : 276 263 : 182 43 : 39 46 15 : 1,873 : 2,068 Value (1,000 5,597 : 6,600 4,308 : 5,870 1,905 : 2,408 2,087 : 1,844 345 340 : 430 182 : : 14,419 : 17,497 • Unit value (per : : : : : : 8.66 6.50 7.84 7.94 7.90 12.13 7.70 • : : : : : : : 9.68 6.96 8.72 10.13 8.84 9.34 8.46 587 : 592 : : 205 : 99 40 : : 59 : 1,582 dollars) : : : : : : : 5,918 4,478 1,883 1,165 371 567 14,382 dozen) : : : : : : : 10.08 7.56 9.19 11.77 9.27 9.61 9.09 1/ Includes small amounts of infants' shirts. Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce. A-57 Table 25.--Boys' sport shirts, not ornamented, not knit: 1/ U.S. imports for consumption, by principal sources, 1970-72 1970 : 1971 : 1972 Source Quantity (1,000 dozen) 444 491 : 266 467 : 335 304 : 370 : 350 30 15 : 158 159 : 1,806 : 1,583 Value (1,000 421 : 286 : 259 : 254 : 33 : 144 : 1,397 : dollars) Hong Kong Japan Republic of Korea Taiwan Mexico All other Total : : : : : : : Hong Kong Japan Republic of Korea Taiwan Mexico All other Total : : : : : : : Hong Kong Japan Republic of Korea Taiwan Mexico All other Average 9.00 : : 8.22 : 8.82 : 8.20 : I 8.84 : : 8.71 : 7.89 : 7.29 : : : 12.73 : 16.30 : 8.68 : : 8.18 : 8.80 : 8.14 : : 4,186 4,034 : 3,994 : 2,776 3,829 : 2,347 : 2,537 2,647 : 2,961 : 2,358 2,699 : 2,760 : 564 191 : 489 : 1,434 1,300 : 1,372 : 13,855 14,700 : 13,923 : Unit value (per dozen) • 9.94 9.71 9.80 9.28 17.09 9.96 9.92 1/ Includes small amounts of infants' shirts. Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce. A.-58 Table 26.--Boys' knit shirts 1/: U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, 1965-72 Fiber . . . ' 1965 • 1966 • 1967 • 1968 ' 1969 • 1970 ' 1971 ' 1972 Quantity (1,000 dozen) Cotton Wool Manmade fibers 2/ Total : • : 595 : 15 : 607 : 1,217 • : : : : • : : : : • 355 : 312 : 40 : 41 : 630 : 683 : 982 1,079 : 313 : 24 : 739 : 1,076 : 477 : 17 : 1,242 : 1,736 : 3,107 : 6,409 : 2,295 : 2,378 : 2,670 : 2,564 : 2,886 : 727 : 720 : 1,006 : 1,571 : 1,648 : 1,039 : 949 : 4,290 : 4,695 : 4,007 : 4,541 : 5,255 : 4,798 : 5,773 : 8,124 : 11,824 : 7,308 : 8,490 : 9,573 : 8,401 : 9,608 : 4,830 : 682 :15,025 :20,537 : : 422 16 439 877 306 23 626 955 311 26 626 963 Value (1,000 dollars) Cotton Wool Manmade fibers 2/ Total Average unit value (per dozen) Cotton Wool Manmade fibers 2/ Average : : : : 7.36 : 10.77 : 7.50 : 7.62 : 7.52 : 8.24 45.43 : 48.00 : 43.74 :.39.27 : 40.20 : 39.96 9.77 : 7.73 : 6.40 : 7.21 : 7.69 : 7.66 9.26 : 9.72 : 7.65 : 8.65 : 8.87 : 8.72 : 9.22 : 10.13 : 39.54 : 40.12 : 7.81 : 12.10 : 8.93 : 11.83 1/ Includes dress and sport shirts, not separately reported, but excludes T-shirts and sweat shirts, except as indicated in footnote 2. 2/ Includes sweat shirts, not separately reported. Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce. A-59 Table 27.--Boys' dressing gowns, including bathrobes and beach robes, not knit: U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, 1965-72 (In thousands of dozens) Year 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 Mamna .Cotton.Wool 1/ : ffb e rs: Total : : : : : : : : 10 : 10 13 17 19 18 18 18 : : : : : : : 1 2 2 2 ! 2 : 1 : 1 3 : 5 3 7 3 1 2 1 1 13 i1 16 21 : 25 23 26 : 22 : : Includes small quantities of fibers other than cotton, wool, or manmade fibers. Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce. A-6 0 Table 28.--Boys' pajamas, not knit: U.S. imports for consumption, by fibers, 1965-72 (In thousands of dozens) Year 'Cotton • 1965 1966 19 67 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 : :Manmade: fibers: • 114 : 149 : 172 186 196 192 182 240 : : : : : : Tot 2 : 5 9 33 77 71 83 37 : : : : : : : Source: Partly estimated by the U.S. Tariff Commission, based on official statistics of the U.S. Department of Commerce. el 116 154 181 219 273 263 265 277
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