SELF INTRO & MOVIES Grace Jun. INTRO As a designer and strategist in the Mobile Design Strategy group at Samsung Electronics Headquarters for five years, I regularly engage in communication roles. Communication responsibilities that included writing press releases for annual mobile conventions, and presenting the company’s design strategy to customers, partners, and subsidiaries across the world. My experiences focused on consulting decisions for communicating design concepts. Preparation materials, articulating key messages, and identifying opportunities for design growth, were among the other experiences I’ve carried in the mobile division. My skills are in UX GUI design, user-centered research, graphics, and typography. My foundation in Graphic Design and internships in textiles or fashion industry, has influenced my choice to attend Parsons MFA Design & Technology program. I aspire to create and research wearable technology in particular, focusing on education. FIVE MOVIES WITH WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY Five movies that depict wearables are the following: Her, Enders Game, Total Recall, X-men, & Jupiter Ascending. A common element across all the movies are the integration of wearables with the surrounding sci-fi environment. Wearable technology is indefinitely influence by the cultural an social environments of it’s users. Her The subway scene of people speaking out loud without the use of cellphone. The immersive environment and technology of embedded electronics are seamless. Enders Game The scene of their first gravity cockpit fight. All the children had to wear gravity suits that let them float in space for training. Total Recall 2012 The social norm of phone-chips embedded in the skin. The scene of Douglas Quaid (Colin Farrell) ripping out his embedded chip from his arm, to prevent the military from tracking him. X-men first class Cyclops eye gear for control of his superpower (laser eye-beams) is influenced by the environment he is in. Jupiter Ascending The scene of Caine (Channing Tatum) with the flying boots that let’s him float in mid-air. He uses it to beam up to the spaceship. Again, wearables as a form of integrated transportation. 400 WORD ESSAY READING RESPONSE Feb 20, 2015 Reflection on readings regarding Wearable Technology & Mobile The intersection of mobile and wearable technologies have deep historic roots that intertwine and weave into each other. There are common threads between mobile and wearable technology since the 17th century: “Pocket watches [not only] provide the closest historical parallel to the remarkable rise of mobile cellular phones,” but also a pivotal point of fashion accessories in the making of fine jewelry and watches [1]. From the early Type 300 dial-up telephones to the 1990s FireFly Dress by Maggie Orth, the blurring of physical objects and invisible data has been a ongoing affair [2]. But wearable technology and mobile are physical representations of a greater driving force: data. The culture of data, cultivation of data, and design of data are core driving forces of future electronics [3]. Whether the electronics cross over to fashion to health, the data behind each service and product will be crucial. Sarah Scaturro recalls the conflicting of wearable technology and the harvesting of data from Iris van Herpen’s 3D printed “Skeleton Dress” in 2012: Can we collect the code? Is the code the object? Is this the object? [5]. The most obvious contradictions of data comes from culture which, is exemplified by the mobile phone. “The phone might be an international conglomerate, but it was put together in difference ways in different countries” [1]. The designing of data is a focal point for future (UX) user experience designers. The experience, strategies, and methods of understanding the consequences and effects of data will only empower design language. Most importantly, a designer’s intention on cultivating data sets. What will this data be used for? Will data be used to drive mankind out of employment by replacing jobs. Will data help educate a new generation of technology and craftsmanship? Sources: 1. Agar, Jon. Constant Touch: A Global History of the Mobile Phone. Copyright 2003, 2013 by Jon Agar 2. Fiberscene. Firefly Dress and Necklace 1997 by Maggie Orth. S . Online at http:// www.fiberscene.com/galleries/g_images23/orth24.html. Copyright ©2006 FiberScene 3. Gibbs, Samuel. The Future of Wearable Technology is Not Wearables- It’s Analyzing the Data. The Guardian. Online at http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2015/jan/06/futurewearable-technology-analysing-data 4. Seymour, Sabine & Amitai, Paul. Eyebeam. Computational Fashion. Copyright 2014. pg 93-94 RESPONSE TO MATERIAL CONNEXION TRIP Writing on 3 materials Material 1: Hanji Paper Hanji is extremely resilient and flexible. The material can be used to make sculptures, clothing, and even traditional doors for Korean houses. The material also has restorative properties such as, restoring torn old books. Material 2: 100% recycled silk Recycled silk scraps from sari manufacturing facilities, usually in India or Nepal. Where most factories just throw out or burn the fabric scraps, the silk is recycled into multiple colors. Material 3: Bioplastic/ Resin Common plastics, like fossil-fuel plastics are petrol-based polymers. Bio plastics are biodegradable and less harmful to the environment. They are also recyclable and can be made at home. QUANTITATIVE QUESTIONS Bioplastics for 3D printing & Wearable Technology The Proposal My proposal and research is focused on examining and creating bioplastics. The applicational possibilities for bioplastics can be an alternative material solution for 3D printing, in contrast the harmful petroleum based synthetics plastics used today. The 3D printing of wearable and fashionable technology designs can not only be biodegradable but, carry intrinsic properties of bioplastics that can encourages creative possibilities in materials for designing on the body. The Hypothesis Can bioplastics be created to be alternatives for synthetics fossil fuel plastics for 3D printing? Moreover, can bioplastic 3D printing encourage creative applications in wearable and fashionable technology such as, 3D printed accessories or garments that are based on natural resources? Quantitative (Focused Questions) Why use bioplastics for design applications in 3D printing than, synthetic plastics? What perceptions will change if bioplastics are used? Do you think people will create or purchase 3D printed designs differently, if they knew it was natural/ biodegradable? What is the demographic scope of bioplastic 3D printing? (users: manufactoers/ designers/ material scientists?) What group do you think will use and benefit the most? (Overarching Questions) How many people do you predict will would use 3D printing with bioplastics? (regular basis) Will 3D printing companies be willing to use bioplastics as an alternative? What are the cost factors and difficulties of production for companies to use as a mass filament? Can designers and creative technologists benefit from using biodegradable 3D printing? Will designers use (if so, how often) 3D printing for prototyping or creating products? What are the connotations or associated perceptions of bioplastic 3D printed wearable technology vs. synthetic plastics? What are the design limitations and creative possibilities of printing in a natural material with a short shelf-life? Bioplastics for Wearable Technology Grace Jun Design & Technology, Parsons 6 E. 16th St., 12th floor, New York, NY 10011 email: [email protected] ABSTRACT The revival of bioplastics is more prominent today in wearable technology as it has been in past applications for design. New materials such as, “TFT elastic skin and etextiles have been crucial” to envisioning the future of wearable technology” [1]. Bio-materials have been an optimal solution for several material manufacturing use case companies such as, Bio-in, Serria Resins, and the Whole Foods sold bio-containers from Quantum Designs. The permanent increase in bioplastic production capacity is anticipated based on the limited global resources on our planet [3]. This paper advocates bioplastics as an vital component to the future of wearable technology or fashionable technology with an emphasis on biodegradable design processes. Figure 1. Home-made bio- plastic prototype problematic. H&M and C&A are quick to discuss energy efficiency in their stores, increased recycling of clothing hangers, and their shift towards organic cotton. ” [4]. The possibilities of bioplastics can be introduced in the sustainability of fashion because of it’s ease to create in everyday kitchens and it’s innate properties as a mixture. The flexibility and durability of bioplastics are remarkable and dependent on the cooking process. Bio-plastics can be made in homes and everyday kitchens using tapioca flour, glycerine, water, and white vinegar. [Figure 1]. Keywords material technology, polymers, kombucha, bioplastic, biomaterials, circuit board, wearable technology, fashionable aesthetics, bio computation INTRODUCTION “The first plastics were made by using biomaterials, such as cellulose, casein or soy. These materials were partially forgotten after the possibility of obtaining plastics from petroleum and natural gas was discovered” [2]. The revival for sustainable and renewable materials is detrimental to the fashion industry especially when mass commercialized fashion is becoming more affordable. “Cheap fashion, however, has a cost. The World Wildlife Fund has estimated that it takes 8,500 litres (2,245 gallons) to raise 1kg (2.2 pounds) of cotton lint – enough to make one pair of blue jeans. Further complicating the sustainability of the global fashion industry is that recycling textiles is ORIGINS OF BIOPLASTIC The origins of bioplastics can be traced back to natural resins seen in ancient Roman amber, a fossil resin [5]. “The first known modern bioplastic, polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB), was discovered in 1926 by a French researcher, Maurice Lemoigne, from his work with the bacterium Bacillus megaterium” [6]. The study of bioplastics in particular, polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA), has already gained traction from companies trying to decrease the total consumption of petroleum based plastics today. The focus on biomaterials are deeply influenced by the deteriorating condition of our environment and our addiction to fossil fuels such as, petroleum. Permission to make digital or hard copies of all or part of this work for personal or classroom use is granted without fee provided that copies are not made or distributed for profit or commercial advantage and that copies bear this notice and the full citation on the first page. To copy otherwise, or republish, to post on servers or to redistribute to lists, requires prior specific permission and/or a fee. October 4, 2014, New York, New York, USA. Copyright 2014 Grace Jun PLASTIC & THE ENVIRONMENT There is a floating island of waste and garbage piles: The Great Pacific Garbage Patch is a collection of marine debris in the North Pacific Ocean. The island is not man-made. The island was formed by the overabundance of trash or marine debris that has naturally collected by currents of the gyre. “The amount of debris in the Great Pacific Garbage Patch accumulates because much of it is not biodegradable. 1 Many plastics, for instance, do not wear down; they simply break into tinier and tinier pieces” [7]. The alarming existence of such an island is an indication that plastics are one of the leading contributors to the pollution of the Earth’s oceans. In particular, “starch is one of the most attractive feedstock for the development of biodegradable polymers because it is relatively inexpensive, abundant and renewable” [9]. Starch can contribute to the development of the commercialized bio-plastics for the fashion industry. Gucci had already launched it’s bioplastic flats for the Prefall 2012 collection [Figure 2 right] For example, Prada’s plastic bag series in 1997 could sustainable to more sustainable bioplastics [10]. The plastic handles and body can be replaced by bioplastics mixed with agar. Agar bioplastics create a solid an resistant materials with tough skin as in the startup company, founded by Chelsea Briganti and Leigh Ann Tucker, who’ve launched a "biodegredible" – biodegradable and edible – cup [11, Figure 2 left] Figure 2. Edible packaging & Bioplastic Gucci Shoes Bioplastic for Wearable & Fashionable Technology Most of today’s synthetic plastics today use petroleum. “The transportation is the most obvious sector in decreasing the society's dependence on petroleum for energy. A variety of alternative fuels such as, ethanol, biodiesel (made from vegetable oil), and hydrogen produce little or no exhaust pollutants or greenhouse gases, and each derives from plentiful renewable resources’’ [8]. The development of the smart or “intelligent” garments provide greater versatility for designs that incorporates sensing, recording, or information-processing devices such as, micro controllers. The technologies developed for Etextiles and nano-technology is continuously driving the current growth of wearable technology and fashionable technology. Design conscious choices for smart materials and new wearable technologies will also encompass materials that are naturally intelligent. Some examples of intelligent materials are bamboo, wool, and bioplastic. So why can’t designers and technologist create new wearable and fashionable technologies utilizing bioplastics? FASHION & MANUFACTURING TEXTILES Although the transportation industry has embraced hybrid cars and created alternative strategies against utilizing petroleum, there are still other sectors where technology and energy consumption will play a vital role. Bioplastics are already applied to textiles, clothing, and “It takes about 500 gallons of water to produce enough fabric to cover one sofa. Half a billion people already live in regions prone to chronic drought, and by 2025, that number is likely to have increased five-fold, to between one-third and one-half of the entire world population” [9]. Figure 3. process from cornstarch http://www2.dupont.com/Sorona_Microsite/en_AU/assets/from_corn_to_clothing.jpg even accessories [Figure 3]. For example, the “Raincoat, named Rain Poncho, a product of the Spanish company Equilicua, is an appropriate example of bioplastic protective clothing produced from potato starch” [12]. The rain poncho is non-toxic and is comprised of The detrimental effects of water consumption and pollution further advocates a need for recyclable or biodegradable materials. Why can’t society increase the production and use of bioplastics for fashion? With the rise of Maker moments, DIY kits, and 3D Makerbot printer, there is an increase in rapid technology practices that utilize plastics. Is there a way to 3D print fashionable technology garments with bioplastics? Bioplastic fashionable applications and product design Three possible bioplastic materials that can be used for product designs and textiles in the near future are the following: polylactides (PLA), poly(hydroxy-alkanoates) (PHA), poly(hydroxybutyrate) (PHB), and bio-polyamide (bio-PA), thermoplastics based on casein (milk protein) and planted products: soy, kenaf, jute, silk, etc” [2]. 2 Mediterranean. Even the French fashion company Lacoste has developed a protective bicycle helmet that utilizes bioplastic material for helmet armor and cork for the inner layer [12]. The social movement for environment conscious materials, fashions, and manufacturing techniques was show cased at large for fashion week since 2009 with leading companies such as, The GreenShows LLC (TGS) [13]. Green fashion has already gained momentum with leaders such as, Stella McCartney’s 50% vegetable oil and a renewable natural material bags and Issay Miyaki’s ecofriendly ready-wear line [14, 15]. Other examples that can substitute for bioplastics are the Kombucha garments created by Suzanne Lee [Figure 4]. Bio-couture website]. Her experiments on creating dresses made of Kombucha, a type of fermented drink made with tea, sugar, bacteria and yeast, has exposed an innovative idea: growing fashionable fabric and vegetable leather [16]. The need for alternative resources is inevitable. Artist and bio-technologist, Phil Ross, declares “nylon will not last for long because the dying process consumes gallons of water” [17]. He advocates bio-fabrication through fungus as an intermediary layer between environment and skin; a living matter or wearable organism: “Colors can be generated by bacteria and fungus bacteria can even metabolize your vitamins or provide personalized medicine. Thus, living clothing is a future that encompasses biomaterials as possible form factors for fashionable or wearable technology. Figure 4. Richard Wool’s Foodscapes Project: Bioplastic circuit boards The possibilities for bioplastic circuitboards present an opportunity for wearable technologies to be sustainable and less harmful to the environment. Although, a bioplastic circuits cannot compensate for an entire hardware system, disposing a micro controller is already a solution to half the waste. Other wastes such as, small resistors, wires, or sensors will need an equivalent metal material that is less damaging like bioplastic. Silver circuit pens can write on homemade bioplastics to create circuits that use the Arduino micro-controllers with conductive glue. The possibilities of bioplastic circuit boards are dependent on the bioplastic material in combination of ingredients. Ingredients in addition to the basic bioplastic recipe (corn starch, white vinegar, water, and glycerin) can provide greater hardness in texture and substance such as agar powder, a jelly-like substance that is obtained from algae. Because starch is a mixture and not a compound, the combination of ingredients that result in greater thickness and durability of bioplastic can be formed. “The Italian company Bio-on, creates a biodegradable polymer that can be used as a substrate for electrical circuits. The organization are testing to find alternative materials for electronic devices using a formulate bacteria and sugar of beet waste” [19]. MIT- patented bioplastics have been used by Oliver People’s and have predicted a “growing interest that consumers are now ready for bioplastics. For example, bioplastics that are commercially available in the form of plastic cups, bottles and food packaging [20] Figure 4. Suzanne Lee, Bio-Couture BIOPLASTICS FOR HARDWARE & ELECTRONICS The research and creation of bioplastics for circuitboards are prominent in the works of Dr. Richard Wool at the University of Delaware and his lab project called Foodscapes, include projects such as, circuit boards made with food. His bioplastics are created by soya-bean oils with a glass-fibre substitute using chicken feathers. The keratin in chicken feathers are an equivalent strength as the keratin found in human nails [18, Figure 5]. Bioplastics & Heat testing Similarly to MIT’s research on corn based plastics, “a type of plastic called polylactic acid (PLA) (which is also produced from corn) is similar to PHA, but PHA has higher heat resistance” [20]. Tests on heat resistance can be 3 created with home-made bioplastics depending on the level of cornstarch added to the mixture. The amount of corn start and correlating heat temperature can be used to test the “shelf-life” of how long a bioplastic can last without degrading. can’t designers utilize natural plastics that can be biodegradable? CONCLUSION Bioplastics in combination with other materials can provide innovative and environment-conscience creations. The use of bioplastics as a substitute for harmful chemicals, electronics, and material manufacturing productions, will strongly impact the growth of wearable technology as a dependable renewable resource. 3D printing, connectivity, and the use of elastic e-textiles are among the few possible technological application for bioplastics. 3D-PRINTING & PLASTIC ALTERNATIVES Fabrication and heat play a vital role in manufacturing companies that are testing and producing bioplastics. Biomaterial companies such as the Quantum Designs and their WholeFood’s plastic packaging products or the Italian based lab and company, Bio-in, have been pioneering the renewal for biomaterials. “ Bio-on directly targets the food-processing sector (production and distribution), design and clothing. It provides all players with the technology required to produce and use PHAs in line with their own characterizations making bioplastics highly desirable materials for fabrication into biodegradable bottles and packaging” [21]. With the emergence of Makersfaires, labs, and DIY practices, 3D printing has become a large investment section of the technology industry. Can bioplastics replace synthetic plastics used by 3D printers such as, MakerBot? ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thank you to Dr. Sabine Seymour for encouraging my curiosities an professor Dave Carroll, for helping me flush out a clear mental model through research and analysis. 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