Fayette
County
By The Yard...
April
2015
Fayette County Cooperative Extension Service
1140 Red Mile Place
Lexington, KY 40504-1172
(859) 257-5582
Fax: (859) 254-3697
www.fayetteextension.com
FREE GARDEN KIT
Tenative Date: May 9, 2015
Location: TBA
Watch May’s “By The Yard” newsletter
for more information
Attend demonstrations and take home your own FREE Garden Kit
containing plants, seeds and vegetable gardening book.
DEMONSTRATIONS:
Using Fresh Produce
Container Gardening
Soil Prep
Planting
Kids Gardening Activity
All materials while
supplies last. First
come first served
basis.
Page 2
Browning Evergreens No Cause for Alarm
This winter’s extreme temperature
swings have left many
homeowners with unsightly brown
plants. Unseasonably cold winter
weather, damaged many landscape
plants, particularly broadleaf
evergreens. Hollies, Magnolias,
Boxwoods, Rhododendrons,
English Ivy and many other
evergreens are exhibiting brown
leaves.
Generally, winter injury will affect the outer most
portions of the plant. However, in extreme cases the
damage may go all the way to the interior. Most of this
damage is superficial and plants will recover when new
growth occurs. It may be beneficial to trim the brown
tips from Hollies and other
plants that would receive an
annual pruning. In the case
of Magnolias and other trees,
it may be best to wait and see
if just the leaves are damaged
or if injury also includes the
tips of branches.
Established plants will benefit from a light application
of fertilizer, which will promote new growth and
improve their overall appearance. Typically, plants in
more exposed, windy sites will show greater damage.
Make sure damaged plants are well watered, as our
current summer-like temperatures and low rainfall could
exacerbate the problem.
Beneficial Snakes
Many people fear snakes, but
despite the fright they can cause,
the majority of snakes are
beneficial. Of the 33 varieties of
snakes in Kentucky, only four are
venomous (Northern copperhead,
Western cottonmouth (water
moccasin), timber rattlesnake, and
pygmy rattlesnake). Most snakes
you encounter around your home
are harmless. If you are scared of them, try to
remember that they are useseful - they keep the rodent
population in check by eating mice, rats, chipmunks and
even toads, insects and other pests.
Stack firewood 12 inches above the ground on a
pallet
• Remove lumber or junk piles where snakes could
hide.
 Trim bushes and shrubs that grow against a
foundation.
 Keep all lots, fields, and lawns mowed and well
kept.
 Remove debris and trash from pond and stream
banks.
 De-clutter basements and attics, especially where
rodents can be found.
 Keep feed for livestock in covered metal
containers to discourage rodents.
 Remove pet food after feeding. Use covered metal
Summer months increase the possibility for an
cans for trash
encounter with a snake, as snakes leave dormancy in the
You
can use glueboards to remove snakes. For longer
spring to mate. And because people go outside more
often in the warm months to enjoy leisure and sporting snakes, you may need to nail several glueboards in
succession to a piece of plywood. But remember that
activities, surprise encounters can happen. When
threatened, a snake may coil up and hiss, but generally, the best option for snake removal is to modify the
environment so the snakes are not attracted to the area.
its reaction will be to get away from you.
Snakes like damp, dark, cool places where food (usually
mice) is accessible. They also will be drawn to areas that
provide shelter and shade from the summer sun. The
best way to get rid of snakes is to modify the habitat
that is attracting them. Some recommendations
include:

Page 3
April Quick Tips
If you haven’t trimmed back
ornamental grasses and perennials, do
so now.
label directions very carefully. Better yet, plant fruit
trees with natural disease resistance.
You can begin trimming evergreens
now through late summer. Pruning after
the spring flush of growth will result in
less re-growth.
If you start seedlings indoors, gradually toughen them
up with brief trips outdoors on nice days. Start with
short times in a shady spot at first. They sunburn easily.
In the vegetable garden you can
plant potatoes now. You still have
time for peas, lettuce and onions if
you didn’t plant in March. In late
April you can begin planting beans
Don’t forget to sign up for the
2015 Gardener Toolbox classes!
Classes are filling up quickly.
Visit our website: http://fayette.ca.uky.edu/sites/
Sharpen mower blades. Clean cuts
Remove flower stalks from bulbs. Apply fertilizer and make for a healthier, more attractive
make sure to leave the foliage to die back naturally. The lawn.
leaves provide food for next year’s flowers.
Crabgrass preventer should be applied by the middle
of the month.
Continue planting trees and shrubs.
Add organic matter to flower beds and garden plots.
Incorporate into the soil where possible.
Edge beds for a crisp, clean look. This will also keep
creeping weeds from encroaching as rapidly.
Apply new mulch to beds as needed.
Total mulch depth should not exceed
3-4” and a 2” layer is usually sufficient.
Keep mulch away from tree trunks and
bases of shrubs.
If you have a spray program for fruit trees, begin
spraying after flower petals drop. As always, follow
fayette.ca.uky.edu/files/Horticulture/
Gardeners_Toolbox_2015.pdf or call (859) 257-5582
to have a registration mailed to you.
Recipe Corner: Marinated Asparagus Salad
1 pound fresh asparagus
1 small red (or other) onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 or 2 tomatoes, chopped
Italian salad dressing
Directions: Cook asparagus by any of the methods described above. Cool. Combine with
onion and tomatoes and enough salad dressing to moisten (about 2 to 3 Tbsps.) Stir gently.
Cover and refrigerate several hours or overnight. Stir again before serving. Serves 4.
Calories: 88 per serving, Fat: 9 grams per serving
Source: University of Illinois Extension fact sheet; originally developed by Michigan State University Extension
The Kentucky Christmas Tree Association's 11th Annual Plant Auction
The Kentucky Christmas Tree Association’s 11th annual plant auction will be held 10:00 a.m.,
Saturday, April 11th, in the Fayette County Extension Office front parking lot, 1140 Red Mile
Place, Lexington. A portion of the proceeds will be used to provide one or more scholarships
for students majoring in Forestry or related sciences in the College of Agriculture, Food and
Environment at the University of Kentucky. A variety of annual, perennials, balled and
burlapped landscape trees and shrubs will be for sale.
Page 4
Moles in Lawns
Have you ever noticed
raised tunnels in your
lawn or garden? Those
tunnels could be caused
by moles—small
mammals with pointed
snouts. While mole
damage can frustrate gardeners, the damage is usually
temporary, and moles can actually be beneficial.
You may see mole
activity in your lawn, but
they can also live
underground in areas
such as golf courses and
parks. In addition to
their hairless snouts,
moles have powerful front teeth and fur that points
up; both of these features make it easier for moles to
navigate through soil.
Moles eat constantly, and they create tunnels as they
search for food underground. Although moles may be
a nuisance to some homeowners, they feed on pests
that could harm plants, such as mole crickets and
beetle larvae. Moles rarely eat plants and seeds, and
this typically results in little damage. However, these
animals may damage plants as they search for insects.
Controlling Moles
Although moles can help decrease pest populations
and loosen soil, some people may not be able to
tolerate the cosmetic damage moles do to landscapes.
If you suspect mole activity you can try trapping them
or reducing their food source (soil insects). Moles
prefer to tunnel in damp soils, so reducing the
intensity and frequency of water on your landscape
may also help. However, homeowners should try to
accept mole activity—if you see tunnels, simply press
the soil back in place.
Direct trapping can be very effective, but requires
some stealth in identifying active tunnels and setting
the traps properly – definitely the option for those
with revenge on their mind. Please realize that by
trapping, we don’t mean a catch and release program.
Poison baits such as Tomcat Mole Killer (Talpirid)
has been proven to be an effective bait. Talpirid looks
just like an earthworm, one of the moles favorite
dishes.
Professionals and homeowners alike continue to
report good results. Always be cautious when using
poison baits. I have dogs and cats roaming my lawn
and from time to time they enjoy digging in the lawn
so poison baits aren’t a realistic option for me.
Adapted from University of Florida, Extension.
Featured plant - Celandine Poppy, Wood Poppy
Celandine Poppy, Stylophorum diphyllum is a lovely,
native perennial with bluish-green lobed leaves that
are attractive in their own right. The plants form
eighteen inch clumps which flower from March to
May with clusters of bright yellow, 2-inch
buttercup-like flowers. These are followed by
nodding green hairy pods. Under dry conditions, the
plant may go dormant in midsummer, otherwise it
may flower on and off into fall. Celandine Poppy is a
favorite wildflower for moist, rich, lightly wooded
area, although I have some thriving in terrible heavy
clay soil. It will self-sow when grown in proper
conditions, and has happily spread itself around my
partially shaded garden. While it can multiply itself, it
is in no way aggressive or invasive. Grow it with
other shade-tolerant species such as Foamflower,
Columbine, Bleeding Heart, Wild Ginger, and Phlox.
Celandine Poppy is good for beginners and is one of
the showiest native shade plants in flower.
Page 5
Problems with Boxwoods
Boxwood psyllid damage
The boxwood psyllid,
Psylla buxi, causes a
characteristic cupping of the
leaves on the terminal and
lateral buds of boxwood.
This insect can overwinter as an egg, or as a first
instar nymph under the bud
scales. As the buds
develop in the spring, the eggs
hatch and nymphs emerge to
infest the leaves. The feeding
causes the leaves to curl and
Psyllid nymphs with wax form a cup which encloses the
greenish colored nymphs.
The nymphs produce a
white, waxy secretion
which may cover part of
the body or small waxy
pellets beside the nymphs.
The greenish adults emerge
late May into June, mate
Boxwood psyllid adult
and lay eggs under the bud
scales. Only one generation occurs each year. This
pest causes aesthetic damage to American boxwood
and English boxwood.
Management: Boxwood psyllid nymphs may be
controlled with horticultural oil, or insecticidal soap
sprays in April and May. Adults may be controlled by
a registered residual insecticide in late May into June.
Sprays are only necessary if infestations are heavy.
Larvae inside of boxwood leaf
Boxwood leafminer is the
most destructive insect
pest of boxwood. The
larvae of this fly feed on
the tissue between the
outer surfaces of the
leaves. This feeding
results in blotch shaped
mines in the boxwood leaves. The infested leaves
appear blistered from late summer through the
following spring. New leaves do not show signs of
mining until late summer when the larvae are larger.
By fall, or in early spring, premature leaf-drop may
result from heavy infestation.
Adult leafminers emerge in
late April or early May (in
Maryland), depending on the
weather. The adults are small
(3mm), orange, mosquito-like
flies (see photo above). The
adult flies emerge over a
period of 10-14 days but each fly only lives about 24
hours. After mating each female inserts about 30 eggs
in the surface of new boxwood leaves. The larvae
hatch in about 3 weeks, and feed within the leaves
from June through early fall. They spend the winter in
the leaves, and pupate the
following April. There is
one generation each year.
Many cultivars of Buxus
sempervirens and Buxus
microphylla var. Japonica,
are relatively resistant to
Close-up of boxwood leafminer larvae this pest.
Management: To control the adult leafminers,
thoroughly spray the plants with a registered
insecticide in late April. If developing mines are
observed, larvae can be controlled from late June
through the summer by spraying with a foliar
absorbed insecticide. It is best to control larvae in
June before serious damage has occurred
Adapted from University of Maryland/Extension
Did You Know? If your peonies
have been plagued with leaf spot
diseases or flower buds that fail to open
you may be dealing with a fungal disease.
Try cutting back all of the old foliage
and debris and remove it from the area
along with the mulch surrounding the
plant. Apply fresh mulch and spray
emerging foliage with a fungicide.
Fungal diseases can be prevented but
not cured once established. The key is to
spray before the disease is active. Follow
label directions carefully. Most fungicide
treatments require multiple applications
early in the season.
Page 6
Eastern Tent Caterpillar Egg Hatch Begins in Central KY
Eastern tent caterpillar egg
hatch was reported March
23 in Scott County.
According to Lee
Townsend, University of
Kentucky College of
Agriculture, Food and
Environment Extension
Entomologist, the tiny larvae will continue to emerge
over the next two weeks from eggs laid last summer
on flowering wild cherry, cherry, apple and related
trees.
The eastern tent caterpillar spends the winter as tiny,
fully-developed insects in distinctive egg masses that
encircle twigs of wild cherry and related trees. It is one
of the first insects to become active in the spring and
is well adapted to survive Kentucky’s erratic winter
and early spring weather.
the Mare Reproductive Loss Syndrome outbreak that
peaked in 2001. MRLS can cause late-term foal losses,
early- and late-term fetal losses and weak foals. Studies
by UK researchers revealed that horses will
inadvertently eat the caterpillars, and the caterpillar
hairs embed into the lining of the alimentary tract.
Once that protective barrier is breached, normal
alimentary tract bacteria may gain access to and
reproduce in sites with reduced immunity, such as the
fetus and placenta.
Horse owners and farm managers with pregnant mares
should begin to monitor fence lines containing wild
cherry trees in about two weeks for small tents
produced by developing caterpillars.
If practical, farms should plan to move pregnant mares
from areas where these trees are abundant to minimize
the chance of exposure to the caterpillars. The
potential is greatest when the mature tent caterpillars
“This is a hardy insect, so it is unlikely that our winter leave trees and wander to find places to pupate and
temperatures caused much mortality,” Townsend said. transform to the moth stage.
“Studies have shown that caterpillars in the egg can
To get rid of active caterpillars,
withstand temperatures down to 31 below zero
Townsend recommends pruning
Fahrenheit.”
them out and destroying the nests
Populations of eastern tent caterpillars have been
climbing over the past few years. This trend is likely to
continue, he said, producing locally high numbers in
some areas. The rise in numbers is normal and mirrors
the cyclical aspects of insect populations in general.
According to Townsend, eastern tent caterpillar cycles
are roughly 10 years in length. After two or three high
years, the numbers usually drop again due to diseases
or natural enemies.
as they are seen, if practical. Any
one of several biorational
insecticides registered for use on
shade trees can also be used to treat
as needed. Spot treatments to the
tents and/or the foliage around
them can be applied according to
label directions, which vary by product.
Information about assessing trees for egg masses can
When mature, the large, hairy caterpillars wander from be found at http://www2.ca.uky.edu/entomology/
entfacts/ef449.asp.
their developmental sites along fence lines.
Consumption of large numbers of caterpillars by
Source: UK Ag News, March 26, 2015
pregnant mares precipitated staggering foal losses in
Did You Know? Spring can be a great time to multiply perennials that
bloom in summer and fall. Simply push a spade into large clumps and
remove a fist sized chunk with roots. Replant divisions and fill the hole left in
the plant with compost. Keep new plants and the parent clump well watered
to compensate for root loss. This technique is minimally invasive if done
when the new shots are just emerging.
Page 7
Pest Patrol: Carpenter Bees
In the late-spring and early
summer, homeowners often
notice large, black bees
hovering around the outside of
their homes. These are probably
carpenter bees searching for
mates and favorable sites to
construct their nests. Male
carpenter bees are quite aggressive, often hovering in
front of people who are around the nests. The males
are quite harmless, however, since they lack stingers.
Female carpenter bees can inflict a painful sting but
seldom will unless they are handled or molested.
Control
Carpenter bees prefer to attack wood which is bare,
weathered and unpainted. Therefore, the best way to
deter the bees is to paint all exposed wood surfaces,
especially those which have a history of being
attacked. Wood stains and preservatives are less
reliable than painting, but will provide some degree of
repellancy versus bare wood. To further discourage
nesting, garages and outbuildings should be kept closed
when carpenter bees are actively searching for nesting
sites.
Liquid sprays of carbaryl (Sevin), chlorpyrifos
(Dursban), or a synthetic pyrethroid (e.g., permethrin
Carpenter bees resemble bumble bees, but the upper
or cyfluthrin) can be applied as a preventive to wood
surface of their abdomen is bare and shiny black;
surfaces which are attracting bees. Residual
bumble bees have a hairy abdomen with at least some effectiveness of these insecticides is often only 1-2
yellow markings.
weeks, however, and the treatment may need to be
Despite their similar appearance, the
repeated. Tunnels which have already
nesting habits of the two types of bees
been excavated are best treated by
are quite different. Bumble bees usually
puffing an insecticidal dust (e.g., 5
nest in the ground whereas carpenter
percent carbaryl) into the nest opening.
bees tunnel into wood to lay their eggs.
Aerosol sprays labeled for wasp or bee
Bare, unpainted or weathered
control also are effective. Leave the
softwoods are preferred, especially
hole open for a few days after
redwood, cedar, cypress and pine.
treatment to allow the bees to contact
Painted or pressure-treated wood is
and distribute the insecticide
much less susceptible to attack.
throughout the nest galleries. Then
Common nesting sites include eaves, window trim,
plug the entrance hole with a piece of wooden dowel
facia boards, siding, wooden shakes, decks and outdoor coated with carpenter's glue, or wood putty. This will
furniture.
protect against future utilization of the old nesting
tunnels and reduce the chances of wood decay.
Carpenter bees overwinter as adults in wood within
abandoned nest tunnels. They emerge in the spring,
Although carpenter bees are less aggressive than wasps,
usually in April or May. After mating, the fertilized
female bees provisioning their nests will sting.
females excavate tunnels in wood and lay their eggs
Treatment is best performed at night when the bees are
within a series of small cells. The cells are provisioned less active, or while wearing protective clothing.
with a ball of pollen on which the larvae feed,
Revised: 2/94
emerging as adults in late summer. The entrance hole
CAUTION! Pesticide recommendations in this
and tunnels are perfectly round and about the
publication are registered for use in Kentucky, USA
diameter of your finger. Coarse sawdust the color of
ONLY! The use of some products may not be legal in
fresh cut wood will often be present beneath the
entry hole, and burrowing sounds may be heard from your state or country. Please check with your local
county agent or regulatory official before using any
within the wood. Female carpenter bees may
excavate new tunnels for pesticide mentioned in this publication.
egg laying, or enlarge and Of course, ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW
reuse old ones. The extent LABEL DIRECTIONS FOR SAFE USE OF ANY
of damage to wood which PESTICIDE!
has been utilized for
Source: Mike Potter, Extension Entomologist University of Kentucky
nesting year after year may be considerable.
College of Agriculture
9:00-9:30 a.m. Registration
9:30-10:30
Nearly Fool Proof Flowers with Jamie Dockery
10:40-11:30
Cooking Demonstration
11:30-12:00
Lunch
with Allison Davis, Wild Thyme Cooking School
catered by Wild Thyme
12:00-2:15p.m. Breakout Sessions
Session A: 12:00-12:45
2:25 p.m.
Session B: 12:50-1:35
Session C: 1:40-2:25
Adjourn
Breakout Sessions (you will choose 3 of 4):
#1 - Ready, Set, Grow! - Amanda Sears
#2 - Everyday Arrangements from Your Garden - Mike Reed
#3 - Monarch Butterflies - Joanna Kirby
#4 - House Plants 101 - Alexis Amorese
Sponsored by: Bluegrass Area Extension Family & Consumer Sciences
Agents. Living Well seminars are projects of the University of Kentucky Cooperative
Service to advance locally grown, nutritious food and healthy lifestyles.
Please complete and return this registration form with a $15 check payable to “Community FCS Program.”
Mail to: Fayette Extension Office/Living Well, 1140 Red Mile Place, Lexington, KY 40504
Registration includes lunch and program.
Deadline is May 1st. Limited seating, first come, first served.
Name:
.
Telephone:
.
Address:
.
City:_______________________ Zip Code:______________ Email:
Breakout Sessions (please circle your 3 choices) :
#1
#2
#3
#4
Living Well: The Gardening Edition
Details: Living Well: The Gardening Edition is Friday, May 8, 2015.
Registration begins @ 9:00am. Seminar fee is $15 per person.
This includes program and lunch. Pre-registration is required, first come, first served.
Location: This program will be held at the Fayette County Cooperative Extension Center,
1140 Red Mile Place, Lexington, KY (see map on right).
Parking: There is limited parking at Fayette
County Extension Center, therefore, carpooling is
encouraged.
Seminar fee: $15.00 per person
Registration Deadline:
May 1, 2015—Limited seating.
First come, first served.
Please make checks payable to, and mail to:
Community FCS Program
Fayette County Extension Office/Living Well,
1140 Red Mile Place, Lexington, KY 40504
Bluegrass Area FCS Agents:
If you have any questions, please contact your county:
Bourbon County:
(859) 987-1895
Clark County:
Jennifer Austin
(859) 744-4682
Estill County:
Chelsea Bicknell
(606) 723-4557
Fayette County:
Diana Doggett and
Liz Kingsland
(859) 257-5582
Harrison County:
Benita Peoples
(859) 234-5510
Madison County:
Gina Noe
(859) 623-4072
Nicholas County:
Rachel Abney
(859) 289-2312
Powell County:
Pam Dooley
(606) 663-6405
Scott County:
Connie Minch
(502) 863-0984
Cooperative Extension Service
University of Kentucky
Fayette County Cooperative Extension Service
1140 Red Mile Place
Lexington, KY 40504-1172
NONPROFIT ORG
US POSTAGE PAID
Lexington, KY
PERMIT 112
Official Business
RETURN SERVICE REQUESTED Fayette
County
By the Yard
Newsletter
Enclosed
Jamie Dockery and Delia Scott
County Extension Agents for Horticulture
Cooperative Extension Service
Fayette County Extension Service
1140 Red Mile Place
Lexington, KY 40504-1172
(859) 257-5582
Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service serve all people
regardless of race, color, age, sex, disability, or national origin.
UNIVERSITY OF KENTUCKY, KENTUCKY STATE UNIVERSITY, U.S.
DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE AND KENTUCKY COUNTIES COOPERATING
The Cooperative Extension Service prohibits discrimination
in its programs and employment on the basis of race, color,
age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.
To file a complaint of discrimination, contact: Rosemary
Veach, UK College of Agriculture, Lexington, KY 40546, or
Terry Allen, Associate Vice President of Institutional Equity ,
Lexington, KY 40546, or the Secretary of Agriculture, USDA
Director, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W Whitten Bldg.,
14th and Independence Ave. SW, Washington, D.C. 20250.