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Matrix Sourcing
Material Quality Manual
This manual is provided to understand Fabric inspection process and
requirements to deliver the highest possible quality as well as report all
test results as per Customer requirements.
Although this manual describes Matrix Sourcing quality requirements
and we also expects its partner suppliers to develop a positive culture of
quality. This culture must begin with management commitment to
prevention-based and continuous improvement- based quality systems
including:

Allocating appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are
effective

Encouraging active participation of all workers in improvement
efforts

Ensuring that processes are stable, capable, and centered
through the application of statistical data analysis techniques

Documenting systems, processes, procedures,
necessary to maintain effective operations
etc.
as
Quality Mission Statement
“Create consumer loyalty and lead brand integrity through an integrated
Quality Strategy.”
Matrix Sourcing Quality philosophy is based on the following principles:

Establish clear, consumer-focused requirements

Plan for Defect-Free performance

Quality happens within every Process (each supplier, department, &
individual owns quality)

Ensure the Process is capable of meeting the Customer requirements

Control the Process

Continually reduce Variation and factory Defective Rate
Prevention System Definitions:
Design Qualification
Systems and procedures where Matrix’s product engineering team works with
customer design/development groups to help identify and prevent failure modes in
product design.
Supplier Qualification
Process of evaluating and approving suppliers to ensure they are capable of
achieving Matrix Sourcing requirements, and include a review of suppliers’ quality
manufacturing and management systems against our requirements and
world-class benchmarks.
Materials Qualification
Process of testing, evaluating and approving raw material to ensure that the
manufacturing process is capable of producing material that always meets World
class customer specifications
Product Qualification
Process of evaluating and approving finished goods to ensure that the
manufacturing process is capable of producing product that always meet
specifications.
Metrics & Strategic Reporting
Process of collecting vendor product quality performance data to track
performance and set priorities for corrective action.
Greige Fabric Quality Requirements
Introduction:
We will provide a guideline to the factory for evaluating, grading and separating the
incoming quality of fabric to be used for Matrix Sourcing Clients. This is important
for the vendors to note on what are the expectations for incoming fabric quality.
This process also assists factories in detecting defects and preventing
substandard fabric. We have described widely recognized inspection procedure
as a training framework for inspectors. Our ultimate goal is to promote
communication and align procedures between the factory and the vendor to
resolve quality problems.
Inspection Requirements
Area
The inspection area should be:

Open, clean and dry

Well lit
Equipment

Inspection Frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive, a yard (or
meter) counter, and an undercarriage light to see through the construction and an
overhead light to inspect the face of the fabric.

Inspection Speed: The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards per minute (27
meters per minute) and should have both forward and reverse controls.

Viewing Distance: The inspection should be performed from an observation distance of 2
to 4 feet (60 to 120 centimeters) so as to get full vision of the fabric width.

Lighting: Overhead Customer required lighting is recommended for the inspection. The
surface illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 lux (100 foot candles).
Variable speed
Undercarriage lighting with adjustable
Yard / Meter
Calibration and Maintenance

Inspection frame should be included in vendor’s periodic maintenance plan.

All components of equipment which can output a quantifiably value needs to be
calibrated annually e.g. Speed drive/ Counter/ Weight (if scales available on
frame)
Light Box and Color Room
Each Vendor should have an International light box equipped with:
Light Source
Primary
Source
Secondary
Source
Tertiary
Source
Light Type
Light D 65 (6500K) Average North
Sky Daylight
Light
CWF (4150K)
Light
A (2856 K) Tungsten
The Light box must be in a closed conditioned room with no interference from outside light
and it must be calibrated from time to time as recommended by its manufacturer. The
walls of the room should be painted neutral gray.
Light box in a conditioned room,
Note: Suggested Light Box brands are:

Verivide CAC

MacBeth Judge II

MacBeth Spectra light III

Datacolor TruVue
or protected area with black curtains.
Tools






Measuring Tape
Pick Glass
Scissors
Defect Stickers / Tags
Selvedge Defect Flags
Inspection Report Forms
Steel or reinforced fiberglass 1/4” tape
measure (cloth not recommended)
Scissors
Defect stickers
Approved Item Swatch
The vendor is required to use the Matrix Sourcing approved Fabric swatch in
development stage as a quality reference sample for hand-feel/ Color and aesthetics
verifications in bulk production.
This approved item swatch must be properly stored for use in quality comparison. Keep a
clean sample folder with appropriate information such as vendor name, item number,
color name, date approved, Approved test report, Production SPEC, and any other
relevant information.
Inspection Procedure / Execution
Matrix Sourcing expects the vendor to inspect 100% of all outgoing shipments, identify,
label and records defects and ship only first quality materials.
The vendor should be familiar with Matrix Sourcing inspection procedures and standards
to ensure that vendor’s internal inspection is capable of at least meeting or better
exceeding Matrix Sourcing expectations.
Color and Aesthetics
Cut a head-middle-end sample across the width of the fabric, preferably about 2 yards
inside of each dye-lot. This sample will be used for color and aesthetic verification to
ensure lot to lot, head to end fabric consistency.
Color Evaluation
1. Color Standard: Check the head-middle-end sample in the light box against the
Customer color standard and/or Matrix Sourcing approved lab-dip under primary &
secondary light source. This process should be done once for each color
inspected.
2. Shading within the roll: Check for shading at the beginning, in the middle and at
the end of each roll inspected, using the head-middle-end sample for comparison.

Side to center

Side to side

End to end
3. Color Continuity Card: Check for color consistency between the dye-lots. Cut a
small sample (about 2 x 2 inches or 5 x 5 centimeters) from the left side, the center
and the right side of the head-middle-end sample of each inspected dye-lot and
attach to the color continuity card. Ensure that cards are labeled. Check the
samples against the Customer color standard &/or Matrix Sourcing approved
lab-dip. Note any significant variation of shade from roll to roll.
Aesthetics Evaluation
Inspect overall hand-feel and appearance against customer approved item swatch in
development stage for cleanliness, texture, recovery, drape, resilience, wrinkling, etc.
If the aesthetics does not match the sample, Vendor will reprocess that yards or will
submit to Matrix/ Customer for approval.
It is the vendor’s responsibility to ensure that the reference sample provided to the factory
is the original. This sample will be used by the factory for, hand-feel and aesthetics
verification..
The reference Sample size is 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 centimeters) cut out from the
approved batch. This reference sample must be properly stored for use in quality
comparison. Keep a clean sample folder with appropriate information such as vendor
name, item number, color name/code, date, batch number, and any other relevant
information.
Fabric Reference Sample
Visual Inspection
Once the color and aesthetics have been checked and approved, begin the visual
inspection for defects. Defects which are not desirable and are clearly detectable on the
inspection frame will be assigned points as shown in the Four Point Table. The Four Point
system will be applied to all fabrics, i.e. woven, circular knit and warp knit.
Always inspect the side which will be used as the face in the finished garment. Mount the roll on
the inspection frame with the face side up.
Fabric Width
Measure the fabric width at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of every roll. If a
variation in fabric width is found, the vendor will contact Matrix Sourcing to determine if
the fabric is usable and if a replacement is necessary. At this point, the inspector should
also check the condition of the selvedges. The selvedges should as per customer
requirement, lay flat, be free of tension, and should not have a tendency to curl.
Roll Length
Measure and record the length of each roll inspected.
Inspection for Defects
The Vendor should train and/or conduct internal certification for the inspectors according
to this Manual and Matrix Sourcing requirements. The Vendor inspectors should inspect
each material type based on Four Point System before shipped.
~ Four Point System ~
A widely recognized inspection method frequently used in the textile industry. It is a
technique issued by the American Society for Testing & Materials with reference to the
designation ASTM D5 430-93
Start the frame and inspect for defects. Run the frame at 20 ± 5 yards per minute (18 ± 5
meters per minute). If a defect is observed:
1. Faults are classified and scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4, according to their
size and significance. Each defect should be counted as a separate defect even if the
nature is the same and then based on the points allocated to each defect, total points
should be calculated.
~ Four Point Table ~
Vertical Defects
Horizontal Defects
(along the length)
(along the width)
Length
Points
Length
0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to
8.0 cm)
1
0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0
1
cm)
3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to
15.0 cm)
2
3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to
15.0 cm)
2
6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to
23.0 cm)
3
6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to
23.0 cm)
3
9.1 to 36.0 in (23.1 to
92.0 cm)
4
Points
9.1 to full width (above
23.1 cm)
4
Note:

A maximum of 4 points may be assigned to any one linear yard), regardless of the
number or size of the individual defects.

For a continuous lengthwise running defect, 4 points and 1 defect will be assigned
to each linear yard where the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 centimeters).
Example: Short End/ barre effect on the full roll in 100linear yards: 400 points should be
assigned with 100 defects
2. Mark the defect at the selvedge and/or at the defect.
3. Record the defect and the assigned points on the inspection worksheet.
Inspection Results
Complete the worksheet and calculate the total points of each inspected roll and the total
of the inspected linear yards/meters. With this information use the appropriate formula
below to calculate the Average Points (per 100 linear yards or linear meters).
Points/100 yd2
=
Total Points of inspected roll x 36
Total Inspected Yards x Fabric Width in inches
X 100
Evaluation Guideline
Factory will evaluate a vendor’s quality performance based on the point count system,
using the following guideline:
Fabric Type
Allowable Points per 100 linear
yards
Woven Fabric
20
Warp Knit Fabric
20
Knit Fabrics (Open width Or Tubular)
20
Note: This criterion is subject to change at Matrix Sourcing/Customer discretion.
D.2 Accept / Reject Procedure
Vendor should not ship any roll or shipment with defect points exceed the above
evaluation guideline. The factory will determine how the shipment can best meet Matrix
Sourcing/ Customer standards.
However, vendor might communicate with Matrix Sourcing prior to the shipment if the
average points per 100 linear yards (90 linear meters) of any roll shows a higher number
than allowed on the Matrix Sourcing evaluation guideline above. In this case, the Matrix
Sourcing & Customer may decide to use a shipment or the roll even if the average points
per 100 linear yards (90 linear meters) shows a higher number than allowed. .
D.3 Reporting
The inspection is intended to determine the shipment quality and to capture information
for quality performance evaluation of the vendor. One inspection report should be
completed for each Item / color inspected and send a copy of the Inspection Report to
garment factory prior to or with shipment.
Inspection Report information containing inspection date / shipped date / season year /
buy month / garment factory / order number / item number / batch number / dye lot
number / color code and color name / inspection points / inspection results / yardages /
weight / width … etc. should be clearly visible on documentation with English language at
least. Records should be kept at least 2 years and available to Matrix/ customer upon
request.
We expects all material suppliers to follow the same guidelines to ensure quality product
delivered to the factories,
In next section, we will continue the classification and description on fabric defects.
C. Fabric Defect Classifications
Defect Classifications for Fabric
Defect
Description
Slub , Uneven Yarn (thick &
thin)
Barré
Yarn contamination / Fly
Dead cotton
Missing Line
Holes
Reed mark
Streaks
Stop marks
Knots
Miss weave/miss-knit pattern
Puckered Selvage
Selvage Torn
Pilling
Shading (selvage to selvage)
Dye Streaks
Color smear
Crease Streak
Slippage
Bowing
Skewing/Bias
Thick uneven spot(s) in the fabric caused by lint or small
lengths of yarn adhering to it
Flaw in fabric consisting of textured or color bars in the
direction of warp or filing which can be caused by
imperfection in the yarn or in the construction or finishing of
the fabric.
Foreign fibers or soil, woven or knitted in the fabric.
Damaged cotton by the weather conditions, over or under
mature cotton, which is difficult to process, leaving behind
white or black spots.
Filling yarn broken when weaving / the harness misdraw
results in two ends weaving as one, caused by one end of
yarn missing from feed and machine continue to run.
Missing yarn, leaving behind a space, caused by broken
needle
Running lines in the warp direction, caused by bent reed
wire causing warp ends to be held apart.
Dark of light uneven lines, caused by faulty processing
Lines in the weft direction, caused when machine stopped ,
the yarn elongates the tension results in making across the
width
Uneven raised knot, two yarn ends are tied together
Pattern that different to the other area/ stitches failed to
form due to a malfunctioning needle or jack
Uneven surface, caused by bent needle forming distorted
stitches , usually a vertical line
A break in the yarn of a knit fabric that causes the stitch to
"run" along the needle line or a void caused by a missing
warp yarn
Fiber gathering in the form of a bead on the surface as a
result of friction caused by abrasion with other surface
caused by yarn quality
A change in shade either abrupt or gradual, caused by poor
processing
Uneven steaks occurred during dyeing or finishing
Uneven color application as the result of color being
smeared during printing
Uneven marks showing light or dark lines as a results from
creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in dyeing
process
Uneven blotch marks caused due to improper dyeing
process
Woven filling yarns lie in an arc across fabric width; in knits
the course lines lie in an arch across width of goods.
Condition where filling yarns are not square with warp
yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not square
with walse lines on knits
Defect
Description
Crease marks/Wrinkles/Fold
Marks
Pin holes
appears where creases are caused by fabric folds under
pressure in the finishing process
Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it
processes through tender frame. – Major, if pin holes
extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible in the
finished product
A break, tear or pull in the fabric, caused by a pulled thread
in the fabric/yarn pulled out from the fabric
Snagging
Abrasion Mark
Improper scratch during finishing
Dirt/Soil/stain
Fabric got dirty spots when finishing
Oil Spots / grease spots
An oil spot on the fabric
Water Spots / Water marks
Light marks, usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to
remain too long before drying; color migrates leaving
blotchy spots.
This is a phenomenon which causes light colored fabric to
yellow over time
Dye smudged along width of fabric as a result of stop the
printing machine stopping
Yellowing of fabric
Printer Machine stop
Print Out of register
Miss print
Print is out of fit, caused by print rollers not being
synchronized properly; results in various colors of the
design not printed in proper position
Missing color in the pattern caused by color feeding
stoppage or faulty printing
D: Summary of Production Fabric Testing & Inspection
Material Quality Process is the process developed to measure vendor performance. In
this process, both vendors and factories are required to take steps to ensure first quality
fabric reaches the cutting table to manufacture ultimate garment products. However to
emphasize the importance and responsibilities, we have developed a summary page as
described below:
II. Inspection Procedures
a. Inspection Sample
 must sample a minimum of 10% or 1 Roll, whichever is greater, of every
incoming shipment by color
b. Check color
 make Color continuity card between rolls inspected
 check against color standard
 check against vendor’s reference cutting and Spectrophotometer reading
c. Aesthetics
 check hand feel
 check fabric appearance of face side
d. Visual Inspection
 measure fabric width & length
 inspection for Defects by using Four Point System
e. Fill out Inspection worksheet
III. Inspection Results
a. Evaluation guideline:
 Allowable Points per 100 yards (90 meters): 10 points for all fabric types
b. Result & Reporting
 Input Accept, Reject or Standard Exception result into MIS (Material
Inspection System)
IV. Record keeping (at least two years)
a. Documents provided by Vendor:
 Seasonal Reference Sample
 Vendor Internal Inspection Report
 Vendor Internal Physical Test Report
 Reference cutting of each dye lot & Spectrophotometer Reading
 Vendor Letter for “Limited Approved” status and “Spectrophotometer
non-readable values
b. Documents prepared by factory:
 Color continuality card between rolls inspected
 Inspection Worksheet