A guide to the various types of cue tips and tools on the market today, & how to fit them professionally The basic job of a tip is crucial - it is the link between your actions and the results - It’s the cue sports equivalent of car tyres! You can have a nasty cue with a good tip and play well, but a fantastic cue with a weak tip will never be any good. I know of people who have sold £500 handmade cues thinking that they were no good for them, when in reality it was probably just a duff tip! Written by Andrew Ramsay © Design by www.digbyfox.com Types and makes of tips There are two basic types of tip, pressed and laminated. A pressed tip is shaped from a single piece of leather and is the traditional tip used for Snooker and 8 ball Pool. A laminated tip is made from layers of leather glued together. Here we see a pressed tip on the left and a layered tip on the right. Pressed tips There are many different makes of pressed tips with varying levels of quality ranging from the truly nasty Chinese made tips that come on cheap cues up to the Mike Wooldridge pressed tips at £2.50 each! For the purposes of this exercise I will stick to the tips you are likely to come across although there are many others that could be mentioned, Blue Velvets and Blue Knights for example, also please remember that the comments are only my personal opinion, although I do have some experience in the matter! Tweeten’s Elk Master Tips – definitely the most common and most popular tip and if you get a good one they are capable of producing the full range of shots required Written by Andrew Ramsay © for the British games, however they are also the softest tips and wear out pretty fast if you play a lot. Very good tips for people who use a lot of screw or side in their game. You quickly get good at tip fitting if you use these, both because of the fast wear times and also 75% of them don't feel right when you play. Also beware of fakes, there are plenty out there these days so check carefully whom you are buying them from. Brunswick Blue Diamond Tips – great tips if you find a good one and nightmarish if you don't, for many years these were the benchmark tips for the British games however the quality is not what it once was and I personally don't think they are worth the extra money over the Elk Masters. Mike Wooldridge “Super Tips” – widely thought to be the best of the pressed tips and like having a good Elk Master every time. I have never heard of anyone with a bad word to say about these tips but they are very expensive for a pressed tip, as the saying goes: you get what you pay for! Design by www.digbyfox.com Laminated tips Laminated tips are tips that are made from two or more layers of leather glued together. There are advantages and disadvantages to using laminated tips: On the plus side, they tend to last much longer than pressed tips and they hold their shape much better so once you find one you like they play for ages. On the negative side they tend to be less able to hold chalk and much more expensive. Most people also feel that laminated tips are generally harder, so it is the softer makes that are popular in the UK. Production costs of laminated tips are much higher, so as a result so are the prices, however you do need to buy carefully because some makes are seriously expensive! Once again for the purposes of this exercise I have stuck to the tips that are popular in the UK, there are of course many others but most of them are far too hard. Talisman Tips – the Talisman Soft Pro is the best selling laminated tip in the UK by a nautical mile and like most people I would agree it is the best one. Striking a great balance between usability, reliability and afford-ability, this is the tip I use myself. Be warned about buying imported tips that are 14mm, they can split when fitted on our smaller ferrules, elsewhere in the world the medium tips and water buffalo tips are very popular but are too hard for most people here unless you like a very hard tip. Again beware of fakes, there are plenty out there these days so check whom you are buying them from. Written by Andrew Ramsay © Moori Tips - Probable the most expensive tip of all and one of the most difficult to fit properly, the trick is to hit thirty or forty shots in the middle of the fitting before your final shaping, this will have knocked out the initial compression you get with these tips, without a doubt the one to go for is the Generation Three Slow (soft tip) and its hard to argue that they’re not a very fine product. Hercules Tips – this is one of the few easy cross over tips designed for getting more side in the American pool game however they are soft enough for use in snooker, the H2 is the one to go for it is very similar to the Moori without the need to re-mortgage your house. Avoid the 23-layered version though as it's a bit like gluing a stone to the end of your cue! Mike Wooldridge “Layered Super Tips” – a fine product that I suspect Mike based on the Talisman Soft, although feels a bit harder when played in, good value for money compared with his superb pressed tips although some people might find the black layer under the tip a bit distracting, although it reminds me of using an antique cue and I feel adds a touch of class! At the moment if you are thinking of using one of these I suspect the Talisman is a better bet, although as Mike gets more feedback on them and perfects them they might well be the field leaders – watch this space! Design by www.digbyfox.com Tip Care Its very important that you don't play with a tip that is damaged or too small; the reasons for this are that firstly you will find it more difficult to play, secondly and more importantly, you run the risk of damaging your cue or even the table that you are playing on. The tip should never be smaller than the ferrule it is attached to and it should never be allowed to get so low that is does not cushion the impact of striking the cue ball. Always keep your tip well chalked during play as a lack of chalk can lead to misscues and potential damage of both the cue and the table. Tip Tools These days there are quite a few tools available on the market designed to help you maintain your tip to the highest standard either by shaping it or helping it to retain chalk by roughing the surface. These tools are mostly gimmicks because all you really need to maintain your tip to the highest standard is a needle file or a little piece of 250 grit or finer sandpaper, but we all like a toy so I will try and give you my opinion of the ones I have used. The Ultimate Tip Tool - these are very expensive but also very good, I must confess I use one myself, the problem is finding one because if you import one from the USA yourself they are too large to work properly and also designed to shape tips at 13mm. I also find that with the American versions the carbide paper is a little too rough. Tip Piks - these are very popular because they are handy to carry and effective, but they are far too effective in my opinion and tend to destroy the tip pretty fast although they do work well at first. They are also pretty expensive for what they are. Tip Files - these have been around a long time and work in as much as they do what they are made to do, however I think they are not a good tool at all and can damage your cue if you are not careful, I would most definitely rather go by eye with a bit of sandpaper! Tip Tappers - quite a good tool for people with harder tips and very easy to use but can be a little brutal if used too often. ...and now for how to fit them! Written by Andrew Ramsay © Design by www.digbyfox.com Tip Fitting What you will need: At some point all tips will wear down and need replacing, if you let the tip get too small the impact of each shot will exert too much force on the cue and you run the risk of damaging the cue, and also of course the shots will become harder as you have less tip to play with, I have seen many clubs where the house cues tips are wafer thin and personally I can't see the logic in that because the cues are both impossible to play with and will quickly be destroyed. It is a false economy not to change a worn tip whatever the quality of the cue. 1 A flat surface free of clutter and that you will not cry if you cut into it with a scalpel – The top of your new laptop is not the way to go (and yes I do know someone who did!). 2 A very sharp knife – I use a scalpel but a new craft knife will work just as well, the important thing is that it is REALLY sharp and clean. Some people think tip fitting is a dark art only to be performed by surgeons and people who do it for a living; this is of course absolutely true! Despite that many people do attempt to fit their own tips, with mixed results... what I am going to try and do here is describe in detail one way to do it that you should hopefully find simple and effective. As with everything to do with cues there are many other ways and the method described here is not how I do it! (I cut off the excess in one go with the scalpel but it takes a while to get that trick right and you will go through a lot of tips before you do!) Other people use a grinder or even a lathe although I suspect if you own a lathe big enough to do it you are not going to need advice on how to use it! 3 Very fine sandpaper, 250 grit or finer and / or a needle file. 4 Some strong but flexible glue i.e. 2 part Epoxy Resin or more commonly these days Gel Super glue, it has to be Gel Super glue other wise the glue will soak into the tip and make it brittle – I use Loctite Gel 3 in a nice and easy to use squeeze-able bottle on my own tips. The first thing is to be prepared and have all the equipment you need to hand; it really is much easier if you do! Written by Andrew Ramsay © 5 0000 wire wool. 6 A cloth to wipe off excess glue. 7 A £20 note – you will see! 8 A tip! Design by www.digbyfox.com The Method 1 Cut off the old tip with a scalpel (or if you are Ronnie O'Sullivan bite it off). Then I always destroy it to make sure I know which tip I was unhappy with... Once you have got it as flush as possible give it a quick clean and rough up with wire wool and it should look something like this: 3 ...many people fit used tips that are already played in, myself included, but there is not a lot of point in keeping one I know I don’t like! Lightly sand the bottom of the tip to be fitted by placing the sandpaper on a flat surface and scuffing, this is only to roughen the surface of the tip so don't overdo it or the tip will no longer be flat! 2 Remove any left glue or tip until the ferrule is perfectly flat – this is the most important stage in fitting a tip because if you don't get this right it is impossible to nicely fit a new one. Always fit a tip that is slightly larger than the ferrule you are fitting it to for the obvious reason that it is easy enough to trim it down to size but impossible to make it grow! 4 Take your time and strive for as smooth as glass and 100% flat! You can see in this photo the wafer this left over that has still to be removed. Written by Andrew Ramsay © Place tip on ferrule to make sure it will fit nicely when glued and then apply super glue gel or other bond to the tip and place it on the ferrule – these days Super Glue gel is the most common method of attaching a tip because it saves having to use a clamp and saves a lot of waiting! Note; as I said before it must be Gel Super Glue otherwise it will absorb into the tip and make it brittle. Design by www.digbyfox.com I use Loctite Gel 3 in the control bottle – I wonder if they will send me some for the advert! The easiest method to do this is to make lots of little cuts while rotating the cue because the neater the job the less filing or sanding you will have to do later! The more cuts and the smaller they are the neater the job will be. Wipe off any excess glue straight away with paper. 6 After lots of little cuts you should end up with something like this: 5 Leave the tip for a few minutes to be sure the glue is totally hard, then place the tip on a flat surface and trim away the over hang with a scalpel or craft knife. Make the first cut flush with the ferrule and then cut away the bulk of the overhang before your final trim. Written by Andrew Ramsay © 7 Next file or carefully sand the tip to your approximately desired shape. If you are using sandpaper it is important not to touch the shaft of you cue or you will ruin the finish. Design by www.digbyfox.com 8 Now burnish the edge of the tip with a £20 note or a piece of old leather – this will highlight any errors in the filing. 9 Then re-file or sand off any parts you are not happy with or that are not flush with the ferrule and re-burnish. 10 If you are happy with the overall look and shape of the tip then use the 0000 grade (ultra fine) wire wool to clean any scratches and glue marks from the ferrule. 11 The final tip should look something like this: Finally The business of tips is really a matter of trial and error so if you find either a tip you get on with or a method of fitting you like, stick with it because changing tips all the time will just distract you from the real reason you are missing all those sitters - which is that you don't practice enough! For any snooker cues, tips or equipment please feel free to e-mail me or take a look at my eBay shop... [email protected] Although the ultimate shape is a matter of personal taste, I like my tip to be flush with the ferrule, although some players prefer an overhang (mushroom shape) - Fergal O'Brien has a tip a full mm larger then the ferrule and by the looks of it Peter Ebdon is another fan of the oversized tip. Written by Andrew Ramsay © Copyright Andrew Ramsay. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction or translation of any part of this work by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, beyond that permitted by the Copyright Law, without the permission of the publisher is unlawful. If you choose to ignore this we will send the boys round. Design by www.digbyfox.com
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