Canadian Journal on Chemical Engineering & Technology Vol. 3 No. 2, March 2012
Modification of Denim Garment with the Treatment of
Bleaching Powder
Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan1, Md. Ibrahim H. Mondal1, A.B.M. Fakrul Alam1 and Md. Mohsin Hossain1
1
Polymer and Textile Research Lab., Department of Applied Chemistry & Chemical Engineering, University of
Rajshahi, Rajshahi-6205, Bangladesh
Corresponding address: Tel.: +88-0721-751240; Fax: +88-0721-750064; E-mail: [email protected]
is using bleaching powder but to date a few related
literatures has been reported. Many researchers have
investigated bio-bleaches (cellulase enzymes) which are
environmental friendly and successful at improving
flexibility and soft hand feel [4, 5], but their attack is not
only limited to the fabric surfaces, causing unacceptable
weight and strength loss to the fibers [6, 7]. In addition,
required color shade cannot achieve, if enzymes are
used.
Abstract: Modification of cotton denim ready-made
garments by washing was investigated using bleach
treatment. The effects of various concentrations of
bleaching powder (5g/l to 15g/l), temperature (40°C to
60°C) and time (20 min to 40 min ) on the degradation of
indigo-dyed cotton denim garments were evaluated by
means of fabric strength loss, stiffness, GSM, color
fading, elongation at break and moisture absorption.
Fabric surface was also examined by scanning electron
micrograph (SEM). It was found that bleaching powder
had remarkable effect in washing on denim garment
modification. It was also observed that the degradation
of denim ready-made garments with bleach caused a
serious drop in fabric strength, stiffness and color
fading, although fabric weight loss is negligible. The
optimized washing condition for the best value
established as 10 g/l Ca(OCl)Cl and 5 g/l Na2CO3 at
400C and at pH 10.5 for 20 min.
Keywords: Denim
strength, stiffness.
garment,
bleaching,
Bleaching treatment improves the appearance and
enhancing aesthetic properties of cotton garments [8].
Bleach wash is very popular for denim (Jeans) washing.
Without washing, denim garment is uncomfortable to
wear, because denim is produced using very coarser
yarns in both warp and weft. In addition, the warp yarns
are mostly dyed with indigo and sized, as a result, denim
is very stiff fabric and hard [9]. For this it essentially
needs a finishing treatment to make it softer and
comfortable to wear performance. Again indigo dyes are
used for fashion dyeing; in denim, fibers dyed with
indigo are not included in fiber-transfer examinations,
remains surface dyeing [10]. Popularity of denim
garments in the World market has been increasing day by
day. To meet up the rapid change of present demands of
customers, researchers are trying to introduce new
designs and producing fashionable denim garments by
following several washing methods. The most commonly
denim washing methods are bleach wash, acid wash,
enzyme wash, normal wash, stone wash, etc. [11, 12].
Although chlorine is a harsh chemical, harmful to human
health and destructive to cotton; it may cause damage to
cotton due to the decomposition of cellulose in the
aqueous solution of hypochlorite bleach (calcium
hypochlorite). The loss in fabric strength increased more
as duration of washing, temperature and concentration of
bleach increased. Tarhan, et. al found that fabric strength
decreased approximately 40%, especially after
hypochlorite (calcium hypochlorite) bleaching for 60
min [13].
tensile
I. INTRODUCTION
There have been many attempts to use chemical in
denim washing. Bleaching is one of the fundamental
chemical processing steps prior to dyeing textiles which
removes natural colorants in cotton and has the largest
effect on whiteness of cotton gray fabric. The most
common industrial bleaching agent for cotton is
hydrogen peroxide which removes natural color of cotton
and increased whiteness. But hydrogen peroxide is fairly
effective in denim washing, because it is applied under
boiling conditions and increased fiber damage and high
temperature bleaching leads to higher energy
consumption [1, 2]. Sodium chlorite and hypochlorite
have been widely used to bleach cotton in textile
industry, but it has harmful effects on the environment
due to chlorine liberation during bleaching [3].
Bleaching powder has wider applications in our daily life
for both disinfectant and to bleach color. Textile industry
It is believed that if the denim garments are chemically
modified by washing using bleaching powder
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Canadian Journal on Chemical Engineering & Technology Vol. 3 No. 2, March 2012
(Ca(OCl)Cl) in order to decrease the loss of minimum
strength, so that their attack would be restricted only to
the surface of the fabric, then the durability of the
garment will be increased. Therefore, in the present
investigation attempts has been taken to bleach denim
garments to produce new look design with minimum
damage of fiber/fabric and to improve the fabrics wear
performance.
Hydro-extracting and Drying Processes
For hydro-extracting, bleach washed denim trousers
were squeezed to a wet pick-up of 70% at 200 rpm for 34 min in a laboratory scale hydro-extractor machine
(model-WZ 5929, Zanussi, UK), then dried at 75°C for
35-40 min in a steam drier (model-T406 N, Opti-Dry,
UK). Treated denim garments were then evaluated by
characterizing of their physical and mechanical
properties.
II. EXPERIMENTAL
Characterizing the Treated Denim
Materials
Tensile strength and elongation at break of the treated
denim trousers were determined according to ASTM
D5034 [15] (Grab test) with a Horizontal strength tester.
The values for color fading were rated with a Grey scale
for color change according to AATCC test method 61
[16]. Stiffness was measured according to BS 3356 [17]
(bending rigidity) with a Shirley stiffness tester.
Dimensional changes / shrinkage (%) was calculated
from the difference in fabric length before and after
washed denim garment according to AATCC test method
96 [18]. Weight loss (%) in fabric / GSM was calculated
from the difference in fabric weight before and after
washed denim according to ASTM D3776 [19]. Moisture
content and moisture regain (%) was determined from
the difference in total fabric weight and oven dry weight
according to ASTM D1909 [20]. SEM was studied using
a scanning electron microscopy (model-S 3400N,
Hitachi, Japan). Water absorption was measured in fabric
from the differences in rate of uptake according to BS
3449 [21]. Treated all denim trousers were conditioned
in 65% RH and at 20°C for 24 h before testing according
to ASTM D1776 [22].
Twill weave 100% cotton indigo-dyed denim fabrics
were collected from Beximco Textiles Ltd. (Bangladesh)
and used denim garments (trousers) for this experiment.
The yarn count was 9/7 (warp/weft), the fabric weight
per unit area was 381 g/m2, and the warp per inch and
weft per inch was 70/42. The garments were desized
using Hostapur WCTH (a detergent, BASF, Germany)
and Luzyme FR-HP (a desizing agent, BASF, Germany)
with the standard recipe [14]. Then the denim garments
were washed using KCI bleach (a bleaching powder,
(Ca(OCl)Cl), JCJ, India). Washed denim garments were
then neutralized with sodium hyposulfite (Hypo, China).
Methods
Desizing Treatment
Denim trousers were desized according to procedures
generally followed in the textile and garment washing
industry. This pretreatment was conducted in liquor
containing 1.0 g/l Hostapur and 0.6 g/l Luzyme, and the
liquor ratio was 10:1, in a small scale industrial washing
machine (model-NS 2205, Ngai Shing, Hong Kong) for
20 min at 60°C. After desirable time of treatments, the
liquor was dropped out. The garments were then washed
with distilled water at 60°C for 3 min followed a
thorough rinsing in cold water.
III. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Concentration of bleaching powder
In the textile industry, bleaching with hypochlorite uses
pH values of 10.5 or above in the presence of activators
and stabilizing agents [2]. Using commercial KCI
bleaching powder at first, established effective bleaching
conditions that could be transferred to bleaching
processes under milder conditions. In this set of
experiments, commercial KCI bleaching (Ca(OCl)Cl)
powder in presence of soda ash, as common activator,
added to the buffered bleach bath at pH 10.5 to 11.0 to
reduce the fiber decomposition. For bleaching with KCI
bleach (a bleaching powder), the question had to address
how much bleach would be essential to function
effectively, while keeping the process economic. The
influence of the chemical concentration of commercial
Bleach Treatment (Bleaching Powder)
Bleaching with KCI bleach (5g/l to 15g/l) (35%
available chlorine) was applied at temperatures (4060°C) and at pH 10.5 in the liquor ratio of 10:1 for
varying lengths of time (20-40 min). For all washes, 5 g/l
soda ash was used to make the solution alkaline and
stable. Denim garments were bleaching under these
conditions in the washing machine at 30 rpm, followed
by neutralizing in 2 g/l hypo-sulfite for 5 min at 40°C
and rinsing with distilled water.
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Canadian Journal on Chemical Engineering & Technology Vol. 3 No. 2, March 2012
KCI bleach at various levels (5, 7.5, 10, 12.5, and 15 g/l)
was examined, and the results are summarized in Table I.
and fibers were decomposed and broken down quicker
with the frictional action (mechanical forces) of rotating
cylinder of the washing machine. The rate of
decomposition also depends on the conditions used in
washing. Decomposition of cellulose would certainly
affect fabric properties. As a result, fibers or fabrics are
loosened and weakened. The results in Table I disclosed
that increasing the bleach concentration from 5 to 15g/l
has effect seriously on color shade change and strength.
During processing with KCI bleach, the sizes (starch) of
warp yarns were completely removed and due to
frictional action the fibrils of cotton fibers were degraded
and partly detached from the main fiber chain. As a
result bending rigidity was less and stiffness was
decreased. The decrease was more pronounced at higher
bleach concentration up to 10g/l andstiffness decreased
was 24%, after that the decreased rate was constant.
From Table I it can be seen that, the loss in fabric
strength increased as concentration of bleach increased.
KCI bleach at 5g/l caused significant loss in tensile
strength (approx. 4%) and this decrease was higher at
higher bleach concentrations. It was observed that 15 g/l
concentration exhibited the highest loss in of tensile
strength (approx. 16%). KCI bleach decomposed cotton
under the conditions used. KCI bleach first attacked on
surface color of denim, degraded the color slowly. At
the same time fibers are partly decomposed in yarn chain
and penetrated inside fabric. Therefore, the dye bonds on
primary wall (outer layer) were broken by the
decomposition of cotton in aqueous solution of KCI
bleach. As a result, indigo color was faded and garments
become duller. After that it attacked on secondary wall
TABLE I
EFFECT OF CHEMICAL CONCENTRATION OF KCI BLEACH ON THE PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF
DENIM GARMENTS
Conc. of
bleaching
powder
(g/l)
0.0
(Before
wash)
5.0
7.5
10.0
12.5
15.0
Tensile strength
(Kg f)
Shrinkage
(%)
Weight
of fabric
(GSM)
Stiffness
(cm)
Water
absorp
-tion
(%)
Moisture
content
(%)
Moisture
regain
(%)
EPI &
PPI
(ends/in
&
picks/in)
Elongation
at
break
(%)
Color
shade
(Grey
scale)
128
7.50
7.60
70 x42
L=24
W=16
5
136
8.30
8.20
70 x45
140
8.34
8.51
70 x45
141
8.40
8.54
70 x45
141
8.51
8.54
7 0x46
141
8.51
8.54
70x46
Warp
Weft
246
(0)
137
(0)
0
381
(0)
4.35
(0)
236
(-4%)
229
(-7%)
219
(-11%)
134
(-2%)
133
(-3%)
129
(-6%)
L=- 5.0
W= 0
L= - 5.0
W= 0
L= - 6.0
W= +0.5
377
(-1.0%)
372
(-2.37%)
372
(-2.37%)
3.5
(-19%)
3.4
(-22%)
3.3
(-24%)
212
(-14%)
207
(-16%)
127
(-7%)
127
(-7%)
L= -7.0
W= +1.0
L= - 7.0
W= +1.0
371
(-2.62%)
370
(-2.89%)
3.3/
(-24%)
3.3/
(-24%)
L=48
W=22
L=46
W=22
L=44
W=21
L= 42
W=21
L=41
W=21
4/5
4
3
2/3
1/2
A value at 0.0 concentrations represents the denim garments without treatment. Conditions used for bleach washing
treatment: bleaching powder, 5.0-15.0 g/l; soda ash, 5 g/l; temperature, 40°C; time, 20 min; pH, 10.5; M: L ratio, 1:10.
Table I shows that the moisture contents of the bleach
treated samples with various concentrations from 5g/l
to15g/l are within the range of 8.3-8.51%, whereas
untreated sample was 7.5%. Elongation at break of the
treated denim garments with various concentrations is
similar and the range of elongation at break is 41-48%
lengthwise and 21-22% widthwise, whereas untreated
sample was 24% and 16% respectively, this lower
elongation at break are due to the effect of sizing
ingredient. Again, water absorption of treated denim was
141%, whereas untreated denim was 128%.
The data in Table I is clearly reveal that, KCI bleach at
5g/l concentration cause significant decreased the GSM
(fabric weight). During weaving fabrics were subjected
to considerable tensions, particularly in the warp
direction. In subsequent finishing processes such as
calendaring this stretch was increased and temporarily
set in the fabric. The fabric is then in a state of
dimensional instability. When the denim fabric was
thoroughly wetted in bleach washing, it tended to revert
its more stable dimensions which results in the
contraction of the yarns. This effect is usually greater in
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Canadian Journal on Chemical Engineering & Technology Vol. 3 No. 2, March 2012
the warp direction than in the weft direction. This is
known as relaxation shrinkage [23]. Due to relaxation
shrinkage, PPI (picks per inch) was increased, as a result
fabric weight loss is slightly minimized and the loss was
1% at 5g/l concentration and about 3% at 15g/l
concentration.
rating 1 to 2). Interestingly, higher concentrations led to
a slight decrease in elongation. By considering the
properties of treated fabrics, it was seen that 10 g/l
concentration is optimum for denim washing with KCI
bleach, hence strength loss is 11%, color loss is 40%
(Grey scale value 3) and stiffness decreased 24%. To
achieve the denim washing effectively, the concentration
of active KCI bleaching powder has to be 10 g/l in the
bleach bath.
It can also be seen from Table I that fabric strength
decreased approximately 16% in 15 g/l concentration;
color shade decreased approximately 60% (Grey scale
TABLE II
EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE ON THE PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF DENIM GARMENTS
Temp.
(°C)
Tensile strength
(Kg f)
Shrinkage
(%)
Weight
of fabric
(GSM)
Stiffness
(cm)
Water
absorp
-tion
(%)
Moisture
content
(%)
Moisture
regain
(%)
EPI &
PPI
(ends/in
&
picks/in)
Elongation
at
break
(%)
Color
shade
(grey
scale)
128
7.50
7.60
70 x42
L=24
W=16
5
141
8.40
8.54
70 x45
144
8.44
8.56
70 x45
145
8.53
8.57
70 x45
Warp
Weft
246
(0)
137
(0)
0
381
(0)
4.35
(0)
219
(-11%)
209
(-15%)
197
(-20%)
129
(-6%)
129
(-6%)
125
(-9%)
L= - 6.0
W= +0.5
L= - 6.0
W= +0.5
L= - 6.5
W= +0.5
372
(-2.37%)
370
(-2.89%)
368
(-3.5%)
3.3
(-24%)
3.3
(-24%)
3.2
(-26%)
55
180
(-27%)
119
(-13%)
L= - 7.0
W= +0.5
362
(-5%)
3.2
(-26%)
143
8.52
8.55
60
162
(-34%)
115
(-16%)
L= - 7.0
W= +0.5
358
(-6%)
3.4
(-22%)
142
8.46
8.52
0.0
Before
wash
40
45
50
L=44
W=21
L=42
W=21
L=40
W=21
2/3
70 x46
L=37
W=20
1/2
70 x46
L=33
W=20
1/2
3
2
A value at 0.0 concentrations represents the denim garments without bleaching powder treatment. Conditions used for
bleach washing treatment: bleaching powder, 10.0 g/l; soda ash, 5g/l; temperature, 40-60°C; time, 20 min; pH, 10.5; M:
L ratio, 1:10.
strength decreased approximately 34% after KCI
bleaching at 600C (Table II). In the same way, fabric
stiffness fairly decreased 22%. As a result of washing, it
was seen that 400C temperature is optimum for denim
washing with KCI bleach, because color loss is 40%,
strength loss 11% and stiffness loss fairly increased to
24%.
Effect of Temperature in Bleaching
The influence of temperature at various levels from
room temp to 60°C was examined, and the results are
presented in Table II. Table II presents that raising the
bleach washing treatment from 40 to 60°C has an
adverse effect on tensile strength, stiffness and color
fading. With decreased tensile strength, the elongation at
break decreased and at 55 and 60°C, the color shade
decreased remarkably. The effect of temperature on
stiffness and water absorption is clear particularly when
washing was performed between 40 and 50°C, because
degradation and the looseness of surface fibers by
washing temperature. The loss in fabric weight increased
as processing temperatures increased and weight loss is
approximately 6% at 600C. The effect of temperature on
surface roughness was examined and found that
roughness is comparative less particularly when bleach
wash was performed at 40°C (SEM study). Fabric
Effect of Time in Bleaching
Processing time from 20 to 40 min was examined, and
the results are presented in Table III. It can be seen from
table III that the values of fabric properties are
significantly changed than untreated denim. The
comparison indicates that there are marginal differences
in moisture content, moisture regain, shrinkage, GSM,
EPI and PPI. But it affects on fabric strength loss, color
fading, stiffness and elongation at break with the
increases of time up to 40 min. Fabric strength decreased
33
Canadian Journal on Chemical Engineering & Technology Vol. 3 No. 2, March 2012
approximately 27% after KCI bleaching for 40 min,
whereas color shade decreased approximately 60% (Grey
scale rating, 1 to 2) (Table III). In the same way, fabric
stiffness fairly decreased to 19%. The result shows that
TABLE III
EFFECT OF TIME ON THE PHYSICAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF DENIM GARMENTS BY BLEACH WASH
Time
(min)
0.0
Before
wash
20
25
30
35
40
Tensile strength
(Kg f)
Warp
Weft
Shrinkage
(%)
Weight
of fabric
(GSM)
Stiffness
(cm)
Water
absorp
-tion
(%)
Moisture
content
(%)
Moisture
regain
(%)
EPI &
PPI
(ends/in
&
picks/in)
Elongation
at break
(%)
Color
shade
(grey
scale)
128
7.50
7.60
70 x42
L=24
W=16
5
141
8.40
8.54
70x45
142
8.42
8.55
70 x45
141
8.40
8.54
70x45
140
8.39
8.54
69 x46
140
8.39
8.55
69 x46
246
(0)
137
(0)
0
381
(0)
4.35
(0)
219
(-11%)
207
(-16%)
197
(-20%)
185
(-25%)
129
(-6%)
127
(-7%)
127
(-7%)
123
(-10%)
L= - 6.0
W= + 0.5
L= - 6.0
W= +0.5
L= - 6.0
W= + 0.5
L= -6.3
W=+1.0
372
(-2.37%)
372
(-2.37%)
368
(-3.4%)
365
(-4.1%)
3.3
(-24%)
3.3
(-24%)
3.45
(-21%)
3.48
(-20%)
180
(-27%)
123
(-10%)
L= - 6.3
W= +1.0
364
(-4.4%)
3.52
(-19%)
L=44
W=21
L=43
W=21
L=40
W=21
L=38
W=20
L=37
W=20
3
2/3
2
2
1/2
A value at 0.0 concentrations represents the denim garments without bleaching powder treatment. Conditions used for
bleach washing treatment: bleaching powder, 10g/l; soda ash, 5g/l; temperature, 40°C; time, 20-40 min; pH, 10.5; M: L
ratio, 1:10.
20 min processing time is optimum with KCI bleach
where the color loss is 40%, strength loss is 11% and
stiffness loss is 24%.
degraded and ruptured surfaces that are produced with
the aqueous solution of KCI bleach and abrasions were
due to mechanical friction by washing machine in
processing. As observed from the Fig. 2, there are more
cracks on the surface of fibers, so fibers are broken.
Scanning Electron Micrograph
Fig. 1 shows SEM images of untreated cotton denim
garment. It can be seen from the Fig. 1 that the surface of
the single fiber is very smooth and no rupture is visible
in the images, because yarns were coated with sizing
materials. Fig. 2 shows SEM images of bleach treated
cotton denim garment. The figure shows loosened,
IV. CONCLUSIONS
Bleaching powder (calcium chlorohypochlorite) is an
effective bleaching agent for denim washing. SEM
shows more crack and decomposition on the surface, as a
34
Canadian Journal on Chemical Engineering & Technology Vol. 3 No. 2, March 2012
Fig. 1 (a) Scanning electron micrograph of untreated
denim garment.
Fig. 1 (b) Scanning electron micrograph of untreated
denim garment (magnified).
Fig. 2 (a) Scanning electron micrograph of denim
garment after bleach treatment.
Fig. 2 (b) Scanning electron micrograph of denim
garment after bleach treatment (magnified).
reesei cellulases,” Textile Research Journal, 70, pp.
969-973, 2000.
result the processed fibers in denim are loosened and
weaker. To obtain required fabric properties and strong
denim, but good wear performance, the process
parameters need to be controlled. Hence, bleaching
powder can also be used as alternative source of other
chlorine bleaches like hypochlorite in denim washing
industry.
[5]
C. E. Morries, and R. J. Harper, “Comprehensive view
on garment dyeing and finishing,” American Dyestuff
Reporter, 80, pp. 132-136, 1994.
[6]
T. M. Wood, “Fungal cellulases,” Biochemical Society
Transactions, 20, pp. 46-52, 1992.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
[7]
One of the authors research work was supported by the
NSICT Fellowship under the Ministry of Science,
Information and Communication Technology of The
People’s Republic of Bangladesh.
I. Kang, C. Yang, W. Wei and G. C. Lickfield,
“Mechanical strength of durable press finished cotton
fabrics, Part 1: Effects of acid degradation and cross
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[8]
M. N. Amin, M. Begum, M. Shajahan, M. S. Rahman
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[20]
ASTM D 1909, “Table of commercial moisture regains
for textile fibers,” American Society for Testing and
Materials, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, vol. 7(1).
ASTMInternational, West Conshohocken, PA, USA,
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[21]
BS 3449, “Testing the resistance of fabrics to water
absorption (static immersion test),” BSI Publisher,
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Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan, MSc in Textile (Bolton, UK),
BSc in Textile (Dhaka University, Bangladesh) is a PhD
Research Fellow in the Department of Applied Chemistry and
Chemical Engineering, Rajshahi University, Bangladesh, and
has been working as Assistant Professor in the Department of
Apparel Manufacturing Engineering, Faculty of Clothing,
Fashion and Business Studies, Bangladesh Textile University.
His areas of interests are textile fashion designs.
Md. Ibrahim H. Mondal, Dr. Engr (Tokyo, Japan) is a
professor in the Department of Applied Chemistry and
Chemical Engineering, Rajshahi University, Bangladesh. His
research interest includes modification of natural polymer &
textiles, and textiles wet-processing.
36