M
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*
We hope you will get many pleasant hours with your new sewing machine.
In order to make use of all its sewing possibilities, we kindly ask you to carefully
read this instruction manual.
9. Hook flap, behind jamproof doble
1. Thread guides
rotating hook
2. Take-up lever
3. Upper thread tension
10. Pre-tension for bobbin winding
4. Sewing switch
11. Bobbin winder shaft with drop
5. Needle fixing screw
Program selector for different
12.
side
flat
needle
(when inserting
sewing programs
to the back)
13. Flywheel with releasing screw
6. Sewing foot ankle fixing screw
(inner) for switching off sewing work
7. Sewing foot
when bobbin winding
8. Needle plate with feed dog
14. Stitchlength setting and stitch
regulating button for switching on
three-step-safety seams
15.
Reverse lever for locking
(press this lever when setting or
switching off stretch seams)
16.
At the right plug for the combined
cable
17. Button for switching in and off
feed dog.
18. Clicking spot for push-on table
ForYou
And Your New
Sewing
Machine
we prepared this booklet. In order to obtain the very best
results of your new sewing machine, we recommend
to carefully study this booket. Remember that proper
care and operation are prerequisites for perfect sewing.
Please care especially for the needle going up and
down and carefully consider the sewing spot
whilst sewing.
When changing the needle, sewing foot, bobbin and
needle plate, when stopping work without control and
maintenance, the machine must always be switched off,
thus remove plug from wall outlet.
Please only use light bulbs with a max. capacity of lOw.
We know you will enjoy many delightful hours with
your new sewing machine.
I
a
E41
Dial selector
Sewing straightstitch and zig-zag
The dial selector clearly shows two ranges with seams
symbols. The outer one presents ordinary seams.
When using one of these seams, set the symbol with
dial selector for this seam at the top.
In addition set the desired stitchlength (see page 11).
With the programs for straightstitch and zig-zag
the following can be sewn:
Sewing foot 383
Stitch!ength setting
Program 1: straightstitch center
for all normal sewing works like hemming, lap hemming,
inserting zippers, parallel seams, ruffling, pipings or
pin tuckings, darning and embroideries (without hoop
with universal darner).
Program 2: narrow zig-zag uti’ity stitch
for edge hemming, for applications, monograms etc.
and buttonhole row for buttonholes of all sizes,
for eyeletting stitches too.
Program 3: medium zig-zag utility stitch
for edge hemming of thin material, rolled seams,
for patching.
Program 4: wide zig-zag utility stitch
for edge hemming of elastic fabrics (stockinets),
relief monograms, hemming the edges, shell hems,
embroideries and buttonhole bar, for sewing on buttons,
hooks and eyelets and for eyeletting stitches.
Program 5: straightstitch need’e position left
for locking of buttonholes, eyelet embroideries, etc.
2
.
9
S
7
6
2
4
7
Program dial
Sewing foot 383
Stitchlength setting
Sewing of utility and decorative seams
With the utility seams te following sewing works
can be done:
The dial selector clearly shows two ranges with seams
symbols. The outer range shows the ordinary seams.
When sewing one of these seams, set at the top the
program dial of the symbol desired.
Program 6: checkered decorative seam
for edgings etc.
Then set the desired stitchlength.
Program 7: blindstitch utility seam
with overseam to the left.
Program 8: blindstitch utility seam
with the mostly chosen overseam to the right for invisible
skirt- and coat seams, decorative as shell seam,
executing simultaneously a decorative hem, for attaching
two layers by hemming the edges.
Program 9: stitched zig-zag seam
newly created utility seam for edge hemming of elastic
material, for patching, for sewing elastic material,
for attaching elastic bands etc.
Operation see pages 17, 18,22.
3
LJ
2
2
Program dial
Sewing foot 383 Stitchlength button with stretch lever
Sewing of elastic safety seams
The elastic seams programs are shown in the inner range
of the program dial. When sewing this stretch seam,
set the desired seam symbol at the top as with
ordinary seams.
In addition turn by means of stitchlength button the
machine onto stretch, by turning over 0 to the left, until
the spot = is at the top of the setting mark. When turning
there will be a point you need some force, here either
continue turning or simultaneously press the reverse lever.
As soon as this reverse lever moves up, the safety
seam is automatically set.
When sewing ordinary seams again (symbols on the outer
range of program dial), press reverse lever down again
by turning the stitchlength button to the right into
the numbered region.
The safety stretch seams and their range of applcation.
Program 1: elastic straightstitch safety seam
needle position center. Universal utility seam for all elastic
fabrics, especially important for elastic inseams in
trousers, arm cuttings, bed tickings. Very nice
as decorative locked seam.
Application see pages 18 a/d.
Programs 2-4: three-steps-sewn zig-zag-safety seam,
the universal seam for all elastic fabrics. Here choose the
desired stitchwidth.
Program 5: elastic straightstitch safety seam
Setting left ee program 1.
Program 6: elastic decorative seam
Program 7: overlock seam
one operation
avoids fringing. Sewing and overcasting
only. Also very nice as decorative seam.
Operation see pages 18 a/d.
Program 8: overlock seam
one and same operation.
Sewing and overcasting
Operation see pages 18a, 18d.
Program 9: hag seam
for sewing edge-to-edge. Hemming of stockinets.
A beautiful decorative seam too.
Operation see pages 18—19.
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—
4
Freearm sewing machines
make it easy to ew and repair sleeves, trouser legs and all
other tubular pieces. A freearm also makes it much easier
to attach collars ad cuffs as well as sewing of childrens
clothes or darn socks and stockings on the machine.
With the push-on table of the freearm
in a rash the machine offers a large working surface.
For eniarging the sewing area, this table is pushed onto the
rnchine from left to right. Reverse you will find a take-up reel,
in the front the lever “R has to snap into the hole. When taking
oft, slghtly pull lever R”. In the push-on table directly there
an accessories tray at the left.
Compact socket machines
contain the accessories in a practical tray in the
center of the socket of machine. For opening only draw
Out.
i
Removing and inserting the bobbincase
For sewing, an upper and lower thread is necessary.
The lower thread runs on a small bobbin in the
bobbin case.
With compact socket and flatbed with central hook:
For removing the bobbin case, slightly lift the flatbed
model. On the corn pact socket machine, the edge of the
socket has to be lifted. Turn flywheel, until the needle is in
its highest position. Take off bobbin case on the small
flap by means of thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Fill
the bobbin. Afterwards place the bobbin into the
bobbin case again by taking care that the thread runs
strictly in direction of the arrow. Threading into the slot,
pull it below the tension spring and let it come out
approx. 4 inches.
Threading of lower thread
Open the latch of the bobbin case and place it on the
shaft of the shuttle hook. It is very essential that the
bobbin case snaps in, failing this the bobbin woud be
misplaced.
With freearm sewing machine: For removing the bobbin
case take off push-on-table and open the small flap
on the freearm (see photo).
With flatbed sewing machine with double rotating hook:
lift the machine. Turn flywheel until the needle is in its
highest position. Take off bobbin case on the small flap
by means of thumb and forefinger of the left hand.
Fill bobbin. Take care when placing the boboin into the
bobbin case that the thread runs in direction
of the arrow.
Threading into the slot below the tension spring, until it is
going into the opening (arrow).
7
b
Connection to wall outlet
See, whether the tension mentioned on the label corresponds to
the power supply in your country. Connect foot control A with
plug B to machine and the latter with plug C to wall outlet.
The sewing speed can easily be regulated by more or
less operating the foot control.
Motor and controller are preserved, when the foot is taken
off the pedal every time you stop sewing.
Changing the light bulb
The light assembly is found in the upper
arm, as per illustration. Grasp the light
bulb, press it inward in direction of
arrow and take it off.
When inserting a new bulb, press it into
the socket and turn it clockwisel, press
upwards by a quarter rotation in direction
of arrow.
Only use light bulbs with a max. of low.
6
Threading the
upper thread
Feed dog
Generally sewing is done
with raised feed dog.
The exception is when
cloth is to be fed by hand,
e. g. for embroideries
and darning. Here the
feed dog is lowered. On
the right ill, the position 1
means raised, position 0
lowered.
Feed lowering lever with
flatbed and compact
socket machine.
Feed lowering lever with
frecarm sewing machine.
fl
1
Bringing up the
lower thread
Hold upper thread with
the left hand, turn
handwheel towards you
with the right hand until
the take-up lever is in its
highest position. Thus
a loop is for med, place
both threads under lifted
presser foot.
From spool pin A in both
thread guides B and C.
Then between the
tension discs of
thread tension D and
draw the thread up in
direction of arrow. Thus
the thread should be
held between the eyelets
B and C so that it
correctly goes into the
thread tension spring.
Then lead the thread by
one of the 2 holes of
the take-up lever E thus
downwards by the slots
F C H into th needle
eye from front to back.
When sewing with 2 threads, insert twin needle, then lead
one thread each by the two tension discs D, the take-up
lever E disposes of a borehole for each thread too.
The other guides may run parallel up to the needle bar
guide. Here one thread left and one right. Take
care that the threads do not twist.
9
4
L
h:z
In addition lead thread below the bent hook of the bobbin
case as shown on the photo and let it come out
approx. 4 inches. Open the snap of the bobbin case and
slide it on the shaft of the shuttle hook. When the snap
is released, the bobbin case clicks in,
When using machines with double rotating hook, the
straightstitch will be nicer, the thread is not lead by
the bent hook as shown above.
C
8
0.1mm
Bobbin winding
Turn handscrew of flywheel towards you to disengage
the sewing mechanism. Lead thread from spool pin via
pre-tension and then into the bobbin. The bolt of the
bobbin must snap into the small groove.
Press bobbin against flywheel and start the machine. When
bobbin is full according to ill., press it to the left
again and take it off. As described, insert it with bobbin
case into the machine. Fasten handscrew again.
Needle and thread
Table on needle and thread
should always be convenient to fabric. Use needle system
705/130. Upper and lower thread generally equal, lower thread
eventually somewhat thinner, but never thicker than
upper thread.
Needle
Nm
Cotton
triple Ne
Silk
Nm
60—70
70—80
80—90
90—100
100—1 10
1 10—1 20
120—130
130—140
140—1 50
150—160
80
70
50—60
30—40
20—30
20
12
100/120/3
1203
100—80/3 70-120/3
50—100/3
70/3
40—70/3
603
40—5G’3
50/3
30—40/3
40i3
30/3
30/3
20—30i3
20:3
When working the fabric, a general
Thin material:
needle Nm
Medium material:
needle Nm
Heavy material:
needle Nm
hint:
70—SO
80—90
100—110
Needle point:
for elastic material: girdles
helanca, for repair R-point
for new sewing R-k-point
For normal sewing works: R-point.
For exact embroideries, e. g. letters, cording works with bed
linen etc. R-spi-point,
When using synth, thread, upper and lower thread tension
should be adjusted looser, thus the seam is more elastic.
180—200
Synth.
Nm
—
—
—
—
embroidery
thread 6-phase
embroidery
thread 9-phase
—
—
—
—
Linen
Et. No.
—
—
70/3
603
50/3
40/3
30—40/3
303
25/3
20:3
183
Material
Kind of thread and thickness
Needle point and thickness
Cotton twill, bed linen, all days-cloths etc.
Cambric of all kind, for blouses
Cotton 40
R Nm 90—100
Depend. on kind of material,
silk 100 or cotton 80
Cotton 60—80, silk 100 or
synth. 100-1 20 dep. on kind and
thickness of material
Cotton 40 or silk 80
For normal sewing works A Nm 70—80
For embroideries R-spi Nm 70—80
A Nm 70—80
Synth. 60 or cotton 40
Cotton 40—60
Silk 80-1 00 or cotton 60
Synth. 70-1 20 depend.
on kind of material
Silk 100 or cotton 60—80
A-k Nm 90
A Nm 90
Fl Nm 80—1 00
R Nm 80-1 00
Cloth for shirts and blouses (repairs with
synth. shirts and blouses too)
Terry and chenille cloths, for bathingwraps too
Elastic corsetery
Firm corsetery
Knitted, wool
Knitted, synth.
(thread tension loose)
Clothing material of: sateen, ottoman,
tafetas, crêpe, chiffon etc.
Dresses of cotton
dto. of wool
Lastex- and Helanca cloth
(thread tension loose)
Suitings and mantlings
Soft furnishings of:
cotton, synth.
Acella (plastics)
artif. leather, canvas
Decorative seams
RNm9O—100
A Nm 80—90 for sateen
and tafetas Nm 70—80
Cotton 40—60
Silk 110 or cotton 40—60
Synth. 60—70 depend.
or silk 40—60
A Nm 80—100
A Nm 80—100
A Nm 80-1 00
Cotton 40—50 or silk 80-1 00
merc, cotton 60—80
synth. 120
Cotton 60
A
A
A
A
Buttonhole silk 40 3
A Nm 100—110
Nm
Nm
Nm
Nm
90—100
80
70—80
80—90
Snap-on presser foot
The presser foot No. 383, which accompanies the
machine, is applied for straight seams, zig-zag and a lot
of other utility seams. As you can see, it offers different
notches, sewing could be done accordingly. In case the
seam should be abt. 7 mm in width (l/4), let the material
run at the outer edge of presser foot, for straight seam.
Lia), and
5
The next step offers a seam of 4 mm of width (
the step inwards a seam allowance of 2 mm.
Changing the snap-on presser foot
The presser feet, which accompany the machine, have the
form of loose soles, which are held in place on the
presser foot ‘ankle’ by a spring. If you whish to change
the presser foot, turn the handwheel towards you,
until the needle is in its highest position. FRemove the
presser foot by drawing it towards you, while pressing
it slightly downwards.
Slide the new presser foot over the front edge of the
ankle bracket as shown in the illustration. There is a spring
on the lower end of the ankle bracket. Slide on the
presser foot so that the round transverse pin on the
presser foot fits into the space between the bracket and
the spring. Then press slightly backward and downward
and the presser foot will snap into the correct
position.
Sewing foot for zippers
The sewing foot for zippers 989 is set in quite the same
way than the ordinary sewing foot.
The construction of this presser foot renders it possible
by either inserting it right or left of the needle to sew
both sides of the zipper without turning the material.
See page 20.
Changing the presser foot “ankle”
Certain presser feet cannot be constructed as loose soles
and then the ankle bracket must also be changed.
Make sure that the needle is in its highest position. Then
loosen the retaining screw at the left and take off the
presser foot.
Changing the needle
For changing the needle, loosen oval needle clamp screw.
When inserting a Fresh needie, Flat side backwards up
to its highest position, then tighten screw again.
Only use needle system 130 705.
Setting the stitchlength
can easHy be done by the stitch regulating button.
1 means shortest stitchlength, 5 largest. The stitchlength
area for the buttonhole is marked separately.
For reverse sewing, press lever at the right of the
stitchlength button, then the machine sews forward and
reverse in same stitchlength as formerly set.
When releasing this lever, the machine immediately
sews Forward in same stitchlength.
11
Machine does not properly feed the fabric:
Maintenance hints
in most cases poor sewrng results are due to a blunt
or damaged needle. Therefore always examine the needle
first before taking any other action.
Feed dog might be lowered: raise it by pressing the feed
dog lowering button upward.
Stitchlength regulating button is on 0: set from 1 to 5.
The seam is not neat:
Unattractive stitches
—
unattractive seams:
The needle, thread and fabric do not correspond
make sure that a needle system 7051130 is used. Needle
incorrectly inserted. Correct IS: flat side backward
and groove needle towards you.
—
Needle is bent or blunt: take a new needle.
Needle does not correspond to thread: care for
table page 10.
Thread tension is incorrect: adjust thread tension (page 15).
Wrong thread in machine: upper thread should be equal
or somewhat thicker than lower thread.
Bobbin case incorrectly threaded: test per ill. page 7/8.
Put 1—2 drops of oil onto the hook in case of machines
with doble rotating hooks (page 12).
Bobbin is too full or irregular bobbin winding: adjust it and
not too full. Care that thread is wound correctly.
In case of fabric puckering with wide seam: locsen upperand lower thread tension or put fine silk paper under
the fabric.
Thread breaks:
The thread may be too tightly tensioned: readjust tension.
Incorrectly threaded: thread per ill. page 9.
Thread may be entangled or jammed: set It free,
Needle eye may have too sharp edges: change needle.
Machine runs sluggishly:
Drive-belt too tight or too loose: correct it.
Machine is dry: oil it.
Oil is hard: place machine in a warm room.
Oil is viscous: put some petroleum on the oiling spots and
let machine run at high speed for a short time.
Dirt or lint have got into the shuttle: take out the bobbin
and bobbin case and brush clean with special brush,
the shuttle itself too, see page 13.
Bobbin winder is engaged: disengage it.
14
Foot control of motor runs hot:
The electric resistor has been under tension for a too
long period: take your foot completely off the pedal
for a while.
Care of machine
The points marked with
an arrow must be
oiled from time to time.
depending on daily or
weekly handling of the
machine with 2—3 drops
best sewing machine oil
(free of acid and resin).
Cleaning of hook
Compact sock’t and flatbed machine with central
hook
Take off bobbin case mentioned in para “hook”.
Turn flywheel until the needle is in its highest
position. Take bobbin case f on the left small flap
and take it off by thumb and forefinger of the left
hand. Then turn off bare, cover b and hook a.
Clean shuttle race with a soft cloth and put 2 drops
of oil into it. For remounting, proceed from a, b, e,
but without force.
Freearm and flatbed sewing machine with doble
rotating hook
Take off bobbin case as mentioned in para hook”
and put clean petroleum into the hook. Then
clean it with smooth cloth.
Doble rotating hook
Central hook
Some general hints for starting sewing
It is always wise to try a tension test on the fabric you are using before beginning
to sew. To do this, fold an off Cut of the fabr;c in half and sew straight seam in the
direction of the grain; the 2 threads should lock between the 2 layers of fabrics. If the
lower thread lies along the underneath of the seam pulling the top thread through.
the top tension is too loose and should be set on a higher number. When turning the
regulating button cpl. to 5, things will changeand now the upper thread is straight
and the lower thread forms loops. The correct tension is reached, when the
seams between both layers form knots.
Lower thread tension
It is often enough to correct the upper thread tension.
New setting of lower thread tension is only
When newly setting the lower thread tension, take the
screwdriver off the accessories tray and turn the larger
screw by ho quarter. To the left, in case thread is too tight
turn to the right, when it is too loose.
-
necessary exceptionally.
With straightstitch
With zig-zag
wrong
wrong
wrong
right
right
15
b.
..
b
Let the machine feed the fabric. Only guide the fabric
towards the presser foot. When sewing very thick seams,
you can assist the machine by releasing the pressure
on the presser foot and gently leading the material
forward.
When turning a corner, stop with the needle down in the
fabric. This also applies when stopping the machine
in order to rearrange the work.
Always start a straight seam by turnrng the handwheel
towards you so that the needle enters the seam line, then
lower the presser foot. (When sewing zig-zag and other
stitches, it s easier to lower the presser foot over the
center of the seam, then lower the needle). When sewing
on thin and soft fabrics, start the seam abt. ¼’ from
the edge of the fabric to prevent it from being pulled down
into the needle hole of the throat plate. If you wish to
extend the seam out to the very edge of the fabric, sew
a few reverse stitches and then hold the thread behind the
presser foot when sewing forward again. Start the
machine gently and increase the speed gradually. Watch
the presser foot to ensure that it follows an edge or a
don’t watch the needle!
seam
—
The best way to hold the fabricas illustrated. The left hand
rests lightly on the fabric and helping to guide it
forward, the right hand holding the edge of the fabric.
16
For sewing the foot
lever at the back of the
machine is always
‘owered.
This is necessary with
sewing work without foot
too, since, when lowering
the foot lever, upper
thread tension is set.
Lock the seam ends by
pressing the reverse
button, making the
machine sew backwards.
This prevents stitches
coming undone. When
sewing zig-zag stitches,
lock the seam end by
sewing a few stitches
lowered.
Utility- and decorative
seams can by locked by
pulling the thread to the
back and knotting them
by hand.
.
-
Before removing the fabric, the machine should have
fully completed the last stitch with the thread take-up
lever in its highest position. Pull the threads away from
you and cut them. Leave at least 6” (15 cm) of thread in
the needle so that it will not be drawn out of the eye
of the needle when the next seam is started.
Hemming the edges
WWM
There are different possibilities, here the
modern utility seams are very easy to learn
and to sew.
Sewing foot 383, stitchlength 5, the seam can
be done by the following stitches:
zig-zag wide
Hemming with zig-zag
btindstitch
overlock seam
Hemming with blindstitch
Attaching 2 layers by simultaneously
hemming with blindstitch
Hemming with featherseam
18
AAAA/\
Place the two layers under presser foot, so
that the needle scarcely penetrates at the
right over the edge of fabric and at the
left ab. Ye’.
With a utility seams machine two layers can
be attached by simultaneously hemming
the edges. Here you apply the wide invisible
seam, stitchlength 1,5—2.
Place one layer upon another so that the cut
edge points to the left and the needle in
its extreme left position will only just catch
the outer edge.
Shell seam with
simultaneously attached
decorative thread
Sewing foot 383, wide blindstitch,
stitchlength 3. Fold cloth along
the edge and place it to the left
under presser foot. At the outer
edge, an additional thread can be
guided to be seized with every
6th stitch, i.e. with the blindhem.
Here the edge of material forms
small shells, depending on kind of
material.
Patching
in strong material
Sewing foot 383 zig-zag center, short stitchlength.
The patch must be slightly larger than the damaged area so that the first zig-zag
seam sews over the edge of the patch. When turning the fabric, leave
needle in the fabric in order to securely sew the corner.
Then place second seam beside the first one and cut out the danaged area.
with elastic materials
either apply elastic stabile seam (lockstitch zig-zag)
or hag seam.
Stitchtength 1—2. Sewing foot 383.
The patch must be slightly larger than the damaged area and resewn by one of the
above seams so that the following seam goes over the edge of the affixed patch
directly to the original fabric. After resewn, cut out damaged fabric from the
left directly along the seam.
17
I
Assembling garments
For assembling garments, i. e. for joining pieces of fabrics,
the ordinary straightstitch is no longer the only choice.
Many modern fabncs require stronger and more
stretchable stiches like the elastic straightstitch or elastic
overlock.
Here are some suggestions fcr obtaining attractive seams:
With straightstitch: 3 is the normal stitchlength, but the
structure and weave of different fabrics might require
different length adjustments so that the stitches will blend
attractively into the weave of the fabric. Use shorter
stitches for thin fabric, but remember that excessively
short stitches give a puckered seam and excessively long
stiches a loose seam.
With elastic straightstitch = triple safety-seam: Use a
rather fine thread, preferably embroidery cotton or
synthetic thread.
Helpful hint: Baste the seams with ordinary straightstitch,
stitchlenght 4 with thread of same color as the fabric.
When you have tried on the garment, you can fill in” the
seams with elastic straight stitch. It will not be necessary
to remove the basting thread, if you sew exactly along the
basted seam.
With the elastic knit stitch you can sew and overcast at
”
4
the same time. The seam allowance can be less than V
although you can cut out the garment with a wider seam
allowance, sew the seam with the knit stitch (remember
that the left end of the knit stitch should follow the seam
marking) and then trim the remaining seam allowance
along the stitching, as shown.
AAAA/\
181
d
Sewing knitteds
Some hints for sewing knitteds: Use the knit stitch
the elastic straightstitch. The elastic overlock seam is
quite of same function than the overlock seam of
garment industry. Use thin sewing thread, synth. thread
or embroidery cotton. Apply a roller sewing foot.
since an ordinary sewing foot catches in the loops of the
knitting.
Tricot seam
Place needle in ts highest position.
Seams selector on symbol
Stitchlenght wheel on 1—2.
With this seam you simultaneously join 2 layers and
overcast, e. g. in knitted fabrics and stretch. This seam
is used for patching of seams in underdresses, tricots
and knitted garments.
Top stitching
You can do top stitching and decorative stitching with
ordinary straightstitch, the elastic straightstitch
or the decorative stitch. The elastic straightstitch can be
used for attractive stitching in all fabrics, but is
especially suitabe for top stitching in knits.
When top stitching with buttonhole twist thread, you will
need a needle corresponding in size to the thread,
a 100—110. It will consequently make rather large holes
in the fabric.
Another way of obtaining prominent stitching is to
thread two strands in the same needle.
Parallel rows of decorative stitching can be sewn with
a twin needle.
18 II
Elastic straightstitch
Sewing knit and stretch fabrics
These types of fabric account for well over 50% of all
garments made. Common to all of them is that they
stretch and therefore require an elastic seam, such as the
elastic straightstitch, knit stitch or the elastic blind hem,
all available on your sewing machine.
Use fine thread, preferable embroidery cotton or
synth. thread. After selecting the elastic straightstitch
it is possible to make slight adjustments to the
stitchlengths. In case the fabric is very elastic, the upper
thread tension can be loosened somewhat for knits
with a higher degree of stretch.
-
Helpful hint: Baste the seams with ordinary straightstitch,
stitchlength 4 and thread the same color as the fabric.
When you have tried on the garment, you can ‘fill in the
seams with an elastic straight seam. It is not necessary
to remove the basting thread if you sew exactly along
the basted seam.
You can use the elastic straightstitch for decorative
top stitching as well. It may be desirable to loosen the
upper thread tension a little.
For sharper creases in trousers etc. in doble knits you
can sew them with a twin needle using elastic
straightstitch. Use the raised seam presser foot and the
gimp guide, but do not use a gimp thread. Sew the
trouser creases before joining the side and inner leg
seams.
Elastic
straightstitch
Triple ric-rac
Top stitching
The most suitable stitches to use when assembling
a knitted fabric garment are the elastic straightstitch
or the knit stitch. Elastic straightstitch is used when
you want seam allowances pressed open. The knit stitch
sews the parts together and finishes the seam
allowance in one operation. Here a fine and proper
needle (70—80) is needed.
18111
The wide elastic seam
for stockinets and modern garments
Sewing foot 383, hag seam, sewing program zig-zag center
width 5.
Baste the seam according to desired width (without
allowance). Seam is made abt. /o of the inner edge of
seam, e, g. that the large zig-zag stitches Qoint to the
outer edge. Cut out the overlapping edge closely to the
seam.
XxW
Triple ric-rac
Knit stitch
Use fine thread, embroidery cotton or synth. thread.
After selecting the knit stitch you are free to adjust the
stitchlength and the stitchwidth.
Knit stitch seam allowances are abt. ‘/“. Of course,
the garment may be cut out using a pattern, which calls
8
for a wider S/
seam allowance. In this case, make
sure that the lefthand edge of the knit stitch follows the
seam line. Then trim away the surplus allowance.
Also use the knit stitch for sewing on collars, cuffs, flaps,
pockets, belt loops, etc. Facings can also be sewn on
with the knit stitch.
AAAAA
Many doble knits do not require overcasting, but when
necessary use the three-step zig-zag. Test by pulling along
the edge of a scrap of material and see, whether it frays
or if “runners” are formed.
‘
A,
s
%
1
V
l\
,1
1
A
%1
l
1
Stretch fabrics
Stretch fabrics are woven garments, which will be made
elastic account to different operations. They can be
elastic in length- or square direction of layer or in both
directions and principally will be sewn especially
as mentioned under “knitteds”.
18 IV
Sewing terry cloth
Terry cloth s rather loosely woven fabric, in which seams
easily break and where hems are frequently thick and
clumsy. Here are a few suggestions for getting the best
results when sewing in terry cloth.
When overcasting proceed as follows: Sew the garment
together leaving I8” to Ia” seam allowance. Trim the
seams so that they do not fray. Fold back the seam
allowances and sew the edges down against the garment
with three-step zig-zag. Even though the stitching
goes right through to the ‘right” side of the garment.
it is almost invisible.
If you wish to reinforce the seam even further, you can,
after sewing and overcasting as described above,
turn the garment “right’ side Cut and from the “right” side,
sew a three-step zig-zag along the center of the joining
seam.
The overlapping seam will be very flexble, but not quite
as durable as the previous reinforced seam. Lap seam
allowances one over the other, matching seam lines.
Sew over both edges together against the garment with
three-step zig-zag, once from the “right’ side and the
second time from the wrong side. Suitable for shoulder
seams, piecing of the reverse side of collar. etc.
When hemming terry cloth garments, it is only necessary
to turn the hem once and sew with three-step zig-zag.
This gives a smooth and flexible hem.
Neck lines and armholes are finished in a similar manner.
Turn the hem once and sew down with three-step zig-zag.
19
Sewing in zippers
Zipper under the left-hand edge
of the opening
Keep the zipper closed. Baste the
opening together by machine using
long stitches and loose top thread
3/4
open at
tension. Leave at least
the top. Put on the zipper presser
foot so that it is to the left of the
needle. Fold the rear seam allowance
/a from the basted seam and sew
it to the right-hand edge of the zipper
with the work reverse and sewing
from the bottom upwards. Stop the
machine with the needle down in the
from the end of the
fabric abt.
seam and lift the presser foot, now
open the zipper so that the slide
is the back of the needle, lower the
presser foot and finish the seam.
Turn the presser foot so that it is to
the right of the needle. Turn the
garment and sew on the other side
of the zipper on the right side.
Begin with a cross seam at the
lower edge and then sew from the
bottom upwards. Remove the
basting.
Zipper under the center
of the opening
Baste the opening together by
machine with long stitches and loose
top tension. Leave abt. 3/4 open
at the top of the opening. Press the
seam open and baste the zipper
under the seam by hand. Change to
the zipper presser foot putting it to
the left of the needle.
20
Turn presser foot so that it is at the right of the needle.
Start by sewing the seam across the bottom to join
the two long seams. Then sew the right side the same as
the left. Remove the basting.
Roller sewing foot
The roller sewing foot 901 is needed for rough-knitted
garments and certain knitteds and stretch fabrics as well
as leather imitations and plastics. Thechannelied rolls
render possible a better feed of these fabrics. It could be
necessary to separately adjust the pressure foot stroke
in order to reach the desired results.
L
Sew the left-hand edge from the bottom upwards, leaving
the zipper closed. Before the seam is finished, stop with
the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot,
open the zipper so that the slide is at the back of the
needle, lower presser foot and finish the seam.
21
Ruffling of fabrics
Sewing foot 383, upper thread sewing silk or sewing
thread 60, upper thread tension looser than generally.
sewing thread 40.
Lower thread
—
A
V
22
SI
,I
A
iI
V
sf
1st possibility:
The cloth to be ruffled is sewn by straighfstitch.
It is possible to make some seams one beside the other.
Pull the lower threads to desired width and tie them.
2nd possibility:
Ruffler 1-655. stitchlength 4—5.
Sew material as usual. Owing to special operation
of ruffler, material automatically ruffles. If one layer is to
be ruffled and another one shall remain flat, the latter
one must be inserted into the slot of the ruffter and the
first one must be laid underneath (see ill.).
3rd possibility:
Ruffling with flat elastic.
Sewing foot 383, special sewing program elastic seam.
Stitchlength 2.
Place the elastic on the material and stretch it both in
front of and behind the presser foot. The more the elastic
is stretched, the more the fabric is ruffled. Perhaps try at
a sample piece in order to receive the correct stretch.
Darning
After loosening of
fixing screw take
off sewing foot
shank. Then screw
on universal darner
sothatthe
moveable lever is
over the needle
hoider screw and
will be lifted
with each seam. (see ill.)
Cut out the area to be sewn rectangularly and resew properly with straight stitches.
Now lower feed dog (keep needle on straight stitch center) and hold material with both
bands so that it is smoothly tightened. Then guide material from left to right and
sew one seam beside the other (ill. b). Thus the hole is ready in one direction,
make the material glide forward and reverse and again place one seam beside the
other (ill. c). In order to avoid drawing together of the weaving, the material could
be placed into an embroidery frame, this is, however, not necessary with our
universal darner.
For darning of linen we recommend sewing silk 50 or 60, needle 70 or 80.
,,.‘..,.,
Darning of tears—weaving darning
Sewing foot 383, elastic or large zig-zag seam, stitchlength between 0—i.
When darning an angle tear, pay attention that both parts closely join. Then connect
these layers by various seams one beside the other as per ill. Take care that the
seams nicely mesh. Should the torn material be porous, undersew another material,
thus the darned area will be more sturdy and durable.
Wool darning for knitwear and terry cloth
lowered feed dog.
Darner 1-682, straightstitch, stitch(ength 0
1st operation: Lead the darning thread into the opening of the foot and attach it by
some stitches onto the material to be darned. Now start sewing by leading
the thread in diagonal directioe as per ill, a on page 23 over the area to be darned
and fix it at the left and at the right beside the damaged area. Place one thread closely
to the other, until the damaged area is covered.
2nd operation: When the damaged area is full of wool, sew the complete area with
an elastic zig-zag seam, but in opposed direction so that the wool threads done
by the first operation cannot move against each other.
=
23
Monograms
Depending on fabric, monograms can either be sewn with ort without embroidery
frame. When using thin cloth, draw monograms on the cloth and put it dead
straight into the frame Sewing thread. embroidery thread 40—60, zig-zag width
depending on size of letters. Lower feed dog. Remove presser foot and put cloth
under the needle. Lower foot lever By turning the handwheel, take up lower
thread and retain both threads. Then guide cloth according to design by running
the machine not too slowly. While sewing, move the frame following the design.
Using thicker fabrics, the embroidery frame is not necessary, but then retain
the material with both hands by using the universal darner 1-682.
The same concerns fancy patterns.
Applique
Sewing foot 395, stitchwidth narrow, stitchlength 1,5.
F;rstly design pattern on the left side of cloth and baste the materia to be used for
applique on the surface Right side at the bottom, place fabric under sewing
machine and sew from left along the design by using a zig-zag not too narrow. Then
cut off basting stitches and carefully cut away beside the seam the overlapping
material. Sew the Cut edges, closely one beside the other, by a tight
covering zig-zag seam. For a nicer border, you can use an additional cording
thread, leading from top into the hole of the cording foot.
-
-
__;_—
-
-4
b:
-
-
Hem stitches
Here you need a special hemstitching needle.
Zig-zag hinged presser foot 383.
Zig-zag needle position center or utility- resp. decorative
seam. Stitchlength 2-3.
For hemstitching you need an especially suitable fabric,
i. e. organza. Do the first seam with the wing needle.
By each penetration this needle expands the web threads
of material by bunching them. At the end of the seam lift
presser foot and turn material. Start again with needle
penetration in the hole made before, thus the same hem is
sewn once more in reverse direction. Care that the
second penetration is made strictly into the holes of the
preceeding seam. Thus various hemstitches can be done.
one beside the other. An especially nice effect is obtained
9 antihty- or decorative seam instead of simple
by USifl
zig-zag.
25
a
J4
-
—
—
Inserting laces
.
Sewing foot 383
This work is done by two different procedures. Attach the lace at both edges onto
the flat cloth with straightstitch. Then cut off the material on the back in
the middle of both seams fold it to both sides and iron ouL Then oversew the lace
edges on both sides by small zig-zag and short stitchlength. Thus you obtain
a solid but elastic connection. Finally cut off the overlapping cloth on the
back along the seam.
Attaching laces
Sewing foot 383, small zig-zag stitch, stitchlength 2—3.
When using strong material like linen etc., scarcely iron the edge to the left
e and make it run under the sewing foot, with right side of material
abt. 31
above., beside the lace, attach both by zig-zag seam. After sewing is done, Cut
the overlapping material.
26
off
Eyeletting stitches
The eyeietting equipment is special accessory. You need cover plates with strong
bolts to be placed onto the needle plate, also an embroidery loop and a graver.
For doing eyeletting stitches, remove presser foot, lower feed dog and set (as far as
available needle position left) the large zigzag. Puncture the material on the
spot the embroidery should be effected. Stretch material in a frame and perforate
1/4
by the graver according to the size. Place eyeletting
holes by /o, 3/4, 1/8 or
plates on the needle plate on the material with the hole and with the bolt.
Use sewing silk 50, white or colored, upper thread tension looser than lower
tension. Lower presser foot lever and get upper thread by turning the handwheel.
Then set zig-zag in desired width and do some stitches by turning the loop to
the right and retain the edges of thread. Now cut them off. Then go on by rotating
the loop slowly for doing a corona of stitches as close as possible. When the
circle is completed, lock the thread by some straight stitches. For doble embroidery
holes, first do an equal corona of stitches with narrow zig-zag, then adjust a wide
zig-zag and have the machine run slower by quicker turning of the frame.
S
Using an eyelet plate
is different with the various machine models. Below description of the three
possibilities:
I
C
D
With compact socket and flatbed machine lower feed dog. Use eyeletting plate,
you can buy as special acessories and align it with catches A and B as per ill, into
the slots for feed dog on the needle plate. Now press eyeletting plate in direction of
arrow and press catch C into the provided window of the plate. For removing the
eyeletting plate, lift it at the spot D by means of scissors or similar tool until
the catch C appears, then the eyeletting plate can easily be removed
contrary to arrow’s direction.
27
With freearm machine push part A as per II. under the eyetetting plate and press it
on the needle plate so that catch B engages. In order to remove the eyeletting
plate, it is necessary to lift it by means of scissors or similar tool as shown at the
left and pull in direction of arrow.
Pipings (pin tuckings)
Pipings are very popular on dresses, blouses and coats. They are sewn in flat
fabric with doble needle resp. with two upper threads in one and the same
operation. Here the socalled twin needle is used instead of the ordinary needle.
This can be made with all machine models. When threading is made, guide
one thread each over the tension disc, takeup lever and eyelets of the needle
holder. Take care that the threads do not twist.
Depending on fabric’s thickness choice the sewing foot and needle distance
of twin needle,
In order to get a very decorative, nice raised seam, use of a socalled ‘piping
finger” is recommended, here an additional thread runs through and it is
undersewn on the wrong side of fabric.
Use a twin needle No. 90—2,8 mm, piping foot No. 389 and piping finger.
Straightstitch, stitchlength 3—4.
28
j I II
Settingthepipingplate
is different with the various models. Below a description of the three
possibilities.
With flatbed and compact socket machine
on
Insert catch A in the opening provided and glide the piping plate in directi
for
slots
the
into
pressed
be
can
and
C
s
B
catche
the
until
of arrow,
feed dog into the needle plate.
s
For removing the piping plate, slightly lift D by scissors so that the catche
s
you.
ed
toward
remov
be
can
A
catch
then
free,
are
B and C
The ill, besides shows the running of additional thread. At the bottom of D the
piping plate has a passage for taking and exactly guiding the thread.
29
Marking
Marking foot 931, large zig-zag seam center, stitchlength abt. 5.
Loosen upper thread tension so that nice loose loops will be sewn. After
finishing do not forget to readjust tension. It is important to always lead
thread laterally under presser foot.
easy to transmit a pattern
By using the above marking foot it is very
cloth.
to the
and
Fold the cloth in two layers and place it as mirrorimage under the pattern
nging.
disarra
a
avoid
to
in
order
,
pattern
and
smoothly baste cloth
While sewing, wide loops are formed. Cut these off between both layers,
then the rest of thread remains in the cloth, offering you the desired
marking (see ill).
Basting
For firstly fitting on dresses, blouses etc. you desire a loose basting seam.
Here use the marking foot 931. Upper thread tension very tight so that
n center,
loose loops will be formed. Adjust narrow zig-zag and needle positio
can
which
seam,
basting
largest stitchlength. Thus you get a loose
easily be ripped.
Blind hemming
You will find the blindstitching presser foot No, 331 in the
accessory box. Attach it in the same way as the regular
presser foot.
Snce the different fabrics are of different thickness, the
sewing foot could be removed to both sides so that the
guide B at the lower side of presser foot can be adjusted,
since the latter foot is adapted to thickness of fabric.
Position of sewing foot can be changed by turning
reverse—the roll A.
forward
thin fabrics, the roll is turned to—, when
sewing
When
Test the correct setting.
sewint thick fabrics, turn to
When sewing, fold fabric as shown in the sketch.
-
—.
Make sure that the folded edge at the guide B runs at
under side of the presser foot.
With the invisible seam e.g. skirts are sewn without the
seam appearing at the front of the fabric. The seam
consists of small straight stitches and large zig-zag ones.
.
With freearm machine
finger
Push tongue A under needle plate in direction of arrow, Press piping
piping
raise
y
slightl
e,
remov
To
s.
engage
B
catch
that
so
plate
on the needle
s
toward
plate
e
finger by scissors at C, until catch B appears. Remov
you, contrary to arrow.
h
The additional thread needed for sewing raised seams is guided throug
the finger of the piping plate as shown.
Programmed decorative seams
e can also be
The programmed utility- and decorative seams on your machin
.
ideries
applied for flat embro
and sew at narrow
Adjust the desired decorative seam, sewing foot 383 or 512,
together and
close
seams
tive
decora
nt
differe
ning
combi
stitchlength. By
wide
or
embroidery of colored tapes or cords, very nice narrow
decorative stripes and edges can be achieved.
Some basic hints:
tension looser
When doing embroideries, flat embroideries etc., upper therad
at the under
done
is
threads
of
g
knottin
case
any
in
that
than lower thread so
lly sewing
especia
end
recomm
we
,
ideries
embro
doing
When
side of fabric.
.
machine- or darning thread as well as gold or silver threads
Decorative seams with twin needles
. Here use
Very attractive fancy patterns can be sewn by using a twin needle
!32 to /o by adjusting the
e
distanc
needle
narrow
with
a twin needle
penetration
stitch width somewhat narrow so that the needle in its lateral
plate.
needle
the
to
nor
foot
can neither come up to the sewing
different
Very effective decorative seams can be done by combining two
colors of thread.
30
Sewing of buttonhole
Buttonhole foot 371, stitchlength depending on fabric
0,5—i ,0 (buttonhole symbol). Embroidery cotton
50—60 or sewing silk.
A particularly nice effect is obtained by the use of
additional thread to be placed beneath the right groove
of the buttonhole foot.
At the end leave the needle
at the right. Lift foot and
turn fabric clockwise. The
additional thread must go
around the needle, lower
foot, needle lifted.
With program 2 sew the
first row.
•
r
34
IJ
111
Lift needle and do the second
row with program 2.
11
4
2
At the end lift needle and do
4—5 barring stitches by
program 4, retain fabric,
5
With program 4 do 4—5 barring stitches by retaining the
material so that the bar will
not become too long.
3
Then lift needle and do
some locking stitches by
program 5. At the end cut off
additional thread and cut
open the buttonhole with
seam ripper.
6
With your new sewing machine the following
standard accessory is included:
—
buttonhol
foot
1-641
oil pan
sewing foot 383
on machine
-
ri
blind sewing foot
MN 5051 228 1
seamripper for cutting off
buttonholes, for separating seams
I:
screwd river
decorative
sewing foot
MN 5051 51221
screwdriwe0z
0
1 ass, of needles syst. 705/130
1 ij
S bobbins
(°O)
for flatbed and compact
No. 1-260
for freearm No. 330-252
roller foot for leather
and plastics
MN 5051 901 1
0
70
80 80
90 SQ
darner 1-682
zipper foot
and edger
MN 5051 989 1
35
______________
ssories
For your sewing machine the following special acce
is available
hemmer
eyeletting plate
I set = 3 pcs.
hole 0
02,8= No.111 HgSl
0 4,0 No. 111 Hg 52
0 6,0 = No. 111 Hg 53
for flatbed
and compact
models
eyeletting plate
lset=3pcs.
hole 0
51
0 2,8 No. 360 Hg
0 4,0 = No. 360 Hg 52
0 6,0 = No. 360 Hg 53
for freearm
mode!s
sewing foot
for decorative seams
MN 5051 391 1
““‘I
j
MN 5051 3841
piping loot with
3 grooves
MN50513891
straight seams
-
hemmer
5/as’,
MN50513871
for zig zag
piping toot
with I groove
MN 5051 388 1
_______
marking foot
piping finger
No. 70—414
for flatbed
and compact
models
MN50519311
shell hemmer
MN 5051 386 1
for zig-zag seam
and soft fabrics
fJ
piping finger
No. 250—476
for freearm
models
rt’ffler
(with shank)
1—655
hemmer
/16”
MN 5051 385 1
for straight seams
©
embroidery frame
023 1
-
MN 5053 732 1
sewing foot
for nylon
MN 5051 988 1
2
r°
28
Frame
MN 5053 398 1
I
1
L
36
*!I
slide plate
for sewing foot
MN 50538661
twin needles
set = 3 pcs.
1,8 mm =
=
2 mm
4 mm = /32”
MN 50536211
sewing foot for
especially fine
seams in thin
fabrics
MN 5051 394 1
\
U)
32
(S/
MN 5053 3982
(5”)
graver 1—-496
Alphabetical index
Accessories
Applique
Arched seam
Attaching elastic bands
Attaching two layersis
Basting
Blindstitching
Buttonholes
Changing the sewing foot
Cleaning
Darning
Darning angles and tears
Decorative seams
Decorative seams
hints
D:sturbanceS
Edge hemming
Elastic seams
Eyeletting stitches
Feed of material
Hem stitching
Hook
Inserting zippers
Invisible seam
—
.
.
35,36
25
3
22
18
24
33
34
12
13
23
23
3/19
3 4 29
14
32
27
27
9
18
7/8
20
33
.
Knitteds
Lace hemming
Lace inserting
Linen seam
Lower thread
Maintenance
Marking
Monograms
Oiling Spots
Placing the needle
Patching
Patching
in strong material
—in strong material
in elastic material
—inelasticmaterial
Pipings
Power connection
Rolled seam
Ruffling
Scolloped seam
Sewing on hooks
Sewing light
—
—
18
26
26
32
8,915
13
24
25
13
11
17
17/18
17
17/18
17
17/18
28
6
32
22
6
24
6
Sewing on buttons
Sewing of leather
Sewing terry cloth
Sewn seams
Shell hem
Shell hem with decor. thread
Stitchlength
Stockinets
.
Straingt-on seam
in strong material
in elastic material
Stretch seam
Table on thread
Thickness of needle
Threading
Thread tension
Utility seam
Utility seam
Weaving darning
Wool darning
Zig-zag sewing
Zig-zag sewing
—
—
30
21
19
18
32
18
11
18
2
4
4/18
10
10
9
15
3
3.4
23
23
2
1/2
t*AIt4
Hemmers
You will find a hemmer useful when sewing long hems in
fabrics, which are not excessively thick. There are
hemmers for 2 mm No. 384 (J6”) and 5 mm No. 385 (rio”)
as well as 2 mm (5 64) rolled hem No. 387. and 3 mm
(1I)
shell stitch hem No. 386.
The edge to be hemmed should be trimmed and straight.
Fold over the edge twice for the o” hemmer. First fold
over a little less than i” and then again to bring it up to
approx. 16”. It is only necessary to fold in this manner
at the beginning of the hem, as the hemmer will take care
of the folding if you guide the fabric properly.
32
,,L;:
I
Insert the folded edge of the fabric into the hemmer so
that it is well under the presser foot. Lower the presser
loot. Sew a stitch where the hem starts. Hold the
loose end of the thread firmly to the rear of the presser
foot. Lift the hemmer in order to insert the edge of
the fabric in the funnel” of the hemmer.
Hold the fabric as shown in the illustration and let the
machine feed the fabric. If the edge of the fabric tends to
glide out of the hemmer, guide it slightly to the right.
If too much fabric enters the hemmer, pull it slightly
to the left.
Rolled hem, Foot No. 387. Instead of folding the hem when
starting, roll it and then insert it in the hemmer in the
same way. Sew with zig-zag, stitchlength abt. 2 and
stitchwidth 3 or slightly more. Make sure that the zig-zag
sews over the entire width of the hem. The upper
thread tension can be increased.
Shell hem, Foot No. 386. Is sewn with zig-zag and
increased upper thread tension. It is more suitable for thin
fabrics.
Turning corners with the hemmer is only possible on thin
fabrics. When the first edge has been hemmed,
remove the work from the machine. Fold the fabric in the
same way as before, but cut off the corner so that it
will not be too thick.
Sewing on buttons
Remove presser foot, ankle.
Place button on the fabric and lower feed dog, the presser
foot ankle thus maintains the button.
Lower feed dog (so that stitchtength is unimportant),
stitchwidth on needle position left, according to
hole distance of the button to be sewn.
With an up-to-date zig-zag sewing machine all buttons
with 2, 3 or 4 holes can be sewn with a hole distance of
4 mm (‘/o”), The button is thus put onto the cloth, then both
under the sewing foot so that the needle penetrates
at the right and left in one hole each, the stitchwidth to be
adjusted try preferably by moving the needle at
slow turning of flywheel.
When the correct needle penetration width is found,
attach button by 8—1Osttches. In case of 4-hole-buttons,
sew the remaining two holes as described above.
Finally, set straightstitch, needle position left and do
some locking stitches.
When sewing is finished, do not forget adjusting Feed
dog on sewing position.
Button reed
When sewing buttons on garments, a stem’ is often
desired so that the button stands slightly away from the
fabric. Here you can use the button reed 732. Use
the thin end when sewing buttons on thin fabrics, the
thick end for heavier fabrics.
Mark the place where the button is to be sewn and place
the garment under the bracket without lowering the
presser bar. Insert the button reed as shown in the ill.
with the marking in the center of the opening. Place the
button on top and lower the presser bar. Then
tighten the button as described above.
Attaching hooks and eyelets same as above.
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