INTERACTIVE DESIGN STUDY OF RANAGHAT GOLD & SILVER JEWELLERY CLUSTER CLUSTER LEVEL REPORT MSME DESIGN CLINIC SCHEME, 2012 Designed, Documented and Photographed by: Susmita Dutta Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 1 Dedicated This survey report is dedicated to all the efforts, the entrepreneurial spirit of the Ranaghat Silver & Gold artisans of Nadia, West Bengal. 2 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta About the Design Clinic Scheme Design Clinic Scheme for Design Expertise to MSMEs, a unique and ambitious design intervention scheme for the country’s large micro, small and medium scale enterprises, is an initiative of Ministry of MSME, Government of India has been launched under National Manufacturing Competitiveness programme. The scheme is being designed keeping in mind the objective of design awareness, design interventions and competitiveness improvement for largest group of industrial sectors, Micro, small and medium enterprises of the country which contributes to approximately 45% of total industrial production and 40% exports. They are major contributors to the GDP growth, accounting to about 8%. They are also the largest employers after agriculture, employing an estimated 41 million people. amount will be contributed by the beneficiary MSMEs. The scheme provides great opportunity to the large sector of MSME (Associations and Units) as well as Indian design fraternity – the design consulting firms, independent designers, various design institutes of the country and also the design students to engage them to assist the country’s large MSME sector move up the value chain through increasing the value and competitiveness of their products and services. The scheme targets to reach out to about 200 MSME clusters over the next two and half years. This will be achieved through organization of about 200 design sensitization seminars, 200 Design Clinic Workshops and 400 design projects including 100 student design projects (final year thesis projects). The main objective of the Design Clinic Scheme is to bring MS&ME sector and design expertise into a common platform and to provide expert advice and solutions on real time design problems, resulting in continuous improvement and value addition for existing products. This model brings design exposure to the door step of industry clusters for design awareness, improvement, evaluation, analysis and design related intervention. National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad will assist the Ministry of MSME, Government of India, as a nodal agency for implementing the scheme. As part of the scheme a Design Clinic Centre and its regional centres are being set up to reach out to all parts of the country. For easy percolation of design thinking and philosophy and maximum benefit for MSME units the Design Clinic Scheme is divided at 3 broader levels. Design clinic scheme will assist industrial clusters to open a channel for design information inflow for creative, innovative and futuristic approach towards the product, process, operations, manufacturing and business design. These activities are helpful in smooth transition in to several levels of design intervention in industrial and business activities of MSMEs. 1. Design Sensitisation Seminar 2. Design Awareness programme a. Need Assessment Survey b. Design Clinic Workshop 3. Design Projects The scheme will help generate insight for opportunity identification and design intervention for competitive and breakthrough solutions for MSMEs. The total scheme budget will be Rs. 73.58 crores, out of which Rs. 49.08 crores will be GoI assistance and the balance Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 3 4 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Introduction Design Awareness Program The design awareness programme, DAP, is focused to develop a holistic map of MSME clusters and units by exploring through industrial functions and activities. The design experts will generate design information about products, market scenario, technology, communication, research & development, and various industrial functions along with human factor study for ergonomics, safety, convenience, learning and skill up gradation through design research. Also the programme will provide design remedies for identified opportunities through design clinic workshop. The workshop will help participants to understand the holistic scenario of cluster and benefit them with the support of design experts, for design intervention in opportunity areas explored during the programme. The activities of design awareness programme are targeted around following areas of design information collection and remedial solutions. Design Expert will visit the identified / selected MSME units located in cluster region and interact with them to develop a design understanding of cluster. During the interaction design will provide inputs to MSMEs about product improvements, best practices and creative problem solving approach based on contextual scenario. In the process she /he will identify underlying opportunities with the help of explorative design research of clusters and participating units. This activity is an intensive design research for understanding the present Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 scenario and opportunities for the design intervention. Also it will help improve MSME through Interactive learning, guidance and training during the visit. This activity will be a detailed research thorough visits and interaction with people within the MSME work environment. It will also help designer to generate information about the cluster units, their products, manufacturing processes, market scenario followed by identifying opportunity areas for design interventions. The research would be taken up by design experts for generation of design insights through various processes of exploration, interaction and data collection. Design experts will take part in developing macro perspective by studying cluster scenario and micro point of view by exploring through MSME units operations. As an outcome of interactive design research, experts will identify opportunity areas at cluster as well as units level for design interventions and design projects in the future course of design clinic scheme. The research methodology for design study survey will include activities through observation, interaction, photography, interviews and qualitative/quantitative design data collection. The survey will help in developing detailed map of cluster and units for identification of patterns and exploring opportunity areas for design intervention at various levels of product and human interactions. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 5 6 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta About National Institute of Design The National Institute of Design (NID) is internationally acclaimed as one of the foremost multi- disciplinary institutions in the field of design education and research. The Business week, USA has listed NID as one of the top 25 European & Asian programmes in the world. The institute functions as an autonomous body under the department of Industrial Policy & Promotion, Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India. NID is recognised by the Dept. of Scientific & Industrial Research (DSIR) under Ministry of Science & Technology, Government of India, as a scientific and industrial design research organisation. NID has been a pioneer in industrial design education after Bauhaus and Ulm in Germany and is known for its pursuit of design excellence to make Designed in India, Made for the World a reality. NID’s graduates have made a mark in key sectors of commerce, industry and social development by taking role of catalysts and through thought leadership. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 7 About Ranaghat, Nadia N E W S Map of India 8 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Ranaghat is a city in the district of Nadia, West Bengal, India. It is situated 74 kilometres north of Calcutta. It is mostly known for its handcraft especially silver and gold craft and hand loom industry. The town has spread up along its borders in all corners recently. People from the nearby places do come here for living. Geography The town is exactly 74 kilometres north of Calcutta and 26 kilometres south of Krishnanagar, Nadia District headquarters. The Bangladesh border is very close to this town. Ranaghat is located on the banks of River Churni. Population Ranaghat had a population of 68,754.[4] Males constitute 51% of the population and females 49%. Ranaghat has an average literacy rate of 84%, higher than the national average of 59.5%: male literacy is 87%, and female literacy is 80%. In Ranaghat, 8% of the population is under 6 years of age. Economy Ranaghat is a place of business. Small traders from nearby towns and villages purchase goods from Ranaghat Town Bazar. Both Wholesale and Retail business have developed here. The Economy of Ranaghat and its surrounding region is mostly based on agriculture. Paddy (rice), flour, wheat and fruits are produced by farmers outside the main township. Another industry which is not receiving the government’s patronage is handicrafts and hand looms. At least 1000 people depend on this for their livelihood. Map of West Bengal, indicated Nadia district and Ranaghat Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 9 Education The town boasts a large number of primary and high-schools and a reputed college for higher education. Festivals The town is inhabited mostly by Bengali Hindus. Durga-puja, like in all other Bengali communities, is the largest and most colourful festival and is celebrated throughout the town. Pujas belonging to the old families of Ranaghat are a few hundred years old. The Durga idol at Ghatak Bari is made of cement, a permanent structure which is one of the firsts of its kind in the region. All other major Hindu pujas are celebrated as well. Rathyatra is another big festival of the town. Every year millions of people from the town and nearby places come to see the rath, enjoy various rides and have fun during the month of June–July at the happy club maidan & swasthyonnati Math rath-yatrautsav. Transpotation The city is well connected to the Sealdah railway station through the Sealdah-Ranaghat Line. Local and passenger trains are available every half-an-hour. Ranaghat Jn. has a good service of local trains. The town has two bus-stands, one at Rathtala and one near Ranaghat College. Auto rickshaw service is popular here. There are very few private cars. Nearest airport from the town being the Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport at Dum Dum, almost 80 km from the town. Language Mostly Bengoli is the common language to talk but other language like Hindi, English used very rare to communicate. 10 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 11 Right page: In Jafornagar, an artisan joining the silver chain. This process named “Pan saja”. 12 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Assessment survey Objective The objective of need assessment survey is to generate detailed cluster information to understand the core issues related to • Raw Material at different stages of manufacturing • Infrastructure setup and workplace • Process and techniques • Existing Products • Tools and technology in use • Capability of manufacturing unit • Present Market status • Current Competition • Packaging and Presentation • Display and Marketing • Wastage • Hallmark Methodology • Questioner survey of manufacturing and sales units. • Discussion with unit owner and artisans. • Process observation. • Visit to different working spaces and market. • Find traces from earlier technique and usage of tools and material. • Self observation and analysis. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Expected deliverable This extensive design research is intended to provide qualitative and detail data of every cluster to generate insights about this craft which would help to address the existing problems and future opportunity area for design intervention or scopes which can be further workout and can be taken up during the design clinic workshop and are as taken up as design projects with in and outside the cluster scenario. Duration Need Assessment Survey was of five days. Further it will followed by Design Clinic Workshop at Ranaghat, West Bengal. Workshop After the conclusion and the submission of Need Assessment Survey Report under the Design Clinic Scheme, a five day workshop was conducted at the Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster in Ranaghat, Nadia (West Bengal) from 18th to 22th March 2013. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 13 14 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Present Status of the Cluster Gold and silver jewellery is a traditional craft of Ranaghat which has been practised from last 100 years. But now in this cluster artisans and owners are facing different problems. The problems are of diverse kinds. For example problems related to marketing, capital, buying and selling, raw materials and various technical nuances etc. The entrepreneurs of micro level have to face many inconveniences due to current rise in market price of the raw materials. The large scale entrepreneurs do not have to face such inconveniences because they have quite an appreciable amount of monetary capital. On the contrary the entrepreneurs of micro level are not being able to compete with the large scale ones as they face financial constraints along with some other important issues. One of them is lack of modern technology. According to the entrepreneurs of micro level, if they are provided with some modern technical advantages it will be easier to uplift their business. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 15 But their main concern is that they are deprived of those mechanical facilities due to lack of fund. Consequently this is also another main cause behind such unequal competition with the large scale ones. There are another big issue about Hallmark. As gold is a life time investment and asset, market demand will be developed if Hallmark is introduced. In rural areas install payment is another aspect of this business because those customers can never give one time payment. They are compelled to accept instalment payments for running their business as they have to face many other inconveniences or constraints. So this can be considered as a limitation of this business. Wastage of materials is another kind of botheration. It has been noticed that more number of steps involved in processing lead to more wastage. For example, when gold transfers from hand to hand wastage is involved during the entire process from melting to making the final product and last but not the least finishing. This particular feature prevails amongst the entrepreneur of micro level. Their point of view is that if they can avail the modern technological facilities perhaps amount of wastage will decrease and accordingly wages will also decrease. 16 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Government provides space to other craft clusters for marketing. As a result a direct communication exists between business men and buyers. The main drawback of the entrepreneurs is that they are not receiving any of such privileges from the government since today. Their earnest appeal is that if the government deals with the marketing side their business will flourish as it is not possible for the buyers to contact the entrepreneurs of micro level of the rural areas. If the government bridges the gap between the buyers and artisans, it will be easier for them to communicate. Besides, their product is so valuable that buyers and sellers have to bear the risk while travelling. If the entire process is done in an organized way, everybody will be benefited. Their limitation is that they can not avail artisan card. The big concern is that the Government is unable to arrange loan facilities for them as they are not included in the area of crafts. This is now a big issue to them to take benefit of loans from the Government. After the assessment my realization is their requirements should be urgently considered for their business promotion. Through this report I intend to highlight their problems. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Highlighted Core Issues The below mentioned fields have been discussed in this report which are required urgent attention and have been affecting the overall development of Ranaghat gold and silver jewellery cluster. • Process and Techniques • Machines and Tools • Existing Products • Infrastructure and Working place • Display and Merchandising • Packaging • Market Analysis • Ergonomics • Hallmark • Wastage Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 17 Existing Gold Products of Ranaghat Cluster 18 Aangti ( ring ) Pala badhano bala ( wristlet ) Churri ( wristlet ) Nak chabi ( nose pin ) Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Churri ( wristlet ) Hand chain Kaner dul ( ear rings ) Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Necklace Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 19 20 Rings Hand made chains Hand made and machine made chains Ear tops Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Existing Silver Products of Ranaghat Cluster A photo of goddess ornaments Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 21 Goddess ornaments 22 Nupur ( anklets ) Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Silver vessel Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Traditional Hand made (anklets) Silver Nupur Products Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 23 Gold Making Process Dice making Gold melting process is also same like silver, only copper and silver is mixed with gold instead of Cadium. Here, artisan sometime does this melting process in his own workshop. As gold cost is higher than silver. Then the material comes to the dice maker who cuts different shape and forms. 24 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Different forms for dice Dice making: A particular type of machine is used for making small forms. Dices of different forms have been made for this purpose. Pressure is created on the gold and silver sheet according to the form and ultimately design comes out of the dice. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Pattern making on wax Before welding Pattern making for gold: According to the design. wax is used to make the patterns. Here they followed few magazines for the patterns. The main object of using wax is to ensure that elements are not separated from each other. This wax is a black soil like special type of wax. White plaster is poured on the product after sticking it on wax. When Paris dries the product is tempered from behind and then welded. Consequently elements are joined with each other. Welding Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 25 Detailing Stone setting: Artisan needs to go outside to do this process. As in their cluster area they have not this kind of facility. Cutting machine: This machine helps to develop carved designs. Usually short and long lines and rubbed surface texture is created on the product and this way design detailing is done with the help of the machine. 26 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues Need a design development training Lack of strength and skill to create new patterns and motifs, according to the market. Lack of aesthetic quality to make a unique product. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Polishing Shampoo polish Acid polish Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 27 Polishing: A special technique finishing or polishing is used after the product has been made. At first Bob polish machine is utilized. For this purpose a machine is placed behind the screen. A square opening exists on the screen and the expert with the help of this machine, hiding behind this screen. The object of putting up this screen is to avoid excessive wastage of material. After that H2SO4 and boiled water is mixed and the product is dipped into the solution for some time and then dipped into water. Then the product is dipped into a mixed solution of shampoo and water and placed on a machine. It is stirred for some time. The businessmen of this locality are used to polish the product following these three procedures. Issues Acid polish which is very dangerous for health and environment. A Necklace 28 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Gold Making Process Flow High cost of production Trader buy raw material Have to come Kolkata to buy or making the chain Wastage Melting Drawing wire and sheets Artisans Chain and bolls Shaping gold according to desired design copy pattern from market available catalogue or give by the customer Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 According to the market demand they can not make fine chain. As they do not have the modern chain making technology facility in their cluster area. Less technical facility in their workshop for that they travel more Welding, shouldring etc Polishing Come to the shop or according to the order product goes to the person Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 29 Silver Making Process Cadium Raw material Mostly all the units buy raw materials from different dealers. Silver melting: This process is very much important to prepare the final product from raw materials. Mainly cadium is added to soften the pure silver. Otherwise value assessment of silver is not possible for the customer. As it is a high cost material. So Cadium must be added in proportionate quantity. 30 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Then it is poured in a pot and placed in a coke oven for melting. Before starting the process, quantity of raw material is to be measured to detect the amount of wastage. After that it is put in an oven glass blower which is used to increase heat at a uniform rate. Sudden application of excessive heat may cause the Cadium to dissipate. The solution is kept on the oven for 15-20 minutes. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Brown smoke The next step is to take out the molten material from there with the help of an earthen pot and pour on dices. Dices look like long sticks. Next, those sticks are to be immersed in two pots containing acid and water respectively. Then amount of wastage after melting is measured. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Cadium crates unhygienic smoke. • Wastage of raw material is a serious issue in time of melting. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 31 Normal and acid water Ready material 32 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Wire Making of wire: Wires of different gazes are made from the sticks. Ornaments Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 33 Different dices and tools There are different dices for this purpose. When sufficient wires are manufactured, they are shifted to the artisan’s workplace. The entrepreneur transfers the materials to the artisans after calculate the amount of material. The artisans receiving the wires develop design according to the demand or order. The artisans have dices of different sizes to make the wires fine. The wire is inserted inside the iron dice and then pulled enough to make them gradually thin. Making patterns: Next process is to cut those wires into small pieces remaining their ends open. The process of ‘pan saja’ (making joint) is followed when fixed amount of chains are manufactured. This process means Cutting of small sizes of sheets and place them on every joint. After that welding is done with the help of a gas heater. Then chain rotate with a iron machine called ‘ghorna ’to make the dimensions of the chains flat. Different elements are used when the chains are finished according to the product specification like ball’, jhumka ring etc. 34 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 35 Issues This process is a very long and laborious to make one piece of chain and artisan wage is very low. Fine quality chain is not possible to make. Can not compete with current market, because lack of modern technology and skill. Mainly they can not make thin silver chain but according to them it has good demand in current market. Joining process Welding 36 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Silver ornaments for god and goddess: Silver ornaments making for God and Goddess is a traditional craft in Shantipur, West Bengal. In the present time also this craft has a market demand. But this is true that they are facing few problems. Issues High price of raw material This cluster does not have new machine to get the big size silver sheets. They out sourced from other place. New generation is not skilled like the older master artisans. Lack of skill and labour. Silver sheet Drawing on tracing paper Making patterns Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 A photo of goddess ornaments Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 37 Shampoo polishing machine Polishing: Some techniques of polishing is used for silver after the product has been made. Bob polish and a mixture of shampoo and water solution are utilized. Issues Can not have elector plate polish. 38 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Silver Jewellery Making Process Flow Have to come Kolkata to buy or making the chain Trader buy raw material Melting Drawing wire and sheets Artisan According to the market demand they can not make fine chain. Small entrepreneur can not fulfil order Chain and bolls Shaping silver according to desired design Artisans make traditional pattern according to the order Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Welding, shouldring etc Polishing Come to the shop or according to the order goes to the person Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 39 Raw Material, Machines and Tools Raw material, gold For making thin sheets 40 Raw material, silver For drawing wires Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Silver with cadium Cutting machine For making dice Rubbing machine Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Different sizes of melting glass Doming block Wire drawer Plier Shaper Hammer Tweezer Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta File 41 Driller Wax lamp Blowing pipe 42 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Weight machine Ring sizes Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Cutting machine Sulphuric acid and soda for polishing Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 For polishing Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 43 Units Visited Pocket A (gold) Issues Lack of modern techniques and machines He can not make fine and thin golden chain according to the present market demand. As in his workshop he does not have new technical facility to make this kind of golden chain. For this reason he has to come to Kolkata to make or buy this kind of fine chain. So most of the time he needs to travel with gold material which makes a huge risk for him. Quality of product can be developed Market Can not compete with others, because lack of new design and techniques. Very much concentrated in local buyers, no such link up with other states. Environment and health issue Unit: 1 Owner: Tarak Karm akar Unit name: New Laxmi Narayan Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Mode of craft: Wholesaler Have been working for last 15 years Products: Mainly golden jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09475825359 44 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Few techniques of polishing are used after the product has been made. There is a finishing process which is done with Sulphuric acid and soda. When both of two ingredients are mixed together, it creates a gas which is very unhealthy smell. Everyday artisan takes this smell continuously. Wastage issue Storage of the products can be developed Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Can not make thin golden chain Using plastic container to store products Very low quality rings Sulphuric acid creates a unhealthy smell and smoke Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Sulphuric acid Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 45 Gas cylinder Unit: 2 Owner: Mangal Tarafdar Unit name: Gyanoda Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker), working for last 15 years Products: Golden and silver jewellery, Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09647486846 46 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Lack of modern techniques and tools, can not compete with the market. • Quality of product can be developed • Workstation can be developed or organised • Wastage issue • Hallmark Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Less space to work Unit: 3 Owner: Madhab Podder Unit name: Podder Nose Pin Jewellery works Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker), working for last 20 years Product: Mainly golden nose pin Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09434418854 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Lack of modern techniques and tools • Lack of new form and pattern according to the competition market • Local oriented market • No facility to marketing the product • Workstation could be developed. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 47 Not an impressive packaging Unit: 4 Owner: Paresh Patra Unit name: S.M Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Sales Have been working for last 16 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery and silver vessels Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09735629126 48 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Lack of modern techniques and tools in his workshop Travel with material is a big issue. • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing product • Packaging can be impressive • Lack of merchandizing facility • Hallmark issue Submitted by: Susmita Dutta work space Unit: 5 Owner: Palash Bharati Unit name: Palash Bharati Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 10 years Products: Golden and silver jewellery, Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09434249111 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Less skill • Less strength of capacity • Small workplace • Lack of modern techniques and tools • Does not follow any market trend • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 49 Unit: 6 Owner: Biswajit Karmakar Unit name: Madhusudan Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Sales Have been working for last 20 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09734934996 50 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Less skill • Worker issue • Less strength of capacity • Small workplace • Lack of modern techniques and tools • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product • Hallmark issue and artisan card Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Not proper display Unit: 7 Owner: Dipankar Sarkar Unit name: M / S Sarkar Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 25 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09434249111 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Worker issue • Less strength of capacity • Small workplace • Product display • Lack of modern techniques and tools • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product • Hallmark issue and artisan card Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 51 Not proper display • Not proper display Unit: 8 Owner: Gaur Karmakar Unit Name: Sandha Jewellers Place: Uttarpara Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 15 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 099434897922 52 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Lack of modern techniques and tools • Product innovation • Display • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product • Hall mark Submitted by: Susmita Dutta • Unit: 9 Owner: Binod Bihari Karmakar Unit Name: Siddeswari Jewellers Place: Gangnapur Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 25 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery. Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09434432143 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Less strength of capacity • Lack of modern techniques and tools • Very small workplace • Product innovation • Does not have any showroom to display products • Packaging • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product • Hall mark and artisan card Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 53 Issues • Less strength of capacity • Very small workplace • Does not follow any trend • Product innovation • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product • Artisan card work space Unit: 10 Owner: Ashim Karmakar Unit name: Arnab Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 12 years Product: Mainly golden nose pin Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day 54 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Issues • Less strength of capacity • Lack of skill • Lack of modern techniques and machines in their workshop for this they are facing a high cost of production • Product innovation • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product • Hallmark • Artisan card Unit: 11 Owner: Subir Kumar Dey Unit Name: Ramakrishna Jewellers Place: Habibpur Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 12 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09434822406 Unit: 12 Owner: Biplab Saha Unit Name: Maa Dakshineswari Jewellers Place: Dhantala Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 12 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09733682785 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 55 Unit: 13 Owner: Bimal Roy Unit Name: Laxmi Narayan Jewellers Place: Pairadanga Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 10 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Issues Not proper display and sometime with a plastic container they deliver the product to customer. Basically this is the style of their packaging. • Less strength of capacity • Lack of modern technical facility • Very small workplace • Product innovation • Display • Packaging • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product • Hallmark and artsan card • • Randomly display Unit: 14 Owner: Shyamol Sarkar Unit Name: Sarkar Jewellers Place: Pairadanga Age: Mode of craft: Sales Have been working for last 11 years Product: Golden and silver jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09733770173 Issues • Lack of modern technical facility for that cost of production is high. • Product innovation • Display • Packaging • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product • Hallmark and artsan card Pocket B (silver) Issues • Product innovation and diversification • Lack of new technology, specially for silver melting process. As it effects a high cost factor. Silver chain making machine should not come to the cluster as it can effect on the artisans of Zaforpur and halalpur. As 100 families financially depend on this hand made craft. • Packaging • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product Unit: 5 Owner: Shyamal Mondal Unit name: L.N. Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Wholesaler Have been working for last 10 years Product: Mainly silver chain, making gold jewellery too Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09475920503 58 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Unit: 16 Owner: Ranjan Biswas Unit name: Biswas Jewellers Place: Jafornagar Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 15 years Product: Silver chain Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09733768262 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Process is laborious and time taking. If new technology can reduce the labour of the artisan and increase production capacity • Lack of technology to make fine thin silver chain which is not possible to make by hand • Lack of new technology • Artisan • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 59 This kind of storage can break the continuity form of the chain or can lose. For this reason cost can be effected. Unit: 15 Artisans: Monojit Roy and his wife (16) Place: Jafornagar Age: 41 Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 15 years Product: Silver chain Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Issues He works for others. Traders give them silver wire and sheets to make chains and anklets of different design. • Handmade chain making process is very laborious. • According to the labour wages is very low. • Workplace could be developed. Natural light is mainly their source of light to work. • Storage of the product • Ergonomic 60 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Unit: 14 Owner: Ripan Modak Place: Jafornagar Age: 36 Mode of craft: Silver melting and wire making. Have been working for last 15 years Product: Silver stick and wire Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Cadium smoke which is very unhygienic for health. • Worker needs to have this smoke everyday. • Workplace could be developed Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 61 Not proper display Unit: 12 Owner: Prosenjit Sen Unit name: Rupsa Jewellers Place: Shantipur Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 15 years Product: Mainly silver products, including gold Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09153431032 62 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Issues • Lack of new technology, specially for minakari, big size silver sheet and gold chain making machine • Artisan, lack skilled of young generation • Quality of the product is low now. Because high cost of raw material. Customer can not effort pure silver or 100% silver • Packaging • Display • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Common design Does not have facility to make big silver sheet Used this colour to create a minakari look on the silver Randomed display Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 For packaging Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 63 Unit: 11 Master artisan: Shasanko Pramanik Place: Shantipur Age: 60 Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 40 years Product: Mainly silver ornaments for god and goddess and other silver jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day 64 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 He works for others. Traders give him silver wire and sheets to make different traditiona design of ornaments for goddess and others. Issues • Workplace could be organised • New tools and technique which can help artisan to less laborious his work. • New motifs and patterns can introduced for the goddess ornaments. • Ergonomic Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Issues • Lack of new technology • Artisan, lack skilled of young generation • Artisans keep migrate for good wage • Packaging • Display • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product Unit: 13 Owner: Dinesh Karmakar Unit name: Raj Laxmi Jewellers Place: Shantipur Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker) Have been working for last 15 years Product: Silver and gold jewellery Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09046545736 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 65 Unit: 7 Owner: Proddut Chowdhury Unit name: Produut Jewellers Place: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Wholesaler Have been working for last 10 years Product: Silver products Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09434370475 66 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Packaging can be changed Issues • Product innovation • Workplace could be organized • Packaging • Local oriented market • Less facility to marketing the product Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Scope for Research and Development Direction for Future Initiatives Issues Small entrepreneurs of this cluster do not have sufficient funds or expertise to continue research and development on a regular basic. Can not effort modern technology or do not have resources to introduce modern technology. Quality of product is compromised due to lack of skill and technology. Opportunities Through R&D activities machinery, tooling and process can be developed. Need a common facility centre (CFC) where the cluster people can get the new facility of technology. It could help them to organise their working system. Research in terms of consumer demand, trends and competition in the local market, domestic and international market. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 67 Study of Existing Product Design, Redesign, New Product Development and Diversification Issues The existing products of Ranaghat jewellery cluster are copied from catalogue available in the market or provided to them by the traders. The products are not made of 100% real gold and silver. Copper and silver are mixed with gold and cadium mixed with silver. Because of high cost of material customers can not afford 100 % gold and silver. The products are made of various qualities depending on the requirement of the traders / customers. Mostly they have two kind of business strategy. Some of units are manufacturer or retailer and some of are whole seller. Lack of strength and skill to create new patterns and motifs, according to the market. Lack of aesthetic quality to make a unique product. Some of the existing jewellery pieces are heavy and only used on occasions such as marriages and festivals. The quality and purity of gold and silver is doubtful and there is no method available in the cluster to measure it. 68 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Less use of stone with the product. As lack of skill and facility they have to go outside to do this process. There is no such product diversification, no coordination of the product. Opportunities There is a good scope for design development or redesign of the products. The existing traditional products could be more contemporised and relevant, less laborious. New motifs can be developed from their daily life or to inspire from their local heritage. The elements from the existing traditional jewellery can be used for new product development and diversification. Product can be co-ordinated with other jewellery. Surface finish, textures can be introduced. Using local traditional motifs will give the product an identity. Improve the aesthetic of the product in terms of detailing of the form, patterns and closing. Quality can be improved. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Not unique, outdated Source of the design is catalogue. Heavy ornament Outdated closings Need innovative design Outdated findings Outdated findings Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 69 Existing Status and Opportunity for Display, Branding and Communication Design Issues Most of the units have display area or showroom. But very few have impressive showrooms to showcase their products properly. Not proper brochure, catalogues are being used. They have a website called www.alibaba.com, but not impressive to sell directly to the consumer. Opportunities Brochure and proper catalogue would help them to expand their markets. Websites will help in expanding export markets. The existing units with display need to upgrade and improve their existing displays. Government could provide a marketing facility for this cluster. Cluster people does not have a facility to exhibit their products. 70 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Scope of Technology, Modernization and Design Collaborations Issues Because lack of modern technology, they faced a serious issue of wastage and need to travel more. There is no facility of CAD design. Opportunities Hand made chain Scope of design intervention in tool development at every level of process to make the process fast and would be helpful in manufacturing fine and quality product. According to the market trend or demand they can not make very fine and light chain. As do not have chain making machine facility. Need a common facility centre (CFC) to reduce the wastage in the process and get the technical facility which can help artisans to increase their productivity and reduce their labour, especially for handmade silver making artisans. For the big silver sheet, they need to go to Kolkata. Do not have big sheet making machine. New polishing method can be introduced for both silver and gold. The process of making handmade silver chain is very lengthy and laborious. It does not make artisan happy as they can not get a good amount of wage. In the cluster there is only one casting place. So it causes less production of bulk orders of the same product. They do not have stone setting machine in their cluster. So they have to go to Kolkata for this process. There is no modern facility for polishing. Hand made chain Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 71 Give a minakari look on the silver Machine made chain Do not have stone setting facility 72 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Big silver sheet can not produce in the cluster To make hand made silver chain takes a long time to produce Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Design Opportunity in Workstation and Tooling Design Issues Used tools are outdated. It takes a long time in the production. Work place is not appropriate, not organized. Sometime artisans used wax lamp for welding. They have gas blower but icost high. Opportunities Scope of design intervention in tool development at every level of process to make the process fast and would be helpful in manufacturing fine and quality product. Would be the process less tiring and laborious. Organized work stations at CFC to improve the way of their business. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 73 74 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Market Analysis and Competition Study for Design Advantage Present marketing scenario and competition Mostly they have two kind of business strategy. Some of units aremanufacturer and some of are whole seller. Artisans are mostly dependent on local and domestic market. There do not have no such exporter include in their business. Few units do not have direct market linkages for sale their products, but most of have. Do not have international exposer for selling their products. In rural areas install payment is another aspect of this business because those customers can never give one time payment. They are compelled to accept instalment payments for running their business as they have to face many other inconveniences or constraints. So in this cluster this can be considered as a limitation of their business. Opportunities Coordination of accessories could make an impression on the customer. Using traditional local motifs which can create an identity of their products. They can introduce new contemporised accessories for daily used purpose. They can participate in the different exhibition which also can expand their market. Lack of modern technology is also a weakness to compete with the present market. Role of mediators is not decided. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 75 Description of Ergonomic and Environment Factors in MSME Premise Sitting on floor and working for long hours can lead to back pain Working at night under a bulb light can effect eye sight 76 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Cadium’s smoke Cadium’s smoke Sulphuric acid gas is extremely harmful for health and environment (one of polishing method) Natural light is the source of work Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Cadium crates unhygienic smoke. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 77 Packaging, Logistics and Storage Related Design Opportunities Usually, different types of papers are used for packaging but sometimes pink kite papers are also used. Most of the times, packaging is done by wrapping the product with this paper or sometime used different boxes. Product packaging should be given emphasis. The idea behind packaging that is to present something to customers should be developed on an urgent basis. Issues There is no concept of packaging at the cluster level. According to their capacity or strength retailer has used different kind of container for packaging of the product. This would be a challenge for the product designer to replace the packaging style with a financially viable material. . New packaging design can be introduced such as string paper and cloth bags or boxes using traditional essence. Probably these bags will create a unique identity to the Ranaghat cluster. Although this packaging should be cost effective but impressive. A good packaging can help them to improve their business strategy. Every units do not follow a good presentation to impress customers. As gold and silver both of these are a valuable product. So it is important to improve their packaging style. No unique identity for the cluster. Everybody used same kind of boxes, bags or container. Products are kept either in a container or kept in a plastic pouch, leads to breakage and wear. Opportunities Need to understand them the value of a good presentation to the customers. 78 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Pink paper used for silver and gold packaging Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Using plastic container to store products Not an impressive packaging Not an impressive packaging Using plastic container to store products Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 79 Hallmark Courtesy www.google.com Everyone wants their belongings to be safe and secure. There are many things that one wants to keep safe. When it comes to security it is very difficult to have faith on anyone. But if we talk about jewellery then Hallmark is the best way to secure jewellery. Here, in this cluster now Hallmark is a big issue to the entrepreneur. They have an appeal to the Government. If the Government can provide the benefit of Hallmark especially for the cluster area it will be more beneficial for the business because consumers always want to spend their money on genuine products. As gold is a life time investment and asset, market demand will be developed if Hallmark is introduced. Then local customers will prefer to buy products from them instead of visiting big city show rooms. Consequently their savings will increase. 80 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Wastage and Cost of Production Wastage of materials is another kind of botheration. It has been noticed that more number of steps involved in processing lead to more wastage. For example, when gold transfers from hand to hand wastage is involved during the entire process from melting to making the final product and last but not the least finishing. Mainly this wastage happens because they do not have every facility to make a product. For an example who is creating the main form, he does not have the facility of melting, polishing, casting or dicing etc. So person need to go here and there to make the final product. This way commonly the amount of wastage of a product increase and simultaneously wages of the product also increase. 50 milligram wastage of gold value is 160 rupees. This particular feature prevails amongst the entrepreneur of micro level. Their point of view is that if they can avail the modern technological facilities perhaps amount of wastage will decrease and accordingly wages will also decrease. Issue Cost of production is very high because of the wastage in every stage. Recommendation: Need a common facility centre to solve the issue of wastage. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 81 Exhibition or Display design Opportunities Issues Can not get any opportunity to participate in the exhibition or fairs. Opportunities Artisans can participate in trade fair at state, national and international level. Products can be displayed through exhibition in various cities. 82 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Scope of Design Intervention Skill up gradation Develop their knowledge about aesthetic and unique product. T o create new forms or patterns. Develop new designs and patterns according to the target market. Develop designs in series, so they can treat as a set of jewellery. Product finishing, packaging. Design intervention Develop new product range according to target market in or outside country. Quality control must required. New Market Better display and retail outlets. Website, package graphics, brochures and branding may help. Upgrade infrastructure Design the space and infrastructure from the production point of view. Introduce new techniques and tools. Hallmark facility Reduce Wastage Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 83 84 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta C O N C L U S I O N Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 85 SWOT Analysis Strength This craft heritage is an age old historical system. Market demand for ornaments prevails now and will be prevalent even in future. Availability of raw material. There is no scarcity for skilled artisans. There is ample scope for working traditional forms, motives, designs, small space infrastructure- all these are their plus points. Weaknesses Less strength of unity. Small scale entrepreneurs are not able to compete properly with the market competition. They are constrained with lack of sufficient unity, labour problems, issues related to health hazards and environment, wastage of raw material in every step etc. 86 products and process at various level. Most of the units do not have marketing arrangement for export. Opportunities New design invention is required for business development. There is ample scope for new surface design and product designs according to the current market. There is scope for lifestyle accessories, domestic and export market. More employment opportunities will crop up if new technology, form, shape and product are introduced. Threat Most of the times, designs are directly replicated from the competitors. There is also lack of awareness. Another concern is high cost of raw material. They are compelled to back out as they are devoid of marketing facilities. Labourer migrates from one place to another as they have no steady jobs. Sometimes labourers threaten the entrepreneurs to resign from their jobs owing to their market demand. Product specialization and product awareness is a must. The new generation does not want to involve in this business. No testing lab for research and technical suggestion. There is no protocol is made to check the quality of the They are not able to communicate with the buyers as they do not follow any trend. There is lack of story-making for buying products. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 87 A future vision For sustainable market Sustain long term market Improved Quality Government Organisations Required interventions more scope to expand market Designers and technical person involved Increase quality market New Interventions in tool and techniques. Skill up gradation and training programmes Research and Documentation Workshops for different stage Increase in number of skilled artisans Design Consultancy Scope for more employment New Designs and Product Research Merchandising Packaging Branding Research Labs National International Market 88 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Issues Unit level issues Cluster level issues National level issues High price cost of raw material Work station Tools and technical Wastage in every stage Labour skills Labour availability Lab testing facility Quality check Investment Labour shifts from one unit to another Because lack of technical issue can not compete to current market and can not make unique product Awareness about trends and ethnic New product development Motifs and patterns development Hallmark Display Marketing National and International market Sometime no direct communication with the byers Urban trends Technical support Common Facility Centre (CFC) Loan policies for artisans Artisan card Urban trends Markets Exhibition space Direct communication with the byers Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 89 90 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta A Five-Day Design W O R K S H O P Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 91 WORKSHOP After the conclusion and the submission of Need Assessment Survey Report under the Design Clinic Scheme, a Five - Day Workshop was conducted at the Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster in Ranaghat, Nadia ( West Bengal ). The workshop was aimed based on the problems and opportunities identified during the Need Assessment Survey. The workshop was organized to give the artisans a few immediate design solutions for identified opportunities for design intervention from the existing problems. As per the Need Assessment Survey one of the main focus area was on improvement their design process of making new patterns and motifs and gave them ideas on how they could sell their own creative products in the market. Therefore, for the workshop Ms. Indira Basu was invited from Kolkata who has been practicing design based on packaging and marketing of products for several years. 92 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Few photos from workshop Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 93 List of Participants SL NO 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 NAME SUBIR KUMAR DEY PALASH BHARATI BINOD BIHARI KARMOKAR DIPANKAR SARKAR BISWAJIT KARMOKAR AMIT SHARMA PRADYUT CHOUDHURY MADHAP PODDER DEBONISTHA SARKAR NANDA GOPAL DEY MONGOL TARAFDAR SHYAMOL MONDAL SHYAMOL SARKAR CONTACT NUMBER 09434822406 09093273757 09434432143 09434249111 09734934996 09732526007 09434370475 09434418854 09477367784 09733623364 09647486846 09475920503 09733710173 • There were few guest artists and artisans in the workshop. They attended workshop for mostly one day. 94 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Design Clinic Workshop Schedule There was a good response for the workshop and more than 13 participants registered for the workshop. Participants were divided into three different groups and the workshop was continued with same group of people. Later They came up with few ideas of design patterns individually. Day One to Day Five Morning Session • Registration • Inauguration Session • Presentation on issues based on Need Assessment Survey • Presentation on different kinds of jewellery Registration and Inauguration Afternoon Session • Introduction to create new forms and motifs • Introduction to Jewellery design • Jewellery packaging design and marketing • Feedback, Closing Session and Way Ahead In the end an interactive session was conducted in which the invited artisans and entrepreneurs of different units asked their queries from the invited Government Officials and Experts regarding the scheme and the solutions of the problem which they are facing in the process. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 95 Presentation and Introduction on Different Kinds of Jewellery Design Few slides from presentation The collection of Ranaghat jewellery has been limited. As some of the traditional jewellery styles in Ranaghatl are bulky and is not feasible to wear it on daily basis. Mostly the demand of their jewellery is for weddings or any other occasions purpose. New designs are mostly copied from different jewellery catalogues. Mostly the artisans don’t make new designed products, they generally act as manufacturers for the middlemen who give them designs from magazines, existing catalogues in the market as per the market requirement. So it was realized during the Need Assessment Survey that it is important to introduce the artisans with new possibilities in jewellery design. During the workshop the artisans were given ideas on possible variations of the existing designs for them to explore and for their reference. A set of natural forms were given to them to understand forms and guide them to develop forms from nature surrounding materials. Mostly it was an aimed to make them understand how they can create new jewellery library for Ranaghat cluster. Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Art and Fashionable jewellery The artisans liked the ideas and the process for new product developments which will in future add to there set of existing designs. 96 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Design on necklace Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013, in this page all photos have taken from this site Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 97 Few slides from presentation Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 98 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Designer collection Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 99 Design on wristlet 100 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Design on wristlet Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 101 Design for nose pins Piercing could a different kind of jewellery to use for on going fashion. 102 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Design on anklets Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013, in this page all photos have taken from this site Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 103 Designer collection, theme based jewellery, concept of these products is water. 104 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013, in this page all photos have taken from this site. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Designer collection, concept of this product is flower. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 105 Designer collection, textural jewellery 106 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013, in this page all photos have taken from this site. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 107 Trendy Jewellery, used in different way or style. 108 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Targeted client, product could diverse, availability of the material, trendy jewellery, reasonable pricing, could be effecting with other materials Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 109 Presentation on Issues Based on Need Assessment Survey Not a proper display Suggested solution for display their product 110 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Outdated closings Outdated findings Suggested solution on new technology and finishing Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 111 Suggested solution on product. Product could light, textural, diverse and men could one of client for jewellery 112 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Suggested solution on packaging design. This cluster can create their own identity through attractive packaging. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 113 Introduction to Create New Forms and Motifs 114 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta A set of natural forms were given to them to understand forms and guide them to develop forms from nature and surrounding Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 materials. Mostly it was an aimed to make them understand how they can create new jewellery library for Ranaghat cluster. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 115 Drawing and sketches done by participants 116 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Few drawings and sketches have been developed by artisans. They have derived this forms from those selected themes given to them. After doing this design process they have understood the way to create new designs for jewellery. This was a two Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 days schudle programme in the workshop. Later few has come with their design. The artisans liked the ideas and the process for new product developments which will in future add to there set of existing designs. Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 117 Drawing and sketches done by participants 118 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta This golden pendent was done by Mr. Amit Sharma, one of artisan in the workshop Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 119 This golden ear set was done by Mr. Subir Kumar Dey, one of artisan in the workshop. 120 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta This silver ear set was done by Mr. Pradyut Choudhary, one of artisan in the workshop. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 121 This silver ear sets were done by Mr. Shaymol Sarkar, one of artisan in the workshop. 122 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Introduction to Packaging Design and Marketing Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 123 Ms. Indira Basu was there in the workshop to share ideas on marketing and packaging. Why and how it is important for a product to sell in the market. She shared the story of the famous brand Tiffany & Co. to artisans. The story was based on how this brand came in the market, what is their product line and how they create a final look to their clients. Mainly this story telling was to open up artisan’s mind. Lastly she shared one of her work which she was done based on marketing a jewellery brand called KAHON. This brand is based in Calcutta. 124 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Sharing ideas on packaging design in the workshop Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 125 Sharing ideas on packaging design 126 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 127 Sharing ideas on marketing 128 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Sharing ideas on marketing Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 129 Sharing ideas on marketing 130 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 131 Ideas of different contemporary jewellery 132 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Ideas of different contemporary jewellery Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 133 Ideas of different contemporary jewellery 134 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Ideas of different contemporary jewellery Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 135 136 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Ideas of different contemporary jewellery Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 137 Ideas of different contemporary jewellery 138 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Ideas of different contemporary jewellery Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 139 Snap shot on a feed back form 140 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta Few Interventions Proposed for Uplifting the Ranaghat Jewellery Cluster • Improvement in the present quality of products with better finishing, quality of raw materials. • New design development. • Create a new design library for this cluster. • Create their own identity for the cluster. • Product Diversification such as hairpins, men oriented jewellery, pier sing, cuff links etc. to reach a larger clients. • Not to make heavy jewellery artisans could make light trendy jewellery for daily use. • Improvement in Packaging Design and Branding for the Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster. • Establishing proper infrastructure support for research and development, technological facilities, funding etc. • Tie-ups with designers, experts and technical people from different places. • Design workshops can provide training to artisans along with generating continuous innovative market friendly designs. • Design projects to specifically cater towards participating and getting orders through exhibitions. Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 141
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