T O A S T. C O . U K 0844 557 5200 SIX WORKING MEN Our photographs for this book are a (modest) homage to Irving Penn and his great Small Trades series - portraits, shot in 1950/51, of tradesmen in Paris, London, New York, dressed in their work clothes, carrying the tools of their trades. Neil Gavin took these pictures - portraits of six interesting men shot over two thoroughly enjoyable days. It felt very refreshing to be taking pictures of individuals as they are, dressed as they might be - no pretense. It felt like the right way to show these clothes. The eagle-eyed might notice repeated connections between the men here and Caught by the River, the excellent website/gentle affiliation of the like-minded; and Port Eliot Festival, the discreet queen of festivals. We have no official connection to either but this book’s second homage is to both for providing wonderful times and propitious meetings in summer ‘12. 4 5 LOUIS ELIOT Louis Eliot has been playing guitar, singing, writing songs since his years could be measured in single figures. He was shown his way around guitar by the Hawkwind guitarist; kept on course as a teenager when, walking home after a gig for which he’d had to battle nerves, a familiar voice came from the shadows: ‘nice singing, Lewis’. The voice was Joe Strummer’s. Through the 90s he fronted top-20-album band Rialto; played bass for Evan Dando; played guitar with Skye from Morcheeba. He now lives with his family in Cornwall, his native county, and leads Louis Eliot and the Embers - though occasionally taking to the road to play guitar for Grace Jones. If you think his surname might reveal a connection to the Port Eliot Festival - you might be right. Joe Strummer was right about his voice - a clear, light tenor with just a hint of fallen angel about it. On stage with the Embers he disappears into his songs and the band fly. Their album is called Kittow’s Moor, a blend of folk, country and rock’n’roll that can’t help itself from rocking. We recommend it - our current music of choice, Friday evenings, to remind us that the weekend nights are for dancing. Listen to it, buy it at louiseliot.com or iTunes or all the usual suspects. R A I N C O AT page 08 D R I L L S T R A I G H T L E G T R O U S E R page 38 F I N E S T R I P E L O N G S L E E V E T E E , P L I M S O L L page 21 6 7 H O O D E D T O P overleaf L I G H T P I Q U É C O T T O N T R O U S E R page 20 L O O P B A C K Z I P N E C K S W E AT E R T E E S H I R T both overleaf 8 9 R A I N C O AT Double breasted raincoat in teflon coated, water resistant, 14oz cotton canvas. Easy fit. Two large patch pockets. Poplin lined. Removable storm collar. Dry clean. See also page 5. Airforce Grey, Washed Khaki Sizes 38 – 44 . Length 34.5” . 90AA9 . £295 L O O P B A C K Z I P N E C K S W E AT E R In medium weight loopback cotton jersey. Collar with zip pull. Slanted side pockets. Ribbed cuffs and hem. Cool machine wash. See also previous page. Washed Navy Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 28” 96AF9 . £95 HOODED TOP Easy, straight cut. Medium weight, soft cotton jersey. Hood with crossover at front. Cool machine wash. See also page 6. Valerian Pink, Oatmeal, Sea Green Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 28” 96AC9 . £69 TEE SHIRT Classic, straight cut tee in fabric as above. Crew neck. Single breast pocket. Cool machine wash. See also page 7. Oatmeal, Sea Green, Valerian Pink Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 29” 96AA9 . £39 10 11 JOHN ANDREWS John Andrews, also known as ‘Andrews of Arcadia’, is an author, a printer, a brave survivor of the Indie music business and a dealer in ‘vintage fishing tackle for the soul’. And a gentleman. Last summer he was to be found at the Caught by the River section of the Port Eliot Festival. Appropriately within earshot of the lapping of the River Lynher he hosted the festival’s smallest tent where, to contented and sun-kissed audiences of no more than twenty, authors read their elegiac tales of angling: fishing as backbone to quietly perceptive, meandering narrative; fishing as life-metaphor – fishing stories for the soul. John Andrews writes a daily blog at andrewsofarcadia.com as well as pieces for Caught by the River and other publications. His book, For All Those Left Behind (Mainstream Publishing) is currently out of print, but is well worth seeking out - we believe Rough Trade East still has a few copies left. John can be found ‘putting my wares out on the velvet for sales to passers-by’ on most Thursdays at Spitalfields Antiques Market between 8am and 3pm. andrewsofarcadia.com M I C R O D O G T O O T H S H I R T page 22 V I N TA G E W E A V E T R O U S E R , B O X C L O T H B R A C E S page 15 12 13 L I N E N S H I R T, V I N TA G E W E A V E W A I S T C O AT W A S H E D C O T T O N H E R R I N G B O N E T R O U S E R all overleaf V I N TA G E W E A V E W A I S T C O AT opposite & overleaf 14 15 V I N TA G E W E A V E J A C K E T Softly tailored, three button jacket in 15oz natural, washed hemp – the closest fabric we found to a heavy 19th century linen. Single vent. Unlined. Three external pockets, two internal. Corozo buttons. Dry clean. For a close-up of the fabric, see page 13. Dark White Sizes 38 – 44 . Length 30” . 95AL9 . £265 V I N TA G E W E A V E T R O U S E R Lightly tailored, straight leg trousers in fabric as above. Buttons for braces. Two side and two back pockets. Button fly. Dry clean. See also page 11, and for or a close-up of the fabric, page 13. Dark White . Sizes 30 – 36 Hem circ. 17.5”, Inside leg 32.5” (94JL9) Inside leg 30.5” (94JR9) . £155 LINEN SHIRT BOXCLOTH BRACES Regular fit, pull-on shirt in supple 6oz linen. Single breast pocket. Box pleat into back yoke. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also page 12, and for the other colour, page 22. Washed Indigo, Cream Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30” . 92AF9 . £110 V I N TA G E W E A V E W A I S T C O AT Softly tailored, eight button waistcoat in 15oz natural, washed hemp – a close-woven fabric, the nearest we could find to a 19th century linen. Hemp back with buttoned tab. Weighty cotton twill lining. Two full width pockets divided into two sections each. One breast pocket. Corozo buttons. Dry clean. For a close-up of the fabric, see previous page. Dark White Sizes 38 – 44 . Length 25” . 9GAC9 . £135 WASHED COTTON HERRINGBONE TROUSER Straight leg trouser in 8oz washed cotton herringbone. Buttons for braces. Buttoned patch pocket on right leg. Two side and two back pockets. Button fly. Machine wash. See also page 12, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 33. Indigo Sizes 30 – 36 . Hem circ. 17.5”, Inside leg 32.5” (94BL9) Inside leg 30.5” (94BR9) . £155 Broad, button-on, box-cloth – a sort of wool felt – braces. Adjustable. Leather and chrome fitments. See also page 11. Green/Black, Navy/Tan, Saxe Blue/Tan Width 4cm . 9HATA . £49 16 17 RICHARD KING Richard King has worked at the heart of the independent music industry for twenty-odd years, from founding a label in his bedroom to looking after a&r for Domino Records as they released albums by Arctic Monkeys, Franz Ferdinand, Bonnie Prince Billie and many others - that label has an amazing list! He is the co-editor of Loops, an occasional journal of long-form music writing published jointly by Faber and Domino. He has contributed to the Guardian, the Observer and many other publications. He is a regular contributor to Caught by the River. He lives with his family in his native rural Powys. His first book ‘How Soon is Now’ (Faber) is a landmark survey of independent music – the record labels and the inspirational, eccentric and visionary figures who created them. He is an honorary founding partner of The Do Lectures and lurks in the background of Domino Radio. Beyond all that – he’s a man of apparent and active intelligence, a calm getter-of-things-done and delightful company. how-soon.com D R I L L T H R E E B U T T O N J A C K E T, F I N E S T R I P E S H O R T S L E E V E T E E , L I G H T P I Q U É C O T T O N T R O U S E R page 20 P L I M S O L L page 21 18 19 S H I B U YA S H I R T opposite & page 23 20 21 DRILL THREE BUTTON JACKET Softly tailored, three button jacket in good quality, 10oz cotton drill. Single vent. Four buttons at each cuff. Three external pockets, three internal. Corozo buttons. Bound internal seams. Unlined. Cool machine wash or dry clean. See also pages 17, 27 and 29. Marine Sizes 38 – 44 . Length 30” . 95AN9 . £225 FINE STRIPE SHORT SLEEVE TEE Classic, straight cut tee in a light soft cotton/linen mix jersey. Crew neck with button fastened opening. Single breast pocket. Cool machine wash. See also page 17, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 32. Indigo/Natural Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 29” . 96AH9 . £65 LIGHT PIQUÉ COTTON TROUSER Softly tailored trouser with a tapered leg and deep rise. Washed, Japanese, 5oz piqué cotton. Two side and two back pockets. Button fly. Cool machine wash. See also pages 6 and 43, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 40. DRILL WORKINGMAN JACKET Light, simple jacket in 10oz cotton drill. Mandarin stand collar. Four external patch pockets, one buttoned. Four internal pockets. Unlined. Bound internal seams. Cool machine wash or dry clean. Marine . Sizes 38 – 44 Length 31” . 95AG9 . £225 FINE STRIPE LONG SLEEVE TEE Straight cut tee in light, soft cotton/linen mix jersey. Boat neck. Cool machine wash. See also page 5, and for a close-up of the fabric, see page 32. Indigo/Natural Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30” . 96AN9 . £69 PLIMSOLL Light Khaki Cotton canvas upper with textured rubber toecap and sole. Padded insole. Cotton lined. See also pages 5, 17 and 36. Sizes 30 – 36 . Hem circ. 16.5”, Inside leg 32.5” (94IL9) Inside leg 30.5” (94IR9) . £145 White, Black Sizes 41 – 46 . 9FATA . £49 22 23 1. 2. 4. 5. 1. MICRO DOGTOOTH SHIRT 4. FINE STRIPE POPLIN SHIRT Regular fit, pull-on shirt in very soft 4.5oz cotton. Very small, subtle dogtooth weave. Single pocket. Soft collar. Box pleat into back yoke. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also page 11. Slimmer fit, button through shirt in crisp, closely woven 8oz cotton poplin. Single pocket. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also page 36. Feather Grey/Ecru Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30” . 92AQ9 . £85 6. 3. Palest Blue/Dark Blue Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30.5” . 92AB9 . £95 5 . K YOTO S H I RT 2 . C H A M B R AY S H I R T Regular fit, pull-on shirt in cool and soft 4oz cotton chambray. Single pocket. Soft collar. Box pleat into back yoke. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also pages 27 and 29. Chambray Blue Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30” . 92AR9 . £95 Slimmer fit, button through shirt in crisp 4.5oz, cut jacquard cotton. Single pocket. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also page 35, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 41. Dark Blue/White Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30.5” . 92AC9 . £85 6 . S H I B U YA S H I R T 3. LINEN SHIRT Regular fit, pull-on shirt in supple 6oz linen. Single breast pocket. Box pleat into back yoke. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also page 12, and for the other colour, page 14. Cream, Washed Indigo Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30” . 92AF9 . £110 Regular fit, pull-on shirt in soft, Japanese 4oz cotton with a washed-down woven check. Single pocket. Soft collar. Box pleat into back yoke. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also page 19, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 18. Airforce/Old White/Multi Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30” . 92AE9 . £99 H E N L E Y P U L L O V E R page 31 26 27 J O H N N Y F LY N N Johnny Flynn is an actor, poet, musician and songwriter of extraordinary (but in no way boastful) talent. Most recently he has played Lady Anne and Viola respectively in Mark Rylance’s all-male productions of Richard III and Twelfth Night - long and very successful runs, first at The Globe and then at The Apollo. His band Johnny Flynn and The Sussex Wit released their first album A Larum in 2008, catching the revived interest in folk at just the right moment; their second album, Been Listening, was released in 2010: their third will be released this summer. Last year Johnny wrote and recorded the soundtrack for off-the-wall American comedy A Bag of Hammers. He’ll return to the stage at the Royal Court this May in Bruce Norris’s The Low Road, a fable of free market economics and cut-throat capitalism. In person Johnny is quiet, self effacing, watchful; on stage, something altogether else - and always worth catching. He was born and brought up in Pembrokeshire and now lives in London with his wife Bea and son Gabriel. johnny-flynn.com D R I L L S T R A I G H T L E G T R O U S E R page 38 D R I L L T H R E E B U T T O N J A C K E T, C H A M B R AY S H I R T, M E D I T E R R A N É E C A N V A S P L I M S O L L page 30 28 29 H E N L E Y P U L L O V E R overleaf D R I L L S T R A I G H T L E G T R O U S E R page 38 D R I L L T H R E E B U T T O N J A C K E T , C H A M B R AY S H I R T, M E D I T E R R A N É E C A N V A S P L I M S O L L all overleaf 30 31 HENLEY PULLOVER DRILL THREE BUTTON JACKET Softly tailored, three button jacket in good quality, 10oz cotton drill. Single vent. Four buttons at the cuff. Three external pockets, three internal. Corozo buttons. Bound internal seams. Unlined. Cool machine wash or dry clean. See also previous page and pages 17 and 27. Light, easy, ribbed pullover in soft, extra fine merino. Crew neck with a hook-and-eye fastened opening. Cotton herringbone placket. Rib trim at neck. Hand wash or dry clean. See also pages 24-25 and page 28. Sizes 38 – 44 . Length 30” . 95AN9 . £225 Oatmeal Melange,Grey Melange Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 28” 98AF9 . £119 C H A M B R AY S H I R T S P, M A C A N V A S H I G H T O P S Regular fit, pull-on shirt in cool and soft 4oz cotton chambray. Single pocket. Soft collar. Box pleat into back yoke. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also previous page and page 27. High top trainers from Veja. Organic cotton canvas upper with leather trim and rubber sole. Cushioned inside. Made in Brazil. Chambray Blue Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30” . 92AR9 . £95 Sizes 41 – 46 . Height 14cm 9FAB9 . £105 Marine M E D I T E R R A N É E C A N VA S P L I M S O L L Part-plimsoll, part-boat shoe from Veja. Organic cotton canvas upper and vulcanised rubber sole. Cushioned insole. Made in Brazil. See also previous page and page 27. Camel/White, Navy/White Sizes 41 – 46 . 9FAC9 . £49 Navy/Carmine 32 33 F I N E S T R I P E S H O R T S L E E V E T E E pages 17 & 20 W A S H E D C O T T O N H E R R I N G B O N E T R O U S E R pages 12 & 14 34 35 NICO RENSON Nico Renson is a songwriter and producer for the likes of Macy Gray and Kelis. He began his life in a distant corner of Belgium, his career in a less remote corner - where he graduated as a film director - whence he moved to London to pursue his ambitions in music. In a pair of skinny jeans he fronted a punk-rock band and played every pub within the M25 at least twice, but became disillusioned with the reality of band life and began writing for a solo album. His debut album, Play to My Own Tune, was released under his stage name, Bunny, in the U.S. and Japan. Nico is very tall, thoughtful, serious but ironical in a Flemish escapee way, and has startlingly blue eyes. His music can be heard on his website, nicorenson.com K Y O T O S H I R T pages 38 & 41 D R I L L S T R A I G H T L E G T R O U S E R page 38 36 37 F I N E S T R I P E P O P L I N S H I R T page 23 P L I M S O L L page 48 P I Q U É C O T T O N J A C K E T, B E D F O R D C O R D S T R A I G H T L E G J E A N S page 39 B E D F O R D C O R D S T R A I G H T L E G J E A N S opposite & overleaf 38 39 PIQUÉ COTTON JACKET K YOTO S H I RT Slimmer fit, button through shirt in crisp 4.5oz, cut jacquard cotton. Single pocket. Corozo buttons. Cool machine wash. See also page 35, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 41. Dark Blue/White Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 30.5” 92AC9 . £85 DRILL STRAIGHT LEG TROUSER Straight leg trouser in good quality 10oz cotton drill. Buttons for braces. Two side and two back pockets. Button fly. Cool machine wash. See also pages 5, 29 and 35. Lightly tailored, three button jacket in washed, Japanese, 5oz piqué cotton. Single vent. Four buttons at the cuff. Three external pockets, three internal. Corozo buttons. Cotton lined. Cool machine wash or dry clean. See also page 36, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 40. Light Khaki . Sizes 38 – 44 Length 31.5” . 95AJ9 . £225 BEDFORD CORD STRAIGHT LEG JEANS Casual, straight leg trouser in washed, 9oz cotton. Bedford cord is a corded cotton twill - different from corduroy, where the cording is formed from a cut pile. Two side and two back pockets. Button fly. Cool machine wash. See also pages 36 and 44, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 37. Marine, Sand Blue/Black, Limewash Sizes 30 - 36 . Hem circ. 17.5”, Inside leg 32.5” (94EL9) Inside leg 30.5” (94ER9) . £145 Sizes 30 – 36 . Hem circ. 19.5”, Inside leg 32.5” (94ML9) Inside leg 30.5” (94MR9) . £135 40 41 L I G H T P I Q U É C O T T O N T R O U S E R page 20 & overleaf K Y O T O S H I R T pages 35 & 38 42 43 THOM HUNT Thom Hunt is a fisherman, hunter, forager, scuba diver, teacher of all these things… and television presenter: two series of Channel 4’s Three Hungry Boys, in which he and two friends were challenged to survive in the Hebrides with nothing but a battered old VW camper van (and absolutely no money) by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. Thom has since moved from the River Cottage hub in Devon to the far reaches of Cornwall, where he runs exciting residential courses in wild food foraging/cooking and general living handin-hand with nature from an isolated, rudimentary (and lovely) cottage on the banks of the River Fal. This year Thom also plans to climb Everest. He’s a man of great zest, infectious enthusiasm and relish for life. He likes nothing better than spending time in the Great Outdoors, Having Adventures. People love his courses, for more about which, visit 7thrise.co.uk F I S H E R M A N ’ S S W E AT E R page 46 F A C T E U R C A N V A S B A G page 47 L I G H T P I Q U É C O T T O N T R O U S E R pages 20 & 40 44 45 B E D F O R D C O R D S T R A I G H T L E G J E A N S page 39 D E S E R T A N O R A K , W A S H E D I N D I G O T E E S H I R T, TA U A C A N V A S T E N N I S S H O E S overleaf D E S E R T A N O R A K opposite & page 47 46 47 DESERT ANORAK Pared back, teflon coated anorak in 8oz cotton, very closely woven for water and wind resistance. Capacious fit. Drawstring hood and hem. Zip fastening. Two buttoned patch pockets. Shoulders and hood are lined in self, otherwise unlined. Bound internal seams. Cool machine wash or dry clean. See also page 44, and for a close-up of the fabric, page 45. Desert Khaki . Sizes 38 – 44 Length 31” . 90AI9 . £225 FA C T E U R C A N VA S B A G Organic cotton canvas bag from Veja. Fastens with a leather strap and buckle. One main compartment with press-stud closure. Two front pockets. Internal pocket with zip closure, four leather-trimmed stationery holders. Adjustable, webbed canvas shoulder strap. Made in Brazil. See also page 43. Camel/Tuile, Black/Tuile W 46 x H 27 x D 11cm . 9BAB9 . £150 TA U A C A N V A S T E N N I S S H O E S F I S H E R M A N ’ S S W E AT E R Crew neck sweater in a robust, pure wool. Buttoned left shoulder. Rib at neck, cuffs and top sleeve. Rib and garter stitch hem. Hand wash or dry clean. See also page 43. Light Natural, Navy (see toast.co.uk) Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 28” . 98AA9 . £115 WASHED INDIGO HOODED TOP Easy, straight cut in indigo-dyed cotton jersey. Hood with crossover at front. Real indigo - so might rub and will fade with washing/time. Cool machine wash. Indigo . Sizes S, M, L, XL Length 28” . 96AI9 . £75 WASHED INDIGO TEE Classic, straight cut tee in fabric as above. Crew neck. Single breast pocket. Real indigo - so might rub and will fade with washing/time. Cool machine wash. See also page 44. Indigo Sizes S, M, L, XL . Length 29” . 96AM9 . £45 Tennis shoe from Veja. Organic cotton upper and textured, vulcanised rubber sole. Made in Brazil. See also page 44. Camel/White Sizes 41–46 . 9FAA9 . £59 48 49 S P, M A C A N V A S H I G H T O P S M E D I T E R R A N É E C A N VA S P L I M S O L L S T R I P E D C A N V A S B E LT ELASTICO SUEDE MEDIUM WALLET High top trainers from Veja. Organic cotton canvas upper with leather trim and rubber sole. Cushioned inside. Made in Brazil. Cotton canvas belt with a leather end to fasten into a brass buckle. Leather stay. Made in Italy. Soft, vegetable tanned suede wallet from Veja. Leather interior with a large, cotton lined compartment for notes and 6 card compartments. Elastic strap to hold closed. Made in Brazil. Navy/Carmin Part-plimsoll, part-boat shoe from Veja. Organic cotton canvas upper and vulcanised rubber sole. Cushioned insole. Made in Brazil. See also pages 27 and 29. Sizes 41 – 46 . Height 14cm 9FAB9 . £105 Camel/White, Navy/White Sizes 41 – 46 . 9FAC9 . £49 Tan/Greys, Tan/Naturals L (S)98, (M)103, (L)108 x W4cm . 9CAA9 . £49 Electric Blue/Biscuit, Brown/Biscuit W (closed) 12 x H 9.5cm . 9BAA9 . £65 TA U A C A N V A S T E N N I S S H O E S PLIMSOLL RIGGER BOOT PA N T H E R E L L A S O C K S Tennis shoe from Veja. Organic cotton upper and textured vulcanised rubber sole. Made in Brazil. See also page 44. Cotton canvas upper with textured rubber toecap and sole. Cotton lined. Padded insole. See also pages 5, 17 and 36. Tough, comfortable, go-anywhere, pull-on Blundstone boots. Oiled, water resistant leather. Cushioned insole. Chunky, non-slip sole. Beautifully knitted socks in fine merino with 10% nylon for long wear. Made in England. Cool machine wash. Camel/White Sizes 41–46 . 9FAA9 . £59 Black, White Sizes 41 – 46 . 9FATA . £49 Black . Sizes 41 – 46 Height 25cm, heel 3cm . 9FBTA . £199 Ultramarine, Clover (S)8-8.5, (M)9-10, (L)10.5-11.5cm . 9HAA9 . £18 50 51 MAIL ORDER Toast, Matrix House, Matrix Business Park, Swansea, SA6 8RE. Tel. 0844 557 5200. Email. [email protected] MENS IN OUR SHOPS Bath. 7 Bartlett Street, Bath, BA1 2QZ. 01225 335 023 Cheltenham. 82 The Promenade, Cheltenham, GL50 1NB. 01242 210 632 Guildford. 123 High Street, Guildford, GU1 3AA. 01483 458 525 London; Islington. 133 Upper Street, Islington, N1 1QP. 0207 704 8243 London; Marylebone. 44 Marylebone High Street. W1U 5HF. 0207 486 9272 London; Notting Hill. 191 Westbourne Grove, London. W11 2SB. 0207 229 8325 Oxford. 103 High Street, Oxford, OX1 4BW. 01865 723 436 TEAM Photography. Neil Gavin Styling. David Lamb Grooming. Paul Donovan Design. Toast Printed by Westdale Printing Group. T O A S T. C O . U K
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