1. technology and computing

2000 GMC Yukon Denali
Owner's Manual
Litho in U.S.A.
Part Number S2009 A First Edition
© Copyright General Motors Corporation 1999
All Rights Reserved
i
Table of Contents
Seats and Restraint Systems
Section 1
Seats and Seat Controls
Safety Belts
Air Bag System
Child Restraints
Features and Controls
Section 2
ii
Keys and Door Locks
Keyless Entry System
Tailgate
Automatic Transmission (If Equipped)
Four-Wheel Drive Operation (If Equipped)
Parking Brake
Windows
Tilt Wheel
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
Windshield Wipers
Cruise Control
Interior and Exterior Lamps
Mirrors
Storage Compartments
Convenience Net/Cargo Cover/Luggage Carrier (If Equipped)
Accessory Power Outlets
OnStar® System (Option)
HomeLink® Transmitter (Option)
Instrument Panel, Warning Lights and Gages
Table of Contents (cont'd)
Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
Section 3
Heating and Air Conditioning
Setting the Radio Clock
Radio/Cassette Player/CD Player
Radio Theft-Deterrent Feature
Your Driving and the Road
Section 4
Braking/Anti-lock Brakes (If Equipped)
Steering
Driving Tips for Various Road Conditions
Off-Road Driving
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Loading Your Vehicle
Towing a Trailer
Problems on the Road
Section 5
Hazard Warning Flashers
Jump Starting
Towing Your Vehicle
Engine Overheating
Changing a Flat Tire
If You're Stuck
iii
Table of Contents (cont'd)
Service and Appearance Care
Section 6
Fuel
Checking Fluids and Lubricants
Bulb Replacement
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Tires and Wheels
Appearance Care
Electrical System/Fuses and Circuit Breakers
Capacities and Specifications
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Maintenance Schedule
Section 7
iv
Scheduled Maintenance
Periodic Maintenance Inspections
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
Maintenance Records
Table of Contents (cont'd)
Customer Assistance Information
Section 8
Customer Satisfaction Procedures
Customer Assistance Offices
Roadside Assistance and Courtesy Transportation
Warranty Information (See Warranty Manual)
Reporting Safety Defects on page 8-10
Service Publications
Index
Section 9
In the Index you will find an alphabetical listing of almost every subject in this manual.
You can use it to quickly find something you want to read.
Please refer to the last page of this manual for your Service Station Guide
v
We support voluntary
technician certification.
GENERAL MOTORS, GM, the GM Emblem, GMC,
the GMC Emblem and the name YUKON are registered
trademarks and the name DENALI is a registered
trademark of General Motors Corporation.
This manual includes the latest information at the time
it was printed. We reserve the right to make changes
in the product after that time without further notice.
For vehicles first sold in Canada, substitute the name
“General Motors of Canada Limited” for GMC
whenever it appears in this manual.
Please keep this manual in your vehicle, so it will be
there if you ever need it when you’re on the road. If you
sell the vehicle, please leave this manual in it so the new
owner can use it.
vi
For Canadian Owners Who Prefer a
French Language Manual:
Aux propriétaires canadiens: Vous pouvez vous
procurer un exemplaire de ce guide en français chez
votre concessionaire ou au:
DGN Marketing Services Ltd.
1577 Meyerside Dr.
Mississauga, Ontario L5T 1B9
How to Use this Manual
Safety Warnings and Symbols
Many people read their owner’s manual from beginning
to end when they first receive their new vehicle. If you
do this, it will help you learn about the features and
controls for your vehicle. In this manual, you’ll find
that pictures and words work together to explain
things quickly.
You will find a number of safety cautions in this book.
We use a box and the word CAUTION to tell you
about things that could hurt you if you were to ignore
the warning.
CAUTION:
These mean there is something that could hurt
you or other people.
In the caution area, we tell you what the hazard is. Then
we tell you what to do to help avoid or reduce the
hazard. Please read these cautions. If you don’t, you or
others could be hurt.
vii
You will also find a circle
with a slash through it in
this book. This safety
symbol means “Don’t,”
“Don’t do this” or “Don’t
let this happen.”
In the notice area, we tell you about something that can
damage your vehicle. Many times, this damage would
not be covered by your warranty, and it could be costly.
But the notice will tell you what to do to help avoid
the damage.
When you read other manuals, you might see
CAUTION and NOTICE warnings in different colors or
in different words.
You’ll also see warning labels on your vehicle. They use
the same words, CAUTION or NOTICE.
Vehicle Damage Warnings
Also, in this book you will find these notices:
NOTICE:
These mean there is something that could
damage your vehicle.
viii
Vehicle Symbols
These are some of the symbols you may find on your vehicle.
For example,
these symbols
are used on an
original battery:
CAUTION
POSSIBLE
INJURY
PROTECT
EYES BY
SHIELDING
CAUSTIC
BATTERY
ACID COULD
CAUSE
BURNS
AVOID
SPARKS OR
FLAMES
SPARK OR
FLAME
COULD
EXPLODE
BATTERY
These symbols
are important
for you and
your passengers
whenever your
vehicle is
driven:
DOOR LOCK
UNLOCK
These symbols
have to do with
your lamps:
MASTER
LIGHTING
SWITCH
WINDSHIELD
WIPER
TURN
SIGNALS
WINDSHIELD
WASHER
PARKING
LAMPS
FASTEN
SEAT
BELTS
POWER
WINDOW
AIR BAG
These symbols
are on some of
your controls:
HAZARD
WARNING
FLASHER
DAYTIME
RUNNING
LAMPS
FOG LAMPS
WINDSHIELD
DEFROSTER
REAR
WINDOW
DEFOGGER
VENTILATING
FAN
These symbols
are used on
warning and
indicator lights:
Here are some
other symbols
you may see:
ENGINE
COOLANT
TEMP
FUSE
BATTERY
CHARGING
SYSTEM
LIGHTER
HORN
BRAKE
COOLANT
SPEAKER
ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
FUEL
ANTI-LOCK
BRAKES
ix
Model Reference
This manual covers this model:
4-Door Utility
x
Service Station Guide
Cooling System
Battery
For
a More
Detailed Look at
What's Under the Hood
See Section 5
Tire Pressure
See Section 6
See Section 6
Spare Tire Pressure
See Section 5
See Section 6
Hood Release
See Section 6
Windshield Washer
Fluid
See Section 6
Engine Oil Dipstick
See Section 6
Fuel
Use unleaded gas only,
87 Octane or higher.
See Section 6
Section 1 Seats and Restraint Systems
Here you’ll find information about the seats in your vehicle and how to use your safety belts properly. You can also
learn about some things you should not do with air bags and safety belts.
1-2
1-8
1-13
1-14
1-14
1-22
1-23
1-23
1-30
Seats and Seat Controls
Safety Belts: They’re for Everyone
Here Are Questions Many People Ask About
Safety Belts -- and the Answers
How to Wear Safety Belts Properly
Driver Position
Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy
Right Front Passenger Position
Air Bag System
Rear Seat Passengers
1-34
1-37
1-38
1-41
1-54
1-57
1-57
1-57
Rear Safety Belt Comfort Guides
for Children and Small Adults
Center Passenger Position
Children
Child Restraints
Larger Children
Safety Belt Extender
Checking Your Restraint Systems
Replacing Restraint System Parts
After a Crash
1-
1-1
Seats and Seat Controls
This section tells you about the seats -- how to adjust
them and fold them up and down. It also tells you about
reclining front seatbacks and head restraints.
Power Seats
You can adjust the front seats with the controls located
on the side of the seat, next to the door.
1-2
You can use the round center knob to move the seat to
where you want it. To do this, move the knob up. To
lower the seat, move the knob down. To move the seat
forward or rearward, move the knob toward the front of
the vehicle or toward the rear.
You can also raise and lower the front and rear of the
seat. To raise or lower the front of the seat, move the
front lever up or down. To raise or lower the rear of the
seat, move the rear lever up or down.
Power Lumbar Adjustment
Heated Front Seats
Your vehicle has a power lumbar adjuster located at the
front of the control panel on the left side of the seat. You
can increase or decrease lumbar support in an area of the
lower seatback.
The control for the driver’s side heated seat is located on
the left side of the seat. The control for the right front
passenger is located on the right side of the passenger
seat. Move the switch forward to MED or HIGH
temperature to turn on the heating elements in the seat.
The right front passenger’s safety belt must be buckled
before the heating elements in that seat will operate. To
turn the heated seats off, move the switch rearward to
OFF. For information on heated rear seats, see “Heated
Rear Seats” in the Index.
To increase support, press and hold the front of the
rocker switch. Let go of the switch when the lower
seatback reaches the desired level of support.
To decrease support, press and hold the rear of the
rocker switch. Let go of the switch when the lower
seatback reaches the desired level of support.
1-3
Reclining Front Seatbacks
To adjust the seatback,
move the lever rearward.
Release the lever to lock the seatback where you want it.
Move the lever again rearward and the seatback will go
to an upright position.
1-4
But don’t have a seatback reclined if your vehicle
is moving.
Head Restraints
CAUTION:
Sitting in a reclined position when your vehicle is
in motion can be dangerous. Even if you buckle
up, your safety belts can’t do their job when
you’re reclined like this.
The shoulder belt can’t do its job because it
won’t be against your body. Instead, it will be in
front of you. In a crash you could go into it,
receiving neck or other injuries.
The lap belt can’t do its job either. In a crash the
belt could go up over your abdomen. The belt
forces would be there, not at your pelvic bones.
This could cause serious internal injuries.
For proper protection when the vehicle is in
motion, have the seatback upright. Then sit well
back in the seat and wear your safety belt properly.
Slide the head restraint up or down so that the top of the
restraint is closest to the top of your ears. This position
reduces the chance of a neck injury in a crash.
The head restraints tilt forward and rearward also.
Pull firmly on the top of the head restraint to position it
to your liking.
Rear Seats
CAUTION:
If a head restraint is not installed on the seatback
or stored in the vehicle properly, it could be
thrown about the vehicle in a crash or sudden
maneuver. People in the vehicle could be injured.
Remove the head restraints only when you need
to fold the seat, and be sure that the head
restraints are stored securely in the appropriate
holes at the rear of the lower seat cushion. When
the seat is returned to the passenger position, be
sure the head restraints are installed properly.
1-5
Folding the Rear Seat
Your vehicle has a 60/40 rear seat. Either side may be
folded down to give you more cargo space.
Before folding, place the latch portion of the center
safety belt in the center armrest. That way, the center
safety belt will be out of the way when the seat is folded
and also will be easily available for passengers to use
when the seat is returned to the passenger position. Also,
make sure that nothing is under or in front of the seat.
When the seat is folded, it will lay flat on the floor.
To fold the seat, pull up on
the strap loop at the rear of
the seat cushion.
Fold the seatback forward
enough to allow removal
of the head restraints. Push
and hold the release buttons
at the bottom of each head
restraint height-adjust
post and slide the head
restraint out of the
height-adjust tubes.
Set the head restraints aside for now. You will stow
them in their proper position after you are done folding
the seat.
Pull the seatback forward and fold the seatback down
until it is flat.
Then, pull the seat cushion up and fold it forward.
1-6
Then, store the head
restraints by sliding them
into the rear of the seat
cushion. Make sure the
posts go in all the way.
2. Lift the seatback up enough to install the
head restraints.
3. Push the seatback rearward all the way.
4. Lower the seat cushion until it latches in position.
5. Pull forward on the seatback and up on the seat
cushion to make sure that the seat is securely
in place.
To return the seat to the passenger position, use the
following procedure:
If the latch plate portion of the center safety belt was put
in the center armrest when the seat was folded, take the
latch plate portion out and place it on the seat. That way,
the center position safety belt will be available for the
center rear seat passenger to use.
1. Remove the head restraints by sliding them out of
the seat cushion.
1-7
Heated Rear Seats
Safety Belts: They’re for Everyone
The controls for the heated
rear seats are located on the
rear of the center floor
console, below the rear seat
audio controls.
This part of the manual tells you how to use safety belts
properly. It also tells you some things you should not do
with safety belts.
And it explains the air bag system.
CAUTION:
Press the top of the switch to HI or the bottom of the
switch to LO to turn on the heating elements in the
outside rear seat positions. The text HI or LO on the
switch will illuminate to indicate that the heated seat
elements are operating. The switch on the left side
operates the driver’s seat and the switch on the right side
operates the passenger’s sent. The rear seat outside
passenger’s safety belt must be attached before the
heating element in that seat will operate. To turn the
heated seats off, move the switch to the center. For more
information on heated front seats, see “Heated Front
Seats” in the Index.
1-8
Don’t let anyone ride where he or she can’t wear
a safety belt properly. If you are in a crash and
you’re not wearing a safety belt, your injuries
can be much worse. You can hit things inside the
vehicle or be ejected from it. You can be seriously
injured or killed. In the same crash, you might
not be if you are buckled up. Always fasten your
safety belt, and check that your passengers’ belts
are fastened properly too.
In most states and Canadian provinces, the law says to
wear safety belts. Here’s why: They work.
CAUTION:
It is extremely dangerous to ride in a cargo area,
inside or outside of a vehicle. In a collision,
people riding in these areas are more likely to be
seriously injured or killed. Do not allow people to
ride in any area of your vehicle that is not
equipped with seats and safety belts. Be sure
everyone in your vehicle is in a seat and using a
safety belt properly.
You never know if you’ll be in a crash. If you do have a
crash, you don’t know if it will be a bad one.
A few crashes are mild, and some crashes can be so
serious that even buckled up a person wouldn’t survive.
But most crashes are in between. In many of them,
people who buckle up can survive and sometimes walk
away. Without belts they could have been badly hurt
or killed.
After more than 30 years of safety belts in vehicles,
the facts are clear. In most crashes buckling up does
matter ... a lot!
Your vehicle has a light that
comes on as a reminder to
buckle up. (See “Safety
Belt Reminder Light” in
the Index.)
1-9
Why Safety Belts Work
When you ride in or on anything, you go as fast as
it goes.
Put someone on it.
Take the simplest vehicle. Suppose it’s just a seat
on wheels.
1-10
Get it up to speed. Then stop the vehicle. The rider
doesn’t stop.
The person keeps going until stopped by something.
In a real vehicle, it could be the windshield ...
1-11
or the instrument panel ...
or the safety belts!
With safety belts, you slow down as the vehicle does.
You get more time to stop. You stop over more distance,
and your strongest bones take the forces. That’s why
safety belts make such good sense.
1-12
Here Are Questions Many People Ask
About Safety Belts -- and the Answers
Q: Won’t I be trapped in the vehicle after an
accident if I’m wearing a safety belt?
A:
You could be -- whether you’re wearing a safety
belt or not. But you can unbuckle a safety belt,
even if you’re upside down. And your chance of
being conscious during and after an accident, so
you can unbuckle and get out, is much greater if
you are belted.
Q:
If my vehicle has air bags, why should I have to
wear safety belts?
A:
Air bags are in many vehicles today and will be in
most of them in the future. But they are
supplemental systems only; so they work with
safety belts -- not instead of them. Every air bag
system ever offered for sale has required the use of
safety belts. Even if you’re in a vehicle that has air
bags, you still have to buckle up to get the most
protection. That’s true not only in frontal collisions,
but especially in side and other collisions.
Q:
If I’m a good driver, and I never drive far from
home, why should I wear safety belts?
A:
You may be an excellent driver, but if you’re in an
accident -- even one that isn’t your fault -- you
and your passengers can be hurt. Being a good
driver doesn’t protect you from things beyond your
control, such as bad drivers.
Most accidents occur within 25 miles (40 km)
of home. And the greatest number of serious
injuries and deaths occur at speeds of less than
40 mph (65 km/h).
Safety belts are for everyone.
1-13
How to Wear Safety Belts Properly
Adults
This part is only for people of adult size.
Be aware that there are special things to know about
safety belts and children. And there are different rules for
smaller children and babies. If a child will be riding in
your vehicle, see the part of this manual called
“Children.” Follow those rules for everyone’s protection.
First, you’ll want to know which restraint systems your
vehicle has.
We’ll start with the driver position.
Driver Position
This part describes the driver’s restraint system.
Lap-Shoulder Belt
The driver has a lap-shoulder belt. Here’s how to wear
it properly.
1. Close and lock the door.
2. Adjust the seat (to see how, see “Seats” in the Index)
so you can sit up straight.
1-14
3. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.
Don’t let it get twisted.
4. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.
If the belt isn’t long enough, see “Safety Belt
Extender” at the end of this section.
Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned
so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly
if you ever had to.
The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on
the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this applies
force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be less
likely to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it, the
belt would apply force at your abdomen. This could
cause serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder belt
should go over the shoulder and across the chest.
These parts of the body are best able to take belt
restraining forces.
The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or a crash.
1-15
Shoulder Belt Height Adjuster
Before you begin to drive, move the shoulder belt
adjuster to the height that is right for you.
To move it down, push in at the word PRESS and move
the height adjuster to the desired position. You can move
the adjuster up just by pushing up on the shoulder belt
guide. After you move the adjuster to where you want it,
try to move it down without pushing in to make sure it
has locked into position.
Adjust the height so that the shoulder portion of the
belt is centered on your shoulder. The belt should be
away from your face and neck, but not falling off
your shoulder.
1-16
Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt is
too loose. In a crash, you would move forward
too much, which could increase injury. The
shoulder belt should fit against your body.
A:
The shoulder belt is too loose. It won’t give nearly
as much protection this way.
1-17
Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if your belt is
buckled in the wrong place like this. In a crash,
the belt would go up over your abdomen. The
belt forces would be there, not at the pelvic
bones. This could cause serious internal injuries.
Always buckle your belt into the buckle
nearest you.
A:
The belt is buckled in the wrong place.
1-18
Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if your belt goes
over an armrest like this. The belt would be much
too high. In a crash, you can slide under the belt.
The belt force would then be applied at the
abdomen, not at the pelvic bones, and that could
cause serious or fatal injuries. Be sure the belt
goes under the armrests.
A:
The belt is over an armrest.
1-19
Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if you wear the
shoulder belt under your arm. In a crash, your
body would move too far forward, which would
increase the chance of head and neck injury.
Also, the belt would apply too much force to the
ribs, which aren’t as strong as shoulder bones.
You could also severely injure internal organs
like your liver or spleen.
A:
The shoulder belt is worn under the arm. It should
be worn over the shoulder at all times.
1-20
Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured by a twisted belt. In
a crash, you wouldn’t have the full width of the
belt to spread impact forces. If a belt is twisted,
make it straight so it can work properly, or ask
your dealer to fix it.
A:
The belt is twisted across the body.
1-21
Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy
Safety belts work for everyone, including pregnant
women. Like all occupants, they are more likely to be
seriously injured if they don’t wear safety belts.
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.
The belt should go back out of the way.
Before you close the door, be sure the belt is out of the
way. If you slam the door on it, you can damage both the
belt and your vehicle.
A pregnant woman should wear a lap-shoulder belt, and
the lap portion should be worn as low as possible, below
the rounding, throughout the pregnancy.
1-22
The best way to protect the fetus is to protect the
mother. When a safety belt is worn properly, it’s more
likely that the fetus won’t be hurt in a crash. For
pregnant women, as for anyone, the key to making
safety belts effective is wearing them properly.
Right Front Passenger Position
To learn how to wear the right front passenger’s safety belt
properly, see “Driver Position” earlier in this section.
The right front passenger’s safety belt works the same
way as the driver’s safety belt -- except for one thing.
If you ever pull the lap portion of the belt out all the
way, you will engage the child restraint locking feature.
If this happens, just let the belt go back all the way and
start again.
Air Bag System
This part explains the air bag system.
Your vehicle has air bags -- one air bag for the driver
and another air bag for the right front passenger.
Frontal air bags are designed to help reduce the risk of
injury from the force of an inflating air bag. But these
air bags must inflate very quickly to do their job and
comply with federal regulations.
Here are the most important things to know about the air
bag system:
CAUTION:
You can be severely injured or killed in a crash if
you aren’t wearing your safety belt -- even if you
have air bags. Wearing your safety belt during a
crash helps reduce your chance of hitting things
inside the vehicle or being ejected from it. Air
bags are “supplemental restraints” to the safety
belts. All air bags are designed to work with
safety belts, but don’t replace them. Air bags are
designed to work only in moderate to severe
crashes where the front of your vehicle hits
something. They aren’t designed to inflate at all
in rollover, rear, side or low-speed frontal
crashes. And, for unrestrained occupants, air
bags may provide less protection in frontal
crashes than more forceful air bags have
provided in the past. Everyone in your vehicle
should wear a safety belt properly -- whether or
not there’s an air bag for that person.
1-23
CAUTION:
Air bags inflate with great force, faster than the
blink of an eye. If you’re too close to an inflating
air bag, as you would be if you were leaning
forward, it could seriously injure you. Safety
belts help keep you in position before and during
a crash. Always wear your safety belt, even with
air bags. The driver should sit as far back as
possible while still maintaining control of
the vehicle.
1-24
CAUTION:
Anyone who is up against, or very close to, any
air bag when it inflates can be seriously injured
or killed. Air bags plus lap-shoulder belts offer
the best protection for adults, but not for young
children and infants. Neither the vehicle’s safety
belt system nor its air bag system is designed for
them. Young children and infants need the
protection that a child restraint system can
provide. Always secure children properly in your
vehicle. To read how, see the part of this manual
called “Children.”
There is an air bag
readiness light on the
instrument panel, which
shows AIR BAG.
How the Air Bag System Works
The system checks the air bag electrical system for
malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical
problem. See “Air Bag Readiness Light” in the Index
for more information.
Where are the air bags?
The driver’s air bag is in the middle of the
steering wheel.
1-25
CAUTION:
If something is between an occupant and an air
bag, the bag might not inflate properly or it
might force the object into that person. The path
of an inflating air bag must be kept clear. Don’t
put anything between an occupant and an air
bag, and don’t attach or put anything on the
steering wheel hub or on or near any other air
bag covering.
The right front passenger’s air bag is in the instrument
panel on the passenger’s side.
1-26
When should an air bag inflate?
What makes an air bag inflate?
An air bag is designed to inflate in a moderate to severe
frontal or near-frontal crash. The air bag will inflate
only if the impact speed is above the system’s designed
“threshold level.” If your vehicle goes straight into a
wall that doesn’t move or deform, the threshold level is
about 9 to 16 mph (14 to 26 km/h). The threshold level
can vary, however, with specific vehicle design, so that
it can be somewhat above or below this range. If your
vehicle strikes something that will move or deform, such
as a parked car, the threshold level will be higher. The
air bag is not designed to inflate in rollovers, side
impacts or rear impacts, because inflation would not
help the occupant.
In an impact of sufficient severity, the air bag sensing
system detects that the vehicle is in a crash. The sensing
system triggers a release of gas from the inflator, which
inflates the air bag. The inflator, air bag and related
hardware are all part of the air bag modules inside the
steering wheel and in the instrument panel in front of the
right front passenger.
In any particular crash, no one can say whether an air
bag should have inflated simply because of the damage
to a vehicle or because of what the repair costs were.
Inflation is determined by the angle of the impact and
how quickly the vehicle slows down in frontal or
near-frontal impacts.
The air bag system is designed to work properly under a
wide range of conditions, including off-road usage.
Observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough terrain.
As always, wear your safety belt. See “Off-Road
Driving” in the Index for more tips on off-road driving.
How does an air bag restrain?
In moderate to severe frontal or near-frontal collisions,
even belted occupants can contact the steering wheel or
the instrument panel. Air bags supplement the protection
provided by safety belts. Air bags distribute the force of
the impact more evenly over the occupant’s upper body,
stopping the occupant more gradually. But air bags
would not help you in many types of collisions,
including rollovers, rear impacts and side impacts,
primarily because an occupant’s motion is not toward
those air bags. Air bags should never be regarded as
anything more than a supplement to safety belts,
and then only in moderate to severe frontal or
near-frontal collisions.
1-27
What will you see after an air bag inflates?
After an air bag inflates, it quickly deflates, so quickly that
some people may not even realize the air bag inflated.
Some components of the air bag module -- the steering
wheel hub for the driver’s air bag, or the instrument panel
for the right front passenger’s bag -- will be hot for a short
time. The parts of the bag that come into contact with you
may be warm, but not too hot to touch. There will be
some smoke and dust coming from vents in the deflated
air bags. Air bag inflation doesn’t prevent the driver from
seeing or from being able to steer the vehicle, nor does it
stop people from leaving the vehicle.
CAUTION:
When an air bag inflates, there is dust in the air.
This dust could cause breathing problems for
people with a history of asthma or other
breathing trouble. To avoid this, everyone in the
vehicle should get out as soon as it is safe to do so.
If you have breathing problems but can’t get out
of the vehicle after an air bag inflates, then get
fresh air by opening a window or door.
1-28
In many crashes severe enough to inflate an air bag,
windshields are broken by vehicle deformation.
Additional windshield breakage may also occur from the
right front passenger air bag.
D Air bags are designed to inflate only once. After they
inflate, you’ll need some new parts for your air bag
system. If you don’t get them, the air bag system
won’t be there to help protect you in another crash.
A new system will include air bag modules and
possibly other parts. The service manual for your
vehicle covers the need to replace other parts.
D Your vehicle is equipped with a crash sensing and
diagnostic module, which records information about
the air bag system. The module records information
about the readiness of the system, when the system
commands air bag inflation and driver’s safety belt
usage at deployment. Some modules also record
speed, engine rpm, brake and throttle data.
D Let only qualified technicians work on your air bag
system. Improper service can mean that your air bag
system won’t work properly. See your dealer
for service.
NOTICE:
If you damage the covering for the driver’s or the
right front passenger’s air bag, the bag may not
work properly. You may have to replace the air
bag module in the steering wheel or both the air
bag module and the instrument panel for the
right front passenger’s air bag. Do not open or
break the air bag coverings.
If your vehicle ever gets into a lot of water -- such as
water up to the carpeting or higher -- or if water enters
your vehicle and soaks the carpet, the air bag controller
can be soaked and ruined. If this ever happens, and then
you start your vehicle, the damage could make the air
bags inflate, even if there’s no crash. You would have to
replace the air bags as well as the sensors and related
parts. If your vehicle is ever in a flood, or if it’s exposed
to water that soaks the carpet, you can avoid needless
repair costs by turning off the vehicle immediately and
disconnecting the battery cables. Don’t let anyone start
the vehicle under any circumstances. See your dealer
for service.
Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle
Air bags affect how your vehicle should be serviced.
There are parts of the air bag system in several places
around your vehicle. You don’t want the system to
inflate while someone is working on your vehicle. Your
dealer and the service manual have information about
servicing your vehicle and the air bag system. To
purchase a service manual, see “Service and Owner
Publications” in the Index.
CAUTION:
For up to 10 minutes after the ignition key is
turned off and the battery is disconnected, an air
bag can still inflate during improper service. You
can be injured if you are close to an air bag when
it inflates. Avoid yellow connectors. They are
probably part of the air bag system. Be sure to
follow proper service procedures, and make sure
the person performing work for you is qualified
to do so.
The air bag system does not need regular maintenance.
1-29
Adding Equipment to Your Air
Bag-Equipped Vehicle
Q:
If I add a push bumper or a bicycle rack to the
front of my vehicle, will it keep the air bags
from working properly?
A:
As long as the push bumper or bicycle rack is
attached to your vehicle so that the vehicle’s basic
structure isn’t changed, it’s not likely to keep the
air bags from working properly in a crash.
Q:
Is there anything I might add to the front of the
vehicle that could keep the air bags from
working properly?
A:
Yes. If you add things that change your vehicle’s
frame, bumper system, front end sheet metal or
height, they may keep the air bag system from
working properly. Also, the air bag system may not
work properly if you relocate any of the air bag
sensors. If you have any questions about this, you
should contact Customer Assistance before you
modify your vehicle. (The phone numbers and
addresses for Customer Assistance are in Step Two of
the Customer Satisfaction Procedure in this manual.
See “Customer Satisfaction Procedure” in the Index.)
1-30
Rear Seat Passengers
It’s very important for rear seat passengers to buckle up!
Accident statistics show that unbelted people in the rear
seat are hurt more often in crashes than those who are
wearing safety belts.
Rear passengers who aren’t safety belted can be thrown
out of the vehicle in a crash. And they can strike others
in the vehicle who are wearing safety belts.
Rear Seat Outside Passenger Positions
Lap-Shoulder Belt
The positions next to the windows have lap-shoulder
belts. Here’s how to wear one properly.
When the shoulder belt is pulled out all the way, it will
lock. If it does, let it go back all the way and start again.
If the belt is not long enough, see “Safety Belt
Extender” at the end of this section.
Make sure the release button on the buckle is
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
1. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.
Don’t let it get twisted.
2. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.
3. To make the lap part tight, pull down on the buckle
end of the belt as you pull up on the shoulder part.
1-31
The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on
the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this applies
force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be less
likely to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it, the
belt would apply force at your abdomen. This could
cause serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder belt
should go over the shoulder and across the chest.
These parts of the body are best able to take belt
restraining forces.
The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or a crash.
Each position next to the windows has a shoulder belt
height adjuster. Move the shoulder belt height adjuster
to the height that is right for you.
1-32
To move the height adjuster down, push in at the word
PRESS and move the height adjuster to the desired
position. You can move the adjuster up just by pushing up
on the shoulder belt guide. After you move the adjuster to
where you want it, try to move it down without pushing in
to make sure it has locked into position.
Adjust the height so that the shoulder portion of the belt is
centered on your shoulder. The belt should be away from
your face and neck, but not falling off your shoulder.
CAUTION:
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt is
too loose. In a crash, you would move forward
too much, which could increase injury. The
shoulder belt should fit against your body.
1-33
Rear Safety Belt Comfort Guides for
Children and Small Adults
Rear shoulder belt comfort guides will provide added
safety belt comfort for children who have outgrown
child restraints and for small adults. When installed on a
shoulder belt, the comfort guide pulls the belt away
from the neck and head.
There is one guide for each outside passenger position in
the rear seat. To provide added safety belt comfort for
children who have outgrown child restraints and for
smaller adults, the comfort guides may be installed on
the shoulder belts. Here’s how to install a comfort guide
and use the safety belt:
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.
1-34
1. Remove the guide from its storage clip on the side of
the seatback.
2. Slide the guide under and past the belt. The elastic
cord must be under the belt. Then, place the guide
over the belt, and insert the two edges of the belt into
the slots of the guide.
1-35
3. Be sure that the belt is not twisted and it lies flat.
The elastic cord must be under the belt and the guide
on top.
4. Buckle, position and release the safety belt as
described in “Rear Seat Outside Passenger Positions”
earlier in this section. Make sure that the shoulder
belt crosses the shoulder.
To remove and store the comfort guides, squeeze the
belt edges together so that you can take them out from
the guides. Slide the guide onto the storage clip.
Make sure you remove the comfort guide from the belt
before you fold a rear seat down.
1-36
Center Passenger Position
Lap Belt
When you sit in the center seating position, you have a
lap safety belt, which has no retractor. To make the belt
longer, tilt the latch plate and pull it along the belt.
1-37
Children
Everyone in a vehicle needs protection! That includes
infants and all children smaller than adult size. Neither
the distance traveled nor the age and size of the traveler
changes the need, for everyone, to use safety restraints.
In fact, the law in every state in the United States and in
every Canadian province says children up to some age
must be restrained while in a vehicle.
Smaller Children and Babies
CAUTION:
To make the belt shorter, pull its free end as shown until
the belt is snug.
Buckle, position and release it the same way as the lap
part of a lap-shoulder belt. If the belt isn’t long enough,
see “Safety Belt Extender” at the end of this section.
Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned
so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly
if you ever had to.
1-38
Children who are up against, or very close to, any
air bag when it inflates can be seriously injured
or killed. Air bags plus lap-shoulder belts offer
the best protection for adults, but not for young
children and infants. Neither the vehicle’s safety
belt system nor its air bag system is designed for
them. Young children and infants need the
protection that a child restraint system can
provide. Always secure children properly in
your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Smaller children and babies should always be
restrained in a child or infant restraint. The
instructions for the restraint will say whether it is
the right type and size for your child. A very
young child’s hip bones are so small that a
regular belt might not stay low on the hips, as it
should. Instead, the belt will likely be over the
child’s abdomen. In a crash, the belt would apply
force right on the child’s abdomen, which could
cause serious or fatal injuries. So, be sure that
any child small enough for one is always properly
restrained in a child or infant restraint.
Infants need complete support, including support for the
head and neck. This is necessary because an infant’s
neck is weak and its head weighs so much compared
with the rest of its body. In a frontal crash, an infant in a
rear-facing restraint settles into the restraint, so the crash
forces can be distributed across the strongest part of the
infant’s body, the back and shoulders. A baby should be
secured in an appropriate infant restraint. This is so
important that many hospitals today won’t release a
newborn infant to its parents unless there is an infant
restraint available for the baby’s first trip in a
motor vehicle.
1-39
CAUTION: (Continued)
at only 25 mph (40 km/h), a 12-lb. (5.5 kg) baby
will suddenly become a 240-lb. (110 kg) force on
your arms. The baby would be almost impossible
to hold.
Secure the baby in an infant restraint.
CAUTION:
Never hold a baby in your arms while riding in a
vehicle. A baby doesn’t weigh much -- until a
crash. During a crash a baby will become so
heavy you can’t hold it. For example, in a crash
CAUTION: (Continued)
1-40
Child Restraints
Every time infants and young children ride in
vehicles, they should have protection provided by
appropriate restraints.
Q:
What are the different types of add-on
child restraints?
A:
Add-on child restraints are available in four basic
types. When selecting a child restraint, take into
consideration not only the child’s weight and size,
but also whether or not the restraint will be
compatible with the motor vehicle in which it
will be used.
An infant car bed (A) is a special bed made for use
in a motor vehicle. It’s an infant restraint system
designed to restrain or position a child on a
continuous flat surface. With an infant car bed,
make sure that the infant’s head rests toward the
center of the vehicle.
1-41
A rear-facing infant restraint (B) positions an infant
to face the rear of the vehicle. Rear-facing infant
restraints are designed for infants of up to about
20 lbs. (9 kg) and about one year of age. This type
of restraint faces the rear so that the infant’s head,
neck and body can have the support they need in
a frontal crash. Some infant seats come in two
parts -- the base stays secured in the vehicle and
the seat part is removable.
1-42
A forward-facing child restraint (C-E) positions
a child upright to face forward in the vehicle.
These forward-facing restraints are designed to
help protect children who are from 20 to 40 lbs.
(9 to 18 kg) and about 26 to 40 inches
(66 to 102 cm) in height, or up to around four
years of age. One type, a convertible restraint, is
designed to be used either as a rear-facing infant
seat or a forward-facing child seat.
1-43
When choosing a child restraint, be sure the child
restraint is designed to be used in a vehicle. If it is, it
will have a label saying that it meets federal motor
vehicle safety standards.
Then follow the instructions for the restraint. You may
find these instructions on the restraint itself or in a
booklet, or both. These restraints use the belt system in
your vehicle, but the child also has to be secured within
the restraint to help reduce the chance of personal injury.
The instructions that come with the infant or child
restraint will show you how to do that. Both the owner’s
manual and the child restraint instructions are important,
so if either one of these is not available, obtain a
replacement copy from the manufacturer.
Where to Put the Restraint
A booster seat (F) is designed for children who
are about 40 to 60 lbs., or even up to 80 lbs.
(18 to 27 kg, or even up to 36 kg), and about
four to eight years of age. A booster seat is
designed to improve the fit of the vehicle’s safety
belt system. Booster seats with shields use
lap-only belts; however, booster seats without
shields use lap-shoulder belts. Booster seats can
also help a child to see out the window.
1-44
Accident statistics show that children are safer if they
are restrained in the rear rather than the front seat. We at
General Motors therefore recommend that you put your
child restraint in a rear seat. Never put a rear-facing
child restraint in the right front passenger seat.
Here’s why:
Top Strap
CAUTION:
A child in a rear-facing child restraint can be
seriously injured or killed if the right front
passenger’s air bag inflates. This is because the
back of the rear-facing child restraint would be
very close to the inflating air bag. Always secure
a rear-facing child restraint in a rear seat.
You may secure a forward-facing child restraint
in the right front seat, but before you do, always
move the front passenger seat as far back as it
will go. It’s better to secure the child restraint in
a rear seat.
Wherever you install it, be sure to secure the child
restraint properly.
Keep in mind that an unsecured child restraint can move
around in a collision or sudden stop and injure people in
the vehicle. Be sure to properly secure any child
restraint in your vehicle -- even when no child is in it.
In Canada, the law requires that forward-facing child
restraints have a top strap, and that the strap be
anchored. In the United States, some child restraints also
have a top strap. If your child restraint has a top strap, it
should be anchored.
Anchor brackets for the rear outside seat positions are
located on the floor in the cargo area.
1-45
CAUTION:
Routing the top strap for a child restraint over or
under the cargo security shade could cause the
shade to come loose and even break. If this
happens, the shade could be thrown about the
vehicle in a collision or sudden maneuver. You or
others could be injured. When anchoring a top
strap to a cargo tiedown, be sure to remove the
cargo security shade from your vehicle. See
“Cargo Security Shade” in the Index.
Don’t use the front set of tie-down brackets. Anchor the
top strap to the rearmost bracket on the same side of the
vehicle as the child restraint. If you need to have an
anchor bracket installed for the center rear seat, you can
ask your dealer to put it in for you. This work will be
done for you free of charge. If you want to install the
anchor yourself, your dealer can tell you how to do it.
1-46
Securing a Child Restraint in a Rear
Outside Seat Position
You’ll be using the lap-shoulder belt. See the earlier part
about the top strap if the child restraint has one. Be sure
to follow the instructions that came with the child
restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when and
as the instructions say.
1. Put the restraint on the seat.
2. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder
portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or
around the restraint. The child restraint instructions
will show you how.
3. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
If the shoulder belt goes in front of the child’s face or
neck, put it behind the child restraint.
1-47
4. Pull the rest of the shoulder belt all the way out of
the retractor to set the lock.
5. To tighten the belt, feed the shoulder belt back into
the retractor while you push down on the child
restraint. If you’re using a forward-facing child
restraint, you may find it helpful to use your knee
to push down on the child restraint as you tighten
the belt.
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different
directions to be sure it is secure.
1-48
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s
safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety belt
will move freely again and be ready to work for an adult
or larger child passenger.
Securing a Child Restraint in the Center
Rear Seat Position
You’ll be using the lap belt. Be sure to follow the
instructions that came with the child restraint. Secure
the child in the child restraint when and as the
instructions say.
See the earlier part about the top strap if the child
restraint has one.
1. Make the belt as long as possible by tilting the latch
plate and pulling it along the belt.
2. Put the restraint on the seat.
3. Run the vehicle’s safety belt through or around the
restraint. The child restraint instructions will show
you how.
1-49
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s
safety belt. It will be ready to work for an adult or larger
child passenger.
Securing a Child Restraint in the Right
Front Seat Position
Your vehicle has a right front passenger air bag. Never
put a rear-facing child restraint in this seat. Here’s why:
4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
5. To tighten the belt, pull its free end while you push
down on the child restraint. If you’re using a
forward-facing child restraint, you may find it
helpful to use your knee to push down on the child
restraint as you tighten the belt.
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different
directions to be sure it is secure.
1-50
CAUTION:
A child in a rear-facing child restraint can be
seriously injured or killed if the right front
passenger’s air bag inflates. This is because the
back of the rear-facing child restraint would be
very close to the inflating air bag. Always secure
a rear-facing child restraint in the rear seat.
Although a rear seat is a safer place, you can secure a
forward-facing child restraint in the right front seat.
You’ll be using the lap-shoulder belt. See the earlier part
about the top strap if the child restraint has one. Be sure
to follow the instructions that came with the child
restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when and
as the instructions say.
1. Because your vehicle has a right front passenger air
bag, always move the seat as far back as it will go
before securing a forward-facing child restraint.
(See “Seats” in the Index.)
2. Put the restraint on the seat.
3. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder
portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or
around the restraint. The child restraint instructions
will show you how.
If the shoulder belt goes in front of the child’s face or
neck, put it behind the child restraint.
1-51
4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
1-52
5. Pull the rest of the lap belt all the way out of the
retractor to set the lock.
6. To tighten the belt, feed the lap belt back into the
retractor while you push down on the child restraint.
You may find it helpful to use your knee to push
down on the child restraint as you tighten the belt.
7. Push and pull the child restraint in different
directions to be sure it is secure.
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s
safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety belt
will move freely again and be ready to work for an adult
or larger child passenger.
1-53
Larger Children
If you have the choice, a child should sit next to a
window so the child can wear a lap-shoulder belt and
get the additional restraint a shoulder belt can provide.
Accident statistics show that children are safer if they
are restrained in the rear seat. But they need to use the
safety belts properly.
D Children who aren’t buckled up can be thrown out in
a crash.
D Children who aren’t buckled up can strike other
people who are.
Children who have outgrown child restraints should
wear the vehicle’s safety belts.
1-54
CAUTION:
Never do this.
Here two children are wearing the same belt. The
belt can’t properly spread the impact forces. In a
crash, the two children can be crushed together
and seriously injured. A belt must be used by
only one person at a time.
Q:
What if a child is wearing a lap-shoulder belt,
but the child is so small that the shoulder belt is
very close to the child’s face or neck?
A:
Move the child toward the center of the vehicle, but
be sure that the shoulder belt still is on the child’s
shoulder, so that in a crash the child’s upper body
would have the restraint that belts provide. If the
child is sitting in a rear seat outside position, see
“Rear Safety Belt Comfort Guides” in the Index.
If the child is so small that the shoulder belt is still
very close to the child’s face or neck, you might
want to place the child in a seat that has a lap belt,
if your vehicle has one.
1-55
CAUTION:
Never do this.
Here a child is sitting in a seat that has a
lap-shoulder belt, but the shoulder part is behind
the child. If the child wears the belt in this way, in
a crash the child might slide under the belt. The
belt’s force would then be applied right on the
child’s abdomen. That could cause serious or
fatal injuries.
Wherever the child sits, the lap portion of the belt
should be worn low and snug on the hips, just touching
the child’s thighs. This applies belt force to the child’s
pelvic bones in a crash.
1-56
Safety Belt Extender
If the vehicle’s safety belt will fasten around you, you
should use it.
But if a safety belt isn’t long enough to fasten, your
dealer will order you an extender. It’s free. When you go
in to order it, take the heaviest coat you will wear, so the
extender will be long enough for you. The extender will
be just for you, and just for the seat in your vehicle that
you choose. Don’t let someone else use it, and use it
only for the seat it is made to fit. To wear it, just attach it
to the regular safety belt.
Checking Your Restraint Systems
Now and then, make sure the safety belt reminder light
and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and
anchorages are working properly. Look for any other
loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see
anything that might keep a safety belt system from
doing its job, have it repaired.
Replacing Restraint System Parts
After a Crash
If you’ve had a crash, do you need new belts?
After a very minor collision, nothing may be necessary.
But if the belts were stretched, as they would be if worn
during a more severe crash, then you need new belts.
If belts are cut or damaged, replace them. Collision
damage also may mean you will need to have safety belt
or seat parts repaired or replaced. New parts and repairs
may be necessary even if the belt wasn’t being used at
the time of the collision.
If an air bag inflates, you’ll need to replace air bag
system parts. See the part on the air bag system earlier in
this section.
Torn or frayed safety belts may not protect you in a
crash. They can rip apart under impact forces. If a belt is
torn or frayed, get a new one right away.
Also look for any opened or broken air bag covers, and
have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system
does not need regular maintenance.)
1-57
✍
1-58
NOTES
Section 2 Features and Controls
Here you can learn about the many standard and optional features on your vehicle, and information on starting,
shifting and braking. Also explained are the instrument panel and the warning systems that tell you if everything is
working properly -- and what to do if you have a problem.
2-2
2-4
2-7
2-11
2-13
2-14
2-17
2-20
2-21
2-22
2-23
2-24
2-26
2-29
2-33
2-34
2-37
2-37
2-38
Keys
Door Locks
Keyless Entry System
Rear Doors
Theft
Theft-Deterrent System
Feature Customization
PasslockR
New Vehicle “Break-In”
Ignition Positions
Starting Your Engine
Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)
Automatic Transmission Operation
Four-Wheel Drive
Parking Brake
Shifting Into PARK (P)
Shifting Out of PARK (P)
Parking Over Things That Burn
Engine
2- Exhaust
2-38
2-39
2-39
2-41
2-41
2-41
2-48
2-51
2-53
2-57
2-63
2-65
2-66
2-69
2-69
2-70
2-72
2-74
Running Your Engine While You’re Parked
Locking Rear Axle
Windows
Horn
Tilt Wheel
Multifunction Lever
Exterior Lamps
Interior Lamps
Mirrors
Storage Compartments
Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter
Sun Visors
HomeLinkR Transmitter
Cellular Telephone (If Equipped)
OnStarR System (If Equipped)
Instrument Panel - Your Information System
Instrument Panel Cluster
Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators
2-1
Keys
CAUTION:
Leaving children in a vehicle with the ignition
key is dangerous for many reasons. A child or
others could be badly injured or even killed.
They could operate the power windows or other
controls or even make the vehicle move. Don’t
leave the keys in a vehicle with children.
2-2
Your vehicle has one
double-sided key for the
ignition and all door locks.
Your vehicle also has a key
that locks and unlocks the
center floor console only.
If you ever lose your key, your dealer will be able to
assist you with obtaining a new one.
2-3
Door Locks
Front Door Locks
There are several ways to lock and unlock your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Unlocked doors can be dangerous.
Passengers -- especially children -- can easily
open the doors and fall out. When a door is
locked, the inside handle won’t open it.
Outsiders can easily enter through an unlocked
door when you slow down or stop your vehicle.
This may not be so obvious: You increase the
chance of being thrown out of the vehicle in a
crash if the doors aren’t locked. Wear safety belts
properly, lock your doors, and you will be far
better off whenever you drive your vehicle.
Side Doors
To open the door from the outside, pull the handle up
and pull the door open.
To open the door from the inside, pull the lever toward
you and push the door open.
2-4
You can use the keyless entry system.
You can also use your key, but your vehicle has a
theft-deterrent system. If it is armed, unlocking and
opening the door this way might set off the alarm. See
“Theft-Deterrent System” in the Index.
From the inside, to lock the
door, slide the lever down.
To unlock the door, slide the
lever up.
Power Door Locks
Press the side of the power
door lock switch marked
LOCK located on either
front door to lock all the
doors at once.
Press the ribbed side of the switch to unlock all the
doors at once. The power door locks will operate at any
time without the ignition being on.
The manual switch on each rear door works only
that door’s lock. It won’t lock (or unlock) all of the
doors -- that’s a safety feature.
On the passenger side of the
rear panel door or tailgate,
there is a power lock switch
which can be used to lock or
unlock all of the doors.
On vehicles with panel doors, if the power lock switch is
pressed with the panel doors open, all of the doors will
lock three seconds after the panel doors are closed. If the
panel doors are closed, the vehicle doors will lock when
a power door lock switch is pressed. The theft-deterrent
system will not re-arm after the panel doors are closed
unless the power lock switch is pressed first.
Operating the power locks may affect the theft-deterrent
system. See “Theft-Deterrent System” in the Index.
2-5
Child Security Locks
Lockout Prevention
With this feature, you can
lock the rear side doors so
they can’t be opened from
the inside by passengers.
To protect you from locking your key in the vehicle, this
feature stops the power door locks from locking when
the keys are in the ignition and a door is open.
If the power lock switch is pressed when a door is
open and the key is in the ignition, none of the doors
will lock.
See “Feature Customization” in the Index for further
information on turning this feature on and off.
Leaving Your Vehicle
Move the button up to engage the security feature.
Move the button down to return the door locks to
normal operation.
2-6
If you are leaving the vehicle, take your keys, open your
door and set the locks from inside. Then get out and
close the door. For information on how to set the door
locks, see “Theft-Deterrent System” and “Feature
Customization” in the Index.
Keyless Entry System
You can lock and unlock your doors, tailgate or panel
doors from about 3 feet (1 m) up to 30 feet (9 m) away
using the remote keyless entry transmitter supplied with
your vehicle.
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) this device may not cause harmful interference,
and (2) this device must accept any interference
received, including interference that may cause
undesired operation.
This device complies with RSS-210 of Industry Canada.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) this device may not cause interference, and (2) this
device must accept any interference received, including
interference that may cause undesired operation of
the device.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than an
authorized service facility could void authorization to
use this equipment.
At times you may notice a decrease in range. This is
normal for any remote keyless entry system. If the
transmitter does not work or if you have to stand closer
to your vehicle for the transmitter to work, try this:
Your keyless entry system operates on a radio frequency
subject to Federal Communications Commission (FCC)
Rules and with Industry Canada.
D Check the distance. You may be too far from your
vehicle. You may need to stand closer during rainy
or snowy weather.
D Check the location. Other vehicles or objects may be
blocking the signal. Take a few steps to the left or
right, hold the transmitter higher, and try again.
2-7
D Check to determine if battery replacement or
transmitter resynchronization is necessary. See the
instructions that follow.
D If you’re still having trouble, see your dealer or a
qualified technician for service.
Operation
The driver’s door will unlock automatically when
UNLOCK is pressed. If UNLOCK is pressed again
within five seconds, the passenger’s doors will also
unlock. All doors will lock when LOCK is pressed.
The tailgate or panel doors will unlock when the
REAR 2X button is pressed twice within five seconds,
as long as the ignition is turned to OFF or the
transmission is in PARK (P).
The system will turn on the interior lamps for about
40 seconds (or until the ignition is turned to RUN),
when you unlock the doors, tailgate or panel doors.
The interior lamps will go off when you lock the doors.
Operating the keyless entry transmitter may interact
with the theft-deterrent system. See “Theft-Deterrent
System” in the Index.
2-8
Alarm/Panic Mode
The theft-deterrent system provides a fourth button on
your transmitter. This button is the alarm/panic button.
If you are involved in a panic situation, press this button
and your vehicle’s horn will sound and the headlamps
will flash. This will draw needed attention to you and
your vehicle. To turn this feature off, either push the
panic button again or turn the ignition to RUN. This
feature will not work if your ignition is on or if the
transmitter is 30 feet (9 m) or more away from
your vehicle.
Transmitter Verification
This feature provides feedback to the holder of the
keyless entry transmitter that a command has been
received by the keyless entry receiver. The headlamps
and parking lamps will flash on every lock and unlock
command and the horn will sound only if the LOCK
button is pressed twice within five seconds. This allows
for silent operation of locking and unlocking, unless a
confirming horn chirp is desired. Other options may be
selected for this feature (see “Feature Customization” in
the Index).
Matching Transmitter(s) To Your Vehicle
Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to
prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle.
If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be
purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring any
remaining transmitters with you when you go to your
dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement
transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters
must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the
new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock your
vehicle. Each vehicle can have only four transmitters
matched to it.
3. Turn the ignition from OFF to RUN three times
quickly (within five seconds). The vehicle will
respond by locking the doors, unlocking the driver’s
doors and releasing the tailgate or panel doors. Your
transmitter is now ready to match the vehicle.
4. Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on
the first transmitter for 15 seconds. The vehicle will
respond as in Step 3.
5. Repeat Step 4 for the remaining transmitters.
6. When you have finished matching all of your
transmitters, replace the RADIO fuse (Fuse 17).
Have each transmitter you intend to match ready for the
next steps. To match transmitters to your vehicle:
7. Check that all transmitters work by pressing
their buttons.
1. Turn the ignition to RUN, then to OFF. This will
disarm the theft-deterrent system.
If the transmitters don’t work, or if you’d rather not
match the transmitters yourself, see your dealer.
2. Remove the RADIO fuse (Fuse 17). This fuse is
located in the main fuse block, which is located on
the left side of your main instrument panel. When
the fuse block is open the radio fuse is located on the
lower right hand corner of your instrument panel.
See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.
2-9
Battery Replacement
To replace the battery:
Under normal use, the battery in your transmitter should
last about two years.
You can tell the battery is weak if the transmitter won’t
work at the normal range in any location. If you have to
get close to your vehicle before the transmitter works,
it’s probably time to change the battery.
NOTICE:
When replacing the battery, use care not to touch
any of the circuitry. Static from your body
transferred to these surfaces may damage
the transmitter.
Use one three volt, type CR2032, or equivalent battery.
1. Insert a small coin, or flathead screwdriver, to
separate the bottom of the transmitter from the top.
2. Remove the battery and replace it with a new one,
making sure the positive (+) side of the battery is
facing down.
3. Snap the top and bottom together.
4. Test the operation of the transmitter with your
vehicle. If the transmitter does not work, try
synchronizing the transmitter with the receiver.
2-10
Resynchronization
Resynchronization may be necessary due to the security
method used by this system. The transmitter does not
send the same signal twice to the receiver. The receiver
will not respond to a signal it has been sent previously.
This prevents anyone from recording and playing back
the signal from the transmitter.
To resynchronize your transmitter, stand close to your
vehicle and simultaneously press and hold the LOCK
and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter for at least
eight seconds. The door locks should cycle and the
parking lamps and headlamps should flash to confirm
synchronization. If this does not happen, you may need
to replace the battery in your transmitter or match the
transmitter to your vehicle. If the locks still do not cycle,
see your dealer for service.
Rear Doors
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to drive with the tailgate
glass, tailgate or rear doors open because carbon
monoxide (CO) gas can come into your vehicle.
You can’t see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If you must drive with the tailgate glass, tailgate
or rear doors open or if electrical wiring or other
cable connections must pass through the seal
between the body and the tailgate glass, tailgate
or rear doors:
D Make sure all other windows are shut.
D Turn the fan on your heating or cooling
system to its highest speed with the setting on
VENT. That will force outside air into your
vehicle. See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.
D If you have air outlets on or under the
instrument panel, open them all the way.
See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.
2-11
Tailgate Glass and Tailgate (If Equipped)
Panel Doors (If Equipped)
If your vehicle has a tailgate, you must raise the rear
glass before lowering the tailgate.
To open the rear panel doors, you must first open the
passenger’s side panel door and then pull the handles to
open the doors.
To open the glass from the outside, use your key. With
the key in the lock, turn the key clockwise to release the
glass, then lift it up.
The doors may be unlocked with the key, power door
lock switch, or keyless entry system.
To release the glass from the inside, use the electric
tailgate glass release switch on the instrument panel.
For more information, see “Tailgate -- Electric Glass
Release” in the Index.
The rear doors have a check assembly to keep them
from fully opening during normal use.
To open the tailgate, lift up on the handle while pulling
the tailgate toward you.
1. Open the door partway until the white mark on the
check strap is fully outside the door edge. If the end
of the strap catches the pin on the door, the door is
open too far.
Close the tailgate before closing the rear glass. After
closing the tailgate, make sure the tailgate is securely
latched by pulling it toward you. After closing the rear
glass, pull up on its handle to make sure it is locked.
2-12
To fully open either rear door, you must release the
check strap. To release the check strap just:
2. Then, hold the strap at
the white mark, pull the
strap toward you and
open the door all
the way.
Theft
Vehicle theft is big business, especially in some cities.
Although your vehicle has a number of theft-deterrent
features, we know that nothing we put on it can make
it impossible to steal. However, there are ways you
can help.
Key in the Ignition
If you leave your vehicle with the keys inside, it’s an
easy target for joy riders or professional thieves -- so
don’t do it.
To re-engage the door check strap, just close the door
and the strap will catch the pin.
To close the doors, close the driver’s side door first.
After securely closing the door, close the passenger’s
side door. Make sure both doors are latched securely.
To lock the rear doors from outside the vehicle, put your
key in the lock and turn it clockwise. If you have power
door locks, you can lock the side doors as well as the
rear doors from inside the vehicle. For more
information, see “Power Door Locks” earlier in
this section.
When you park your vehicle and open the driver’s door,
you’ll hear a chime reminding you to remove your key
from the ignition and take it with you. Always do this.
Your steering wheel will be locked, and so will your
ignition and transmission. Also remember to lock
the doors.
Parking at Night
Park in a lighted spot, close all windows and lock your
vehicle. Remember to keep your valuables out of sight.
Put them in a storage area, or take them with you.
2-13
Parking Lots
Shock Sensor
If you park in a lot where someone will be watching
your vehicle, it’s best to lock it up and take your keys.
But what if you have to leave your ignition key? What if
you have to leave something valuable in your vehicle?
A shock sensor triggers the alarm when it detects a blow
to your vehicle. It is located in the center floor console.
There are two levels of alarms via the shock sensor:
two horn blasts and the headlamp/parking lamps flash
for non-threatening blows to the vehicle or a full
two-minute alarm for harder blows to the vehicle. Its
sensitivity can be adjusted if more or less sensitivity is
desired. If sensitivity is increased too much, it may give
false alarms caused by gusts of wind or other natural
events that may shake the vehicle.
D Put your valuables in a storage area, like your
glove box.
D Take the remote keyless entry system transmitter
with you.
D Lock all the doors except the driver’s.
Theft-Deterrent System
Your vehicle has a theft-deterrent alarm system. Once
armed, the system will sound the horn and flash the
parking lamps if the vehicle is tampered with.
Opening the doors may activate the alarm. See
“Disarming the System” later in this section for further
information on turning the system off.
2-14
The adjustment for the
shock sensor sensitivity can
be accessed through a hole
in the forward wall of the
main bin of the center
floor console.
Using a small flat-tipped screwdriver, turn the
adjuster clockwise to increase sensitivity and turn
counterclockwise to decrease sensitivity. The shock
sensor is ignored by the alarm system when the ignition
is on, when the tailgate or panel doors are open, when
the alarm is disarmed, when customized to be ignored
and for five seconds after the horn sounds an alarm or
chirp. The shock sensor is ignored after triggering three
full alarms until the system is rearmed.
Arming the System
The alarm system can be armed to detect break-ins by
locking your vehicle using the keyless entry or by
locking the doors with the power door lock switch.
Passive arming is also available if you would like the
system to arm all by itself after the doors have been
closed for a short time. See “Feature Customization” in
the Index. When the system is armed, a red light will
flash on the center floor console briefly once every two
seconds. If you return to your vehicle and the red light is
flashing two brief flashes every two seconds, the system
is armed and the shock sensor had triggered a two
minute alarm. If the red light is flashing three times
every two seconds, the system is armed and there was an
intrusion that sounded the alarm.
Horn chirps and parking lamp flashes can be set to
your choice.
Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Locking
If all the doors are closed, locking the vehicle with the
transmitter will immediately arm the system. The horn
will chirp twice and the headlamps and parking lamps
will flash, confirming that the system is armed if that
mode is selected. If any door is open when the
transmitter LOCK button is pressed, the system goes
into an armed wait mode, waiting for the doors to close.
Once they are closed, the system will arm and the
headlamps and parking lamps will flash. If the tailgate
or panel doors are open or ajar at the time the system is
arming, the headlamps and parking lamps flash once.
Power Door Lock Switch Locking
If any door is open when the power door lock switch is
pressed, the system goes into an armed wait mode,
waiting for the doors to close. Once they are closed, the
system will arm and the parking lamps will flash. If both
of the doors are closed when the power lock switch is
pressed, the system assumes you are inside the vehicle,
so it will not arm. Locking the doors by using the
manual door locks will not arm the system.
2-15
Passive Arming
Turning Off the Alarm
If the LOCK button on the keyless entry transmitter or
the power door lock switch is pressed, the system will
arm immediately. If the ignition was just turned off and
a door was opened, the system will arm six seconds after
the doors, tailgate or panel doors are closed, whether or
not you lock them with the manual door lock. If a door
is opened without the ignition being turned on, the
system will wait 30 seconds after the doors, tailgate or
panel doors are closed before arming, allowing you time
to get into the vehicle and put the key in the ignition.
The parking lamps will flash when the system arms.
Passive arming is not enabled from the factory.
If you started the alarm by pressing the panic button on the
keyless entry transmitter, you must either push that button
again or turn the ignition to RUN to stop the alarm.
Disarming the System
There are two ways to disarm the system:
1. Press the UNLOCK button on the keyless entry
transmitter. If the horn chirps two or three times
when you unlock the vehicle, the alarm sounded in
your absence. Two chirps means that the shock
sensor was set off and three chirps means that a door,
tailgate or the panel doors were opened.
2. Turn the ignition to RUN with the proper key.
For more information on customizing the features
mentioned here, see “Feature Customization” in the Index.
2-16
If the alarm is sounding due to the shock sensor or a
door, tailgate or panel door opening, it can be turned off
by either turning the ignition switch with a proper key
inserted or by pressing any button on the keyless entry
transmitter. If you use your keyless entry transmitter to
silence the alarm, additional things will happen
depending upon which button you press.
D Pressing the UNLOCK button will turn the alarm
off, unlock the driver’s door and disarm the system.
D Pressing the LOCK button will turn the alarm off,
keep the doors locked and keep the system armed.
D Pressing the REAR 2X button will turn the alarm off
and disarm the system.
D Pressing the panic button will turn the alarm off,
keep the doors locked and keep the system armed.
If the alarm is sounding because an incorrect ignition
key was used, press any button on the keyless entry
transmitter to turn the alarm off.
The alarm will stop by itself after two minutes.
Feature Customization
Your vehicle’s locks and lighting systems can be
programmed with several different features. The following
list tells you the features that can be programmed.
D
D
D
D
D
Lockout Prevention
Keyless Entry Verification
Theft-Deterrent Arming Method
Theft-Deterrent Arming Verification
Driver’s Door Alarm Delay
To program features, your vehicle must be in the
programming mode. Follow these steps:
1. Put your key in the ignition.
2. Turn the ignition to RUN to disarm the
theft-deterrent system.
3. Turn the ignition to OFF.
4. Remove the RADIO fuse (Fuse 17). This fuse is in
the main fuse block, located on the left side of your
instrument panel. When the main fuse block is open,
the RADIO fuse (Fuse 17) is located in the lower
right corner side of the fuse panel. See “Fuses and
Circuit Breakers” in the Index.
5. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY.
You should hear two chimes to verify that the system
is in programming mode. You will also be able to set
Keyless Entry Verification, Arming Method, Arming
Verification, Driver’s Door Delay, Shock Sensor
Enable and Lockout Prevention.
Lockout Prevention
Your vehicle comes with this feature set in Mode 2.
This means that your power door locks will not lock
when the keys are in the ignition and a door is open.
To change the factory setting, do the following:
1. Press the LOCK switch on the door.
2. Count the number of chimes you hear. The number
of chimes tells you which mode your vehicle is
set for.
3. Press the LOCK switch on the door until you hear
the number of chimes that correspond to the mode
selection you want.
Mode 1: Both Off (Doors will lock/unlock when you
press the power door lock switch).
Mode 2: Lockout Prevention Enabled
2-17
Keyless Entry Verification
Your vehicle comes with this feature set in Mode 5. This
means that when you use the keyless entry transmitter to
lock/unlock your vehicle, your headlamps and parking
lamps will flash briefly upon the first press on LOCK.
Your horn will sound briefly and your headlamps and
parking lamps will flash briefly upon the second press
on LOCK. Your headlamps and parking lamps will flash
briefly upon any press on UNLOCK. To change the
factory setting, do the following:
1. Press the UNLOCK button on the keyless
entry transmitter.
2. Count the number of chimes you hear. The number
of chimes tells you which mode your vehicle is
set for.
3. Press the UNLOCK button on the keyless entry
transmitter until you hear the number of chimes that
correspond to the mode selection you want.
2-18
Mode 1: All Off (The headlamps will not flash and the
horn will not sound to provide you feedback that a
lock/unlock command has been received by the keyless
entry transmitter.)
Mode 2: Horn and Lamps/Lamps (Your horn will sound
briefly and your headlamps and parking lamps will flash
when you press LOCK on the keyless entry transmitter.
Only your headlamps and parking lamps will flash when
you press UNLOCK.)
Mode 3: Horn and Lamps (Your horn will sound briefly
and your headlamps and parking lamps will flash every
time you push LOCK or UNLOCK.)
Mode 4: Lamps (Your headlamps and parking lamps
will flash every time you press LOCK or UNLOCK.)
Mode 5: Lamps/Horn and Lamps/Lamps (Your
headlamps and parking lamps will flash upon the first
press on LOCK, your headlamps and parking lamps will
flash and your horn will sound upon the second press on
LOCK and your headlamps and parking lamps will flash
upon any press on UNLOCK.)
Theft-Deterrent Arming Method
Your vehicle comes with this feature set in Mode 3. This
means that both your keyless entry transmitter and the
power door lock switch will actively arm the system.
To change the factory setting, do the following:
1. Press the UNLOCK switch on the door.
2. Count the number of chimes you hear. The number
of chimes tells you which mode your vehicle is
set for.
3. Press the UNLOCK switch on the door until you
hear the number of chimes that correspond to the
mode selection you want.
Mode 1: Alarm System Off (The system will not arm.)
Mode 2: Keyless Entry Transmitter Lock (When you
lock your doors using the keyless entry transmitter, the
system will arm.)
Mode 3: Keyless Entry Transmitter/Power Door Lock
Switch (If you use either the keyless entry transmitter or
the power door lock switch to lock the doors, the system
will arm.)
Mode 4: Passive arming and Keyless Entry
Transmitter/Power Door Lock Switch Arming
(The system will arm itself after all doors are closed,
plus arming per mode 3.)
Theft-Deterrent Arming Verification
Your vehicle comes with the theft-deterrent arming
verification set in Mode 3. This means that if you arm
the system using the keyless entry transmitter, your
headlamps and parking lamps will flash and your horn
will chirp twice to verify that the system is armed. If it
only chirps once, the tailgate or the panel doors are open
or unlatched. In addition, if the system did not arm, the
horn will chirp once and the theft-deterrent indicator on
the center floor console will not flash. If you arm the
system using either the power door lock switch or by
passive arming, only the headlamps and parking lamps
will flash for verification. To change the factory setting,
do the following:
1. Press the LOCK switch on the keyless
entry transmitter.
2. Count the number of chimes you hear. The number
of chimes tells you which mode your vehicle is
set for.
3. Press the LOCK switch on the keyless entry
transmitter until you hear the number of chimes that
corresponds to the mode selection you want.
2-19
Mode 1: All Off (No horn chirps or headlamps and
parking lamps will flash.)
Driver’s Door Alarm Delay
Mode 2: Horn and Lamps (Your headlamps and parking
lamps will flash and your horn will chirp twice to verify
the system is armed using any arming method.)
Headlamps and parking lamps only will flash
when disarming.
Leaving Programming Mode
Mode 3: Horn and Lamps/Lamps (If you use the keyless
entry transmitter to arm the system, your headlamps and
parking lamps will flash and your horn will chirp twice
to verify that the system is armed. If you use either
the power door lock switch or passive arming, only
your headlamps and parking lamps will flash for
verification.) The headlamps and parking lamps will
flash only when disarming.
Mode 4: Lamps (When your vehicle arms, only
your headlamps and parking lamps will flash for
verification.) The headlamps and parking lamps will
flash only when disarming.
2-20
If you open the driver’s door using your key, the alarm
will not sound for eight seconds.
When programming is done, turn the ignition to OFF
and replace the RADIO fuse (Fuse 17).
PasslockR
Your vehicle is equipped with the Passlock
theft-deterrent system.
Passlock is a passive theft-deterrent system. Passlock
enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a
valid key. If a correct key is not used or the ignition lock
cylinder is tampered with, fuel is disabled.
During normal operation, the SECURITY light will go
off approximately five seconds after the key is turned to
the RUN ignition position.
If the engine stalls and the SECURITY light flashes,
wait until the light stops flashing before trying to restart
the engine. Remember to release the key from START
as soon as the engine starts.
If the engine is running and the SECURITY light comes
on, you will be able to restart the engine if you turn the
engine off. However, your Passlock system is not
working properly and must be serviced by your dealer.
Your vehicle is not protected by Passlock at this time.
You may also want to check the fuse (see “Fuses and
Circuit Breakers” in the Index). See your dealer
for service.
In an emergency, call the GMC Roadside Assistance
Center at 1-800-GMC-8782 (1-800-462-8782) in
the United States, or 1-800-268-6800 in Canada.
New Vehicle “Break-In”
NOTICE:
Your vehicle doesn’t need an elaborate
“break-in.” But it will perform better in the long
run if you follow these guidelines:
D Keep your speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) or
less for the first 500 miles (805 km).
D Don’t drive at any one speed -- fast or
slow -- for the first 500 miles (805 km).
Don’t make full-throttle starts.
D Avoid making hard stops for the first
200 miles (322 km) or so. During this time
your new brake linings aren’t yet broken
in. Hard stops with new linings can mean
premature wear and earlier replacement.
Follow this breaking-in guideline every
time you get new brake linings.
D Don’t tow a trailer during break-in.
See “Towing a Trailer” in the Index for
more information.
2-21
Ignition Positions
You can use your key to turn your ignition switch to five
different positions.
LOCK (B): This position locks your ignition, steering
wheel and transmission. It’s a theft-deterrent feature.
You will only be able to remove your key when the
ignition is turned to LOCK.
OFF (C): This position lets you turn off the engine, but
still turn the steering wheel. It doesn’t lock the steering
wheel like LOCK. Use OFF if you must have your
vehicle in motion while the engine is off (for example, if
your vehicle is being pushed).
RUN (D): This is the position for driving.
START (E): This starts your engine.
NOTICE:
ACCESSORY (A): This position lets you use things
like the radio, power windows and the windshield
wipers when the engine is off. Push in the key and turn
it toward you. Your steering wheel will remain locked,
just as it was before you inserted the key.
2-22
If your key seems stuck in LOCK and you can’t
turn it, be sure you are using the correct key; if
so, is it all the way in? If it is, then turn the
steering wheel left and right while you turn the
key hard. But turn the key only with your hand.
Using a tool to force it could break the key or the
ignition switch. If none of this works, then your
vehicle needs service.
Retained Accessory Power
How to Start the Engine
Your vehicle is equipped with a Retained Accessory
Power (RAP) feature which will allow certain features
of your vehicle to continue to work up to 20 minutes
after the ignition key is turned to OFF.
1. Without pushing the accelerator pedal, turn your
ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let
go of the key. The idle speed will go down as your
engine gets warm.
Your radio, power windows and console accessories will
work when the ignition key is turned to RUN or
ACCESSORY. Once the key is turned from RUN to
OFF, these features will continue to work for up to
20 minutes or until a door is opened.
Starting Your Engine
Move your shift lever to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N).
Your engine won’t start in any other position -- that’s a
safety feature. To restart when you’re already moving,
use NEUTRAL (N) only.
NOTICE:
Don’t try to shift to PARK (P) if your vehicle is
moving. If you do, you could damage the
transmission. Shift to PARK (P) only when your
vehicle is stopped.
NOTICE:
Holding your key in START for longer than
15 seconds at a time will cause your battery to
be drained much sooner. And the excessive heat
can damage your starter motor. Wait about
15 seconds between each try to help avoid
draining your battery or damaging your starter.
2. If it doesn’t start right away, hold your key in
START. If it doesn’t start in 10 seconds, push the
accelerator pedal all the way down for five more
seconds, unless it starts sooner.
2-23
3. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then
stops), wait 15 seconds and start over.
When the engine starts, let go of the key and the
accelerator pedal.
Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)
In very cold weather,
0_F (-18_C) or colder,
the engine coolant heater
can help.
NOTICE:
Your engine is designed to work with the
electronics in your vehicle. If you add electrical
parts or accessories, you could change the way
the engine operates. Before adding electrical
equipment, check with your dealer. If you don’t,
your engine might not perform properly.
If you ever have to have your vehicle towed, see
the part of this manual that tells how to do it
without damaging your vehicle. See “Towing
Your Vehicle” in the Index.
2-24
You’ll get easier starting and better fuel economy during
engine warm-up. Usually, the coolant heater should be
plugged in a minimum of four hours prior to starting
your vehicle.
To Use the Engine Coolant Heater
1. Turn off the engine.
2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord.
The engine coolant heater electrical cord is located
on the driver’s side of the engine compartment, near
the power steering reservoir.
3. Plug it into a normal, grounded 110-volt AC outlet.
CAUTION:
4. Before starting the engine, be sure to unplug and
store the cord as it was before to keep it away from
moving engine parts. If you don’t, it could
be damaged.
How long should you keep the coolant heater plugged
in? The answer depends on the outside temperature, the
kind of oil you have, and some other things. Instead of
trying to list everything here, we ask that you contact
your dealer in the area where you’ll be parking your
vehicle. The dealer can give you the best advice for that
particular area.
Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet
could cause an electrical shock. Also, the wrong
kind of extension cord could overheat and cause
a fire. You could be seriously injured. Plug the
cord into a properly grounded three-prong
110-volt AC outlet. If the cord won’t reach, use a
heavy-duty three-prong extension cord rated for
at least 15 amps.
2-25
Automatic Transmission Operation
There are several different positions for your shift lever.
Your vehicle features an electronic shift position indicator
within the instrument cluster. This display must be
powered anytime the shift lever is capable of being moved
out of PARK (P). This means that if your key is in OFF,
rather than LOCK, there will be a small current drain on
your battery which could discharge your battery over a
period of time. If you need to leave your key in the
ignition in OFF for an extended period for any reason, it is
recommended that you disconnect the battery cable from
the battery to prevent discharging your battery.
PARK (P): This locks your rear wheels. It’s the best
position to use when you start your engine because your
vehicle can’t move easily.
2-26
CAUTION:
It is dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the
shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
Don’t leave your vehicle when the engine is
running unless you have to. If you have left the
engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.
You or others could be injured. To be sure your
vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly
level ground, always set your parking brake and
move the shift lever to PARK (P).
See “Shifting Into PARK (P)” in the Index. If you
have four-wheel drive, your vehicle will be free to
roll -- even if your shift lever is in PARK (P) -- if
your transfer case is in NEUTRAL. So, be sure
the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in
NEUTRAL. See “Four-Wheel Drive (Automatic
Transfer Case)” in the Index. If you’re pulling a
trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
REVERSE (R): Use this gear to back up.
CAUTION:
NOTICE:
Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle is
moving forward could damage your
transmission. Shift to REVERSE (R) only
after your vehicle is stopped.
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow,
ice or sand without damaging your transmission, see
“Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow” in the Index.
NEUTRAL (N): In this position, your engine doesn’t
connect with the wheels. To restart when you’re already
moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only. Also, use
NEUTRAL (N) when your vehicle is being towed.
Shifting out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) while
your engine is “racing” (running at high speed) is
dangerous. Unless your foot is firmly on the
brake pedal, your vehicle could move very
rapidly. You could lose control and hit people or
objects. Don’t shift out of PARK (P) or
NEUTRAL (N) while your engine is racing.
NOTICE:
Damage to your transmission caused by shifting
out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) with the
engine racing isn’t covered by your warranty.
2-27
B
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE ( ): This position is for
normal driving. If you need more power for passing,
and you’re:
D Going less than about 35 mph (56 km/h), push your
accelerator pedal about halfway down.
D Going about 35 mph (56 km/h) or more, push the
accelerator all the way down.
You’ll shift down to the next gear and have
more power.
B
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE ( ) can be used when
towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load, driving on steep
hills or for off-road driving. You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often.
THIRD (3): This position is also used for normal
driving, however, it offers more power and lower fuel
economy than AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE ( ).
B
SECOND (2): This position gives you more power but
lower fuel economy. You can use SECOND (2) on hills.
It can help control your speed as you go down steep
mountain roads, but then you would also want to use
your brakes off and on.
2-28
If you manually select SECOND (2), the transmission
will drive in second gear. You may use this feature for
reducing torque to the rear wheels when you are trying to
start your vehicle from a stop on slippery road surfaces.
FIRST (1): This position gives you even more power
(but lower fuel economy) than SECOND (2). You can
use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the
selector lever is put in FIRST (1) while the vehicle is
moving forward, the transmission won’t shift into first
gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
NOTICE:
If your rear wheels can’t rotate, don’t try to
drive. This might happen if you were stuck in
very deep sand or mud or were up against a solid
object. You could damage your transmission.
Also, if you stop when going uphill, don’t hold your
vehicle there with only the accelerator pedal. This
could overheat and damage the transmission. Use
your brakes or shift into PARK (P) to hold your
vehicle in position on a hill.
Four-Wheel Drive
Front Axle Locking Feature
Your vehicle has four-wheel drive. You can send your
engine’s driving power to all four wheels for extra
traction. To get the most satisfaction out of four-wheel
drive, you must be familiar with its operation. Read the
section that follows before using four-wheel drive. You
should use 2HI for most normal driving conditions.
The front axle locks and unlocks automatically when
you shift the transfer case. Some delay for the axle to
lock or unlock is normal.
Automatic Transfer Case
NOTICE:
Driving in the 4HI or 4LO positions for a long
time on dry or wet pavement could shorten the
life of your vehicle’s drivetrain.
2-29
engage four-wheel drive. Driving in this mode results in
lower fuel economy than 2HI.
4HI: Use 4HI when you need extra traction, such as on
snowy or icy roads or in most off-road situations. This
setting also engages your front axle to help drive
your vehicle.
4LO: This setting also engages your front axle and
delivers extra torque. You may never need 4LO. It sends
maximum power to all four wheels. You might choose
4LO if you are driving off-road in deep sand, deep mud,
deep snow and climbing or descending steep hills.
The transfer case switches are below and to the left of
the climate controls. Use these switches to shift into and
out of four-wheel drive. You can choose among four
driving settings:
2HI: This setting is used for driving in most situations.
Your front axle is not engaged in two-wheel drive.
This setting also provides the best fuel economy.
AUTO 4WD: This setting is ideal for use when road
conditions are variable. When driving your vehicle in
AUTO 4WD, the front axle is engaged, but the vehicle’s
power is sent only to the rear wheels. When the vehicle
senses a loss of traction, the system will automatically
2-30
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P). You or someone else could be
seriously injured. Be sure to set the parking
brake before placing the transfer case in
NEUTRAL. See “Parking Brake” in the Index.
NEUTRAL: Shift the vehicle’s transfer case to
NEUTRAL only when towing your vehicle. See
“Recreational Vehicle Towing” or “Towing Your
Vehicle” in the Index for more information.
Shifting to 2HI
Indicator lights in the switches show which setting you
are in. The indicator lights will come on briefly when
you turn on the ignition and one will stay on. If the
lights do not come on, you should take your vehicle to
your dealer for service. An indicator light will flash
while shifting the transfer case. It will remain
illuminated when the shift is complete. If for some
reason the transfer case cannot make a requested shift, it
will return to the last chosen setting.
Shifting to 4LO
If the SERVICE 4WD light stays on, you should take
your vehicle to your dealer for service. See “Service
4WD” in the Index for further information.
Shifting to 4HI or AUTO 4WD
Press and release the 4HI or AUTO 4WD switch. This
can be done at any speed, and the indicator light will
flash while shifting. It will remain illuminated when the
shift is completed.
Press and release the 2HI switch. This can be done at
any speed.
To shift to 4LO, the vehicle’s engine must be running
and the vehicle must be stopped or moving less
than 3 mph (4.8 km/h) with the transmission in
NEUTRAL (N). The preferred method for shifting
into 4LO is to have your vehicle moving 1 to 2 mph
(1.6 to 3.2 km/h). Press and release the 4LO switch.
You must wait for the 4LO indicator light to stop
flashing and remain illuminated before shifting your
transmission into gear.
If the 4LO switch is pressed when your vehicle is in
gear and/or moving, the 4LO indicator light will flash
for 30 seconds and not complete the shift unless your
vehicle is moving less than 3 mph (4.8 km/h) and the
transmission is in NEUTRAL (N). After 30 seconds the
transfer case will return to the setting last chosen.
2-31
Shifting Out of 4LO
Shifting to NEUTRAL
To shift from 4LO to 4HI, AUTO 4WD or 2HI your
vehicle must be stopped or moving less than 3 mph
(4.8 km/h) with the transmission in NEUTRAL (N) and
the engine running. The preferred method for shifting
out of 4LO is to have your vehicle moving 1 to 2 mph
(1.6 to 3.2 km/h). Press and release the 4HI, AUTO
4WD or 2HI switch. You must wait for the 4HI,
AUTO 4WD or 2HI indicator light to stop flashing and
remain illuminated before shifting your transmission
into gear.
To shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL, first make sure
the vehicle is parked so that it will not roll:
If the 4HI, AUTO 4WD or 2HI switch is pressed when
your vehicle is in gear and/or moving, the 4HI, AUTO
4WD or 2HI indicator light will flash for 30 seconds but
will not complete the shift unless your vehicle is moving
less than 3 mph (4.8 km/h) and the transmission is in
NEUTRAL (N).
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Start the vehicle.
3. Connect the vehicle to the towing vehicle.
4. Put the transmission in NEUTRAL (N).
5. Shift the transfer case to 2HI.
6. Simultaneously press and hold the 2HI and 4LO
buttons for 10 seconds. The red NEUTRAL light
will come on when the transfer case shift to
NEUTRAL is complete.
7. Shift the transmission to REVERSE (R) for one
second, then shift to AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE
for one second.
8. Turn the ignition to OFF.
9. Place the transmission shift lever in PARK (P).
10. Release the parking brake prior to towing.
2-32
B
Shifting Out of NEUTRAL
Parking Brake
To shift out of NEUTRAL:
1. Set the parking brake and apply the regular
brake pedal.
To set the parking brake, hold the regular brake pedal
down with your right foot. Push down the parking brake
pedal with your left foot.
2. Shift the transmission to NEUTRAL (N), and turn
the ignition to RUN with the engine off.
If the ignition is on, the brake system warning light will
come on.
3. Press the button for the desired transfer case position
(2HI, 4HI, AUTO 4WD or 4LO), the indicator lights
will blink.
4. Start the engine within 30 seconds. The transfer case
will shift to the desired position.
5. After the transfer case has shifted to the desired
position, as indicated by a solid indicator light, you
may shift the transmission to the desired position.
To release the parking
brake, hold the regular
brake pedal down. Pull the
lever, located above the
parking brake pedal,
marked BRAKE
RELEASE, to release the
parking brake.
6. Release the parking brake.
2-33
If the ignition is on when the parking brake is released,
the brake system warning light will go off.
NOTICE:
Driving with the parking brake on can cause
your rear brakes to overheat. You may have to
replace them, and you could also damage other
parts of your vehicle.
If you are towing a trailer and are parking on any hill,
see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index. That section shows
what to do first to keep the trailer from moving.
2-34
Shifting Into PARK (P)
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll. If
you have left the engine running, the vehicle can
move suddenly. You or others could be injured.
To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when
you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that
follow. With four-wheel drive, your vehicle will
be free to roll -- even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P) -- if your transfer case is in
NEUTRAL. So be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL. See “Four-Wheel
Drive (Automatic Transfer Case)” in the Index. If
you’re pulling a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in
the Index.
1. Hold the brake pedal down with your right foot and
set the parking brake.
2. Move the shift lever into PARK (P) position
like this:
D Move the lever up as far as it will go.
3. Be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in
NEUTRAL (N).
4. Turn the ignition key to LOCK.
D Pull the shift lever toward you.
5. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can
leave your vehicle with the ignition key in your
hand, your vehicle is in PARK (P).
2-35
Leaving Your Vehicle With the
Engine Running
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to leave your vehicle with
the engine running. Your vehicle could move
suddenly if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P)
with the parking brake firmly set. With
four-wheel drive if your transfer case is in
NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll, even
if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So be sure
the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in
NEUTRAL. And, if you leave the vehicle with the
engine running, it could overheat and even catch
fire. You or others could be injured. Don’t leave
your vehicle with the engine running unless you
have to.
If you have to leave your vehicle with the engine
running, be sure your vehicle is in PARK (P) and the
2-36
parking brake is firmly set before you leave it. After you
move the shift lever into PARK (P), hold the regular
brake pedal down. Then, see if you can move the shift
lever away from PARK (P) without first pulling it
toward you. If you can, it means that the shift lever
wasn’t fully locked into PARK (P).
Torque Lock
If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your
transmission into PARK (P) properly, the weight of the
vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in
the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the
shift lever out of PARK (P). This is called “torque lock.”
To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and then
shift into PARK (P) properly before you leave the
driver’s seat. To find out how, see “Shifting Into
PARK (P)” in the Index.
When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) before you release the parking brake.
If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another
vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the
pressure from the parking pawl in the transmission, so
you can pull the shift lever out of PARK (P).
Shifting Out of PARK (P)
Parking Over Things That Burn
Your vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock
control system. You have to fully apply your regular
brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when the
ignition is in RUN. See “Automatic Transmission” in
the Index.
If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on
the shift lever and push the shift lever all the way up
into PARK (P) as you maintain brake application. Then,
move the shift lever into the gear you want.
If you ever hold the brake pedal down but still can’t
shift out of PARK (P), try this:
1. Turn the key to the OFF ignition position.
2. Apply and hold the brake until the end of Step 4.
3. Shift the vehicle to NEUTRAL (N).
4. Start the vehicle and then shift to the drive gear
you want.
5. Have the system fixed as soon as you can.
CAUTION:
Things that can burn could touch hot exhaust
parts under your vehicle and ignite. Don’t park
over papers, leaves, dry grass or other things that
can burn.
2-37
Engine Exhaust
CAUTION:
Engine exhaust can kill. It contains the gas
carbon monoxide (CO), which you can’t see or
smell. It can cause unconsciousness and death.
You might have exhaust coming in if:
D Your exhaust system sounds strange
or different.
D Your vehicle gets rusty underneath.
D Your vehicle was damaged in a collision.
D Your vehicle was damaged when driving over
high points on the road or over road debris.
D Repairs weren’t done correctly.
D Your vehicle or exhaust system had been
modified improperly.
If you ever suspect exhaust is coming into
your vehicle:
D Drive it only with all the windows down to
blow out any CO; and
D Have your vehicle fixed immediately.
2-38
Running Your Engine While
You’re Parked
It’s better not to park with the engine running. But if
ever you have to, here are some things to know.
CAUTION:
Idling the engine with the climate control system
off could allow dangerous exhaust into your
vehicle (see the earlier Caution under
“Engine Exhaust”).
Also, idling in a closed-in place can let deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) into your vehicle even if
the fan switch is at the highest setting. One place
this can happen is a garage. Exhaust -- with
CO -- can come in easily. NEVER park in a
garage with the engine running.
Another closed-in place can be a blizzard.
(See “Blizzard” in the Index.)
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
Don’t leave your vehicle when the engine is
running unless you have to. If you’ve left the
engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.
You or others could be injured. To be sure your
vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly
level ground, always set your parking brake and
move the shift lever to PARK (P).
Four-wheel drive vehicles with the transfer case
in NEUTRAL will allow the vehicle to roll, even if
your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in
NEUTRAL. Always set your parking brake.
Locking Rear Axle
Your locking rear axle can give you additional traction
on snow, mud, ice, sand or gravel. It works like a
standard axle most of the time, but when one of the rear
wheels has no traction and the other does, this feature
will allow the wheel with traction to move the vehicle.
Windows
Power Windows
Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle won’t
move. See “Shifting Into PARK (P)” in the Index.
If you’re pulling a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in
the Index.
The power window controls are located on each of the
side doors.
2-39
The driver’s door has a switch for the passenger
windows also. The power windows will work when the
ignition has been turned to ACCESSORY, RUN or when
in Retained Accessory Power (RAP). See “Retained
Accessory Power” in the Index.
Push the rear of the switch to lower the window. Push
the front of the switch to raise the window.
The driver’s window switch has an express-down
feature that allows the window to be lowered without
holding the switch. Press and hold the side of the
window switch marked AUTO for one second to
activate the express-down mode. The express-down
mode can be canceled at any time by pressing the
opposite side of the switch. To open the window
partway, lightly tap the switch until the window is at the
desired position.
The power window switch has a lockout feature. This
feature prevents the passenger’s windows from
operating except from the driver’s position, when the
front driver’s side switch is in LOCK. When the switch
is moved to NORM, the rear power windows will
operate again.
Electric Tailgate Glass Release
Before operating your electric tailgate glass release, see
“Rear Doors” in the the Index.
Your vehicle has the theft-deterrent system. If it is
armed, use the transmitter, not the key to open the
tailgate or the alarm will sound. The hatch switch will
not work while the system is armed. See
“Theft-Deterrent System” in the Index.
To release the tailgate glass,
press the REAR HATCH
button. Then, lift the
window up to open.
The shift lever must be in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N)
for the release to work.
There is also a power door lock switch at the rear of the
vehicle which will allow you to lock or unlock all of the
doors. See “Power Doors Locks” in the Index.
2-40
Horn
Multifunction Lever
Push on the air bag module in the center of the steering
wheel to sound the horn.
Tilt Wheel
A tilt steering wheel allows
you to adjust the steering
wheel before you drive.
The lever on the left side of the steering column
includes your:
You can also raise it to the highest level to give your
legs more room when you enter and exit the vehicle.
To tilt the wheel, hold the steering wheel and pull the
lever. Move the steering wheel to a comfortable level,
then release the lever to lock the wheel in place.
D
D
D
D
D
Turn Signal and Lane Change Indicator
Headlamp High/Low Beam Changer
Windshield Wipers
Windshield Washer
Cruise Control
2-41
Turn Signal and Lane Change Indicator
The turn signal has two upward (for right) and two
downward (for left) positions. These positions allow you
to signal a turn or a lane change.
To signal a turn, move the lever all the way up or
down. When the turn is finished, the lever will
return automatically.
An arrow located on the
instrument panel will flash
in the direction of the turn
or lane change.
To signal a lane change, just raise or lower the lever
until the arrow starts to flash. Hold it there until you
complete your lane change. The lever will return by
itself when you release it.
2-42
If you move the lever all the way up or down and the
arrow flashes at twice the normal rate, a signal bulb may
be burned out and other drivers may not see your
turn signal.
If a bulb is burned out, replace it to help avoid an
accident. If the arrows don’t go on at all when you
signal a turn, check for burned-out bulbs and a blown
fuse (see “Fuses” in the Index).
Headlamp High/Low-Beam Changer
To change the headlamps from low beam to high or high
to low, pull the turn signal lever all the way toward you.
Then release it.
When the high beams are
on, this light located on the
instrument panel also will
be on.
Windshield Wipers
You operate the windshield
wipers by turning the
control with the wiper
symbol on it.
For a single wiping cycle, turn the control to MIST.
Hold it there until the wipers start, then let go. The
wipers will stop after one cycle. If you want more
cycles, hold the control on MIST longer.
You can set the wiper speed for a long or short delay
between wipes. This can be very useful in light rain or
snow. Turn the control to choose the delay time. The
closer to LOW, the shorter the delay.
For steady wiping at low speed, turn the control to the
LOW position. For high-speed wiping, turn the control
further, to HIGH. To stop the wipers, turn the control
to OFF.
Damaged wiper blades may prevent you from seeing
well enough to drive safely. To avoid damage, be sure to
clear ice and snow from the wiper blades before using
them. If they are frozen to the windshield, carefully
loosen or thaw them. If your blades do become
damaged, get new blades or blade inserts.
Heavy snow or ice can overload your wipers. The
windshield wiper motor is protected from overload by a
circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to
heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor
cools. Although the circuit is protected from electrical
overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc. may cause
wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy
snow from the windshield before using your
windshield wipers.
2-43
Windshield Washer
At the top of the lever,
there’s a paddle with the
word PUSH on it. To spray
washer fluid on the
windshield, push the paddle.
Washer fluid will spray as long as you push the paddle.
When you let go of the paddle, the wipers will continue
to wipe for a few seconds and then either stop or return
to the preset speed.
The use of hood-mounted air deflectors may adversely
affect windshield wiper and washer performance.
Rear Window Wiper and Washer (If Equipped)
The rear window
wiper/washer switch is on
your instrument panel, to
the right of the gage cluster.
CAUTION:
In freezing weather, don’t use your washer until
the windshield is warmed. Otherwise the washer
fluid can form ice on the windshield, blocking
your vision.
To turn the wiper on, slide the switch all the way up.
For delay wiping, slide the switch even with DELAY in
the center position of the rear wiper control. The wiper
will cycle every nine seconds.
2-44
To wash the window, push in on the switch. Window
washer fluid will continue to spray until the switch is
released. The wiper will continue with three more wipes
and then return to the setting that was chosen before the
lever was pushed.
The rear window washer uses the same fluid bottle as
the front windshield washer. If the fluid level is low in
the washer fluid bottle, you may not be able to wash
your rear window. If you can wash your windshield, but
not your rear window, check the fluid level.
Cruise Control
With cruise control, you can
maintain a speed of about
25 mph (40 km/h) or more
without keeping your foot
on the accelerator.
This can really help on long trips. Cruise control does
not work at speeds below 25 mph (40 km/h).
When you apply your brakes, cruise control shuts off.
CAUTION:
D Cruise control can be dangerous where you
D
can’t drive safely at a steady speed. So,
don’t use your cruise control on winding
roads or in heavy traffic.
Cruise control can be dangerous on
slippery roads. On such roads, fast changes
in tire traction can cause needless wheel
spinning, and you could lose control.
Don’t use cruise control on slippery roads.
2-45
Setting Cruise Control
CAUTION:
If you leave your cruise control switch on when
you’re not using cruise, you might hit a button
and go into cruise when you don’t want to. You
could be startled and even lose control. Keep the
cruise control switch off until you want to use
cruise control.
Once you’re going about 25 mph (40 km/h) or more,
you can move the cruise control switch from ON to
R/A (Resume/Accelerate) briefly.
You’ll go right back up to your chosen speed and
stay there.
Remember, if you hold the switch at R/A, the vehicle
will keep going faster until you release the switch or
apply the brake. So unless you want to go faster, don’t
hold the switch at R/A.
Increasing Speed While Using Cruise Control
There are two ways to go to a higher speed:
1. Move the cruise control switch to ON.
2. Get up to the speed you want.
3. Push in the SET button at the end of the lever and
release it.
4. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal.
Resuming a Set Speed
Suppose you set your cruise control at a desired speed
and then you apply the brake. This, of course, shuts off
the cruise control. But you don’t need to reset it.
2-46
D Use the accelerator pedal to get to the higher speed.
Push the SET button at the end of the lever, then
release the button and the accelerator pedal. You’ll
now cruise at the higher speed.
D Move the cruise control switch from ON to R/A.
Hold it there until you get up to the speed you want,
and then release the switch. To increase your speed
in very small amounts, move the switch to R/A
briefly. Each time you do this, your vehicle will go
about 1 mph (1.6 km/h) faster.
Reducing Speed While Using Cruise Control
There are two ways to reduce your speed while using
cruise control:
D Push in the SET button at the end of the lever until
you reach the lower speed you want, then release it.
D To slow down in very small amounts, push the
button briefly. Each time you do this, you’ll go about
1 mph (1.6 km/h) slower.
accelerator pedal to maintain your speed. If the
steepness of the hill causes the vehicle speed to drop
more than 15 mph (24 km/h) below the set speed, your
cruise control will automatically disengage. When going
downhill, you may have to brake or shift to a lower gear
to keep your speed down. Of course, applying the brake
takes you out of cruise control. Many drivers find this to
be too much trouble and don’t use cruise control on
steep hills.
Passing Another Vehicle While Using Cruise Control
Ending Cruise Control
Use the accelerator pedal to increase your speed. When
you take your foot off the pedal, your vehicle will slow
down to the cruise control speed you set earlier.
There are two ways to turn off the cruise control:
Using Cruise Control on Hills
How well your cruise control will work on hills depends
upon your speed, load and the steepness of the hills.
When going up steep hills, you may have to step on the
D Step lightly on the brake pedal or
D Move the cruise control switch to OFF.
Erasing Speed Memory
When you turn off the cruise control or the ignition,
your cruise control set speed memory is erased.
2-47
Exterior Lamps
Turn the knob clockwise, to the parking lamp symbol, to
turn on the following:
D
D
D
D
D
Parking Lamps
Sidemarker Lamps
Taillamps
License Plate Lamps
Instrument Panel Lights
Turn the knob clockwise again, to the master lighting
symbol, to turn on all the lamps listed as well as
the headlamps.
Turn the knob counterclockwise, to OFF, to turn off
your lamps. For additional information on headlamp
operation, see “Headlamp Delay” in the Index.
Your parking/headlamp knob is on the left side of your
instrument panel.
You can switch your headlamps from high to low beam
by pulling on the turn signal/high-beam lever.
A circuit breaker protects your headlamps. If you have
an electrical overload, your headlamps will flicker on
and off. Have your headlamp wiring checked right away
if this happens.
2-48
Automatic Headlamp System
When it is dark enough outside, your automatic
headlamp system will turn on your headlamps at the
normal brightness along with other lamps such as the
taillamps, sidemarker, parking lamps and the instrument
panel lights.
To idle your vehicle with the automatic headlamp
system off, set the parking brake while the ignition is
off. Then start the vehicle. The automatic headlamp
system will stay off until you release the parking brake.
Use the headlamp switch to turn on the regular lamps
when needed.
Headlamps-On Reminder
A chime will sound when your headlamps are turned on
and your ignition is in OFF, LOCK or ACCESSORY.
Daytime Running Lamps
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) can make it easier for
others to see the front of your vehicle during the day.
DRL can be helpful in many different driving
conditions, but they can be especially helpful in the
short periods after dawn and before sunset.
The DRL system will make your headlamps come on at
a reduced brightness when:
D
D
D
D
the ignition is on,
the headlamp switch is off,
the parking brake is released and
it is bright enough outside and the automatic
headlamps are off.
When the DRL are on, only your headlamps will be on.
The taillamps, sidemarker and other lamps won’t be on.
Your instrument panel won’t be lit up either.
When it begins to get dark, your DRL will turn off. Your
headlamps will come on automatically.
When it begins to get bright, the regular lamps will go
off, and your headlamps will change to the reduced
brightness of DRL.
To idle your vehicle with the DRL off, set the parking
brake. The DRL will stay off until you release the
parking brake.
As with any vehicle, you should turn on the regular
headlamp system when you need it.
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Fog Lamps
Headlamp Delay
Your vehicle has fog lamps. Use them for better vision
in foggy or misty conditions. Your parking lamps and/or
low-beam headlamps must be on for your fog lamps to
work. Fog lamps are not meant to be used without
headlamps in the dark.
Your vehicle is equipped with a headlamp delay feature
that holds the headlamps on for a short period of time
after the ignition is turned off.
The fog lamp switch is
located to the right of the
instrument panel cluster.
Press the ribbed top part of the switch to turn the fog
lamps on. Press the bottom of the switch to turn them
off. An indicator light will illuminate in the switch when
the fog lamps are on.
Fog lamps will go off whenever your high-beam
headlamps come on. When the high-beams are off, the
fog lamps will come on again.
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The HEADLAMP DELAY button is located on the
lower left side of the inside rearview mirror.
The length of time that the headlamps stay on after the
ignition is turned off can be adjusted by pressing and
holding the HEADLAMP DELAY button. The delay can
be varied in five steps (0, 15, 30, 60 and 90 seconds).
When the HEADLAMP DELAY button is held in, the
Light Emitting Diode (LED) on the mirror will show five
step changes in brightness. When the LED is at its
brightest the headlamp delay will be 90 seconds, and when
it is most dim the delay will be zero seconds.
Exit Lighting and Delayed Illumination
With this feature, your interior lamps will come on and
stay on for up to 25 seconds when entering the vehicle
and up to 5 seconds when leaving your vehicle.
Interior Lamps
When the doors are opened, the dome lamps will only
come on if the dome lamp button is in the out position.
When all doors are closed or the dome lamp button is
pressed in, the lamps will stay on for a short period of
time and will then fade out. See “Feature
Customization” in the Index.
Instrument Panel Intensity Control
Dome Lamps
The instrument panel intensity control is located next to
the parking/headlamp switch. Turn the thumbwheel up or
down to adjust the instrument panel light intensity. Turn
the thumbwheel up to the first notch to return the radio
display and gear shift indicator LED display to full
intensity when the headlamps or parking lamps are on.
To turn on the dome lamps (with the vehicle doors closed)
turn the thumbwheel up to the second notch position.
The dome lamps will come on when you open the doors.
You can also turn the dome lamps on by turning the
thumbwheel, located next to the parking/headlamps
switch knob, all the way up to the second notch. In this
position, the dome lamps will remain on whether the
doors are opened or closed.
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Reading Lamps
Your vehicle has reading
lamps. Press the button
located next to the lamp to
turn the lamp on or off.
You can use the DOME OVERRIDE button, located
below the parking/headlamp knob, to set the dome
lamps to come on automatically when the doors are
opened, or remain off. To turn the lamps off, press the
button “in”. Press the button again and return it to the
“out” position to set the dome lights to come on.
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The lamps can be adjusted to point in the direction
you want.
Battery Rundown Protection
This feature shuts off the dome, courtesy, vanity,
reading, glove box and underhood lamps if they are left
on for more than 20 minutes when the ignition is off.
This will keep your battery from running down.
Mirrors
Electrochromic Inside Rearview Mirror
with Compass, Temperature Display and
Headlamp Delay
The mirror also includes an eight-point compass display
in the upper right corner of the mirror face. When on,
the compass automatically calibrates as the vehicle
is driven.
Your vehicle has electrochromic inside and outside
rearview mirrors. Your vehicle also has a headlamp
delay feature. See “Headlamp Delay” in the Index for
more information.
When on, an electrochromic mirror automatically dims
to the proper level to minimize glare from lights behind
you after dark.
2-53
Temperature Display
Electrochromic Mirror Operation
The temperature can be displayed by pressing the TEMP
switch. Pressing the TEMP switch once briefly will
toggle the temperature reading on and off. To alternate
the temperature reading between Fahrenheit and Celsius,
press and hold the TEMP switch for three seconds until
the display shows only F_ or C_. Press and release the
TEMP switch to toggle between the Fahrenheit and
Celsius readings. After five seconds of inactivity, the
display will return to normal in the temperature scale
you have selected.
The TEMP side of the switch, located at the bottom of
the mirror, also turns the electrochromic inside and
outside mirrors on and off. An indicator light, located to
the right of the TEMP switch, will come on when the
electrochromic mirrors are turned on. To turn the
mirrors on, press and hold the TEMP switch for eight
seconds. The mirrors will darken and remain dark until
the button is released. To turn the mirrors off, press and
hold the TEMP switch for eight seconds.
The normal display will show a temperature reading in
degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius. If the outside temperature
is 37_F (3_C) or lower, the display will toggle between
the word ICE and the current temperature every eight
seconds. This is a warning to the driver that road
conditions may be icy, and that appropriate precautions
should be taken. If an abnormal reading is displayed,
please consult your dealer.
Compass Operation
Press the COMP switch once briefly to turn the compass
on or off.
When the ignition and the compass feature are
on, the compass will show two character boxes for
approximately two seconds. After two seconds, the
mirror will display the compass heading.
Cleaning the Mirror
When cleaning the mirror, use a paper towel or similar
material dampened with glass cleaner. Do not spray
glass cleaner directly on the mirror as that may cause the
liquid cleaner to enter the mirror housing.
2-54
Compass Calibration
Compass Variance
The compass may need calibration if:
The mirror is set in zone eight upon leaving the factory.
It will be necessary to adjust the compass to compensate
for compass variance if you live outside zone eight.
Under certain circumstances, as during a long distance
cross-country trip, it will be necessary to adjust for
compass variance. Compass variance is the difference
between earth’s magnetic north and true geographic
north. If not adjusted to account for compass variance,
your compass could give false readings.
D After five seconds, the display does not show a
compass heading (“N” for North, for example), there
may be a strong magnetic field interfering with the
compass. Such interference may be caused by a
magnetic antenna mount, magnetic note pad holder
or a similar magnetic item.
D The compass does not display the correct heading
and the compass zone variance is set correctly.
In order to calibrate, the letter “C” must be displayed in
the mirror compass windows. If “C” is not displayed,
push in the “COMP” button for approximately
eight seconds or until the letter “C” is displayed.
To adjust for compass variance:
1. Press and hold the COMP switch, located at the
bottom of the mirror, for three seconds until a zone
number appears in the display.
The compass can be calibrated in one of two ways:
D Drive the vehicle in circles at 5 mph (8 km/h) or less
until the display reads a direction, or
D Drive the vehicle on your everyday routine and after
several turns the compass will become calibrated and
will display a direction.
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2. Find your current location and variance zone number
on the following zone map.
Electric Outside Rearview Mirrors
The electric mirrors can be adjusted from inside
the vehicle.
Select the mirror you want
to move by moving the
center of the switch, located
on the driver’s door armrest,
to L (left) or R (right).
Then, adjust the mirror angle by pressing the outer
arrows on the switch until the mirror is adjusted where
you want it. The center position turns the electric
mirrors off.
3. Press the COMP switch on the bottom of the mirror
until the new zone number appears in the display.
After you stop pressing the switch in, the display
will show a compass direction within a few seconds.
2-56
Electrochromic Heated Outside
Rearview Mirrors
The outside rearview mirrors feature auto-dimming and
defrost modes.
To turn on the auto-dimming feature, press and hold the
inside rearview mirror TEMP button for eight seconds.
See “Electrochromic Inside Rearview Mirror with
Compass, Temperature Display and Headlamp Delay” in
the Index for further information.
CAUTION:
A convex mirror can make things (like other
vehicles) look farther away than they really are.
If you cut too sharply into the right lane, you
could hit a vehicle on your right. Check your
inside mirror or glance over your shoulder before
changing lanes.
To turn on the defrost feature, press the rear window
defrost button. See “Rear Window Defogger” in the
Index for further information.
Storage Compartments
Convex Outside Mirror
Your vehicle has a variety of storage compartments
designed to store small items.
Your passenger’s side mirror is convex. A convex
mirror’s surface is curved so you can see more from the
driver’s seat.
Glove Box
To open your glove box, move the release button toward
the passenger’s side and pull the door open.
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To use the cupholder, pull
the handle and slide the
cupholder tray open.
Center Overhead Console
Your vehicle has an overhead console. It has storage
compartments inside it. Your vehicle also has a
HomeLink transmitter. See “HomeLinkR Transmitter”
in the Index.
Sunglasses Compartment
The center overhead compartment can be used to store
your sunglasses.
To open, press the release button located at the rear of
the compartment door.
Rear Compartment
To close the cupholder, slide it back into the
instrument panel.
The rear compartment can be used to store a small item,
like a book.
Center Floor Console
To open, press the release button located at the rear of
the compartment door.
Your vehicle has a console compartment between the
bucket seats.
Instrument Panel Cupholder
Your vehicle has a cupholder in the middle of the
instrument panel.
2-58
Your console also has a
cupholder that swings down
for the rear seat passengers
to use.
To open it, insert the console key into the lock and
unlock the console. Press the button in and swing the
console lid upward.
The console key is for use on the storage
compartment only.
The console has a small storage bin covered by a lid.
When open, the lid provides a writing surface. The
dealer installed OnStarR cellular telephone option
replaces the writing surface.
The console has two cupholders and two storage trays.
The console also contains the following components:
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
Rear Seat Audio System Controls
Rear Heated Seat Switches
Rear Seat Accessory Power Outlet
Six-Disc CD Changer
Subwoofer
Audio Amplifier
Shock Sensor Adjuster
LED (Light Emitting Diode) Theft-Deterrent
System Indicator
Cellular Telephone (If Equipped)
For more information on these components, please see
the Index for that item.
2-59
Armrest Storage Compartment
Your vehicle has a center armrest storage compartment
in the rear seat.
Cargo Security Shade
CAUTION:
Other Storage Compartments
Your vehicle includes a number of storage
compartments for storage of often-used items.
Your vehicle has a storage pocket on each of the front
doors. You can use the pocket to store a variety of
small items.
Convenience Net
Your vehicle has a convenience net, which is used to
keep small loads, like grocery bags, in place during
sharp turns or quick starts and stops.
The net is not designed for larger, heavier loads.
It is stored in a pouch attached at the driver’s side of the
vehicle. You can also unhook the net so that it will lie
flat when you’re not using it.
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An improperly stored cargo cover could be
thrown about the vehicle during a collision or
sudden maneuver. You or others could be
injured. If you remove the cover, always store it
outside of the vehicle. When you put it back,
always be sure that it is securely reattached.
Your vehicle has a cargo security shade. You can use it
to cover items in the cargo area of your vehicle.
To use the shade, pull the shade handle toward the rear
of the vehicle. Latch the shade posts into the retaining
sockets on the cargo area trim panels.
To return the shade to the shade holder, pull up on the
shade handle to release the shade posts from the
retaining sockets. Let the shade move forward and latch
the shade posts into the front-most retaining sockets.
To remove the shade from the vehicle, first let the shade
go all the way into the holder. Then, push the shade
holder toward the passenger’s side of the vehicle. Lift
the shade up on the driver’s side, swing the shade
rearward and take it out of the vehicle.
To put the shade in the vehicle, first make sure the shade
slot in the holder faces rearward with the round surface
facing down. Then, hold the shade at an angle and place
the shade holder tab into the slot in the passenger’s side
trim panel. Move the other end of the shade forward and
hold it next to the driver’s side trim panel slot.
Push the shade holder toward the passenger’s side of the
vehicle and place the tab in the driver’s side trim panel
slot. Make sure the tab goes all the way in the slot.
Lightly pull on the shade holder to make sure it is secure.
Then, pull the shade to the desired position and secure the
shade posts in the appropriate retaining sockets.
2-61
Cargo Tie Downs
There are cargo tie downs in
the rear cargo area that
allow you to strap cargo in
and keep it from moving
inside the vehicle.
When not using the tie downs, flip them down out of
the way.
Luggage Carrier
Your vehicle has a luggage carrier, which you can use to
load things on top of your vehicle.
The luggage carrier has slats and side rails attached to
the roof, and crossrails which can be moved toward the
front or the rear in the side rails to help secure cargo.
Tie the load to the tie loops or crossrails.
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NOTICE:
Loading cargo that weighs more than 200 lbs.
(90.6 kg) on the luggage carrier may damage
your vehicle. When you carry large things, never
let them hang over the rear or the sides of your
vehicle. Load your cargo so that it rests on the
slats and does not scratch or damage the vehicle.
Put the cargo against the side rails and fasten it
securely to the luggage carrier.
Don’t exceed the maximum vehicle capacity when loading
your vehicle. For more information on vehicle capacity
and loading, see “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
To prevent damage or loss of cargo as you’re driving,
check now and then to make sure the luggage carrier and
cargo are still securely fastened.
Be sure the cargo is properly loaded.
D If small heavy objects are placed on the roof, place
the load in the area over the rear wheels. If you need
to, cut a piece of 3/8 inch plywood to fit inside the
crossrails and side rails to spread the load.
D Tie the load to the crossrails or the side rail supports.
Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter
D If you need to carry long items, move the crossrails
Front Ashtray
Use the crossrails only to keep the load from sliding.
as far apart as they will go. Tie the load to the
crossrails and tie loops. Also tie the load to the
bumpers. Do not tie the load so tightly that the
crossrails or side rails are damaged.
D For the purpose of wind noise reduction, locate the
front crossrail approximately 18 to 24 inches
(46 cm to 58 cm) rearward of the front supports.
D After moving the crossrails, be sure to tighten all the
slider screws.
Your vehicle has a Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL) located above the tailgate glass or above the
rear load doors.
If items are loaded on the roof of the vehicle, care
should be taken not to block or damage the
CHMSL unit.
The front ashtray is located at the bottom of the
instrument panel. Pull on the notch in the ashtray door to
open it.
NOTICE:
If you store paper or other things that burn in
your ashtrays, they could be set on fire by
cigarettes or other smoking materials. That could
cause a fire and possibly damage your vehicle.
Do not store papers and other things that burn in
your ashtrays.
To remove the front ashtray, press the retainer spring
and pivot the ashtray toward you. To reinstall the
ashtray, place the bottom part of the ashtray on the pivot
bar at the bottom of its mounting on the instrument
panel. Then turn the ashtray back to its original position.
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Rear Door Ashtrays
Accessory Power Outlets
To use a rear ashtray, flip the lid open.
To remove a rear ashtray, open the lid and pull the
ashtray assembly upward.
To use the cigarette lighter, push it in all the way, and let
go. When it’s done heating, it will pop back by itself.
NOTICE:
Holding a cigarette lighter in with your hand
while it is heating can make it overload,
damaging the lighter and the heating element.
Just push the lighter all the way in and let go.
When it’s done heating, it will pop back by itself.
2-64
You have four auxiliary power outlets. Two are located
near the cigarette lighter. Use these outlets to power
mobile telephones or other devices designed to operate
with vehicle electrical systems.
One auxiliary power outlet
is located at the rear of the
center floor console, for rear
seat passengers to use.
Sun Visors
To block out glare, you can swing down the visors. You
can also swing them out to help block glare at the front
and side windows.
The visors have an extender on the inside edge. When
the visor is down, pull the extender out for extra glare
coverage at the front or side.
The visors also have mirrors with lights. The lights will
come on when you lift the mirror cover.
The other auxiliary power
outlet is located in the rear
cargo area on the
passenger’s side.
2-65
HomeLinkR Transmitter
Changes and modifications to this system by other than
an authorized service facility could void authorization to
use this equipment.
Programming the HomeLink Transmitter
Do not use the HomeLink transmitter with any garage
door opener that does not have the “stop and reverse”
feature. This includes any garage door opener model
manufactured before April 1, 1982.
Be sure that people and objects are clear of the garage
door you are programming.
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) this device may not cause harmful interference,
and (2) this device must accept any interference
received, including interference that may cause
undesired operation.
This device complies with RSS-210 of Industry Canada.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) this device may not cause interference, and (2) this
device must accept any interference, including
interference that may cause undesired operation of
the device.
2-66
Your vehicle’s engine should be turned off while
programming the transmitter. Follow these steps to
program up to three channels.
1. If you have not previously programmed a transmitter
channel, proceed to Step 2. Otherwise, hold down
the two outside buttons on the HomeLink transmitter
until the indicator light begins to flash rapidly
(after 20 seconds). Then release the buttons.
This procedure initializes the memory and erases
any previous settings for all three channels.
2. Decide which one of the three channels you want to
program. Hold the end of the hand-held transmitter
about 2 to 5 inches (5 to 13 cm) away from the
surface of the HomeLink transmitter so that you can
still see the indicator light.
3. Using both hands, press the hand-held transmitter
button and the desired button on the HomeLink
transmitter. Continue to press both buttons through
Step 4.
Be sure to keep the original hand-held transmitter
in case you need to erase and reprogram the
HomeLink transmitter.
Canadian Owners: During reprogramming, the
hand-held transmitter may automatically stop
transmitting after one or two seconds. In this case, you
should press and re-press the button on the hand-held
transmitter every two seconds without ever releasing the
button on the HomeLink transmitter. Release both
buttons when the indicator light on the HomeLink
transmitter begins to flash rapidly.
4. Hold down both buttons until you see the indicator
light on the HomeLink transmitter flash slowly and
then rapidly. The rapid flashing indicates that the
HomeLink transmitter has been programmed.
Release both buttons once the indicator light starts to
flash rapidly.
Operating the Transmitter
If you have trouble programming the HomeLink
transmitter, make sure that you have followed the
directions exactly as described. The HomeLink
transmitter may not work with older garage door
openers that do not meet current Federal Consumer
Safety Standards. If you cannot program the transmitter
after repeated attempts, refer to “Rolling Code
Programming” later in this section or contact the
HomeLink transmitter manufacturer at 1-800-355-3515.
If the hand-held transmitter appears to program the
HomeLink transmitter but does not open your garage
door, and if the garage door opener was manufactured
after 1996, the garage door opener may have a “rolling
code” system. A rolling code system changes the code
of the garage door opener every time you open or close
the garage door.
Press and release the appropriate button on the
HomeLink transmitter. The indicator light comes on
while the signal is being transmitted.
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To determine if you have this system, press the button
on the HomeLink transmitter that you have programmed
already. If the indicator light on the HomeLink
transmitter flashes rapidly for two seconds and then
turns solid, the garage door opener has a rolling code
system. In a rolling code system, the garage door motor
head unit must be trained to the HomeLink transmitter.
Training a Garage Door Opener with a
“Rolling Code” Feature (If Equipped)
If you have not previously programmed the hand-held
transmitter to the HomeLink transmitter, see
“Programming the HomeLink transmitter” listed
previously. If you have completed this programming
already, you now need to train the garage door opener
motor head unit to recognize the HomeLink transmitter.
Refer to your garage door opener owner’s manual for
the proper transmitter training procedure for your garage
door opener brand.
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1. Find the training button on the garage door opener
motor head unit. The exact location and color of the
button may vary by garage door opener brand. If you
have difficulty finding the training button, refer to
your garage door opener owner’s manual.
2. Press the training button on the garage door opener
motor head unit. An indicator light will begin to
flash when the motor head unit enters the
training mode.
Note: Following this step, you have 30 seconds to
start Step 3.
3. Return to the HomeLink transmitter in your vehicle
and firmly press and release the HomeLink
transmitter button you have already programmed for
two to three seconds. Press and release the button
again (you may need to do this step up to three
times) to make sure that the HomeLink transmitter
has been trained to the garage door opener motor
head unit. Check that the training was successful.
The garage door opener should now recognize the
HomeLink transmitter. You may either use the
HomeLink transmitter or the hand-held transmitter to
open the garage door.
If after following these instructions, you still have
problems training the garage door opener, contact the
HomeLink transmitter manufacturer at 1-800-355-3515.
Erasing Channels
To erase all three programmed channels, hold down the
two outside buttons until the indicator light begins to
flash (after 20 seconds). Release both buttons.
Accessories
Accessories for the HomeLink transmitter are available
from the manufacturer of the unit. If you would like
additional information, please call 1-800-355-3515.
Cellular Telephone (If Equipped)
Your vehicle has been prewired for the dealer installation
of a cellular telephone. A fixed mobile system is available.
Voice activation and hands-free operation are standard
features. For more information, contact your dealer.
A user’s guide is provided with the telephone.
OnStarR System (If Equipped)
OnStar is a vehicle communications service. The
following services are available through subscription
with OnStar and are available 24 hours a day:
Emergency Services
D
D
D
D
D
D
Automatic Notification of Air Bag Deployment
Theft Notification and Stolen Vehicle Tracking
Roadside Assistance with Location
Remote Diagnostics
OnStar MED-NET
Accident Assist
Convenience Services
D
D
D
D
Remote Door Unlock
Route Support
Concierge Services
Ride Assist
A complete user’s guide is provided with the OnStar
System. For more information contact OnStar at
1-888-ONSTAR7.
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Instrument Panel - Your Information System
2-70
A. Dome Lamp Switch
L. Cupholder
B. Lamp Controls
M. Auxiliary Power Outlets
C. Air Outlets
N. Storage Area or Compact Disc Player (If Equipped)
D. Multifunction Lever
O. Rear Window Defogger Switch
E. Instrument Panel Cluster
P. Fog Lamp Switch
F. Gearshift Lever
Q. Automatic Transfer Case Switch
G. Rear Window Wiper Washer Switch (If Equipped)
R. Tilt Lever
H. Audio System
S. Parking Brake Release
I. Comfort Control System
T. Hood Release
J. Glove Box
U. Fuse Block
K. Ashtray
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Instrument Panel Cluster
United States version shown, Canada similar
Your instrument cluster is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You’ll know how
fast you’re going, about how much fuel you have and many other things you’ll need to know to drive safely
and economically.
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Speedometer and Odometer
Trip Odometer
Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both miles
per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (km/h). Your
odometer shows how far your vehicle has been driven,
in either miles (used in the United States) or kilometers
(used in Canada).
The trip odometer can tell you how far your vehicle has
been driven since you last set the trip odometer to zero.
Tamper-Resistant Odometer
Your odometer is tamper-resistant. The odometer will
show silver lines between the numbers if someone tries
to turn it back.
You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs a
new odometer installed. Laws vary as to the procedure
that must be followed, so check with your state or
provincial vehicle registration office. But generally, if
the new odometer can be set to the mileage total of the
old odometer, then it must be. But if it can’t, then it’s set
at zero, and a label must be put on the driver’s door to
show the old mileage reading when the new odometer
was installed.
To reset the trip odometer, fully press the reset button
located near the trip odometer readout. If the reset
button is not fully pressed, the trip odometer may not go
all the way back to zero. If it doesn’t, you may have to
press the reset button again to reset the readout to zero.
Tachometer
Your tachometer displays the engine speed in
revolutions per minute (rpm).
NOTICE:
If you operate the engine with the tachometer
in the red area, your engine or other parts could
be damaged.
Damage to your engine or vehicle caused by
operating the engine in the red area isn’t covered
by your vehicle warranty. Don’t operate the
engine with the tachometer in the red area.
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Warning Lights, Gages
and Indicators
This part describes the warning lights and gages that
may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you
locate them.
Warning lights and gages can signal that something is
wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an
expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to
your warning lights and gages could also save you or
others from injury.
Warning lights come on when there may be or is a
problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you
will see in the details on the next few pages, some
warning lights come on briefly when you start the
engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are
familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed
when this happens.
Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem
with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and
warning lights work together to let you know when
there’s a problem with your vehicle.
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When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on
when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows
there may be a problem, check the section that tells you
what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice.
Waiting to do repairs can be costly -- and even
dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights
and gages. They’re a big help.
Safety Belt Reminder Light
When the key is turned to
RUN or START, a chime
will come on for about
eight seconds to remind
people to fasten their safety
belts, unless the driver’s
safety belt is already buckled.
The safety belt light will also come on and stay on for
about 20 seconds, then it will flash for about 55 seconds.
If the driver’s belt is already buckled, neither the chime
nor the light will come on.
Air Bag Readiness Light
There is an air bag readiness
light on the instrument
panel, which shows
AIR BAG. The system
checks the air bag’s
electrical system
for malfunctions.
The light tells you if there is an electrical problem. The
system check includes the air bag sensors, the air bag
modules, the wiring and the crash sensing and
diagnostic module. For more information on the air bag
system, see “Air Bag” in the Index.
This light will come on when you start your vehicle, and
it will flash for a few seconds. Then the light should go
out. This means the system is ready.
CAUTION:
If the air bag readiness light stays on after you
start your vehicle, it means the air bag system
may not be working properly. The air bags in
your vehicle may not inflate in a crash, or they
could even inflate without a crash. To help avoid
injury to yourself or others, have your vehicle
serviced right away if the air bag readiness light
stays on after you start your vehicle.
The air bag readiness light should flash for a few
seconds when you turn the ignition key to RUN. If the
light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be
ready to warn you if there is a problem.
If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start the
vehicle or comes on when you are driving, your air bag
system may not work properly. Have your vehicle
serviced right away.
2-75
Charging System Warning Light
The charging system
warning light should come
on briefly when you turn on
the ignition, before starting
the engine, as a check to
show you it is working.
After the engine starts, the light should go out. If it stays
on or comes on while you are driving, you may have a
problem with your charging system. It could indicate a
problem with the generator drive belt, or some other
charging system problem. Have it checked right away.
Driving while this light is on could drain your battery.
If you must drive a short distance with this light on, it
helps to turn off all your accessories, such as the radio
and the air conditioner.
2-76
Voltmeter
When your engine is not
running, but the ignition is
in the RUN position, this
gage shows your battery’s
state of charge in DC volts.
When the engine is running, the gage shows the
condition of the charging system. Readings between the
low and high warning zones indicate the normal
operating range.
Readings in the low warning zone may occur when a
large number of electrical accessories are operating in
the vehicle and the engine is left at an idle for an
extended period. This condition is normal since the
charging system is not able to provide full power at
engine idle. As engine speeds are increased, this
condition should correct itself as higher engine speeds
allow the charging system to create maximum power.
You can only drive for a short time with the reading in
either warning zone. If you must drive, turn off all
unnecessary accessories.
Readings in either warning zone indicate a possible
problem in the electrical system. Have the vehicle
serviced as soon as possible.
Brake System Warning Light
When the ignition is on, the
brake system warning light
will come on when you set
your parking brake.
If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake
problem. Have your brake system inspected right away.
This light should come on briefly when you turn the
ignition key to RUN. If it doesn’t come on then,
have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there’s
a problem.
If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the
road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is
harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor.
It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, have the
vehicle towed for service. (See “Towing Your Vehicle”
in the Index.)
CAUTION:
The light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t
release fully. If it stays on after your parking brake is
fully released, it means you have a brake problem.
Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into
two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can
still work and stop you. For good braking, though, you
need both parts working well.
Your brake system may not be working properly
if the brake system warning light is on. Driving
with the brake system warning light on can lead
to an accident. If the light is still on after you’ve
pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have
the vehicle towed for service.
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Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light
With the anti-lock brake
system, this light will
come on when you start
your engine and may stay
on for several seconds.
That’s normal.
If the light stays on, or comes on when you’re driving,
your vehicle needs service. If the regular brake system
warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you
don’t have anti-lock brakes. If the regular brake system
warning light is also on, you don’t have anti-lock brakes
and there’s a problem with your regular brakes. See
“Brake System Warning Light” earlier in this section.
The anti-lock brake system warning light should come
on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN. If the
light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be
ready to warn you if there is a problem.
2-78
Engine Coolant Temperature Gage
This gage shows the engine
coolant temperature.
It also provides an indicator of how hard your vehicle is
working. During a majority of the operation, the gage
will read 210_F (100_C) or less. If you are pulling a
load or going up hills, it is normal for the temperature to
fluctuate and approach the 260_F (160_C) mark. If the
gage reaches the 260_F (160_C) mark, it indicates that
the cooling system is working beyond its capacity.
The “Problems on the Road,” section of this manual
shows what to do. See “Engine Overheating” in
the Index.
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
(Service Engine Soon Light)
Your vehicle is equipped
with a computer which
monitors operation of the
fuel, ignition and emission
control systems.
This system is called OBD II (On-Board
Diagnostics-Second Generation) and is intended to
assure that emissions are at acceptable levels for the life
of the vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner
environment. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light
comes on to indicate that there is a problem and service
is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the
system before any problem is apparent. This may
prevent more serious damage to your vehicle. This
system is also designed to assist your service technician
in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.
NOTICE:
If you keep driving your vehicle with this light
on, after a while, your emission controls may not
work as well, your fuel economy may not be as
good and your engine may not run as smoothly.
This could lead to costly repairs that may not be
covered by your warranty.
NOTICE:
Modifications made to the engine, transmission,
exhaust or fuel system of your vehicle or the
replacement of the original tires with other than
those of the same Tire Performance Criteria
(TPC) can affect your vehicle’s emission controls
and may cause the SERVICE ENGINE SOON
light to come on. Modifications to these systems
could lead to costly repairs not covered by your
warranty. This may also result in a failure to pass
a required Emission Inspection/Maintenance test.
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This light should come on, as a check to show you it is
working, when the ignition is on and the engine is not
running. If the light doesn’t come on, have it repaired.
This light will also come on during a malfunction in
one of two ways:
D Light Flashing -- A misfire condition has been
detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and
may damage the emission control system on your
vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis
and service may be required.
D Light On Steady -- An emission control system
malfunction has been detected on your vehicle.
Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and
service may be required.
If the Light Is Flashing
The following may prevent more serious damage to
your vehicle:
D
D
D
D
Reducing vehicle speed.
Avoiding hard accelerations.
Avoiding steep uphill grades.
If you are towing a trailer, reduce the amount of
cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.
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If the light stops flashing and remains on steady, see
“If the Light Is On Steady” following.
If the light continues to flash, when it is safe to do so,
stop the vehicle. Find a safe place to park your vehicle.
Turn the key off, wait at least 10 seconds and restart the
engine. If the light remains on steady, see “If the Light
Is On Steady” following. If the light is still flashing,
follow the previous steps, and drive the vehicle to your
dealer or qualified service center for service.
If the Light Is On Steady
You may be able to correct the emission system
malfunction by considering the following:
Did you recently put fuel into your vehicle?
If so, reinstall the fuel cap, making sure to fully install
the cap. See “Filling Your Tank” in the Index. The
diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been
left off or improperly installed. A loose or missing fuel
cap will allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. A
few driving trips with the cap properly installed should
turn the light off.
Did you just drive through a deep puddle of water?
If so, your electrical system may be wet. The condition
will usually be corrected when the electrical system
dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off.
Have you recently changed brands of fuel?
If so, be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel (see
“Fuel” in the Index). Poor fuel quality will cause your
engine not to run as efficiently as designed. You may
notice this as stalling after start-up, stalling when you
put the vehicle into gear, misfiring, hesitation on
acceleration or stumbling on acceleration. (These
conditions may go away once the engine is warmed up.)
This will be detected by the system and cause the light
to turn on.
If you experience one or more of these conditions,
change the fuel brand you use. It will require at least one
full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.
If none of the above steps have made the light turn off,
have your dealer or qualified service center check the
vehicle. Your dealer has the proper test equipment and
diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical
problems that may have developed.
Emissions Inspection and Maintenance Programs
Some state/provincial and local governments have or
may begin programs to inspect the emission control
equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this
inspection could prevent you from getting a
vehicle registration.
Here are some things you need to know in order to help
your vehicle pass an inspection:
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the
SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is on or not
working properly.
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the OBD
(on-board diagnostic) system determines that critical
emission control systems have not been completely
diagnosed by the system. The vehicle would be
considered not ready for inspection. This can happen if
you have recently replaced your battery or if your
battery has run down. The diagnostic system is designed
to evaluate critical emission control systems during
normal driving. This may take several days of routine
driving. If you have done this and your vehicle still does
not pass the inspection for lack of OBD system
readiness, see your dealer or qualified service center to
prepare the vehicle for inspection.
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Oil Pressure Gage
The oil pressure gage
shows the engine oil
pressure in psi (pounds per
square inch) when the
engine is running. Canadian
vehicles indicate pressure
in kPa (kilopascals).
Oil pressure may vary with engine speed, outside
temperature and oil viscosity, but readings above the
low pressure zone indicate the normal operating range.
A reading in the low pressure zone may be caused by a
dangerously low oil level or other problem causing low
oil pressure. Check your oil as soon as possible.
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CAUTION:
Don’t keep driving if the oil pressure is low.
If you do, your engine can become so hot that it
catches fire. You or others could be burned.
Check your oil as soon as possible and have your
vehicle serviced.
NOTICE:
Damage to your engine from neglected oil
problems can be costly and is not covered by
your warranty.
Security Light
Service Four-Wheel Drive Warning Light
This light will come on
briefly when you turn the
key to START.
Your vehicle is equipped with an Automatic
Four-Wheel-Drive Transfer Case. It has a computer
which controls the four-wheel-drive system.
This light should come on
briefly when you turn on the
ignition, as a check to show
you it is working.
The light will stay on until the engine starts. If the light
flashes, the PasslockR system has entered a tamper
mode. If the vehicle fails to start, see “Passlock” in
the Index.
If the light comes on continuously while driving and
stays on, there may be a problem with the Passlock
system. Your vehicle will not be protected by Passlock,
and you should see your GM dealer.
If the SERVICE 4WD light comes on, there may be a
problem with the Automatic Four-Wheel-Drive system
and service is required. Malfunctions can be indicated
by the system before any problem is apparent, which
may prevent serious damage to the vehicle. This system
is also designed to assist your service technician in
correctly diagnosing a malfunction.
2-83
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
Indicator Light
This light will go on
whenever the DRL are on.
When it begins to get dark, the DRL indicator light will
turn off and your automatic headlamps will turn on.
2-84
Check Gages Light
This light will come on
briefly when you are
starting the engine.
If the light comes on and stays on while you are driving,
it could indicate a problem with your vehicle. It could be
a problem with your oil pressure, coolant temperature,
or some other problem. Check your various gages to see
if they are in the warning zones. If they are, have your
vehicle serviced right away.
Headlamp High-Beam Indicator Light
The high-beam indicator is
on whenever you use your
high-beam headlamps. For
more details about high
beams, see “Headlamp
High/Low-Beam Changer”
in the Index.
Turn Signal and Lane Change
Indicator Lights
The signal indicator will
come on whenever you
signal a turn or lane change.
See “Turn Signal and Lane
Change Indicator” in
the Index.
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Listed are four situations you may experience with your
fuel gage:
Fuel Gage
When the ignition is on, the
fuel gage tells you about
how much fuel you have
left in your tank.
D At the gas station, the fuel pump shuts off before the
gage reads F (Full).
D It takes a little more or less fuel to fill up than the
fuel gage indicated. For example, the gage may have
indicated the tank was half full, but it actually took a
little more or less than half the tank’s capacity to fill
the tank.
D The gage moves a little when you turn a corner or
speed up.
The gage will first indicate E (Empty) before you are
out of fuel, and you should get more fuel as soon
as possible.
D The gage doesn’t go back to E (Empty) when you
turn off the ignition.
None of these indicate a problem with the fuel gage.
For information on how to fill your fuel tank, see
“Fuel -- Filling Your Tank” in the Index.
For your fuel tank capacity, see “Fuel -- Tank Capacity”
in the Index.
2-86
Section 3 Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
In this section, you’ll find out how to operate the comfort control and audio systems offered with your vehicle.
Be sure to read about the particular systems supplied with your vehicle.
3-2
3-3
3-4
3-4
3-4
3-5
3-5
3-7
3-7
3-7
Comfort Controls
Rear Air Conditioning
Air Conditioning
Heating
Defogging and Defrosting
Rear Window Defogger
Ventilation System
Audio Systems
Setting the Clock
AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player
3-11
3-12
3-14
3-16
3-18
3-20
3-20
3-21
3-22
3-22
CD Adapter Kit
Rear Seat Audio (RSA)
Remote Compact Disc Player (If Equipped)
Console Mounted CD Changer
Theft-Deterrent Feature
Understanding Radio Reception
Tips About Your Audio System
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player
Care of Your Compact Discs
Fixed Mast Antenna
3-
3-1
Comfort Controls
Heater and Air Conditioning
Control System
Temperature Knob
The middle knob on the control panel lets you select the
temperature of the air flowing into the passenger area of
your vehicle. Turn the knob clockwise toward the red
area for warmer air. Turn the knob counterclockwise
toward the blue area for cooler air.
Mode Knob
The right knob on the control panel allows you to
choose the direction of air delivery. The control knob
can be placed in any position between any two mode
settings to blend the flow of air.
Fan Knob
The knob on the left side of the heating system control
panel controls the fan speed. To increase airflow, turn
the knob toward HI. To decrease airflow, turn it toward
LO. To turn the fan off, move the knob to OFF. If you
have the air conditioner on, moving the fan knob to OFF
also turns off the A/C compressor.
In OFF, while driving, air will flow through the floor
outlets. The mode knob will not redirect the airflow to
other selected outlet positions. This is normal operation
for the OFF position.
3-2
VENT: This setting directs air through the
instrument panel outlets.
VENT/HEAT: Use this setting to divide airflow
between the floor outlets and instrument panel outlets.
HEATER: This setting directs air through the
floor outlets.
DEFOG: This setting directs air to the heater
outlets and toward the windshield.
DEFROST: This setting directs air toward
the windshield.
Rear Air Conditioning
Your vehicle has rear air conditioning (without rear
heater). The controls are located above the front and
second seats. The front and rear overhead controls let
you increase and decrease the airflow at the rear vents.
To operate the rear air conditioning system, the front air
conditioning system must be on. With the front air
conditioning system off, the rear system controls can be
used to circulate air in the rear of the vehicle.
To use the rear control, first turn the front control knob
to REAR CNTL. Then, the rear control can be used to
increase and decrease the airflow.
To operate the rear system using the front control, just
turn the knob to the blower position you want.
3-3
Air Conditioning
Heating
On hot days, open the windows long enough to let hot
air inside escape. This reduces the time it takes for your
vehicle to cool down. Then keep your windows closed
for the air conditioner to work its best.
On cold days, use the HEATER or VENT/HEAT setting
with the temperature knob in the red area.
With the A/C on, move the temperature knob to MAX
for maximum cooling. This setting also puts the system
in the recirculation mode and helps to maximize your air
conditioner’s performance and your vehicle’s fuel
economy. This setting also cools the air the fastest. After
the vehicle’s interior reaches a comfortable temperature,
move the temperature knob to the right to place the air
conditioning system in the normal mode.
If you use the engine coolant heater before starting your
engine in cold weather, 20_F (-8_C) or lower, your
heating system will produce warmer air faster, to heat
the passenger compartment in cold weather.
The use of an engine coolant heater also reduces the
time it takes for the engine to reach normal operating
temperature, and shortens the time it takes the heater to
reach full output. For more information, see “Engine
Coolant Heater” in the Index.
Defogging and Defrosting
On cool, humid days, use DEFOG to keep the
windshield and side windows clear. Use DEFROST to
remove fog or ice from the windshield in extremely
humid or cold conditions. Use DEFROST with the
temperature knob toward the red area and the fan control
toward HI.
3-4
Rear Window Defogger
The lines you see running across the rear window are the
rear window defogger. The lines warm the glass.
To turn on the rear window
defogger, press this button
next to the fan control knob.
The rear window defogger
will only work if the
ignition switch is turned
to RUN. For best results,
first clear the window
of as much snow or ice
as possible.
The defogger will shut itself off after several minutes.
If you need additional warming time, press the button
again. You can turn the defogger off at any time by
pressing the button.
The rear window defogger button will activate the rear
window defogger and the heated outside rearview mirrors.
Do not attach a temporary vehicle license, tape or decals
across the defogger grid on the rear window.
NOTICE:
Don’t use a razor blade or anything else sharp on
the inside of the rear window. If you do, you
could cut or damage the warming grid, and the
repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
Ventilation System
For mild outside temperatures when little heating or
cooling is needed, use VENT to direct outside air
through your vehicle. Air will flow through the
instrument panel outlets.
Your vehicle’s ventilation system supplies outside air to
the inside of your vehicle when it is moving. With the
side windows closed, air will flow into the front air
inlet grilles, through the vehicle, and out the air
exhaust valves.
Outside air will also enter the vehicle when the heater or
the air conditioning fan is running, unless you have the
recirculation button pushed in. For more information on
the recirculation button, see “Air Conditioning” earlier
in this section.
3-5
Ventilation Tips
D Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow or
any other obstruction (such as leaves). The heater
and defroster will work far better, reducing the
chance of fogging the inside of your windows.
D When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, turn the
blower fan to HI for a few moments before driving.
This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and
moisture, and reduces the chance of fogging the
inside of your windows.
D Keep the air path under the front seats clear of
objects. This helps air to circulate throughout
your vehicle.
Your vehicle has air outlets in the center and on the sides
of your instrument panel. You can move the outlets from
side-to-side or up and down to direct the flow of air, or
close the outlets altogether. When you close an outlet, it
will increase the flow of air coming out of any outlets
that are open. These outlets do not completely shut off
airflow when in a closed vent position.
3-6
D The use of hood air deflectors may adversely
affect the performance of the heating and air
conditioning system.
Audio Systems
AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player
Your audio system has been designed to operate easily
and give years of listening pleasure. You will get the
most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it
first. Find out what your audio system can do and how
to operate all its controls, to be sure you’re getting the
most out of the advanced engineering that went into it.
Setting the Clock
Press and hold HR until the correct hour appears on the
display. Press and hold MN until the correct minute
appears on the display. To display the clock with the
ignition off, press RECALL or HR/MN and the time
will be displayed for a few seconds. There is an initial
two-second delay before the clock goes into the
time-set mode.
Included with the AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape
Player are six BoseR high performance speakers, an
AcoustimassR bass module and a seven channel Bose
amplifier. Please see your dealer for details.
3-7
Playing the Radio
Finding a Station
PWR-VOL: Press this knob to turn the system on and
off. To increase volume, turn the knob clockwise. Turn
it counterclockwise to decrease volume. The knob is
capable of being rotated continuously.
AM-FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1
and FM2. The display will show your selection.
REAR DSPL: When the main radio is turned on, press
this button to turn on the rear seat audio display on the
main radio. Press it again to turn the rear seat audio
display off.
RECALL: Display the time with the ignition off by
pressing this button. When the radio is playing, press
this button to recall the station frequency.
SCV: Your system has a feature called
Speed-Compensated Volume (SCV). With SCV, your
audio system adjusts automatically to make up for road
and wind noise as you drive. Set the volume at the
desired level. Turn the control ring behind the upper
knob clockwise to adjust the SCV. Then, as you drive,
SCV automatically increases the volume, as necessary,
to overcome noise at any particular speed. The volume
level should always sound the same to you as you drive.
If you don’t want to use SCV, turn the control all the
way down. Each notch on the control ring allows for
more volume compensation at faster vehicle speeds.
3-8
TUNE: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn it to
choose radio stations. Push the knob back into its stored
position when you’re not using it.
SEEK: Press the right arrow to tune to the next
higher station and the left arrow to tune to the next
lower station and stay there. The sound will mute
while seeking.
SCAN: Press and hold SEEK for two seconds until
SCAN appears on the display. SCAN allows you to
listen to stations for a few seconds. The receiver will
continue to scan and momentarily stop at each station
until you press the button again. The sound will mute
while scanning.
PUSHBUTTONS: The six numbered pushbuttons let
you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to
18 stations (six AM, six FM1 and six FM2). Just:
1. Turn the radio on.
2. Press AM-FM to select the band.
3. Tune in the desired station.
4. Press and hold one of the six pushbuttons. The sound
will mute. When it returns, release the button.
Whenever you press that numbered button, the
station you set will return.
5. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.
P. SCAN: The preset scan button lets you scan through
your favorite stations stored on your pushbuttons.
Select either the AM, FM1 or FM2 mode and then
press P. SCAN. It will scan through each station stored
on your pushbuttons and stop for a few seconds before
continuing to scan through all of the pushbuttons. Press
P. SCAN again or one of the pushbuttons to stop
scanning to listen to a specific preset station. P. SCAN
will light up on the display while in this mode. If one
of the stations stored on a pushbutton is too weak for
the location you are in, the radio display will show the
channel number (P1-P6) for several seconds before
advancing to the next preset station.
Setting the Tone
BASS: Press lightly on this knob to release it from its
stored position. Turn the knob clockwise to increase
bass and counterclockwise to decrease bass.
TREB: Press lightly on this knob to release it from its
stored position. Turn the knob clockwise to increase
treble and counterclockwise to decrease treble. If a
station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease
the treble.
Push these knobs back into their stored positions when
you’re not using them.
Adjusting the Speakers
BAL: Press lightly on this knob to release it from its
stored position. Turn the control clockwise to adjust
sound to the right speakers and counterclockwise to
adjust sound to the left speakers. The middle position
balances the sound between the speakers.
FADE: Press lightly on this knob to release it from its
stored position. Turn the control clockwise to adjust the
sound to the front speakers and counterclockwise for the
rear speakers. The middle position balances the sound
between the speakers.
Push these knobs back into their stored positions when
you’re not using them.
3-9
Playing a Cassette Tape
Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that
are up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes
longer than that are so thin they may not work well in
this player.
To load a cassette tape with the ignition off, press
EJECT or RECALL. Then, insert the cassette tape.
If the ignition is on but the radio is off, the tape will
begin playing.
Once the tape is playing, use the VOL, BAL, FADE,
BASS and TREB controls just as you do for the radio.
The tape symbol and a direction arrow will be on the
display whenever a tape is being played. Anytime a tape
is inserted, the top side is selected for play first.
The player automatically senses if the cassette tape is
metal or CrO2 and adjusts for best playback sound.
PREV (1): Press the PREV button or the SEEK left
arrow to search for the previous selection. A minimum
three-second blank gap is required for the player to stop
at the beginning of the selection. The tape direction
arrow will blink during the SEEK operation.
PROG (2): Press this button to switch from one side of
the tape to the other.
3-10
NEXT (3): Press the NEXT button or the SEEK right
arrow to search for the next selection. A minimum
three-second blank gap is required for the player to stop
at the beginning of the selection. The tape direction
arrow will blink during the SEEK operation. The sound
will mute while searching for the next selection.
REV (4): Press this button to rapidly reverse the tape to
the beginning of the cassette or until you press REV
again. The radio will play the last selected station while
reversing the tape. The tape direction arrow will blink
during the reverse operation.
D
(5): Press this button to reduce cassette tape noise.
The double-D symbol will appear on the display while
the player is in this mode.
Dolby Noise Reduction is manufactured under a license
from Dolby Laboratories Licensing Corporation. Dolby
and the double-D symbol are trademarks of Dolby
Laboratories Licensing Corporation.
FWD (6): Press this button to rapidly forward the tape
to the end of the cassette or until you press FWD again.
The radio will play the last selected station while
forwarding the tape. The tape direction arrow will blink
during the forward operation.
AM-FM: Press this button to switch from a tape to
the radio.
CD TAPE: Press this button if you have a tape loaded
in the cassette tape player and the radio is turned on, to
play a tape. Press AM-FM to return to the radio when a
tape is playing. Press CD TAPE to switch between the
tape player, remote CD and console-mounted CD
changer if all are loaded. When a tape is playing, a
lighted arrow will appear on the display and show the
direction of play. (If the radio is turned off, the tape
stays in the player and will resume playing at the point
where it stopped.)
EJECT: Press this button to remove the tape. The
radio will now play. EJECT can be used with either
the ignition or radio off. To load a cassette tape with
the ignition or radio off, press EJECT before loading
the cassette.
CLN: If this message appears on the display, the
cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play
tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to
prevent damage to the tapes and player. See “Care of
Your Cassette Tape Player” in the Index. After you clean
the player, press and hold EJECT for five seconds to
reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display --- to
show the indicator was reset.
CD Adapter Kits
It is possible to use a CD adapter kit with your cassette
tape player after activating the bypass feature on your
tape player.
To activate the bypass feature, use the following steps:
1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY.
2. Turn the radio off.
3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX button for five
seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash
for two seconds, indicating the feature is active.
4. Insert the adapter. It will power up the radio and
begin playing.
This override routine will remain active until EJECT
is pressed.
3-11
Rear Seat Audio (RSA)
the RSA controls. Note that if the front seat passengers
switch the source for the main radio to a remote source,
the RSA will play the same remote source. The rear
speakers will be muted when the RSA power is turned
on. You may operate the RSA functions even when the
main radio is off.
The following function is controlled by the knob on the
main radio:
PWR-VOL: Push this knob twice to turn RSA off.
The following functions are controlled by the RSA
system buttons:
This feature allows rear seat passengers to listen to and
control any of the music sources, including AM-FM,
cassette tapes and CDs, through the Rear Seat Audio
(RSA) controller. However, the rear seat passengers can
only control the music sources that the front seat
passengers are not listening to. For example, rear seat
passengers may listen to a cassette tape through
headphones while the driver listens to the radio through
the front speakers. The rear seat passengers have control
of the volume for each set of headphones. Be aware that
the front seat audio controls always have priority over
3-12
PWR: Press this button to turn RSA on or off.
VOL: Press this knob lightly so it extends. Turn the
knob clockwise to increase volume and
counterclockwise to decrease volume. Push the knob
back into its stored position when you’re not using it.
The upper VOL knob controls the upper headphone and
the lower VOL knob controls the lower headphone.
AM-FM: Press this button to switch between AM, FM1
and FM2. If the front passengers are already listening to
AM-FM, the RSA controller will not switch between the
bands and cannot change the frequency.
SEEK: While listening to AM-FM, press the up arrow
to tune to the next higher station and stay there. Press
the down arrow to tune to the next lower station and stay
there. The sound will mute while seeking. The SEEK
button is inactive if the AM-FM mode on the front radio
is in use.
While listening to a cassette tape, press the up arrow to
hear the next selection on the tape. Press the down arrow
to go back to the previous selection. The SEEK button is
inactive if the tape mode on the front radio is in use.
While listening to a CD, press the up arrow to hear the
next selection on the CD. Press the down arrow to go
back to the start of the current selection (if more than
eight seconds have played). The SEEK button is inactive
in the CD mode if the remote CD player or the CD
changer is in use.
P.SET PROG: The front passengers must be listening
to something different for each of these functions
to work:
D Press this button to seek through the preset radio
stations set on the pushbuttons on the main radio.
D When a cassette tape is playing, press this button to
go to the other side of the tape.
D When a CD is playing in the CD changer, press this
button to select a disc.
TAPE CD: Press this button to switch between the tape,
remote CD and console-mounted CD changer if all are
loaded. Press AM-FM to return to the radio when a
cassette tape or CD is playing. The inactive tape or CD
will remain safely inside the radio for future listening.
SCAN: Press and hold SEEK until the radio goes into
SCAN mode. SCAN allows you to listen to stations for
a few seconds. The receiver will continue to scan and
momentarily stop at each station until you press SEEK
again. The SCAN function is inactive if the AM-FM
mode on the front radio is in use.
3-13
Remote Compact Disc Player (If Equipped)
If you have this option, you can play one compact disc
(CD) at a time.
To load a CD into the player, hold the disc with the label
side up and insert it carefully into the player
(approximately halfway). The disc will automatically be
pulled into the player. If the radio is off and the ignition
is on when a CD is inserted, the radio will turn on and
begin playing the CD. It is possible to load and unload
CDs with the ignition off. To load a disc with the
ignition off, press the EJECT button on the remote
player and then insert the disc. To remove the disc, press
the EJECT button and remove the disc from the player.
3-14
A disc that has been ejected but is still sitting in the
remote CD player will be pulled back into the player
after approximately 30 seconds. This protects the disc
and player from damage. The disc will not start playing.
To remove the disc, press the EJECT button and remove
the disc from the player.
All of the compact disc functions are controlled by the
radio buttons except for EJECT. When a disc is in the
player, a CD symbol will appear on the display. When a
disc is playing, the letters CD will appear next to the CD
symbol in the bottom left corner. The track number will
also be displayed.
If the disc comes back out and ERR appears on the
display, it could be that:
D The disc is upside down.
D It is dirty, scratched or wet.
D There’s too much moisture in the air. (Wait about an
hour and try again.)
D You are driving on a very rough road.
Please contact your dealership if any error recurs or
cannot be corrected.
PREV (1): Press this button to go back to the start of
the current track if more than eight seconds have played.
Press PREV again to go to the previous track on
the disc.
NEXT (3): Press this button to advance to the next track
on the disc.
REV (4): Press and hold this button to quickly reverse
within a track. As the CD reverses, elapsed time will be
displayed to help you find the correct passage.
FWD (6): Press and hold this button to quickly advance
within a track. As the CD advances, elapsed time will be
displayed to help you find the correct passage.
SEEK: Press the left arrow while playing a CD to go
back to the start of the current track. It will go back to
the current track if more than eight seconds have played.
Press the left arrow again to go to previous tracks. Press
the right arrow to go to the next higher track on the disc.
RANDOM: Press P.SCAN to enter the random play
mode. RANDOM will appear on the display. While in
this mode, the tracks on the disc will be played in
random order. If you press SEEK, PREV or NEXT
while in the random mode, the previous or next track
will be scanned randomly. Press P.SCAN again to turn
off RANDOM and return to normal operation.
RECALL: Press this button to see what track is
currently playing. Press RECALL again within five
seconds to see how long the track has been playing.
When a new track starts to play, the track number will
also appear. Press RECALL a third time and the time of
day will be displayed.
TAPE AUX: With a disc loaded in the player and the
radio playing, press this button twice to play the remote
compact disc. To return to playing the radio, press
AM-FM. If the cassette tape player, remote CD player
and console-mounted CD changer are all loaded, press
TAPE AUX to switch between the tape, remote CD and
CD changer.
EJECT: Press this button on the remote player to eject a
compact disc.
3-15
Console-Mounted CD Changer
With the compact disc changer, you can play up to
six discs continuously. Normal size discs may be played
using the slots supplied in the magazine.
You must first load the magazine with discs before you
can play a compact disc. Load the CDs from bottom to
top, placing the discs in the magazine label side up. If
you load a disc label side down, the disc will not play
and an error will occur. Repeat this procedure for
loading up to six discs in the magazine.
Once you have loaded the discs in the magazine, slide
open the door of the compact disc (CD) changer. Push
the magazine into the changer in the direction of the
arrow marked on the magazine.
3-16
Close the door by sliding it all the way forward. When
the CD magazine is loaded, the changer will begin
checking for discs in the magazine. This will continue
for up to one and a half minutes, depending on the
number of discs loaded.
To eject the magazine from the player, slide the CD
changer door all the way open, then press EJECT.
Remember to keep the door closed whenever possible to
keep dirt and dust from getting inside the changer.
PROG (2): Press this button to select a disc. The disc
number and track number will be displayed.
NEXT (3): Press this button or the SEEK right arrow
to go to the next track. If you hold the button or press
it more than once, the player will continue moving
forward through the disc. The sound will mute
while seeking.
REV (4): Press and hold this button to reverse quickly
through a track selection. Release it to resume playing.
Whenever a CD magazine with discs is loaded in the
changer, the CD changer symbol will appear on the radio
display. If the CD changer is checking the magazine for
CDs, the CD symbol will flash on the display until the
changer is ready to play. When a CD begins playing, a
disc and track number will be displayed. The disc numbers
are listed on the front of the magazine.
FWD (6): Press and hold this button to advance quickly
through a track selection. Release it to resume playing.
All of the CD changer functions are controlled by the
radio buttons, except for ejecting the CD magazine.
P.SCAN: Press this button to hear the tracks in random,
rather than sequential, order. RANDOM will appear on
the display. Press P.SCAN again to turn off random play.
PREV (1): Press this button or the SEEK left arrow to
go to the previous track if the current selection has been
playing for less than eight seconds. If the PREV button
is pressed and the current selection has been playing for
more than eight seconds, it will go to the beginning of
the current selection. If you hold or press this button
more than once, the player will continue moving back
through the disc. The sound will mute while seeking.
SEEK: Press the right arrow to seek to the next
selection on the CD. Press the left arrow to search for
the previous selection on the CD. The sound will mute
while seeking.
TAPE AUX: Press this button three times if you have a
disc loaded in the changer and the radio is turned on, to
play a compact disc. Press AM-FM to return to the radio
when a compact disc is playing. Press TAPE AUX to
switch between the tape, remote CD (if equipped) and
console-mounted CD changer if all are loaded.
3-17
Compact Disc Changer Errors
Theft-Deterrent Feature
If ERR appears on the display, it could be that:
THEFTLOCKR is designed to discourage theft of your
radio. It works by using a secret code to disable all radio
functions whenever battery power is removed.
D You are driving on a very rough road.
(The disc should play when the road gets smoother.)
D A disc is upside down.
D It is dirty, scratched or wet.
D It is very humid.
The THEFTLOCK feature for the radio may be used or
ignored. If ignored, the system plays normally and the
radio is not protected by the feature. If THEFTLOCK is
activated, your radio will not operate if stolen.
D The disc player is very hot.
D The CD changer door is open. Completely close the
When THEFTLOCK is activated, the radio will display
LOC to indicate a locked condition anytime battery
power has been interrupted. If your battery loses power
for any reason, you must unlock the radio with the secret
code before it will operate.
(If so, wait about an hour and try again.)
changer door to restore normal operation.
D An empty magazine is inserted in the CD changer.
Try the magazine again with a disc loaded on one of
the trays.
Press RECALL to make ERR go off the display.
If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error cannot be
corrected, please contact your dealer.
3-18
Activating the Theft-Deterrent Feature
The instructions which follow explain how to enter your
secret code to activate the THEFTLOCK system. It is
recommended that you read through all nine steps
before starting the procedure.
If you allow more than 15 seconds to elapse between
any steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and
you must start the procedure over at Step 4.
1. Write down any three or four-digit number from
000 to 1999 and keep it in a safe place separate from
the vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN.
3. Turn the radio off.
4. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down
until --- shows on the display. Next you will use the
secret code number which you have written down.
5. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.
6. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree
with your code.
7. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree
with your code.
8. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the
code matches the secret code you have written down.
The display will show REP to let you know that you
need to repeat Steps 5 through 7 to confirm your
secret code.
9. Press AM-FM and this time the display will show
SEC to let you know that your radio is secure. The
LED indicator by the volume control will begin
flashing when the ignition is turned off.
Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a
Power Loss
Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than
15 seconds between steps:
1. Turn the ignition on. LOC will appear on the display.
2. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.
3. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree
with your code.
4. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree
with your code.
5. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the
code matches the secret code you have written down.
The display will show SEC, indicating the radio is
now operable and secure.
If you enter the wrong code eight times, INOP will
appear on the display. You will have to wait an hour
with the ignition on before you can try again. When you
try again, you will only have three chances to enter the
correct code before INOP appears.
If you lose or forget your code, contact your dealer.
3-19
Disabling the Theft-Deterrent Feature
Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than
15 seconds between steps:
To unlock a secured radio, see “Unlocking the
Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss” earlier in
this section.
1. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN.
Understanding Radio Reception
2. Turn the radio off.
AM
3. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down
until SEC shows on the display.
The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM,
especially at night. The longer range, however, can
cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick
up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try
reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.
4. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.
5. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree
with your code.
6. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree
with your code.
7. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the
code matches the secret code you have written down.
The display will show ---, indicating that the radio is
no longer secured.
If the code entered is incorrect, SEC will appear on the
display. The radio will remain secured until the correct
code is entered.
When battery power is removed and later applied to a
secured radio, the radio won’t turn on and LOC will
appear on the display.
3-20
FM Stereo
FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals
will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall
buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing
the sound to come and go.
Tips About Your Audio System
Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable
until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher
volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud
and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by
adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe
sound level before your hearing adapts to it.
To help avoid hearing loss or damage:
D Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting.
D Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably
and clearly.
NOTICE:
Before you add any sound equipment to your
vehicle -- like a tape player, CB radio, mobile
telephone or two-way radio -- be sure you can
add what you want. If you can, it’s very
important to do it properly. Added sound
equipment may interfere with the operation of
your vehicle’s engine, Delco Electronics radio or
other systems, and even damage them. Your
vehicle’s systems may interfere with the
operation of sound equipment that has been
added improperly.
So, before adding sound equipment, check with
your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules
covering mobile radio and telephone units.
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player
A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause
reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged
mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their
cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and
extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate
properly or may cause failure of the tape player.
Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every
50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLN to indicate
that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without
resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on
the display, your cassette tape player needs to be
cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as
soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and
player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a
known good cassette to see if it is the tape or the tape
player at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement
in sound quality, clean the tape player.
The recommended cleaning method for your cassette
tape player is the use of a scrubbing action,
non-abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub
the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn.
The recommended cleaning cassette is available through
your dealership (GM Part No. 12344789).
3-21
When using a scrubbing action, non-abrasive cleaning
cassette, it is normal for the cassette to eject because
your unit is equipped with a cut tape detection feature
and a cleaning cassette may appear as a broken tape. To
prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the
following steps.
After you clean the player, press and hold EJECT for
five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will
display --- to show the indicator was reset.
1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY.
Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality
may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette
tape is in good condition before you have your tape
player serviced.
2. Turn the radio off.
Care of Your Compact Discs
3. Press and hold the TAPE AUX button for five
seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash
for two seconds.
Handle discs carefully. Store them in their original cases
or other protective cases and away from direct sunlight
and dust. If the surface of a disc is soiled, dampen a
clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent solution and
clean it, wiping from the center to the edge.
4. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette.
5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s
recommended cleaning time.
When the cleaning cassette has been ejected, the cut tape
detection feature is active again.
You may also choose a non-scrubbing action, wet-type
cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean
the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not
eject on its own. A non-scrubbing action cleaner may
not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner.
The use of a non-scrubbing action, dry-type cleaning
cassette is not recommended.
3-22
Be sure never to touch the signal surface when handling
discs. Pick up discs by grasping the outer edges or the
edge of the hole and the outer edge.
Fixed Mast Antenna
The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes
without being damaged. If the mast should ever become
slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the
mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should
replace it.
Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still
tightened to the cowl.
✍
NOTES
3-23
✍
3-24
NOTES
Section 4 Your Driving and the Road
Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions.
We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.
4-2
4-3
4-6
4-6
4-9
4-11
4-12
4-13
4-14
4-28
Defensive Driving
Drunken Driving
Control of a Vehicle
Braking
Steering
Off-Road Recovery
Passing
Loss of Control
Off-Road Driving with Your
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle
Driving at Night
4-30
4-34
4-35
4-36
4-37
4-37
4-39
4-43
4-44
4-46
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
City Driving
Freeway Driving
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Highway Hypnosis
Hill and Mountain Roads
Winter Driving
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Loading Your Vehicle
Towing a Trailer
4-
4-1
Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.”
On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means
“always expect the unexpected.”
Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be
careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might
do. Be ready for their mistakes.
Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of
accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough
following distance. It’s the best defensive driving
maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never
know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake
or turn suddenly.
Defensive Driving
The best advice anyone can give about driving is:
Drive defensively.
Please start with a very important safety device in your
vehicle: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.)
4-2
Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on
the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving
task -- such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call,
reading, or reaching for something on the floor -- makes
proper defensive driving more difficult and can even
cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger
to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe
place to do them yourself. These simple defensive
driving techniques could save your life.
Drunken Driving
Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is
a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the
highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims
every year.
Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive
a vehicle:
D
D
D
D
Judgment
Muscular Coordination
Vision
Attentiveness.
Police records show that almost half of all motor
vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases,
these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking
and driving. In recent years, over 17,000 annual motor
vehicle-related deaths have been associated with the use
of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.
Many adults -- by some estimates, nearly half the adult
population -- choose never to drink alcohol, so they
never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s
against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol.
There are good medical, psychological and
developmental reasons for these laws.
The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety
problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then
drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much”
if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many
might think. Although it depends on each person and
situation, here is some general information on
the problem.
The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone
who is drinking depends upon four things:
D The amount of alcohol consumed
D The drinker’s body weight
D The amount of food that is consumed before and
during drinking
D The length of time it has taken the drinker to
consume the alcohol.
According to the American Medical Association, a
180-lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12-ounce
(355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a
BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the
same BAC by drinking three 4-ounce (120 ml) glasses
of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces
(45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.
4-3
Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a
woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a
man of her same body weight when each has the same
number of drinks.
The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC
of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and
throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some
other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all
commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent.
The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six
drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it
depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how
quickly the person drinks them.
It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if
the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces
or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s
BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who
consumes food just before or during drinking will have a
somewhat lower BAC level.
There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have
a lower relative percentage of body water than men.
4-4
But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC
of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills
of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching
0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night.
All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above
0.05 percent. Statistics show that the chance of being
in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a
BAC of 0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC
level of 0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of
having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the
chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times
greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is
25 times greater!
The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol
in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold
showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the
right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to
take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street?
A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able
to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.
There’s something else about drinking and driving that
many people don’t know. Medical research shows that
alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries
worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or
heart. This means that when anyone who has been
drinking -- driver or passenger -- is in a crash, that
person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled
is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous.
Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and
judgment can be affected by even a small amount
of alcohol. You can have a serious -- or even
fatal -- collision if you drive after drinking.
Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver
who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if
you’re with a group, designate a driver who will
not drink.
4-5
Control of a Vehicle
Braking
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where
you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and
the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work
at the places where the tires meet the road.
Braking action involves perception time and
reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.
That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your
foot and do it. That’s reaction time.
Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But
that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver
and as long as two or three seconds or more with
another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination
and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and
frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle
moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m).
That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so
keeping enough space between your vehicle and others
is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or
gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire
tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the
vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.
Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s
easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires
and road can provide. That means you can lose control
of your vehicle.
4-6
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in
spurts -- heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking -- rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a
mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between
hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you
do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the
traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will
eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means
better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake
normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the
pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine
stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But
you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is
used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal
will be harder to push.
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an
advanced electronic braking system that will help
prevent a braking skid.
When you start your engine and begin to drive away,
your anti-lock brake system will check itself. You may
hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test
is going on. This is normal.
If there’s a problem with the
anti-lock brake system, this
warning light will stay on.
See “Anti-Lock Brake
System Warning Light” in
the Index.
4-7
The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure
faster than any driver could. The computer is
programmed to make the most of available tire and
road conditions.
Here’s how anti-lock works. Let’s say the road is wet.
You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in
front of you.
You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one
of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will
separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at
both rear wheels.
4-8
You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on
wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: Anti-lock doesn’t change the time you need
to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease
stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in
front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes
if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave
enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have
anti-lock brakes.
Using Anti-Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down
firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel the
brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise, but this is
normal. Your anti-lock brakes work at all times -- whether
you are in two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive.
Braking in Emergencies
With anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the same
time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more
than even the very best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
Speed-Sensitive Steering
This system varies the amount of steering effort
proportionate to your vehicle speed. Steering is easier at
lower speeds for maneuvering and parking ease. As your
vehicle speed increases, the steering effort also
increases. At highway speeds, the amount of steering
effort is increased for vehicle control and stability.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The
traction of the tires against the road surface makes it
possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn
the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep
the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever
tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re
in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
4-9
Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you
suddenly accelerate. Both control systems -- steering and
acceleration -- have to do their work where the tires meet
the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too
much of those places. You can lose control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the
accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it
to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are
based on good weather and road conditions. Under less
favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a
curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
4-10
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective
than braking. For example, you come over a hill and
find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls
out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between
parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can
avoid these problems by braking -- if you can stop in
time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room.
That’s the time for evasive action -- steering around
the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies
like these. First apply your brakes. (See “Braking in
Emergencies” earlier in this section.) It is better to
remove as much speed as you can from a possible
collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left
or right depending on the space available.
Off-Road Recovery
You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the
edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.
An emergency like this requires close attention and a
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can
turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing
either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and
just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have
avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at
all times and wear safety belts properly.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so
that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement. You
can turn the steering wheel up to one-quarter turn until the
right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your
steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.
4-11
Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a
two-lane highway waits for just the right moment,
accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes
back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane
highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the
passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming
traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in
judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can
suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the
worst of all traffic accidents -- the head-on collision.
So here are some tips for passing:
D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to
crossroads for situations that might affect your passing
patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about
making a successful pass, wait for a better time.
D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.
If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a
turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken
center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass
(providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid
line on your side of the lane or a double solid line,
even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.
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D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass
while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing,
following too closely reduces your area of vision,
especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.
Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle
ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a
reasonable distance.
D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,
start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t
get too close. Time your move so you will be
increasing speed as the time comes to move into the
other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a
“running start” that more than makes up for the
distance you would lose by dropping back. And if
something happens to cause you to cancel your pass,
you need only slow down and drop back again and
wait for another opportunity.
D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait
your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to
pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle.
Remember to glance over your shoulder and check
the blind spot.
D Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and
start your left lane change signal before moving out
of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough
ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your
inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal
and move back into the right lane. (Remember that if
your right outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you
just passed may seem to be farther away from you
than it really is.)
D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on
two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the
next vehicle.
D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may
be slowing down or starting to turn.
D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the
following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you
can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering
and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the
tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to
steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of
less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking
reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by
not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are
always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too
much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and
lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too
much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the
vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your
vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
4-13
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll
want to slow down and adjust your driving to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
Off-Road Driving with Your
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle
This off-road guide is for vehicles that have
four-wheel drive.
Also, see “Anti-Lock Brakes” in the Index.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or
braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower
gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.
You may not realize the surface is slippery until your
vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues -- such as enough water, ice or packed snow on
the road to make a “mirrored surface” -- and slow
down when you have any doubt.
Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have
some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the
terrain itself.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s
why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll
find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help
make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable.
4-14
“Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North
American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t
marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs.
Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill.
In short, you’ve gone right back to nature.
Before You Go Off-Roading
There are some things to do before you go out. For
example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and
service work done. Check to make sure all underbody
shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure
you read all the information about your
four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough
fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels
up where they should be? What are the local laws that
apply to off-roading where you’ll be driving? If you
don’t know, you should check with law enforcement
people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private
land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.
Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving
There are some important things to remember about
how to load your vehicle.
D The heaviest things should be on the load floor and
forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far
forward as you can.
D Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on
the off-road terrain doesn’t toss things around.
CAUTION:
D Cargo on the load floor piled higher than
D
D
the seatbacks can be thrown forward
during a sudden stop. You or your
passengers could be injured. Keep cargo
below the top of the seatbacks.
Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be
tossed about when driving over rough terrain.
You or your passengers can be struck by
flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.
Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s
center of gravity, making it more likely to
roll over. You can be seriously or fatally
injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy
loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof.
Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward
and low as possible.
You’ll find other important information in this manual.
See “Vehicle Loading,” “Luggage Carrier” and “Tires”
in the Index.
4-15
Environmental Concerns
Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying
recreation. However, it also raises environmental
concerns. GM recognizes these concerns and urges
every off-roader to follow these basic rules for
protecting the environment:
D Always use established trails, roads and areas that
have been specially set aside for public off-road
recreational driving; obey all posted regulations.
D Avoid any driving practice that could damage the
environment -- shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses -- or
disturb wildlife (this includes wheel-spinning,
breaking down trees or unnecessary driving through
streams or over soft ground).
D Always carry a litter bag . . . make sure all refuse is
removed from any campsite before leaving.
D Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted),
camp stoves and lanterns.
D Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other
combustible materials that could catch fire from the
heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.
4-16
Traveling to Remote Areas
It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going
to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route.
You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get
accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any
blocked or closed roads.
It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other
vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other
can help quickly.
Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read
the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be
handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to
use it properly.
Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving
It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and
close to home before you go into the wilderness.
Off-road driving does require some new and different
driving skills. Here’s what we mean.
Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your
eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain
for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for
unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands,
feet and body, you’ll need to respond to vibrations and
vehicle bounce.
Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful
off-road driving. One of the best ways to control your
vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to
keep in mind. At higher speeds:
D you approach things faster and you have less time to
scan the terrain for obstacles.
D you have less time to react.
D you have more vehicle bounce when you drive
over obstacles.
D you’ll need more distance for braking, especially
since you’re on an unpaved surface.
CAUTION:
When you’re driving off-road, bouncing and
quick changes in direction can easily throw you
out of position. This could cause you to lose
control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on
or off the road, you and your passengers should
wear safety belts.
Scanning the Terrain
Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds
of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and
its many different features. Here are some things
to consider.
Surface Conditions. Off-roading can take you over
hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or
ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration
and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending
upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience
slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration,
poor traction and longer braking distances.
Surface Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be
hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you if
you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are
hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of
the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:
D Is the path ahead clear?
D Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
D Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?
(There’s more discussion of these subjects later.)
D Will you have to stop suddenly or change
direction quickly?
4-17
When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a
firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other
surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if
you’re not prepared.
When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles,
your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even
with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as
well or at all.
Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s
especially important to avoid sudden acceleration,
sudden turns or sudden braking.
In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of
alertness from driving on paved roads and highways.
There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal
lights. You have to use your own good judgment about
what is safe and what isn’t.
Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any
road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving.
At the very time you need special alertness and driving
skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be
affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could
have a serious -- or even fatal -- accident if you drink
and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking.
See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.
4-18
Driving on Off-Road Hills
Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a
hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and
an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do.
There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no
matter how well built the vehicle.
CAUTION:
Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle.
If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive
down them, you can’t control your speed. If you
drive across them, you will roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt
about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.
Approaching a Hill
Driving Uphill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of
those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend or cross.
Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for
example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only
a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the
way to the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper
as you near the top, but you may not see this because the
crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you approach
a hill.
D Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply
steeper in places?
D Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?
D Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
won’t have to make turning maneuvers?
D Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your
path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?
D What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk the
hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out.
D Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they
are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you
need to take some special steps.
D Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the
steering wheel.
D Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Don’t use more power than you need,
because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning
or sliding.
D Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.
If the path twists and turns, you might want to find
another route.
CAUTION:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide
sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills,
always try to go straight up.
4-19
D Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of
Q:
What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about
to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill?
D Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible
A:
If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First, here’s what you should do:
the hill.
to approaching traffic on trails or hills.
D Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to
let opposing traffic know you’re there.
D Use your headlamps even during the day. They make
you more visible to oncoming traffic.
CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can
cause an accident. There could be a drop-off,
embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You
could be seriously injured or killed. As you near
the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.
D Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it
from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.
D If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).
D If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking
brake still applied, shift the transmission to PARK (P)
and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R),
release the parking brake, and slowly back down the
hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).
D As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This
way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight
and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you
back down the hill with your wheels straight rather
than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel
too far to the left or right will increase the possibility
of a rollover.
4-20
Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are
about to stall, when going up a hill.
D Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) to “rev-up” the engine and regain
forward momentum. This won’t work. Your vehicle
will roll backwards very quickly and you could go
out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the
vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back straight down.
D Never attempt to turn around if you are about to
stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough
to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you
to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it
up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.
Q:
Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the
hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should
I do?
A:
Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK (P) and turn off the engine. Leave the
vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill
side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would
take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL (N) when you leave the vehicle.
Leave it in some gear.
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the manual
transmission, even if you’re in gear). This is
because the NEUTRAL (N) position on the
transfer case overrides the transmission. You or
someone else could be injured. If you are going
to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and
shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your
manual transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not
shift the transfer case to the NEUTRAL (N)
position. Leave the transfer case in the 2 Wheel
High, 4 High or 4 Low position.
4-21
Driving Downhill
When off-roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to
CAUTION:
consider a number of things:
D How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain
vehicle control?
D What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough?
Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?
D Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?
Logs? Boulders?
Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause
your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause
loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the
brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low
gear to keep vehicle speed under control.
D What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden
Q:
Are there some things I should not do when
driving down a hill?
If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to
keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low
gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and
they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly,
keeping your vehicle under control at all times.
A:
Yes! These are important because if you ignore
them you could lose control and have a
serious accident.
creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?
D When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you
across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too
steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across.
You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.
D Never go downhill with the transmission in
NEUTRAL (N). This is called “free-wheeling.”
Your brakes will have to do all the work and could
overheat and fade.
4-22
Q:
A:
Am I likely to stall when going downhill?
It’s much more likely to happen going uphill.
But if it happens going downhill, here’s what to do.
D Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.
Apply the parking brake.
D Shift to PARK (P) and, while still braking, restart
the engine.
D Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,
and drive straight down.
D If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.
Driving Across an Incline
Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across
the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide
whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some
things to consider:
D A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be
too steep to drive across. When you go straight up
or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the
distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels)
reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end
over end. But when you drive across an incline, the
much more narrow track width (the distance between
the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle
from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an
incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels.
This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.
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D Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive
across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet
grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill.
If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something
that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.
D Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the
incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with
the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into
a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.
For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully
whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the
trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to
drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.
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CAUTION:
Driving across an incline that’s too steep will
make your vehicle roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt
about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive
across it. Find another route instead.
Q:
What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not
too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to
slide downhill. What should I do?
A:
If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways,
turn downhill. This should help straighten out the
vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a
much better way to prevent this is to get out and
“walk the course” so you know what the surface is
like before you drive it.
Stalling on an Incline
If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be
sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill
side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get
out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll
over, you’ll be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
CAUTION:
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle
stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the
vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.
Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the
vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t
get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning
is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances.
It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud -- the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the
idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel
traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the
sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand
dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has
an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may
want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly
when driving on sand. This will improve traction.
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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet
ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will
have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving,
poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide
out of control.
CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under
the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your
vehicle could fall through the ice and you and
your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle
on safe surfaces only.
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Driving in Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems.
But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or
exhaust pipe, don’t try it -- you probably won’t get
through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle
and other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly.
At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and
your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get
your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is
under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine.
When you go through water, remember that when your
brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
After Off-Road Driving
CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.
Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream
and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s
only shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you could lose
traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive
through rushing water.
See “Driving Through Water” in the Index for more
information on driving through water.
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system
for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling
system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for
additional information.
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Driving at Night
Here are some tips on night driving.
D Drive defensively.
D Don’t drink and drive.
D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow
down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles.
D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your
headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.
D In remote areas, watch for animals.
D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place
and rest.
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving. One
reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired -- by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
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No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as
we get older these differences increase. A 50-year-old
driver may require at least twice as much light to see the
same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect your night
vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright
sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will
have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re
driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut
down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot
of things invisible.
You can be temporarily blinded by approaching
headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several
seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you
are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who
doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with
misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring
directly into the approaching headlamps.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle
clean -- inside and out. Glare at night is made much
worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass
can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes
lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would,
making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a
roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your
eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly
lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be
checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes
be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night
blindness -- the inability to see in dim light -- and
aren’t even aware of it.
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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet
road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because
your tire-to-road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads.
And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get
even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be
cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The
surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are
tuned for driving on dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your
windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain
can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals,
pavement markings, the edge of the road and even
people walking.
It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape
and keep your windshield washer tank filled with
washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts
when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on
the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate
from the inserts.
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CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work
as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to
one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water or
a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until
your brakes work normally.
Driving too fast through large water puddles or even
going through some car washes can cause problems, too.
The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles.
But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.
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Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re
going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning,
it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your
tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or
more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on
the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone
poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the
water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
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Driving Through Deep Standing Water
NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or
standing water, water can come in through your
engine’s air intake and badly damage your
engine. Never drive through water that is slightly
lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you
can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive
through them very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
If you try to drive through flowing water, as you
might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be
carried away. As little as six inches of flowing
water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this
happens, you and the other vehicle occupants
could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs,
and otherwise be very cautious about trying to
drive through flowing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you pass
another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room
ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted
by road spray.
D Have good tires with proper tread depth.
(See “Tires” in the Index.)
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City Driving
Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:
D Know the best way to get to where you are going.
Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown
part of the city just as you would for a
cross-country trip.
D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most
large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the
next part, “Freeway Driving.”)
D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic
light is there because the corner is busy enough to
need it. When a light turns green, and just before
you start to move, check both ways for vehicles
that have not cleared the intersection or may be
running the red light.
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the
amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for
what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to
traffic signals.
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Freeway Driving
At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the
freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you
drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to
check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to
blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to
the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check
your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as
necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow.
Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the
posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay
in the right lane unless you want to pass.
Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use
your turn signal.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your
shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your
“blind” spot.
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways,
expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest
of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep
up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same
speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or
too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the
left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you
allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move
slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper
lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not,
under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to
the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
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The exit speed is usually posted.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance
at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going
slower than you actually are.
D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Are all windows clean inside and outside?
D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked
all levels?
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you’re not fresh -- such as after a day’s
work -- don’t plan to make too many miles that first part
of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you
can easily drive in.
D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course,
you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GMC
dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready
and willing to help if you need it.
D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook
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recommended pressure?
along your route? Should you delay your trip a short
time to avoid a major storm system?
D Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
Highway Hypnosis
Hill and Mountain Roads
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”?
Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it
highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road with the
same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road,
the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against
the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen
to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less
than a second, and you could crash and be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis?
First, be aware that it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
comfortably cool interior.
D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead
and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your
instruments frequently.
D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in flat or rolling terrain.
or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or
both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as
an emergency.
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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off-Road
Driving” in the Index for information about driving
off-road.)
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to
do all the work of slowing down. They could get so
hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have your engine running
and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and
transmission. These parts can work hard on
mountain roads.
D Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the
slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so
hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would
then have poor braking or even none going
down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let
your engine assist your brakes on a steep
downhill slope.
D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
D
D
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or
an accident.
D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of
special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or
no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding
roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
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Winter Driving
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply
of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer
clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and
reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving
under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a
piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help
provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these
items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll
have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be
very careful.
Here are some tips for winter driving:
D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
4-39
Whatever the condition -- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow -- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti-lock braking system, you’ll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See “Anti-Lock” in the Index.
D Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about
freezing (32_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
4-40
until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you’ve been stopped by the snow.
D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body
insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor
mats -- anything you can wrap around yourself or
tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with your
vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help
and you can hike through the snow. Here are some
things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your
passengers safe:
D Turn on your hazard flashers.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
4-41
CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill
you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn’t collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help
keep CO out.
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
There may be times when you want to tow your vehicle
behind another vehicle for use at your destination. Be
sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for
recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions for
the towing equipment.
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission
is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission.
You or others could be injured. Make sure the
parking brake is firmly set before you shift the
transfer case into NEUTRAL.
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Use the following procedure to correctly tow your
vehicle on all four wheels:
Loading Your Vehicle
1. Firmly set the parking brake.
2. Place the transmission in PARK (P).
3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow vehicle.
4. With the engine running, shift the transfer case to
NEUTRAL (N). See “Four-Wheel Drive” in the
Index for the proper procedure to select the neutral
position for your vehicle.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks
the steering column and reduces battery drain.
Unlocking the steering column will allow the
proper movement of the front wheels and tires
during towing.
See “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index for
more information.
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The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of
the driver’s door.
The label shows the size of your original tires and the
inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight
capacity of your vehicle. This is called the Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the
weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on
your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help
you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on
both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the
GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
Your warranty does not cover parts or components that
fail because of overloading.
If you put things inside your vehicle -- like suitcases,
tools, packages, or anything else -- they go as fast as the
vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if
there is a crash, they’ll keep going.
CAUTION:
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can
break, and it can change the way your vehicle
handles. These could cause you to lose control
and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life
of your vehicle.
Using heavier suspension components to get added
durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask
your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike
and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in
a crash.
D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.
Try to spread the weight evenly.
D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle so that some of them are
above the tops of the seats.
D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in
your vehicle.
D When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you
need to.
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There’s also important loading information for off-road
driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for
Off-Road Driving” in the Index.
Towing a Trailer
CAUTION:
If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive
properly, you can lose control when you pull a
trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the
brakes may not work well -- or even at all. You
and your passengers could be seriously injured.
Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the
steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice
and information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.
NOTICE:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your
vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by
your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in this part, and see your dealer for
important information about towing a trailer
with your vehicle.
Your vehicle may be able to tow a trailer. To identify
what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle,
you should read the information in “Weight of the
Trailer” that appears later in this section.
If yours was built with trailering options, as many are,
it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
D There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
D the weight of the trailer,
D the weight of the trailer tongue
D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
D Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
The trailer should never weigh more than 6,000 lbs.
(2 722 kg). But even that can be too heavy.
weigh less than the capacity stamped on your step
bumper. You should always use a sway control if
your trailer will weigh more than the capacity
stamped on your step bumper. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a
trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the
driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it
has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of
additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in
the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum
trailer weight.
D You should tow in OVERDRIVE (B). You may want
to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary,
a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too
often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
4-47
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or
advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total or gross
weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any
cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be
riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you
must add the tongue load to the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading
Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about
your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
4-48
If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded
trailer weight (B). If you’re using a weight-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of
the total loaded trailer weight (B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or
see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t
go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the
weight of the trailer tongue.
D Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get
into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the
Index). Dirt and water can, too.
Hitches
Safety Chains
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules to follow:
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the
bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
D If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have
ample room when turning to avoid contact between
the trailer and the bumper.
D If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step
bumper, be sure to use a properly mounted,
weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the
proper size. This equipment is very important for
proper vehicle loading and good handling when
you’re driving.
4-49
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
D The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
D The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap
at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to
the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
4-50
Driving with a Trailer
CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide
(CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see
or smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness or
death. (See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.)
To maximize your safety when towing a trailer:
D Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
D Keep the rear-most windows closed.
D If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use the
recirculation button or MAX because it
only recirculates the air inside your vehicle.
(See “Comfort Controls” in the Index.)
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Following Distance
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
4-51
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you
are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
4-52
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
B
You should tow in AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE ( ).
You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or,
if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission
shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or
hilly conditions).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn
your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get the
overheat warning, see “Engine Overheating” in
the Index.
Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can
be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if
the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even
when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps
that follow.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake firmly set.
If the transfer case on four-wheel drive vehicles is
in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll,
even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be
sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not
in NEUTRAL.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking
brake, and then shift to PARK (P).
5. Be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear -- not in
NEUTRAL (N).
6. Release the regular brakes.
4-53
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
Trailer Wiring Harness
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
D Start your engine;
D Shift into a gear; and
D Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake system. Each of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
4-54
Light-Duty Wiring Harness
connector pair, have the technician attach one connector
to the eight-wire trailer harness and the other connector
to the wiring harness on the trailer. Be sure that the
wiring harness on the trailer is strapped to the trailer’s
frame and leave it loose enough so that the wiring
doesn’t bend or break, but not so loose that it drags on
the ground. The technician can use the following color
code chart when connecting the wiring harness to
your trailer.
Additional Heavy-Duty Wiring
An eight-wire harness is stored under the rear bumper of
your vehicle. The five-wire light-duty harness is located
at the left hand rear inner lower quarter panel. The
additional heavy-duty wiring is located forward of the
rear bumper and is attached to the center of the rear
crossmember or the forward vertical surface of the
platform hitch.
This harness has a 30 amp battery feed wire and no
connector, and should be wired by a qualified electrical
technician. After choosing an aftermarket mating
D
D
D
D
D
D
Brown: Rear Lamps
Yellow: Left Stoplamp and Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stoplamp and Turn Signal
White (Heavy Gauge): Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
White (Light Gauge): Center High-Mounted Stop
Lamp (If Equipped)
D Blue: Auxiliary/Electric Trailer Brake Circuit
(If Equipped)
D Orange: Fused Auxiliary Circuit (If Equipped)
Store the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness
together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.
4-55
✍
4-56
NOTES
✍
NOTES
4-57
✍
4-58
NOTES
Section 5 Problems On The Road
Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.
5-2
5-2
5-3
5-8
5-9
Hazard Warning Flashers
Other Warning Devices
Jump Starting
Towing Your Vehicle
Engine Overheating
5-11
5-19
5-19
5-20
5-34
Cooling System
Engine Fan Noise
If a Tire Goes Flat
Changing a Flat Tire
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
5-
5-1
Hazard Warning Flashers
Press the button located on
the top of the steering
column all the way down to
make your front and rear
turn signal lamps flash on
and off.
Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what
position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.
To turn off the flashers, push the button until the first
click and release.
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They
also let police know you have a problem. Your front and
rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.
5-2
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn
signals won’t work.
Other Warning Devices
If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at
the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind
your vehicle.
Jump Starting
If your battery has run down, you may want to use another
vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But
please use the following steps to do it safely.
CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be
dangerous because:
D They contain acid that can burn you.
D They contain gas that can explode or ignite.
D They contain enough electricity to
burn you.
If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all
of these things can hurt you.
NOTICE:
Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage
to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty.
The ACDelcoR battery in your vehicle has a
built-in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump
start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or
light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a
clear or light yellow hydrometer and a
cranking complaint.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling
it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.
5-3
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
NOTICE:
If the other system isn’t a 12-volt system with a
negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to
start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
5-4
3. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set
the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in
the jump start procedure. Put an automatic
transmission in PARK (P). Be sure the transfer case
is not in NEUTRAL (N).
4. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off all lamps
that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid
sparks and help save both batteries. And it could
save your radio!
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly
damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty.
5. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the
positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on each battery.
CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery
gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this,
and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if
you need more light.
Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t
need to add water to the ACDelcoR battery
installed in every new GM vehicle. But if a
battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount
of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care
of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could
be present.
Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.
Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in
your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with
water and get medical help immediately.
6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock.
The vehicles could be damaged, too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic
things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) and negative (-) will go to a heavy
unpainted metal engine part. Don’t connect
positive (+) to negative (-) or you’ll get a short
that would damage the battery and maybe other
parts, too.
CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you
badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts
once the engine is running.
5-5
8. Don’t let the other end
touch metal. Connect it
to the positive (+)
terminal of the
good battery.
7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.
9. Now connect the black
negative (-) cable to
the good battery’s
negative (-) cable.
Don’t let the other end
touch anything until the
next step. The other end
of the negative (-) cable
doesn’t go to the dead
battery. It goes to a heavy
unpainted metal engine
part of the vehicle with
the dead battery.
5-6
13. Remove the cables in reverse order to prevent
electrical shorting. Take care that they don’t touch
each other or any other metal.
10. Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away
from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that
move. The electrical connection is just as good
there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the
battery is much less.
11. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
A. Heavy Metal Engine Part
B. Good Battery
C. Dead Battery
12. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.
If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably
needs service.
5-7
Towing Your Vehicle
CAUTION:
To help avoid serious personal injury to you
or others:
D Never let passengers ride in a vehicle that is
being towed.
D Never tow faster than safe or posted speeds.
D Never tow with damaged parts not
fully secured.
D Never get under your vehicle after it has
been lifted by the tow truck.
D Always secure the vehicle on each side with
separate safety chains when towing it.
D Use only the correct hooks.
NOTICE:
Use the proper towing equipment to avoid
damage to the bumper, fascia or fog lamp areas
of the vehicle.
With current trends in automotive styles and design, it
is essential that the correct towing equipment is used to
tow a vehicle. Your vehicle can be towed with wheel-lift
equipment or car carrier equipment. The transfer case
must be placed in NEUTRAL (N). The towing limits
for wheel-lift equipment are:
D Front Towing -- 55 mph (88 km/h) or legal
speed limit and distance is unlimited
D Rear Towing -- 35 mph (55 km/h) for
50 miles (80 km)
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside
Assistance” in the Index.
5-8
Engine Overheating
You will find a coolant temperature gage on your
vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant
Temperature Gage” in the Index.
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you
badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away
from the engine if you see or hear steam coming
from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away
from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until
there is no sign of steam or coolant before you
open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or
others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if
it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the
engine is cool.
NOTICE:
If your engine catches fire because you keep
driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be
badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty.
5-9
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no
steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes
the engine can get a little too hot when you:
D
D
D
D
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while
driving -- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE ( ).
B
5-10
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can
drive normally.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast
as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off
the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it
cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
Cooling System
When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what
you’ll see:
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at
or above the COLD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a
leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water
pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
A. Coolant Recovery Tank
B. Radiator Pressure Cap
C. Engine Fan
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling,
don’t do anything else until it cools down.
5-11
CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine
parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you
do, you can be burned.
Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run
the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could
cause an engine fire, and you could be burned.
Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
NOTICE:
Engine damage from running your engine
without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.
5-12
NOTICE:
When adding coolant, it is important that you
use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant.
If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to
the system, premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the
engine coolant will require change sooner -- at
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months,
whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the
use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not
covered by your new vehicle warranty.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again.
See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle
speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down.
If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off
the engine.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant
Recovery Tank
NOTICE:
If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level
isn’t at or above the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture
of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOLR engine
coolant at the coolant recovery tank. (See “Engine
Coolant” in the Index for more information.)
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack
the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Use the recommended coolant and the proper
coolant mixture.
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system
can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other
liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper
coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant
warning system is set for the proper coolant
mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture,
your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t
get the overheat warning. Your engine could
catch fire and you or others could be burned.
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water
and DEX-COOLR coolant.
5-13
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot
engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol
and it will burn if the engine parts are hot
enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or
above the COLD mark, start your vehicle.
If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more
thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant
mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling
system is cool before you do it.
5-14
CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling
system can blow out and burn you badly. They
are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator
pressure cap -- even a little -- they can come out
at high speed. Never turn the cap when the
cooling system, including the radiator pressure
cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and
radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to
turn the pressure cap.
5-15
How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push
down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the
cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap
and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the
pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first
stops. (Don’t press down while turning the
pressure cap.)
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means
there is still some pressure left.
5-16
3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX-COOLR
coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck.
(See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for more
information about the proper coolant mixture.)
4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the
COLD mark.
5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but
leave the radiator pressure cap off.
5-17
6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOLR coolant mixture
through the filler neck until the level reaches the
base of the filler neck.
5-18
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the
filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the
arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.
Engine Fan Noise
If a Tire Goes Flat
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop -- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
5-19
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard
warning flashers.
CAUTION:
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over you or other
people. You and they could be badly injured.
Find a level place to change your tire. To help
prevent the vehicle from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. Be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear -- not in NEUTRAL.
4. Turn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t move,
you can put blocks at the front and rear of the
tire farthest away from the one being changed.
That would be the tire on the other side of the
vehicle, at the opposite end.
5-20
The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
1. To open the jack cover, turn the wing nut
counterclockwise and take the cover off.
2. To take the jack out, turn the wing-head bolt
counterclockwise and take it and the retainer off.
Take the jack and storage box out. Remove the tools
from the storage box.
3. Your vehicle may have a pair of emergency gloves
secured to the jack. You can use them when
changing the tire, or during other emergency
situations. Remember to replace them with the jack,
so you will have them if needed later.
The spare tire is stored under the vehicle in an
underbody carrier.
The equipment you’ll need is located in the rear
cargo area. The spare tire is located under the rear of
the vehicle.
5-21
Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire:
1. One side of the ratchet has an UP marking. The
other side has a DOWN marking. Assemble the
ratchet to the hook near the end of the jack handle
(as illustrated) with the DOWN marking facing you.
Insert the other end through the hole in the rear
bumper and into the hoist shaft.
2. Turn the ratchet counterclockwise to lower the spare
tire to the ground. Continue to turn the ratchet until
the spare tire can be pulled out from under
the vehicle.
A. Hoist Assembly
3. When the tire has been lowered, tilt the retainer at
the end of the cable so it can be pulled up through
the wheel opening.
B. Hoist Shaft
4. Put the spare tire near the flat tire.
C. Ratchet
D. Jack Handle
E. Retainer
F. Valve Stem, Pointed Down
G. Spare Tire
5-22
The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), the jack
handle extension (B), the jack handle (C), the wheel
wrench (D) and the ratchet (E).
Attach the jack handle (and jack handle extension, if
needed) to the jack.
The jack handle extension is used if the flat tire is on the
rear of the vehicle.
5-23
UP Marking
DOWN Marking
One side of the ratchet has an UP marking. The other
side has a DOWN marking.
5-24
With the UP marking on the ratchet facing you, rotate
the ratchet clockwise. That will lift the jack head a little.
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the
Spare Tire
To access the lug nuts, place the wheel wrench in the
slot on the wheel and gently pry off the center piece to
remove it.
1. Use the ratchet and wheel wrench to loosen all the
wheel nuts. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise,
with DOWN facing you, to loosen the wheel nuts.
Don’t remove the wheel nuts yet.
2. If the flat tire is on the rear of the vehicle, put the
jack handle extension on the jack handle.
5-25
CAUTION:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is
dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you
could be badly injured or killed. Never get under
a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
3. Position the jack under the vehicle. If the flat tire is
on the front of the vehicle, position the jack on the
frame behind the flat tire. If the flat tire is on the rear
of the vehicle, position the jack on the axle near the
flat tire between the spring and the shock absorber.
5-26
CAUTION:
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly
positioned can damage the vehicle and even make
the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and
vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head
into the proper location before raising the vehicle.
5. Remove all the wheel
nuts and take off the
flat tire.
Front Position
Rear Position
4. With UP on the ratchet facing you, raise the vehicle
by rotating the ratchet and wheel wrench clockwise.
Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there
is enough room for the spare tire to fit.
5-27
6. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces and
spare wheel.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which
it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become
loose after a time. The wheel could come off and
cause an accident. When you change a wheel,
remove any rust or dirt from the places where the
wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you
can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be
sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you
need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
5-28
CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could
fall off, causing a serious accident.
7. Replace the wheel nuts
with the rounded end of
the nuts toward the
wheel. Tighten each
wheel nut by hand with
the wheel wrench until
the wheel is held against
the hub.
Front Position
Rear Position
8. Lower the vehicle by rotating the ratchet and wheel
wrench counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
9. Tighten each wheel nut by rotating the wheel
wrench clockwise.
5-29
10. Tighten the nuts
firmly in a crisscross
sequence as shown.
Rotate the wheel
wrench clockwise.
CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened
wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose
and even come off. This could lead to an accident.
Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have
to replace them, be sure to get new GM original
equipment wheel nuts.
Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have
the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to
140 lb-ft (190 N·m)
NOTICE:
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to
brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specification.
5-30
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools
Replace the jack storage cover by simply reversing the
removal procedure described earlier.
CAUTION:
Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the
passenger compartment of the vehicle could
cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose
equipment could strike someone. Store all these
in the proper place.
Store the flat tire where the spare tire is stored.
Put the tools into the storage box and close it tightly. Fit
the storage box on the bracket with the bolt through the
box. Put the jack onto the box. Be sure the jack is stored
as shown in the following illustrations. The jack handle
attachment point is circled in the following illustrations
to show the direction the jack should face when it is
stored properly. Secure the emergency gloves, if your
vehicle has them, to the jack using the provided strap.
Slide the retainer over the bolt onto the jack and put the
wing nut on it. Turn the nut clockwise until it is tight
against the retainer.
Jacking Tool Storage
A. Wheel Wrench
B. Jack Handle
C. Ratchet
D. Jack Storage Box
E. Jacking Tool
Storage Box
5-31
Jack Storage
A. Retainer
B. Nut
C. Jack
5-32
D. Jack Storage Box
E. Bracket
Spare Tire Storage
A.
B.
C.
D.
Hoist Assembly
Hoist Shaft
Ratchet
Jack Handle
E. Retainer
F. Valve Stem,
Pointed Down
G. Spare Tire
Follow these instructions to restore a spare or flat tire:
1. Lay the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle.
Position the tire so that the valve stem is pointed
down and to the rear of the vehicle.
2. Tilt the retainer downward and through the wheel
opening. Make sure that the retainer is fully seated
across the underside of the wheel.
3. Attach the ratchet, with the UP mark facing you,
near the hook at the end of the jack handle. Insert the
other end, on an angle, through the hole in the rear
bumper and into the hoist shaft.
4. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the
vehicle. Continue turning the ratchet clockwise until
there are two “clicks” or “ratchets.” The spare tire
hoist cannot be over-tightened.
5. Grasp and push against the tire to be sure it is stored
securely and does not move.
6. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the
vehicle. Continue turning the ratchet until the tire is
secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist
cannot be overtightened.
7. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and
then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves,
use the ratchet to tighten the cable.
5-33
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
NOTICE:
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin
your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking”
can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must
use caution.
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your
vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels
too fast while shifting your transmission back
and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you’re
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown
on the speedometer.
5-34
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see “Tire Chains” in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
Using the Recovery Hooks
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. Shift
the transfer case into 4HI. Then shift back and forth
between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning
the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may
free your vehicle. If that doesn’t get you out after a few
tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use
your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you
do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle”
in the Index.
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The
recovery hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle.
You may need to use them if you’re stuck off-road
and need to be pulled to some place where you can
continue driving.
5-35
CAUTION:
The recovery hooks, when used, are under a lot
of force. Always pull the vehicle straight out.
Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The
hooks could break off and you or others could be
injured from the chain or cable snapping back.
NOTICE:
Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle.
Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not
be covered by warranty.
5-36
✍
NOTES
5-37
✍
5-38
NOTES
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6-2
6-3
6-5
6-5
6-8
6-8
6-11
6-15
6-17
6-21
6-21
6-23
6-26
6-27
6-28
Service
Fuel
Fuels in Foreign Countries
Filling Your Tank
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
Engine Oil
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Rear Axle
Four-Wheel Drive
Engine Coolant
Radiator Pressure Cap
Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid
6-29
6-33
6-33
6-39
6-40
6-48
6-48
6-51
6-52
6-56
6-57
6-58
6-63
6-65
6-67
Brakes
Battery
Bulb Replacement
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Tires
Appearance Care
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Care of Safety Belts
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Electrical System
Replacement Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
6-
6-1
Service
Doing Your Own Service Work
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to
be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for
all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and
GM-trained and supported service people.
If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll
want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much
more about how to service your vehicle than this manual
can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service
and Owner Publications” in the Index.
We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting
to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your
Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and
list the mileage and the date of any service work you
perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.
6-2
CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be
damaged if you try to do service work on a
vehicle without knowing enough about it.
D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts
and tools before you attempt any vehicle
maintenance task.
D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and
other fasteners. “English” and “metric”
fasteners can be easily confused. If you use
the wrong fasteners, parts can later break
or fall off. You could be hurt.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle
Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can
affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise
and affect windshield washer performance. Check with
your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of
your vehicle.
Fuel
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or
higher. It is recommended that the gasoline meet
specifications which have been developed by the
American Automobile Manufacturers Association
(AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor
Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle
performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting
the AAMA specification could provide improved
driveability and emission control system performance
compared to other gasolines.
Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is
less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when
you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and
you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.
But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when
you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal,
and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get
rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that
means you have a problem.
6-3
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control
label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet
California specifications. If such fuels are not available
in states adopting California emissions standards,
your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting
federal specifications, but emission control system
performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator
lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your
vehicle may fail a smog-check test. (See “Malfunction
Indicator Lamp” in the Index.) If this occurs, return to
your authorized GMC dealer for diagnosis to determine
the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the
cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs
may not be covered by your warranty.
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States
are now required to contain additives that will help
prevent deposits from forming in your engine and
fuel system, allowing your emission control system
to function properly. Therefore, you should not have
to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines
containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and
reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to
contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that
you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with
the specifications described earlier.
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low
emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive
called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT); ask your service station operator whether or
not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not
recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing
MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your
emission control system performance may be affected.
The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument
panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your
authorized GMC dealer for service.
Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that
contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode
metal parts in your fuel system and also damage
plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t
be covered under your warranty.
6-4
NOTICE:
Fuels in Foreign Countries
Filling Your Tank
If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to
find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not
recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs
caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty.
To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or
contact a major oil company that does business in the
country where you’ll be driving.
You can also write us at the following address for
advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the
driver’s side of your vehicle.
6-5
CAUTION:
Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns
violently, and that can cause very bad injuries.
Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling
your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking
materials away from gasoline.
While refueling, let the cap hang by the tether below the
fuel filler neck.
To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the
left (counterclockwise).
6-6
CAUTION:
If you get gasoline on yourself and then
something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the
fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen
if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in
hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and
wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew
the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from
painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the
Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.
When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure
you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can
determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly
installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the
atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in
the Index.
NOTICE:
If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right
type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get
the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may
cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light
and your fuel tank and emissions system may be
damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in
the Index.
6-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in
your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the
container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can
be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this
occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
D Dispense gasoline only into
approved containers.
D Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or
on any surface other than the ground.
D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating
the nozzle. Contact should be maintained
until the filling is complete.
D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.
6-8
Checking Things Under the Hood
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary
engine fan under the hood can start up and
injure you even when the engine is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any
underhood electric fan.
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and
start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil,
coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other
fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could
be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things
that will burn onto a hot engine.
Hood Release
To open the hood, first
pull the handle inside
the vehicle.
Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the
secondary hood release, located just to the passenger’s
side of the center of the grill.
Lift the hood.
Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on
properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.
6-9
“VORTEC” 5700 V8 Engine
When you lift up the hood you’ll see:
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
Battery
Coolant Recovery Tank
Radiator Cap
Air Cleaner
Air Filter Restriction Indicator
6-10
F. Engine Oil Dipstick
G. Automatic Transmission
Dipstick
H. Fan
I. Engine Oil Fill
J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir
L. Windshield Washer
Fluid Reservoir
M. Fuse/Relay Center
Checking Engine Oil
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to
drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick
might not show the actual level.
It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must
be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
Engine Oil
The engine oil dipstick has a yellow ring handle and is
located on the passenger’s side of the engine.
6-11
When to Add Engine Oil
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need
to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the
right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For
crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications”
in the Index.
Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by
looking for the starburst symbol.
NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so
much oil that the oil level gets above the upper
mark that shows the proper operating range,
your engine could be damaged.
This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by
the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any
oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.
If you change your own oil,
be sure you use oil that has
the starburst symbol on the
front of the oil container.
The engine oil fill cap is located on the driver’s side
engine valve cover.
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in
the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way
back in when you’re through.
If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil
put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute
certified for gasoline engines.
You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your
vehicle, as shown in the following chart:
6-12
As shown in the chart, SAE 5W-30 is best for your
vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W-30 if it’s going
to be 0 F (-18 C) or above. These numbers on an oil
container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use
other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W-50.
_
_
NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst
symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil
can result in engine damage not covered by
your warranty.
GM GoodwrenchR oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are in an area where the temperature falls below
-20_F (-29_C), consider using either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide
easier cold starting and better protection for your engine
at extremely low temperatures.
6-13
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils
with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good
performance and engine protection.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city
maintenance schedule:
D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.
D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic).
D You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or
off-road frequently.
D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on
top of your vehicle.
D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months -- whichever
occurs first.
6-14
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months -- whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed
engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to
break down slower.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain
elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could
even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin
for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and
water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw
away clothing or rags containing used engine oil.
(See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and
disposal of oil products.)
Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all free-flowing oil
from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of
oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground,
into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead,
recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.
If you have a problem properly disposing of your used
oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling
center for help.
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
The air cleaner assembly
has an indicator that lets
you know when the air
filter is dirty and needs
to be serviced.
The indicator is located in the air intake tube between
the air cleaner and the engine. See “Owner Checks and
Services” in the Index to determine when to check
the indicator.
Your air cleaner is located between the battery and
coolant recovery tank.
If the area inside the clear section of the indicator is
green, no air filter service is required. When the area
inside the indicator is orange and CHANGE AIR
FILTER appears, the filter should be replaced.
6-15
To remove the air filter:
1. Unhook the retainer clips and remove the cover.
2. Lift the filter and the connected duct out of the air
cleaner housing. Hold the duct and remove the filter
by both pulling and twisting the filter away from the
duct. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt
as possible.
3. Clean the filter sealing surface of the duct and the
filter housing.
6-16
4. Install the new filter by pushing it all the way to the
stop on the duct.
5. Install the duct and the filter into the air cleaner
housing. Make sure that the duct fits properly into
the housing.
6. Install the cover and fasten the two retaining clips.
7. After the air filter is properly serviced, the indicator
should be reset. Push the button on top of the
indicator to reset it to the green (clean) filter zone.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to
replace the air filter. See “Owner Checks and Services”
in the Index.
CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter
off can cause you or others to be burned. The air
cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if
the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the
engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t
drive with it off, and be careful working on the
engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
NOTICE:
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause
a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get
into your engine, which will damage it. Always
have the air cleaner/filter in place when
you’re driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90_F (32_C) or higher.
D In hilly or mountainous terrain.
D When doing frequent trailer towing.
D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
6-17
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult,
you may choose to have this done at the dealership
service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the
instructions here, or you could get a false reading
on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your
transmission. Too much can mean that some of
the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be
sure to get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission fluid.
6-18
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
D
D
D
D
When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at
normal operating temperature, which is
180_F to 200_F (82_C to 93_C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are above
50_F (10_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the
vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then
follow the hot check procedures.
Checking Transmission Fluid Cold
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting
for eight hours or more with the engine off and is used
only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five
minutes if outside temperatures are 50_F (10_C) or
more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have
to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low
during a cold check, you must perform a hot check
before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate
reading of the fluid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
1. The red transmission dipstick is located at the rear of
the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side.
Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and
wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
6-19
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while
it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.)
If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper
fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot
check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than
one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRONR-III, because fluid with that label is
made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRONR-III
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described
under “How to Check.”
D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
6-20
Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
Four-Wheel Drive
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections” in the Index.
6-21
How to Check Lubricant
Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
Use care not to overtighten plug.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
6-22
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you may need to add some lubricant.
When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to
raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler
plug hole.
When the differential is at operating temperature
(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the
bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with
DEX-COOLR engine coolant. This coolant is designed
to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles
(240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only
DEX-COOLR extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how to
add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with
engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in
the Index.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX-COOLR coolant will:
D
D
D
D
D
Give freezing protection down to -34_F (-37_C).
Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C).
Protect against rust and corrosion.
Help keep the proper engine temperature.
Let the warning gages work as they should.
NOTICE:
When adding coolant, it is important that you
use only DEX-COOLR (silicate-free) coolant.
If coolant other than DEX-COOL is added to
the system, premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the
engine coolant will require change sooner -- at
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months,
whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the
use of coolant other than DEX-COOLR is not
covered by your new vehicle warranty.
6-23
What to Use
Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and
one-half DEX-COOLR coolant which won’t damage
aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you
don’t need to add anything else.
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system
can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other
liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper
coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant
warning system is set for the proper coolant
mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture,
your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t
get the overheat warning. Your engine could
catch fire and you or others could be burned.
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water
and DEX-COOLR coolant.
6-24
NOTICE:
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your
engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your
warranty. Too much water in the mixture can
freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core
and other parts.
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year,
have your dealer check your cooling system.
NOTICE:
If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to
add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to
improve the system. These can be harmful.
Checking Coolant
CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the
engine and radiator are hot can allow steam
and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you
badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will
almost never have to add coolant at the radiator.
Never turn the radiator pressure cap -- even a
little -- when the engine and radiator are hot.
Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful
not to spill it.
The coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s
side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD
mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the
level should be at the HOT mark, or a little higher.
Adding Coolant
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot
engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol,
and it will burn if the engine parts are hot
enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOLR
coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.
6-25
Radiator Pressure Cap
NOTICE:
Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa)
pressure-type cap and must be tightly installed to
prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage
from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap
line up with the overflow tube on the radiator
filler neck.
The radiator pressure cap must be tightly installed with
the arrows on the cap lined up with the overflow tube on
the radiator filler neck.
6-26
Power Steering Fluid
How to Check Power Steering Fluid
When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and
the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and
wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and
completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and
look at the fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If
necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to
the mark.
What to Use
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper
fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering
fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
6-27
Windshield Washer Fluid
What to Use
When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read
the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be
operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature
may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient
protection against freezing.
NOTICE:
D When using concentrated washer fluid,
D
Adding Washer Fluid
D
D
Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY.
Add washer fluid until the tank is full.
6-28
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for
adding water.
Don’t mix water with ready-to-use washer
fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze
and damage your washer fluid tank and
other parts of the washer system. Also,
water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.
Fill your washer fluid tank only
three-quarters full when it’s very cold.
This allows for expansion if freezing occurs,
which could damage the tank if it is
completely full.
Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage
your washer system and paint.
Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder
reservoir is here. It is filled
with DOT-3 brake fluid.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid
when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much
fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is
done on the brake hydraulic system.
CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on
the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is
hot enough. You or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake
fluid only when work is done on the brake
hydraulic system.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in
the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake
fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal
brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid
level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is
leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should
have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that
sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t
work at all.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to
check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections” in the Index.
6-29
Checking Brake Fluid
What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake
fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants”
in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed
container only.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area
around the cap before removing it. This will help keep
dirt from entering the reservoir.
CAUTION:
You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.
Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level
should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system
checked to see if there is a leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system,
make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the
MAX mark.
6-30
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake
system, your brakes may not work well, or they
may not even work at all. This could cause a
crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
NOTICE:
D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage
D
brake system parts. For example, just a few
drops of mineral-based oil, such as engine
oil, in your brake system can damage brake
system parts so badly that they’ll have to be
replaced. Don’t let someone put in the
wrong kind of fluid.
If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s
painted surfaces, the paint finish can be
damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid
on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off
immediately. See “Appearance Care” in
the Index.
Brake Wear
Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a
high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn
and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or
be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when
you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon
your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to
an accident. When you hear the brake wear
warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn-out brake pads
could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied.
This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect
brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the
proper sequence to GM specifications.
6-31
Your rear drum brakes don’t have wear indicators, but
if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the
rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear
brake drums should be removed and inspected each time
the tires are removed for rotation or changing. When
you have the front brake pads replaced, have the rear
brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual
under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal
travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes
adjust for wear.
If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your
rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by
backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.
6-32
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many
parts have to be of top quality and work well together
if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle
was designed and tested with top-quality GM brake parts.
When you replace parts of your braking system -- for
example, when your brake linings wear down and you
have to have new ones put in -- be sure you get new
approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your
brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if
someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your
vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes
can change -- for the worse. The braking performance
you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways
if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Fluid Leak Check
After the vehicle has been parked for awhile, inspect the
surface under the vehicle for water, oil, fuel or other
fluids. Water dripping from the air conditioning system
after it has been used is normal. If you notice fuel leaks
or fumes, the causes should be found and corrected
at once.
Battery
Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free
ACDelcoR battery. When it’s time for a new battery,
get one that has the replacement number shown on
the original battery’s label. We recommend an
ACDelco battery.
Vehicle Storage
If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days
or more, remove the black, negative (-) cable
from the battery. This will help keep your battery
from running down.
CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas
that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you
aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index
for tips on working around a battery without
getting hurt.
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle
for longer storage periods.
Also, for your audio system, see “Theft-Deterrent
Feature” in the Index.
Bulb Replacement
Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps
are off and the engine isn’t running. For the proper bulb
type, see “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index. For any
bulb changing procedure not listed in this section,
contact your dealer’s service department.
Halogen Bulbs
CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and
can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You
or others could be injured. Be sure to read and
follow the instructions on the bulb package.
6-33
Headlamps
Headlamp Removal
1. Remove the parking/turn signal assembly as
described under “Parking /Turn Signal Lamp
Removal” following this procedure.
2. Remove the two turn signal bulb sockets and the
sidemarker bulb socket from the parking/turn signal
assembly by turning them counterclockwise.
3. Set the parking/turn signal assembly to the side.
4. Remove the two bolts at the top of the radiator
support as shown.
5. Pull the headlamp assembly out.
6-34
7. Unplug the electrical connector.
8. Put the new bulb into the headlamp assembly and
turn it clockwise until it is tight.
9. Plug in the electrical connector.
10. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.
Install and tighten the two bolts.
11. Install the two turn signal bulb sockets and the
sidemarker bulb socket into the parking/turn signal
bulb assembly.
12. Install the parking/turn signal assembly. Install and
tighten the two screws.
6. Turn the bulb counterclockwise and remove it.
6-35
Parking/Turn Signal Lamp Removal
A. Turn Signal Bulbs
B. Sidemarker Bulb
1. Remove the two screws on the side of the
parking/turn signal bulb assembly.
2. Pull the parking/turn signal assembly toward the side
of the vehicle until the tabs are out of the grille.
3. To remove a bulb, turn the socket counterclockwise
to remove it from the assembly.
4. To insert a bulb, turn the socket clockwise.
5. Install the parking/turn signal lamp assembly by
sliding it from the side of the vehicle toward the
center until the tabs fully engage the grille.
6. Install and tighten the two screws.
6-36
Fog Lamps
3. Remove the connector from the bulb socket by
lifting the tabs on the sides of the connector.
1. The fog lamp bulb assembly is located under the
front bumper.
2. Remove the fog lamp bulb socket by turning
it counterclockwise.
4. Insert the new bulb socket into the connector until
the tabs lock into the connector.
5. Insert the fog lamp bulb socket into the fog lamp
housing and turn it clockwise one-quarter turn.
6-37
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL)
The individual bulbs in the CHMSL are not replaceable.
See your dealer for assistance.
4. Remove the screws from
the bulb retainer and
take the bulb retainer off
of the lamp assembly.
Rear Lamps
1. Open the tailgate or rear doors.
2. Remove the two black plastic plugs from the rear
lamp assembly access holes.
3. Remove the two rear
lamp assembly screws
inside the fender and
pull out the lamp
assembly. You may
want to use a magnetic
screwdriver when
removing the screws.
5. Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket.
6. Put in a new bulb and push it straight in until it
is tight.
7. Put back the bulb retainer.
8. Reinstall the rear lamp assembly and tighten the
screws. You may want to use a magnetic screwdriver
when installing the screws.
9. Close the tailgate or rear doors.
6-38
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Replacement blades come in different types and are
removed in different ways. For proper type and length,
see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the
Index. Here’s how to remove the Shephard’s Hook type.
To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly:
1. Lift the wiper arm and rotate the blade until it is
facing away from the windshield.
2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly
toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.
3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least
twice a year for wear and cracking. See “Wiper Blade
Check” in Section 7 of this manual under Part B
“Owner Checks and Services” for more information.
6-39
Tires
Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by
a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions
about your tire warranty and where to obtain service,
see your GMC Warranty booklet for details.
CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires
are dangerous.
D Overloading your tires can cause overheating
as a result of too much friction. You could
have an air-out and a serious accident.
See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
D Underinflated tires pose the same danger
as overloaded tires. The resulting accident
could cause serious injury. Check all tires
frequently to maintain the recommended
pressure. Tire pressure should be checked
when your tires are cold.
CAUTION: (Continued)
6-40
CAUTION: (Continued)
D Overinflated tires are more likely to be
D
cut, punctured or broken by a sudden
impact -- such as when you hit a pothole.
Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have
been damaged, replace them.
Inflation -- Tire Pressure
The Certification/Tire label, which is on the rear edge of
the driver’s door, or on the incomplete vehicle document
in the cab, shows the correct inflation pressures for your
tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has
been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more
than 1 mile (1.6 km).
You can operate some vehicles at reduced inflation
pressures only when you’ll be carrying reduced loads. On
those vehicles, the minimum cold inflation pressures for a
typical reduced load are printed on the Improved Ride
Tire Pressure label located on the driver’s door. Weigh the
vehicle to find the load on each tire and see the label for
the minimum cold inflation pressures for that load.
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or
overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires
don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can
get the following:
D Too much flexing
D Too much heat
D Tire overloading
D Bad wear
D Bad handling
D Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflation),
you can get the following:
D Unusual wear
D Bad handling
D Rough ride
D Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check
the tire pressure of the spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire
pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated
simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look
properly inflated even when they’re underinflated.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles
(10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual
wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check
wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or
wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and
“Wheel Replacement” later in this section for
more information.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform
wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the
most important. See “Scheduled Maintenance Services”
in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.
6-41
CAUTION:
When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct
rotation patterns shown here.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear inflation pressures as shown on the
Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts
are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in
the Index.
6-42
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which
it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose
after a time. The wheel could come off and cause
an accident. When you change a wheel, remove
any rust or dirt from places where the wheel
attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you
can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but
be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later,
if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
(See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)
When It’s Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of
tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
D You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
D You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
D The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or location
of the damage.
Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at
the Certification/Tire label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had
a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec)
number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires,
get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way
your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed
to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating,
traction, ride and other things during normal service on
your vehicle. If your tires have an all-season tread
design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS”
(for mud and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those not having
a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same
size, load range, speed rating and construction type
(bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.
D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep
enough to show cord or fabric.
6-43
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while
driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types
(radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may
not handle properly, and you could have a crash.
Using tires of different sizes may also cause
damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the
same size and type tires on all wheels.
CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the
wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after
many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could
fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial-ply
tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
6-44
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature performance.
(This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most
passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading
system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow
tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with
nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm),
or to some limited-production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger
cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these
grades, they must also conform to Federal safety
requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear
Temperature -- A, B, C
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified government test course. For
example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half
(1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire
graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends
upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and
may depart significantly from the norm due to variations
in driving habits, service practices and differences in
road characteristics and climate.
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of
heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under
controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the
material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life,
and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire
failure. The grade C corresponds to a level of
performance which all passenger car tires must meet
under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of
performance on the laboratory test wheel than the
minimum required by law.
Traction -- AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA,
A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability
to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specified government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor
traction performance. Warning: The traction grade
assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking
traction tests, and does not include acceleration,
cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is
established for a tire that is properly inflated and not
overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
6-45
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced
carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance.
Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are
not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or
your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment
may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle
vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels
may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel,
wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the
wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your
dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
6-46
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the
same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original
equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your
vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you
lose control. You could have a collision in which
you or others could be injured. Always use
the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts
for replacement.
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with
bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper
height, vehicle ground clearance and tire
clearance to the body and chassis.
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for
more information.
Used Replacement Wheels
CAUTION:
Tire Chains
NOTICE:
Don’t use tire chains. They can damage your
vehicle because there’s not enough clearance.
Use another type of traction device only if its
manufacturer recommends it for use on your
vehicle and tire size combination and road
conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s
instructions. To help avoid damage to your
vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the
device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t
spin your wheels.
If you do find traction devices that will fit, install
them on the rear tires.
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous.
You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s
been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an
accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new
GM original equipment wheel.
6-47
Appearance Care
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some
are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a
match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are
dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space.
When you use anything from a container to clean your
vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings
and instructions. And always open your doors or
windows when you’re cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
Gasoline
Benzene
Naphtha
Carbon Tetrachloride
Acetone
Paint Thinner
Turpentine
Lacquer Thinner
Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous -- some more than
others -- and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
6-48
Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can.
In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:
D
D
D
D
Alcohol
Laundry Soap
Bleach
Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose
dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces
with a clean, damp cloth.
Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet
Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi-Purpose Interior
Cleaner and Capture Non-Solvent Dry Spot and
Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will
clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get
GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Here are some cleaning tips:
D
D
D
D
Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
Clean up stains as soon as you can -- before they set.
Carefully scrape off any excess stain.
Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean
area often. A soft brush may be used if stains
are stubborn.
Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner
on Fabric
1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt.
2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.
Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.
3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on
the container label to form thick suds.
4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge.
Don’t saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.
5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge
to remove the suds.
6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth.
7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.
D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the
entire area immediately or it will set.
6-49
Special Fabric Cleaning Problems
Cleaning Vinyl
Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black),
egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and
blood can be removed as follows:
Use warm water and a clean cloth.
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the
soiled area with cool water.
D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain
2. If a stain remains, follow the multi-purpose interior
cleaner instructions described earlier.
D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.
You may have to do it more than once.
if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth
and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for
this product.
3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine,
treat the area with a water/baking soda solution:
1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml)
of lukewarm water.
Cleaning Leather
4. Let dry.
D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your
Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili
sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:
Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or
saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the
leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.
dealer for this product.
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain.
D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive
2. First, clean with cool water and allow to
dry completely.
D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned
3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for
Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner.
6-50
cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.
immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the
finish, it can harm the leather.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel
Care of Safety Belts
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces
of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or
waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield
and even make it difficult to see through the windshield
under certain conditions.
Keep belts clean and dry.
Cleaning Interior Plastic Components
Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or
sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.
CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may
severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not
be able to provide adequate protection. Clean safety
belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Cleaning Wood Panels
Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use
mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately
with a clean cloth.
Cleaning Speaker Covers
Vacuum around a speaker cover gently, so that the
speaker won’t be damaged. Clean spots with just water
and mild soap.
Cleaning Glass Surfaces
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or
a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal
tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may
cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear
window, since they may have to be scraped off later.
If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear
window, an electric defogger element may be damaged.
Any temporary license should not be attached across the
defogger grid.
6-51
Cleaning the Outside of the
Windshield, Backglass and
Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the
windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when
running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade
or windshield.
Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield
Cleaner, Bon AmiR Powder (non-scratching glass
cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The
windshield is clean if beads do not form when you
rinse it with water.
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper
blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by
wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength
windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade
with water.
Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary;
replace blades that look worn.
6-52
Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone
grease with a clean cloth at least every six months.
During very cold, damp weather more frequent
application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids
and Lubricants” in the Index.)
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth
of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to
keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or
cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or
chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well,
removing all soap residue completely. You can get
GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based,
or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents
should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on
the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a
soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid
surface scratches and water spotting.
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter
your vehicle.
NOTICE:
Machine compounding or aggressive polishing
on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the
finish or leave swirl marks.
Finish Care
Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other
salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird
droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can
damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted
surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If
necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that are marked
safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by
hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint
finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products
from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials”
in the Index.)
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather
and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period
of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking
new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered
whenever possible.
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car
washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses.
Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”
Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish.
The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the
colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that
are non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat
paint finish.
6-53
Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts
Cleaning Tires
Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep
their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually
needed. However, you may use chrome polish on
chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary.
To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.
Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging
protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or
caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed
to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels
Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with
mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After
rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax
may then be applied.
The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted
surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps,
chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners
with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because
you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish
on any wheels other than chrome-plated wheels.
Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash
that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These
brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
6-54
NOTICE:
When applying a tire dressing always take care to
wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted
surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle.
Petroleum-based products may damage the
paint finish and tires.
Sheet Metal Damage
If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal
repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop
applies anti-corrosion material to the parts repaired or
replaced to restore corrosion protection.
Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide
the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.
Finish Damage
Chemical Paint Spotting
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish
should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode
quickly and may develop into a major repair expense.
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can
create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall
upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This
damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet-shaped
discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched
into the paint surface.
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up
materials available from your dealer or other service
outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected
in your dealer’s body and paint shop.
Underbody Maintenance
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust
control can collect on the underbody. If these are not
removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on
the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor
pan and exhaust system even though they have
corrosion protection.
Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will
repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new
vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within
12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase,
whichever occurs first.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the
underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud
and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas
of the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do
this for you.
6-55
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
PART NUMBER
994954
1050172
1050173
1050174
1050214
1050427
SIZE
23 in. x 25 in.
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
32 oz. (0.946 L)
23 oz. (0.680 L)
1052918**
8 oz. (0.237 L)
DESCRIPTION
Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated
Tar and Road Oil Remover
Chrome Cleaner and Polish
White Sidewall Tire Cleaner
Vinyl Cleaner
Glass Cleaner
t Protectant
Armor All
Multi-Purpose Interior
Cleaner
1052929
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Wheel Cleaner
1052930
8 oz. (0.237 L)
Capture Dry Spot Remover
12345721
2.5 sq. ft.
Synthetic Chamois
12345725
12 oz. (0.354 L)
Silicone Tire Shine
12377964*
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Finish Enhancer
12377966*
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Cleaner Wax
12377984*
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Surface Cleaner
See your General Motors Parts Department for these products.
See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
1052925
6-56
16 oz. (0.473 L)
USAGE
Exterior polishing cloth
Removes tar, road oil and asphalt
Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass
Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls
Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops
Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints
Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglas , plastic,
rubber and vinyl
Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels
and floor mats
Spray on and rinse with water
Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric
Shines vehicle without scratching
Spray on tire shine
Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants
Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish
Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks
* For exterior use only.
** Not recommended for use on instrument panels.
t
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Service Parts Identification Label
You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box.
It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this
label is:
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears
on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel,
on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through
the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also
appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts
labels and the certificates of title and registration.
D
D
D
D
your VIN,
the model designation,
paint information and
a list of all production options and
special equipment.
Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.
Engine Identification
The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This
code will help you identify your engine, specifications
and replacement parts.
6-57
Electrical System
Headlamps
Add-On Electrical Equipment
The headlamp wiring is protected by a circuit breaker in
the lamp switch. An electrical overload will cause the
lamps to flicker on and off, or in some cases to remain
off. If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked
right away.
NOTICE:
Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle
unless you check with your dealer first. Some
electrical equipment can damage your vehicle
and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your
warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment
can keep other components from working as
they should.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to
add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing
Your Air Bag-Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
Windshield Wipers
The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit
breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to
heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor
cools. Although the circuit is protected from electrical
overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc., may cause
wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy snow
from the windshield before using the windshield wipers.
If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and
not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.
Power Windows and Other Power Options
Circuit breakers in the fuse panel protect the power
windows and other power accessories. When the current
load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes.
This protects the circuit until the current load returns to
normal or the problem is fixed.
6-58
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from
short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers
and fusible thermal links in the wiring itself. This
greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical
problems. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index
for more information.
Instrument Panel Fuse Block
The fuse block access door
is located on the driver’s
side edge of the instrument
panel. Pull off the cover to
access the fuse block.
Look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the
band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you
replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size
and rating.
If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a
spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same
amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that
you can get along without -- like the radio or cigarette
lighter -- and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage.
Replace it as soon as you can.
You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor. The fuse
extractor is mounted to the fuse block access door.
To remove fuses, if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold
the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger
and pull straight out.
You may have spare fuses attached to the inside of
the fuse block access door. These can be used to
replace a bad fuse. However, make sure that it is the
correct amperage.
6-59
Fuse/Circuit
Usage
Breaker
1
Stop/TCC Switch, Buzzer, CHMSL,
Hazard Lamps, Stoplamps
2
Transfer Case
3
Courtesy Lamps, Cargo Lamp, Glove
Box Lamp, Dome/Reading Lamps,
Vanity Mirrors, Power Mirrors
6-60
Fuse/Circuit
Usage
Breaker
4
Instrument Cluster, DRL Relay, Lamp
Switch, Keyless Entry, Low Coolant
Module, Illuminated Entry Module
5
Rear Comfort Controls
6
Cruise Control
7
Auxiliary Power Outlet
8
Crank
9
License Lamp, Parking Lamps,
Taillamps, Tailgate Lamps, Front
Sidemarkers, Fog Lamp Relay, Door
Switch Illumination, Fender Lamps,
Headlamp Switch Illumination
10
Air Bag System
11
Wiper Motor, Washer Pump
12
A/C, A/C Blower, High Blower Relay
13
Power Amp, Rear Liftglass, Cigarette
Lighter, Door Lock Relay, Power
Lumbar Seat
14
4WD Indicator, Cluster, Front and Rear
Comfort Controls, Instrument Switches,
Radio Illumination, Chime Module
Fuse/Circuit
Usage
Breaker
15
DRL Relay, Fog Lamp Relay
16
Front and Rear Turn Signals,
Back-Up Lamps
17
Radio (Ignition)
18
4WAL/VCM, ABS, Cruise Control
19
Radio (Battery)
20
PRNDL, Automatic Transmission,
Speedometer, Check Gages,
Warning Lights
21
Security/Steering
22
Auxiliary Power, Headlamp Delay
23
Rear Wiper, Rear Washer Pump
24
Front Axle, 4WD Indicator Lamp,
TP2 Relay
A
Power Door Lock, Six-Way Power
Seat, Keyless Entry Module
B
Power Windows
Underhood Fuse/Relay Center
The underhood fuse/relay center is located in the rear of
the engine compartment near the brake fluid reservoir.
Move the retainer clips for the cover to access the
fuse block.
You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor. The fuse
extractor is mounted to the interior fuse block. To
remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the
end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger
and pull straight out.
6-61
Name
HORN
AUX FAN
ECM-1
HTD ST-FR
A/C
HTD MIR
ENG-1
HTD ST-RR
LIGHTING
Name
ECM-B
RR DEFOG
IGN-E
FUEL SOL
GLOW PLUG
6-62
Circuits Protected
Fuel Pump, PCM/VCM
Rear Window Defogger
Auxiliary Fan Relay Coil, A/C
Compressor Relay, Hot Fuel Module
Not Used
Not Used
BATT
IGN-A
IGN-B
ABS
BLOWER
STOP/HAZ
HEATED
SEATS
Circuits Protected
Horn, Underhood Lamp
Auxiliary Fan
Injectors, PCM/VCM
Heated Front Seats
Air Conditioning
Heated Outside Mirrors
Ignition Switch, EGR, Canister
Purge, EVRV Idle Coast Solenoid,
Heated O2
Heated Rear Seats
Headlamp and Panel Dimmer
Switch, Fog and Courtesy Fuses
Battery, Fuse Block Busbar
Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch
Anti-Lock Brake Module
Hi Blower and Rear Blower Relays
Stoplamps
Heated Seats
Replacement Bulbs
TRADE NO.
POWER RATING
AT 12.8V, WATTS
QTY
9006 HB4
9005 HB3
55
65
2
2
LAMP OR BULB
TRADE NO.
QTY
EXTERIOR
Front Marker Lamp
194
2
2357NA
4
Rear Parking Lamp
3057
2
Rear Stop and Turn Lamp
3057
2
Back-up Lamp
3156
2
License Plate Lamp
194
2
Underhood Lamp
93
1
Fog Lamp
894
2
LAMP OR BULB
HEADLAMPS
Low Beam
High Beam
Front Parking and Turn Lamp
Continued
6-63
Replacement Bulbs (Continued)
LAMP OR BULB
TRADE NO.
QTY
Dome Lamps
211-2
2
Reading Lamps
211-2
4
Roof Console Lamps*
168
2
Door Courtesy Lamp
194
2
Instrument Panel Compartment Lamp
194
1
Ashtray Lamp
194
1
Sunshade Vanity Mirror
74
4
INTERIOR
For service information on other bulbs, contact your dealer’s service department.
6-64
Capacities and Specifications
Please refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for more information.
Engine Identification
Engine
“VORTEC” 5700
Type
V8
RPO Code
L31
VIN Code
R
Fuel System
SFI*
*Sequential Fuel Injection
Wheels and Tires
MODEL
DESCRIPTION
TORQUE
K 1500
6 bolts (14 mm)
140 lb-ft (190 N·m)
Tire Pressure
See the Certification/Tire label on the rear edge of the driver’s
door or the incomplete vehicle document in the cab.
6-65
Cooling System Capacity (Approximate)
After refill, the level must be rechecked. See “Cooling System” in the Index.
ENGINE
“VORTEC” 5700 V8
VIN
R
QTY
17.5 Quarts (16.5 L)
Crankcase Capacity (Approximate)
After refill, the level must be rechecked. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.
ENGINE
“VORTEC” 5700 V8
VIN
QUANTITY WITH
FILTER[
R
5.0 Quarts (4.8 L)
[Oil filter should be changed at every oil change.
Fuel Tank Capacity (Approximate)
Quantity
6-66
30 Gallons (113 L)
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing,
and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was
built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GM truck dealer.
Engine
VIN
Oil Filter
Air Cleaner Filter
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Gap
Fuel Filter
PCV Valve
Wiper Blades (Front)
Wiper Blade Type (Front)
Wiper Blade Length (Front)
Wiper Blade (Rear)
Wiper Blade Type (Rear)
Wiper Blade Length (Rear)
“VORTEC” 5700 V8
R
AC Type PF1218[
AC Type A1300C[[
AC Type 41-932
0.060 inches (1.52 mm)
AC Type GF626
AC Type CV769
GM Part No. 22154886
Trico
18 inches (45.0 cm)
GM Part No. 22154396
Trico
14 inches (35.5 cm)
[Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles -- use a PF52 oil filter.
[[A1301C high-capacity air cleaner filter.
6-67
✍
6-68
NOTES
Section 7 Maintenance Schedule
This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety,
dependability and emission control performance.
7-2
7-4
7-5
7-5
7-6
7-6
Introduction
Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services
Short Trip/City Definition
Short Trip/City Intervals
Long Trip/Highway Definition
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
7-7
7-27
7-37
7-42
7-44
7-46
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
Part B: Owner Checks and Services
Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections
Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
Part E: Maintenance Record
7-
7-1
Introduction
Your Vehicle and the Environment
Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your
vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the
environment. All recommended maintenance procedures
are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even
affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid
levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level
of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our
environment, and to keep your vehicle in good
condition, please maintain your vehicle properly.
Maintenance Requirements
Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan
supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your
Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet, or your dealer
for details.
7-2
Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections and
recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this
manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good
working condition. Any damage caused by failure to
follow recommended maintenance may not be covered
by warranty.
How This Section is Organized
This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts:
“Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” shows
what to have done and how often. Some of these
services can be complex, so unless you are technically
qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should
let your dealer’s service department or another qualified
service center do these jobs.
CAUTION:
Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can
be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can
be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance
work only if you have the required know-how
and the proper tools and equipment for the job.
If you have any doubt, have a qualified
technician do the work.
“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what
should be checked and when. It also explains what you
can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good
condition.
“Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections”
explains important inspections that your dealer’s
service department or another qualified service center
should perform.
“Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists
some recommended products necessary to help keep
your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or
their equivalents, should be used whether you do the
work yourself or have it done.
“Part E: Maintenance Record” is a place for
you to record and keep track of the maintenance
performed on your vehicle. Keep your maintenance
receipts. They may be needed to qualify your vehicle
for warranty repairs.
If you want to get the service information, see “Service
and Owner Publications” in the Index.
7-3
Part A: Scheduled
Maintenance Services
Using Your Maintenance Schedule
We at General Motors want to help you keep your
vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know
exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short
distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive
long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather.
You may use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or
you may drive it to work, to do errands or in many
other ways.
Because of all the different ways people use their
vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may need more
frequent checks and replacements. So please read the
following and note how you drive. If you have any
questions on how to keep your vehicle in good
condition, see your dealer.
This part tells you the maintenance services you should
have done and when you should schedule them. If you
go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know
that GM-trained and supported service people will
perform the work using genuine GM parts.
7-4
The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in Part D.
Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses these. All
parts should be replaced and all necessary repairs done
before you or anyone else drives the vehicle.
These schedules are for vehicles that:
D carry passengers and cargo within recommended
limits. You will find these limits on your vehicle’s
Certification/Tire label. See “Loading Your Vehicle”
in the Index.
D are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal
driving limits.
D are driven off-road in the recommended manner. See
“Off-Road Driving With Your Four-Wheel-Drive
Vehicle” in the Index.
D use the recommended fuel. See “Fuel” in the Index.
Selecting the Right Schedule
First you’ll need to decide which of the two schedules is
right for your vehicle. Here’s how to decide which
schedule to follow:
Scheduled Maintenance
Short Trip/City Definition
Follow the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance if
any one of these conditions is true for your vehicle:
D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside
temperatures are below freezing.
D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic).
D You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or
off-road frequently.
D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of
your vehicle.
D If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
One of the reasons you should follow this schedule if you
operate your vehicle under any of these conditions is that
these conditions cause engine oil to break down sooner.
Short Trip/City Intervals
Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first). Chassis
Lubrication (or 3 months, whichever occurs first). Drive
Axle Service (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).
Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Tire Rotation.
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Fuel Filter Replacement.
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service (severe conditions only).
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory
Drive Belt Inspection. Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
Inspection. Evaporative Control System Inspection.
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions). Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance
on the following pages.
7-5
Scheduled Maintenance
Long Trip/Highway Definition
Follow this scheduled maintenance only if none of the
conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance are true. Do not use this schedule if the
vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area
or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City
schedule for these conditions.
Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under
highway conditions causes engine oil to break
down slower.
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
Chassis Lubrication (or every 12 months, whichever
occurs first). Drive Axle Service. Tire Rotation.
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Fuel Filter Replacement.
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service (severe conditions only).
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine
Accessory Drive Belt Inspection. Exhaust Gas
Recirculation System Inspection. Evaporative
Control System Inspection.
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Spark Plug Wire
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions). Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance
on the following pages.
7-6
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals. The services shown
at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be performed at
the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km).
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic
Maintenance Inspections” following.
Footnotes
[ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to
the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the front suspension, kingpin bushings,
steering linkage, transmission shift linkage, transfer
case shift linkage, parking brake cable guides, front axle
propshaft spline and brake pedal springs. Ball joints and
kingpin bushings should not be lubricated unless their
temperature is 10_F (-12_C) or higher, or they could
be damaged.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire
rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of
this schedule.
7-7
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
3,000 Miles (5 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
6,000 Miles (10 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-8
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
9,000 Miles (15 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
12,000 Miles (20 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-9
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
18,000 Miles (30 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-10
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
21,000 Miles (35 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
24,000 Miles (40 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-11
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
27,000 Miles (45 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-12
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
33,000 Miles (55 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
36,000 Miles (60 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
7-13
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
39,000 Miles (65 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
42,000 Miles (70 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-14
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
48,000 Miles (80 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-15
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven
under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid
and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
51,000 Miles (85 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
7-16
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
54,000 Miles (90 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
57,000 Miles (95 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
7-17
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Inspect engine accessory drive belt. An Emission Control Service.
j Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)
j Conduct Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system inspection as described in
the service manual. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote[.)
j Conduct evaporative control system inspection. Check all fuel and vapor lines
and hoses for proper hook-up, routing and condition. Check that the purge
valve works properly (if equipped). Replace as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-18
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
63,000 Miles (105 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
66,000 Miles (110 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-19
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
69,000 Miles (115 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
72,000 Miles (120 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-20
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
78,000 Miles (130 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-21
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
81,000 Miles (135 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
84,000 Miles (140 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-22
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
87,000 Miles (145 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Replace fuel filter. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-23
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
93,000 Miles (155 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
96,000 Miles (160 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-24
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
99,000 Miles (165 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
j Inspect spark plug wires. An Emission Control Service.
j Replace spark plugs. An Emission Control Service.
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven
under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
(Continued)
7-25
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
100,000 Miles (166 000 km) (Continued)
If you haven’t used your vehicle under severe service conditions listed
previously and, therefore, haven’t changed your automatic transmission fluid,
change both the fluid and filter.
Inspect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. An Emission Control
Service.
j
j
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last service,
whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use.
Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test
cooling system and pressure cap. An Emission Control Service.
7-26
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals. The services shown
at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be performed at
the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km).
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic
Maintenance Inspections” following.
Footnotes
[ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to
the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the front suspension, kingpin bushings,
steering linkage, transmission shift linkage, transfer
case shift linkage, parking brake cable guides, front axle
propshaft spline and brake pedal springs. Ball joints and
kingpin bushings should not be lubricated unless their
temperature is 10_F (-12_C) or higher, or they could
be damaged.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire
rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of
this schedule.
7-27
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
7,500 Miles (12 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-28
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
22,500 Miles (37 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
j
j
j
j
An Emission Control Service.
Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote[.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-29
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
37,500 Miles (62 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-30
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven
under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid
and filter at 100,000 miles (166 000 km).
52,500 Miles (87 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-31
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
j Inspect engine accessory drive belt.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)
j Inspect Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system as described in
the service manual.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)
j Inspect Evaporative Control System. Check all fuel and vapor lines and hoses
for proper hook-up, routing and condition. Check that the purge valve works
properly, if equipped. Replace as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)
7-32
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
67,500 Miles (112 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-33
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
82,500 Miles (137 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote [.)
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-34
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
97,500 Miles (162 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear/front axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
j Inspect spark plug wires.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service.
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven
under one or more of these conditions:
– In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches
90_F (32_C) or higher.
– In hilly or mountainous terrain.
– When doing frequent trailer towing.
– Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
(Continued)
7-35
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
100,000 Miles (166 000 km) (Continued)
If you haven’t used your vehicle under severe service conditions listed
previously and, therefore, haven’t changed your automatic transmission fluid,
change both the fluid and filter.
Inspect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
An Emission Control Service.
j
j
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last service,
whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use.
Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck. Pressure test
the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service.
7-36
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Part B: Owner Checks and Services
Windshield Washer Fluid Level Check
Listed in this part are owner checks and services which
should be performed at the intervals specified to help
ensure the safety, dependability and emission control
performance of your vehicle.
Check the windshield washer fluid level in the
windshield washer tank and add the proper fluid if
necessary. See “Windshield Washer Fluid” in the Index
for further details.
Be sure any necessary repairs are completed at once.
Whenever any fluids or lubricants are added to your
vehicle, make sure they are the proper ones, as shown
in Part D.
At Least Once a Month
Tire Inflation Check
At Each Fuel Fill
Make sure tires are inflated to the correct pressures.
Don’t forget to check your spare tire. See “Tires” in the
Index for further details.
It is important for you or a service station attendant to
perform these underhood checks at each fuel fill.
Cassette Deck Service
Engine Oil Level Check
Check the engine oil level and add the proper oil if
necessary. See “Engine Oil” in the Index for
further details.
Clean cassette deck. Cleaning should be done every
50 hours of tape play. See “Audio Systems” in the Index
for further details.
Engine Coolant Level Check
Check the engine coolant level and add DEX-COOLR
coolant mixture if necessary. See “Engine Coolant” in
the Index for further details.
7-37
At Least Twice a Year
Restraint System Check
Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your
belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are
working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged
safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might
keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it
repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced.
Also look for any opened or broken air bag coverings,
and have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system
does not need regular maintenance.)
Engine Air Cleaner Filter Restriction
Indicator Check
Your vehicle has an indicator located on the air cleaner
in the engine compartment that lets you know when the
air cleaner filter is dirty and needs to be changed. Check
indicator at least twice a year or when your oil is
changed, whichever occurs first. See “Air Cleaner” in
the Index for more information. Inspect your air cleaner
filter restriction indicator more often if the vehicle is
used in dusty areas or under off road conditions.
Weatherstrip Lubrication
Inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade
inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or
miss areas of the windshield. Also see “Wiper Blades,
Cleaning” in the Index.
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold,
damp weather more frequent application may be
required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants”
in the Index.)
Spare Tire Check
Automatic Transmission Check
At least twice a year, after the monthly inflation check of
the spare tire determines that the spare is inflated to the
correct tire inflation pressure, make sure that the spare tire
is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn
the tire. If it moves, use to tighten the cable. See “Storing
the Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index.
Check the transmission fluid level; add if needed. See
“Automatic Transmission Fluid” in the Index. A fluid
loss may indicate a problem. Check the system and
repair if needed.
Wiper Blade Check
7-38
At Least Once a Year
Starter Switch Check
Key Lock Cylinders Service
Lubricate the key lock cylinders with the lubricant
specified in Part D.
Body Lubrication Service
Lubricate all body hood and body door hinges, body
door hinge pins, hood latch assembly, secondary latch,
pivots, spring anchor, and release pawl, rear
compartment hinges, tailgate hinge, tailgate linkage,
outer tailgate handle pivot points, latches, fuel door, fuel
door hinge, locks and folding seat hardware. Part D tells
you what to use. More frequent lubrication may be
required when exposed to a corrosive environment.
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, the vehicle could
move suddenly. If it does, you or others could be
injured. Follow the steps below.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room
around the vehicle.
2. Firmly apply both the parking brake (see “Parking
Brake” in the Index if necessary) and the
regular brake.
NOTE: Do not use the accelerator pedal, and be
ready to turn off the engine immediately if it starts.
3. Try to start the engine in each gear. The starter
should work only in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N). If
the starter works in any other position, your vehicle
needs service.
7-39
Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control
System Check
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, the vehicle could
move suddenly. If it does, you or others could be
injured. Follow the steps below.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room
around the vehicle. It should be parked on a
level surface.
2. Firmly apply the parking brake (see “Parking Brake”
in the Index if necessary).
NOTE: Be ready to apply the regular brake
immediately if the vehicle begins to move.
7-40
3. With the engine off, turn the key to the RUN
position, but don’t start the engine. Without applying
the regular brake, try to move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) with normal effort. If the shift lever
moves out of PARK (P), your vehicle needs service.
Ignition Transmission Lock Check
While parked, and with the parking brake set, try to turn
the ignition key to LOCK in each shift lever position.
D The key should turn to LOCK only when the shift
lever is in PARK (P).
D The key should come out only in LOCK.
Parking Brake and Automatic Transmission
PARK (P) Mechanism Check
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, your vehicle
could begin to move. You or others could be
injured and property could be damaged. Make
sure there is room in front of your vehicle in case
it begins to roll. Be ready to apply the regular
brake at once should the vehicle begin to move.
Park on a fairly steep hill, with the vehicle facing
downhill. Keeping your foot on the regular brake, set the
parking brake.
D To check the parking brake’s holding ability:
With the engine running and transmission in
NEUTRAL (N), slowly remove foot pressure from
the regular brake pedal. Do this until the vehicle is
held by the parking brake only.
D To check the PARK (P) mechanism’s holding
ability: With the engine running, shift to PARK (P).
Then release the parking brake followed by the
regular brake.
Underbody Flushing Service
At least every spring, use plain water to flush any
corrosive materials from the underbody. Take care to
clean thoroughly any areas where mud and other debris
can collect.
7-41
Part C: Periodic
Maintenance Inspections
Listed in this part are inspections and services which
should be performed at least twice a year (for instance,
each spring and fall). You should let your dealer’s
service department or other qualified service center do
these jobs. Make sure any necessary repairs are
completed at once.
Proper procedures to perform these services may be
found in a service manual. See “Service and Owner
Publications” in the Index.
Steering and Suspension Inspection
Inspect the front and rear suspension and steering
system for damaged, loose or missing parts, signs of
wear or lack of lubrication. Inspect the power steering
lines and hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks,
cracks, chafing, etc.
7-42
Exhaust System Inspection
Inspect the complete exhaust system. Inspect the body
near the exhaust system. Look for broken, damaged,
missing or out-of-position parts as well as open seams,
holes, loose connections or other conditions which could
cause a heat build-up in the floor pan or could let
exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See “Engine Exhaust”
in the Index.
Engine Cooling System Inspection
Inspect the hoses and have them replaced if they are
cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes,
fittings and clamps; replace as needed. Clean the outside
of the radiator and air conditioning condenser. To help
ensure proper operation, a pressure test of the cooling
system and pressure cap is recommended at least once
a year.
Throttle System Inspection
Brake System Inspection
Inspect the throttle system for interference or binding,
and for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts as
needed. Replace any components that have high effort
or excessive wear. Do not lubricate accelerator and
cruise control cables.
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and
hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks,
chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors
for surface condition. Also inspect drum brake linings
for wear and cracks. Inspect other brake parts, including
drums, wheel cylinders, calipers, parking brake, etc.
Check parking brake adjustment. You may need to have
your brakes inspected more often if your driving habits
or conditions result in frequent braking.
Drive Axle Service
Check rear/front axle fluid level and add as needed.
Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
Transfer Case (Four-Wheel Drive)
Inspection
Every 12 months or at oil change intervals, check front
axle and transfer case and add lubricant when necessary.
Check vent hose at transfer case for kinks and proper
installation. More frequent lubrication may be required
on off-road use.
7-43
Part D: Recommended Fluids
and Lubricants
NOTE: Fluids and lubricants identified below by name,
part number or specification may be obtained from
your dealer.
USAGE
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Engine Oil
Engine Oil with the American
Petroleum Institute Certified For
Gasoline Engines starburst symbol
of the proper viscosity. To
determine the preferred viscosity
for your vehicle’s engine, see
“Engine Oil” in the Index.
Engine Coolant
Hydraulic
Brake System
7-44
50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable
water and use only GM
GoodwrenchR DEX-COOLR or
HavolineR DEX-COOLR
Coolant. See “Engine Coolant” in
the Index.
Delco Supreme 11R Brake Fluid
(GM Part No. 12377967 or
equivalent DOT-3 Brake Fluid).
USAGE
Windshield
Washer Solvent
FLUID/LUBRICANT
GM OptikleenR Washer Solvent
(GM Part No. 1051515)
or equivalent.
Parking Brake
Cable Guides
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or
lubricant meeting requirements
of NLGI # 2, Category LB
or GC-LB.
Power
Steering System
GM Power Steering Fluid
(GM Part No. 1052884 - 1 pint,
1050017 - 1 quart, or equivalent).
Automatic
Transmission
DEXRONR-III Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
Key Lock
Cylinders
Multi-Purpose Lubricant,
SuperlubeR (GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Chassis
Lubrication
Chassis Lubricant (GM
Part No. 12377985 or equivalent)
or lubricant meeting requirements
of NLGI # 2, Category LB
or GC-LB.
USAGE
FLUID/LUBRICANT
USAGE
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Front Axle
SAE 80W-90 Axle Lubricant (GM
Part No. 1052271 or equivalent).
Hood and
Door Hinges
Rear Axle
SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle
Lubricant (GM Part No. 12378261)
or equivalent meeting GM
Specification 9986115.
Multi-Purpose Lubricant,
SuperlubeR (GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Body Door
Hinge Pins,
Tailgate Hinge
and Linkage,
Folding Seat and
Fuel Door Hinge
Multi-Purpose Lubricant,
SuperlubeR (GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Outer
Tailgate Handle
Pivot Points
Multi-Purpose Lubricant,
SuperlubeR (GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Weatherstrip
Conditioning
Dielectric Silicone Grease (GM
Part No. 12345579 or equivalent).
Weatherstrip
Squeaks
Synthetic Grease with Teflon,
SuperlubeR (GM Part
No. 12371287 or equivalent).
Automatic
Transfer Case
Automatic Transfer Case Fluid
(GM Part No. 12378396).
Front Axle
Propshaft Spline
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or
lubricant meeting requirements
of NLGI # 2, Category LB
or GC-LB.
Hood Latch
Assembly,
Secondary Latch,
Pivots, Spring
Anchor and
Release Pawl
LubriplateR Lubricant Aerosol
(GM Part No. 12346293 or
equivalent) or lubricant meeting
requirements of NLGI # 2,
Category LB or GC-LB.
7-45
Part E: Maintenance Record
After the scheduled services are performed, record the
date, odometer reading and who performed the service
in the boxes provided after the maintenance interval.
Any additional information from “Owner Checks and
Services” or “Periodic Maintenance” can be added on
the following record pages. Also, you should retain all
maintenance receipts. Your owner information portfolio
is a convenient place to store them.
Maintenance Record
DATE
7-46
ODOMETER
READING
SERVICED BY
MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
Maintenance Record
DATE
ODOMETER
READING
SERVICED BY
MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
7-47
Maintenance Record
DATE
7-48
ODOMETER
READING
SERVICED BY
MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
Section 8 Customer Assistance Information
Here you will find out how to contact GMC if you need assistance. This section also tells you how to obtain service
publications and how to report any safety defects.
8-2
8-4
8-4
8-5
8-6
8-7
8-8
Customer Satisfaction Procedure
Customer Assistance for Text Telephone
(TTY) Users
Customer Assistance Offices
GM Mobility Program for Persons
with Disabilities
Roadside Assistance
Canadian Roadside Assistance
Courtesy Transportation
8-9
8-10
8-10
8-11
8-11
Warranty Information
Reporting Safety Defects to the United
States Government
Reporting Safety Defects to the
Canadian Government
Reporting Safety Defects to General Motors
Ordering Service and Owner Publications
in Canada
8-
8-1
Customer Satisfaction Procedure
Your satisfaction and goodwill are important to your
dealer and to GMC. Normally, any concerns with the
sales transaction or the operation of your vehicle will be
resolved by your dealer’s sales or service departments.
Sometimes, however, despite the best intentions of all
concerned, misunderstandings can occur. If your
concern has not been resolved to your satisfaction, the
following steps should be taken:
STEP ONE -- Discuss your concern with a member of
dealership management. Normally, concerns can be
quickly resolved at that level. If the matter has already
been reviewed with the sales, service or parts manager,
contact the owner of the dealership or the
general manager.
8-2
STEP TWO -- If after contacting a member of
dealership management, it appears your concern cannot be
resolved by the dealership without further help, contact
the GMC Consumer Relations Manager by calling
1-800-GMC-8782 (1-800-462-8782, Customer Assistance
prompt). In Canada, contact GM of Canada Customer
Communication Centre in Oshawa by calling
1-800-263-3777 (English) or 1-800-263-7854 (French).
We encourage you to call the toll-free number in order
to give your inquiry prompt attention. Please have the
following information available to give the Customer
Assistance Representative:
D Vehicle Identification Number (This is available
from the vehicle registration or title, or the plate
at the top left of the instrument panel and visible
through the windshield.)
When contacting GMC, please remember that your
concern will likely be resolved at a dealer’s facility. That
is why we suggest you follow Step One first if you have
a concern.
STEP THREE -- Both General Motors and your dealer
are committed to making sure you are completely
satisfied with your new vehicle. However, if you
continue to remain unsatisfied after following the
procedure outlined in Steps One and Two, file with the
GM/BBB Auto Line Program to enforce any additional
rights you may have. Canadian owners refer to your
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information booklet for
information on the Canadian Motor Vehicle Arbitration
Plan (CAMVAP).
D Dealership name and location
D Vehicle delivery date and present mileage
8-3
The BBB Auto Line Program is an out of court program
administered by the Council of Better Business Bureaus to
settle automotive disputes regarding vehicle repairs or the
interpretation of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Although you are required to resort to this informal dispute
resolution program prior to filing any court action, use of
the program is free of charge and your case will generally
be heard within 40 days. If you do not agree with the
decision given in your case, you may reject it and proceed
with any other venue for relief available to you.
You may contact the BBB using the toll-free telephone
number or write them at the following address:
BBB Auto Line
Council of Better Business Bureaus, Inc.
4200 Wilson Boulevard
Suite 800
Arlington, VA 22203-1804
Telephone: 1-800-955-5100
This program is available in all 50 states and the District
of Columbia. Eligibility is limited by vehicle age,
mileage and other factors. General Motors reserves the
right to change eligibility limitations and/or discontinue
its participation in this program.
8-4
Customer Assistance for Text
Telephone (TTY) Users
To assist customers who are deaf, hard of hearing,
or speech-impaired and who use Text Telephones
(TTYs), GMC has TTY equipment available
at its Customer Assistance Center. Any TTY
user can communicate with GMC by dialing:
1-800-GMC-8583 (462-8583). (TTY users in
Canada can dial 1-800-263-3830.)
Customer Assistance Offices
GMC encourages customers to call the toll-free number
for assistance. If a U.S. customer wishes to write to GMC,
the letter should be addressed to GMC’s Customer
Assistance Center.
United States
Pontiac-GMC Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 436008
Pontiac, MI 48343-6008
1-800-GMC-8782 (462-8782)
1-800-GMC-8583 (462-8583) (For Text
Telephone devices (TTYs))
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-GMC-8782 (462-8782)
Canada
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
1-800-263-3777 (English)
1-800-263-7854 (French)
1-800-263-3830 (For Text Telephone devices (TTYs))
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-268-6800
All Overseas Locations
GMODC - Customer Communication Centre
169-007
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Telephone: 905-644-4112
Fax:
905-644-4866
Caribbean Numbers
1-800-496-9992 (English) Puerto Rico
1-800-496-9993 (Spanish) Puerto Rico
1-800-751-4135 (English) Dominican Republic
1-800-751-4136 (Spanish) Dominican Republic
1-800-496-9994 U.S. Virgin Islands
1-800-389-0009 Bahamas
1-800-534-0122 Bermuda, Barbados, Antigua & B.V.I.
If toll free service is not available in the Caribbean,
call Puerto Rico 1-787-763-1315.
GM Mobility Program for Persons
with Disabilities
This program, available to
qualified applicants, can
reimburse you up to $1,000
toward aftermarket driver or
passenger adaptive
equipment you may require
for your vehicle (hand
controls, wheelchair/scooter
lifts, etc.).
This program can also provide you with free resource
information, such as area driver assessment centers and
mobility equipment installers. The program is available
for a limited period of time from the date of vehicle
purchase/lease. See your dealer for more details or call
the GM Mobility Assistance Center at 1-800-323-9935.
Text telephone (TTY) users, call 1-800-833-9935.
GM of Canada also has a Mobility Program. Call
1-800-GM-DRIVE (463-7483) for details. When
calling from outside Canada, please dial 1-905-644-3063.
All TTY users call 1-800-263-3830.
8-5
Roadside Assistance
Fuel Delivery: Delivery of enough fuel for the customer
to get to the nearest service station (up to $4.00) will
be covered.
Jump Start: No-start situations which require a battery
jump start will be covered at no charge.
Lock Out: Replacement keys or locksmith service will
be covered at no charge if you are unable to gain entry
into your vehicle. Delivery of the replacement key will
be covered at no charge within 10 miles (16 km).
Emergency Towing Service: Towing to the nearest
GMC dealer for warranty related disablements will
be covered.
GMC’s Roadside Assistance provides stranded owners
with over-the-phone roadside repairs, location of the
nearest GMC dealer or the following special services:
Flat Tire Change: Installation of spare tire will be
covered at no charge (customer is responsible for repair
or replacement of tire).
8-6
Deluxe Trip Routing: Custom-made, computerized
highlighted maps using the most direct or scenic route
are provided free of charge. Maps include points of
interest and a list of GMC dealers along the route. Also
included is a list of hotels along the route that are
discounted through affiliation with “Quest
International.” Trip Routing is available through
Roadside Assistance by calling 1-800-GMC-8782
(462-8782). Please be prepared to provide your Vehicle
Identification Number (VIN). Allow five working days
for fulfillment.
Trip Interruption Assistance: GMC will reimburse any
reasonable trip interruption expenses (up to $500.00)
when directly associated with warranty disablement. Trip
Interruption service covers expenses such as meals and
overnight lodging if vehicle disablement occurs at least
150 miles (240 km) from your home or rental property.
Please Note: you will be required to obtain prior
approval from GMC Roadside Assistance and pay for
expenses at the time of disablement. Original receipts
should be submitted to GMC Roadside Assistance for
reimbursement. A service representative will provide
assistance when you call.
The Roadside Assistance services listed are available
to retail and retail lease customers operating 2000 GMC
light duty trucks for a period of 3 years/36,000 miles
(60 000 km). All services must be pre-arranged by
GMC Roadside Assistance.
Over-the-phone assistance, such as providing the name
of the closest dealer or minor technical advice, etc., is
available to all owner/operators of GMC trucks,
regardless of vehicle or mileage.
Just dial GMC Roadside Assistance at
1-800-GMC-8782 (1-800-462-8782, Roadside
Assistance prompt) to reach a qualified representative
who can assist you.
Your Roadside Assistance representative will ask for the
following information when your call is received:
D Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
D Name and home address
D Telephone number and location from which you
are calling
D Location, license plate number and color of your
GMC truck
D Mileage of vehicle and description of problem
Roadside Assistance is available 24 hours a day, 7 days
a week, 365 days a year, including weekends and
holidays. Should you have any questions about roadside
assistance, call the GMC Roadside Assistance Center or
contact your dealer.
Roadside Assistance is not part of or included in the
coverage provided by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
GMC reserves the right to make any changes or
discontinue the Roadside Assistance program at any
time without notification.
Canadian Roadside Assistance
Vehicles purchased in Canada have an extensive
Roadside Assistance program accessible from anywhere
in Canada or the United States. Please refer to the
separate brochure provided by the dealer or call
1-800-268-6800 for emergency services.
8-7
Courtesy Transportation
GMC has always exemplified quality and value in its
offering of motor vehicles. To enhance your ownership
experience, we and our participating dealers are proud to
offer Courtesy Transportation, a customer support
program for new vehicles.
The Courtesy Transportation program is offered to retail
purchase/lease customers in conjunction with the
Bumper to Bumper coverage provided by the New
Vehicle Limited Warranty. Several transportation
options are available when warranty repairs are
required. This will reduce your inconvenience during
warranty repairs.
Plan Ahead When Possible
When your vehicle requires warranty service, you
should contact your dealer and request an appointment.
By scheduling a service appointment and advising your
service consultant of your transportation needs, your
dealer can help minimize your inconvenience. If your
vehicle cannot be scheduled into the service department
immediately, keep driving it until it can be scheduled for
service, unless, of course, the problem is safety-related.
If it is, please call your dealership, let them know this,
and ask for instructions.
8-8
If the dealer requests that you simply drop the vehicle
off for service, you are urged to do so as early in the
work day as possible to allow for same day repair.
Transportation Options
Warranty service can generally be completed while you
wait. However, if you are unable to wait GMC helps
minimize your inconvenience by providing several
transportation options. Depending on the circumstances,
your dealer can offer you one of the following:
Shuttle Service
Participating dealers can provide you with shuttle service to
get you to your destination with minimal interruption of
your daily schedule. This includes a one way shuttle ride to a
destination up to 10 miles from the dealership.
Public Transportation or Fuel Reimbursement
If your vehicle requires overnight warranty repairs,
reimbursement up to $30 per day (five days maximum)
may be available for the use of public transportation
such as taxi or bus. In addition, should you arrange
transportation through a friend or relative,
reimbursement for reasonable fuel expenses up to
$10 per day (five day maximum) may be available.
Claim amounts should reflect actual costs and be
supported by original receipts.
Courtesy Rental Vehicle
When your vehicle is unavailable due to overnight
warranty repairs, your dealer may arrange to provide
you with a courtesy rental vehicle or reimburse you for a
rental vehicle you obtained, at actual cost, up to a
maximum of $30.00 per day supported by receipts.
This requires that you sign and complete a rental
agreement and meet state, local and rental vehicle
provider requirements. Requirements vary and may
include minimum age requirements, insurance coverage,
credit card, etc. You are responsible for fuel usage
charges and may also be responsible for taxes, levies,
usage fees, excessive mileage or rental usage beyond the
completion of the repair.
Courtesy Transportation is available only at
participating dealers and all program options, such as
shuttle service, may not be available at every dealer.
Please contact your dealer for specific information about
availability. All Courtesy Transportation arrangements
will be administered by appropriate dealer personnel.
Canadian Vehicles: For warranty repairs during the
Complete Vehicle Coverage period of the General
Motors of Canada New Vehicle Limited Warranty,
alternative transportation may be available under the
Courtesy Transportation Program. Please consult your
dealer for details.
Generally it is not possible to provide a like-vehicle as a
courtesy rental.
General Motors reserves the right to unilaterally modify,
change or discontinue Courtesy Transportation at any time
and to resolve all questions of claim eligibility pursuant to the
terms and conditions described herein at its sole discretion.
Additional Program Information
Warranty Information
Courtesy Transportation is available during the
Bumper-to-Bumper warranty coverage period,
but it is not part of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
A separate booklet entitled “Warranty and Owner
Assistance Information” furnished with each new
vehicle provides detailed warranty coverage information.
Your vehicle comes with a separate warranty booklet
that contains detailed warranty information.
8-9
REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS
TO THE UNITED STATES
GOVERNMENT
If you believe that your vehicle has a defect which could
cause a crash or could cause injury or death, you should
immediately inform the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration (NHTSA), in addition to
notifying General Motors.
If NHTSA receives similar complaints, it may open an
investigation, and if it finds that a safety defect exists in
a group of vehicles, it may order a recall and remedy
campaign. However, NHTSA cannot become involved
in individual problems between you, your dealer or
General Motors.
To contact NHTSA, you may either call the Auto Safety
Hotline toll-free at 1-800-424-9393 (or 366-0123 in the
Washington, D.C. area) or write to:
NHTSA, U.S. Department of Transportation
Washington, D.C. 20590
You can also obtain other information about motor
vehicle safety from the hotline.
8-10
REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS TO
THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT
If you live in Canada, and you believe that your vehicle
has a safety defect, you should immediately notify
Transport Canada, in addition to notifying General
Motors of Canada Limited. You may write to:
Transport Canada
330 Sparks Street
Tower C
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N5
REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS
TO GENERAL MOTORS
Ordering Service and Owner
Publications in Canada
In addition to notifying NHTSA (or Transport Canada)
in a situation like this, we certainly hope you’ll notify
us. Please call us at 1-800-GMC-8782
(1-800-462-8782), or write:
Service manuals, owner’s manuals and other service
literature are available for purchase for all current and
past model General Motors vehicles.
Pontiac-GMC Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 436008
Pontiac, MI 48343-6008
In Canada, please call us at 1-800-263-3777 (English)
or 1-800-263-7854 (French). Or, write:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
The toll-free telephone number for ordering information
in Canada is 1-800-668-5539.
8-11
2000 GMC SERVICE PUBLICATIONS ORDERING INFORMATION
The following publications covering the operation and servicing of your vehicle can be purchased by filling out
the Service Publication Order Form in this book and mailing it in with your check, money order,
or credit card information to Helm, Incorporated (address below.)
CURRENT PUBLICATIONS FOR 2000 GMC
SERVICE MANUALS
Service Manuals have the diagnosis and repair information
on engines, transmission, axle, suspension, brakes,
electrical, steering, body, etc.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $120.00
OWNER’S INFORMATION
Owner publications are written directly for Owners and
intended to provide basic operational information about the
vehicle. The owner’s manual will include the Maintenance
Schedule for all models.
TRANSMISSION, TRANSAXLE, TRANSFER CASE
UNIT REPAIR MANUAL
This manual provides information on unit repair service
procedures, adjustments and specifications for the
2000 GM transmissions, transaxles and transfer cases.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $50.00
In-Portfolio: Includes a Portfolio, Owner’s Manual and
Warranty Booklet.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $20.00
SERVICE BULLETINS
Service Bulletins give technical service information needed
to knowledgeably service General Motors cars and trucks.
Each bulletin contains instructions to assist in the
diagnosis and service of your vehicle.
PLEASE COMPLETE THE ORDER FORM SHOWN ON
THE FOLLOWING PAGE AND MAIL TO:
Helm, Incorporated S P.O. Box 07130 S Detroit, MI 48207
8-12
Without Portfolio: Owner’s Manual only.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $15.00
CURRENT & PAST MODEL ORDER FORMS
Service Publications are available for current and past
model GM vehicles. To request an order form, please
specify year and model name of the vehicle.
OR ORDER TOLL FREE: 1-800-551-4123
Monday-Friday 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM Eastern Time
For Credit Card Orders Only (VISA–MasterCard–Discover)
ORDER TOLL FREE
(NOTE: For Credit Card Holders Only)
1-800-551-4123
(Monday-Friday 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM EST)
FAX Orders Only 1-313-865-5927
2
0
0
0
PUBLICATION FORM
NUMBER
Orders will be mailed within 10 days of receipt. Please allow adequate time for postal
service. If further information is needed, write to the address shown below or call
1-800-551-4123. Material cannot be returned for credit without packing slip with return
information within 30 days of delivery. On returns, a re-stocking fee may be applied
against the original order.
ITEM DESCRIPTION
VEHICLE MODEL
NAME
YEAR
QTY.
PRICE
EACH*
Service Manual
Car & Light Truck
Transmission Unit Repair
2000
$120.00
2000
$50.00
Owner’s Manual In Portfolio
2000
$20.00
Owner’s Manual Without Portfolio
2000
$15.00
TOTAL
PRICE
G
M
S
H
I
P
T
O
NOTE: Dealers and Companies please provide dealer or company name, and also the
name of the person to whose attention the shipment should be sent.
Mail completed order form to:
HELM, INCORPORATED S P.O. Box 07130 S Detroit, MI 48207
For purchases outside U.S.A. please write to the above address for quotation.
(CUSTOMER’S NAME)
(ATTENTION)
(STREET ADDRESS—NO P.O. BOX NUMBERS)
(CITY)
(STATE)
DAYTIME TELEPHONE NO.
(ZIP CODE)
(
)
AREA CODE
GM-GMC-ORD99
*(Prices are subject to change without notice and without incurring
obligation. Allow ample time for delivery.)
P
A
Y
M
E
N
T
Check or Money
Order payable to
Helm, Inc. (USA funds
only — do not send cash.)
TOTAL MATERIAL
Michigan Purchasers
add 6% sales tax
U.S. Order Processing
MasterCard
VISA
$6.00
Canadian Postage
(See Note Below)
GRAND TOTAL
Discover
Account
Number:
Expiration
Date mo/yr:
Check here if your billing address
is different from your shipping
address shown.
CUSTOMER SIGNATURE
Note to Canadian Customers: All listed prices are quoted in U.S. funds. Canadian residents
are to make checks payable in U.S. funds. To cover Canadian postage, add $11.50 plus the
U.S. order processing.
8-13