So you’ve found that car you’ve been looking for. What do you do now?
The following information will guide you through all the things you need to do before you
take possession of your new car.
There are also a number of precautions you will need to take, particularly when
purchasing a used car. These are detailed later in this article with information on getting
an independent inspection, and information on certificates and registers. There is also
some information about what to do in the unlikely event things go wrong.
How much should I pay?
There is no “right” price for a used car. Ultimately,
the final value will depend on the car’s:
Age (year of manufacture)
Model (basic versus luxury)
General condition
Kilometres travelled
The perceived value of the car to the buyer
and seller
If you are an RACQ member, contact our
Technical Advice Department once you've
found the used car you want to buy. Based on the
car’s details, we can provide an approximate price
for that make and model.
Supply and demand in the area in which you
are buying (market forces)
Call our Technical Advice Department on 3666
9148 or 1800 623 456 outside the Brisbane area.
Post factory modifications or accessories
(if applicable)
Alternatively, you can use RACQ's online Car
Value Guide to help you to get an idea of what a
vehicle is likely to be worth. Just enter your
vehicle's details into the valuation guide and we can
tell you the approximate value range for your car.
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Getting independent inspections
Before you commit to buying a used car, we
recommend that you have a suitably qualified person
inspect the car to identify any faults and suggest
what will need attention in the future.
Make sure you get a written report and know the
approximate cost of necessary / recommended
repairs. RACQ offers a competitively priced
vehicle inspection service with a range of
inspections available.
If the seller is hesitant to allow an inspection or
will only allow it to be inspected by someone of
their choosing, have nothing to do with the
car – it’s just not worth the risk.
Certificate and Registers
Safety Certificates
All registered cars in Queensland must have a
current Safety Certificate before they are offered for
sale. Significant fines apply for failing to display a
current Safety Certificate.
Safety Certificate inspections provide only a basic
check to ensure things like the tyres, suspension,
steering, brakes, lights and the car body (rust) are
not unsafe. They are not intended to identify all
defects so vehicles may have a valid Safety
Certificate yet still have major mechanical issues.
A Safety Certificate is not a substitute for an
independent vehicle inspection.
In the case of a private sale the Safety Certificate
is valid for a period of two months or 2,000km,
while for dealers the Safety Certificate is valid for
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three months or 1,000km - whichever comes
first. You should check that the certificate is valid
before you commit to the purchase, as the
transfer of registration cannot be completed
without one.
It is the seller’s legal responsibility to provide the
Safety Certificate and complete any repairs
required before the certificate can be issued. You
should never be persuaded to get your own
Safety Certificate as any required repairs will be at
your cost.
In the case of an unregistered vehicle there is no
legal requirement for the seller to provide a Safety
Certificate however it is in your best interest to
demand one.
Read all 8 articles in this series at www.racq.com.au/buyingacar
Gas Certificates
All cars fitted with LPG require a Gas Certificate to
be issued by a licensed gas fitter (in addition to the
Safety Certificate). This involves an inspection to
ensure the gas equipment is safe.
A vehicle’s registration cannot be transferred to a
new owner without one. It is the seller’s
responsibility to provide a valid Gas Certificate for
registered vehicles. Licensed Gas fitters can be
found in the yellow pages.
Register of Encumbered Vehicles
(REVS)
A REVS check is not mandatory but is highly
recommended when buying privately. It’s the only
check of a vehicle’s financial status you can make.
REVS records details of any financial interest,
money owing, or leases on used cars, details of
cars listed as stolen with Queensland Police, and
details of cars that have been water damaged.
If you are buying a used car from a dealer, the
dealer is required to provide you with a REVS
Certificate and declare any known water damage.
If you buy a used car privately, you can request a
REVS Certificate by phoning 13 13 04. You will
need to provide:
The vehicle’s registration number
Engine number
Vehicle Identity Number (VIN) or chassis
number and
It is important that you provide REVS with the
correct details of the vehicle as any error in the
numbers will make the search invalid and the
REVS certificate will offer you no protection.
You should have the REVS Certificate issued on
the same day the purchase is completed. It will
show all registered details to the date the
certificate is issued.
If the REVS check shows some encumbrance
do not proceed with the sale until you have
taken legal advice. If the used car you buy is
leased or has money owing on it, the financial
institution involved can take steps to have the
vehicle repossessed from you, even though you
were unaware of the situation. You can find out
more from the Office of Fair Trading.
Keep your REVS certificate in a safe place as this is
your proof that there was no money owing on the
vehicle when you bought it. But remember that if
the vehicle is stolen and has had its identifiers
changed, a REVS certificate will ultimately provide
no protection.
Vehicle Information Check (Vcheck)
The Vcheck provides the latest information recorded
on Queensland Transport systems. It is available in
four different versions that contain general
information about the vehicle. Additional information
that is available to purchase include vehicle history
for Queensland vehicles and/or the REVS Certificate.
Vcheck contains details of vehicles up to 15 years
old that have been “written-off”. Since late 2002
details of vehicles that have been water damaged
are also recorded.
Payment of a small fee for the search and
the certificate provided
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Don't rely on a Vcheck as a substitute for a
vehicle inspection. While details of water
damage stay on the register, details of repairable
write-offs are limited to when it was placed on
the register and when it was cleared from the
register. You can find out more information and
purchase Vcheck from Queensland Transport.
Problems
If you believe the used car you bought may have a
suspect Safety Certificate, you must act quickly.
Queensland Transport administers the Safety
Certificate system and you should contact your
nearest Transport Inspection Centre or Transport
Inspector for further advice.
Phone 13 2380 for the location of your nearest
Transport Inspector. The longer you drive the
car, the less likely it is that Queensland Transport
will be able to help. Do not have repairs carried
out before Queensland Transport sees the car.
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The Transport Inspector must see the faults
before they are repaired if they are to take action.
Remember also that a complaint to Queensland
Transport will not get your car repaired. If
Queensland Transport finds that the Safety
Certificate provider has erred, they may be fined
or prosecuted, but you may ultimately need to
take your own legal action to recover any losses.
For legal advice regarding car purchase
issues, RACQ members are encouraged to
contact our Legal Advice service on 13 1905.
Read all 8 articles in this series at www.racq.com.au/buyingacar
RACQ Pre-Purchase Inspection Checklist
Take a printed copy of this checklist every time you inspect a car – so you can compare vehicles "side-by-side”.
1. Vehicle details
Date:
Owner/Sellers Name:
Address:
Vehicle Make and Model:
Registration Number:
Engine Number:
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN):
Odometer Reading:
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Notes
2. Initial checks
Notes
Is a vehicle service history available?
Has it been regularly serviced?
Do odometer readings on service documents correspond with the
odometer reading?
Does the car have a current Safety Certificate (valid for < 2
months and 2,000 km for private sales and < 3 months and 1,000
km for dealer sales)?
Additional considerations for private sales:
Do the owner’s name and address, car’s engine number,
registration number and VIN match the registration papers?
Is there any sign of tampering around the engine number, body
number or compliance plate?
Does the compliance plate accurately reflect the car (body style,
seating capacity etc)?
Is the VIN on the plate the same as the number stamped on the
body?
3. Exterior checks*
* Never inspect when it has been raining or at night, even if well - lit.
Bodywork
Almost every car has minor bumps and small dents that accumulate
from normal usage. Be more concerned about panels that don’t line
up and variations in paint colour and finish, these can indicate
previous accident damage and warrant further investigation.
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Notes
Doors
Check that all doors open and close smoothly and do not sag or
drop when opened. Make sure all windows wind up and down
freely and that all locks work properly. Torn or perished rubbers
may not appear significant, but can be costly to replace.
Rust
Look for bulges or blisters under the paint, particularly in lower
panels. Check under door seals, the boot well and the lower
sections of the mudguards. Lift mats and carpet if possible. Check
around front and rear windscreen openings and in the roof drip
rails. A fridge magnet can help identify where plastic filler has been
used to conceal rust. If the magnet doesn’t stick to “metal” body
panelling, it’s likely to be filled with plastic.
On 4WD’s look carefully at the chassis rails for scaly rust and a
build up of dirt and sand that can cause rust. Be suspicious of any
vehicle that has been freshly coated with “body deadener”, you don’t
know what’s under it. Very rusty vehicles should be avoided.
Suspension
Push down each corner of the car in turn, it should bounce once,
then return to its normal position. Extra bounce suggests faulty
shock absorbers.
Stand back and look at the vehicle. It should be level with little
difference side-to-side or front to back. Unevenness may indicate
spring problems. Listen for knocks and unusual noises on rough
roads and bumps. This may indicate worn suspension components.
Tyres
Legal tyres (for Safety Certificate approval) must have at least 1.5
mm of tread across the full face of the tyre that contacts the road.
Once the tread drops below this, the tyres must be replaced.
Check that the spare is in good condition. Tyres should be free
from cuts, bulges and uneven wear (which may indicate suspension
or alignment problems). Tyre specifications are usually listed in the
owner’s handbook and Tyre Placard (on the glovebox lid or in the
driver’s door opening). Check this to ensure the car has the
appropriate tyres fitted.
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4. Interior checks
Notes
Lights
Check all lights work and that lenses are not badly faded or broken.
Windscreen wipers
Check that they operate on all speeds and that the washers work.
Instruments and gauges
Make sure all instruments (including the odometer), gauges, and
warning lights work.
Stereo/radio
Check all speakers and radio/stereo controls work. If the radio has
a security code, remember to ask for the code before purchase.
Air conditioning
Air from the vents should feel cold when the air conditioning is
operating. The fan should operate on all speeds and the air
conditioning compressor should not be excessively noisy.
Seats
All seats should be securely mounted. Lift up any seat covers to
check the condition of the upholstery. Press along the seats surface
to check for broken or sagged springs. Check that all seat
adjustments operate correctly, particularly if power seats are fitted.
Seat belts
Fully extend all seat belts, they should not be badly sun bleached,
cut, frayed or in any way damaged. They should retract, and when
given a sharp tug, the retractor should lock. Check that all seat belt
buckles lock and release easily.
5. Under the bonnet
Radiator
For your safety only remove the radiator cap when the engine is
cold. The coolant should be clean and full. Rusty coolant and/or low
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Notes
coolant levels indicate that the vehicle may not be well serviced.
Very rusty coolant or oil in the radiator are warning signs that the
cooling system, and probably the engine, requires repairs or
maintenance. Run your fingers over the radiator core fins. They
should be solid and not crumble when touched. If they do the
radiator has limited life.
If the radiator has plastic tanks, check they have not begun to lose
their black colouring, or to develop fine cracks. These conditions
mean that the tank or tanks should be replaced to prevent serious
engine damage.
Hoses
Water hoses that are very soft and spongy or very hard will need to
be replaced to avoid serious engine damage.
Oil
The engine oil should be up to the full mark on the dipstick and
should not be too dark in colour or smell burnt. If the oil level is
low or the oil appears milky, dark, or smells burnt there may be
serious engine trouble. Check the ground where the vehicle has
been parked, there should be no evidence of oil leakage.
Automatic transmission fluid
Automatic transmission fluid should be cherry pink. Dark, dirty or
burnt smelling oil is an indication of major problems or lack of
servicing.
< NOW START THE ENGINE >
It should start easily and idle smoothly even when cold. Let the
engine warm up. Once warm, have someone rev the engine a few
times while you watch the exhaust for smoke. Blue, black or white
smoke may mean problems.
Listen for rattling and knocking while the engine warms up and then
again once it is fully warm. Have anything you are not sure about
checked before you commit to the purchase.
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6. The test drive*
*If possible take someone with mechanical knowledge along on the test
drive to help identify defects or unusual noises.
Insurance
Before you take the car for a test drive make sure it is covered by
insurance. Failing to do so could leave you responsible for any damage
resulting from an accident. Also identify any existing damage to the
vehicle and draw it to the seller’s attention before the test drive.
Brakes
Before you go too far on the test drive pick a safe place to try the
brakes. The pedal should feel solid when the brakes are applied and
the car should pull up in a straight line. The hand brake should
effectively hold the car on a hill in either direction. Brakes should
not make grinding or squealing noises, pull to one side or be
inefficient in stopping the car.
Clutch and transmission
Transmissions in both manual and automatic cars should shift
smoothly. Automatics shouldn’t have any undue delay in selecting
gears and manuals shouldn’t “crunch” during shifts. The clutch
shouldn’t shudder or slip. Remember to check reverse too.
Handling and noises
The car should drive straight on a flat road, if it pulls to one side or
has excessive free play in the steering there may be a steering or
suspension fault. Drive over a variety of road surfaces at different
speeds to find any abnormal behaviours and unusual noises.
Keep the windows up and the radio off while checking for noises. If the
car is front wheel drive, find a safe place to do some low speed
circles on left and right full lock. A “clicking” noise from either front
wheel indicates worn CV joints.
After the test drive
After the test drive while the engine is hot, check again for smoke,
noises and oil leaks. Also remove the oil filler cap while the engine
is idling to check for excessive fumes that indicate a worn engine.
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Notes