Double Edge Safety Razor Shaving Dr. John A. Allocca www.allocca.com 10/13/13 Introduction Today’s marketing campaigns try to convince people that multi-blade razors are the best razors to use. The cost per cartridge ranges from about $2 to $5. The shaving methods below use double edge razors and razor blades that cost about ten cents to sixty cents per blade. The shave from the double edge razor blade is as close as the multi-blade razor. There are two basic aspects to shaving. The first is to raise the hair above the skin, which is accomplished with heat and shaving cream. The second is to provide lubrication for the razor, which is accomplished by shaving cream. This article emphasizes hypo-allergenic products and minimal skin irritation. Razors According to the literature, a heavy razor is recommended so that the weight of the razor will do the work. However, for many, it is the opposite. A lighter weight razor can exert less pressure. There are several factors that affect a razor’s aggressiveness: the size of the blade gap, the amount of blade that is exposed, the cutting angle, which depends upon the razor design, and the weight of the razor. Increasing the angle of the razor can cause nicks and skin irritation. If a person shaves daily, a mild razor and a shallow angle should be adequate. Two razors are recommended. The Edwin Jagger Barely Chrome razor model DE89BA11, $46 from Lee’s, is medium in aggressiveness and medium in weight (76 grams, 2.6 oz.). The Feather Popular razor, $22 with a case from Lee’s, is mildly aggressive and light in weight (34 grams, 1.1 oz.). Start with the Feather razor and Derby blades. Razor Blades The type of blade needed depends upon the thickness of the beard, the skin sensitivity, the shaving style, and frequency of shaving. Many people use a shaving style that is fast and aggressive lasting no longer five minutes. Nicks occur easily with sharp blades and an aggressive shaving style. The Derby blades are the least sharp and may be more suitable to an aggressive shaving style. Purchase a sample pack of razor blades. Start with least sharp Derby blades. Razor blade sharpnesses are (the higher the number, the sharper the blade) according to www.shaving101.com: Feather 5, Bic 4, Kai 4, Wilkinson Sword 3.5, Crystal 3.5, Red Persona 3, Shark 2.5, Merkur 2, and Derby 1. Double edge razor blades are inexpensive, ranging from about 10 cents to 80 cents each. The Derby blades are the least expensive blades. The Feather blades are the most expensive blades. 1 Shaving Brush Using a shaving brush may not provide a better shave. The major reason for using a brush is for it to act as an exfoliator. When brushing the lather across or in circular motions on the face, the bristles remove dead skin flakes or anything else that is present on the skin. However, removing skin can also cause skin irritation. It is not recommended by this author. Shaving Cream Shaving cream helps to soften the hair and provide lubrication for the razor. If the shaving cream drys before the end of shaving, lubrication will be lost, resulting in nicks and razor burn. Unscented shaving creams are recommended for those with sensitive skin. The shaving cream recommended is the Alba Botanica Very Emollient Cream Shave, Unscented, hypo-allergenic, or any of Alba’s other hypo-allergenic shave creams. The Alba shave cream is actually a gel that doesn’t lather. It doesn’t dissolve in water without soap, which provides constant lubrication across the face. Some people complain that it gets caught in their razor. A double edge razor can be opened and cleaned easily. The Alba cream cannot be used with a shaving brush. After Shave Balm A razor will scrape some of the skin from the face. An after shave balm will help to heal the damaged skin and moisturize the face. First, apply Witch Hazel immediately after cold water is applied to the face. Apply a small amount of Alba Botanical Even Advanced Sea Moss Moisturizer spf 15, hypo-allergenic aftershave balm after showering. Methodology Heat makes the hair stand up. It is said that the best shave can be obtained by shaving after a shower or in the shower. Many people prefer to shave before a shower. A hot wet wash cloth is second best. Read all of the instructions below before shaving. 1. Apply hot water to a wash cloth. Then apply to the face for 1-3 minutes. 2. Apply the Alba shaving cream generously to the face. If the tube is cold, let it soak in hot water for 15 minutes before using. 3. Wash your hands with soap and water. 4. Use one hand to shave with. Use the other hand to pull the skin tight. 5. Begin by holding the razor at a 90 degree angle to the face, whereby the handle is parallel to the face. Stroke downward with the razor. The razor should not cut hair at this angle. Increase the angle by 5 degrees and try again. Continue this process until the razor begins to cut hair. This will be the angle that should always be used. For the razors recommended, 2 the angle should be about 30 degrees. Increasing this angle will make the razor more aggressive, which can result is nicks and skin irritation. 6. Shave with SLOW, SHORT, GENTILE, strokes being very careful not to increase the angle of the razor. 7. First, shave under the neck with the grain. Then, under the neck against the grain or across the grain. Next, repeat the procedure for the left face, the right face, below the lip and the front of the chin, and finally under the nose. If an area becomes dry, reapply shaving cream or wet the area, which shouldn’t be required with the Alba shaving cream. The area under the nose is the most difficult to shave against the grain. One may want to settle for across the grain under the nose. Be sure to push out these areas with the tongue. Rinse the razor with hot water after shaving each area. 8. Wash the face with cold water. 9. Apply Witch Hazel to the face, which is used to heal minor cuts and skin irritation. 10. Open and dry the razor before storing it. 11. Apply aftershave balm to moisturize the face after showering. Resources For further advice and products, call Lee at Lee’s Razors (800) 503-5001 or see www.leesrazors.com Alba Botanical products are often found in heath food stores. 3