GREAT SKIN! ISSUE 5 | NOVEMBER TABLE OF CONTENTS The Skinny on Skin Return of the anti-acne diet…indoor tan bans…tattoo risks…dangerous Byzantine beauty By Robert A. Barnett 3 Botanical Facials The Time-Out Cure, Avocado Delight Treatment Mask, and Sweet Orange Wrinkle Minimizer, excerpted from Your Best Face Now By Shellie Goldstein DIY Beauty: Get Zoe Saldana’s Look Seductive, smoky eyes and luminous skin Eco-Luxe Beauty Battle dry winter skin with natural products that pledge to protect and serve Who Needs It? When to use primers, toners, night creams, eye creams, wrinkle fillers – and when to skip By Stacey Colino How to Treat Thinning Hair, Brittle Nails and Other Beauty Disasters 15 natural, easy ways to get gorgeous, shiny hair and strong, beautiful nails By Brenda Kearns Global Beauty: 10 Skincare Traditions From Around the World From spicy body masks to seaweed soaks, the world’s women turn to nature in their quest for perfect skin and lustrous hair By Katie Alberts 7 Ways to Pamper Dry Skin Soothe itching, flakes and more By Laura Flynn McCarthy The Workout Glow There’s nothing better for your skin than a workout. Nothing. By Jennifer Abbasi 8 Ways to Exercise Comfortably When You Have Psoriasis No-sweat tips for staying cool and confident, indoors and out By Laura Flynn McCarthy DIY Beautify (Video): Contouring Make your cheek bones pop with simple highlights and contouring Why Is Skin Sexy? The science behind skin’s allure: Why we pluck, blush and wear red lipstick. Or not. By Jennifer Abbasi NEWS The Return of the Anti-Acne Diet? Diet might affect acne after all. For years, many dermatologists have called it a myth. Yet new studies point to acne risk from diets rich in dairy, sugar and refined carbs that spike blood sugar. A new study links the plant-based Mediterranean diet with less acne. One piece of good news, according to the Skin Therapy Letter: “No study has established a positive association between acne and chocolate.” New Tattoo Risk Banning Indoor Tanning More countries are banning indoor tanning, especially for minors. Brazil bans all indoor tanning salons. Other countries restrict people under age 18 from using indoor tanning salons: France, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Austria, Belgium and the United Kingdom. So do some parts of Australia and Canada. In the U.S., more than 30 states restrict indoor tanning for minors. Why interfere with a little teenage fun? Exposing skin to these ultraviolet machines at any age is potent carcinogen, but early exposure is even worse. A new meta-analysis finds that people under the age of 25 who start using indoor tanning salons have double the risk of squamous cell cancer, and 40 percent higher risk of basal cell cancer. Other studies have found an increase melanoma, the deadliest skin cancer. Maybe the new trend will be indoor spray tans? Femme Fatale Got a tattoo? About 1 in 5 Americans do. But if you get one and have a skin irritation that doesn’t go away, see your doctor. It’s not just unsanitary needles you need to worry about, but contamination of the ink itself. There have been infectious outbreaks from contaminated ink in several states in the last year, according to the FDA. The resulting skin irritation won’t go away on its own as part of the “healing process” -- you need antibiotics. It doesn’t take modern science to get perfect skin. Greek researchers took a look at Byzantine Empress Zoe Porphyrogenita (978 – 1050). Her bright white skin looked good into her 60s, apparently. She even had her own lab in her private quarters, where servants concocted cosmetic essences – and maybe more dangerous potions, too. She had many lovers, and her first two husbands died under suspicious circumstances. BOTANICAL FACIALS Restore and rejuvenate your face with these easy natural DIY preparations made from essential oils, fruits, nectar and herbs By Shellie Goldstein, author of Your Best Face Now: Look Younger in 20 Days With the DoIt-Yourself Acupressure Facelift TIME-OUT CURE Apply this to your skin whenever you feel stressed or worn. It relaxes not just your skin but your whole body as well. It is perfect as a night oil or as a spot treatment during the day. you’ll need: 2 ounces almond oil 2 drops jasmine essential oil 2 drops rose essential oil DIRECTIONS: 1. Combine the almond oil and essential oils in a small, clean dark or amber glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. 2. Put a few drops of the blended oil on your hand and rub your hands together gently to warm the oil. Cup your hands over your nose and take 3 deep breaths. 3. Put your hands on your cheeks and sweep downward from your face to the top of your neck outward across your décolleté to your shoulder. 4. Take another deep breath and relax. BOTANICAL FACIALS AVOCADO DELIGHT TREATMENT MASK Avocado is an excellent ingredient for reducing wrinkles and moisturizing dry skin. In this formula, the honey tightens the pores, while safflower oil and spearmint even skin coloring. This mask is intended to be applied to the wrinkles but can be applied as a mask to the full face. WHAT YOU’LL NEED: Flesh of ¼ very ripe avocado 1 teaspoon safflower oil 2 tablespoons crushed spearmint leaves 1 teaspoon honey DIRECTIONS: 1. Combine the ingredients in a blender and blend until creamy, about 30 seconds. 2. Apply to affected areas and leave overnight. In the morning, remove with warm water and continue with your skin care regime. 3. If using as a full face mask, remove after 20 minutes, rinse with warm water, and apply your favorite face cream. BOTANICAL FACIALS SWEET ORANGE WRINKLE MINIMIZER Sweet orange and rose essential oils are known for their effectiveness at reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Almond oil is a light oil that helps essential oils get quickly absorbed into your skin. Coconut oil rehydrates your skin and seals in skin moisture. White flower oil soothes your muscles and relaxes your mind. Use it alone at night. During the day, apply to affected areas and wait until it is absorbed into your skin (about 10 minutes) before applying day cream. WHAT YOU’LL NEED: 2 tablespoons almond oil 2 tablespoons coconut oil (cooking oil) ½ teaspoon white flower oil 8 drops sweet orange essential oil 8 drops rose essential oil 1. Place the almond and coconut oils in a small, clean dark or amber-colored glass bottle. Add the white flower oil and the orange and rose essential oils. 2. Morning and night, massage a few drops into your face after washing it. Copyright Your Best Face Now by Shellie Goldstein, with permission from Avery, 2012 How to Recreate Zoe Saldana’s Look Zoe Saldana’s seductive, smoky eyes and luminous skin were key to her flawless look. Makeup artist Vera Steimberg created it for the actress using Giorgio Armani Beauty products. By iVillage Staff EYES Use the darkest shade in the Eyes to Kill Palette 4 to line top and bottom lids, then apply the lighter shimmer shade below the brow bone. Press Eyes to Kill Intense Eyeshadow in Dark Olive 24 in just the center of lids and smudge Smooth Silk Eye Pencil 4 into upper and lower lash lines. Sweep on several coats of black mascara to finish. SKIN Smooth Fluid Sheer illuminating foundation on face, skipping powder. LIPS Apply Rouge d’Armani Sheer lipstick in Plum-Pink 600. ECO-LUXE BEAUTY Battle dry winter skin with natural products that pledge to protect and serve By iVillage Staff Nature’s Gate Lemon Verbena Cleansing Gel Cecilia Wong Reviving Black Currant Serum Finding the perfect cleanser for oily skin can be tricky. You want it to deep-clean, de-grease and tone, but if it’s too astringent, you run the risk of stripping away skin’s natural moisture barrier and ending up with the dreaded dry skin-and-acne combo. Enter Nature’s Gate’s mild new formula. The cleansing agent is derived from apple juice amino acids, toning is tackled by lemon verbena and witch hazel, and oil-free hydration comes courtesy of aloe vera. What’s not in this cleanser? Parabens, phthalates, sulfates or synthetic scents. Ask Manhattan facialist Cecilia Wong which of her products will help you maintain your post-treatment glow and she’ll say it’s this serum. Containing mega-doses of blackcurrant seed oil— an anti-aging superstar—the serum also incorporates extracts of blueberry and cranberry and as well as argan and carrot seed oils. Get it now: Ceclia Wong Reviving Black Currant Serum, $72 at ceciliawong.com Get it now: Lemon Verbena Cleansing Gel, $9.99 at natures-gate.com Kahina Giving Beauty Antioxidant Mask Deep-cleansing clay masks are one of those rare beauty products you can actually feel working—sometimes a little too much. For a less drying—but equally purifying—mask experience, try Kahina’s version made with silica-rich Moroccan rhassoul clay. As it sucks out pesky impurities, the mask replaces them with nourishing trace elements, argan oil and pomegranate extract. Get it now: Kahina Giving Beauty Antioxidant Mask, $62 at kahina-givingbeauty.com Amorepacific Future Response Age Defense Cream The South Korean skincare brand adds a new moisturizer to its arsenal, which builds on traditional skincare practices with cutting-edge science. A proprietary formula defends skin against aging with green tea and pine mushroom extracts as well as the brand’s signature AB-12 Complex, a blend of 12 Asian botanicals that team up to fight environmental aggressors. Get it now: Amorepacific Future Response Age Defense Cream, $195 at sephora.com Who Needs It? You know you need a cleanser, a moisturizer and a sunscreen. But do you really need a toner? A primer? A neck cream? Find out what’s essential to save time and money. By Stacey Colino For most women, basic skincare products are an absolute must. On the list of essentials are usually a gentle facial cleanser, a moisturizer, and a sunscreen (or a combination moisturizer/ sunscreen). Beyond that, there is a sea of beauty-promising creams, serums, gels and lotions that call to us from pretty packaging.. But do you really need them? The truth is that using more potions isn’t always better for your skin. Most specialty products only make sense for specific skin types. For the rest of us they’re an ineffective investment. WHO NEEDS IT? Hydrating serum Bottom line: Not really necessary The idea behind a hydrating serum is that slathering it onto skin before applying a moisturizer will increase the effectiveness of the moisturizer. The problem is, some serums are water-based while others are oil-based so it’s hard to know which ones might allow the ingredients in a subsequent moisturizer to penetrate optimally, notes Ellen Marmur, M.D., vice chair of cosmetic and dermatologic surgery at the Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City and author of Simple Skin Beauty. “In general, I think a serum is just another layer, another product to purchase, and more time you have to spend on your face,” she says. But if you feel better going for double coverage, always use a water-based serum before an oil-based moisturizer or cream. Once you put on an occlusive moisturizer, you’ll create a barrier on your skin that will prevent other ingredients from sinking in. Toners BOTTOM LINE: SKIP ’EM For many women, the post-cleansing cotton-ball-andtoner routine began in middle school. Back then, we wanted our faces to be squeaky clean and oil-free—and many of us still do. After all, the purpose of a toner is to remove lingering makeup and oil and leave skin feeling fresh and pure. The truth is, “toners really don’t do anything for your skin,” says Lisa Donofrio, M.D., an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale University School of Medicine. “They can feel refreshing because they have astringent properties,” she explains, so many people like to use them after a workout. For most women, though, washing your face will do the trick. Besides, toners don’t have any magical properties—water is usually the main ingredient and many contain alcohol or witch hazel, which can be overly drying to the skin. If you’re looking to a toner to remove lingering makeup residue, Dr. Donofrio recommends using gentle cleansing wipes instead. And those with very oily skin may benefit from applying witch hazel to eliminate the excess shine. WHO NEEDS IT? Eye creams Bottom line: Only for the truly sensitive Because the skin around the eyes is more delicate than on other parts of the face, cosmetic companies have come to the rescue with specially formulated eye creams. Some carry specific claims—to smooth out wrinkles, reduce under-eye puffiness, or brighten dark circles—while others promise to provide this sensitive area with moisture and protection. “Unless your face cream irritates the skin around your eyes, there’s no reason not to use that to moisturize the skin around the eyes,” Dr. Donofrio says. “Often an eye cream contains the same ingredients [as a face cream] in a lower dose or it has a different applicator like a roll-on.” To save money, you can simply apply less of your regular face cream to the eye area or dilute it with a bland moisturizer like Nivea, Dr. Donofrio adds. Topical wrinkle fillers Bottom line: Effective yet temporary Just as you can apply spackling paste to hide cracks in a wall, you can use a topical wrinkle filler to fill in the lines and crevices in your skin, explains Doris Day, M.D., a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at New York University and author of Forget the Facelift. “It’s like the mortar between the bricks.” Many of these products rely on a silicone-based ingredient to do the job; others use humectants (a compound that attracts water), or other ingredients to plump up the skin in order to camouflage fine lines and wrinkles. Someone looking to temporarily hide fine lines and wrinkles and make skin appear smoother might benefit from one of these products. Apply moisturizer first, then the topical wrinkle filler, followed by your foundation on top. Just remember: “The benefits are not long-lasting; they disappear when you wash off the product,” Dr. Day says. WHO NEEDS IT? Makeup Primers Bottom line: A good idea for some skin types Designed to coat and smooth your skin before you apply makeup, primers are like “a base coat to even out texture and sometimes even out skin tone—it’s a similar idea to applying a primer when you’re painting a wall,” explains Morgen Schick, a makeup artist in New York City and author of Your Makeover. “In this case, using a primer can make your makeup application easier and keep your makeup on longer.” Who needs it? If the texture of your skin is rough, or if your tinted moisturizer or foundation vanishes into your skin shortly after you apply it, you should try a primer, Schick says. “Always moisturize your skin before you apply a primer. Most primers are made of a silicone compound, which is a sealant, and if your skin is dry when you start out, it won’t attract any moisture from the environment and it will dry out further.” If you’re lucky enough to have silky smooth skin or a flawlessly even-toned complexion that is not dry, you can skip the primer and save your money. Facial masks Bottom line: Completely optional Treating yourself to a moisturizing or detoxifying mask at home can feel luxurious, relaxing, and restorative. It’s a great way to take a time-out from stress and soothe your frazzled nerves and skin. But despite the claims some of these products make, masks are unlikely to produce long-lasting benefits for your skin. “Truthfully, masks are like lip balm for your face—an occlusive film over the surface that provides a nice, temporary fix,” Dr. Marmur says. They’re completely optional for everyone, partly because the moisturizing or anti-inflammatory effects last only as long as the mask is on your face; once it’s rinsed off, the perks end. Also, keep in mind that if you have sensitive skin or rosacea, certain ingredients in masks— like fruit acids or menthol—could cause irritation, Dr. Marmur warns, so always read the label carefully before using a mask. WHO NEEDS IT? Eye-makeup remover Bottom line: Depends on your makeup Whether they come in a liquid, a gel, or on a premoistened pad, eye-makeup removers are designed to dissolve and wipe away every last trace of eye shadow, liner, and mascara from your face. Some formulas contain oil; others don’t. Many contain gentle or soothing botanical ingredients. Most have been tested to make sure they’re not irritating to the eyes or the delicate skin around them. Do you need it? Yes, if you’re using waterproof eye makeup— it’s not likely to wash off when you cleanse your face so you may need to use a specific eye makeup remover, baby oil or petroleum jelly and a tissue to get it off, says Dr. Donofrio. But if your eye makeup is water-based, you can probably just rinse it off when you wash your face—no extra step necessary. Night creams Bottom line: A good idea if you have dry skin When you get right down to it, a night cream is really just a thicker, richer version of a moisturizer. These products may contain oils, lipids, and humectants— and sometimes they include ingredients like peptides (building blocks of proteins) and growth factors (compounds that stimulate skin cell turnover). Unlike day creams, night creams don’t contain SPF. The extra thickness and active ingredients are a plus in the PM because “you lose more water from your skin and the skin goes through a lot of repair at night while you’re sleeping,” explains Dr. Day. If your skin tends to be dry or you frequently wake up in the morning with parched or tight-feeling skin, you’d likely benefit from using a night cream, Dr. Day says. But if you have oily skin, skip these nighttime preparations. And if your skin is normal, applying an ordinary moisturizer to your face before bed is probably sufficient. WHO NEEDS IT? A neck cream Bottom line: A good idea for some women over 40 Described with words like “tightening,” “anti-aging,” and “firming” neck creams typically have a heavier viscosity than facial creams, yet “the ingredient concentrations are often lighter because the skin on the neck is more sensitive,” notes Mary P. Lupo, M.D., a dermatologist in private practice in New Orleans and a clinical professor of dermatology at Tulane University. The skin on the neck also tends to be thinner so it may benefit from a milder, gentler formulation. “Any woman over the age of 40 will begin to see signs of aging on the neck,” Dr. Lupo says, “and neck creams can mitigate the changes.” This is especially true if there’s considerable sun damage—in the way of pigmentation changes or wrinkling—on the neck. “You can skip a neck cream if your face cream is working just fine on your neck,” Dr. Day says. This is the case for many women. Exfoliant Bottom line: Only for some skin types Simply put, the process of exfoliating strips off the top layer of dead skin cells, explains Dr. Marmur. Whether you use a chemical exfoliant that contains an alpha hydroxy acid (like glycolic or lactic acid) or a beta hydroxy acid (like salicylic acid) or a mechanical exfoliant that relies on a gritty, granular substance or a tool to scrub the skin, these products can improve skin tone and unclog pores, making your complexion appear brighter and fresher and feel smoother. It’s important for someone who has acne or rough, dull skin to exfoliate, Dr. Marmur says, but don’t overdo it or you could injure the skin or cause scarring; usually once a week is plenty. For those with dry or sensitive skin, a chemical exfoliant or facial scrub may be too abrasive and irritating. Instead, “a nubby washcloth is a good way to slough off dead skin cells while you wash your face,” Dr. Marmur says. How to Treat and Care for Thinning Hair, Brittle Nails and Other Beauty Disasters 15 natural, easy ways to get gorgeous, shiny hair and strong, beautiful nails By Brenda Kearns TREATING BEAUTY DISASTERS Is your hair coarse and dull? When you wash your hair, water soaks into the delicate hair shafts, making them swell -- and that can cause the surface cuticle to lift up like loose roof tiles, giving hair a coarse, dull look, says nutrition researcher Mary Enig, Ph.D., author of Know Your Fats. Rx: Coconut Oil Once each week, massage two tablespoons of warm coconut oil into slightly damp hair, cover with a shower cap, then shampoo out 30 minutes later. Coconut oil is nature’s number one source of medium-chain fatty acids (MCFA’s) -- a unique group of fats that leave a microscopically-thin protective coating on the surface of hair strands, stopping water from crowding in and causing harm, according to studies at India’s Mumbai University. Another coconut oil perk: Its healthy fats kick-start healing of damaged cuticles, making hair softer, silkier and more break-resistant within two weeks, says Enig. Are you struggling with alopecia? Alopecia areata is a type of hair loss that flares when the immune system gets confused and starts attacking hair follicles. The cause of the condition is still a mystery -- but the result is bald spots that can be tough to cover and even tougher to cure. Rx: Manganese If you’ve been diagnosed with this frustrating condition, consider trying a manganese supplement. European studies suggest that almost 100 percent of people with alopecia are deficient in this mineral -- and when they take supplements, their bald spots often fill in nicely within four months! The studyproven dose: 10 milligrams daily. Reputable brands include Natrol, Bluebonnet and Twinlab. TREATING BEAUTY DISASTERS Locks limp and flat? So you didn’t win the thick-hair lottery. All is not lost! Rx: Fish Eat at least 16 ounces weekly! Fish is rich in omega-3 fats -- healing, anti-inflammatory fatty acids that nourish follicles, helping you produce strong, healthy hair that has body and luster, even if it’s a bit fine, says Barry Sears, Ph.D., author of The Anti-Inflammation Zone. For best results, skip the fish oil supplement and opt for the real deal! According to a Norwegian research team, women who nosh fish have 80 percent more omega-3 fats in their bloodstream than women who simply took the supplement. Do you have male pattern baldness? If you have a receding hairline or a thinning patch on the top of your head, welcome to the world of male pattern baldness. It’s a genetic glitch that makes hair follicles super-sensitive to testosterone – hence being a predominately male misfortune. Rx: Essential Oils Try whipping up this essential oil blend: Mix four teaspoons of grapeseed oil, half a teaspoon of jojoba oil, two drops each of thyme and cedarwood oils and three drops each of lavender and rosemary oils (you’ll find everything you need at your local health food store). In a study published in the journal Archives of Dermatology, when women spent two minutes nightly massaging a few drops of this aromatic blend into their balding patches -- then covered their head with a towel for 10 minutes before showering to give the oils time to absorb -- 44 percent of them had normal hair growth within seven months! The secret: These medicinal oils strengthen and repair hair follicles, helping them produce healthy hair strands, despite testosterone fluxes, say the study authors. TREATING BEAUTY DISASTERS Is your hair gradually thinning all over? According to Cleveland Clinic studies, the first sign of an iron shortfall isn’t fatigue -- it’s gradual, all-over hair thinning. And just correcting an iron shortfall can quickly reverse this beauty disaster, the study authors say. Rx: Iron-Fortified Cereals According to USDA researchers, fortified cereals are great sources of iron. Their top picks: Product 19, All-Bran Complete Wheat Flakes, Total Raisin Bran and Whole Grain Total -- nutrient-rich gems that are packed with at least 20 milligrams of iron in each heaping cup. For best results, pair your cereal with an orange, half a grapefruit, half a cup of berries or some other acidic fruit. According to UCLA researchers, fruit acids latch onto iron and help shuttle it through the digestive tract lining, doubling your ability to absorb this key mineral. Not sure if you’re low in iron? Your doctor can test you. Is your hair disappearing as fast as the pounds? It’s a thrill to step on the scales and realize your diet is actually working. But watching your hair drop out as quickly as the pounds are dropping off can put a real damper on your enthusiasm. Here’s the problem: Your hair is 91 percent protein -- in fact, every single hair cell is jam-packed with the stuff. So if your diet is low in this essential building block, your hair strands will become thinner, more fragile, and they’ll eventually fall right out, say University of Toronto researchers. Rx: Protein Whatever eating plan you choose, make sure you serve up four ounces of protein-rich beef, pork, chicken or vegetarian options such as beans every day. You could see improvements in as little as six weeks. TREATING BEAUTY DISASTERS Are strands falling out in droves -- then growing back like fuzz? If you’ve ever watched helplessly as your hair flowed steadily down the drain -- then struggled with that fuzzy look as tiny new hairs sprouted all over your scalp -- the trouble could be stress. “Normally, 90 percent of your hair is in the growth phase and only 10 percent is resting or actually shedding,” says Jerome Shupak, M.D., professor of dermatology at the NYU Langone Medical Center. “But stress hormone surges can push a lot more hairs into the shedding phase, making you shed up to 300 of them daily instead of the usual 80.” Rx: Yoga Try 15 minutes of yoga twice daily. According to University of Pennsylvania researchers, yoga’s poses and rhythmic breathing help 60 percent of women dampen their production of hair-wrecking stress hormones for 12 hours straight. Try online classes at sites like myyogaonline.com or yogadownload.com. Are your eyebrows thinning too? Try a med check If you’re losing the hair on both your scalp and your eyebrows, that’s a red flag that your thyroid is struggling, say experts at Washington’s Emory University. “People think they’ll be exhausted, gain weight or feel chilly if their thyroid isn’t up to snuff,” says Gary S. Hitzig, M.D., a hair transplant surgeon in Long Island, New York. “Yet one of the earliest signs of thyroid trouble is actually thinning head and eyebrow hair!” Rx: A Doctor! The good news: Get a sluggish thyroid treated, and your locks could start thickening in as little as nine weeks, say researchers at the NYU School of Medicine. TREATING BEAUTY DISASTERS Is Your Hair Brittle and Easily Broken? People often try to prevent hair breakage by washing less often -- but that can make your hair more brittle, says Dr. Hitzig. The reason: Your body produces a steady trickle of testosterone, and when this powerful hormone reaches your scalp, it breaks down to form a waste product called 5DHT. “If 5DHT starts building up on your scalp, it actually sabotages cell division inside follicles, making your hair grow out weak and fragile,” says Dr. Hitzig. Rx: A Good Scrub “Gently washing 5DHT off of your scalp every 24 hours can keep your levels of this troublemaker safely low, helping your hair grow stronger and more breakresistant within two months.” Is Your Scalp Flaky? Those rashy dandruff flare-ups are caused by fungus, say researchers at China’s Jilin University. Rx: Listerine It’s true -- mouthwash can cure dandruff! That’s because thymol (a key ingredient in Listerine) destroys 24 strains of fungi. Thymol even kills the drug-resistant fungi that dandruff shampoos have trouble taming. Just pour 1/4 cup of Listerine onto damp hair, massage thoroughly into your scalp, wait five minutes and then rinse and shampoo as usual. Repeat daily until the flaking disappears. TREATING BEAUTY DISASTERS Do you have weak or brittle fingernails? Is your hair thinning and head spinning? If your hair is patchy and you’re struggling with dizziness or other weird symptoms, try laying off the vitamin A. There’s no question that this nutrient is essential for good health – it, for starters, strengthens your immune system and protects your vision -- but getting more than 20,000 IU (international units) daily can trigger patchy hair loss, plus symptoms like dizziness, blurred vision, ear ringing, nausea, diarrhea, skin rashes and joint pain, say researchers at New York’s Nassau County Medical Center Rx: Check the labels The ideal dose is 10,000 International Units daily, max. Think your intake’s just fine? Double-check your vitamin ingredients just to be sure, suggest UCLA researchers. Turns out many multis and other combination formulas have 10,000 IUs per pill, so your daily dose can really rack up fast. Sulfur is crucial in the development of strong nails and a deficiency can be what’s keeping you from that manicure. Rx: MSM Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is an odorless, tasteless form of sulfur found naturally in many fruits, veggies and meats. And it’s such an important building block of healthy nail tissue that taking 2,000 to 2,500 milligrams daily can help women grow strong, break-resistant nails within two months. MSM is quickly destroyed when food is heated or processed, so pumping up your levels with a supplement is a smart bet if you’re struggling with not-so-sturdy nails right now. Look for MSM in health food stores and nutrition outlets. Bonus: According to studies at Oregon Health and Science University, MSM is also a powerful anti-inflammatory, and can cut joint pain, muscle pain and headache flare-ups by 82 percent in as few as six weeks. TREATING BEAUTY DISASTERS Are you fighting toenail fungus? Nothing wrecks the look of pretty open-toed shoes as quickly as toenail fungus. Rx: Vicks VapoRub You can get prescription bug-killing meds from your physician, but Michigan State researchers say simply applying Vicks VapoRub to infected nails clears up this tough-to-treat condition for 38 percent of people studied. Credit Vicks’ unique blend of three funguskilling ingredients -- eucalyptus, menthol and camphor oils. The study-proven strategy: Quickly rub a tiny dollop into affected nails twice daily for three months. Do you have white spots on your nails? If your nails are covered with tiny white specks, you probably need more zinc. Although doctors aren’t sure yet why, a study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association shows that as zinc levels drop, the number of these tiny “bruises” skyrockets. Rx: Red meat, fish and chicken Take 25 milligrams of zinc daily -- or add three ounces of zinc-rich red meat, fish, poultry or eggs to each meal -- and you’ll quickly boost your tissue stores of this mineral by 35 percent, plus grow new, specklefree nails in just six months, say USDA researchers. Want spot-free nails even quicker? Zinc is best taken at bedtime so take a supplement before you snooze. High doses of stomach acid are needed for proper mineral absorption -- and according to researchers at Houston’s University of Texas, stomach acid production doubles after 10 pm. TREATING BEAUTY DISASTERS Are your nails always peeling? Few things are more frustrating than giving your nails lots of TLC, only to have them peel like blistered skin -- yet up to one in four women regularly battle this annoying nail blight. Rx: Horsetail tea This tea is loaded with silica -- a building block of nail tissue that helps nails grow in stronger and locks in moisture so nails are less likely to peel and flake. According to University of Cincinnati researchers, just pumping up your silica intake can help you grow noticeably stronger, sturdier nails in as little as three months -- and just two cups of horsetail tea daily can do the trick. Popular brands include Alvita and Celebration Herbals. If you find this brew a little bitter, just sweeten with a pinch of sugar or honey. Bonus: According to the FDA, horsetail tea is a proven diuretic -- so it’s also a great option if you often battle bloat or fluid retention. Global Beauty: 10 Skincare Traditions From Around the World From spicy body masks to seaweed soaks, the world’s women turn to nature in their quest for perfect skin and lustrous hair By Katie Alberts GLOBAL BEAUTY The Atlas Mountains: Rhassoul as a Cosmetic Clay Morocco’s most buzzed-about beauty export may be argan oil, but another endemic ingredient has equally impressive benefits. Rhassoul—a brown clay found only beneath the Atlas mountain range—has been used for more than 1,500 years to maintain the supple, blemish-free complexions of local women. Like all clays, it works by drawing out impurities as it dries, but thanks to unusually high levels of silica, calcium and potassium, rhassoul actually replenishes and nourishes the skin after it’s rinsed off. Cultural practice: After mining the clay from local quarries, locals let rhassoul sun-dry before it’s pulverized into a fine powder that will be used as a body cleanser, facial mask and scalp treatment. Many hammams (traditional Moroccan bathhouses) incorporate rhassoul into their treatments. GLOBAL BEAUTY Ireland: Seaweed as a Curative Soak Seaweed may be most associated with Japanese cuisine and culture, but the Irish have a long, deep tradition of soaking in seaweedinfused baths to cure dermatological ailments. For the treatment, seawater is pumped directly from the ocean into large cast iron tubs (chosen for their heat retention), and then piles of locally harvested seaweed are added in. Within a few minutes, the plants release alginic acid, a silky compound of essential oils that nourishes and heals the skin. Cultural practice: In the Edwardian era, dedicated seaweed bathhouses dotted the coastline in County Sligo and County Kerry, with people of all ages using the baths medicinally and recreationally, enjoying a pint or cocktail while they bathed and strolling along the seafront post-soak. After a drop off in popularity, the tradition has recently experienced a resurgence, as psoriasis sufferers rediscover the treatment’s healing benefits. GLOBAL BEAUTY Czech Republic: Nettles as a Hair Volumizer Due to the plant’s high levels of formic acid, touching a stinging nettle in the wild will make your skin burn. But once the leaves are dried and boiled, nettles become an effective—and perfectly safe—treatment for oily hair. Modern Czech women, who likely remember their grandmothers making homemade foraged nettle hair rinses, now rely on store-bought nettle-based shampoo to keep their tresses grease-free for as long as 36 hours. Cultural practice: The older generation may still make a home-brewed nettle rinse by boiling chopped leaves in water, while younger devotees pick up astringent nettle hair care products at the supermarket. GLOBAL BEAUTY Photo: amazon.com Polynesia: Tamanu Oil as a WouNd Healer The island nations of Fiji, Samoa, Tahiti and Vanuatu revere the oil of the tamanu nut, found in the region’s ati trees, for its ability to promote the formation of new skin tissue and heal wounds, scars and burns (the oil was even used in the 1920’s to treat leprosy and wounds.) Scientists aren’t sure how the oil works, but research is underway to unlock its unique chemical qualities. Cultural practice: Tamanu kernels require several weeks of drying to release their oil, which is thick and fast-absorbing. The end product is applied topically to Polynesians and Melanesians of all ages, including infants, and relied upon by Tahiti’s tough-as-nails athletes, who compete in the country’s traditional outrigger races and Ironman-style contests. GLOBAL BEAUTY Bali: Boreh as a Rejuvenating Body Treatment Often a postscript to an intense Balinese massage, boreh is a healing paste made from various combinations of herbs, roots, spices and tree barks (cardamom, cinnamon, chilies, shredded coconut, ginger and galangal usually make an appearance, but specific recipes are often kept secret.) The ingredients are ground in a mortar and pestle, then smeared all over the body and allowed to dry. Cultural practice: Boreh is intended as a warming, circulation-enhancing treatment, with the added benefit of softened, toned skin. Traditional occasions for boreh include weddings and seasonal shifts, but young Balinese (and tourists) may partake at local spas whenever the mood strikes. clarabella.us GLOBAL BEAUTY South Africa: Rooibos Tea as a Skin Tonic In South African traditional medicine, a daily cup of rooibos—a low-tannin, caffeine-free red tea indigenous to the country’s small Cedarberg mountain region—is said to keep eczema, psoriasis and rashes at bay. And Western science has lent its support to the practice, showing in recent studies that aspalathin, a flavanoid unique to the tea, helps protect cells from inflammation and age-related skin damage. Cultural practice: South Africans have brewed rooibos for generations, enjoying both the vibrant red version we’re familiar with in the U.S., as well as a younger, green rooibos. Locals also use soaps and lotions infused with the tea and, for severe skin conditions, hospitals offer rooibos baths as a topical treatment. GLOBAL BEAUTY Nile River Delta: Black Seed Oil as a Hair Thickener The Pharoahs relied on black seed oil, derived from a variety of cumin seed, to thicken and condition their famously lustrous hair, and thousands of years later, people living near the Nile massage the oil into their scalps for the same effect. Some even credit the treatment with preventing premature graying, which is rare in Egypt. Cultural practice: The seeds are milled into unrefined, highly fragrant oil that is applied directly to the scalp. (City-dwellers often buy the oil in easy-to-used capsules that can be mixed into shampoo.) Photo: amazon.com GLOBAL BEAUTY Brazil: Carrot Juice as a Tan Enhancer Perfecting a deep, long-lasting tan is practically an art form in Brazil’s beach communities. And while gradual sun exposure and safer self-tanning agents are both employed in the pursuit, many locals attempt to enhance their glow from the inside out by drinking pigment-packed carrot and beet juice. Cultural practice: Fresh juice stands are often situated near the praia (beach), enabling simultaneous sipping and sun worshiping. GLOBAL BEAUTY West Africa: Shea Butter as a Moisturizer and Sunblock Found in ancient tombs, lauded in historical documents and fought over during colonial wars, shea butter has been vital to the economies and cultures of Senegal, Mali and Togo for centuries. A pale yellow fat extracted from the walnut-sized nut of the shea tree, the salve is known for its “meltability”—the fact that it liquefies upon contact with the skin and absorbs quickly, leaving no greasy residue behind. Cultural practice: Shea butter is truly an all-purpose salve, used on its own as a lip balm, hair conditioner, medicinal ointment and natural sunblock, and blended into soaps and cleansers. GLOBAL BEAUTY Indonesia: Tamarind as a Natural Skin Peel Beloved by Southeast Asian cooks for its unique sweet-sour taste, the tamarind fruit is also a traditional Indonesian beauty treatment for scars and age spots. Packed with enzymes, fruit acids and vitamin C, the pulp works as a gentle skin peel, much like papaya and pineapples, exfoliating the top layer of the skin. Cultural practice: The fresh pulp of the pod-like fruit is either massaged directly to the skin (no pureeing needed) and left on for a few minutes, or mixed with water or honey and used as a mask. 7 Ways to Pamper Dry Skin Soothe itching, flakes and more By Laura Flynn McCarthy 1. Bathe with a Super Fat Soap A long, hot bath may sound relaxing, but sitting in a bathtub can leave a dry, soapy film on the skin, and hot water can strip skin of moisture. Instead, take short showers using warm water, and wash with superfatted soaps (which are more skin-friendly than regular soaps) or moisturizing shower gels. Within three minutes of stepping out of the shower, while your skin is still damp, apply moisturizer to your body and allow it to soak in before dressing. Pampering tip: Use hydrating moisturizers that contain petrolatum (also known as petroleum jelly) and shea butter to enhance the barrier function of the skin. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, dimethicone and glycerin can help draw water to the skin and hold it there. 7 Ways to Pamper Dry Skin 2. Soothe Your Scalp Do you suffer from a dry and stinging scalp? Control flaking by using dandruff shampoo, followed by a conditioner. Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, M.D., an American Academy of Dermatology spokesperson and dermatologist in private practice in Danville, CA, says to steer clear of two-inone products, which contain a shampoo and conditioner all in one, or if you use such a product, still follow up with a standalone conditioner since your hair needs more conditioning if you have dry skin. Pampering tip: “For a more intense treatment, try a leave-in conditioner which can moisturize both your scalp and hair, or apply baby oil to your scalp at night, cover with a shower cap and go to sleep. Wash it out in the morning,” says BadreshiaBansal. 3. The Eyes Have It The thinnest skin on your body is above your eyes, which means they’re often first to become red and swollen when skin becomes dry and irritated. They’re tricky to treat because products that are safe for skin in other areas may not be safe in the eye area. Pampering tip: Look for products that are fragrance-free, hypoallergenic and/or made for sensitive skin. “A good rule-of-thumb is to look for products that contain less than 10 ingredients,” says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. “Rather than soap, opt for cleansing creams or lotions formulated to be safe in the eye area, or remove eye makeup with a cotton ball and a little bit of baby oil. Apply petroleum jelly at bedtime to keep eyelids moist.” 7 Ways to Pamper Dry Skin 4. Don’t Leave Your Lips Out to Dry Despite their rosy color, lips have much less natural pigment (or melanin) in them than other skin. The reduced protection from sun can lead to chapping, dryness and may ultimately raise your risks for suninduced cancer on your lips. Frequently wetting your lips and then exposing them to air and wind can dry them out, too. Pampering tip: Use a moisturizing lip balm or lipstick that contains an SPF 15 or higher, and reapply it at least every two hours. 5. Helping Hands Washing your hands frequently can prevent the spread of germs, but it also can strip them of natural oils. Make sure you wash your hands with moisturizing soaps, and apply hand cream after each cleansing. Wear waterproof gloves when cleaning dishes or other times when hands are in water for extended periods. Pampering tip: For a more intense treatment, rub your hands with petroleum jelly or a thick hand cream, cover with cotton socks or gloves, and let them soften while you sleep at night. 7 Ways to Pamper Dry Skin 6. Be Kind to Elbows and Knees 7. Best Feet Forward Elbows and knees can take on a darkened appearance in some people, and can become cracked and irritated easily due to bending and movement. Skin is thickest on the bottom of your feet and can become cracked and dry as it builds up. Remove dead skin by soaking feet in warm water for five minutes and rubbing with a pumice stone, foot file or grainy foot scrub. Then massage your feet using a moisturizer that contains a hydrating ingredient such as urea, petrolatum or lactic acid. Pampering tip: Remove dead, dry skin by using an exfoliating body scrub on a face cloth and gently rubbing the area. Follow up by massaging in an ointment or cream that contains petrolatum, urea or other emollient. Pampering tip: Before you slip into bed, cover your moisturized feet with cotton socks or plastic wrap to lock in moisture. You’ll wake up with soft feet in the morning. THE WORKOUT GLOW Whether it’s Zumba, CrossFit or a simple walk around the block, a workout will reap benefits for your skin By Jennifer Abbasi “ I don’t think there’s anything you can do for your skin that’s better than exercise,” says Debra Jaliman, M.D., a dermatologist in Manhattan and author of Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist. Exercise improves the appearance of skin by increasing blood circulation, decreasing stress and inflammation, and contouring muscles. It’s beauty from the inside out. And it’s anything but skin deep. Here’s a guide to ways workouts can help you love the skin you’re in. THE WORKOUT GLOW Get Cheeky Ever notice that your face looks super healthy right after a workout, even if your hair’s a mess? That’s because physical activity increases the blood flow to your skin, giving you that attractive rosy appearance. It’s a truly natural blush, no makeup required. Sure, that sexy, postworkout flush is short-lived, but at least you look good leaving the gym, right? Pump It Up Alas, you can’t spot-reduce cellulite, but improving your muscle tone with exercise will help your skin look smoother. “If you think about it, what supports your skin?” Jaliman asks. “You have the bones, the muscles, the subcutaneous fat -- and the skin lying on top of it. If you have good structural support, your skin always looks better.” The best workout for your skin? Jaliman suggests a combo of cardio and weight lifting. If you’re concerned about your muscles getting too big, do more reps with lighter weights, she advises. THE WORKOUT GLOW Heal Thyself Lose the Zits Working out may help you keep pimples in check by reducing stress, suggests Jaliman. Contrary to popular belief, stress doesn’t cause acne—scientists still don’t know exactly what does—but it certainly makes people who are prone to it get more pimples. Although there’s no direct evidence that exercises reduces acne, workouts reduce the levels of cortisol and other stress hormones in the body. These hormones may increase oil production in the skin, priming us for pimples. To keep exercise from making your acne worse, skip the makeup during your workouts and be sure to shower after—both makeup and sweat can clog pores. The increased blood flow to your skin during exercise helps to soothe wounds. How? “Blood brings nutrients and oxygen that heal skin,” explains Jaliman. There may be a mind-body benefit, too, since stress slows our skin’s recovery time. Women going through a divorce had slower-healing skin in one study conducted by researchers at Estée Lauder, for example, and the same effect was seen in another experiment on stressed-out medical, dental and pharmacy students during final exams. So beating your blues with an energizing hike or dance class may help you heal faster from a cut or after surgery. Of course, this doesn’t mean you should push yourself to work out too soon after a procedure—get the green light to exercise from your doctor first. THE WORKOUT GLOW Prevent Psoriasis Vigorous exercise significantly reduced the risk of developing psoriasis, a skin condition that affects 7.5 million Americans, found a study of more than 80,000 women published earlier this year in the Archives of Dermatology. The disease, which shows up as irritated, red, flaky patches of skin, is an immune system disorder related to inflammation. “Our hypothesis is that exercise reduces inflammation, which reduces the risk of psoriasis development,” says Abrar Qureshi, M.D., one of the study’s researchers and vice chair of dermatology at Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston. What’s vigorous exercise? In this case, running 105 minutes a week (about 20 minutes five days a week), or swimming or playing tennis for 180 minutes a week. Excess weight also seems to make psoriasis symptoms worse, so if you already have the condition, keep your weight in check with regular workouts to help reduce flareups, says Sandra Johnson, M.D., a dermatologist in Fort Smith, Arizona and an American Academy of Dermatology spokesperson. Be Less Vein Varicose veins: Anyone who has ’em hates ’em, but working out actually helps, Johnson says. That’s because these swollen, twisted and sometimes painful leg veins are filled with pooled blood, and exercise gets it moving. Simply walking, which improves blood circulation in the legs, can help keep new varicose veins from forming, and reduce some of the pain from the ones you’ve got. Take a walk around the block once a day or use the stairs instead of riding the elevator. You can also try lying on your back and pedaling your legs in the air. Ask your dermatologist about other exercises, like leg lifts and knee bends, that can keep varicose veins in check. Whether your skin is as clear as the morning dew, or you have a skin condition that bothers you, a healthy exercise routine is the best thing you can do for your epidermis. To get the most benefits, shower after your workout to wash away pore-clogging sweat, wear breathable, cotton clothing if you’re prone to skin conditions like eczema, and slather on the sunscreen when your fitness routine takes you outside. 8 Ways to Exercise Comfortably When You Have Psoriasis No-sweat tips for staying cool and confident, indoors and out By Laura Flynn McCarthy Having psoriasis doesn’t mean you can’t work out, but to exercise comfortably you may need to do a little planning before you hit the gym or the running trail. “Two big challenges tend to arise for people with psoriasis when they exercise,” says Patty Colman, a member of the Los Angeles Walk to Cure committee for the National Psoriasis Foundation who rarely misses a workout, even when her psoriasis is flaring. “One is that the increased circulation to the skin can make it look especially red and attentiondrawing. The other challenge is that your skin can start to feel really hot.” But don’t let these minor drawbacks stop you from exercising. The benefits far outweigh them! Here, Colman’s tips for staying comfortable with psoriasis while you stay in shape: 8 Ways to Exercise Comfortably Keep covered and cool Look for loose-fitting workout clothes in thin, lightweight fabrics to help prevent you from overheating. Colman’s favorite T-shirts are 93 percent cotton and 7 percent spandex. She buys them one size larger than her usual size so that the sleeves are long and the shirt is comfortable. As for bottoms, “Yoga pants or sweats are perfect,” says Colman. Bottoms up! Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated and keep your skin supple and soft. Have a spritzer Bring along a spray bottle filled with water and mist your skin if you start feeling hot. “When the psoriasis on my arms is flaring, my skin can feel very tight,” says Colman. “Spritzing it with water relieves that feeling.” 8 Ways to Exercise Comfortably Camouflage outbreaks Consider wearing body makeup if you’re self-conscious about exposing your skin while you work out. Colman applies Dermablend base makeup to her psoriasis when her skin is flaring. Be sun wise If you’re exercising outside, wear sunscreen, but talk to your doctor about how and when to apply it. Some physicians suggest exposing skin to sunlight for a few minutes before putting on sunscreen in order to get some of the healing benefits of ultraviolet rays— but you never want to get a sunburn, which could lead to a flare. 8 Ways to Exercise Comfortably Don’t overdo it Too much exercise can stress the immune system— not a good idea when you have an immune system disorder such as psorasis. Moderate activities such as brisk walking, stationary cycling or swimming for 30 to 60 minutes three or more times a week are usually safe and doable for most people. Mix it up Choose activities to accommodate your breakouts. If you usually enjoy yoga, for example, but certain postures put too much pressure on your skin when it’s flaring, ask your instructor for alternative moves, or try something that won’t put pressure on your skin, such as swimming or jogging (if your feet aren’t affected). Seal in moisture After your workout, shower and apply body lotion or cream to your skin while it’s still damp. This will both soothe your skin and lock in moisture to keep it hydrated. Ask your dermatologist to recommend a good product for your skin. DIY BEAUTYIFY VIDEO Watch and learn in this video as celebrity makeup artist and host of DIY Beautify Andrew Sotomayor demonstrates how to slim your face and enhance bone structure with highlights and contouring. ” ” The Science of Sexy Skin Psychologists explain why smooth skin and a blushing complexion are so attractive By Jennifer Abbasi What makes skin sexy? Before a date, we shave our legs, slather on the lotion and redden our cheeks with blush. Why do we go through these time-consuming skin rituals to attractive would-be partners? Evolution, my dear. A preference for soft smooth skin and rosy cheeks, it turns out, is rooted in our evolutionary history. “The condition of somebody’s skin is a good index of age and health,” says Gordon Gallup, Ph.D., an evolutionary psychologist at the State University of New York in Albany. Smooth, clear skin that’s free of wrinkles and blemishes telegraphs youth and healthiness, which are clues to fertility. Over the eons of human history, men who chose young, healthy women as partners spread their genes more effectively, and that preference became the norm. It should come as no surprise, then, that if a woman is looking for a partner—whether for a night or a lifetime—she may want to emphasize the smoothness of her body, by plucking, shaving, waxing, threading, or whatever means necessary. Smooth skin also increases skin-to-skin contact, which promotes bonding in couples, and perhaps more important from an evolutionary perspective, among mothers and babies. “Infants have famously smooth, soft skin,” Gallup explains. “It’s the prototype of perfect skin, soft and pleasant to touch.” In babies we find this irresistibly loveable. In adults we find it irresistibly sexy. Some of the sex appeal we seek to gain from makeup is likely rooted in fertility. The hormones involved in ovulation cause our skin tone to lighten and blood flow to increase under our skin. So when we’re fertile, we appear slightly pinker. There’s also The condition of somebody’s skin is a good index of age and health the so-called sexual flush, a reddening of the face, neck and chest during arousal that’s common in women. These days, we can apply that alluring pinkness with a brush. Our evolutionary ancestors were less subtle. Our closest relatives, chimps, announce their fertility with red nether regions, causing researchers to refer to female chimps in heat as “pink ladies.” The Science of Sexy Skin men perceive women in red as sexually receptive… explaining the undying appeal of red lipstick. Our association of red with sex may be a cultural expression of this phenomenon. “The societal uses of red were probably derived from this natural propensity to display red when sexually interested or fertile,” explains Adam Padza, a psychologist who studies color at the University of Rochester. Blushing may also be more prevalent in women during ovulation, which could have predisposed men to find rosy cheeks—and the color red in general—attractive. “Men may be particularly sensitive to subtle skin color changes on women to detect ovulation,” he says. A study he published earlier this year showed that men perceive women in red as sexually receptive… explaining the undying appeal of red lipstick. So smooth, flushed skin is a turn-on. Now you know why, but that doesn’t mean you need to follow these mating rituals. After all, not every woman feels the need to shave her legs or wear makeup. That choice is the beauty of being human.
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