SENSORY EVALUATION OF FABRIC SOUND BY FREE MODULUS MAGNITUDE ESTIMATION Gilsoo Cho1, Eunjou Yi.1 and John G. Casali2 1 Department of Clothing and Textiles, College of Human Ecology, Yonsei University, 134 Shinchon-Dong, Sudaemoon-Gu, Seoul, 120-749, Korea (corresponding author - Emal: [email protected]) 2 Department of Industrial and Systems Engineering, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA. 24061, U.S.A. ABSTRACT This study was performed to measure fabric sound objectively and to relate the sound with human subjective sensation. Rubbing sound of each fabric was generated by an apparatus devised for this study and transformed into sound spectrum by fast fourier transform (FFT) analysis. As sound characteristics, level pressure of total sound (LPT), amplitude difference (∆L), and frequency difference (∆f) were obtained. Seven sensation (softness, loudness, pleasantness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, and highness) and satisfaction for sound of each fabric were rated by free modulus magnitude estimation (FMME). The LPT of polyester taffeta was the highest (62.1dB) while the value of polyester ultrasuede was the lowest (37.4dB) among the fabrics. Values for level range (∆L) of eight fabrics were ranged from 18.6dB to 52.4dB. Frequency difference (∆f) of all fabrics had negative values. Eight fabrics showed significant differences one another in each of sound sensation. Among the sensation, loudness, sharpness, roughness and highness were negatively correlated with sensation of softness and pleasantness. A regression model of each sensation was fitted as a function of sound parameters. Loudness, roughness, and highness were well predicted by sound parameters showing R2 higher than 0.7. Keyword : fabric sound, level pressure of total sound (LPT), level difference (∆L), frequency difference (∆f), sensation, free modulus magnitude estimation (FMME) 1. INTRODUCTION The evaluation of fabric hand, quality, and related fabric performance attributes, in terms of objectively measurable properties is called Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) (Bishop, 1996). The successful application of FOM depends on establishing reliable methods for quantifying subjective judgments, and on providing equations that accurately predict such judgments from the chosen objective measurements. Fabric sensory properties such as tactility, drape, luster, hairiness, prickle, and odor have been discussed in the literatures. However, there has been no publication on fabric sound in the present FOM context. There were some publications dealing with fabric sound measurements by now. Two edges of a micro-slit of a trilobal shaped cross-section were applied to a polyester fiber in order to imitate silk-scrooping (Fukuhara, 1993). In another study, relationship between sound parameters objectively measured and some mechanical properties of fabrics was discussed (Yi and Cho, 1999). However, there has been no study which measured human sensation of fabric sound. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 29 Sound sensation is affected by the related physical sound parameters. Subjective attributes for sound sensation are loudness, pitch, timber and duration. These are determined by physical parameters such as sound pressure, frequency, spectral shape and so on (Sethares, 1998). Human sensation has been evaluated by psychophysical methods such as semantic differential scaling (SDS) and magnitude estimation (Bird and Noma, 1978). Magnitude estimation is a method to evaluate sensation against stimuli by giving a number which equals to the magnitude of perceived attribute (Schiffman, 1971). In textile fields, magnitude estimation has been used in some studies such as that subjective hand properties including softness, smoothness, and flexibility were predicted with some relevant objective measurements (Jeurissen, 1991). There are two different ways of magnitude estimation. One is a fixed modulus magnitude estimation and the other is free modulus magnitude estimation (FMME). In the fixed modulus magnitude estimation, subjects decide their magnitude against stimuli according to the predetermined standard, whereas in the FMME, subjects freely give a number to the stimuli without predetermined standard by considering each stimulus’s intervals. According to Stevens (1971), FMME is a better method for each subject to decide his or her own modulus on the sensation estimation than fixed modulus. The purpose of this study is to measure fabric sound objectively based on FFT spectra and to relate the sound with human subjective sensation so that human sensation for fabric sound can be predicted from the objectively measurable sound parameters of fabrics. It is anticipated that the results will be utilized as a source to develop textile fabrics that will satisfy consumers in terms of auditory sensation. 2. EXPERIMENTAL METHOD AND ANALYSIS 2.1 Specimen Eight different fabrics were used as test specimen. The characteristics of the specimen were summarized in Table 1. Table 1. Characteristics of Fabrics Fabric Number F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 2.2 Fiber Content Wool Wool Polyester Polyester Silk Polyester Polyester Flax Yarn Type Staple Staple Staple Staple Filament Filament Filament Staple Fabric Construction/ Name Plain/Worsted Plain/Woolen Twill/Ultrasuede Leno/Leno Plain/Crepe de chine Twill/Surah Plain/Taffeta Plain/Beaten Thickness (mm) 0.46 0.68 0.30 0.58 0.18 0.25 0.28 0.40 Weight (mg/cm2) 23.24 40.52 14.28 22.34 6.51 12.91 16.35 15.95 Sound Recording An apparatus devised to generate fabric sounds for the previous study (Yi and Cho, 1999) was used (Fig. 1). Two pieces of same fabrics were faced to each other on the apparatus. One was fixed on a stationary pulley and the other was placed on it like a belt. The upper fabric RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 30 was then moved and rubbed to the other fabric so as to generate rustling sounds. The feeding speed of specimen was controlled to be 1.2m/min.. The apparatus did not make any noise. It simulated the actual rubbing of garments in real state. Sound generating was repeatable and reproducible by use of the apparatus. The weight on the specimen was adjusted to 500g /4 cm. The loads were used to result movement of the upper fabric. In the air cylinder airflow occurs resulting in energy loss to keep the velocity of feeding speed from accelerating. Each sound was recorded in an anechoic chamber by use of a microphone (B & K, Type 4145) and a DAT data recorder (TEAC Model RD-145T). The use of DAT allowed the recordings to be played during experimental trials while holding accurate calibration levels. This apparatus afforded the ability to replicate rubbing conditions of the same fabrics, allowing accurate recording to be done. 2.3 Analysis Recorded sounds were analyzed in terms of amplitude and frequency by an FFT analyzer (Hewlett Packard, model 35670A). Spectra of sounds were output from the analyzer. Fig. 1. Diagram of Sound Generator A1 : A2 : B: C: D: 2.4 Piston Pipe Cylinder Valve Load (500g) E: F1 : F2 : G: H: Load (5kg) Fabric (15 cm width×75 cm length) Fabric wounded on pulley (15 cm width×15 cm length) Microphone Holder Definition and Measurement of Sound Parameters In order to summarize the fabric sound expressed as FFT spectra, three sound parameters were defined which can describe the characteristics of the sound well. Those are the level pressure of total sound(LPT), level range(∆L), and frequency difference(∆f). The three parameters were calculated from the spectral curves as follows; LPT = 10 log 10 ( ∑ 10 BL i 10 (1) ) i where BLi is i-th broadband level . RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 31 ∆L (dB) = (maximum amplitude) – (minimum amplitude) (2) ∆f (Hz) = (frequency at maximum amplitude) – (frequency at minimum amplitude) (3) 2.5 Measurement of mechanical Properties of Fabrics Mechanical properties of eight fabrics were measured by using KES-FB. 2.6 Subjects Participants for this study were recruited from the Virginia Tech student population by means of posted fliers and postings to the local VT newsgroups. A total of 30 subjects (14 male students, 16 female students) between 18 and 26 years of age participated in the study after screening for normal hearing of volunteers. 2.7 Screening The screening was consisted of a hearing test and several questions to assess the general health and condition of the subjects’ ears. The participant’s auditory threshold was determined according to 5dB up and 10dB down procedure (Morill, 1984) by use of an audiometer, and was required to be at least 20dB at 500, 1000, 2000, 3000 and 4000 Hz frequencies. 2.8 Sensory Evaluation A set of prerecorded fabric sounds was presented to each subject. For each sound, the subjects were asked to answer questions on their subjective sensation of the sound. The questions dealt with seven aspects of sound sensation: softness (S1), loudness (S2), pleasantness (S3), sharpness (S4), clearness (S5), roughness (S6), highness (S7), and satisfaction. The sensory descriptors were selected through the pretest in which subjects were asked to choose sensation terms available for describing fabric sound. The questionnaire was structured in the form of FMME. In each sound presentation, each subject assigns a number to each of seven sensation and satisfaction so that high number represents high sensation and low number represents low sensation (Cho and Casali, 1999). Sensory measurements were repeated twice so that two responses are obtained for each subject and each sensation. Each subject was presented with eight different sounds of fabrics in sequence. The order of sound presentation was previously determined using random number table for each subject. 2.9 Steps for FMME Data Transform To compare magnitude estimation judgments among subjects who responded using varied number ranges, every score for each subject required correction. The subjective FMME data were transformed (Haas, 1993) to eliminate inter-subject variance and intra-subject variability as follows: RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 32 c Convert each response value to its logarithm. d Calculate the arithmetic mean of the logarithms of the two responses made by each observer to each sensation. This value is equal to the logarithm of the geometric mean of the observer’s responses to each sensation. e Tabulate the values such that subjects are listed by row, and sensation is listed by column. f Calculate the arithmetic mean of the logarithmic responses in each row. This is equal to the logarithm of the geometric mean of each observer’s responses to all the sensation. g Obtain the arithmetic mean of all the values obtained in step f. This is equal to the logarithmic value of the grand mean of all the responses for all observers to all sensation in the original data matrix. h Subtract the value obtained in step g, the grand mean log response, from each of the arithmetic individual mean log responses determined in step f. i Subtract the value obtained in step h from the row of values obtained for each subject in step d. j Obtain the antilog of every value obtained in step i. 3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 3.1 Sound Properties of Fabrics Sound parameters as physical stimuli of fabrics for human sensation were evaluated using the equations (1)-(3). The results are given in Fig.2. The LPT of F7 (polyester taffeta) was the highest (62.1dB). This corresponds to the sound pressure level of normal conversation (60~70dB). The value of F3 (polyester ultra suede) was the lowest (37.4dB). This is the level of a living room (30~40dB). The wool fabrics (F1, F2) showed similar LPT values, but worsted fabric (54.7dB) produced a little louder rustling sound than woolen fabric (52.6dB). The LPT values of F4 (polyester leno) and F6 (polyester surah) were comparatively high and those were higher than 50dB. The LPT of silk satin (F5) was 49.3dB, which was a little louder than that of flax beaten fabric (F8) (46.8dB). Level range (∆L) of eight fabrics was ranged from 18.6dB to 52.4dB. The higher the values, the higher the dynamic ranges of the spectrum. Silk satin (F5) had the highest ∆L value of 52.4dB among eight fabrics, and polyester leno (F4) had the lowest ∆L of 8.6dB. The wool fabrics (F1, F2) also showed very similar ∆L values (21.4dB and 23.0dB). Frequency difference ( ∆f) of fabrics had negative value. A negative value is a characteristic of a fabric with a lower frequency bias or a negative spectral slope. The higher the values, the wider the spectrum. Wool worsted fabric (F1) had a narrow spectrum compared to woolen fabric (F2). Leno fabric (F4) had the lowest value of ∆f and woolen fabric (F2), polyester surah (F6) and flax (F8) had the highest. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 33 Fig. 2. Quantified Sound Parameter Values of Eight Fabrics 70 70 60 60 50 50 30 0 -5000 40 delta 40 30 20 20 10 10 -15000 -25000 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 3.2 -10000 -20000 0 0 Frequency Difference (delta f) Am plitude Difference (delta L) delta L LPT LevelPressure of Total Sound (LPT) F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 Mechanical Properties of Fabrics Mechanical property measurements by KES are shown in Table 2. For shear stiffness (G) and shear hysteresis (2HG), F5 (crepe de chine) showed the lowest value. It means that fabric was more easily deformable than any other fabrics. Woolen fabric (F2) was found to be the bulkiest and heaviest fabric showing the highest values for compression energy (WC) and weight. Polyester leno (F4) was most stretchable in tensile strain because the fabric showed the highest tensile energy (WT). Table 2. Mechanical Property Measurements of Fabrics EM LT (%) F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 3.3 6.46 8.82 3.81 10.82 13.07 3.44 4.00 2.20 0.63 0.58 0.76 0.71 0.48 0.73 0.65 0.80 WT (gf.cm/cm2) 0.07 13.13 9.11 19.11 15.61 6.25 6.45 4.34 RT G 2HG 2HG5 (%) (gf/cm.deg) (gf/cm) (gf/cm) (gf.cm/cm2) WC (mm) T (mg/cm2) W 60.06 56.07 58.29 45.43 50.65 55.90 64.52 43.50 0.56 0.94 0.39 0.32 0.21 0.31 0.87 0.59 0.81 2.19 0.73 0.45 0.05 0.51 1.59 0.65 1.50 3.16 1.49 0.89 0.22 1.19 2.54 2.93 0.20 1.82 0.12 0.24 0.08 0.11 0.07 0.18 0.46 0.68 0.30 0.58 0.18 0.25 0.28 0.40 23.24 40.52 14.28 22.34 6.51 12.91 16.35 15.95 Sensory Properties of Fabric Sound The means of subjective sensation by FMME for eight fabrics are shown in Fig. 3. The oneway analysis of variance (ANOVA) was performed for each of seven sensation in order to test whether sensation effects of eight fabrics are the same or not. All sound sensation was significantly different at 1% significant level among eight fabrics. P-values were 0.0046 for clearness (S5) and 0.0001 for all the other sensations. Polyester ultrasuede (F3) with the lowest LPT showed the highest sensation for softness (S1) and pleasantness (S3), and the lowest for loudness (S2), sharpness (S4), roughness (S6) and highness (S7). Polyester taffeta (F7) with the highest LPT showed the highest sensation for loudness (S2), sharpness (S4), roughness (S6) and highness (S7), and the lowest for softness (S1) and pleasantness (S3). Fabrics evaluated as louder, sharper, rougher and higher showed smaller for softness (S1), and pleasantness (S3). RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 34 Fig. 3. Means of Sound Sensation of Fabrics (P-value of * is 0.0046, others are 0.0001) S oftness (S 1) Loudness (S 2) P leasantness (S 3) S harpness (S 4) 12 12 12 12 10 10 10 10 8 8 8 8 6 6 6 6 4 4 4 4 2 2 2 2 0 0 0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 C learness* (S 5) R oughness (S 6) F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 H ighness (S 7) 12 12 12 10 10 10 8 8 8 6 6 6 4 4 4 2 2 2 0 0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 In Table 3, correlation of the seven sensation is listed. From the table it is seen that the four sensation of loudness (S2), sharpness (S4), roughness (S6), and highness (S7) were positively correlated with each other and the sensation of softness (S1) and pleasantness (S3) was positively correlated with each other. On the other hand, each of the four sensation (S2, S4, S6, S7) was negatively correlated with each of the two sensation (S1, S3). Clearness is the only sensation which was not significantly correlated with any of the other sensation. Table 3. Correlation Coefficients among sensation S1 S3 S5 S2 S4 S6 S7 S1 1.000 S3 0.710 1.000 S5 0.091 0.006 1.000 S2 -0.683 -0.758 0.115 1.000 S4 -0.526 -0.634 0.217 0.725 1.000 S6 -0.661 -0.790 0.066 0.837 0.731 1.000 S7 -0.612 -0.735 0.130 0.819 0.783 0.814 1.000 RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 35 Satisfaction of fabrics is shown in Fig. 4. Participants rated polyester ultrasuede fabric as the most satisfied one and the next ones were silk satin and flax fabrics. Those three fabrics had been rated as most soft and pleasant in the softness and pleasantness sensation. Polyester taffeta was the least satisfied fabric for its sound. It had been rated as the loudest, sharpest, roughest and highest in their sensation. Therefore, satisfaction was positively correlated with sensation of softness and pleasantness, while negatively with sensation of loudness, sharpness, roughness and highness. Fig. 4. Means of Satisfaction of Fabrics S a tis fa c tio n 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 F1 F2 F3 3.4 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 Prediction of Sound Sensation by Sound Parameters Before establishing the prediction models, significance of correlation between sound parameters and sound sensation of fabrics was presented in Table 4. LPT showed significant correlation coefficients with all of sensation except subjective sensation. It was correlated negatively with softness and pleasantness, while positively with loudness, sharpness, roughness, and highness. The other hand, ∆L had significant correlation positively with softness, while negatively with loudness, sharpness, and highness. Clearness did not show any significant correlation with sound sensation, which means that other sound parameters need to be investigated for correlation with sound sensation of fabrics. Table 4. Correlation Coefficients between Sound Parameters and Sound Sensation Softness Loudness Pleasantness Sharpness Clearness Roughness Highness LPT (dB) - 0.863** 0.864** - 0.902** 0.764* 0.085 0.915** 0.757* ∆L ∆f 0.757* - 0.779* 0.699 - 0.863** - 0.442 - 0.692 - 0.858** ** means p<0.01, *means p<0.05 RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 36 0.061 - 0.005 - 0.027 0.097 - 0.270 - 0.010 0.152 A multiple linear regression model was fitted to each of the sound sensation as a function of the three sound parameters and their two-way cross products, which is S = b0 + b1·∆L + b2· ∆f + b3·LPT + b4·∆L·∆f + b5·∆L·LPT + b6·∆f ·LPT where S denotes the sound sensation and b0- b6 are coefficients of the regression model. The squared terms of the sound parameters were not included in the regression model since none of them were significant in the model. The coefficients b0- b6 and coefficient of determination (R2) for the seven sensation by FMME are listed in Table 5. Table 5. Prediction of Sound Sensation Sound Sensation Softness (S1) Loudness (S2) Pleasantness (S3) Sharpness (S4) Clearness (S5) Roughness (S6) Highness (S7) b0 -2.64 2.41 -0.60 6.21 11.81 -6.90 13.73 b1 0.56 -0.15 0.54 -0.20 -0.20 0.09 -0.35 Coefficients b2 b3 0.00 0.11 0.00 0.16 -0.00 0.08 -0.00 0.07 -0.00 -0.09 0.00 0.33 0.00 -0.06 b4 -0.00 0.00 -0.00 0.00 -0.00 0.00 0.00 b5 -0.01 0.00 -0.01 0.00 0.00 -0.00 0.00 R2 b6 0.00 -0.00 0.00 -0.00 0.00 -0.00 -0.00 0.53 0.84 0.64 0.52 0.08 0.73 0.73 Loudness, roughness, and highness were well predicted by sound parameters and R2 of the models were higher than 0.7. Softness, pleasantness, sharpness had relatively low R2 and clearness had very small R2. In the equations, subjective loudness was found as being related positively with LPT. Fig. 5 illustrates the relation between LPT and loudness based on psychophysical law. The figure explains that fabrics with higher LPT tended to sound loudly. The prediction equation of roughness also had a positive coefficient for LPT. The relationship between them is shown in Fig. 6. The other hand, subjective highness was affected negatively by ∆L in the equation. This means that fabrics with lower values for ∆L seemed to be rated as sounding higher, which is presented in Fig. 7. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 37 Fig. 5. Relationship between Loudness and LPT Loudness = – 0.003 LPT2 + 0.577 LPT -15.989, R2 = 0.75 Loudness (scales) 12 F7 10 F2 F1 F4 F6 8 6 F8 4 2 30 F5 F3 40 50 60 70 LPT (dB) Fig. 6. Relationship between Roughness and LPT Roughness = 0.001 LPT2 + 0.274LPT – 9.059, R2 = 0.84 Roughness (scales) 12 F7 10 F2 F4 F1 F6 8 6 F8 F5 4 F3 2 30 40 50 LPT (dB) RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 38 60 70 Fig. 7. Relationship between Highness and ∆L Highness = 0.004 ∆L 2 – 0.493 ∆L +17.103, R2 = 0.77 Highness (scales) 10 9 8 F4 F7 F2 F1 F6 7 6 5 F8 4 3 2 10 F3 20 30 40 F5 50 60 delta L (dB) 3.5 Sound Sensation and Satisfaction Predicted by Sound and Mechanical Measurements Table 6 presents the equations for predicting sound sensation with sound parameters and mechanical properties of fabrics. Softness sensation was predicted by LPT, elongation (EM), shear hysteresis (2HG), compression energy (WC), and fabric thickness (T). The perception of roughness for sound was adequately predicted by ∆f, LPT, tensile resilience (RT), shear stiffness (G), and thickness. Sound sensation was well predicted with sound parameters and physical properties by FMME. For most of the equations R2 was higher than 0.9. This indicates that subjective evaluation by FMME contributed on establishing reliable equations for describing sound sensation with sound and physical properties. The equations for predicting satisfaction for sound showed that satisfaction for sound was well described by ∆L, LPT, and fabric thickness in sound measurement and mechanical properties and also described by loud sensation. Table 6. Regression Equations for Sound Sensation and Satisfaction Predicted by both Sound Parameters and Mechanical Properties Sound Sensation Softness Loudness Pleasantness Sharpness Clearness Roughness Highness Satisfaction Regression Equation Y =23.873-0.287LPT +0.032EM-0.1682HG +1.050WC-8.328T Y =-8.847-0.050∆L+0.295LPT +5.109T Y =32.599-0.001∆f-1.343WT Y =-4.181+0.00005∆f +0.128LPT-4.633G +12.782T Y = 4.566-0.0001∆f +0.8602HG5 Y =-19.796+0.0001∆f +0.264LPT+0.163RT -4.904G+22.022T Y =-2.335-0.138∆L+0.249LPT Y =18.914 + 0.048 ∆L - 0.250 LPT - 4.366T R2 0.999 0.983 0.780 0.986 0.709 1.000 0.977 0.988 RJTA Vol. 5 No. 2 39 4. CONCLUSIONS Sound parameters as physical stimuli of fabrics for human sensation were quantified using the equations. The means for subjective sensation by FMME for each fabric showed that all sound sensation were significantly different for eight fabrics. Sensation of loudness, sharpness, roughness and highness was negatively correlated with sensation of softness and pleasantness. For sensation measurements, semantic differential scales (SDS) could be utilized in order to compare with the results obtained from the FMME. Sound sensation was well predicted with sound parameters and physical properties showing the high R2. This indicates that subjective evaluation by FMME contributed on establishing reliable equations for describing sound sensation with sound and physical properties. REFERENCES Bird, J.C. and Noma, E. (1978), Fundamentals of Scaling and Psychophysics, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., New York. Bishop, D.P. (1996), Fabrics: Sensory and Mechanical Properties, Textile Progress, 26, pp. 157. Cho, G. and Casali, J.G. 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