Designer Custom Workbook
special tips
Pinch Pleat Arched Drapery, shown with buttons, contrast lined
and interlined, and Braided Tiebacks.
– Taper it yourself! Create your own taper by carefully
positioning your tieback when dressing the window.
– Self or contrast lining always a good choice when using
techniques that may show the backside of the drape to
the room.
special tips
Rod Pocket Drapery with Header and break at floor, has a wrapped band on
leading edges. It is over Rod Pocket Drapery with wrapped band on
leading edges and held back with Straight Tiebacks.
– Banding on the leading edge will enhance the vertical nature
of your treatments and make your windows look taller.
– Sheers are now fashionable! Embellish them to add accent
and visual depth to your treatment.
Custom Window Project Sheet
Clients name____________________________________Clients room_____________________________________Date_______
Window location (identification)______________________________________________________________________________
Step 1: Take Your Measurements
Sill length______
CEILING LENGTH
SIDE
MEASUREMENT
FLOOR TO CEILING LENGTH
OUTSIDE MEASUREMENT
FLOOR LENGTH
INSIDE MEASUREMENT
APRON LENGTH
SILL LENGTH
SIDE
MEASUREMENT
Apron length______
Floor length______
Ceiling length______
Window to right wall______
Window to left wall______
Outside frame______
Inside frame______
Number of windows in the room______
Number of these size windows in the room______
Other room or window notes
__________________________________________________________________________________________
______________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Step 2: Describe Your Window Treatment
What kind of mounting system are you using? ● Board mounted ● Decorative hardware ● Traverse rod
What kind of window coverings are you using? ● Drapery ● Valances ● Shades ● Swags ● Cascades ● Jabots
Description of treatment
__________________________________________________________________________________________
______________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Everyone knows a picture tells a thousand words. Please use our window templates on the back of this form to sketch out your design (or include another visual
reference) to help us better understand the look you are trying to achieve and translate your vision into a finished treatment.
Step 3: Communicate Your Information
Fill out our standard window order form. It will prompt you to provide us with all the information we need regarding fabrics,
fabric placement and measurements so we can successfully assist you in completing you window design project.
Checklist
●
●
●
●
●
Custom window project sheet
Measurements for each window size
Standard order form with swatch
Template for arched window
Sketch, photo, magazine tear (or all three!)
Delivery of custom orders will be based on the
complexity of the treatment. Complex treatments
may require additional production time and delay
our standard 4-6 week delivery.
Custom Window Templates
Double hung window
Arched window
Picture window
Cathedral window
Casement windows
Bay window
Getting Started
— Project Planning
Before you start any project it is important to plan ahead of time.
Here are some guidelines and tips for you to think about at the onset of any new project.
Step 1: Prepare for your Project
Allow Plenty of Time
Measuring the Window is the most crucial part of the
design project. It is important that you schedule enough time
to take all your measurements.
It will take you roughly 10 minutes to measure each
window. A house of approximately 12 windows will take
you at least 2 hours. This will be enough time to take a full
set of measurements for draperies, valances and shades.
Tip: Consider having your installer take measurements or
accompany you while measuring the windows for intricate
projects. This will help save time when it comes to defining
the final design, details and installation of your project.
Gather Your Materials
Prepare ahead of time for your measurements so you can
complete your task in one trip!
Materials Check List
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Tape Measure
Digital Camera
Template Paper
Pen/Pencils
Protractor/Rulers
Calculator
Visual References
(fabric samples/treatment sketch or photo)
Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheets
Tip: Using the Robert Allen soft home Custom Window
Project Sheet for ordering standard treatments with ensure all
details are considered and communicated uniformly to your
team (assistants, installer, Robert Allen soft home workroom).
Step 2: Did you consider...?
Questions to ask and points to consider when beginning a
window treatment project.
•
•
•
•
Are the windows the focal point of the room?
Play them up or down?
How essential is privacy?
Are light and temperature an important factor within the
room?
• Should the view through the window be a focal point or
concealed?
• How appealing are the windows and frames?
• Are the windows sensibly place within the room?
• Specialty windows
Casement, Bay, Cathedral, Arched?
Arched windows-need to send a template to ensure proper
fit.
• Measurements
Measurements for all windows (include floor to ceiling,
floor length, etc.)
Just touch the floor?
Crash or break on the floor? (add 1-2 inches)
Puddle on the floor? (add 12-20 inches)
• Width of Treatment
Inside or outside mount?
Face width of treatment?
Finished width of treatment?
Decorative rod length?
• Functional or Non-Functional?
Stationary vs. Moveable?
Length of drapes for ease of movement?
Overlaps to shield room from light?
Stackback area (hide light gaps/don’t cover window
when drawn.)
Allow enough clearance in your returns and consider the
styling of each layer and its effect, i.e. a slouch on top will
reveal the under layer.
• Hardware
Decorative hardware? Send to site, rings to workroom if
sewn.
Traverse hardware? Right, left or center draw? Advise the
workroom.
Will your decorative hardware fit over your functional
hardware?
Pin-set, allow the ring/pin set variance for your length.
• Projection
Return of under layer.
Return of over layer.
Return of valance or cornice over drape, shade or sheer or
all three.
• Fabric
Lining and Interlining for bulk?
Blackout lining for sun?
Lining for sun and bulk?
Contrast fabrics for appearance (seen from outside or may
be seen if has slouch, using swags, etc.)
Lightweight fabric? Do you need weights? Do you need
interlining?
• Sheer Fabric
Consider fabrication, as you will see hems, hooks, etc.
through the fabric.
Fabric repeats, advise repeat size, identify pattern to be
featured, may require additional yardage.
Wide width fabrics (over 54"?)
Step 3: Measure the Window
Designing window treatments must begin with accurate measurements so the end result will be a successful installation. The
following tips apply to most situations and should be referred
to from time to time as a reminder.
General Reminders
• Always use a steel tape measure.
Tip: For accuracy in measurement, your basic tool should
be a steel “pull-out” tape. The 20-foot size with the locking
feature which will cover most projects and be your most
efficient option.
• Convert measurements to inches (not feet and inches) to
make calculations easier.
Tip: Always “round up” with your measurements. Rounding
up to the closet quarter of an inch is the most common rule.
• Always draw templates for arched window or other
unusual configurations to make sure you provide the
workroom with precise information.
• A digital camera is a quick and easy way to record, store
and communicate details of unusual window configurations
or intricate installation issues.
• Never assume that two apparently identical windows
have precisely the same dimensions. Measure each window
individually, and as carefully as if they were in separate
rooms.
Tip: For rooms with more than one window, bring enough
project sheets for all windows in the room and create a
sketch or floor plan so you may mark the windows and number them for identification purposes.
• Take all your window measurements, regardless of your
planned style. Inside mount and outside mount measurements
should always be taken so you can be sure you have
covered all your bases.
• Visual references are a key ingredient when on location.
If you know the fabric or type of treatment you are interested
in, bring along fabric samples, (as well as a sketch or
photo) to help answer any details that may be unique to
your installation while you are on location.
Step 4: Communicate and
Save Your Measurements
Communication is key!
Communication for your current project and future projects
will depend upon the clarity of your information and storing it
properly for later use.
Communication breakdown is a common reason for
confusion and good communication should not be
underestimated as an important project priority.
• Communicate and Reiterate! Communication of new
information is often difficult to absorb the first time. Don’t
be afraid to over communicate your window and
treatment details by providing treatment visuals with
your measurements and fabric information.
• Ask Questions! It is important to clarify any information that
seems incongruent, unclear or that you just don’t understand.
Asking questions is the key to understanding.
• Communicate with your entire team. Don’t assume that certain members of your team only require certain information.
Communicate all details of the fabric, treatment, hardware
and installation site to installers, and assistants involved with
the project.
Tip: Keep all measuring charts, fabric references and
sketches for future reference, they may be needed at a
later date for additional or replacement treatments, and
will be useful to have on hand.
Measuring Guidelines
— Window & Measurement Terminology
Window & Measurement Terminology
Measuring the window(s) in every room is the most important
step of the window design project.
The window is the foundation of your drapery treatment and
the accuracy of those window measurements will ensure you
achieve a successful and easy installation for each of your
design projects.
Before you can start measuring, you will need to know some
basic window terminology. The basic parts of a double
hung window are labeled in the drawing below.
Casing
The inside “frame” of the window which supports the sliding
sashes.
Lintel
Support beams over windows and doors. Commonly the top
of the window opening.
Sill
The horizontal “ledge-like” part at the bottom of the window.
Apron
The wood trim directly below the sill.
Trim Molding
The molding which surrounds the window opening.
Mullion
The vertical dividers between window frames in multiple
windows or between window panes.
Muntin
The horizontal dividers between window frames in multiple
windows or between window panes.
Measuring Guidelines
— Window & Measurement Terminology
When you are measuring the window, regardless of your finished length, width or treatment choices it is always important to
understand the measurements that need to be taken and the terminology that will be used. Here are some of the standard
terms you will need to understand.
FACE WIDTH
CEILING LENGTH
STACKBACK
SWAG
LONG POINT
SWAG FACE WIDTH
CASCADE
SHORT POINT
CASCADE LONG POINT
FINISHED LEGNTH
RETURN
CASCADE
FACE
WIDTH
FLOOR TO CEILING LENGTH
OUTSIDE MEASUREMENT
FLOOR LENGTH
APRON LENGTH
INSIDE MEASUREMENT
FINISHED LENGTH
SIDE
MEASUREMENT
SILL LENGTH
SIDE
MEASUREMENT
Your window is part of a room environment that may effect your installation. Remember to look for elements in the room
which may affect your design and include them in your notes.
Things to look for for:
• Floors and ceilings which are not parallel
• Windows that are not square with floor or ceiling
• Wavy walls or ceilings
• Proper clearance between treatments so they hang properly
• Obstructions which may be in the way of the drapery or other window coverings (ex: window cranks, air conditioners,
heating outlets, door knobs, windows which open into the room lighting fixtures)
Measuring Guidelines
—Measuring for Finished Length
The actual drapery length needed to cover any given space vertically is called the drapery FINISHED LENGTH.
There are 4 basic drapery lengths: Floor Length, Floor to Ceiling Length, Apron Length, Sill length
Floor Length & Floor to
Ceiling Length Draperies.
The placement of the drapery or valance above the window
is generally considered to have the finest appearance
For floor length draperies, generally the rod or board mounted treatment would be placed 2.5" above the outside of the
window frame.
Apron Length
Generally the rod or board mounted treatment would be
placed 2.5" above the outside of the window frame to a
point at least 2.5" below the bottom of the apron.
Consider the drapery hem and if you would like that seam
concealed from the outside.
This will achieve the most efficient blockage of light from the
top of the drapery as well as concealing the rod or mounting structure from the outside of the window.
Drapery rods or board mounted treatments are installed by
measuring up from the floor at the shortest point, then
installing the rod an equal distance from the ceiling, all
across.
If the distance from the lintel to the ceiling is less than 8",
you should consider extending the drapery treatment to the
ceiling for a floor-to-ceiling mounted drapery.
All rod mounted draperies on rings need to take the pin
setting (or hand sewn ring) into consideration for finished
length consideration.
For floor-to-ceiling drapery, measure several points, determine the shortest height from the ceiling to the top of the
floor covering or floor surface and deduct .5" for a moveable treatment. This is the finished drapery length.
All rods or board mounted treatments for windows in the
same room should be installed at the same height so that it
is visually consistent.
If carpet installation is planned, you will need a sample of
the carpet and cushion being used to understand the new
floor height and how that should be subtracted from your
measurements to achieve the finished length you desire.
A break at the floor is recommended for any drapery side
panels that are stationary. A break can be achieved by
adding between 1"-2" to the total finished length.
Puddling at the floor is used for more formal treatments and
the desired look can command between 12"-20" added to
the finished length.
Drapery rods or board mounted treatments are installed by
measuring up from the floor at the shortest point, then
installing the rod an equal distance from the ceiling, all across.
All rod mounted draperies on rings need to take the pin
setting (or hand sewn ring) into consideration for finished
length consideration.
All rods or board mounted treatments for windows in the
same room should be installed at the same height so that it
is visually consistent.
If rods are already installed consider the following recommendations:
• Installed Standard Traverse Rods: Measure from the
top of the rod to the top of the floor covering or floor
surface.
• Installed Decorative Rods: Measure from the pin-hole in
the ring to the top of the floor covering or floor surface.
Tip: If you are measuring in a room where new carpet is to
be installed, always allow for the difference in thickness
between the old and the new carpet.
If rods are already installed consider the following
recommendations:
• Installed Standard Traverse Rods: Measure from the top
of the rod to the length desired.
• Installed Decorative Rods: Measure from the pin-hole in
the ring to the length desired.
Tip: Consider adding to the finished length for windows
without frames to accomplish full coverage regardless of it
extends to the floor, the sill or the apron.
Tip: Mounting your treatment above the outside of your
frame will hide your hardware, pins and heading from the
outside.
Measuring Guidelines
—Measuring for Finished Length
The actual drapery length needed to cover any given space vertically is called the drapery FINISHED LENGTH.
There are 4 basic drapery lengths: Floor Length, Floor to Ceiling Length, Apron Length, Sill length
Sill Length
Generally the rod or board mounted treatment would be
placed 2.5" above the outside of the window frame. From
this point, measure down to the top of the window sill and
deduct .25" for clearance.
When specifying a sill length drapery, you should understand that a light streak is always present between the sill
top and the drapery bottom.
Drapery rods or board mounted treatments are installed by
measuring up from the floor at the shortest point, then
installing the rod an equal distance from the ceiling, all
across.
All rod mounted draperies on rings need to take the pin
setting (or hand sewn ring) into consideration for finished
length consideration.
All rods or board mounted treatments for windows in the
same room should be installed at the same height so that it
is visually consistent.
If rods are already installed consider the following
recommendations:
• Installed Standard Traverse Rods: Measure from the top
of the rod to the length desired.
• Installed Decorative Rods: Measure from the pin-hole in
the ring to the length desired.
Tip: Consider adding to the finished length for windows
without frames to accomplish full coverage regardless if it
extends to the floor, the sill or the apron.
Determining Face Width
and Finished Width
The face and finished width of a treatment is dependent
upon the design and type of mounting. The general
guidelines below highlight functional drapery treatments
with a draw as they require the most attention to detail.
Stationary side panels, double rod installations and other
treatments can be easily determined by adjusting the
specifications for moveable treatments.
To determine the finished width for most treatments you need
to add your face width to your returns. The face width of
the treatment includes the window width plus allowances for
the stackback, overlaps, ease, and of course the fullness factor.
• The stackback (extensions beyond the window) area is
necessary so that draperies will not interfere with light
and ventilation from windows. The general rule for
stackback allowance for moveable treatments is one
third times the width measurement.
• Returns are the measurement from the rod (or board
face) to the wall and is determined largely by the
bracket or board your treatment is mounted on.
• Overlaps are extensions on the leading edge of
pleated draperies that close the gap to eliminate light.
• Ease refers to extra fabric allowance added.
• Fullness refers to the proportion of the width of the
finished treatment to the width of your mounting area.
Fullness is usually determined by the style of
treatment chosen and can be effected by fabric choices.
• Comparable Fullness: A method of adjusting the
fullness of draperies on different windows in the
same room to obtain consistency in visual
appearance.
Tip: If the drapery treatment comes within 12 inches of the
adjoining walls, a wall-to-wall treatment is often recommended.
Measuring Guidelines—Measuring for Window Types
It is a good idea to use your Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheet to record your measurements for
any window project.
Arched Windows
A
paperdraperies
template are
is required
measurements
for your arched window design.
Where
fitted to to
theobtain
shapeaccurate
of an arched
window, a paper template is required, not only for shaping the
heading but also for the hardware.
Step 2: Create the Paper Template
Step 1: Take your Measurements
1. Pin or tape a large piece of paper over each arch, either
on the frame or on the wall. You will need to measure the
whole arch.
2
5
5
3
2. With a level, mark a horizontal line at the widest part
of the window. Trace the shape of the arch above the line
onto the paper. Measure the distance from the horizontal
line to the floor on both sides. When you have finished
your measurments make sure you have them noted on your
Robert Allen soft home project sheet as well as on your
paper template. You may then remove your paper template
from the window.
If the curtains are to hang inside the arch, use the curve on
the paper to shape the heading where you want it. If they
are fixed onto the wall above the arch, increase the size of
the arch to where you want to fit the track. Remove the
paper and keep it safe.
4
1
1. In the center of the arch, the length from the top to the
floor
2. In the center of the arch, the length from the top of the
arch to the ceiling molding
3. Width of the window at the widest point
4. Depth of the trim molding, if present
5. Width available either side of the window
Tip: take additional sill or apron length measurements if your
treatment is expected not to extend to the floor.
Measuring Guidelines—Measuring for Window Types
It is a good idea to use your Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheet to record your measurements for
any window project.
Bay Windows
2
1
3
5
4
Step1: Take Your Measurements of the Bay:
Step 2: Measure the Individual Windows
Your installer must have the following measurements on your
diagram. Always include a diagram of your with your measurements.
Complete a map of the bay window that numbers each window and then provide a worksheet of complete standard
measurements (use the Robert Allen soft home Custom
Window Project Sheet) for each window.
Tip: Remember to include the spaces in between and above
the windows if they exist.
2
1
3
5
4
1. Length from inside corner to outside corner (left side)
2. Length of back wall
3. Length from outside corner to inside corner (right side)
4. Length from left wall to right wall
5. Depth of Bay
Tip: Indicate whether ceiling mount or wall mount is best. A
ceiling mount is usually the best choice, when the glass area
is continuous around the bay, to cut down on light gaps.
Bow Windows Adaptation
These instructions and the overhead diagram can be adapted to bow windows. Add measurement 1, 2 & 3 together
as your outside arc measurement. Measurements 4 and 5
remains the same.
Tip: Rod Pocket Draperys and other casual treatments where
fit is not required to achieve the look of the treatment work
well for bays and bow windows.
Measuring Guidelines—Measuring for Window Types
It is a good idea to use your Robert Allen soft home Custom Window Project Sheet to record your measurements for
any window project.
Cathedral Windows
When
When you
you measure
measure cathedral
cathedral windows
windows you
you should
should divide
divide the window between the upper half and the lower half.
The
lower
half
should
be
measured
according
to
general
drapery guidelines.
the window between the upper half and the lower half. The
lower half should be measured according to general drapery guidelines.
Step 1: Take Your Measurements of the Upper Half
Complete a worksheet of complete standard measurements
for the lower half of the window.
4
1
Step 2: Take Your Measurements of the Lower Half
2
3
1. Length of longest point
2. Length of shortest point
3. Width of window
4. Length of upper slant (usually ceiling line)
Treatment Styles
Swags
Swags, Cascades, Jabots
Usually an uneven number of Swags is used so that one can
be centered. There are five standard layouts that are generally used when designing with board or pole mounted
swags. If an even number of Swags is requested, they will
all point toward one side.
Swags, Cascades and Jabots can be designed according
to your specifications.
Classic Center
Center Under
Center Dominant
Overlap Left
4
1
2
3
Overlap Right
10" to 12"
12" to 16"
14" to 18"
14" to 18"
14" to 20"
16" to 22"
16" to 22"
18" to 23"
36" to 48"
49" to 70"
71" to 100"
101" to 125"
126" to 150"
1
2
3
4
5
Scarf Swags
Scarf Swags are one continuous length of fabric. When
measuring for Scarf Swags you should use a string or fabric
to emulate the type of knot or loose swagging you plan to
do. This will ensure you allow for enough length of fabric for
the desired drape of the scarf.
RETURN
CASCADE
FACE
WIDTH
SWAG FACE WIDTH
SWAG
LONG POINT
Jabot
A vertical embellishment that is usually placed between
Swags.
SWAG
LONG POINT
20"
25"
30"
35"
40"
45"
50"
60"
CASCADE
SHORT POINT
# of Swags
per Window:
CASCADE LONG POINT
Board Face
Width:
FINISHED LEGNTH
Average Depth
would be:
SWAG
LONG POINT
CASCADE
SHORT POINT
CASCADE LONG POINT
FINISHED LEGNTH
If Swag Face
Width is:
CASCADE
SHORT POINT
SWAG FACE WIDTH
FINISHED LEGNTH
WIDTH
RETURN
Cascade
Tapered fabric commonly hung under, over, or along side
of swags on the same valance. Like Swags, the top of
cascades are folded or gathered, and the fabric creates
a zig zag effect between the short and the long point.
Cascades may end just below the swag, at the sill, at
the floor or anywhere in between.
CASCADE
It is generally a good idea to allow
one Swag for each 24”
FACE
WIDTH
to 30” of track or board RETURN
width. Recommendations
on WIDTH
width
SWAG FACE
and depth proportions are noted below.
CASCADE LONG POINT
Swag
A valance or top treatment, draped into soft graceful folds
that take on the shape of a half circle. Swags may be
board mounted, rod mounted or ring mounted and are
CASCADE
usually accented with cascades and jabots.
FACE
Tip: Layouts are not necessary for Ring Swag treatments as
they can only pertain to overlapping swags.
You will need to note the following measurements when
working with swags, cascades or jabots.
1. Face width of treatment
2. Return of treatment
3. Face width of individual Swag, Cascade or Jabot
4. Long point of individual Swag, Cascade or Jabot
*short points will be figured for you, unless otherwise indicated
Tip: Usually Cascades are 1/3 the length of the finished
drapery length.
Designer Notes
Fabric Characteristics
Fabric Design
The type of fabric chosen can dramatically change the look
of a window treatment. When choosing fabrics there are
several attributes of the cloth and the design that need to be
taken into consideration.
• Drapeability: How well a fabric can flow or fall into
folds in an attractive manner. Drapeability is the most
influential factor in achieving the overall appearance of
your treatment and it’s influence will be dependent upon
the style chosen. Remember: Your treatment is only a 2
dimensional paper pattern until it is fabricated into a
finished product.
Pattern repeats need to be considered when you are choosing a treatment. Most fabrics are designed in a pattern or
repeat that is familiar and the application and matching of
that pattern will be obvious. However for patterns that have
a large repeat, or are of a special nature you may want to
provide specific information as to how you see that fabric
applied to the treatment.
• Weight: The weight of the fabric will also affect
appearance. Common sense tells us that heavier
weight fabric will respond more evidently to gravity.
Heavy weight fabrics may also need extra support.
Consider your hardware and your treatment type to
decide if extra support brackets or different
specifications are needed
Tip: The impact of gravity can increase over time. If you
have chosen a fabric that you are “not sure of”, don’t “risk
it”. Even if it looks good on the day of installation, you may
get a call later that things are not “up to snuff.”
• Bulk: Bulk refers to the thickness factor of the fabric.
Bulk needs to be a strong consideration every time you
have a treatment with details like pleating or ruffling.
You need to take into consideration how the bulkiness
will affect the final appearance.
Tip: Heavier bulk fabrics should never be used in Swag
treatments or any other board or rod mounted treatments that
pleat into a board or rod at the top. If the top line is not
pleated neatly it will cause a wavy line effect and most likely
disappointment.
Tip: Increased fullness requires more fabric, therefore the
higher the fullness factor the more important the drapeability,
bulk and weight of the fabric.
For instance, when using large patterns the central motif may
only look good when placed in one area of the treatment.
Isolated motifs may also require instructions for pattern
placement.
Remember, it is always better to overcommunicate your
information and specifications so that the final product meets
your expectations.
Tip: Specific pattern placement often requires more yardage.
Send the workroom fabric details and a large enough
swatch of the fabric with your order so they may understand
how much yardage will be needed ahead of time.
Remember: extra yardage requires a custom quote.
Railroaded Fabric
Using railroaded fabric can be a possibility when you are
working with window treatments that are top treatments.
Railroaded fabric may provide certain efficiencies in the
required yardage and will require a custom quote from the
Robert Allen soft home workroom. Remember, railroaded
fabrics are usually created with the furniture manufacturer in
mind and are therefore often heavier in weight. This attribute
makes them an obvious choice where drapeability is not a
factor like cornices.
“Railroading” Fabric which is designed “Up the Roll”.
Railroading fabric that is designed “up the roll” means you
would be turning your vertical design to be horizontal.
This application can create efficiencies when your fabric is
a “wide width” like 104" or 118". These fabrics can be railroaded to create draperies that have lengths less than 100"
inches dependent on the style chosen.
Railroading “wide width” fabrics will create a seamless
application. You can also choose to railroad common
width fabrics (50"-60") but should be mindful that this
application will create horizontal seams across the
treatment unless it is a valance.
Fabric Types
Silks
Silk fabrics create wonderful treatments and have been
continuing to gain popularity at the window. While silk
fabric is strong, the fibers are delicate, and the impact of
the sun needs to be considered. Lining is a must. Interlining
is recommended. Interlining will also provide extra bulk
and body and often provides the desired final appearance
of the treatment.
Sheers
Windows treatments made with sheers have become
increasingly more creative. “Sheers” was a term used to indicate a simple pinch pleated functional layer of fabric (with
increased fullness) on a traverse rod at the window.
Today “sheers” or sheer fabrics are used on valances, over
drapes, and even shades. It is important to remember whenever you are designing with sheers what the understructure
of that treatment is. Afterall, a sheer is a sheer so it is hard to
hide secrets.
Talk to the Robert Allen soft home workroom if you are
getting creative with sheers at the window and they can
help you understand how the fabrication of certain styles
are more appropriate than others. Sometimes you can
keep functional elements hidden by adding options like
wrapped bands.
Tip: When designing with sheers ask questions. Sometimes
the fabrication of a product may not yield the finished look
you are trying to achieve.
Tip: Modernize your sheers by reducing the fullness factor.
Things will suddenly look less “retro”.