Designer Custom Workbook special tips Pinch Pleat Arched Drapery, shown with buttons, contrast lined and interlined, and Braided Tiebacks. – Taper it yourself! Create your own taper by carefully positioning your tieback when dressing the window. – Self or contrast lining always a good choice when using techniques that may show the backside of the drape to the room. special tips Rod Pocket Drapery with Header and break at floor, has a wrapped band on leading edges. It is over Rod Pocket Drapery with wrapped band on leading edges and held back with Straight Tiebacks. – Banding on the leading edge will enhance the vertical nature of your treatments and make your windows look taller. – Sheers are now fashionable! Embellish them to add accent and visual depth to your treatment. Custom Window Project Sheet Clients name____________________________________Clients room_____________________________________Date_______ Window location (identification)______________________________________________________________________________ Step 1: Take Your Measurements Sill length______ CEILING LENGTH SIDE MEASUREMENT FLOOR TO CEILING LENGTH OUTSIDE MEASUREMENT FLOOR LENGTH INSIDE MEASUREMENT APRON LENGTH SILL LENGTH SIDE MEASUREMENT Apron length______ Floor length______ Ceiling length______ Window to right wall______ Window to left wall______ Outside frame______ Inside frame______ Number of windows in the room______ Number of these size windows in the room______ Other room or window notes __________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Step 2: Describe Your Window Treatment What kind of mounting system are you using? ● Board mounted ● Decorative hardware ● Traverse rod What kind of window coverings are you using? ● Drapery ● Valances ● Shades ● Swags ● Cascades ● Jabots Description of treatment __________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Everyone knows a picture tells a thousand words. Please use our window templates on the back of this form to sketch out your design (or include another visual reference) to help us better understand the look you are trying to achieve and translate your vision into a finished treatment. Step 3: Communicate Your Information Fill out our standard window order form. It will prompt you to provide us with all the information we need regarding fabrics, fabric placement and measurements so we can successfully assist you in completing you window design project. Checklist ● ● ● ● ● Custom window project sheet Measurements for each window size Standard order form with swatch Template for arched window Sketch, photo, magazine tear (or all three!) Delivery of custom orders will be based on the complexity of the treatment. Complex treatments may require additional production time and delay our standard 4-6 week delivery. Custom Window Templates Double hung window Arched window Picture window Cathedral window Casement windows Bay window Getting Started — Project Planning Before you start any project it is important to plan ahead of time. Here are some guidelines and tips for you to think about at the onset of any new project. Step 1: Prepare for your Project Allow Plenty of Time Measuring the Window is the most crucial part of the design project. It is important that you schedule enough time to take all your measurements. It will take you roughly 10 minutes to measure each window. A house of approximately 12 windows will take you at least 2 hours. This will be enough time to take a full set of measurements for draperies, valances and shades. Tip: Consider having your installer take measurements or accompany you while measuring the windows for intricate projects. This will help save time when it comes to defining the final design, details and installation of your project. Gather Your Materials Prepare ahead of time for your measurements so you can complete your task in one trip! Materials Check List • • • • • • • • Tape Measure Digital Camera Template Paper Pen/Pencils Protractor/Rulers Calculator Visual References (fabric samples/treatment sketch or photo) Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheets Tip: Using the Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheet for ordering standard treatments with ensure all details are considered and communicated uniformly to your team (assistants, installer, Robert Allen soft home workroom). Step 2: Did you consider...? Questions to ask and points to consider when beginning a window treatment project. • • • • Are the windows the focal point of the room? Play them up or down? How essential is privacy? Are light and temperature an important factor within the room? • Should the view through the window be a focal point or concealed? • How appealing are the windows and frames? • Are the windows sensibly place within the room? • Specialty windows Casement, Bay, Cathedral, Arched? Arched windows-need to send a template to ensure proper fit. • Measurements Measurements for all windows (include floor to ceiling, floor length, etc.) Just touch the floor? Crash or break on the floor? (add 1-2 inches) Puddle on the floor? (add 12-20 inches) • Width of Treatment Inside or outside mount? Face width of treatment? Finished width of treatment? Decorative rod length? • Functional or Non-Functional? Stationary vs. Moveable? Length of drapes for ease of movement? Overlaps to shield room from light? Stackback area (hide light gaps/don’t cover window when drawn.) Allow enough clearance in your returns and consider the styling of each layer and its effect, i.e. a slouch on top will reveal the under layer. • Hardware Decorative hardware? Send to site, rings to workroom if sewn. Traverse hardware? Right, left or center draw? Advise the workroom. Will your decorative hardware fit over your functional hardware? Pin-set, allow the ring/pin set variance for your length. • Projection Return of under layer. Return of over layer. Return of valance or cornice over drape, shade or sheer or all three. • Fabric Lining and Interlining for bulk? Blackout lining for sun? Lining for sun and bulk? Contrast fabrics for appearance (seen from outside or may be seen if has slouch, using swags, etc.) Lightweight fabric? Do you need weights? Do you need interlining? • Sheer Fabric Consider fabrication, as you will see hems, hooks, etc. through the fabric. Fabric repeats, advise repeat size, identify pattern to be featured, may require additional yardage. Wide width fabrics (over 54"?) Step 3: Measure the Window Designing window treatments must begin with accurate measurements so the end result will be a successful installation. The following tips apply to most situations and should be referred to from time to time as a reminder. General Reminders • Always use a steel tape measure. Tip: For accuracy in measurement, your basic tool should be a steel “pull-out” tape. The 20-foot size with the locking feature which will cover most projects and be your most efficient option. • Convert measurements to inches (not feet and inches) to make calculations easier. Tip: Always “round up” with your measurements. Rounding up to the closet quarter of an inch is the most common rule. • Always draw templates for arched window or other unusual configurations to make sure you provide the workroom with precise information. • A digital camera is a quick and easy way to record, store and communicate details of unusual window configurations or intricate installation issues. • Never assume that two apparently identical windows have precisely the same dimensions. Measure each window individually, and as carefully as if they were in separate rooms. Tip: For rooms with more than one window, bring enough project sheets for all windows in the room and create a sketch or floor plan so you may mark the windows and number them for identification purposes. • Take all your window measurements, regardless of your planned style. Inside mount and outside mount measurements should always be taken so you can be sure you have covered all your bases. • Visual references are a key ingredient when on location. If you know the fabric or type of treatment you are interested in, bring along fabric samples, (as well as a sketch or photo) to help answer any details that may be unique to your installation while you are on location. Step 4: Communicate and Save Your Measurements Communication is key! Communication for your current project and future projects will depend upon the clarity of your information and storing it properly for later use. Communication breakdown is a common reason for confusion and good communication should not be underestimated as an important project priority. • Communicate and Reiterate! Communication of new information is often difficult to absorb the first time. Don’t be afraid to over communicate your window and treatment details by providing treatment visuals with your measurements and fabric information. • Ask Questions! It is important to clarify any information that seems incongruent, unclear or that you just don’t understand. Asking questions is the key to understanding. • Communicate with your entire team. Don’t assume that certain members of your team only require certain information. Communicate all details of the fabric, treatment, hardware and installation site to installers, and assistants involved with the project. Tip: Keep all measuring charts, fabric references and sketches for future reference, they may be needed at a later date for additional or replacement treatments, and will be useful to have on hand. Measuring Guidelines — Window & Measurement Terminology Window & Measurement Terminology Measuring the window(s) in every room is the most important step of the window design project. The window is the foundation of your drapery treatment and the accuracy of those window measurements will ensure you achieve a successful and easy installation for each of your design projects. Before you can start measuring, you will need to know some basic window terminology. The basic parts of a double hung window are labeled in the drawing below. Casing The inside “frame” of the window which supports the sliding sashes. Lintel Support beams over windows and doors. Commonly the top of the window opening. Sill The horizontal “ledge-like” part at the bottom of the window. Apron The wood trim directly below the sill. Trim Molding The molding which surrounds the window opening. Mullion The vertical dividers between window frames in multiple windows or between window panes. Muntin The horizontal dividers between window frames in multiple windows or between window panes. Measuring Guidelines — Window & Measurement Terminology When you are measuring the window, regardless of your finished length, width or treatment choices it is always important to understand the measurements that need to be taken and the terminology that will be used. Here are some of the standard terms you will need to understand. FACE WIDTH CEILING LENGTH STACKBACK SWAG LONG POINT SWAG FACE WIDTH CASCADE SHORT POINT CASCADE LONG POINT FINISHED LEGNTH RETURN CASCADE FACE WIDTH FLOOR TO CEILING LENGTH OUTSIDE MEASUREMENT FLOOR LENGTH APRON LENGTH INSIDE MEASUREMENT FINISHED LENGTH SIDE MEASUREMENT SILL LENGTH SIDE MEASUREMENT Your window is part of a room environment that may effect your installation. Remember to look for elements in the room which may affect your design and include them in your notes. Things to look for for: • Floors and ceilings which are not parallel • Windows that are not square with floor or ceiling • Wavy walls or ceilings • Proper clearance between treatments so they hang properly • Obstructions which may be in the way of the drapery or other window coverings (ex: window cranks, air conditioners, heating outlets, door knobs, windows which open into the room lighting fixtures) Measuring Guidelines —Measuring for Finished Length The actual drapery length needed to cover any given space vertically is called the drapery FINISHED LENGTH. There are 4 basic drapery lengths: Floor Length, Floor to Ceiling Length, Apron Length, Sill length Floor Length & Floor to Ceiling Length Draperies. The placement of the drapery or valance above the window is generally considered to have the finest appearance For floor length draperies, generally the rod or board mounted treatment would be placed 2.5" above the outside of the window frame. Apron Length Generally the rod or board mounted treatment would be placed 2.5" above the outside of the window frame to a point at least 2.5" below the bottom of the apron. Consider the drapery hem and if you would like that seam concealed from the outside. This will achieve the most efficient blockage of light from the top of the drapery as well as concealing the rod or mounting structure from the outside of the window. Drapery rods or board mounted treatments are installed by measuring up from the floor at the shortest point, then installing the rod an equal distance from the ceiling, all across. If the distance from the lintel to the ceiling is less than 8", you should consider extending the drapery treatment to the ceiling for a floor-to-ceiling mounted drapery. All rod mounted draperies on rings need to take the pin setting (or hand sewn ring) into consideration for finished length consideration. For floor-to-ceiling drapery, measure several points, determine the shortest height from the ceiling to the top of the floor covering or floor surface and deduct .5" for a moveable treatment. This is the finished drapery length. All rods or board mounted treatments for windows in the same room should be installed at the same height so that it is visually consistent. If carpet installation is planned, you will need a sample of the carpet and cushion being used to understand the new floor height and how that should be subtracted from your measurements to achieve the finished length you desire. A break at the floor is recommended for any drapery side panels that are stationary. A break can be achieved by adding between 1"-2" to the total finished length. Puddling at the floor is used for more formal treatments and the desired look can command between 12"-20" added to the finished length. Drapery rods or board mounted treatments are installed by measuring up from the floor at the shortest point, then installing the rod an equal distance from the ceiling, all across. All rod mounted draperies on rings need to take the pin setting (or hand sewn ring) into consideration for finished length consideration. All rods or board mounted treatments for windows in the same room should be installed at the same height so that it is visually consistent. If rods are already installed consider the following recommendations: • Installed Standard Traverse Rods: Measure from the top of the rod to the top of the floor covering or floor surface. • Installed Decorative Rods: Measure from the pin-hole in the ring to the top of the floor covering or floor surface. Tip: If you are measuring in a room where new carpet is to be installed, always allow for the difference in thickness between the old and the new carpet. If rods are already installed consider the following recommendations: • Installed Standard Traverse Rods: Measure from the top of the rod to the length desired. • Installed Decorative Rods: Measure from the pin-hole in the ring to the length desired. Tip: Consider adding to the finished length for windows without frames to accomplish full coverage regardless of it extends to the floor, the sill or the apron. Tip: Mounting your treatment above the outside of your frame will hide your hardware, pins and heading from the outside. Measuring Guidelines —Measuring for Finished Length The actual drapery length needed to cover any given space vertically is called the drapery FINISHED LENGTH. There are 4 basic drapery lengths: Floor Length, Floor to Ceiling Length, Apron Length, Sill length Sill Length Generally the rod or board mounted treatment would be placed 2.5" above the outside of the window frame. From this point, measure down to the top of the window sill and deduct .25" for clearance. When specifying a sill length drapery, you should understand that a light streak is always present between the sill top and the drapery bottom. Drapery rods or board mounted treatments are installed by measuring up from the floor at the shortest point, then installing the rod an equal distance from the ceiling, all across. All rod mounted draperies on rings need to take the pin setting (or hand sewn ring) into consideration for finished length consideration. All rods or board mounted treatments for windows in the same room should be installed at the same height so that it is visually consistent. If rods are already installed consider the following recommendations: • Installed Standard Traverse Rods: Measure from the top of the rod to the length desired. • Installed Decorative Rods: Measure from the pin-hole in the ring to the length desired. Tip: Consider adding to the finished length for windows without frames to accomplish full coverage regardless if it extends to the floor, the sill or the apron. Determining Face Width and Finished Width The face and finished width of a treatment is dependent upon the design and type of mounting. The general guidelines below highlight functional drapery treatments with a draw as they require the most attention to detail. Stationary side panels, double rod installations and other treatments can be easily determined by adjusting the specifications for moveable treatments. To determine the finished width for most treatments you need to add your face width to your returns. The face width of the treatment includes the window width plus allowances for the stackback, overlaps, ease, and of course the fullness factor. • The stackback (extensions beyond the window) area is necessary so that draperies will not interfere with light and ventilation from windows. The general rule for stackback allowance for moveable treatments is one third times the width measurement. • Returns are the measurement from the rod (or board face) to the wall and is determined largely by the bracket or board your treatment is mounted on. • Overlaps are extensions on the leading edge of pleated draperies that close the gap to eliminate light. • Ease refers to extra fabric allowance added. • Fullness refers to the proportion of the width of the finished treatment to the width of your mounting area. Fullness is usually determined by the style of treatment chosen and can be effected by fabric choices. • Comparable Fullness: A method of adjusting the fullness of draperies on different windows in the same room to obtain consistency in visual appearance. Tip: If the drapery treatment comes within 12 inches of the adjoining walls, a wall-to-wall treatment is often recommended. Measuring Guidelines—Measuring for Window Types It is a good idea to use your Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheet to record your measurements for any window project. Arched Windows A paperdraperies template are is required measurements for your arched window design. Where fitted to to theobtain shapeaccurate of an arched window, a paper template is required, not only for shaping the heading but also for the hardware. Step 2: Create the Paper Template Step 1: Take your Measurements 1. Pin or tape a large piece of paper over each arch, either on the frame or on the wall. You will need to measure the whole arch. 2 5 5 3 2. With a level, mark a horizontal line at the widest part of the window. Trace the shape of the arch above the line onto the paper. Measure the distance from the horizontal line to the floor on both sides. When you have finished your measurments make sure you have them noted on your Robert Allen soft home project sheet as well as on your paper template. You may then remove your paper template from the window. If the curtains are to hang inside the arch, use the curve on the paper to shape the heading where you want it. If they are fixed onto the wall above the arch, increase the size of the arch to where you want to fit the track. Remove the paper and keep it safe. 4 1 1. In the center of the arch, the length from the top to the floor 2. In the center of the arch, the length from the top of the arch to the ceiling molding 3. Width of the window at the widest point 4. Depth of the trim molding, if present 5. Width available either side of the window Tip: take additional sill or apron length measurements if your treatment is expected not to extend to the floor. Measuring Guidelines—Measuring for Window Types It is a good idea to use your Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheet to record your measurements for any window project. Bay Windows 2 1 3 5 4 Step1: Take Your Measurements of the Bay: Step 2: Measure the Individual Windows Your installer must have the following measurements on your diagram. Always include a diagram of your with your measurements. Complete a map of the bay window that numbers each window and then provide a worksheet of complete standard measurements (use the Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheet) for each window. Tip: Remember to include the spaces in between and above the windows if they exist. 2 1 3 5 4 1. Length from inside corner to outside corner (left side) 2. Length of back wall 3. Length from outside corner to inside corner (right side) 4. Length from left wall to right wall 5. Depth of Bay Tip: Indicate whether ceiling mount or wall mount is best. A ceiling mount is usually the best choice, when the glass area is continuous around the bay, to cut down on light gaps. Bow Windows Adaptation These instructions and the overhead diagram can be adapted to bow windows. Add measurement 1, 2 & 3 together as your outside arc measurement. Measurements 4 and 5 remains the same. Tip: Rod Pocket Draperys and other casual treatments where fit is not required to achieve the look of the treatment work well for bays and bow windows. Measuring Guidelines—Measuring for Window Types It is a good idea to use your Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheet to record your measurements for any window project. Cathedral Windows When When you you measure measure cathedral cathedral windows windows you you should should divide divide the window between the upper half and the lower half. The lower half should be measured according to general drapery guidelines. the window between the upper half and the lower half. The lower half should be measured according to general drapery guidelines. Step 1: Take Your Measurements of the Upper Half Complete a worksheet of complete standard measurements for the lower half of the window. 4 1 Step 2: Take Your Measurements of the Lower Half 2 3 1. Length of longest point 2. Length of shortest point 3. Width of window 4. Length of upper slant (usually ceiling line) Treatment Styles Swags Swags, Cascades, Jabots Usually an uneven number of Swags is used so that one can be centered. There are five standard layouts that are generally used when designing with board or pole mounted swags. If an even number of Swags is requested, they will all point toward one side. Swags, Cascades and Jabots can be designed according to your specifications. Classic Center Center Under Center Dominant Overlap Left 4 1 2 3 Overlap Right 10" to 12" 12" to 16" 14" to 18" 14" to 18" 14" to 20" 16" to 22" 16" to 22" 18" to 23" 36" to 48" 49" to 70" 71" to 100" 101" to 125" 126" to 150" 1 2 3 4 5 Scarf Swags Scarf Swags are one continuous length of fabric. When measuring for Scarf Swags you should use a string or fabric to emulate the type of knot or loose swagging you plan to do. This will ensure you allow for enough length of fabric for the desired drape of the scarf. RETURN CASCADE FACE WIDTH SWAG FACE WIDTH SWAG LONG POINT Jabot A vertical embellishment that is usually placed between Swags. SWAG LONG POINT 20" 25" 30" 35" 40" 45" 50" 60" CASCADE SHORT POINT # of Swags per Window: CASCADE LONG POINT Board Face Width: FINISHED LEGNTH Average Depth would be: SWAG LONG POINT CASCADE SHORT POINT CASCADE LONG POINT FINISHED LEGNTH If Swag Face Width is: CASCADE SHORT POINT SWAG FACE WIDTH FINISHED LEGNTH WIDTH RETURN Cascade Tapered fabric commonly hung under, over, or along side of swags on the same valance. Like Swags, the top of cascades are folded or gathered, and the fabric creates a zig zag effect between the short and the long point. Cascades may end just below the swag, at the sill, at the floor or anywhere in between. CASCADE It is generally a good idea to allow one Swag for each 24” FACE WIDTH to 30” of track or board RETURN width. Recommendations on WIDTH width SWAG FACE and depth proportions are noted below. CASCADE LONG POINT Swag A valance or top treatment, draped into soft graceful folds that take on the shape of a half circle. Swags may be board mounted, rod mounted or ring mounted and are CASCADE usually accented with cascades and jabots. FACE Tip: Layouts are not necessary for Ring Swag treatments as they can only pertain to overlapping swags. You will need to note the following measurements when working with swags, cascades or jabots. 1. Face width of treatment 2. Return of treatment 3. Face width of individual Swag, Cascade or Jabot 4. Long point of individual Swag, Cascade or Jabot *short points will be figured for you, unless otherwise indicated Tip: Usually Cascades are 1/3 the length of the finished drapery length. Designer Notes Fabric Characteristics Fabric Design The type of fabric chosen can dramatically change the look of a window treatment. When choosing fabrics there are several attributes of the cloth and the design that need to be taken into consideration. • Drapeability: How well a fabric can flow or fall into folds in an attractive manner. Drapeability is the most influential factor in achieving the overall appearance of your treatment and it’s influence will be dependent upon the style chosen. Remember: Your treatment is only a 2 dimensional paper pattern until it is fabricated into a finished product. Pattern repeats need to be considered when you are choosing a treatment. Most fabrics are designed in a pattern or repeat that is familiar and the application and matching of that pattern will be obvious. However for patterns that have a large repeat, or are of a special nature you may want to provide specific information as to how you see that fabric applied to the treatment. • Weight: The weight of the fabric will also affect appearance. Common sense tells us that heavier weight fabric will respond more evidently to gravity. Heavy weight fabrics may also need extra support. Consider your hardware and your treatment type to decide if extra support brackets or different specifications are needed Tip: The impact of gravity can increase over time. If you have chosen a fabric that you are “not sure of”, don’t “risk it”. Even if it looks good on the day of installation, you may get a call later that things are not “up to snuff.” • Bulk: Bulk refers to the thickness factor of the fabric. Bulk needs to be a strong consideration every time you have a treatment with details like pleating or ruffling. You need to take into consideration how the bulkiness will affect the final appearance. Tip: Heavier bulk fabrics should never be used in Swag treatments or any other board or rod mounted treatments that pleat into a board or rod at the top. If the top line is not pleated neatly it will cause a wavy line effect and most likely disappointment. Tip: Increased fullness requires more fabric, therefore the higher the fullness factor the more important the drapeability, bulk and weight of the fabric. For instance, when using large patterns the central motif may only look good when placed in one area of the treatment. Isolated motifs may also require instructions for pattern placement. Remember, it is always better to overcommunicate your information and specifications so that the final product meets your expectations. Tip: Specific pattern placement often requires more yardage. Send the workroom fabric details and a large enough swatch of the fabric with your order so they may understand how much yardage will be needed ahead of time. Remember: extra yardage requires a custom quote. Railroaded Fabric Using railroaded fabric can be a possibility when you are working with window treatments that are top treatments. Railroaded fabric may provide certain efficiencies in the required yardage and will require a custom quote from the Robert Allen soft home workroom. Remember, railroaded fabrics are usually created with the furniture manufacturer in mind and are therefore often heavier in weight. This attribute makes them an obvious choice where drapeability is not a factor like cornices. “Railroading” Fabric which is designed “Up the Roll”. Railroading fabric that is designed “up the roll” means you would be turning your vertical design to be horizontal. This application can create efficiencies when your fabric is a “wide width” like 104" or 118". These fabrics can be railroaded to create draperies that have lengths less than 100" inches dependent on the style chosen. Railroading “wide width” fabrics will create a seamless application. You can also choose to railroad common width fabrics (50"-60") but should be mindful that this application will create horizontal seams across the treatment unless it is a valance. Fabric Types Silks Silk fabrics create wonderful treatments and have been continuing to gain popularity at the window. While silk fabric is strong, the fibers are delicate, and the impact of the sun needs to be considered. Lining is a must. Interlining is recommended. Interlining will also provide extra bulk and body and often provides the desired final appearance of the treatment. Sheers Windows treatments made with sheers have become increasingly more creative. “Sheers” was a term used to indicate a simple pinch pleated functional layer of fabric (with increased fullness) on a traverse rod at the window. Today “sheers” or sheer fabrics are used on valances, over drapes, and even shades. It is important to remember whenever you are designing with sheers what the understructure of that treatment is. Afterall, a sheer is a sheer so it is hard to hide secrets. Talk to the Robert Allen soft home workroom if you are getting creative with sheers at the window and they can help you understand how the fabrication of certain styles are more appropriate than others. Sometimes you can keep functional elements hidden by adding options like wrapped bands. Tip: When designing with sheers ask questions. Sometimes the fabrication of a product may not yield the finished look you are trying to achieve. Tip: Modernize your sheers by reducing the fullness factor. Things will suddenly look less “retro”.
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