1/14/13 Brands that hide formaldehyde « Hair Straighteners Published: April 2011 an ewg investigation HOME OUR REPORT PRESS RELEASE FAQs ABOUT EWG DONATE OUR REPORT Executive Summary Salon workers at risk Top Salon Survey Adverse reactions and injuries Brands that hide formaldehyde Policy gaps and unsafe products Best options for straight hair Formaldehyde facts See the brands References FAQs Twitter Updates Follow us on Twitter 135 1255 452 17.6K Brands that hide formaldehyde The chemical name game EWG has investigated 16 companies that make hair-straightening products with high formaldehyde content. All exceed safety limits set by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, an industry safety panel. Which hair straighteners come clean about their formaldehyde content? None, in EWG’s review. 15 of 16 brands admit to little to no formaldehyde. Tests show their products contain substantial amounts. Companies whose claims and tests do not match include Brazilian Blowout, Keratin Express, KeraGreen, Tahe and R&L. The 16th company, Goleshlee, admits on its website that its product contains formaldehyde but omits the toxic chemical from its online ingredient list. Can hair straighteners get away with the claim “formaldehyde free?” Name games Leading hair straighteners, including Brazilian Blowout, claim that formaldehyde mixed with water creates a new chemical, methylene glycol. That is like saying that sweet tea does not contain sugar. In fact, when you purchase straight formaldehyde from a chemical company, you are actually buying a formaldehyde-water mixture. Over time, if exposed to air, the formaldehyde will off-gas, in other words, reverting to a gas, its natural state at room temperature. When its scientists conduct risk assessments, the Environmental Protection Agency calls this formaldehyde/water mixture a “pool of free formaldehyde” (EPA 2010B). The American Chemistry Council says the scientific community widely considers methylene glycol to be “formaldehyde in solution” for the purpose of determining a product’s formaldehyde content (ACC 2010). The Occupational Safety and Health Administration’s formaldehyde regulations cover formaldehyde gas and “its solutions, and materials that release formaldehdye” (OSHA 1992). Some makers of hair straighteners - Brazilian Blowout, Cadiveu, Global Keratin and Marcia Teixeira – make the misleading claim that methylene glycol is not formaldehyde. Altogether, four companies list “methylene glycol” on their websites or worker safety materials. www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/ 1/7 1/14/13 Brands that hide formaldehyde « Hair Straighteners Misleading tests Cadiveu and Brazilian Blowout bolster their low-formaldehyde claims by analyzing only the tiny amounts of formaldehyde gas in their products. They ignore the products’ formaldehyde-water solution, even though some of it is transformed to gas when hair coated with the product is heated by a straightening iron. That explains why Cadiveu reports formaldehyde levels of 0.0002 percent, when Heath Canada found it to contain 7 percent formaldehyde (Cadiveu 2011, Health Canada 2010C). Other names At least two companies disguise formaldehyde with obscure names known only to chemists – and not many of them. For example, Keratin Express says its hair straighteners “contain an aldehyde” (Keratin Expres 2011). Tests show up to 1.2 percent formaldehyde in its products. Bravo Biocare’s product, Organic Thermo Fusion – Brazilian Keratin Treatment, describes formaldehyde as “morbicid acid” (Bravo Biocare 2011). Formaldehyde releasers Some companies use chemicals that are not, strictly speaking, formaldehyde but that break down to formaldehyde and release the chemical into the air when they are heated. Coppola says its hair straightener contains a “bonded aldehyde” that, when heated, decomposes and binds to the hair (Copolla 2010). Hot vapors steaming off heated hair as the chemical coating breaks apart would test positive for formaldehyde. Trichovedic, an Australian company that markets HydroSpa products, sidestepped regulations and reformulated to a formaldehyde-free product that now uses formaldehyde-releasing chemicals after product testing found formaldehyde. Silence IBS Beauty and Spazzola are mum about their use of formaldehyde. EWG researchers found no formaldehyde claims one way or the other, on either company’s website or media reports. The vast majority of products surveyed by EWG – 64 of 95 – have not been tested for formaldehyde. Most companies that manufacture keratin hair straighteners – 43 of 46 – do not disclose they have used this hazardous chemical. Government and indepedent laboratories have detected formaldehyde above industry-recommended safe limits in 28 of 31 products tested. So if you are wondering about a brand that has not been tested, odds are formaldehyde is in that bottle. It is not just customers who are being hoodwinked. Misleading claims help manufacturers and salons avoid OSHA regulations that require employers to list formaldehyde on worker safety materials (technically called material safety data sheets or MSDS) when their employees handle solutions containing more than 0.1 percent formaldehyde. TABLE: 15 of 16 companies claim little to no formaldehyde when tests show their products contain substantial amounts Company Brazilian Blowout Claim Testing Prior to [2/13/2011]: Formaldehyde “CONTAINS NO levels up to FORMALDEHYDE!” As of 11.8% [3/1/2011]: There is no mention of the word formaldehyde on the website or the material safety data sheet that continues to list Methylene Glycol. Reference Oregon OSHA 2010A, Oregon OSHA 2010B, IMB 2010A, IMB 2010B, Fisher 2007, Health Canada 2010B Coppola In addition to the Keratin, our Formaldehyde formula includes Timonacic levels up to acid, a benign antioxidant 2.3% patented in France which is part of an aldehyde group that is used in hair products and acts as an organic ACCC 2010, AFSSAPS 2010, Columbia Analytical Services 2010, FDA FOIA 2010, Health preservative… The difference Canada 2010C, www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/ 2/7 1/14/13 Brands that hide formaldehyde « Hair Straighteners preservative… The difference Canada 2010C, between Brazilian IMB 2010A, straightening companies that IMB 2010B, add free formaldehyde as an Oregon OSHA ingredient and Keratin 2010B, RAPEX Complex’s bonded 2010 aldehydes is that the latter is not harmful. Marcia Methylene glycol, which does Formaldehyde ACCC 2010, Teixeira not appear on the FDA’s levels up to AFSSAPS 2010, official list of prohibited 3.4% Columbia cosmetic ingredients, is the (potentially up to Analytical ingredient in our treatments 5.87%) Services 2010, that will produce a trace level FDA FOIA of formaldehyde vapor when 2010, Health high heat is applied. For that Canada 2010C, reason, we can state that Irish NCA 2010, formaldehyde is not an Oregon OSHA ingredient in our treatments, 2010B, Fisher but, we cannot, and have 2007 never claimed that they are formaldehyde free. Global Since the inception of Global Formaldehyde Columbia Keratin Keratin the company has levels up to Analytical been in full compliance with 4.4% Services 2010, all regulations worldwide and Health Canada never made any false claims. 2010C, IMB In our old formulas Global 2010A, IMB Keratin used Methylene 2010B Glycol (CAS: 463-57-0) in our products. Silkening No formaldehyde, no Formaldehyde Health Canada Technologies unpleasant fumes or odours. level of 2.8% 2010C Just frizz-free, beautiful hair that stays smooth and manageable for months. (Canadian website) IBS Beauty i-Straight (Also known as Formaldehyde Health Canada Love-Straight), is the safest level of 2.3% 2010C and most effective system for straightening the different types, conditions, and textures of light curls to the most stubborn kinky hair type. Cadiveu Before Cadiveu USA entered Formaldehyde Health Canada into its Distribution level of 7% 2010C Agreement with Cadiveu Brazil, we were assured that Cadiveu’s chemists were not relying on formaldehyde in their formulas. To confirm this, we hired an independent lab to test the products thoroughly. The results of this test confirmed that the formula does not contain formaldehyde as a functional ingredient in the hair smoothing process. As a result we felt confident that we were offering a safe product, which is our primary concern. www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/ 3/7 1/14/13 Brands that hide formaldehyde « Hair Straighteners Cadiveu’s panel of experts explains, “Formaldehyde is a gas and therefore cannot be added to a cosmetic as an ingredient. In fact, Formaldehyde has never been a cosmetic ingredient. Most test methods commonly used, are not suitable for measuring Formaldehyde in water-based cosmetic products. Formaldehyde is extremely unlikely in a waterbased cosmetic product to exist beyond 0.005%.” R&L “None of our products contain any fomaldehyde. They are all fomaldehyde FREE.” Tahe Formol Free Brazilan Gloss Formaldehyde level > 0.2% IMB 2010A, IMB 2010B Formaldehyde IMB 2010A, level > 0.2% IMB 2010B Keratin treatment does not Formaldehyde Columbia make use of any harsh level up to 7.3% Analytical chemicals. … At-home kits Services 2010, for keratin treatments are also Oregon OSHA available. The price for at2010B home kits starts from $250. For getting this treatment done, always consult a professional stylist. Knowledge about this treatment in advance can also help you in making a smarter choice. If the treatment is done properly, it will leave even the most rough hair look smooth and very easy to style. Precautions: Whether you get this treatment done at a salon or use an at-home kit, make sure that that keratin product you use contains less than 2% formaldehyde. Keratin express The current Keratin Express Formaldehyde formula contains no known level of 1.2% formaldehyde or formaldehyde donors. To confirm this, we had an independent lab conduct tests to measure any detectable formaldehyde both at room temperature and when heated to 450 degrees for five minutes. The testing confirmed no formaldehyde with the exception of a trace amount (.00017%), Oregon OSHA 2010B www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/ 4/7 1/14/13 Brands that hide formaldehyde « Hair Straighteners attributable to possible residual from other product filling or cleaning on our production line. QOD Unlike formaldehyde-based Formaldehyde Oregon OSHA keratin treatments, QOD’s level up to 3.5% 2010B, FDA Brazilian Keratin products do FOIA 2010 not contain industrially manufactured raw formaldehyde. Instead, we have invested ten years of research in a patented process that mimics the effects of formaldehyde, and is readily accepted by the FDA. Still, we choose not to market our products as “formaldehyde free.” This is usually a disingenuous marketing gimmick, and potentially even harmful. KeraGreen Our exclusive formulation – Formaldehyde Oregon OSHA non toxic, formaldehyde free, level of 1.6% 2010B rich with organic and natural ingredients – sets us apart from all other keratin hair treatments in the market and makes us relevant in a time when Green is in! Simply “No! This is formaldehyde Formaldehyde Columbia Smooth free.” level up to Analytical American 0.93% Services 2010 Culture Hair Goleshlee In the FAQ section of the Formaldehyde AFSSAPS 2010 Goleshlee website it is stated level > 0.6% that the products contain 2% formaldehyde. No information on the keratin product pages and no mention of formaldehyde is given in the product ingredient lists. Spazzola No information about the use Formaldehyde Progressiva of formaldehyde is providied. level > 0.6% AFSSAPS 2010 Who says formaldehyde is in the bottle Many experts debunk hair straightener makers’ claims that the formaldehyde-water solution “methylene glycol” is not formaldehyde: American Chemistry Council The chemical industry trade group’s formaldehyde panel, which represents the “producers, users, and suppliers of formaldehyde and formaldehyde products,” takes the position that “the scientific community widely considers methylene glycol as ‘formaldehyde in solution.’ Thus, both formaldehyde gas and formaldehyde reacted in water determine the formaldehyde content of a product” (ACC 2010). Oregon Occupational Safety and Health Administration This Oregon state agency asserts that “a hyper-technical argument over appropriate chemical nomenclature does not alter the applicable workplace health and safety requirements, nor should it be allowed to disguise the risks” (Oregon OSHA, 2010B). Occupational Safety and Health Administration OSHA’s workplace safety standards for formaldehyde cover “all occupational exposures to formaldehyde, i.e. from formaldehyde gas, its solutions, and materials that release formaldehyde” (OSHA 1992). www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/ 5/7 1/14/13 Brands that hide formaldehyde « Hair Straighteners Environmental Protection Agency In the EPA draft risk assessment for formaldehyde, the agency describes the mechanism by which formaldehyde solutions result in free formaldehyde exposures. It says that in a living organism, free formaldehyde leaves the water solution and binds with serum proteins and cellular components” (EPA 2010B). EPA uses the term “formaldehyde” to cover both free formaldehyde gas and methylene glycol, or formaldehyde solution, on its inventory of chemicals manufactured or imported into the U.S. (EPA 2010A). Academia Dr. Alan Schusterman, a chemistry professor at Reed College, writes, “if I am exposed to methylene glycol, will I be exposed to formaldehyde? The answer to this is unequivocally YES. [The] equilibrium, Formaldehyde + Water = Methylene Glycol, is completely reversible at room temperature and methylene glycol spontaneously decomposes to make formaldehyde + water. I can think of no simpler way to expose a person to formaldehyde than to expose [him] to a methylene glycol solution” (Shusterman 2010). Health agencies The Australian Competition & Consumer Commission, Health Canada, Irish Medicines Board, French Agency for the Safety of Health Products, and agencies in Germany and Cyprus have collectively recalled 22 products (ACCC 2010, AFSSAPS 2010, Health Canada 2010B, Health Canada 2010C, IMB 2010A, IMB 2010B, Irish NCA 2010, RAPEX 2010). Cosmetics industry The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), an industry-funded and self-policing body, originally assessed the safety of formaldehyde in 1984 and re-reviewed its safety in 2003. Its current recommendation is that use should be “limited to 0.2% as free formaldehyde but [kept] to a minimum; and should not be used in products intended to be aerosolized” (CIR 2010A). In 2010 the international nomenclature committee of the Personal Care Products Council added methylene glycol to a list of cosmetic ingredients separate from formaldehyde (PCPC et al. 2010). The panel reached tentative conclusions in its March 2011 meeting. The chemical name “formaldehyde” was replaced with “formaldehyde/methylene glycol.” The CIR also determined that formaldehyde should not be used in products intended to be aerosolized to include products that would produce formaldehyde/methylene glycol vapor or gas under conditions of use. This conclusion would effectively prohibit the use of these ingredients in hair-straightening products at any level (CIR 2011B). Name games: What is methylene glycol? Understanding the chemistry A little background on the chemistry of formaldehyde goes a long way in understanding the fallacy of hair-straighteners’ “formaldehyde-free” boasts. Formaldehyde is a gas at room temperature (NIST, 2008). To make handling easier it is usually mixed with water and sold as a liquid labeled “formalin” or “formaldehyde solution.” A molecule of water reacts with a molecule of formaldehyde to form methylene glycol (also referred to as methanediol, formaldehyde monohydrate, or formaldehyde in water). Very little free formaldehyde remains as a gas in solution, but the reaction is fast and completely reversible. For every molecule of free formaldehyde that remains in the solution, there will be 1,820 molecules of methylene glycol (Dasgupta 1986). If an analyst measures only the gaseous formaldehyde in solution the result will be 1,820 lower than the actual amount of available formaldehyde, because methylene glycol reverts to free formaldehyde almost immediately upon contact with air or skin. When free formaldehyde evaporates from solution or reacts with skin, the remaining methylene glycol solution will release more free formaldehyde gas nearly instantaneously. This process will repeat until the methylene glycol is completely gone. Heat from hair driers and flat irons speeds the reaction. A hairstraightening session will release significant amounts of formaldehyde gas. 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