1. style and fashion
2. jewelry

JEWELRY AND WATCHES
QUALITY PRODUCT STANDARDS MANUAL
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction
Quality Assurance Means No Surprises
Legal Requirements
Terms and Conditions
4
5
8
Jewelry Quality Standards
Jewelry Testing Methods
Design & Manufacturing Requirements
General
Casting/Construction
Stone Setting
Prong Setting
Bezel Setting
Bead Setting
Channel Setting
Pavé Setting
Surface Finish/Polish
Vendor Trademark/Fineness/Country of Origin Stamping
Metal Standards
Karat Gold
Sterling Silver; Platinum
Combined Metals - Sterling Silver & Karat Gold
Combined Metals – Alternative & Precious Metals
Individual Alternative Metals
Plated Product Standards
General
Vermeil
Approved Plating Testing Facilities
Enamel
Technibond®
Absolute™
Fashion Jewelry
Handmade Jewelry
Limited Edition Jewelry
Gemstones And CZ Standards
Clarity
Color
Carat Weight
Cut/Finish
Pearl Standards
Diamond Standards
Requirements by Jewelry Type: Rings
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-1-
10
11
11
12
12
12
13
13
13
13
14
15
17
17
18
19
20
20
21
21
21
22
22
23
24
27
27
27
28
28
28
28
28
29
31
33
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
TABLE OF CONTENTS (CONT’D.)
Requirements by Jewelry Type: Earrings
Requirements by Jewelry Type: Necklaces/Pendants/Chains/Bracelets
Requirements by Jewelry Type: Bangle Bracelets
Packaging, Labeling and Boxing of Jewelry
Vendor QA Checklist: Jewelry
35
36
38
39
41
Sample Submission Process
Purpose And Scope of The Quality Assurance Evaluation
Lead Times for Domestic and Import Purchase Orders – Jewelry
Jewelry Specification Sheet
Sample Disposition
43
44
45
47
Measurements
How to Measure by Jewelry Type
Rings
Earrings
Necklaces/Pendants/Chains/Bracelets
Bangles/Cuffs
Pin/Brooch
48
48
48
49
50
50
Watch Quality Standards
Sample Submission
Lead Times for Domestic And Import Purchase Orders
General Requirements
Prop 65
Documentation
Inserts/Warranties
Required Stamps: Case, Band, Movement
Product Requirements
General
Case
Case Dimensions
Dial
Movement
Band/Strap
Stone
Extras
Packaging, Labeling And Boxing Requirements
Vendor QC Checklist: Watches
52
52
53
53
53
53
53
55
55
55
55
55
55
56
56
56
57
58
Product Inspection
Inspection
Last updated: 8/30/2012
60
-2-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
TABLE OF CONTENTS (CONT’D.)
Glossary
List of Key Words
63
Key Contacts
Key Contacts in QA
Last updated: 8/30/2012
70
-3-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
INTRODUCTION
Quality Assurance Means No Surprises
HSN’s Quality Assurance department is unlike many other QA programs because we are unlike other traditional
retailers. HSN is not only a retailer, but also a distributor, a broadcaster and an entertainer. Instead of filling floor
space, we fill airtime. Instead of shoppers visiting our store, HSN broadcasts right into our customers’ living rooms
and over the internet. Our customers cannot touch, feel, or try on the item they have decided to buy. HSN’s QA
department must become the eyes and ears of our customers, judging products the way they would if they were
shopping in a traditional store. At HSN, we work hard to make sure that the only surprises our customers have when
the package arrives are pleasant ones.
HSN’s Quality Assurance program exists to ensure the proper execution of every product we buy and sell.
This manual contains information concerning the minimum quality standards HSN expects in the jewelry it
purchases. In QA, one of our evaluators will be assigned to help and work with you. The evaluator will guide you
through a series of steps to determine whether your product and packaging meets our requirements. In
addition, we expect our vendors to comply with all applicable legal requirements concerning the manufacture, sale
and advertising of jewelry products. In certain instances, HSN standards may be higher than the stated legal
minimums.
The quality standards explained in this section are meant to provide our vendors with the necessary guidelines to
produce quality jewelry products consistent with HSN expectations. While the attempt has been made to provide a
thorough set of standards, HSN realizes that many issues may arise that are not specifically dealt with herein. We
encourage our vendors to contact Jewelry QA with any questions. The OVP and Sr. Managing Evaluator of QA
as well as any of our product evaluators will be happy to discuss your specific questions or concerns.
Approval by QA does not relieve the vendor of their responsibilities. Even if a sample is approved by QA,
the vendor remains responsible for compliance with all aspects of HSN standards, including without limitation legal
requirements, this manual, the vendor compliance manual and the master terms and conditions.
HSN QA manuals provide Quality Assurance product requirements for HSN’s major jewelry product
categories (e.g. Absolute, Fashion, Fine, Gold, Sterling Silver, Technibond, Watches). In addition to the general
requirements herein, vendor partners will need to refer to specific category sections for HSN product quality
requirements for that particular category. We strongly encourage all vendor partners to use the on-line version of
the manual since it is always the most current edition and the one which HSN QA will use to evaluate the product.
The online jewelry specification sheet can be found at HSN’s Partner Portal at https://view.hsn.net. There is a User
Guide, Spec Sheet training tools and tutorial on the site that will assist you in learning how to complete and
electronically submit a specification sheet. If you have questions, please contact your Buyer or QA evaluator for
assistance.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-4-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
INTRODUCTION (CONT’D.)
Legal Requirements
HSN expects its business associates to observe and comply with all applicable laws and regulations of the United States as
well as the laws and regulations of the country of origin, country of manufacture, and country of exportation of a product.
HSN also expects its business associates to refrain from behavior or practices considered unethical. HSN does not support
or condone the purchase or sale of “conflict diamonds” or any “conflict” product. HSN will not knowingly purchase or sell
any product that originates from a group or a country which supports or engages in illegal, inhumane or terrorist
activities. HSN expects all vendor partners to comply with the principles of the USA Patriot Act, the Kimberly Process, and
the HR3890 Tom Lantos Block Burmese Jade Act 2008.
It is the vendor partner’s responsibility to meet HSN standards for trademark, fineness, country of origin stamping, and to
supply HSN with a copy of its trademark registration. In the event a trademark application is pending approval with the U.S.
Patent and Trademark office, a copy of the application, and a letter from the responsible attorney (on the attorney’s
letterhead) stating the trademark application has been filed, is required to be on file in QA. Upon completion, a copy of the
Trademark and the Trademark Registration Certification form must be submitted to the QA Department.
It is the vendor partner’s responsibility to read and understand the published guidelines that pertain to the jewelry industry
regarding trademark, fineness, and country of origin stamping. These include but are not limited to:
•
FTC Guidelines for the Jewelry, Precious Metals and Pewter Industries (16 CFR Part 23) at www.ftc.gov provides
definition and description of “hand-made”, “hand-wrought”, “hand-crafted” or “hand-assembled” product. FTC Guides
outline deceptive advertising and marketing tactics which are punishable under U.S. law, and helps jewelers present
their products truthfully and accurately.
•
The National Gold and Silver Stamping Act (15 USC §§ 291-300) establishes U.S. legal requirements for hallmarking
and trademarking jewelry and other articles that are claimed to be made of precious metal. It makes the producers of
precious metal jewelry accountable for all claims of quality and fineness. This law also sets the permitted tolerances
with respect to precious metal fineness and content.
•
Lanham Act (15 USC §§ 1051-1127) is a U.S. law that governs trademarks, service marks, and unfair competition. It
sets forth the scope of a trademark and the process in obtaining one. Its main purpose is to protect trademarks from
being used by others.
•
HSN supports the efforts of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) to uphold the highest level of ethics and integrity
within the trade. The JVC publishes useful reference booklets entitled “Legal Compliance in Plain English” and
“Essential Guide” which may be obtained from the JVC at (212) 997-2002 or www.jvclegal.org.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-5-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
INTRODUCTION (CONT’D.)
Legal Requirements (Cont’d.)
For adult and children’s items (ages 12 and under), items which are NOT entirely made from precious metals (karat gold,
sterling silver, platinum, or stainless steel), require lead ,cadmium and phthalates testing.
California’s “Metal Containing Jewelry Law” outlines limits pertaining to lead content in adult and children’s
jewelry. This document provides specific lead content limits and appropriate test methods to ensure compliance in
Division 20 of the California Health and Safety Code, Chapter 6.5, Article 10.1, Sections 215214.1 through 25214.4.2,
at http://www.dtsc.ca.gov/LeadinJewelry.cfm
All covered jewelry and watch items (including earring stoppers) must comply with the limits set forth. HSN Partners must
provide approved third-party laboratory resting reports with each item submission to QA. The test report verifying
compliance must be uploaded into the online jewelry specification sheet. The report should include the HSN item number,
VPN number, and photo of the item. Failure to provide test reports will result in rejection of the item.
Key Compliance Limits (Lead & Cadmium)
COMPONENT MATERIAL
ADULT JEWELRY LIMITS
CLASS
LEAD
CHILDREN’S JEWELRY LIMITS
(12 AND YOUNGER)
‡CADMIUM
*LEAD
‡CADMIUM
Class 1:
Stainless & surgical steels, karat gold, sterling
silver, platinum group metals, pearl, natural
decorative materials not treated in a way that
adds lead
Exempt
Exempt
Exempt
Exempt
CZ, crystal, glass, ceramic
Exempt
Exempt
0.03% (300 ppm)
Not Detectible
Electroplated metal
6.0% (60,000 ppm)
0.03% (300 ppm)
0.01% (100 ppm)
Not Detectible
Un-plated metal
1.5% (15,000 ppm)
0.03% (300 ppm)
0.01% (100 ppm)
Not Detectible
Plastic, acrylic, rubber, PVC
0.02% (200 ppm)
0.03% (300 ppm)
0.01% (100 ppm)
Not Detectible
Dyes, surface coatings (paint, enamel, epoxy)
(CPSC 16CFR1303.2)
0.06% (600 ppm)
0.03% (300 ppm)
0.009% (90 ppm)
Not Detectible
0.06% (600 ppm)
0.03% (300 ppm)
0.02% (200ppm)
Not Detectible
Class 2:
Class 3:
All other components (not Class 1 or Class 2)
*Children’s Jewelry Items containing >40ppm lead must be labeled with the following warning statement: “WARNING: CONTAINS LEAD.
MAY BE HARMFUL IF EATEN OR CHEWED. MAY GENERATE DUST CONTAINING LEAD."
‡Cadmium limits are effective for all Purchase Orders issued on or after 2/1/12
Key Compliance Limits (Phthalates)
MATERIAL
SUBSTANCE
LIMIT
EFFECTIVE DATE
accessible polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or
other soft plastic, vinyl or synthetic
leather component
Phthalates
DEHP (diethylhexyl phthalate)
DBP (dibutyl phthalate
BBP (benzyl butyl phthalate)
0.1% (1000 ppm)
July 1, 2012
(PO issuance date)
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-6-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
INTRODUCTION (CONT’D.)
Legal Requirements (Cont’d.)
Certificate of Compliance with California’s Metal-Containing Jewelry Law
In addition to providing test reports evidencing compliance lead, cadmium and phthalates limits, all Jewelry and Watch items
submitted to HSN QA must include a declaration of compliance with California law. This certificate must be on your
company letterhead and submitted on the HSN Jewelry Product Specification Sheet. A sample of the required certificate of
compliance language is below:
[COMPANY LETTERHEAD]
Certificate of Compliance with
California’s Metal-Containing Jewelry Law
We [NAME OF MANUFACTURER OR SUPPLIER] certify that the jewelry [PROVIDE COMPLETE DESCRIPTION OF THE
JEWELRY REFERRED TO] does not contain a level of lead, cadmium or other materials that would prohibit the jewelry from
being sold or offered for sale pursuant to Article 10.1.1, Chapter 6.5, Division 20, of the California Health and Safety Code
[sections 25214.1 - 25214.4.2].
COMPANY NAME:____________________________________________________
ADDRESS:
______________________________________________________
CERTIFIED BY:
SIGNATURE:
______________________________________________________
NAME:
______________________________________________________
TITLE & DATE: _______________________________ ______________________
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-7-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
INTRODUCTION (CONT’D.)
Legal Requirements (Cont’d.)
Testing Laboratories
Any CPSC accredited laboratories may be used in the determination of lead or cadmium content as long the testing has
been done in accordance with the requirements of California Metal Containing Jewelry Law. HSN maintains relationships
with several international testing labs in order to help our partners with the test requirements. Please see the below list of
laboratories that can conduct this testing in the US or overseas. If multiple tests are required for an item, combination
pricing may be available. Please inquire at the time samples are submitted.
Bureau Veritas
SGS U.S. Testing Company
UL-STR
Mari Miller
Katherine Stein
Charles Galuska
716-505-3791
973-575-5252
860-749-8371 x236
www.bureauveritas.com
www.sgs.com
[email protected]
Intertek
Armstrong Forensic Laboratory
Mutual Cornell
Scott Larson
Benjamin Armstrong
Kevin Donahue
973-924-2513
817-275-2691
401-274-9998
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
CPSC
The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act of 2008 (the “law") requires manufacturers and importers to certify that all
products manufactured on or after November 12, 2008, are compliant with all applicable standards, rules, and bans enforced
by the CPSC. You must indicate on the first page of the spec sheet if your item is subject to CPSIA Certificate of Conformity
compliance. Compliance shall be evidenced by a General Certificate of Conformity uploaded into the online jewelry product
specification sheet. If not subject, no GCC is required.
HSN's Quality Assurance (QA) Department will require these Certificates of Conformity from our vendor partners as part of
the evaluation process. A sample Certificate of Conformity is available on the Partner Portal under “Vendor
Documents.” Additional information and frequently asked questions regarding the certificates are available on the CPSC's
web site at http://www.cpsc.gov/about/cpsia/cpsia.html. Please work with your QA evaluator on the specific process for
compliance.
Be aware that the Certificate of Conformity is applicable to all products subject to the Federal Hazardous Substances
Act (FHSA), the Flammable Fabrics Act (FFA), and the Consumer Product Safety Act (CPSA). Many different types of
products are covered under FHSA, FFA, and CPSA.
Terms and Conditions
Carefully read the special notes pertinent to the items listed on the PO and refer to the master terms and conditions. In
particular, note that the PO is conditional upon QA’s receipt and approval of the samples.
Approval by QA does not relieve the vendor partner of their responsibilities. Even if a sample is approved by QA,
the vendor partner remains responsible for compliance with all aspects of HSN’s standards, including without limitation,
legal requirements, this manual, the partner requirements manual and the master terms and conditions.
If a vendor is donating a portion of proceeds to a charity, a Charitable Certification Form must be completed and returned to
HSN’s Legal Department.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-8-
JEWELRY STANDARDS
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS
Jewelry Testing Methods
Your samples may undergo all or any combination of testing methods listed below during the evaluation process .
TEST
Pull Test
Pinch Test
Plating
Adherence
Item Drop
Test
Snag Test
DESCRIPTION
REQUIREMENT
Necklace/bracelet pulled in one continuous motion
with 2 pounds of weight to test strength of stringing
material, metal components (clasp, jump rings, wire
wrapping, eye pins, and bead tips).
Rings, bangles, cuffs, and hoop earrings are
squeezed between fingers or palm of hand to test
strength of metal casting.
Piece of tape is attached to item then removed.
Item is dropped onto desk from 1 foot above.
Item is lightly dragged across various fabrics to
detect any potential snagging.
Items should not break and metal
components should not open or
bend.
Item should not bend and/or plating
should not crack.
No plating or paint residue should
transfer to tape.
Stones should not become loose
and piece should be intact.
Snagging that damages the fabric
is not allowed.
Rub Test
Item is rubbed on a piece of paper or a cloth to
No plating or dye can rub off onto
determine plating durability and colorfastness of
paper or cloth.
stones.
Stone
Items are tapped between pointer finger and thumb to Loose stones are not acceptable.
Security Test rattle test for loose stones. Stones may also be
tested for security using tweezers.
Functionality/ Each jewelry item is tested for wearability, proper
Components and findings should
Durability Test function, and durability.
function through a series of
opening/closing that simulate
everyday wear.
Plating and
X-rayography is used to measure the plating
Plating must conform to the
Fineness Test thickness and fineness quality of plated jewelry.
minimum standards for the product
category as stated on spec sheet.
Gemstone
Each gemstone variety in a jewelry item is tested in
Identification must match
Test
HSN’s QA gem lab.
information provided on spec sheet.
Heat Test
Direct contact heat testing with hotpoint, or thermal
conductivity by heat convection (used in conjunction
with other testing methods).
Colorfast Test Items with color dyed stones, string or cord will be
subject to an overnight soak in a glass of water, then
dried on a white paper towel, to test for dye stability.
Identification must match
information provided on spec sheet.
Acetone Swab Submerge or rub acetone soaked swab over stone
Test
surface to test for dye.
No transfer or leaking of color or
dyes is acceptable.
Compression
Test
Item and box must pass without
breakage or damage in prescribed
packaging recipe.
Item and box must pass without
breakage or damage in prescribed
packaging recipe.
Pressure applied to sample in prescribed box recipe
to assure satisfactory shipment to customer.
Package Drop HSN Packaging Lab conducts drop test to simulate
Test
shipping conditions.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-10-
No transfer or leaking of color or
dyes is acceptable.
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Design & Manufacturing Requirements
general
All units within an HSN style number must be identical with regard to design, construction, color ,and surface finish.
Gemstones must fall within acceptable color ranges (see gemstone standards). All items must be consistent with regard
to weights and measurements with the information provided on the specification sheet.
Softflex ®
Softflex ® beading wire is required for:
• All strung items that currently use flexible beading wire.
• All strung items that have gemstone beads and/or metallic elements.
• Any strung item that fails performance testing in our packaging laboratory (your QA evaluator will be in contact
with you when this occurs).
Requirements:
• Must be disclosed on the spec sheet.
• Softflex ® flexible beading wire: 49 strand, 0.024 gauge.
• If this is too large for the drill hole, please move to the next smaller Softflex size.
• Softflex ® crimps: 3x3 or 2x3 (may use a crimp cover for a more finished look).
• Softflex ® crimping pliers.
• Please ensure drill holes are straight and cleaned out before stringing.
• Please contact Mike Sherman, (866) 925-3539, http://www.Softflexcompany.com
Stretch Magic ™
Stretch Magic ™ elastic cord is required for :
• All bracelets designed for stretch performance.
Requirements:
• Must be disclosed on the spec sheet.
• Stretch Magic ™ elastic cord (0.5mm, 0.7mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm,1.2mm, 1.5mm, 1.8mm), use the thickest cord that
will accommodate the size of the bead holes.
• Please ensure that drill holes are straight and cleaned out before stringing.
• Please contact Tom Murray, (800) 343-8114 x17, [email protected]
Special T Glue (available through Softflex)
• Recommended for use where applicable.
• Please contact Mike Sherman, (866) 925-3539, http://www.Softflexcompany.com
Swarovski Elements ®
Items to be advertised as containing Swarovski crystals must be verified and approved by Swarovski. They will be
advertised as “MADE WITH SWAROVSKI® ELEMENTS.”
Requirements:
• Vendor obtains and completes Brand Submission Form from Swarovski.
• Vendor submits a sample of the item to Swarovski offices for verification and approval.
• Swarovski sends letter of authorization to vendor, which vendor uploads to HSN spec sheet.
• Please contact Swarovski at www.swarovski-elements.com.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-11-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Design & Manufacturing Requirements (Cont’d.)
Casting/Construction
All soldered products must be of like karat with no discoloration. There can be no open seams, unfilled areas, cracks,
excessive pitting in the joints, or excess solder. Solder must not "freeze" any parts that normally are moveable (i.e. chain
links, hinges).
Findings with moveable parts must be fully functional and durable enough to withstand repeated operation.
Spring loaded items such as spring rings and lobster claws must operate smoothly and close completely when released.
Findings such as, bails, jump rings, and pin joint and catch, must be the appropriate size and weight according to the size of
the item.
Jump rings on all products must be fully closed. All jump rings on karat gold product items must be soldered closed.
Soldered heads must be straight when viewed from the top, front, and side unless the design dictates otherwise. Gallery
work and airways must be clean, symmetrical, and of equal proportion. Visible porosity and holes in any amount or location
is a defect. Castings must be free of parting lines, flashing, casting "fins," and excess metal from air bubbles.
Stone Setting
Stones must be set level and consistent in height with respect to the design.
Prongs must be even in shape, length, and placement. Length of prongs must be long enough to hold the stone(s) securely
without snagging clothing. There should be no gaps between the prongs and the stones. Stones must be seated properly
with the seat of the prong not exceeding one-third (1/3) of the prong thickness.
Bezels must be smooth and even, and in proportion to the size of the stone they secure. There should be no gaps between
the bezel and the stone.
In channel settings, stone tables must be in the same plane, or follow a curve consistent with the design. Channel walls must
be even and smooth. Stones should be set girdle to girdle. Stones should be set so that the culet is not exposed.
Glue cannot be used in setting gemstones except in the case of pearls (cultured and mabe), marcasite, inlay, certain
applications with opaque stones such as, onyx and jade, or imitation stones used in fashion/costume items. If the design of
the ring is bezel or prong set the stones must be secured by the metal and glue must not be used. If glue is to be used in
setting any natural stone due to the nature of the design (e.g. briolette) it must be pre-approved by QA. Glue should never
be visible through a stone.
Prong Setting
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-12-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Design & Manufacturing Requirements (Cont’d.)
Bezel Setting
i.
Bead Setting
i.
Channel Setting
Pavé Setting
i.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-13-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Design & Manufacturing Requirements (Cont’d.)
Surface Finish/Polish
Metal surfaces must be of a high polish and free of scratches, tool marks, burrs, rough edges, excess metal/flashing, fire
scale, porosity/holes, and surface distortion. Design details must be clean and distinct. Over polishing is unacceptable.
Special finishes (satin, stone finish, "antique," etc.) must be uniformly applied without overlapping onto adjacent areas where
the finish is not intended.
All jewelry items must be clean and dry with no oils, fingerprints, water spots, or polishing compound residue. Lint (from
polishing buffs) under the prongs is unacceptable.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-14-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Trademark/Fineness/Country of Origin Stamping
All products manufactured from any precious metal including gold, silver, and platinum group metals must bear a quality
mark indicating the fineness of the metal content, and must be stamped with a U.S. registered trademark. Quality marks,
trademarks, and country of origin (if required) are the ONLY marks to be stamped on jewelry. Manufacturing marks or
factory marks (including, but not limited to, ring size, part number, ct. weight) will not be accepted. The trademark and
fineness stamp must appear in close proximity on the same component. Stamps should be consistent across variants.
Stamps should be consistent for reorders. Marks should be made directly onto the item by means of stamping, laser
engraving, engraving, etc. All marks must be clear and legible.
It is the vendor’s responsibility to supply HSN with a copy of its trademark registration, uploaded to the online jewelry spec
sheet. In the event a trademark application is pending approval with the U.S. Patent and Trademark office, a copy of the
application, and a letter from the responsible attorney (on the attorney’s letterhead) stating the trademark application has
been filed, is required to be on file in QA. Upon completion, a copy of the trademark and the trademark registration
certification form must be submitted to the QA department.
If an item has a trademark other than the vendor’s, submit a letter of authorization (LOA) from the owner of the trademark
authorizing the use of the trademark. Upload a copy of the letter to the online jewelry spec sheet.
Any article that claims to be made wholly or partly of precious metal must bear a hallmark or fineness stamp which indicates
the precious metal content (e.g. 14K, .925). All items claimed to be made of precious metal must be fineness stamped.
The acceptable stamps for stainless steel are: 316L, Stainless, S Steel, and Stainless Steel.
“Clad” or “bonded” means a sheet of gold over sterling silver, making the silver indistinguishable. If your item is constructed
in this manner, the amount of gold must be disclosed. The amount of gold must be stamped as a fraction representing the
proportion of the weight of gold to the entire piece. If the gold is less than 50% (or ½) of the weight of the item, then the
sterling stamp must go first. For instance: “Sterling Silver + 1/20th 14K” or, “925 + 1/15th 10K.” For items with combined
metals, both the lower and higher karat of one metal, or two different metals, must be marked on the piece and appear
adjacent and equally legible and distinct (e.g. 14K & 18K, or 14K + .925), and are required to comply with the following:
Sterling Silver and Karat Gold Combinations – Order of Marks
Appearance
Metal Alloys
Example Hallmarks
Visually Distinguishable
(different metal colors)
Yellow Gold and Sterling Silver
or
Yellow Gold and White Gold
The metal with the heavier proportion of
weight must precede the other metal
(e.g. .925 & 14K)
White Gold and Sterling Silver
or
Clad/Bonded items
The metal with the heavier proportion of
weight must precede the other metal.
The lighter metal must also be preceded
by a fraction that represents the metal’s
proportion of the total weight of the
piece (e.g. .925 & 1/5 14K)
Visually Indistinguishable
(same metal color)
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-15-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Trademark/Fineness/Country of Origin Stamping (Cont’d.)
Country of origin must be stamped on all items made outside of the U.S. Whenever possible, the country of origin
should be in close proximity to trademark and fineness stamp. The country name must be given in English either in
full or using an acceptable abbreviation. In the event that the country of origin cannot be stamped onto the item due to
physical limitations, obtain QA approval to use a permanently printed hangtag affixed directly onto the merchandise
(one hangtag required on earrings).
If country of origin changes for reordered items, existing inventory must be returned to the vendor, or a new HSN item
number assigned, as inventory cannot be mixed.
If a product has different components which are manufactured or imported from a number of different countries, the
different countries must be clearly specified by appropriately marking each component with its respective country of
origin and noted in the spec sheet. For example, when importing a pendant and chain set in which the pendant was
made in Thailand and the chain made in Italy, the pendant must be permanently marked “Thailand” and the chain
permanently marked “Italy.”
For items made outside of the U.S. that are manufactured from non-precious metals, a country of origin stamp only is
required.
Each piece of an earring pair must be stamped. Fineness, trademark and country of origin stamps on earring posts
are acceptable. Clutches and other earring backs must also be stamped unless they are non-removable (e.g. lever
back). Country of origin is not required on clutch backs.
For rings, stamps should be under the shoulders or as high up on the inside of the shank as possible. Marks should
not be in the sizing area of ring shanks whenever possible.
For pendants and chains, if the pendant is removable from the chain, both pendant and chain must have
trademark/fineness stamps.
A small hidden disc/tag should be used on stretch bracelets, continuous necklaces, and items without clasps or other
applicable situations.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-16-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Metal Standards
All jewelry products manufactured from any precious metal must meet the legal requirements established by the U.S.
federal government. It is the vendor’s responsibility to understand and comply with these requirements.
HSN will periodically assay precious metal jewelry products supplied by all vendors. If the test results indicate that the
item is non-compliant, a second independent third-party laboratory will perform a second/confirming assay. If the second
assay results are also non-compliant, the entire order fails. HSN may assess a fee to the vendor for all second/confirming
assays and whenever the product tested is non-compliant.
Karat Gold
HSN has adopted the FTC guidelines for acceptable tolerance for gold fineness. For normal gold items, the tolerance is
+/- 0.003 of the stamped fineness. For items constructed with solder (e.g. bracelets), the overall tolerance is
0.007. The karat fineness of the solder may vary from the fineness of the jewelry item as long as the entire item falls
within legal tolerances when assayed. For items manufactured with minor amounts of solder, the main (unsoldered)
component is expected to fall within the normal 0.003 tolerance. Assay determinations are subject to a margin of error.
Karat
Fineness
10K
14K
18K
.4167
.5833
.7500
Minimum Acceptable
Fineness
.4137
.5803
.7470
With Solder
.4097
.5763
.743
Sample Submission
Samples for evaluation should be submitted in the following quantities based on PO size. Only one sample will be used
as
master; all others will be returned to the buyer’s office.
PO SIZE
1 - 50
51 - 150
151 - 1200
1201 - 10,000
10,000 +
QA SAMPLES NEEDED
1
2
3
4
5
• Gold (with gemstones) – three (3) mounted samples, or two (2) mounted samples and one (1) set of loose stones
that accurately reflect the full color range.
• Vendors are required to label each sample numerically, lightest to darkest, (e.g. #1, #2, #3) and retain two sets of
samples that match the QA samples. (One set sent to QA, one set for vendor, one set for factory).
• Separate samples (according to the list above) are required for all variants involving color, either metal or stone
color.
Weight Tolerance
• Benchmark weight must be put into spec sheet when submitted.
• QA samples will be weighed and checked against benchmarked weight in spec sheet.
• Stated gram weight equals finished weight not cast weight.
• Weight given is to be inclusive of any applied surfaces like enamel and gemstones.
• There is zero tolerance for items that do not meet the guaranteed minimum weight. (Average weight as supplied in
spec sheet minus 5%).
Locksheets
• Locked weights MUST be put into the spec sheet 8 business days before the ship date or on-site inspection date.
• A non-compliance fee may be assessed if locked weights are not put into the spec sheet when an item is being
inspected.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-17-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Metal Standards (Cont’d.)
Sterling Silver
•
•
•
•
All sterling silver must assay at 92.5% sterling.
For normal silver items (without solder) tolerance = .004 (e.g. 92.5% - .4% = 92.1%)
With solder tolerance = .010 (e.g. 92.5% - 1.0% = 91.5%)
As per FTC guidelines, certain findings on silver jewelry are exempt from assay considerations. Components
such as pin stems, and necklace and bracelet snappers (tongues) do not need to be sterling silver. In fact, HSN
recommends (for strength and durability), that silver pin stems not be used. Nickel Silver pin stems are
acceptable and preferred.
• The use of fine silver plate is allowed, but not required. Use of copper plated under layer is NOT allowed.
• Leather cord should be packaged separately from the silver item as it accelerates the tarnishing of the items if
they are packaged together.
Weight Tolerance
• Gram weight for generic silver chain (necklaces and bracelets without gemstones) and cuff bracelets must be put
into spec sheet when submitted.
• QA samples will be weighed and checked against weight in spec sheet.
• Stated gram weight equals finished weight, not cast weight.
• Weight given is to be inclusive of any applied surfaces like enamel and gemstones.
• There is zero tolerance for items that do not meet the guaranteed minimum weight. (Average weight as supplied
in spec sheet minus 10%).
Platinum
• If the platinum content falls below 500 parts per thousand, the term “Platinum” cannot be used.
• For items between 500 and 850 parts per thousand pure platinum combined with non-precious or base metals
you must stamp items using the percentage of each metal and the full name of each metal in the piece. (e.g. 60%
Platinum, 35% Cobalt, 5% Rhodium). The term Platinum may be used.
• For items between 500 and 850 parts per thousand pure platinum combined with other Platinum Group Metals,
you must stamp items using the amount of pure platinum and the amount of other Platinum Group Metals. (e.g.
750 Pt., 250 Rh.) The term Platinum may be used.
• When platinum content is 850 parts per thousand pure platinum, 150 parts non-precious base metals or Platinum
Group Metals, it may be referred to as “traditional platinum” (e.g. 850Plat, or 850Pt.)
• For a product to be stamped platinum it must be 950 parts per thousand pure.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-18-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Metal Standards (Cont’d.)
Combined Metals – Sterling Silver & Karat Gold
Sample Submission
Samples for evaluation should be submitted in the following quantities, based on PO size. Only one sample will
be used as master; all others will be returned to the buyer’s office.
PO SIZE
1 - 50
51 - 150
151 - 1200
1201 - 10,000
10,000 +
QA SAMPLES NEEDED
1
2
3
4
5
• Silver and gold (with gemstones) – three (3) mounted samples, or two (2) mounted samples and one (1)
set of loose stones that accurately reflect the full color range.
• Vendors are required to label each sample numerically, lightest to darkest, (e.g. #1, #2, #3) and retain
two sets of samples that match the QA samples. (One set sent to QA, one set for vendor, one set for
factory).
• Separate samples (according to the list above) are required for all variants involving color, either metal
or stone color.
• HSN reserves the right to ask that verification of assay results be uploaded into the spec sheet.
• Advertising for jewelry MUST be accurate. For further and more detailed information, please refer to the
FTC Guidelines for the Jewelry Industry, or JVC’s “The Essential Guide to the U.S. Trade in Advertising
Jewelry of Silver in Combination with Gold.”
• For items with combined metals, both the lower and higher karat of one metal, or two different metals,
must be marked on the piece and appear adjacent and equally legible and distinct (e.g. 14K & 18K, or
14K + .925).
• Items must be stamped with sterling silver or any of its designations (.925, 925, sterling silver, etc) first if
there is 50% or more of sterling silver in the item, followed by the other metal(s) used. This is true of
any metal. Whichever metal the item contains the most of, it must be stamped first in the fineness order.
• “Clad” or “bonded” means a sheet of gold over sterling silver, making the silver indistinguishable. If your
item is constructed in this manner, the amount of gold must be disclosed. The amount of gold must be
stamped as a fraction representing the proportion of the weight of gold to the entire piece. If the gold is
less than 50% (or ½) of the weight of the item, then the sterling stamp must go first. For instance:
“Sterling Silver + 1/20th 14K” or “925 + 1/15th 10K”.
Sterling Silver and Karat Gold Combinations – Order of Marks
Appearance
Metal Alloys
Example Hallmarks
Visually Distinguishable
(different metal colors)
Yellow Gold and Sterling Silver
or
Yellow Gold and White Gold
The metal with the heavier proportion of weight must
precede the other metal
(e.g. .925 & 14K)
Visually
Indistinguishable
(same metal color)
White Gold and Sterling Silver
or
Clad/Bonded items
The metal with the heavier proportion of weight must
precede the other metal. The lighter metal must also be
preceded by a fraction that represents the metal’s proportion
of the total weight of the piece (e.g. .925 & 1/5 14K)
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-19-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Metal Standards (Cont’d.)
Combined Metals – Alternative & Precious Metals
• Stamps on alternative metals combined with precious metals must follow the FTC Guidelines for Jewelry &
The National Gold and Silver Stamping Act . Order of Marks: Copper & Silver items must be stamped with
the predominant metal first followed by the secondary metal. Eg: Copper / .925, TM, COO
• Earring posts / Earring wires - plate with 14K or higher over .925 sterling post or wires to match metal color
Individual Alternative Metals
Metal
Copper - Cu
metallic element, ductile, malleable metal used as
a component of various alloys (brass and bronze)
Bronze **
alloy of predominantly copper and tin
Brass **
alloy of predominantly copper and zinc
Aluminum -Al
metallic element, light in weight, ductile, malleable,
and not readily corroded or tarnished
Pewter
malleable metal alloy, traditionally 85–99% tin, with
the remainder consisting of copper, antimony,
bismuth and lead
Tin - Sn
malleable, silvery metallic element. It is used to
coat other metals to prevent corrosion and is a part
of numerous alloys, such as soft solder, pewter,
and bronze
Pot Metal
white metal or die-cast zinc, mixture of alloys that
consist of inexpensive, low-melting point metals
used to make fast, inexpensive castings
Stainless Steel
A form of steel containing chromium, resistant to
tarnishing and rust
Palladium - Pd
rare silver-white ductile metallic element of the
platinum group, used chiefly as a catalyst and in
other alloys
Titanium - Ti
chemical element with a low density; strong,
lustrous, corrosion-resistant
Tungsten
A metallic element which is hard, brittle and
corrosion-resistant. Scratch, oxidation, and tarnish
resistant
Stamping Requirements
TM – Optional
Fineness – Not Required
COO - Required
TM – Optional
Fineness – Not Required
COO - Required
TM – Optional
Fineness – Not Required
COO - Required
TM – Optional
Fineness – Not Required
COO - Required
TM – Optional
Fineness – Not Required
COO - Required
Additional Requirements
Lead/cadmium testing
Anti Tarnish Bags
E-coat/Anti-tarnish coating
Lead/cadmium testing
Anti Tarnish Bags
E-coat/Anti-tarnish coating
Lead/cadmium testing
Anti Tarnish Bags
E-coat/Anti-tarnish coating
Lead/cadmium testing
E-coat/Anti-tarnish coating
TM – Optional
Fineness – Not Required
COO - Required
Lead/cadmium testing
TM – Optional
Fineness – Not Required
COO - Required
Lead/cadmium testing
Lead/cadmium testing
TM – Required
None
Fineness – 316L, Stainless Anti Tarnish Bags (Plated stainless steel)
Steel, S. Steel, Stainless
COO - Required
TM – Required
None
Fineness – Palladium or Pd
COO - Required
TM – Required
Fineness – Titanium or Ti
COO - Required
TM – Optional
Fineness – Tungsten
COO - Required
Lead/cadmium testing
Lead/cadmium testing
**HSN suggests that you submit the alloy recipe for bronze and brass items prior to production.
Please be aware that trade names such as “Roman Bronze” and “Jewelry Bronze” are actually brass in composition; the
actual metal used in the product must be correctly identified.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-20-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Plated Product Standards
General
HSN expects its vendors to understand and comply with the legal guidelines concerning plated products, and in particular
the minimum thickness required for certain plating designations (e.g. “gold plate,” “gold flash,” “heavy gold electroplate,”
etc.). The presence and nature of any plating must be noted on the specification sheet.
Plating thickness and fineness will be randomly tested in QA Lab and/or Fulfillment centers. All plating procedures must
be on file with the QA department. All information must be specific as to the types of metals used, as well as the plating
thickness.
Plated surfaces must be uniform in color and luster, and show no signs of peeling, cracking, tarnishing, or discoloration.
Rhodium plating must not have any brown spots. Accent plating must not “overrun” onto adjacent areas.
Use of fine silver plate is allowed, but not required. Use of copper plated under layer is NOT allowed.
Silver and/or stainless product that is plated with either gold, fine silver, or rhodium is still subject to tarnishing over time
and must be packaged in anti-tarnish packaging or include anti-tarnish strips, as noted. This includes Technibond®, as
well as generic silver product.
Vermeil
Vermeil must have no less than 100μ” / 2.5-micron gold electroplating over sterling silver. This must be noted on
the specification sheet. Vermeil must be stamped .925 fineness with the vendor’s trademark and country of origin.
It is not necessary to stamp a vermeil jewelry item with the fineness of the gold plate. Plating color must comply
with HSN standards. HSN merchandising may supply standardized color chips upon request.
Plating fineness and thickness documentation for all vermeil items must be uploaded in the spec sheet. Plating
thickness and fineness, as well as silver fineness, will be randomly tested in QA Lab and/or Fulfillment centers.
Vermeil items must be packaged with an anti-tarnish strip.
Please refer to the approved list of plating testing facilities on the next page.
Yellow Vermeil
• Color matches 14K gold chip
• 18K gold plate 100 mils thick minimum (2.5 microns)
• Color layer may be used to match color chip
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
White
• Color matches rhodium-plated color chip
• Rhodium plating 2-3 mils thick (100% Rh)
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Chocolate Vermeil
• Color matches chocolate-plated gold chip
• 18K gold plate 100 mils thick minimum
• 3-5 mils chocolate color layer plated on top
of yellow gold layers
• E-coat applied after chocolate layer
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Rose Vermeil
• Color matches 14K rose chip
• 18K gold plate 100 mils thick minimum
• Color layer may be used to match color chip
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Black Vermeil
• Color matches black-plated gold chip
• 18K gold plate 100 mils thick minimum
• 3-5 mils black color layer plated on top of yellow
gold layers
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-21-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Plated Product Standards (Cont’d.)
Approved Plating Testing Facilities
Mutual Cornell
136 Corliss St
Providence, RI 02904
Tel: (401) 274-9998
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products
Services
100 Northpointe Parkway
Buffalo, NY 14228
Tel: 716-505-3588
www.bureauveritas.com
RSTS/E&E Customer Service
SGS U.S. Testing Company
291 Fairfield Avenue
Fairfield, NJ USA 07004
Tel: 973-575-5252
www.sgs.com
UL-STR
Chuck Galuska
10 Water Street
Enfield, CT 06082
Tel: 860-749-8371 x236
Email: [email protected]
Intertek North America
Scott Larson
70 Diamond Rd.
Springfield, NJ 07081
Tel: (973) 924-2513
Email: [email protected]
Intertek Asia
Miss Cynthia Yau
11/F., Garment Centre,
576 Castle Peak Road,
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 2173 8836
Email: [email protected]
Ledoux & Company
359 Alfred Avenue
Teaneck, NJ. 07666-5755, USA.
Tel: (201) 837-7160,
Fax: (201) 837-1235
Enamel
Enamel needs to be durable, lustrous, even in thickness, free of bubbles and cracks, visually uniform, and
contained within the intended borders of the design. When the enamel is meant to be opaque, the area must be
free of thinned areas that allow the metal surface to be visible. Applied enamels require Prop 65 lead testing,
cadmium testing, if applicable, and CPSIA documentation uploads.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-22-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Technibond® Jewelry
• Base materials: sterling silver
• Technibond items must be stamped “.925” (fineness) with the vendor’s trademark and country of origin. It is not
necessary to stamp a Technibond jewelry item with the fineness of the gold plate.
• Plating color must comply with HSN standards. HSN merchandising will supply standardized color discs upon
request.
• Plating thickness and composition, as well as silver alloy composition, will be randomly tested for compliance with
this requirement in accordance with HSN requirements.
• Plated surfaces must be uniform in color, and show no signs of peeling, cracking, or tarnishing.
• Accent plating must not “overrun” onto adjacent areas.
• Technibond items must be packaged in anti-tarnish packaging or with anti-tarnish strips.
• Items must be completely dry prior to packaging.
• Plating fineness and thickness documentation for all Technibond items must be uploaded in the spec sheet.
• Please refer to the approved list of plating testing facilities on the previous page.
Technibond Yellow
• Color matches 14K gold chip
• 18K gold plate 40 mils thick minimum
• Color layer may be used to match color
chip
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Technibond Platinum
• Color matches rhodium-plated chip
• Layers:
o 3-5 mils Rhodium
o 3-5 mils Platinum
o 3-5 mils Palladium
o 40 mils Fine Silver (Ag) minimum
Technibond Rose
• Color matches 14K rose gold chip
• 18K gold plate 40 mils thick minimum
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Last updated: 8/30/2012
Technibond Black
• Color matches black-plated chip
• 18K gold plate 40 mils thick minimum
• 3-5 mils black color layer plated on top of yellow
gold layers
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Technibond Chocolate
• Color matches chocolate-plated gold chip
• 18K gold plate 40 mils thick minimum
• 3-5 mils chocolate color layer plated on top of yellow
gold layers
• E-coat applied after chocolate color
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Technibond Green
• Color matches green-plated gold chip
• 18K gold plate 40 mils thick minimum
• 3-5 mils green color layer plated on top of yellow gold layers
• E-coat applied after green color
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
-23-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Absolute™ Jewelry (including sub-categories: Victoria Wieck, Xavier, Jean Dousset, etc.)
The use of the Absolute name describes all product simulating genuine diamond colors.
• All Absolute 1mm-8mm clear, round, machine-cut CZ should be sourced from Signity/Swarovski Co. (800-4440480), HSN’s preferred resource, at the HSN negotiated price.
• All other sizes, colors, and shapes for Absolute may be sourced through Signity/Swarovski Co. (800-444-0480),
Preciosa (646-727-7024), or Lux Gems (212-725-5049).
• When ordering from Signity or Preciosa, Absolute vendors must reference the HSN PO#. Purchase confirmation
will then be forwarded directly to HSN. The stone information indicated on the product specification sheet will be
compared to the information provided by Signity/Preciosa in order to verify source and ensure compliance.
• Requests to source a CZ stone for Absolute outside of the three mentioned approved resources MUST be
approved by the Absolute buyer and HSN QA.
• For straight and tapered baguettes, there is no designated provider. However brand standards must be
maintained for Absolute stone quality with crisp, symmetrical, and uniform facets, superior polish, no chips or
nicks, and with polished girdles. Choose suppliers for baguette CZ stones carefully when sourcing, as product
will fail QA for inferior baguette CZ quality.
• On occasion, unique shapes/sizes may be purchased from sources other than Signity, Preciosa, or Lux Gems. In
these cases, sample stones must be submitted to QA for approval prior to production. If approval is given it is
understood that it is on an exception basis only.
• Colored CZs might also be exceptions to the purchasing guidelines above due to the specific color availability.
Contact your evaluator for approved color and sources.
• Absolute uses “Diamond Equivalent” to describe stone weight, rather than actual CZ weight. The vendor should
determine the diamond equivalent weight by using the conversion chart, and enter “DE weight” in the stone
section of the product specification sheet. Stone weight tolerance for Absolute is not applicable. For stone
shapes/sizes not on the conversion chart, please contact QA.
• Colored stones should be expressed as Diamond Equivalent ONLY if they are diamond look-alike colors, i.e. pink,
canary, brown, black. DE weights for these should come from the same conversion chart used for clear.
• Other colors, such as red (ruby), blue (sapphire), green (emerald), purple (Tanzanite) should be expressed as
“Gemstone Equivalent”, or GE. Contact your QA evaluator for conversion.
• Absolute jewelry must be free from all imperfections, chips, nicks, and abrasions. The faceting of Absolute
jewelry must match in size and placement to genuine diamonds.
Facet Arrangement of a Standard Round Brilliant
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-24-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Absolute™ Jewelry
ABSOLUTE CZ / DIAMOND EQUIVALENT WEIGHT CHART
CUT
ROUND
PEAR
MM SIZE
D/E WT
MM SIZE
D/E WT
CUT
MM SIZE
D/E WT
CUT
MM SIZE
D/E WT
1
1.25
1.5
1.75
2
2.25
2.5
2.75
3
0.005
0.01
0.015
0.02
0.03
0.04
0.06
0.07
0.1
EMERALD
5X3
6X4
7X5
8X6
8.5 X 6.5
9X7
10 X 8
11 X 9
12 X 10
0.25
0.5
1
1.5
2
3
4
5
6
TRILLION
3X3
3.5 X 3.5
4X4
4.5 X 4.5
5X5
5.5 X 5.5
6X6
7X7
8X8
0.1
0.15
0.25
0.35
0.5
0.75
1
1.5
2
STRAIGHT BAGUETTE
3X2
4X2
5X2
5 X 2.5
5X3
6X2
6X3
7X2
7X3
0.08
0.1
0.15
0.18
0.25
0.2
0.35
0.35
0.5
3.25
3.5
3.75
4
4.25
4.5
4.75
5
5.25
5.5
5.75
6
6.25
6.5
7
7.5
0.13
0.15
0.2
0.25
0.28
0.35
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.8
0.9
1
1.25
1.5
1.75
OVAL
5X3
6X4
7X5
7.5 X 5.5
8X6
8.5 X 6.5
9X7
10 X 8
11 X 9
12 X 10
4X2
5 X 2.5
6X3
7 X 3.5
8X4
10 X 5
0.25
0.5
0.75
1
1.25
1.5
2
3
4
5
0.1
0.15
0.25
0.35
0.5
1
SQ PRINCESS
1.5 X 1.5
1.75 X 1.75
2X2
2.25 X 2.25
2.5 X 2.5
2.75 X 2.75
3X3
3.5 X 3.5
4X4
4.5 X 4.5
5X5
5.5 X 5.5
6X6
6.5 X 6.5
7X7
8X8
0.02
0.03
0.05
0.07
0.1
0.125
0.15
0.25
0.4
0.5
0.75
1
1.25
1.5
2
3
TAPERED BAGUETTE
2.5 X 1.5 X 1
3 X 1.5 X 1
3 X 2 X 1.5
3.5 X 1.5 X 1
3.5 X 2 X 1.5
4 X 2 X 1.5
5 X 2 X 1.5
5X3X2
6X3X2
0.01
0.03
0.05
0.05
0.08
0.1
0.15
0.25
0.3
8
9
10
2
3
4
11 X 5.5
12 X 6
5X5
1.5
2
0.75
HEART
4X4
5X5
6X6
0.25
0.5
1
5X3
6X4
7X5
8X5
9X6
10 X 7
12 X 8
0.25
0.5
0.75
1
1.5
2
3
6X6
7X7
8X8
1
1.75
2.5
6.5 X 6.5
7X7
8X8
9X9
1.25
1.5
2
3
Last updated: 8/30/2012
CUT
MARQUISE
CUSHION
-25-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Absolute™ Plating
• Base materials: sterling silver and karat gold
• Absolute items must be stamped “.925” (fineness) with the vendor’s trademark and country of origin. It is not
necessary to stamp a Absolute jewelry item with the fineness of the gold plate.
• Platinum Absolute - This is a special formula. If you receive an order for this product, contact your QA product
evaluator for more information.
• Absolute items produced in sterling silver must be packaged in anti-tarnish packaging or with an anti-tarnish strip.
• For Absolute Boxing/Packaging/Romance card information, contact the buyer.
• Plating color must comply with HSN standards. HSN merchandising will supply standardized color samples upon
request.
• Plated surfaces must be uniform in color, and show no signs of peeling, cracking or tarnishing.
• Accent plating must not “overrun” onto adjacent areas.
• Plating thickness and composition, as well as silver alloy composition, will be randomly tested for compliance with
HSN requirements.
• Use of fine silver plate is allowed, but not required. Use of copper or nickel plated under layer is NOT allowed.
• Xavier and Victoria Wieck brands require rhodium plating.
Absolute Yellow and Vermeil
• Color matches 14 K gold chip
• 18 K gold plate 100 mils thick minimum (2.5
microns)
• Color layer may be used to match color chip
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
Last updated: 8/30/2012
Absolute White
• Color matches rhodium-plated color chip
• Rhodium plating 2-3 mils thick (100% Rh)
• Sub-plate is Palladium 3-5 mils (100% Pd)
-26-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Fashion Jewelry
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Minimum of one sample is required for all variants involving color—either metal or stone color.
Fashion jewelry is any jewelry manufactured from non-precious metals, usually without genuine gemstones.
List the specific type of base metal on the spec sheet, (i.e. white metal #88 or #92, brass, etc.).
Earring posts and earring wires must be made from hypo-allergenic materials or plated to prevent allergic skin
reaction.
All fashion jewelry sold on HSN must be compliant with lead and cadmium standards.
List all enamels, paint or any alternative colored material used, and complete CPSC documentation.
List information on the plating process (goldtone, rhodium, imitation rhodium, etc).
Carat weight is not required for imitation stones, millimeter size is required (“pp” sizes are not acceptable).
List the stone type (plastic, glass, CZ, etc.) and color.
Imitation stones must be glued into the mounting and/or the setting(s) straight. Tipped stones are unacceptable.
Avoid excessive use of glue; it should not be visible on the surface of the stone. Special T glue is recommended.
Softflex ® brand beading wire may be required for necklaces and beads.
Stretch Magic ™ elastic cord is required for stretch bracelets.
A trademark is not required, but a country of origin stamp is required if the item is manufactured outside the U.S.
The country of origin should be permanently stamped on each item. If a stamp is unable to be applied, a paper
hang tag may be allowed, but requires QA approval.
Handmade Jewelry
• In order for a piece of jewelry to be sold as “handfabricated” or “handmade”, the FTC states that it must be made
entirely by hand or with hand tools; it cannot be made with pre-made findings, like heads or clasps. The entire
formation from raw materials, including finishing and decoration must be done manually.
• Terms such as “handpolished”, “handfinished” or “handengraved” can be used only when the entire process was
done manually, allowing for variations in the effects created on each item.
• Some items may be handfabricated with previously made findings that they did not manufacture themselves.
These may be described as “handassembled” or “handcrafted.”
• Polishing – some variations in the polish may be allowed within each piece and from piece to piece. However,
tarnishing and fire scale are not acceptable.
• Symmetry – symmetry must be maintained with each piece subject to minor variations. A larger tolerance may
be allowed from piece to piece within a shipment. Slight variations in roundness (ring shanks, o-rings) may be
acceptable.
• Soldering – some leniency may be allowed in solder seams. They must nevertheless be smooth and neat.
Excess solder, excessive pitting, or solder “running” out of the seam are not acceptable.
• Stone setting – slight variation in the shape of prongs and bezels may be allowed as long as the security of the
setting is not compromised. Visible solder seams in bezels may be OK, but there must not be gaps or excessive
pitting in the solder.
Limited Edition Jewelry
• “Limited edition” jewelry must clearly state either on the item or within the item’s packaging the nature, extent or
duration of the limited production (e.g. “limited to 5,000 units”).
• If the item is stamped with a number (#7 of 1200, or #135), no additional limited edition declaration or
certification is required.
• If the item is not stamped with a number or the edition size, a certificate explaining the limited edition nature of
the piece is required. This certificate should state the extent of the limited edition (e.g. “limited to 5,000 units”).
• The inclusion of certificates or romance cards are encouraged for limited editions to enhance the customer
experience associated with limited edition products.
• Where the limited edition is associated with a place or event with historical or cultural significance (e.g. glass
from the Sistine chapel), a certificate of authenticity needs to be included with the product given the unique
source of the item/material.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-27-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Gemstones and CZ Standards
Clarity
Gemstones will be evaluated using “eye visible” criteria. Loupes and other magnification will be used only for defect
clarification purposes. Gemstones must be free of scratches, polishing lines, chips, cracks, and abrasions. No obvious
defects on the table, crown, girdle, or culet will be acceptable. The degree of acceptable visible inclusions will be
determined from the approved QA samples. Any gemstone with an internal or surface flaw that threatens the stone’s
structural integrity is unacceptable.
Color
Color range must be maintained for the life of the item. Color ranges for gemstones, synthetics, simulants, and organic
material cannot exceed two tones of saturation. No significant banding of color, feathers, or dark inclusions evident during
a face-up inspection will be accepted.
In a multi-stone item, gemstones of the same type must match in color/tone/intensity/saturation, clarity, polish, and luster,
unless otherwise specified. Stone color, size, and placement in samples should match production. Matching components
of a suite (earring, ring, bracelet, necklace, etc.) must match in color range.
Vendors are required to label each sample numerically, lightest to darkest (i.e. #1, #2, #3). A matching numbered set
must be retained by the vendor and manufacturing facility/factory. During the evaluation process, the QA product
evaluator, in conjunction with the buyer, will make the final decision on color ranges. If one or more of the colors are
removed from the samples by the evaluator, that particular color or colors must be removed from production.
Carat Weight
HSN’s total carat weight tolerance:
• 5% for all natural gemstones, stated in carat weight and MM sizes.
• 15% for synthetics, stated in carat weight and MM sizes.
• Jade, opals, opaque stones, and simulated stones, are measured in MM rather than total weight.
Allowable tolerance is +/- ½ MM.
• All stones must match in millimeter size.
Cut/Finish
Stones must be symmetrical and properly cut. Faceting and depth must be proportionate to the shape, size, and type of
material of the stone, and must be consistent throughout the shipment. Stone girdles must be polished. Off-center tables,
poorly cut culets, or non-parallel facet arrangements (step cuts) may be cause for rejection. Windowing of stones when
judged perpendicular to the table must be minimized.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-28-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Pearl Standards
The following seven (7) factors are used in the quality grading of pearls:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Size
Shape
Color
Luster
Surface quality
Nacre quality
Matching
All treatments, including whether the pearl is freshwater and/or cultured, must be disclosed on the online jewelry
specification sheet. Pearls must match in size (within the allowable tolerances), body color, overtone, and luster.
Individual spherical pearls or pearl strands are to be measured perpendicular to the drill hole, stated in half-millimeter size
ranges (i.e. 6.0 - 6.5mm). All must fall into the size range stated. Individual baroque and mabe pearls 8mm or larger can
have (+/-) 0.5mm tolerance from the stated millimeter size. Pearls over 10mm are allowed 1mm tolerance. Pearl strands
with round pearls 8mm or greater in diameter will have an overall length tolerance of - ¼ , + ½ inch. Use of ¾ pearls is
acceptable, provided they are set in such a manner so that the cut section is not exposed.
Blinking (being able to see the mother-of-pearl nucleus due to thin nacre) will be determined acceptable during the QA
evaluation process based on the cost of the item, and the availability of goods. At no time should this be excessive and
detract from the appeal of the item. Blisters on pearls that open up and expose the nucleus are unacceptable. Pearls must
have a smooth, iridescent finish with no evidence of peeling. Circlé pearls (indentations or ridges circling the perimeter)
must be a minimum of two-thirds of the surface or it will be considered a blemish.
Color ranges for dyed black pearls will be determined acceptable based on the established color range boards. It is
suggested that loose pearls, representing the range to be used, be submitted prior to the manufacturing of the product.
Color ranges for black Tahitian pearls will also be determined acceptable based on color range boards. However, ranges
must stay within one color series (i.e. grays, peacocks, greens, blues, and eggplant). Dyed pearls will be immersion
tested in room temperature salt water, then rested on white absorbent material.
Minimum knotting requirement for all pearl strands is one knot for every quarter section of length (4 knots per strand).
Knotting is preferred between each pearl on Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea, and spherical freshwater strands. Pearls must
be tied off at the clasp by going back through a minimum of three pearls. Pearls that are not strung must be ½ drilled and
seated on a cup and peg that is proportionate to the pearl size. The use of glue only (without cup and peg) to hold a pearl
in the mounting is unacceptable and will be rejected. Wire wrapping must be straight and neat. Ends must be tucked in.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-29-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Pearl shapes must be listed on the online jewelry specification sheet according to the following descriptions:
Round: Appears round to the eye.
Semi-Round: Appears close to round to the eye. Some might be slightly out-of-round, elongated or flattened.
Drop: (2 Quad) symmetrical, rounded, pear-shaped. May be long drop or short drop.
Baroque: Non-symmetrical shape. Will have a noticeably irregular shape.
- are
Circlé: Pearls that are ringed are considered circlé. Rings must cover at least 2/3 of the pearl; otherwise the ridges
considered a blemish.
Button: Symmetrical shape, flattened, or slightly flattened, circular shape. May be a high button or a low button.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-30-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Diamond Standards
All diamonds must match in cut, color, clarity, and size, as called for in the design.
Glue/adhesives used for the purpose of securing stones is not permitted.
Cut
• Full cuts and single cuts cannot be mixed within a piece, or within a matched set.
• Adjacent set baguettes must be proportionally cut and evenly spaced and set.
• FTC regulations require that all diamonds have a minimum of 17 symmetrically fashioned facets. Anything less
than this will be non-compliant and will be rejected.
• At the buyer’s discretion, in some instances diamonds may be used that have less than 17 facets. In such cases,
the diamonds must be referred to as “rose cut diamonds”. This applies only to certain product categories, and
must have the buyer’s approval.
• Fancy shapes: length: width ratio must profile pleasing shape. Extremely pointed marquises, high shoulders, fat
or straight wings, squat or squarish ovals/pears are unacceptable.
Color
• Diamond color will be determined by spec sheet and appraisals and verified by GIA approved color grading scale.
• Unless otherwise specified, H - I color, I1 clarity will be used in the Diamond Program. Please refer to GIA
diamond grading qualities and descriptions/definitions.
Carat Weight
• If diamond weight is stated as decimal parts of a carat (0.47), the stated figure should be accurate to the last
decimal place (could represent weight between .465-.474) rounded to 0.47 carats. Weights will be verified.
• If diamond weight is described in fractions, the fraction may represent a range of weights. If you use the fractional
method, you must disclose that the diamond weight is not exact and the reasonable range of weight for each
fraction.
1/20 Ct.
1/10 Ct.
1/8 Ct.
1/7 Ct.
1/6 Ct.
1/5 Ct.
1/4 Ct
1/3 Ct.
3/8 Ct.
1/2 Ct.
5/8 Ct.
3/4 Ct.
7/8 Ct.
1 Ct.
1 1/4 Ct.
1 1/2 Ct.
1 3/4 Ct.
2 Ct.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
can be
.04 to .06 carat
.09 to .11 carat
.12 to .13 carat
.14 to .15 carat
.16 to .17 carat
.18 to .22 carat
.23 to .29 carat
.30 to .36 carat
.37 to .45 carat
.46 to .58 carat
.59 to .68 carat
.69 to .84 carat
.85 to .95 carat
.96 to 1.10 carat
1.20 to 1.29 carat
1.45 to 1.55 carat
1.69 to 1.82 carat
1.95 to 2.05 carat
-31-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Diamond Standards (Cont’d.)
Clarity
Any stone will be rejected if determined to be structurally unsound due to the nature and location of fractures or
inclusions.
Diamond clarity will be determined by specification sheet and appraisals and verified by GIA approved clarity grading
scale:
Flawless
Show no inclusions or blemishes under 10x magnification.
Internally Flawless (IF)
Show no inclusions and only insignificant blemishes using 10x
magnification.
Very Very Slightly
Included
(VVS1 and VVS2)
Show minute inclusions that are difficult to see under 10x magnification.
Very Slightly Included
(VS1 and VS2)
Show small or minor inclusions observed somewhat easily unde r 10x
magnification (small included crystals, small clouds/feathers, group of
pinpoints).
Slightly Included
(SI1 and SI2)
Show noticeable inclusions (included crystals, clouds, feathers that are
centrally located) that are fairly easy to see under 10x mag nification, not
face up eye visible.
Included
(I1)
Show inclusions that are obvious under 10x magnification, quite visible
face up to the unaided eye, do not threaten durability.
Included
(I2)
Show inclusions that are obvious under 10x magnification, ea sily visible
face up to the unaided eye, do not threaten durability.
Included
(I3)
Show inclusions that are obvious under 10x magnification, extremely easy
to see face up with the unaided eye, may threaten durability.
Unless otherwise specified, stones will be rejected for the following:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Small chips, opens, or cavities on the table surface.
Feathers or inclusions that break the table surface.
Inclusions, feathers, chips, cavities, or breaks that threaten the durability or structure of the stone.
Severely fluorescent, oily, chalky, cloudy, milky, opaque, or dead stones.
Burned facets or abrasions.
Severely out of round or disproportionate fancy shapes.
Overly large culets, excessively thick and/or thin girdles.
Synthetic, treated, or enhanced (lasered or fracture filled) stones.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-32-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Requirements by Jewelry Type: Rings
• Must have trademark/fineness/country of origin on the upper inside shank or shoulder away from the sizing area.
• Shanks in all ring sizes must be thick enough to withstand the "pinch test“—a moderate amount of pressure
applied by human fingers to the shank side and/or bottom.
• Gold rings have a suggested minimum thickness of .8mm thick/1.4mm wide, but must be appropriate to the
styling of the piece.
• Sterling silver ring shanks must have a minimum thickness of 1mm.
• Larger sizes may require thicker shanks.
• Ring shanks must also be consistent across finger sizes.
• Shank measurements must be expressed as fractions of an inch and millimeter sizes.
• There should be no solder seams in production.
The inner circumference of the shank must be round.
i.
Edges must be smooth.
I.
• Rings should not be stretched to size. Sizing should
be done in the models.
• Please note that ring mandrels vary. It is the vendor’s
responsibility to insure that their mandrels are
consistent with U.S. standard sizes. HSN requires a
calibrated mandrel available from Romanoff Supply,
631-842-2400 item number M3-201-R.
• The ring should be dropped on the mandrel, allowing
the ring to center itself with minor pressure. The ring
should not be forced onto the mandrel.
• Sizing tolerance for rings is ¼ size up or down.
• The size is determined by the leading edge of the
shank. The leading edge is the “lower” edge or the
edge that falls first onto the mandrel.
• Rings with a band width of less than 7mm in the
sizing area will be measured at the leading edge of
the shank.
• Some allowances can be made for extra wide ring
shanks (above 7mm wide), large open-backed rings,
rolling rings, bypass, or unusual geometrically
designed shanks. Contact your evaluator in these
cases to determine the proper method to measure.
• A mandrel with a variance of +/- 1/16 size (+/- 0.002”
in diameter) from the U.S. standards is considered
acceptable.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
US STANDARD RING SIZES
Size
2
2 1/4
2 1/2
2 3/4
3
3 1/4
3 1/2
3 3/4
4
4 1/4
4 1/2
4 3/4
5
5 1/4
5 1/2
5 3/4
6
6 1/4
6 1/2
6 3/4
7
7 1/4
7 1/2
7 3/4
8
8 1/4
8 1/2
8 3/4
-33-
Diameter
Inches Millimeters
0.522
0.530
0.538
0.546
0.554
0.562
0.570
0.578
0.586
0.594
0.602
0.610
0.618
0.626
0.634
0.642
0.650
0.658
0.666
0.674
0.682
0.690
0.698
0.706
0.714
0.722
0.730
0.738
13.259
13.462
13.665
13.868
14.072
14.275
14.478
14.681
14.884
15.088
15.291
15.494
15.697
15.900
16.104
16.307
16.510
16.713
16.916
17.120
17.323
17.526
17.729
17.932
18.136
18.339
18.542
18.745
Size
9
9 1/4
9 1/2
9 3/4
10
10 1/4
10 1/2
10 3/4
11
11 1/4
11 1/2
11 3/4
12
12 1/4
12 1/2
12 3/4
13
13 1/4
13 1/2
13 3/4
14
14 1/4
14 1/2
14 3/4
15
15 1/4
15 1/2
15 3/4
Diameter
Inches Millimeters
0.746
0.754
0.762
0.770
0.778
0.786
0.794
0.802
0.810
0.818
0.826
0.834
0.842
0.850
0.858
0.866
0.874
0.882
0.890
0.898
0.906
0.914
0.922
0.930
0.938
0.946
0.954
0.962
18.948
19.152
19.355
19.558
19.761
19.964
20.168
20.371
20.574
20.777
20.980
21.184
21.387
21.590
21.793
21.996
22.200
22.403
22.606
22.809
23.012
23.216
23.419
23.622
23.825
24.028
24.232
24.435
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Requirements by Jewelry Type: Rings (Cont’d.)
The culet must never extend below the finger rest of a ring.
i.
Heads and settings must be in alignment when viewed from the top, side and edge.
I.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-34-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Requirements by Jewelry Type: Earrings
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Each half of earring pair must be stamped with fineness, trademark and country of origin.
Each earring pair should match. Asymmetrical designs should have right and left earring.
Clutch backs must also be stamped with fineness and trademark. Country of origin is not required.
Exposed culets may be allowed depending on the design.
HSN requires the following minimum dimensions: useable length can be considered as the length of the post
extending beyond the back plane of the earring.
Earring posts must be strong enough to withstand normal use. The ends should be rounded and smooth.
Ear wires on hoops should be strong enough to be able to function with the catch. Ends must be rounded
and smooth.
Earring posts should be made from the same precious metal type as the earring.
Earring posts/wires on alternative metals- plate with 14K or higher over .925 sterling or hypo-allergenic post
or wires, as applicable to product category, to match metal color.
Earring posts and earring wires on fashion jewelry must be made from hypo-allergenic materials or plated to
prevent allergic skin reaction.
HSN recommends clutch pad sizes measuring 4.5mm minimum to fit post securely.
Hoop earrings should have a gap wide enough to fit over most ear lobes with enough room to allow the hoop
to swing freely. HSN recommends a minimum gap of at least 8mm, not counting joint and catch findings.
Ear wires on hoops should be strong enough to be able to function with the catch, but not so thick that they
are difficult to wear. The ends should be rounded and smooth.
HSN requires the following minimum dimensions:
Gold
Silver
Last updated: 8/30/2012
Post Thickness
0.67 - 0.76mm
(0.0265 - 0.030 in.)
Useable Length
9.5mm
(3/8 in.)
Ear Wires on Hoops
0.75 - 1.0mm diameter
(0.029 - 0.040 in. diameter)
0.73 - 0.81mm
(0.029 - 0.0321 in.)
0.73 MM =730 µM
0.81MM = 810µM
9.5mm
(3/8 in.)
0.75 - 1.0mm diameter
(0.029 - 0.040 in. diameter)
0.75 MM = 750 µM
1.00 MM = 1000 µM
-35-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Requirements By Jewelry Type: Necklaces/Pendants/Chains/Bracelets
• Must have trademark/fineness/country of origin stamps.
• If the pendant is removable from the chain, both pendant and chain must have
trademark/fineness/country of origin stamps.
• Length tolerance for necklaces is (+/-) 1/4 inch.
• HSN will allow a tolerance of (+/-) 1/2 inch for necklaces composed of irregularly shaped stones and
beads. Bracelets will maintain the (+/-) 1/4 inch tolerance.
• Measurement is based on the “useable length” of the item. If the clasp does not contribute to the useable
length, it is not included in the measurement.
• For items sold with “extenders,” the tolerance applies only to the necklace or bracelet itself. There is no
tolerance for the extender.
• A tolerance of (+/-) 1/2 inch is allowed for necklaces composed of irregularly shaped stones and beads.
• For necklaces 36 inches or longer, the tolerance will be (+/-) 1/2 inch.
• Pendant bails must be large enough to allow the pendant to swing freely on the chain. For pendants sold
without a chain, bails must be large enough to accommodate a normal variety of customer chains.
• Necklaces/pendants constructed with colored string, dyed cord, rubber cord, or stretchable elastic must
be colorfast.
• Rubber, dyed leather, and synthetic cord requires lead testing documentation.
• All parts must be symmetrical, balanced and aligned, from front, reverse, and edge views.
• Stone culets must not extend below the bottom edge of the setting.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-36-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Requirements By Jewelry Type: Necklaces/Pendants/Chains/Bracelets (Cont’d.)
Box or barrel type clasps must have at least one figure-8 safety clasp, which must be correctly aligned. If design
will not permit, please contact QA evaluator.
Jump rings on all products must be fully closed. Jump rings on karat gold product must be soldered closed.
Spring ring must be proportionate, and the wire and tube must be aligned.
Lobster claw catches must be proportionate and the tongue and claw aligned with no gap.
Box or Hidden clasps: the tongue must fit securely in the box of the clasp, and not come out without firmly depressing the
plunger.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-37-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Requirements by Jewelry Type: Bangle Bracelets
•
•
•
•
Bangles should be manufactured using HSN “Manufacturing Size” guidelines.
1/8” (+) tolerance allowed.
Upon request, vendor will provide a pre-production metal model for buyer/QA review and approval.
Manufacturer will determine the inside circumference using HSN rolled paper measurement method.
Rolled Paper Method (Note: soft tapes should not be used as they stretch over time):
1.
2.
3.
4.
Using a rolled up piece of paper, place rolled paper inside the bangle opening.
Allow the paper to unroll against the interior wall of the bangle.
Mark the paper at the exposed edge.
Lay flat against a metal ruler (1/16th ruler), this measurement is the inside circumference in inches.
Advertised Size Term
Oval or Round Bangle Interior
Circumference With Hinges
Oval or Round Bangle Interior
Circumference Without Hinges
Petite
6 ¼” (158.75 mm)
7 ¼” (184.15 mm)
Small
6 ¾” (171.45 mm)
7 ¾” (196.85 mm)
Medium (Average)
7 ¼” (184.15 mm)
8 ¼” (209.55 mm)
Large
7 ¾” (196.85 mm)
8 ¾” (222.25 mm)
Small/Medium
7” (177.80 mm)
8” (203.20 mm)
Medium/Large
7 ½ “ (190.5 mm)
8 ½” (215.90 mm)
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-38-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Packaging, Labeling and Boxing of Jewelry
Review the Partner Supply Chain Requirements manual for carton packaging and drop test criteria. All jewelry packaging and
labeling must adhere to the guidelines outlined in that document. Please pay particular attention to the requirements governing
the size and format of bar code labels.
• The minimum box size allowed is 2.25 x 1.75 x 2.00 in order for the required label to fit.
• The cost of boxing, sleeves, and inserts is the vendor responsibility.
• Specific packaging will be communicated to the vendor on the purchase order (PO).
• It is the vendor’s responsibility to test the product in the boxing and communicate any changes to the box recipe
necessary to protect the product in transit.
• Gloves should be worn during handling and packaging, to provide final polish and insure that no fingerprints are on the
product.
• HSN QA may conduct a drop test on individual items that may be susceptible to damage during shipping from HSN to
our customers.
• HSN QA must approve specialty boxes and/or inserts not included in HSN’s standard boxing program. In the event
specialty boxing is used, the vendor may be required to supply HSN with extra boxing materials for use in our
warehouse.
• All inserts, romance cards, warranties, instructions, etc, and a sample of the boxing (if specialty box or differing from
standard box type/size) must accompany the Sample Label from the jewelry specification sheet, along with the samples,
for approval by the QA evaluator. Refer to the appropriate section under category specific standards for additional
information. For samples of HSN boxes and inserts, contact:
Interpak (Paul Kilmartin or Tanya Cordeiro)
517 Mineral Spring Ave.
Pawtucket, RI 02860
401-724-1600
http://www.interpak.com
• If pouches are specified for packaging, the jewelry items may be wrapped in white acid-free tissue paper or individual
poly-bags to protect the item from damage if specified by the QA evaluator. Pearls, however, must be wrapped in tissue
paper. The item is then placed in a pouch. The pouch is placed in a zip lock poly-bag or outer box. A label must then
be placed on the outer poly-bag or outer box.
• Labels should be placed on the bottom of the box if no sleeve is used, and on the sleeve if a sleeve is used (not
necessary on the box if it is on the sleeve).
• For orders containing multiple boxes within a SKU, the individual boxes must be placed either in a closeable outer box,
or in a sleeve, which is subsequently placed within a poly-bag (this is to insure that all items with the SKU stay together
as a unit). Label must be placed on the outer box, sleeve, or poly-bag.
• To restrict movement and prevent damage from shipping to any item(s) in boxed containers, a piece(s) of foam rubber
may need to be inserted in the box over the item. The foam rubber is available in different thickness. Also, if tie downs
should be used, they are available in two sizes: standard and long (5”). Please request tie downs when placing your
boxing order.
• Earrings with French wires or shepherd hooks may be secured to the packaging insert with rubber stoppers. Earrings
with posts and clutch backs do NOT need rubber stoppers; if used, lead test is required. These are available from:
Da Ma Inc.
25 Oakdale Ave.
Johnston, RI 02919
401-272-7722
• For pendants with a flexible chain, care must be taken to thread the chain through the slits in the corner of the pads, and
carefully gather excess chain behind the pad. Under no circumstances should chains be taped to the back of the inserts.
Tape should never come in contact with jewelry.
• Care must be taken in packaging snake chain and other less-flexible chains. In most instances, these items cannot be
packaged on foam pads, and may need to be pouched. Contact your QA evaluator to discuss.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-39-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Packaging, Labeling and Boxing of Jewelry (Cont’d.)
All silver, or plated silver items (including Technibond® and vermeil), must include anti-tarnish protection, either in
the form of square anti-tarnish tabs, or anti-tarnish poly-bags. Specific instructions as to which should be used will
be on your purchase order. Silver and/or stainless product that is plated with either gold, fine silver, or rhodium is
still subject to tarnishing over time and must be packaged in anti-tarnish packaging or include anti-tarnish strips.
Specific instructions as to which should be used will be on your purchase order. Leather cord should be packaged
separately from the silver item as it accelerates the tarnishing of the items if they are packaged together.
•
•
•
Anti-tarnish poly-bags are supplied by Intercept, 888-668-7674. http://www.interceptjewelrycare/contact/php
Anti-tarnish strips are available from Intercept, 888-668-7674. These are preferred because they are not
abrasive and will not scratch metal.
3M anti-tarnish strips are available from Whitney Worldwide, Inc., 800-597-0227 or 651-490-5000. These antitarnish strips (using activated charcoal technology) are abrasive, and should not touch the product during
shipment. They should be inserted in the side of the box to prevent scratching the product. Anti-tarnish strips
come in 1” squares. DO NOT cut these into smaller pieces. Use of anti-tarnish strips that have been cut will
cause a stoppage upon receipt.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-40-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY STANDARDS (CONT’D.)
Vendor QC Checklist: Jewelry
• Item matches QA sample (color, size, configuration)
QA Sample
• Applied finishes (antique, rhodium accent, enamel) match sample
• Polish is clean and shiny (no pits, scratches, tool marks, porosity, fire scale on silver)
Finish
• No fingerprints, dirt, polishing compound, glue ,or residue
• No excess solder (if applicable)
• Fineness/trademark/country of origin stamps present and legible
Stamps
• Country of origin stamp (if applicable) legible (hangtags must be approved by QA)
• Lobster claw and spring rings open and snap closed
• Leverbacks spring closed and align with ear wire
• Earring clutches are secure, but easy to remove
Findings
• Box clasps – tongue snaps closed and will not pull out without depressing plunger
• Safety clasps click closed and are easy to open
• Pin joint and catch closure operates smoothly and securely
• Ear wire joint – wire closes securely and opens easily
• Ring sizes within tolerance of +/- ¼ size (leading edge)
Dimensions
• Bracelets, necklaces within tolerance of +/- ¼ inch
• Lowest observed carat weight ____________(Stone weight is within tolerance)
• Color/Clarity match QA samples
• Piece or pair matches in color, size, lefts/rights
Stones
• Prongs are set straight and secure over stone in size and height (no loose stones)
• Stones are set straight
• Bezels clean (no ragged edges)
• No excess glue (glue not allowed in setting gemstones)
• HSN number, variant match PO
• Labels are clean, readable and in the proper size for the box
Labeling
• Proper number of labels – refer to Jewelry Product Standards Manual
• Bar code labels can be scanned and are consistent with HSN requirements
• Item secure on pad or in box (won’t move in transit)
• Packaging consistent with PO (unless directed by QA)
Packaging
• Excess pendant chain in envelope; envelope taped closed
• Warranty and Romance cards enclosed (if applicable)
• Boxes clean
• Anti-tarnish strips enclosed (all silver or silver-plated product)
Note: These guidelines are to assist you in conducting your own product inspections prior to HSN inspections, either
on-site or in our warehouse. They do not represent all of HSN product standards. The vendor should study the content of
the HSN Jewelry Product Standards Manual and the HSN Partner Supply Chain Requirements Manual .
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-41-
SAMPLE SUBMISSION
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
SAMPLE SUBMISSION PROCESS
Purpose and Scope of the Quality Assurance Evaluation
Prior to purchase, an evaluation will be performed in our QA laboratory on samples submitted by the vendor.
Because testing performed during the evaluation process can be destructive in nature, samples submitted for
evaluation may not be returned to the vendor.
In all cases, QA samples must be exact representations of production. By submitting a QA sample, the vendor is
making a commitment that the production will match the sample. Samples that are dirty, nicked, etc. (from a
sample line, for example) are not acceptable. In addition, the samples will be closely reviewed for mounting finish,
stone setting, color range, plating finish and thickness, trademarks, fineness marks, country of origin stamping,
and all other manufacturing processes. If the vendor anticipates variation in product, multiple samples which
demonstrate the range should be submitted. At the conclusion of the evaluation, QA will provide the vendor with
approval, changes, or a rejection notification.
Unless otherwise noted, jewelry items are inspected without magnification. Variations from the standards will be
considered defects based upon observation with the unaided eye. Magnification may be used for clarification
purposes only after a defect has been detected.
For items with stones HSN requires that the vendor and/or the manufacturing facility, keep an exact replica of the
sample stones’ color range for reference during manufacturing and maintained for reorders. They must be
numbered in the same sequence as the samples, lightest to darkest (#1, #2, #3). If one or more of the colors are
removed from the samples by the evaluator, that particular color or colors must be removed from production.
Stones are tested based on the description provided on the online jewelry specification sheet. At QA’s discretion,
the vendor may be asked to submit a certified gemological laboratory report to conclusively identify the nature of a
stone.
Standard ring sizes for sample submission are size 7 for ladies rings, size 10 for men’s rings.
Items with Variants:
• Separate samples (according to the list above) are required for all variants involving color—either
metal or stone color.
• If the stone count varies, each size should be submitted.
• For length variants, individual samples are not required. The longest length should be submitted as
the sample.
• Separate specification sheets for all variants—both length and color, are required.
Reorder Items:
• New samples are generally not required, as the product, including the materials, design, construction,
metal color, appearance, measurements, features, findings, as well as vendor-supplied packaging and
literature are expected to remain the same as the original order.
• For items with colored stones, the initial color range established with QA is expected to remain
constant over the life of the item. In the event that a color range must shift due to changes in supply,
consult with your merchandising partner and QA.
Showroom Samples:
• Samples that are sent to Showroom must match the approved color range of the QA master samples
and production.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-43-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
SAMPLE SUBMISSION PROCESS (CONT’D.)
Lead Times for Domestic And Import Purchase Orders – Jewelry
QA samples and Partner Portal product specifications must be must be submitted according to the following schedule. At
the discretion of HSN, if samples are not delivered to QA by the required date, HSN may cancel the order or require a new
ship date, a new delivery date, and/or a new show date.
Product type
QA sample and product specification sheet leadtime
Jewelry
28 days before ship date
Additional key milestones are outlined in Appendix B of the HSN Partner Supply Chain Requirements Manual.
https://view.hsn.net/WebDocuments/documents/9-Appendix.pdf
Maintaining proper timing of the QA process is important to ensure proper review of QA samples, specifications and
proposed product claims. Failure to comply with the required lead time standards can result in fees for late QA samples.
The Compliance section of the HSN Supply Chain Requirements Manual outlines the fees associated with late QA
samples.
https://view.hsn.net/WebDocuments/documents/8-Compliance.pdf
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-44-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
SAMPLE SUBMISSION PROCESS (CONT’D.)
Jewelry Specification Sheet
The online jewelry specification sheet can be found at our Partner Portal website: https://view.hsn.net. A completed online
jewelry specification sheet must be submitted for each item purchased by HSN. The accuracy and completeness of
information on this online form is critical to a timely and successful sample submission. If the spec sheet is not properly filled
out with all pertinent information, the evaluation will not proceed.
In addition to the item samples, you will be required to include:
• A “Sample Label”, printed from the online jewelry specification sheet and attached to the sample. A printed version
of the entire specification sheet is NOT required.
• Certificates and/or appraisals, if applicable.
• All inserts, romance cards, instructions, warranties, and applicable required test results (lead, cadmium, plating
thickness), gemological lab testing, must be included with your sample and uploaded to the online jewelry
specification sheet for the buyer and QA to approve.
• Bead/stone stringing material (This information should be added to the “Material” section of the spec sheet within the
TEXT BOX under “Other material not listed above”). Please include the name of the manufacture/supplier, material
(example Softflex, Stretch Magic), gauge, etc.
• A photo image of the item showing all angles, components ,and full color range must be uploaded and attached to
the online jewelry specification sheet.
• A listing of proposed on-air claims with complete substantiation.
• Trademark information, either application or registration (if not already on file). Trademark must be registered in the
U.S. Attach an image of your trademark to the online jewelry specification sheet.
• If item has a trademark other than the vendor’s, submit a letter of authorization to use the trademark from the owner.
Attach a copy of the letter to the online jewelry specification sheet.
• Boxing samples (if specialty box or not standard box type/size).
• For Licensed products, the vendor must provide a copy of the license agreement containing:
1. Term: The period of time the licensee is authorized to sell the product.
2. Distribution Channels : Specifically, are television shopping channels and internet sales as well as use
on HSN2 and HSN’s social media channels (YouTube, Twitter, etc.) included?
3. Territory: Specifically, is the U.S. included?
4. Product ID: Is the vendor providing products that are specifically identified in the license agreement?
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-45-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
SAMPLE SUBMISSION PROCESS (CONT’D.)
Jewelry Specification Sheet (Cont’d.)
Gemstone Identification and Treatment Disclosure
It is the vendor’s responsibility to fully disclose whether a gemstone is natural, synthetic or simulated, manmade or
assembled, or has been treated or enhanced in any manner. Please note that the “FTC Guidelines for the Jewelry, Precious
Metals and Pewter Industries” have been revised (as of December 1, 2000) to include additional requirements concerning
disclosure of treatments to gemstones.
The FTC guides (section 23.22) now state that it is deceptive to fail to disclose treatments that:
• are not permanent
• create special care requirements
• are permanent, and have a significant effect on the stone’s value
A note to section 23.22 makes it clear that these guides apply at every level of trade. HSN expects its vendors to fully
comply with these new guidelines, and disclose alltreatments and enhancements, unusual care, or claims concerning the
gemstone in the jewelry specification sheet.
All gemstone enhancements must be permanent and stable.
When filling out the Gemstone Identification and Treatment Disclosure areas of the jewelry specification sheet, make sure
that you fill out the following areas completely in order for the evaluation to proceed:
• Stone: Indicate stone type and whether natural, synthetic, simulated, manmade, etc.
For fashion jewelry, fill in the gemstone section with stone color, dimensions, and quantity, plus the nature of the
material i.e. glass, plastic, crystal, CZ, etc.
• Country of Mining (gemstones), Origin (pearls/cameos), Harvest/Collection (amber) Cameos: Enter “country
of mining/origin” where shell is harvested, list “country where shell is carved” in the comments field of the stone
information section.
If requested by QA, or if the item description is to include stone origin (i.e. Thai ruby), the vendor must provide
proper certification and substantiation of the country of origin.
• Supplier: Name(s) of stone supplier(s), if not vendor (list supplier name for each stone).
• Treatment Disclosure: List all permanent and non-permanent treatments. It is the vendor’s responsibility to
disclose gemstone composition and all treatments or enhancements. If there is no treatment, enter “none.” QA will
verify all disclosed treatments.
All samples submitted to HSN Quality Assurance that are represented to contain turquoise or turquoise
components are required to have lab testing. This is for any and all turquoise, mined either domestically or abroad.
You will need to submit GIA lab results along with the actual tested stone to HSN QA before the item can be
approved.
All samples submitted to HSN Quality Assurance that are represented to contain quartz gemstone material not
identified as simulated or synthetic are required to have lab testing to confirm natural origin. The varieties of
natural quartz that require testing include amethyst, citrine, clear quartz, milky quartz, rose quartz, and smoky quartz.
You will need to submit GIA lab results along with the actual tested stone to HSN QA before the item can be
approved. Please note that destructive testing may be performed.
If a new gemstone or organic material not previously sold by HSN is being supplied, vendors will be required to supply
an identification report to support the gemstones’ authenticity. This report can be from GIA (Gemological Institute of
America), EGL (European Gemological Laboratory), or a similar recognized laboratory.
All gemstones will be tested in-house; additional lab testing may be required of the vendor.
Any enhancements must be disclosed per FTC guidelines and will be verified by QA.
HSN may, at its discretion, require lab certification of any gemstone at any time.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-46-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
SAMPLE SUBMISSION PROCESS (CONT’D.)
Sample Disposition
HSN’s operations/traffic department will not issue authorization to ship product until the evaluation process has been
completed and the samples have been approved by QA. Should samples fail the evaluation stage, the QA product
evaluator will inform you of the necessary corrections, and may require an additional sample submission to verify the
corrections have been made. Upon Completion of an evaluation, a written Evaluation Report will be sent to the vendor via
e-mail. It is the vendor’s responsibility to read all the comments and make necessary product changes as noted, prior to the
on-site inspection or shipment to HSN Fulfillment. Generally speaking, samples will not be returned to the vendor.
•
Received
A physical product sample has been received, but the product specification sheet has not been submitted by the
vendor partner and/or approved by the HSN Merchandising team. An evaluation in Received status requires
submission and approval of the product specification sheet prior to initiation of the formal QA evaluation process.
• Pending
Sample has been received in QA, but not evaluated or dispositioned.
• Approved Pending
Samples will be placed in Approved Pending status if the only remaining open issue is the on-site inspection . The
Evaluation report (Production Inspection section) will indicate on-site inspection is required. Upon completion of the
on-site inspection and receipt of passing Field Inspection Report, the item will be placed in Approved status and
allowed to ship.
• Approved
If a sample is Approved, the vendor can assume that manufacturing of the product can proceed and the product can
be shipped. QA comments/issues communicated in the Evaluation Report must be addressed and corrected prior to
shipment. QA approved master samples, along with the comments from the Evaluation Report, will be sent to the
jewelry inspection team at HSN Fulfillment, to be used during inbound product inspections. They will be held in
archive for future reference. Every 12 months, the jewelry QA samples may, at HSN’s discretion, be returned to the
vendors if HSN does not plan to reorder the item.
• Rejected
If a sample is Rejected, the Evaluation Report will indicate the reason(s) for rejection.
If the reason for rejection is missing information (documentation, lab testing results, etc), the disposition will be
revised once the missing information is received.
If the reason for rejection is a quality issue(s), the buyer and/or QA product evaluator, depending on the extent of the
reasons for rejection, will discuss the modifications required with the vendor. In some cases a new sample with
changes will be requested.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-47-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
MEASUREMENTS
How to Measure by Jewelry Type
• Measurement by 1/16th inch fractions (flat ruler, soft tape, millimeter gauge).
• When measuring an item, if measurement does not fall exactly on the measurement line, you must
round down to the nearest 1/16th increment.
Rings
Shank measurements must be expressed as fractions of an inch andmillimeter in the spec sheet.
Earrings
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-48-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
MEASUREMENTS (CONT’D.)
How to Measure by Jewelry Type (Cont’d.)
Necklaces/Pendants/Chains/Bracelets
Measurement is based on the “useable length” of the item. If the clasp does not contribute to the useable length, it
is not included in the measurement. Include the length of extender, if applicable. For multi-chain designs, count the
shortest length as the actual length measurement. For items with box or barrel type clasps, do not include the
tongue (snapper) in the overall measurement.
unusable length
useable length
For items with spring rings or lobster claws, measure total length (end to end), minus the thickness of the
spring ring or lobster claw “hook.”
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-49-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
MEASUREMENTS (CONT’D.)
How to Measure by Jewelry Type (Cont’d.)
Necklaces/Pendants/Chains/Bracelets (Cont’d.)
For items with toggle closures.
Bangles and Cuffs
Rolled Paper Method (Note: soft tapes should not be used as they stretch over time):
1.
2.
3.
4.
Using a rolled up piece of paper, place rolled paper inside the bangle opening.
Allow the paper to unroll against the interior wall of the bangle.
Mark the paper at the exposed edge.
Lay flat against a metal ruler (1/16th ruler), this measurement is the inside circumference in inches.
• Cuffs should have a minimum opening/gap of 1” (length includes gap measurement).
• Cuffs should be designed in such a way so that if squeezed for adjustment by the customer, stones do not
become loose.
Pin/Brooch
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-50-
WATCH STANDARDS
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
WATCHES
Sample Submission
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Completed spec sheet.
Boxing must accompany the QA sample.
Sleeve & tuck carton with label.
Include all applicable inserts: Warranty, instructions, depth/water resistance chart (not required for nationally
recognized brands) and romance cards.
Crystal protector if needed.
Anti-tarnish strips/anti-tarnish poly-bags, if required.
Watches: minimum of one (1).
Gemstone watches: minimum of two (2), plus a set of loose stones from production, number samples, lightest to
darkest, (e.g. #1, #2, #3).
Prototypes/Cosmetic Samples maybe submitted with prior QA approval.
QA may request additional samples if needed at anytime during the evaluation process.
Lead Times for Domestic and Import Purchase Orders
QA samples and Partner Portal product specifications must be must be submitted according to the following schedule. At
the discretion of HSN, if samples are not delivered to QA by the required date, HSN may cancel the order or require a new
ship date, a new delivery date, and/or a new show date.
Product Type
QA Sample and Product Specification Sheet Leadtime
Watches
21 days before ship date
Additional key milestones are outlined in Appendix B of the HSN Partner Supply Chain Requirements Manual.
https://view.hsn.net/WebDocuments/documents/9-Appendix.pdf
Maintaining proper timing of the QA process is important to ensure proper review of QA samples, specifications and
proposed product claims. Failure to comply with the required lead time standards can result in fees for late QA samples.
The Compliance section of the HSN Supply Chain Requirements Manual outlines the fees associated with late QA
samples.
https://view.hsn.net/WebDocuments/documents/8-Compliance.pdf
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-52-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
WATCHES (CONT’D.)
General Requirements
Prop 65/Cadmium/CPSIA
• All components must be compliant, and required documentation uploaded into spec sheet. Please refer to the
Legal requirements section in the Jewelry Standards section of the manual.
Documentation
• Trademark registration/application documentation required.
• License agreements -the vendor must provide a copy of the license agreement containing (may blackout any
sensitive and financial information on HSN's copy.)
1. Term: The period of time the licensee is authorized to sell the product.
2. Distribution Channels : Specifically, are television shopping channels and internet sales as well as use
on HSN2 and HSN’s social media channels (YouTube, Twitter, etc.) included?
3. Territory: Specifically, is the U.S. included?
4. Product ID: Is the vendor providing products that are specifically identified in the license agreement?
• Music Release (any watch that plays music must have a musical release).
Inserts/Warranties
• Instructions: How to set and/or use the watch.
• Warranty: Should state water resistance if applicable, length of warranty period, limits , instructions where to send
and cost for service, approximate return time.
MANUFACTURER’S LIMITED WARRANTY
“NAME OF COMPANY” warrants the “NAME OF ITEM” shall be free of defects in material and workmanship for a
period of “LENGTH OF WARRANTY PERIOD” from date of purchase.
The warranty does not apply to “PARTS OF THE ITEM NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY,” normal wear and
tear or abuse or if the product has been altered in any way.
In the event of a defect in material or workmanship within the warranty period, send the item postage prepaid and a
check in the amount of “$$$” to cover return shipping and handling to:
NAME OF COMPANY
STREET
CITY, STATE, ZIP CODE
The item will be repaired or replaced at our discretion and returned within “TIME PERIOD IN NUMBER OF
WEEKS” of receipt.
You can contact the manufacturer at “1-800-000-0000” for information on the status of your item.
Any unauthorized service of the item will void the warranty. No additional charge will be necessary unless
additional servicing for reason beyond our control or as a result of accident, misuse, neglect or other reason
outside the scope of the warranty. Customers will be notified of this charge, should it exist, prior to servicing.
This warranty gives you specific rights, and you may have other rights, which vary from state to state.
Required Stamps: Case, Band, Movement
•
•
•
•
Trademark – name/stamps required on dial or case back where watch and case are manufactured.
Quality hallmarks required on case back and band, if applicable.
Precious metal: fineness and registered trademark.
Country of origin
• Case and band: HSN requires that the case and band be stamped with the country of origin. The marks
should be as permanent as possible, hand tags are only allowed on an exception basis (the case stamp
will cover the band if it is the same country of origin).
• No factory price tags are allowed.
• Movement: the country of origin for the movement must be permanently marked. It may be printed in
very small letters at the bottom of the face at six o’clock, on the back or inside on the movement.
Note: Other disclosures are printed inside the watch.
• Genuine leather bands must be hot stamped “GENUINE LEATHER.”
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-53-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
WATCHES (CONT’D.)
General Requirements (Cont’d.)
•If shock-resistant, the word “SHOCK-RESISTANT” must be marked on the watch. The vendor must substantiate
the product successfully withstands ISO 1413 Shock Resistant Standards.
•If water-resistant, the word “WATER-RESISTANT” must be marked on the watch, stamped on case back or marked
on dial with depth (not required for nationally recognized brands). The vendor must substantiate the product
successfully withstands ISO 6425 Water Resistant Watch Standards listed below. Water-resistant chart should be
included with the watch (not required for nationally recognized brands).
Water resistance rating
Suitability
Remarks
No indication
Not resistant to splashing or other accidental contact
with moisture of any kind.
NOT suitable for diving.
Water Resistant or 30 m
Suitable for everyday use. Splash/rain resistant. NOT
suitable for swimming, snorkeling, water related work
and fishing.
NOT suitable for diving.
Water Resistant 50 m
Suitable for swimming, white water rafting, nonsnorkeling water related work, and fishing.
NOT suitable for diving.
Water Resistant 100 m
Suitable for recreational surfing, swimming, snorkeling,
sailing and water sports.
NOT suitable for diving.
Water Resistant 200 m
Suitable for professional marine activity and serious
surface water sports.
Diver's 100 m
Minimum ISO standard (ISO 6425) for scuba diving at Diver's 100 m and 150 m watches
depths NOT suitable for saturation diving.
are generally old(er) watches.
Diver's 200 m or 300 m
Suitable for scuba diving at depths NOT suitable for
saturation diving.
ATM
This value is intended to represent the mean
atmospheric pressure at mean sea level at the latitude
of Paris, France, and as a practical matter, truly
reflects the mean sea level pressure for many of the
industrialized nations (those with latitudes similar to
Paris).
DEPTH CONVERSION
FEET
100
160
300
660
1000
1650
Last updated: 8/30/2012
ATM
3
5
10
20
30
50
METERS
30
50
100
200
300
500
-54-
NOT suitable for diving.
Typical ratings for contemporary
diver's watches.
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
WATCHES (CONT’D.)
Product Requirements
General
•
•
•
•
•
•
Watch operates as intended.
Stampings: All marks must be present and legible.
Trademark name on dial must be spelled correctly.
Accessories must fit or operate as intended.
Hang tags must be approved by HSN QA.
No factory price tags allowed.
Case
• All components must fit the case properly. (Case back, crystal, spring bars/pins).
• Case cover must seat correctly.
• “Water-resistant” stamped on case back or marked on dial with depth (not required for nationally recognized
brands).
• Precious metal fineness and registered trademark required.
• Shock resistant testing documentation required.
• Use of term “Waterproof” not acceptable.
• Crown must be easily accessible.
• Crown pulls out or pushes in for adjustments; should not pull out of case or unscrewed off.
• If it is a screw-in crown, it should be threaded properly so that it operates with ease.
• Buttons perform as intended (don’t stick or bind).
• Plating or enamel must be completely and evenly applied, no chips or cracks.
Case Dimensions
• Length: including lugs.
• Width: including crown.
• Height: measure from back of case to top of crystal.
Dial
•
•
•
•
Dial markers should be attached securely, not loose or falling off.
Misspelling: dial, Roman numerals, case/band country of origin, leather.
Hands must move freely, look at hour, minute and second hand.
Date feature should change easily, no sticking.
Movement
• Set the watch.
• Special Features (alarm, chronograph, date feature, day feature, dual time zone, musical, perpetual calendar,
tachymeter/tachometer, etc.) must all function properly.
• Test the instructions.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-55-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
WATCHES (CONT’D.)
Product Requirements (Cont’d.)
Band/Strap
• Clasp must function with ease; extra clasp easy to add/remove.
• Holes in band/strap can not be too small, must be evenly spaced and punched all the way through and
consistent within production.
• Genuine leather must be hot stamped “Genuine Leather.”
• If leather is dyed, Prop 65 lead testing is required.
• No glue residue or odor.
• Leather and fabric colorfast.
• Band should not pull away from case.
• Tug on the watchband to make sure it is secure.
• Lugs should be drilled with a deep enough hole to accommodate the pins.
• Pins must be the correct length.
• Band must fit correctly - not too loose or too snug.
• Stretch: filament is preferred, not string; must be durable.
• Beaded straps must be strung properly.
• Safety catches open and snap closed with ease.
• Plating or enamel must be completely and evenly applied, no chips or cracks.
Stone
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Confirm stone identity.
Watch for loose stones or missing stones.
Stones free of glue residue.
Stones set properly (prongs and bezels).
Stones (not genuine) that are glued showing excess glue, or improper fit.
No excess glue (glue not allowed in setting faceted gemstones).
No broken or chipped stones.
Extras
•
•
•
•
Bezel: extra bezels easy to add/remove.
Pocket watches/Cover Dial watches function as intended.
Watch fob/chain fit/attaches to accompanying item.
Pendant watches: dial positioned correctly.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-56-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
WATCHES (CONT’D.)
Packaging, Labeling and Boxing Requirements
• Boxing: Sleeve, tuck carton, PB10 available in two sizes:
o PB10-7 strap watches and metal watches that measure 7" or less.
o PB10-8 strap watches and metal watches that measure 8" or less.
• The HSN approved watch box may be purchased from Interpak:
Interpak (Paul Kilmartin or Tanya Cordeiro)
517 Mineral Spring Ave.
Pawtucket, RI 02860
401-724-1600
http://www.interpak.com
• Vendor Specialty boxing must be QA approved.
• Item secure on pad or in box and won’t move in transit.
• Crystal protectors should be correct size to fit the crystal.
• Crystal protectors are only needed if packaging does not protect the crystal.
• Crystal protectors not needed if using PB10 watch box or vendor specialty box with foam.
• Use foam on top of the watch for packaging.
• Watch should fit on the cuff.
• Factory tags/bar codes with prices must be removed.
• Hang tag: QA approval needed.
• Instructions, if applicable.
• Warranty (warranty period/current address for warranty repair).
• Water resistant watches must have depth chart (not required for nationally recognized brands).
• Romance Cards, if applicable.
• Anti-tarnish strip/anti-tarnish poly-bags, if required (silver, plated silver and Technibond®).
• Labels: proper number and size.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-57-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
WATCHES (CONT’D.)
Vendor QA Checklist: Watches
• Item matches QA sample (color, size, configuration)
• Applied finishes (antique, rhodium accent, enamel, etc.) are uniform
• Polish is clean and shiny (no pits, scratches, tool marks, porosity, fire scale on silver)
• Plating uniform in color, with no signs of peeling, cracking, or tarnish
• No fingerprints, dirt, polishing compound, glue, or residue
Workmanship
• No excess solder
• Dial markers must be secure
• Lobster claw and spring rings open and snap closed
• Box clasps – tongue snaps closed and will not pull out without depressing plunger
• Safety clasps click closed and are easy to open
• Watch straps and case measurements must be consistent with spec sheet
• Consistency in length, number, and placement of holes
• Trademark name on dial – check spelling on dial
Stamps
• Fineness/trademark/country of origin stamps present and legible
• Genuine leather bands must be hot -stamped “Genuine Leather”
• Water resistance stamped on case back or marked on dial with depth
• Lowest observed carat weight ____________ (Stone weight is within tolerance)
Stones
• Prongs are set straight and secure over stone in size and height (no loose stones)
• Bezels clean (no ragged edges)
• No excess glue (glue not allowed in setting gemstones)
• HSN number, variant match PO
Labeling
• Labels clean, readable and proper size for box
• Proper number of labels – refer to Jewelry Product Standards Manual
• Bar code labels can be scanned, and are consistent with HSN requirements
• Packaging consistent with PO, QA approval for vendor specialty boxing required
• Item secure on pad or in box (won’t move in transit)
• Boxes, sleeves and tuck cartons clean and in good condition
• Proper size crystal protectors present and centered if required by evaluator)
Packaging
• Anti-tarnish strips enclosed (all silver or silver-plated product)
• Factory tags with price must be removed
• Instructions included (if applicable)
• Warranty card must include current address for the warranty period and for repair returns
• Water-resistant watches must include a depth chart
• Romance cards enclosed (if applicable)
Note: These guidelines are to assist you in conducting your own product inspections prior to HSN inspections, either
on-site or in our warehouse. They do not represent all of HSN product standards. The vendor should study the content of
the HSN Jewelry Product Standards Manual and the HSN Partner Supply Chain Requirements Manual.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-58-
PRODUCT INSPECTION
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
PRODUCT INSPECTION
Inspection
• Final Inspection is the last step in the HSN QA program, and gives HSN the opportunity to take one final look at the
finished product before it is shipped to our customers. Inspectors verify that the production matches the QA master
sample(s) and determines whether the product meets all of HSN’s specifications and quality and shipping
requirements. Additionally, gram weight, carat weight, and total quantity of the shipment will be verified.
• The approved master samples, along with the comments from the Evaluation Report, will be sent to the jewelry
inspection sites, either at the HSN warehouse, or on-site at the vendor location. Master samples must be returned
to the HSN warehouse where they will be archived for future reference. Every 12 months, the jewelry QA samples
may be returned to the vendors if HSN does not plan to reorder the item.
• A Final Inspection can occur On-Site before the vendor ships product, at the manufacturing facility, or any other
location where the goods are staged prior to shipping to HSN Fulfillment. A Final Inspection can also occur at the
HSN Fulfillment upon receipt of the shipment.
• All jewelry and gemstones are inspected with the unaided eye at a “bent elbow” distance, which is approximately six
(6) to twelve (12) inches from the eyes. Inspectors look for defects that are detectable without magnification. Vision
is assumed to be 20/20, and color vision is assumed to be normal. Inspectors do not use magnification to detect
defects, they may use a 10X jeweler’s loupe or 2X to 5X glasses to obtain a clearer view of an eye-visible feature
such as a hallmark, or to better understand the nature of a defect.
• Gloves should be worn during handling and packaging, to provide final polish and insure that no fingerprints are on
the product.
On-Site Inspection
• HSN may elect to send a Field Inspector to the vendor facility to inspect product prior to shipment to HSN
Fulfillment. We have domestic inspection resources covering all of the U.S., as well as international inspectors in
Asia and Europe. HSN’s on-site inspection program is considered an extension of fulfillment center QA. The same
policies and inspection procedures will be observed. As with fulfillment center inspections, product will normally be
inspected on-site according to a statistical sampling plan. HSN may choose to deviate from this plan at its own
discretion.
• Information, criteria, fee schedules, and instructions for on-site inspection scheduling can be found on the Partner
Portal in the Partner Supply Chain Requirements Manual and in On-site Scheduling Instructions.
• All revisions , cancellations, and/or date changes must be updated by the vendor though the Partner Portal.
• If the product will not be ready at the scheduled time, the vendor must contact HSN and update the inspection
request form in the HSN Partner Portal. The vendor may be charged penalties and expenses.
• Field Inspectors will inspect only the merchandise that is being sold to HSN and/or its affiliates.
• The inspection criteria will be a combination of HSN approved master sample(s) or digital images, the specification
sheet, and item notes.
• The Field Inspector will breakout stones, or have the vendor breakout stones, to verify carat weight. If there is a
weight discrepancy with the carat weight given on the online jewelry specification sheet, the QA product evaluator
must be contacted for resolution. Loose stones provided by the vendor are not acceptable.
• One sample of on-site breakouts may be sent to St. Petersburg for laboratory testing.
• If the carat weight is not to be aired or provided in the notes, the Field Inspector may elect not to require a breakout
for weight verification.
• For gold items, the Field Inspector will verify gram weight. If there is a weight discrepancy with the weight given on
the online jewelry specification sheet, the QA product evaluator must be contacted for a resolution.
• Samples may be pulled for plating thickness testing.
• At the conclusion of each vendor inspection visit, the Field Inspector will complete a QA Field Inspection Report
explaining the results of the inspection visit. The vendor must also sign the inspection report.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-60-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
PRODUCT INSPECTION (CONT’D.)
In-Process Inspection
• In-process inspections are required for all Today’s Special POs. This should be requested when each color-way
listed on the PO is approximately 10% produced, but no more than 25% complete. Please discuss with your
evaluator at what stage of completion your particular product should be for the in-process to occur.
• The purpose of an in-process inspection is to help our vendor partner to identify potential problems early enough in
the manufacturing process to allow them to be resolved and the quality of the product improved.
• The in-process inspection procedures are to be used in conjunction with the final inspection procedures outlined
above.
Disposition
• Please review the Partner Supply Chain Requirements Manual (QA Process, On-site Inspection) for compete
details of dispositions, shipping, and fees that may apply.
• Reduced quantities must receive approval of merchandising department prior to acceptance.
• If the merchandise has been inspected and approved by the Field Inspector, the vendor must:
o Print or stamp “on-site inspected” on the exterior of each box before shipping the order to the Fulfillment
Center.
o Enclose a copy of the QA Field Inspection Report on top of the merchandise, in each carton, where it can
easily be seen upon opening.
o STR will fax the inspection report to Corporate and Fulfillment QA. Fax numbers are at the top right of the Field
Inspection Form.
Fulfillment Inspection
• Please review the Partner Supply Chain Requirements Manual (QA Process, Fulfillment QA) for compete
details on fulfillment inspections, dispositions, stoppages, and vendor chargebacks.
Jewelry Refurbishment and Restocking
• In the ongoing effort to minimize costs both to HSN and our suppliers, customer returns for jewelry product
are internally re-worked by HSN. In order to cover these costs, a $0.15 per unit surcharge on every item
purchased is deducted from each invoice.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-61-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
PRODUCT INSPECTION (CONT’D.)
Vendor Preparations for On-Site Inspections
QA samples may be sent to the vendor’s facility prior to the on-site inspection. Should a package, addressed to the onsite Field Inspector, be mailed to your address with the master samples enclosed, do not open this package. If the
package is opened, HSN has the right to cancel the on-site inspection and ask for additional samples to be submitted to
the QA product evaluator.
• Vendor must self-inspect 100% of all jewelry merchandise and prepare for final inspection.
• Final inspection items must be 100% completed, and a maximum of 5% packed & labeled, and ready by 9 AM the
morning of the scheduled inspection date. (Note: Due to the fact that product inspected overseas will typically not
be boxed, the boxing requirements noted will not be applicable).
• All colored gemstone items must be in trays for 100% inspection of color range compliance.
• Vendors must provide the Field Inspector with the following items to conduct the inspection:
1. A well lit, secured room with ample table space.
2. A white fluorescent lamp.
3. A calibrated diamond carat scale and/or gram scale large enough to accommodate bulk gold orders, if
applicable, and readability up to 0.01.
4. A jeweler to perform breakout inspections in the presence of the Field Inspector.
5. Other assistance, as requested.
6. HSN-approved mandrel for inspector to use. This can be obtained from Romanoff (item # m3-201-R),
631-842-2400.
7. A copy of the most recent HSN PO must be printed and available for inspector to verify quantity, item
numbers, and box/packaging recipe at time of inspection.
• The inspector will randomly pull the required inspection samples.
• A maximum of 5% of the PO quantity for each style must be boxed and made available to the inspector for
verification of compliance with HSN’s boxing program and labeling requirements. Boxed product should be in
“ready to ship” condition with barcode tags and any inserts/warranties, if applicable.
• All unboxed gemstone product (other than colorless stones, for example, CZ) shall be available in open trays to
provide Field Inspector the opportunity to examine the entire color range.
• The vendor’s quality manager, supervisor, or representative must be available to handle questions or quality
discrepancies. The vendor should also have available a representative to remove and replace the merchandise
from boxes or containers.
• The inspection criteria will be a combination of HSN approved master sample(s) or digital images, the online
jewelry specification sheet, and item notes.
• If the carat weight is to be aired or provided in the notes, the Field Inspector will breakout stones, or have the
vendor breakout stones, to verify carat weight. If there is a weight discrepancy with the carat weight given on the
online jewelry specification sheet, the QA product evaluator must be contacted for resolution. Loose stones
provided by the vendor are not acceptable.
• One sample of on-site breakouts may be sent to St. Petersburg for laboratory testing.
• For gold and silver items, the Field Inspector will verify gram weight. If there is a weight discrepancy with the
weight given on the online jewelry specification sheet, the QA product evaluator must be contacted for a
resolution.
• At the conclusion of each vendor inspection visit, the Field Inspector will complete a QA Field Inspection Report
explaining the results of the inspection visit.
• The inspector and vendor must sign and date the Field Inspection Report.
• The HSN QA master sample(s), sealed with STR tape, MUST be returned to HSN Fulfillment after inspection,
along with POs being shipped.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-62-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Alloy: the homogeneous mixture or solid solution of two or more metallic elements or metallic and nonmetallic elements.
Analog Digital Display (watch): uses both digital display and hands to show the time.
Analog Display (watch): uses hands and a dial to show the time; the opposite of digital display.
Anti-Tarnish: a coating on the item or a tab included in the packaging that inhibits tarnish on sterling silver.
Antiqued: a process that involves the application of a dark top coating over bronze or silver; the coating, either plated or
painted, is partially removed to expose some of the underlying metal.
Antique Goldtone: simulates the patina of aged gold.
Antique Silvertone: simulates the patina of aged silver.
Applied Finish: a decorative technique in which the surface of the metal is altered; example: enameling or rhodium
accenting.
Arabic Numerals: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 0.
ATM: the water pressure rating of a watch; ATM means “atmosphere” and is equal to 10 meters of depth (1 meter = 3
feet).
Automatic (Watch): the mainspring is wound by the movement of the wearer's wrist rather than from winding a stem; for
more details, see self-winding (watch).
Bail: a finding that attaches a pendant to a necklace.
Base Metal: non-precious metal; example: copper, zinc, tin and lead.
Bezel: the surface ring on a watch that surrounds and holds the crystal in place.
Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel: a bezel that can move either clockwise or counter-clockwise.
Black-Accented: a black color applied to small portion of an item.
Bracelet (Watch): a flexible metal band consisting of assembled links, usually in the same style as the watchcase.
Bronzetone: metallic-brown color.
Cabochon: a stone that has a rounded, domed surface with no facets.
Carat: a standard measure of weight used for gemstones (1 carat weighs 0.20 grams); different from “karat”.
Carat Weight: a unit of measure for the weight of diamonds and/or gemstones; calculated for each individual stone.
example: .53ct.
Case: the metal housing that contains the internal parts of a watch; see Watchcase for more information.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-63-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS (CONT’D.)
Chain Types:
Bismark
Box
Byzantine
Cable
Curb
Fancy Stampato
Figaro
Herringbone
Mariner
Omega
Panther
Riccio/Foxtail
Rolo Link
Rope Chain
San Marco
Singapore
Snake
Clasp Types:
Barrel
Box
Fold-Over
Hook
Lobster
Slide
Snap-Lock
Spring Ring
Toggle
Joint-and-Catch
Pearl Clasp
Frog
Senora
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-64-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS (CONT’D.)
Country of Origin: the country where the product was manufactured, produced or grown. For Apparel and Accessories:
the sole country where a textile or apparel product is wholly obtained or produced. For Jewelry: last country for
which a “substantial transformation” took place; all imported items must be stamped/labeled with country of origin.
Created Stone: features all the same optical, chemical and physical properties as the natural stone it replicates, but is
created in a lab, instead of in nature.
Crown: a nodule extending from the watchcase that is used to set the time and date.
Crystal: the cover over the watch face.
Dial: the face of the watch showing the hours, minutes and sometimes, seconds.
Diamond Clarity: a measure of the number and extent of the flaws in the diamond.
Diamond Color: the degree of "yellowness.”
Dimensions (Jewelry): to locate pictures of how to measure a jewelry item, review the Jewelry Quality Manual in the
Partner Portal. Click on “Partner Support”, then “Documents & Manuals”. Under “Choose Documents”, select
“Partner Requirements Manuals”, then “Jewelry Quality Manual”.
Display Back: a transparent case back that allows you to view watch movement.
Doublet: a gem made from 2 layers; the lower part of the composite stone is glass or a non-precious stone, while the top
is the more valuable stone.
Drape Length: measured from the top of the drape to the bottom of the drape.
Drop Length: measured from the top of the affixed drop to the bottom of the affixed drop.
Earring Backs:
Kidney Wire
Wire/French Wire
Lever Back
Screw Back
Clip Back
Omega Back
Clutch Back
Bullet/Disc
E-Coat: an electrophoretic coating that provides maximum protection for anti-tarnish and extended wear.
Enamel: a glassy substance (powdered glass with colorants) fused onto metal using heat.
Extender: a short amount of chain added to an existing chain to increase length.
Face (Watch): the visible side of the watch or the dial.
Findings: parts that jewelers use in making jewelry; example: clasps, prongs and links.
Fine Silver: .999 silver; silver in its purest form.
Fineness: the proportion of silver or gold in a metal alloy; usually expressed in parts per thousand.
Finished Weight: the weight, in grams, of the item, including stones.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-65-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS (CONT’D.)
Full-Cut Diamond: a diamond with 57 to 58 facets or polished surfaces.
Goldtone: yellow color.
Goldtone/Silvertone: yellow and white colors together on one item.
Gold-Plated: 18K gold plating that is 20-mils-thick.
Gunmetal: a metal alloy composed of 90% copper and 10% tin.
Gunmetaltone: dark gray to blackish color.
Hands (watch): the pointing device anchored at the center and circling around the dial; indicates hours, minutes, seconds
and any other special features of the watch.
Hematite: steel gray to blackish color.
HSN Item #: unique number given to an item that is created by the HSN Merchandising Department.
Karat: the measure of the fineness of gold equal to a 1/24 part; different from carat.
Lacquered: clear coating on a surface.
Manual-Wind (watch): movement that must be wound manually every 1 to 2 days to keep it running.
Microns: 1/1,000,000m (one-millionth of a meter).
Millimeter: unit of length equal to one-thousandth of a meter, or 0.0394 inch.
Mils: 1/1000in (one-thousandth of an inch).
Movement (watch): the internal components of a watch.
Notes: field used to relay comments to the QA evaluator.
Oxidation: a chemical process in which exposure to oxygen leads to tarnish.
Pavé: stones set very close together, hiding the underlying surface; gives the piece a “cobblestone” look.
Pinion (watch): a toothed wheel (usually made of steel) with a small number of teeth.
Plating: a process whereby one metal is covered by another usually more precious metal by means of electrodeposition.
Plating Fineness: the karat fineness, thickness, weight ratio or manner of application of any gold or gold alloy plating,
covering or coating on any surface of a product or part thereof.
Plating Thickness: the thickness of the plating material listed in either “mils” or “microns.”
Quartz Crystal (watch): works with a series of electronic components, all fitting together in a tiny space, instead of using
a wound spring; powered by a battery.
Ratchet Bezel Ring: a ring that can either turn counterclockwise or both ways and generally clicks into place.
Rhodium Accenting: rhodium applied to a small portion of the item, such as on the tips of prongs.
Rhodium Plating: a layer of rhodium on top of a metal (usually sterling silver); thickness should be 3 to 5 mils.
Romance Card: an insert that gives detail and romances the item being sold.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-66-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS (CONT’D.)
Rose-Cut Diamond: the shape resembles the petals of a rose bud; the crown is domed and the facets meet at a point in
the center.
Rosetone: rose or pinkish color.
Safety Chain: a secondary closure, usually on a fine bracelet or watch, that is used to prevent the primary clasp from
opening; helps stop the piece from getting lost.
Self-Winding (watch): mainspring is wound by the movement of the wearer's wrist rather than from winding a stem; see
Automatic (watch).
Setting: a method of securing a stone or other ornament in a piece of jewelry or other object.
Shank: the part of a ring that encircles the finger.
Silvertone: metallic gray color.
Simulated Stone: features optical properties that resemble those of the natural gem it is trying to imitate in look and
form; often made of glass, crystal or another similar, rock-like substance that replicates the look of a genuine stone
created in nature.
Single-Cut Diamond: features an octagonal girdle, a table, eight bezel (or crown) facets and 8 pavilion facets; it may or
may not have a culet.
Slide Rule Bezel (watch): a rotating bezel, or ring, around the outside edge of the case that is printed with a logarithmic
scale and assorted other scales; is used in conjunction with fixed rules of mathematics to perform general
mathematical calculations or navigational computations.
Stem (watch): the shaft that connects to the movement's winding mechanism.
Stone Color: the color of the stone being identified (note: “clear” is not the color “white”; it should be listed as “clear”).
Stone Detail: the area of the spec sheet where all the stone characteristics are disclosed.
Stone Type: identifies whether the stone is natural, created or simulated.
Stone Variety: the type or kind of stone being detailed.
Strap (watch): a watchband made of leather, plastic or fabric.
Sub-Dial (watch): a small dial on the watch face that displays elapsed durations of time.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-67-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS (CONT’D.)
Surface Finish: the polish or texture applied to a metal. Examples below:
Diamond-Cut
Hammered
Lasered
Matte
Satin
Textured
Polished
Florentine
Sweep-Seconds Hand: a seconds hand that is mounted in the center of the watch dial, instead of in a sub-dial.
Swiss Movement: a movement is considered Swiss if it has been assembled in Switzerland, inspected by the
manufacturer in Switzerland and components of its Swiss manufacturing account for at least 50% of the total value
(without taking cost of assembly into account).
Tarnish: the term applied to metal that has discolored due to oxidation or corrosion.
Technibond™ Yellow: .925 sterling silver plated with a 40-mils-thick outside layer of 18K yellow gold.
Technibond™ Platinum: .925 sterling silver plated with a layer of platinum.
Technibond™ Rose: .925 sterling silver plated with a 40-mils-thick outside layer of 18K rose gold.
Total Carat Weight: a unit of measure of the combined carat weight of all diamonds and/or gemstones in a piece of
jewelry.
Tourbillon (watch): consists of a mobile carriage holding all the parts of the escapement, with the balance in the center.
Triplet: an assembled stone composed of three layers that are glued or epoxied together.
Two-Tone: combination of any 2 metal colors.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-68-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
GLOSSARY OF TERMS (CONT’D.)
Type/Shape of Cut: the shape or the cut of the stone. Examples below:
Uni-Directional Rotating Bezel (watch): a bezel that indicates elapsed time; often found on diver’s watches.
Vendor Part Number (VPN): unique numeric or alphanumeric identifier created by the partner.
Vermeil: .925 sterling silver that is plated with a 100-mils-thick (2.5 microns) layer of 18K gold.
Vibration (watch): movement of a pendulum limited by 2 extreme positions.
Warranty Card: a guarantee given to the purchaser by a company stating that a product is reliable and free from known
defects and that the seller will, without charge, repair or replace defective parts within a given time limit and under
certain conditions.
Watchcase: the metal housing that contains the internal parts of a watch; see Case.
Water Resistance (watch): the ability of a watch to resist penetration by water.
White Gold: an alloy of gold made with nickel; sometimes the jeweler also mixes palladium or zinc in the alloy.
Winding Stem (watch): the button on the right side of the watchcase used to wind the mainspring.
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-69-
QUALITY ASSURANCE: JEWELRY AND WATCH STANDARDS
KEY CONTACTS
Key Contacts in Quality Assurance
Matt Demers | OVP, Quality Assurance | 727.872.7799 | [email protected]
Jan Radcliffe | Sr. Managing Product Evaluator: Jewelry | 727.872.7278 | [email protected]
Fine Jewelry | Fashion Jewelry | Watches
Last updated: 8/30/2012
-70-