M ‘‘“ ‘kS’ fr * We hope you will get many pleasant hours with your new sewing machine. In order to make use of all its sewing possibilities, we kindly ask you to carefully read this instruction manual. 9. Hook flap, behind jamproof doble 1. Thread guides rotating hook 2. Take-up lever 3. Upper thread tension 10. Pre-tension for bobbin winding 4. Sewing switch 11. Bobbin winder shaft with drop 5. Needle fixing screw Program selector for different 12. side flat needle (when inserting sewing programs to the back) 13. Flywheel with releasing screw 6. Sewing foot ankle fixing screw (inner) for switching off sewing work 7. Sewing foot when bobbin winding 8. Needle plate with feed dog 14. Stitchlength setting and stitch regulating button for switching on three-step-safety seams 15. Reverse lever for locking (press this lever when setting or switching off stretch seams) 16. At the right plug for the combined cable 17. Button for switching in and off feed dog. 18. Clicking spot for push-on table ForYou And Your New Sewing Machine we prepared this booklet. In order to obtain the very best results of your new sewing machine, we recommend to carefully study this booket. Remember that proper care and operation are prerequisites for perfect sewing. Please care especially for the needle going up and down and carefully consider the sewing spot whilst sewing. When changing the needle, sewing foot, bobbin and needle plate, when stopping work without control and maintenance, the machine must always be switched off, thus remove plug from wall outlet. Please only use light bulbs with a max. capacity of lOw. We know you will enjoy many delightful hours with your new sewing machine. I a E41 Dial selector Sewing straightstitch and zig-zag The dial selector clearly shows two ranges with seams symbols. The outer one presents ordinary seams. When using one of these seams, set the symbol with dial selector for this seam at the top. In addition set the desired stitchlength (see page 11). With the programs for straightstitch and zig-zag the following can be sewn: Sewing foot 383 Stitch!ength setting Program 1: straightstitch center for all normal sewing works like hemming, lap hemming, inserting zippers, parallel seams, ruffling, pipings or pin tuckings, darning and embroideries (without hoop with universal darner). Program 2: narrow zig-zag uti’ity stitch for edge hemming, for applications, monograms etc. and buttonhole row for buttonholes of all sizes, for eyeletting stitches too. Program 3: medium zig-zag utility stitch for edge hemming of thin material, rolled seams, for patching. Program 4: wide zig-zag utility stitch for edge hemming of elastic fabrics (stockinets), relief monograms, hemming the edges, shell hems, embroideries and buttonhole bar, for sewing on buttons, hooks and eyelets and for eyeletting stitches. Program 5: straightstitch need’e position left for locking of buttonholes, eyelet embroideries, etc. 2 . 9 S 7 6 2 4 7 Program dial Sewing foot 383 Stitchlength setting Sewing of utility and decorative seams With the utility seams te following sewing works can be done: The dial selector clearly shows two ranges with seams symbols. The outer range shows the ordinary seams. When sewing one of these seams, set at the top the program dial of the symbol desired. Program 6: checkered decorative seam for edgings etc. Then set the desired stitchlength. Program 7: blindstitch utility seam with overseam to the left. Program 8: blindstitch utility seam with the mostly chosen overseam to the right for invisible skirt- and coat seams, decorative as shell seam, executing simultaneously a decorative hem, for attaching two layers by hemming the edges. Program 9: stitched zig-zag seam newly created utility seam for edge hemming of elastic material, for patching, for sewing elastic material, for attaching elastic bands etc. Operation see pages 17, 18,22. 3 LJ 2 2 Program dial Sewing foot 383 Stitchlength button with stretch lever Sewing of elastic safety seams The elastic seams programs are shown in the inner range of the program dial. When sewing this stretch seam, set the desired seam symbol at the top as with ordinary seams. In addition turn by means of stitchlength button the machine onto stretch, by turning over 0 to the left, until the spot = is at the top of the setting mark. When turning there will be a point you need some force, here either continue turning or simultaneously press the reverse lever. As soon as this reverse lever moves up, the safety seam is automatically set. When sewing ordinary seams again (symbols on the outer range of program dial), press reverse lever down again by turning the stitchlength button to the right into the numbered region. The safety stretch seams and their range of applcation. Program 1: elastic straightstitch safety seam needle position center. Universal utility seam for all elastic fabrics, especially important for elastic inseams in trousers, arm cuttings, bed tickings. Very nice as decorative locked seam. Application see pages 18 a/d. Programs 2-4: three-steps-sewn zig-zag-safety seam, the universal seam for all elastic fabrics. Here choose the desired stitchwidth. Program 5: elastic straightstitch safety seam Setting left ee program 1. Program 6: elastic decorative seam Program 7: overlock seam one operation avoids fringing. Sewing and overcasting only. Also very nice as decorative seam. Operation see pages 18 a/d. Program 8: overlock seam one and same operation. Sewing and overcasting Operation see pages 18a, 18d. Program 9: hag seam for sewing edge-to-edge. Hemming of stockinets. A beautiful decorative seam too. Operation see pages 18—19. — — 4 Freearm sewing machines make it easy to ew and repair sleeves, trouser legs and all other tubular pieces. A freearm also makes it much easier to attach collars ad cuffs as well as sewing of childrens clothes or darn socks and stockings on the machine. With the push-on table of the freearm in a rash the machine offers a large working surface. For eniarging the sewing area, this table is pushed onto the rnchine from left to right. Reverse you will find a take-up reel, in the front the lever “R has to snap into the hole. When taking oft, slghtly pull lever R”. In the push-on table directly there an accessories tray at the left. Compact socket machines contain the accessories in a practical tray in the center of the socket of machine. For opening only draw Out. i Removing and inserting the bobbincase For sewing, an upper and lower thread is necessary. The lower thread runs on a small bobbin in the bobbin case. With compact socket and flatbed with central hook: For removing the bobbin case, slightly lift the flatbed model. On the corn pact socket machine, the edge of the socket has to be lifted. Turn flywheel, until the needle is in its highest position. Take off bobbin case on the small flap by means of thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Fill the bobbin. Afterwards place the bobbin into the bobbin case again by taking care that the thread runs strictly in direction of the arrow. Threading into the slot, pull it below the tension spring and let it come out approx. 4 inches. Threading of lower thread Open the latch of the bobbin case and place it on the shaft of the shuttle hook. It is very essential that the bobbin case snaps in, failing this the bobbin woud be misplaced. With freearm sewing machine: For removing the bobbin case take off push-on-table and open the small flap on the freearm (see photo). With flatbed sewing machine with double rotating hook: lift the machine. Turn flywheel until the needle is in its highest position. Take off bobbin case on the small flap by means of thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Fill bobbin. Take care when placing the boboin into the bobbin case that the thread runs in direction of the arrow. Threading into the slot below the tension spring, until it is going into the opening (arrow). 7 b Connection to wall outlet See, whether the tension mentioned on the label corresponds to the power supply in your country. Connect foot control A with plug B to machine and the latter with plug C to wall outlet. The sewing speed can easily be regulated by more or less operating the foot control. Motor and controller are preserved, when the foot is taken off the pedal every time you stop sewing. Changing the light bulb The light assembly is found in the upper arm, as per illustration. Grasp the light bulb, press it inward in direction of arrow and take it off. When inserting a new bulb, press it into the socket and turn it clockwisel, press upwards by a quarter rotation in direction of arrow. Only use light bulbs with a max. of low. 6 Threading the upper thread Feed dog Generally sewing is done with raised feed dog. The exception is when cloth is to be fed by hand, e. g. for embroideries and darning. Here the feed dog is lowered. On the right ill, the position 1 means raised, position 0 lowered. Feed lowering lever with flatbed and compact socket machine. Feed lowering lever with frecarm sewing machine. fl 1 Bringing up the lower thread Hold upper thread with the left hand, turn handwheel towards you with the right hand until the take-up lever is in its highest position. Thus a loop is for med, place both threads under lifted presser foot. From spool pin A in both thread guides B and C. Then between the tension discs of thread tension D and draw the thread up in direction of arrow. Thus the thread should be held between the eyelets B and C so that it correctly goes into the thread tension spring. Then lead the thread by one of the 2 holes of the take-up lever E thus downwards by the slots F C H into th needle eye from front to back. When sewing with 2 threads, insert twin needle, then lead one thread each by the two tension discs D, the take-up lever E disposes of a borehole for each thread too. The other guides may run parallel up to the needle bar guide. Here one thread left and one right. Take care that the threads do not twist. 9 4 L h:z In addition lead thread below the bent hook of the bobbin case as shown on the photo and let it come out approx. 4 inches. Open the snap of the bobbin case and slide it on the shaft of the shuttle hook. When the snap is released, the bobbin case clicks in, When using machines with double rotating hook, the straightstitch will be nicer, the thread is not lead by the bent hook as shown above. C 8 0.1mm Bobbin winding Turn handscrew of flywheel towards you to disengage the sewing mechanism. Lead thread from spool pin via pre-tension and then into the bobbin. The bolt of the bobbin must snap into the small groove. Press bobbin against flywheel and start the machine. When bobbin is full according to ill., press it to the left again and take it off. As described, insert it with bobbin case into the machine. Fasten handscrew again. Needle and thread Table on needle and thread should always be convenient to fabric. Use needle system 705/130. Upper and lower thread generally equal, lower thread eventually somewhat thinner, but never thicker than upper thread. Needle Nm Cotton triple Ne Silk Nm 60—70 70—80 80—90 90—100 100—1 10 1 10—1 20 120—130 130—140 140—1 50 150—160 80 70 50—60 30—40 20—30 20 12 100/120/3 1203 100—80/3 70-120/3 50—100/3 70/3 40—70/3 603 40—5G’3 50/3 30—40/3 40i3 30/3 30/3 20—30i3 20:3 When working the fabric, a general Thin material: needle Nm Medium material: needle Nm Heavy material: needle Nm hint: 70—SO 80—90 100—110 Needle point: for elastic material: girdles helanca, for repair R-point for new sewing R-k-point For normal sewing works: R-point. For exact embroideries, e. g. letters, cording works with bed linen etc. R-spi-point, When using synth, thread, upper and lower thread tension should be adjusted looser, thus the seam is more elastic. 180—200 Synth. Nm — — — — embroidery thread 6-phase embroidery thread 9-phase — — — — Linen Et. No. — — 70/3 603 50/3 40/3 30—40/3 303 25/3 20:3 183 Material Kind of thread and thickness Needle point and thickness Cotton twill, bed linen, all days-cloths etc. Cambric of all kind, for blouses Cotton 40 R Nm 90—100 Depend. on kind of material, silk 100 or cotton 80 Cotton 60—80, silk 100 or synth. 100-1 20 dep. on kind and thickness of material Cotton 40 or silk 80 For normal sewing works A Nm 70—80 For embroideries R-spi Nm 70—80 A Nm 70—80 Synth. 60 or cotton 40 Cotton 40—60 Silk 80-1 00 or cotton 60 Synth. 70-1 20 depend. on kind of material Silk 100 or cotton 60—80 A-k Nm 90 A Nm 90 Fl Nm 80—1 00 R Nm 80-1 00 Cloth for shirts and blouses (repairs with synth. shirts and blouses too) Terry and chenille cloths, for bathingwraps too Elastic corsetery Firm corsetery Knitted, wool Knitted, synth. (thread tension loose) Clothing material of: sateen, ottoman, tafetas, crêpe, chiffon etc. Dresses of cotton dto. of wool Lastex- and Helanca cloth (thread tension loose) Suitings and mantlings Soft furnishings of: cotton, synth. Acella (plastics) artif. leather, canvas Decorative seams RNm9O—100 A Nm 80—90 for sateen and tafetas Nm 70—80 Cotton 40—60 Silk 110 or cotton 40—60 Synth. 60—70 depend. or silk 40—60 A Nm 80—100 A Nm 80—100 A Nm 80-1 00 Cotton 40—50 or silk 80-1 00 merc, cotton 60—80 synth. 120 Cotton 60 A A A A Buttonhole silk 40 3 A Nm 100—110 Nm Nm Nm Nm 90—100 80 70—80 80—90 Snap-on presser foot The presser foot No. 383, which accompanies the machine, is applied for straight seams, zig-zag and a lot of other utility seams. As you can see, it offers different notches, sewing could be done accordingly. In case the seam should be abt. 7 mm in width (l/4), let the material run at the outer edge of presser foot, for straight seam. Lia), and 5 The next step offers a seam of 4 mm of width ( the step inwards a seam allowance of 2 mm. Changing the snap-on presser foot The presser feet, which accompany the machine, have the form of loose soles, which are held in place on the presser foot ‘ankle’ by a spring. If you whish to change the presser foot, turn the handwheel towards you, until the needle is in its highest position. FRemove the presser foot by drawing it towards you, while pressing it slightly downwards. Slide the new presser foot over the front edge of the ankle bracket as shown in the illustration. There is a spring on the lower end of the ankle bracket. Slide on the presser foot so that the round transverse pin on the presser foot fits into the space between the bracket and the spring. Then press slightly backward and downward and the presser foot will snap into the correct position. Sewing foot for zippers The sewing foot for zippers 989 is set in quite the same way than the ordinary sewing foot. The construction of this presser foot renders it possible by either inserting it right or left of the needle to sew both sides of the zipper without turning the material. See page 20. Changing the presser foot “ankle” Certain presser feet cannot be constructed as loose soles and then the ankle bracket must also be changed. Make sure that the needle is in its highest position. Then loosen the retaining screw at the left and take off the presser foot. Changing the needle For changing the needle, loosen oval needle clamp screw. When inserting a Fresh needie, Flat side backwards up to its highest position, then tighten screw again. Only use needle system 130 705. Setting the stitchlength can easHy be done by the stitch regulating button. 1 means shortest stitchlength, 5 largest. The stitchlength area for the buttonhole is marked separately. For reverse sewing, press lever at the right of the stitchlength button, then the machine sews forward and reverse in same stitchlength as formerly set. When releasing this lever, the machine immediately sews Forward in same stitchlength. 11 Machine does not properly feed the fabric: Maintenance hints in most cases poor sewrng results are due to a blunt or damaged needle. Therefore always examine the needle first before taking any other action. Feed dog might be lowered: raise it by pressing the feed dog lowering button upward. Stitchlength regulating button is on 0: set from 1 to 5. The seam is not neat: Unattractive stitches — unattractive seams: The needle, thread and fabric do not correspond make sure that a needle system 7051130 is used. Needle incorrectly inserted. Correct IS: flat side backward and groove needle towards you. — Needle is bent or blunt: take a new needle. Needle does not correspond to thread: care for table page 10. Thread tension is incorrect: adjust thread tension (page 15). Wrong thread in machine: upper thread should be equal or somewhat thicker than lower thread. Bobbin case incorrectly threaded: test per ill. page 7/8. Put 1—2 drops of oil onto the hook in case of machines with doble rotating hooks (page 12). Bobbin is too full or irregular bobbin winding: adjust it and not too full. Care that thread is wound correctly. In case of fabric puckering with wide seam: locsen upperand lower thread tension or put fine silk paper under the fabric. Thread breaks: The thread may be too tightly tensioned: readjust tension. Incorrectly threaded: thread per ill. page 9. Thread may be entangled or jammed: set It free, Needle eye may have too sharp edges: change needle. Machine runs sluggishly: Drive-belt too tight or too loose: correct it. Machine is dry: oil it. Oil is hard: place machine in a warm room. Oil is viscous: put some petroleum on the oiling spots and let machine run at high speed for a short time. Dirt or lint have got into the shuttle: take out the bobbin and bobbin case and brush clean with special brush, the shuttle itself too, see page 13. Bobbin winder is engaged: disengage it. 14 Foot control of motor runs hot: The electric resistor has been under tension for a too long period: take your foot completely off the pedal for a while. Care of machine The points marked with an arrow must be oiled from time to time. depending on daily or weekly handling of the machine with 2—3 drops best sewing machine oil (free of acid and resin). Cleaning of hook Compact sock’t and flatbed machine with central hook Take off bobbin case mentioned in para “hook”. Turn flywheel until the needle is in its highest position. Take bobbin case f on the left small flap and take it off by thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Then turn off bare, cover b and hook a. Clean shuttle race with a soft cloth and put 2 drops of oil into it. For remounting, proceed from a, b, e, but without force. Freearm and flatbed sewing machine with doble rotating hook Take off bobbin case as mentioned in para hook” and put clean petroleum into the hook. Then clean it with smooth cloth. Doble rotating hook Central hook Some general hints for starting sewing It is always wise to try a tension test on the fabric you are using before beginning to sew. To do this, fold an off Cut of the fabr;c in half and sew straight seam in the direction of the grain; the 2 threads should lock between the 2 layers of fabrics. If the lower thread lies along the underneath of the seam pulling the top thread through. the top tension is too loose and should be set on a higher number. When turning the regulating button cpl. to 5, things will changeand now the upper thread is straight and the lower thread forms loops. The correct tension is reached, when the seams between both layers form knots. Lower thread tension It is often enough to correct the upper thread tension. New setting of lower thread tension is only When newly setting the lower thread tension, take the screwdriver off the accessories tray and turn the larger screw by ho quarter. To the left, in case thread is too tight turn to the right, when it is too loose. - necessary exceptionally. With straightstitch With zig-zag wrong wrong wrong right right 15 b. .. b Let the machine feed the fabric. Only guide the fabric towards the presser foot. When sewing very thick seams, you can assist the machine by releasing the pressure on the presser foot and gently leading the material forward. When turning a corner, stop with the needle down in the fabric. This also applies when stopping the machine in order to rearrange the work. Always start a straight seam by turnrng the handwheel towards you so that the needle enters the seam line, then lower the presser foot. (When sewing zig-zag and other stitches, it s easier to lower the presser foot over the center of the seam, then lower the needle). When sewing on thin and soft fabrics, start the seam abt. ¼’ from the edge of the fabric to prevent it from being pulled down into the needle hole of the throat plate. If you wish to extend the seam out to the very edge of the fabric, sew a few reverse stitches and then hold the thread behind the presser foot when sewing forward again. Start the machine gently and increase the speed gradually. Watch the presser foot to ensure that it follows an edge or a don’t watch the needle! seam — The best way to hold the fabricas illustrated. The left hand rests lightly on the fabric and helping to guide it forward, the right hand holding the edge of the fabric. 16 For sewing the foot lever at the back of the machine is always ‘owered. This is necessary with sewing work without foot too, since, when lowering the foot lever, upper thread tension is set. Lock the seam ends by pressing the reverse button, making the machine sew backwards. This prevents stitches coming undone. When sewing zig-zag stitches, lock the seam end by sewing a few stitches lowered. Utility- and decorative seams can by locked by pulling the thread to the back and knotting them by hand. . - Before removing the fabric, the machine should have fully completed the last stitch with the thread take-up lever in its highest position. Pull the threads away from you and cut them. Leave at least 6” (15 cm) of thread in the needle so that it will not be drawn out of the eye of the needle when the next seam is started. Hemming the edges WWM There are different possibilities, here the modern utility seams are very easy to learn and to sew. Sewing foot 383, stitchlength 5, the seam can be done by the following stitches: zig-zag wide Hemming with zig-zag btindstitch overlock seam Hemming with blindstitch Attaching 2 layers by simultaneously hemming with blindstitch Hemming with featherseam 18 AAAA/\ Place the two layers under presser foot, so that the needle scarcely penetrates at the right over the edge of fabric and at the left ab. Ye’. With a utility seams machine two layers can be attached by simultaneously hemming the edges. Here you apply the wide invisible seam, stitchlength 1,5—2. Place one layer upon another so that the cut edge points to the left and the needle in its extreme left position will only just catch the outer edge. Shell seam with simultaneously attached decorative thread Sewing foot 383, wide blindstitch, stitchlength 3. Fold cloth along the edge and place it to the left under presser foot. At the outer edge, an additional thread can be guided to be seized with every 6th stitch, i.e. with the blindhem. Here the edge of material forms small shells, depending on kind of material. Patching in strong material Sewing foot 383 zig-zag center, short stitchlength. The patch must be slightly larger than the damaged area so that the first zig-zag seam sews over the edge of the patch. When turning the fabric, leave needle in the fabric in order to securely sew the corner. Then place second seam beside the first one and cut out the danaged area. with elastic materials either apply elastic stabile seam (lockstitch zig-zag) or hag seam. Stitchtength 1—2. Sewing foot 383. The patch must be slightly larger than the damaged area and resewn by one of the above seams so that the following seam goes over the edge of the affixed patch directly to the original fabric. After resewn, cut out damaged fabric from the left directly along the seam. 17 I Assembling garments For assembling garments, i. e. for joining pieces of fabrics, the ordinary straightstitch is no longer the only choice. Many modern fabncs require stronger and more stretchable stiches like the elastic straightstitch or elastic overlock. Here are some suggestions fcr obtaining attractive seams: With straightstitch: 3 is the normal stitchlength, but the structure and weave of different fabrics might require different length adjustments so that the stitches will blend attractively into the weave of the fabric. Use shorter stitches for thin fabric, but remember that excessively short stitches give a puckered seam and excessively long stiches a loose seam. With elastic straightstitch = triple safety-seam: Use a rather fine thread, preferably embroidery cotton or synthetic thread. Helpful hint: Baste the seams with ordinary straightstitch, stitchlenght 4 with thread of same color as the fabric. When you have tried on the garment, you can fill in” the seams with elastic straight stitch. It will not be necessary to remove the basting thread, if you sew exactly along the basted seam. With the elastic knit stitch you can sew and overcast at ” 4 the same time. The seam allowance can be less than V although you can cut out the garment with a wider seam allowance, sew the seam with the knit stitch (remember that the left end of the knit stitch should follow the seam marking) and then trim the remaining seam allowance along the stitching, as shown. AAAA/\ 181 d Sewing knitteds Some hints for sewing knitteds: Use the knit stitch the elastic straightstitch. The elastic overlock seam is quite of same function than the overlock seam of garment industry. Use thin sewing thread, synth. thread or embroidery cotton. Apply a roller sewing foot. since an ordinary sewing foot catches in the loops of the knitting. Tricot seam Place needle in ts highest position. Seams selector on symbol Stitchlenght wheel on 1—2. With this seam you simultaneously join 2 layers and overcast, e. g. in knitted fabrics and stretch. This seam is used for patching of seams in underdresses, tricots and knitted garments. Top stitching You can do top stitching and decorative stitching with ordinary straightstitch, the elastic straightstitch or the decorative stitch. The elastic straightstitch can be used for attractive stitching in all fabrics, but is especially suitabe for top stitching in knits. When top stitching with buttonhole twist thread, you will need a needle corresponding in size to the thread, a 100—110. It will consequently make rather large holes in the fabric. Another way of obtaining prominent stitching is to thread two strands in the same needle. Parallel rows of decorative stitching can be sewn with a twin needle. 18 II Elastic straightstitch Sewing knit and stretch fabrics These types of fabric account for well over 50% of all garments made. Common to all of them is that they stretch and therefore require an elastic seam, such as the elastic straightstitch, knit stitch or the elastic blind hem, all available on your sewing machine. Use fine thread, preferable embroidery cotton or synth. thread. After selecting the elastic straightstitch it is possible to make slight adjustments to the stitchlengths. In case the fabric is very elastic, the upper thread tension can be loosened somewhat for knits with a higher degree of stretch. - Helpful hint: Baste the seams with ordinary straightstitch, stitchlength 4 and thread the same color as the fabric. When you have tried on the garment, you can ‘fill in the seams with an elastic straight seam. It is not necessary to remove the basting thread if you sew exactly along the basted seam. You can use the elastic straightstitch for decorative top stitching as well. It may be desirable to loosen the upper thread tension a little. For sharper creases in trousers etc. in doble knits you can sew them with a twin needle using elastic straightstitch. Use the raised seam presser foot and the gimp guide, but do not use a gimp thread. Sew the trouser creases before joining the side and inner leg seams. Elastic straightstitch Triple ric-rac Top stitching The most suitable stitches to use when assembling a knitted fabric garment are the elastic straightstitch or the knit stitch. Elastic straightstitch is used when you want seam allowances pressed open. The knit stitch sews the parts together and finishes the seam allowance in one operation. Here a fine and proper needle (70—80) is needed. 18111 The wide elastic seam for stockinets and modern garments Sewing foot 383, hag seam, sewing program zig-zag center width 5. Baste the seam according to desired width (without allowance). Seam is made abt. /o of the inner edge of seam, e, g. that the large zig-zag stitches Qoint to the outer edge. Cut out the overlapping edge closely to the seam. XxW Triple ric-rac Knit stitch Use fine thread, embroidery cotton or synth. thread. After selecting the knit stitch you are free to adjust the stitchlength and the stitchwidth. Knit stitch seam allowances are abt. ‘/“. Of course, the garment may be cut out using a pattern, which calls 8 for a wider S/ seam allowance. In this case, make sure that the lefthand edge of the knit stitch follows the seam line. Then trim away the surplus allowance. Also use the knit stitch for sewing on collars, cuffs, flaps, pockets, belt loops, etc. Facings can also be sewn on with the knit stitch. AAAAA Many doble knits do not require overcasting, but when necessary use the three-step zig-zag. Test by pulling along the edge of a scrap of material and see, whether it frays or if “runners” are formed. ‘ A, s % 1 V l\ ,1 1 A %1 l 1 Stretch fabrics Stretch fabrics are woven garments, which will be made elastic account to different operations. They can be elastic in length- or square direction of layer or in both directions and principally will be sewn especially as mentioned under “knitteds”. 18 IV Sewing terry cloth Terry cloth s rather loosely woven fabric, in which seams easily break and where hems are frequently thick and clumsy. Here are a few suggestions for getting the best results when sewing in terry cloth. When overcasting proceed as follows: Sew the garment together leaving I8” to Ia” seam allowance. Trim the seams so that they do not fray. Fold back the seam allowances and sew the edges down against the garment with three-step zig-zag. Even though the stitching goes right through to the ‘right” side of the garment. it is almost invisible. If you wish to reinforce the seam even further, you can, after sewing and overcasting as described above, turn the garment “right’ side Cut and from the “right” side, sew a three-step zig-zag along the center of the joining seam. The overlapping seam will be very flexble, but not quite as durable as the previous reinforced seam. Lap seam allowances one over the other, matching seam lines. Sew over both edges together against the garment with three-step zig-zag, once from the “right’ side and the second time from the wrong side. Suitable for shoulder seams, piecing of the reverse side of collar. etc. When hemming terry cloth garments, it is only necessary to turn the hem once and sew with three-step zig-zag. This gives a smooth and flexible hem. Neck lines and armholes are finished in a similar manner. Turn the hem once and sew down with three-step zig-zag. 19 Sewing in zippers Zipper under the left-hand edge of the opening Keep the zipper closed. Baste the opening together by machine using long stitches and loose top thread 3/4 open at tension. Leave at least the top. Put on the zipper presser foot so that it is to the left of the needle. Fold the rear seam allowance /a from the basted seam and sew it to the right-hand edge of the zipper with the work reverse and sewing from the bottom upwards. Stop the machine with the needle down in the from the end of the fabric abt. seam and lift the presser foot, now open the zipper so that the slide is the back of the needle, lower the presser foot and finish the seam. Turn the presser foot so that it is to the right of the needle. Turn the garment and sew on the other side of the zipper on the right side. Begin with a cross seam at the lower edge and then sew from the bottom upwards. Remove the basting. Zipper under the center of the opening Baste the opening together by machine with long stitches and loose top tension. Leave abt. 3/4 open at the top of the opening. Press the seam open and baste the zipper under the seam by hand. Change to the zipper presser foot putting it to the left of the needle. 20 Turn presser foot so that it is at the right of the needle. Start by sewing the seam across the bottom to join the two long seams. Then sew the right side the same as the left. Remove the basting. Roller sewing foot The roller sewing foot 901 is needed for rough-knitted garments and certain knitteds and stretch fabrics as well as leather imitations and plastics. Thechannelied rolls render possible a better feed of these fabrics. It could be necessary to separately adjust the pressure foot stroke in order to reach the desired results. L Sew the left-hand edge from the bottom upwards, leaving the zipper closed. Before the seam is finished, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, open the zipper so that the slide is at the back of the needle, lower presser foot and finish the seam. 21 Ruffling of fabrics Sewing foot 383, upper thread sewing silk or sewing thread 60, upper thread tension looser than generally. sewing thread 40. Lower thread — A V 22 SI ,I A iI V sf 1st possibility: The cloth to be ruffled is sewn by straighfstitch. It is possible to make some seams one beside the other. Pull the lower threads to desired width and tie them. 2nd possibility: Ruffler 1-655. stitchlength 4—5. Sew material as usual. Owing to special operation of ruffler, material automatically ruffles. If one layer is to be ruffled and another one shall remain flat, the latter one must be inserted into the slot of the ruffter and the first one must be laid underneath (see ill.). 3rd possibility: Ruffling with flat elastic. Sewing foot 383, special sewing program elastic seam. Stitchlength 2. Place the elastic on the material and stretch it both in front of and behind the presser foot. The more the elastic is stretched, the more the fabric is ruffled. Perhaps try at a sample piece in order to receive the correct stretch. Darning After loosening of fixing screw take off sewing foot shank. Then screw on universal darner sothatthe moveable lever is over the needle hoider screw and will be lifted with each seam. (see ill.) Cut out the area to be sewn rectangularly and resew properly with straight stitches. Now lower feed dog (keep needle on straight stitch center) and hold material with both bands so that it is smoothly tightened. Then guide material from left to right and sew one seam beside the other (ill. b). Thus the hole is ready in one direction, make the material glide forward and reverse and again place one seam beside the other (ill. c). In order to avoid drawing together of the weaving, the material could be placed into an embroidery frame, this is, however, not necessary with our universal darner. For darning of linen we recommend sewing silk 50 or 60, needle 70 or 80. ,,.‘..,., Darning of tears—weaving darning Sewing foot 383, elastic or large zig-zag seam, stitchlength between 0—i. When darning an angle tear, pay attention that both parts closely join. Then connect these layers by various seams one beside the other as per ill. Take care that the seams nicely mesh. Should the torn material be porous, undersew another material, thus the darned area will be more sturdy and durable. Wool darning for knitwear and terry cloth lowered feed dog. Darner 1-682, straightstitch, stitch(ength 0 1st operation: Lead the darning thread into the opening of the foot and attach it by some stitches onto the material to be darned. Now start sewing by leading the thread in diagonal directioe as per ill, a on page 23 over the area to be darned and fix it at the left and at the right beside the damaged area. Place one thread closely to the other, until the damaged area is covered. 2nd operation: When the damaged area is full of wool, sew the complete area with an elastic zig-zag seam, but in opposed direction so that the wool threads done by the first operation cannot move against each other. = 23 Monograms Depending on fabric, monograms can either be sewn with ort without embroidery frame. When using thin cloth, draw monograms on the cloth and put it dead straight into the frame Sewing thread. embroidery thread 40—60, zig-zag width depending on size of letters. Lower feed dog. Remove presser foot and put cloth under the needle. Lower foot lever By turning the handwheel, take up lower thread and retain both threads. Then guide cloth according to design by running the machine not too slowly. While sewing, move the frame following the design. Using thicker fabrics, the embroidery frame is not necessary, but then retain the material with both hands by using the universal darner 1-682. The same concerns fancy patterns. Applique Sewing foot 395, stitchwidth narrow, stitchlength 1,5. F;rstly design pattern on the left side of cloth and baste the materia to be used for applique on the surface Right side at the bottom, place fabric under sewing machine and sew from left along the design by using a zig-zag not too narrow. Then cut off basting stitches and carefully cut away beside the seam the overlapping material. Sew the Cut edges, closely one beside the other, by a tight covering zig-zag seam. For a nicer border, you can use an additional cording thread, leading from top into the hole of the cording foot. - - __;_— - -4 b: - - Hem stitches Here you need a special hemstitching needle. Zig-zag hinged presser foot 383. Zig-zag needle position center or utility- resp. decorative seam. Stitchlength 2-3. For hemstitching you need an especially suitable fabric, i. e. organza. Do the first seam with the wing needle. By each penetration this needle expands the web threads of material by bunching them. At the end of the seam lift presser foot and turn material. Start again with needle penetration in the hole made before, thus the same hem is sewn once more in reverse direction. Care that the second penetration is made strictly into the holes of the preceeding seam. Thus various hemstitches can be done. one beside the other. An especially nice effect is obtained 9 antihty- or decorative seam instead of simple by USifl zig-zag. 25 a J4 - — — Inserting laces . Sewing foot 383 This work is done by two different procedures. Attach the lace at both edges onto the flat cloth with straightstitch. Then cut off the material on the back in the middle of both seams fold it to both sides and iron ouL Then oversew the lace edges on both sides by small zig-zag and short stitchlength. Thus you obtain a solid but elastic connection. Finally cut off the overlapping cloth on the back along the seam. Attaching laces Sewing foot 383, small zig-zag stitch, stitchlength 2—3. When using strong material like linen etc., scarcely iron the edge to the left e and make it run under the sewing foot, with right side of material abt. 31 above., beside the lace, attach both by zig-zag seam. After sewing is done, Cut the overlapping material. 26 off Eyeletting stitches The eyeietting equipment is special accessory. You need cover plates with strong bolts to be placed onto the needle plate, also an embroidery loop and a graver. For doing eyeletting stitches, remove presser foot, lower feed dog and set (as far as available needle position left) the large zigzag. Puncture the material on the spot the embroidery should be effected. Stretch material in a frame and perforate 1/4 by the graver according to the size. Place eyeletting holes by /o, 3/4, 1/8 or plates on the needle plate on the material with the hole and with the bolt. Use sewing silk 50, white or colored, upper thread tension looser than lower tension. Lower presser foot lever and get upper thread by turning the handwheel. Then set zig-zag in desired width and do some stitches by turning the loop to the right and retain the edges of thread. Now cut them off. Then go on by rotating the loop slowly for doing a corona of stitches as close as possible. When the circle is completed, lock the thread by some straight stitches. For doble embroidery holes, first do an equal corona of stitches with narrow zig-zag, then adjust a wide zig-zag and have the machine run slower by quicker turning of the frame. S Using an eyelet plate is different with the various machine models. Below description of the three possibilities: I C D With compact socket and flatbed machine lower feed dog. Use eyeletting plate, you can buy as special acessories and align it with catches A and B as per ill, into the slots for feed dog on the needle plate. Now press eyeletting plate in direction of arrow and press catch C into the provided window of the plate. For removing the eyeletting plate, lift it at the spot D by means of scissors or similar tool until the catch C appears, then the eyeletting plate can easily be removed contrary to arrow’s direction. 27 With freearm machine push part A as per II. under the eyetetting plate and press it on the needle plate so that catch B engages. In order to remove the eyeletting plate, it is necessary to lift it by means of scissors or similar tool as shown at the left and pull in direction of arrow. Pipings (pin tuckings) Pipings are very popular on dresses, blouses and coats. They are sewn in flat fabric with doble needle resp. with two upper threads in one and the same operation. Here the socalled twin needle is used instead of the ordinary needle. This can be made with all machine models. When threading is made, guide one thread each over the tension disc, takeup lever and eyelets of the needle holder. Take care that the threads do not twist. Depending on fabric’s thickness choice the sewing foot and needle distance of twin needle, In order to get a very decorative, nice raised seam, use of a socalled ‘piping finger” is recommended, here an additional thread runs through and it is undersewn on the wrong side of fabric. Use a twin needle No. 90—2,8 mm, piping foot No. 389 and piping finger. Straightstitch, stitchlength 3—4. 28 j I II Settingthepipingplate is different with the various models. Below a description of the three possibilities. With flatbed and compact socket machine on Insert catch A in the opening provided and glide the piping plate in directi for slots the into pressed be can and C s B catche the until of arrow, feed dog into the needle plate. s For removing the piping plate, slightly lift D by scissors so that the catche s you. ed toward remov be can A catch then free, are B and C The ill, besides shows the running of additional thread. At the bottom of D the piping plate has a passage for taking and exactly guiding the thread. 29 Marking Marking foot 931, large zig-zag seam center, stitchlength abt. 5. Loosen upper thread tension so that nice loose loops will be sewn. After finishing do not forget to readjust tension. It is important to always lead thread laterally under presser foot. easy to transmit a pattern By using the above marking foot it is very cloth. to the and Fold the cloth in two layers and place it as mirrorimage under the pattern nging. disarra a avoid to in order , pattern and smoothly baste cloth While sewing, wide loops are formed. Cut these off between both layers, then the rest of thread remains in the cloth, offering you the desired marking (see ill). Basting For firstly fitting on dresses, blouses etc. you desire a loose basting seam. Here use the marking foot 931. Upper thread tension very tight so that n center, loose loops will be formed. Adjust narrow zig-zag and needle positio can which seam, basting largest stitchlength. Thus you get a loose easily be ripped. Blind hemming You will find the blindstitching presser foot No, 331 in the accessory box. Attach it in the same way as the regular presser foot. Snce the different fabrics are of different thickness, the sewing foot could be removed to both sides so that the guide B at the lower side of presser foot can be adjusted, since the latter foot is adapted to thickness of fabric. Position of sewing foot can be changed by turning reverse—the roll A. forward thin fabrics, the roll is turned to—, when sewing When Test the correct setting. sewint thick fabrics, turn to When sewing, fold fabric as shown in the sketch. - —. Make sure that the folded edge at the guide B runs at under side of the presser foot. With the invisible seam e.g. skirts are sewn without the seam appearing at the front of the fabric. The seam consists of small straight stitches and large zig-zag ones. . With freearm machine finger Push tongue A under needle plate in direction of arrow, Press piping piping raise y slightl e, remov To s. engage B catch that so plate on the needle s toward plate e finger by scissors at C, until catch B appears. Remov you, contrary to arrow. h The additional thread needed for sewing raised seams is guided throug the finger of the piping plate as shown. Programmed decorative seams e can also be The programmed utility- and decorative seams on your machin . ideries applied for flat embro and sew at narrow Adjust the desired decorative seam, sewing foot 383 or 512, together and close seams tive decora nt differe ning combi stitchlength. By wide or embroidery of colored tapes or cords, very nice narrow decorative stripes and edges can be achieved. Some basic hints: tension looser When doing embroideries, flat embroideries etc., upper therad at the under done is threads of g knottin case any in that than lower thread so lly sewing especia end recomm we , ideries embro doing When side of fabric. . machine- or darning thread as well as gold or silver threads Decorative seams with twin needles . Here use Very attractive fancy patterns can be sewn by using a twin needle !32 to /o by adjusting the e distanc needle narrow with a twin needle penetration stitch width somewhat narrow so that the needle in its lateral plate. needle the to nor foot can neither come up to the sewing different Very effective decorative seams can be done by combining two colors of thread. 30 Sewing of buttonhole Buttonhole foot 371, stitchlength depending on fabric 0,5—i ,0 (buttonhole symbol). Embroidery cotton 50—60 or sewing silk. A particularly nice effect is obtained by the use of additional thread to be placed beneath the right groove of the buttonhole foot. At the end leave the needle at the right. Lift foot and turn fabric clockwise. The additional thread must go around the needle, lower foot, needle lifted. With program 2 sew the first row. • r 34 IJ 111 Lift needle and do the second row with program 2. 11 4 2 At the end lift needle and do 4—5 barring stitches by program 4, retain fabric, 5 With program 4 do 4—5 barring stitches by retaining the material so that the bar will not become too long. 3 Then lift needle and do some locking stitches by program 5. At the end cut off additional thread and cut open the buttonhole with seam ripper. 6 With your new sewing machine the following standard accessory is included: — buttonhol foot 1-641 oil pan sewing foot 383 on machine - ri blind sewing foot MN 5051 228 1 seamripper for cutting off buttonholes, for separating seams I: screwd river decorative sewing foot MN 5051 51221 screwdriwe0z 0 1 ass, of needles syst. 705/130 1 ij S bobbins (°O) for flatbed and compact No. 1-260 for freearm No. 330-252 roller foot for leather and plastics MN 5051 901 1 0 70 80 80 90 SQ darner 1-682 zipper foot and edger MN 5051 989 1 35 ______________ ssories For your sewing machine the following special acce is available hemmer eyeletting plate I set = 3 pcs. hole 0 02,8= No.111 HgSl 0 4,0 No. 111 Hg 52 0 6,0 = No. 111 Hg 53 for flatbed and compact models eyeletting plate lset=3pcs. hole 0 51 0 2,8 No. 360 Hg 0 4,0 = No. 360 Hg 52 0 6,0 = No. 360 Hg 53 for freearm mode!s sewing foot for decorative seams MN 5051 391 1 ““‘I j MN 5051 3841 piping loot with 3 grooves MN50513891 straight seams - hemmer 5/as’, MN50513871 for zig zag piping toot with I groove MN 5051 388 1 _______ marking foot piping finger No. 70—414 for flatbed and compact models MN50519311 shell hemmer MN 5051 386 1 for zig-zag seam and soft fabrics fJ piping finger No. 250—476 for freearm models rt’ffler (with shank) 1—655 hemmer /16” MN 5051 385 1 for straight seams © embroidery frame 023 1 - MN 5053 732 1 sewing foot for nylon MN 5051 988 1 2 r° 28 Frame MN 5053 398 1 I 1 L 36 *!I slide plate for sewing foot MN 50538661 twin needles set = 3 pcs. 1,8 mm = = 2 mm 4 mm = /32” MN 50536211 sewing foot for especially fine seams in thin fabrics MN 5051 394 1 \ U) 32 (S/ MN 5053 3982 (5”) graver 1—-496 Alphabetical index Accessories Applique Arched seam Attaching elastic bands Attaching two layersis Basting Blindstitching Buttonholes Changing the sewing foot Cleaning Darning Darning angles and tears Decorative seams Decorative seams hints D:sturbanceS Edge hemming Elastic seams Eyeletting stitches Feed of material Hem stitching Hook Inserting zippers Invisible seam — . . 35,36 25 3 22 18 24 33 34 12 13 23 23 3/19 3 4 29 14 32 27 27 9 18 7/8 20 33 . Knitteds Lace hemming Lace inserting Linen seam Lower thread Maintenance Marking Monograms Oiling Spots Placing the needle Patching Patching in strong material —in strong material in elastic material —inelasticmaterial Pipings Power connection Rolled seam Ruffling Scolloped seam Sewing on hooks Sewing light — — 18 26 26 32 8,915 13 24 25 13 11 17 17/18 17 17/18 17 17/18 28 6 32 22 6 24 6 Sewing on buttons Sewing of leather Sewing terry cloth Sewn seams Shell hem Shell hem with decor. thread Stitchlength Stockinets . Straingt-on seam in strong material in elastic material Stretch seam Table on thread Thickness of needle Threading Thread tension Utility seam Utility seam Weaving darning Wool darning Zig-zag sewing Zig-zag sewing — — 30 21 19 18 32 18 11 18 2 4 4/18 10 10 9 15 3 3.4 23 23 2 1/2 t*AIt4 Hemmers You will find a hemmer useful when sewing long hems in fabrics, which are not excessively thick. There are hemmers for 2 mm No. 384 (J6”) and 5 mm No. 385 (rio”) as well as 2 mm (5 64) rolled hem No. 387. and 3 mm (1I) shell stitch hem No. 386. The edge to be hemmed should be trimmed and straight. Fold over the edge twice for the o” hemmer. First fold over a little less than i” and then again to bring it up to approx. 16”. It is only necessary to fold in this manner at the beginning of the hem, as the hemmer will take care of the folding if you guide the fabric properly. 32 ,,L;: I Insert the folded edge of the fabric into the hemmer so that it is well under the presser foot. Lower the presser loot. Sew a stitch where the hem starts. Hold the loose end of the thread firmly to the rear of the presser foot. Lift the hemmer in order to insert the edge of the fabric in the funnel” of the hemmer. Hold the fabric as shown in the illustration and let the machine feed the fabric. If the edge of the fabric tends to glide out of the hemmer, guide it slightly to the right. If too much fabric enters the hemmer, pull it slightly to the left. Rolled hem, Foot No. 387. Instead of folding the hem when starting, roll it and then insert it in the hemmer in the same way. Sew with zig-zag, stitchlength abt. 2 and stitchwidth 3 or slightly more. Make sure that the zig-zag sews over the entire width of the hem. The upper thread tension can be increased. Shell hem, Foot No. 386. Is sewn with zig-zag and increased upper thread tension. It is more suitable for thin fabrics. Turning corners with the hemmer is only possible on thin fabrics. When the first edge has been hemmed, remove the work from the machine. Fold the fabric in the same way as before, but cut off the corner so that it will not be too thick. Sewing on buttons Remove presser foot, ankle. Place button on the fabric and lower feed dog, the presser foot ankle thus maintains the button. Lower feed dog (so that stitchtength is unimportant), stitchwidth on needle position left, according to hole distance of the button to be sewn. With an up-to-date zig-zag sewing machine all buttons with 2, 3 or 4 holes can be sewn with a hole distance of 4 mm (‘/o”), The button is thus put onto the cloth, then both under the sewing foot so that the needle penetrates at the right and left in one hole each, the stitchwidth to be adjusted try preferably by moving the needle at slow turning of flywheel. When the correct needle penetration width is found, attach button by 8—1Osttches. In case of 4-hole-buttons, sew the remaining two holes as described above. Finally, set straightstitch, needle position left and do some locking stitches. When sewing is finished, do not forget adjusting Feed dog on sewing position. Button reed When sewing buttons on garments, a stem’ is often desired so that the button stands slightly away from the fabric. Here you can use the button reed 732. Use the thin end when sewing buttons on thin fabrics, the thick end for heavier fabrics. Mark the place where the button is to be sewn and place the garment under the bracket without lowering the presser bar. Insert the button reed as shown in the ill. with the marking in the center of the opening. Place the button on top and lower the presser bar. Then tighten the button as described above. Attaching hooks and eyelets same as above. 31
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