a - ad the the NAILS encyclopedia encyclopedia A compendium OF nail industry terms FROM a z TO a - ad c a polish remover (except non-acetone types) and used to soak off acrylic nails a la carte adj. offering salon services as standalone services; for example, a salon might charge one price for an acrylic, but charge for broken nails separately, or “a la carte” acrylates n. family of monomers used in light-curing gel products the NAILS encyclopedia ABBIES n. an awards program originally developed by the American Beauty Association (which was merged into the Professional Beauty Association in 2004) to honor the marketing and advertising efforts of professional beauty product manufacturers 2 abrasive n. a material used to roughen, shape, polish, or remove the surface of artificial and natural nails; or one component of a file (the abrasive material is affixed to a core, which is usually affixed to a cushion or center) acrylic n. any of a group of clear, synthetic resins used to make plastics, paints, etc. [see also acrylic nails] [see page 75] acrylic dip powder n. a nail salon service that entails an application of adhesive (usually cyanoacrylate) to the natural nail or to an applied tip, then dipping the still-wet nail into an acrylic powder (polymer); the process is usually repeated two or three times to build up a strong artificial nail, which is then filed or buffed into shape and shined [see page 77] acrylic nails acrylic nails n. nail enhancements (or artificial nails) made by combining a liquid acrylic product ABS plastic n. a co-polymer (monomer) with a powdered (of acrylonitrile-butadieneIn 1934, Maxwell Lappe, a dentist in Chicago, acrylic product (polymer); styrene monomers) from created Nu Nails, an artificial fingernail for nail the two products form a which most artificial nail biters. In the early days of acrylic enhancements (late 1970s), most of what was soft ball that can easily be tips are made available was coming out of dentists’ offices. molded into a nail shape The nails were thick and decidedly fake that adheres very well to accelerator n. a substance looking. Over the years, chemists have the natural nail or a tip; added or applied to an developed new technologies so that today, nail technicians can sculpt acrylic nails that are thin once applied, the acrylic adhesive/coating to promote, and more natural-looking. hardens into a strong speed, or control the artificial nail that can be curing (hardening) process; different from catalysts in that accelerators take filed or buffed to a high shine [see inset this page] part in the chemical reaction activator n. a chemical used to accelerate a accreditation n. recognition by an accrediting reaction or increase chemical activity in organization or agency that a school meets another material certain acceptable standards in its education programs, services, and facilities; regional acute effects n. adverse health effects caused by accreditation usually applies to a school as a sudden or short-term exposure whole; accreditation of specific types of schools, such as trade and technical schools, acute exposure n. single or multiple exposures may also be determined by a national occurring within 24 hours or less organization (NACCAS is an organization that accredits cosmetology schools) add-on services n. services that are added onto service packages to enhance clients’ enjoyment or acetone n. a volatile, fragrant, flammable to increase the profitability of the service; paraffin liquid used chiefly as a solvent, often found in dips and nail art are examples of add-on services ad - an adhesive n. a chemical substance capable of holding together two surfaces; the most common adhesive in the nail industry is cyanoacrylate adipose n. a fatty tissue that is part of the subcutaneous tissue (AEFM) Association of Electric File Manufacturers n. a non-profit organization of professional electric file manufacturers who are dedicated to ensuring that quality education is available for users and potential users of electric files; the organization also advises state boards on curriculum related to safe electric file use and has developed non-product specific training protocols allergen n. a substance capable of producing an exaggerated or adverse reaction such as sneezing, coughing, rash, or irritation in sensitive individuals aloe vera n. any of a variety of plants of the genus aloe, mostly native to southern Africa, bearing fleshy spiny-toothed leaves and red or yellow flowers; used to soothe and moisturize burns and skin irritations [see inset this page] alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) n. acid extracts from natural or synthetic sources that chemically exfoliate the top layer of skin; there are five types: citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid; also known as fruit acids age spots n. also known as liver or brown spots, concentrations of melanin triggered by unprotected exposure to the sun over a long period of time amino acids n. the building blocks of proteins; only about 20 amino acids are used to build the thousands of kinds of proteins needed by living cells agnails n. also known as hangnails, is a common condition in which the cuticle around the nail splits There are more than 240 different species of angular brush n. a nail art brush with an angled head used to create intricate designs, bristles are cut at a 45° angle for control when drawing a slant aloe, growing mainly in the dry regions of air purification n. to Africa, Asia, Europe, and America. Although remove impurities from the aloe vera is a member of the lily family, it is quite air; two common methods cactus-like in its characteristics. The aloe leaf contains more than 75 nutrients and 200 active are High Efficiency Partcompounds, including 20 minerals, 18 amino antibacterial adj. of or iculate Arresting (HEPA) or acids, and 12 vitamins. relating to a substance that electrostatic air filters to clean the air; HEPA units counteracts or kills bacteria effectively remove 99.97% of all pollen, dust, mold spores, dust mites, bacteria, and animal antifungal adj. of or relating to a substance or bird dander that pass though the filter; that inhibits the growth of fungi [see page 79] electrostatic filtration cleans the air with charged plates and saves the cost of anti-inflammatory adj. something that replacement filters but requires that the plates decreases inflammation or swelling be washed antimicrobial adj. of or relating to a airbrush v. spraying liquids, as paint, on a substance that controls the growth or spread surface using an atomizer powered by of microorganisms compressed air; nail artists use the airbrushing technique to design on nails or antioxidant n. a substance, such as vitamin E, vitamin C, or beta carotene, thought to create custom colors protect body cells from the damaging effects of oxidation alkaline adj. having a pH greater than 7 the NAILS encyclopedia aloe vera 3 an - bb antiseptic n. a substance used to destroy bacteria, fungus, and viruses on human skin; antiseptics will not disinfect or sterilize nail care instruments such as nippers and scissors the NAILS encyclopedia apprenticeship n. a training method whereby the trainee learns while working with a professional already licensed in nail care; not all states allow nail technicians to earn their training via an apprenticeship program; some states allow a combination of school training and in-salon training [see page 52 for a guide to the educational requirements of each state and a listing of the states that have apprentice programs] arnica n. extracts from the flowers of this plant are used to heal wounds and soothe irritated skin azulene n. an anti-inflammatory extracted from chamomile and yarrow flowers b bacteria aromatherapy n. the use of aroma, usually with a preparation of fragrant essential oils extracted from herbs, flowers, and fruits, to enhance a feeling of well-being [see page 81] ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) n. an organization that develops standardized test methods and procedures for science and industry While bacteria consist of a single cell, don’t let their seeming simplicity fool you. They are amazingly complex and actually get a bad rap because they can cause human and animal disease. In truth, bacteria play an important role in our global ecosystem. The cycling of nutrients such as carbon, nitrogen, and sulfur is completed by their ceaseless labor. autoclave n. a machine that uses steam pressure to sterilize metal implements autonomic nervous system n. the portion of the nervous system that regulates esential functions such as heartbeat and breathing; functions that occur without conscious involvement 4 ayurveda n. an ancient science of holistic medicine originating in India; a holistic approach to health care that is based on principles of ayurveda and designed to maintain or improve health through the use of dietary modification, massage, yoga, herbal preparations, and other measures AVAs (Artists & Visionaries Awards) n. awards program developed by NAILS Magazine to honor the professional nail industry’s outstanding salons and nail technicians; awards are usually submitted to the magazine in early February and pressented in May backfill n. the technical term for replacing the artificial enhancement’s white tip product during a fill-in procedure; it is usually done with an electric file; involves taking down the surface of the nail so that the smile line can be essentially re-created with pink and white powders [see page 83] bacteria n. a single cell, vegetable-like organism; some bacteria are capable of causing disease Barbicide® n. the trademark applied to a liquid disinfectant product made by King Research, Inc., formulated for hospital-level disinfection of combs, brushes, and manicure implements [see page 85] base n. a substance with a pH value greater than 7.0; bases release hydroxide ions (OH) into water, i.e. baking soda in water base coat n. a colorless substance applied to the natural nail before the application of colored polish; base coat promotes polish adhesion and reduces staining of the natural nails; in nail art, used for a background of entire nail or large areas that will be covered with another color BBSI n. an association of beauty distributors bb - bu and suppliers formed in the early 20th century; was merged into the Professional Beauty Association in 2004 [see Association Directory on page 130 for listing of all associations] Beauty Ball n. an annual charity event, hosted by the Professional Beauty Association and attended by manufacturers, distributors, salon media, salons, and others affiliated with the professional beauty industry; the Beauty Ball host selects a charity to be the recipient of its fundraising beautytech.com (see also nailtech.com) n. one of the original websites devoted to salon professionals; debuted in 1994 and offered a chat room, mailing list, and resources for salon professionals on the web and drilling that is secured in a brace, bitstock, or drill press blending v. in nail art, tying two or more polish or paint colors together, often by overlapping them; used to create a multi-layered effect booth rental n. a business structure that is common in the professional salon industry, booth rental essentially outlines a landlord-tenant arrangement between salon professional and salon owner; a booth renter will typically pay a flat monthly or weekly rent to a salon owner for the ability to work in a fixed salon; a booth renter ordinarily has a contract that outlines what expenses she is responsible for and what the salon owner pays for; an estimated 32% of U.S. nail technicians are booth renters Beau’s Lines n. linear depressions that occur crosswise (transverse) in the fingernail; they can occur after illness, trauma to the nail, and with malnutrition breathing zone n. the twofoot-square area between a nail tech’s mouth and work area; the area wherein dust, vapors, and particles can be inhaled if a nail technician does not wear a mask or otherwise protect herself against exposure and inhalation [see inset this page] benzoyl peroxide (BPO) n. Industry safety experts agree that wearing a mask or protecting yourself against exposure an antibacterial ingredient and inhalation, especially while filing acrylic or commonly used in acne using an electric file, is working smart. While treatments; acts as an acrylic dusts are not particularly hazardous, no antibacterial agent against dusts are good to breathe in large amounts for extended periods. Keep the area around your brittle nails n. also P. acnes, a bacterium that mouth and nose — your breathing zone — clear. referred to as onyaggravates acne; is most choshizia, characterized by effective against inflammatory acne that consists of papules, pustules, brittle, splitting, peeling, or cracking nails; often caused by dehydration, are sometimes linked to and cysts health conditions such as hypothyroidism and beta-hydroxy acid n. acid extracts that menopause, medications, diuretics, or iron and chemically exfoliate the top layer of skin; they vitamin A, C, or B6 deficiencies have the same effect as AHAs, but tend to be less bruised nails n. a condition in which a clot of irritating and come from different sources blood forms under the nail plate; the clot is bindi n. a reusable, adhesive decoration that caused by injury to the nail bed and can vary is used by women and placed on the forehead in color from maroon to black between the eyebrows; originally a traditional ornament used by women (usually in India) to buffer n. a device used for shining or polishing nails; a nail buffer is essentially a differently symbolize that they are married shaped nail file, albeit one with a much bigger bit n. a pointed and threaded tool for boring cushion in the center; buffers have all the same the NAILS encyclopedia breathing zone 5 bu - ch basic components as a nail file: abrasive, adhesive to adhere the abrasive, and a cushion core; the center is usually plastic foam or other cushioned material [see page 87] buffing creams n. a cream or paste that is used with a buffing implement to bring a shine to natural nails; often used in men’s manicures for the matte, healthy-looking shine it can create bunion n. an inflamed swelling of the small sac on the first joint of the big toe, results in a protruding lump and is often caused by prolonged encasement in tight shoes the NAILS encyclopedia bur n. a small bit used in an electric file burnout n. a non-medical condition associated with career fatigue and disinterest in one’s job carcinogen n. a substance capable of causing cancer in humans or other animals carpal tunnel syndrome n. pain, numbness, and muscular weakness in the thumb, index, and middle fingers, caused by compression of a major sensorimotor nerve at the wrist, usually due to inflammation, trauma, or injury caused by repetitive motion; nail technicians are prone to this condition because of the repetitive nature of their work, but it can be prevented or alleviated with proper work habits carpal tunnel syndrome Carpal Tunnel c C curve n. the curvature or arch of a nail as seen when looking at the nail from the tip down cabinet sanitizer n. an airtight cabinet in which implements can be sanitized (may not fulfill many state board requirements for implement disinfection) Carpal Ligament Median Nerve Carpal tunnel syndrome and other repetitive stress disorders can be prevented. The best possible scenario is never to develop symptoms, to work intelligently, and to respect your body’s signals. At the workplace, you can do on-the-job conditioning, perform stretching exercises, take frequent rest breaks, wear splints to keep wrists straight, and use correct posture and wrist position. calcium n. a silver-white bivalent metallic element of the alkaline-earth group; the body’s most abundant mineral, most of which is stored in the bones; calcium aids in nerve and muscle function, building of bones and teeth, and blood-clotting callus n. an acquired superficial, round, and thickened patch of epidermis due to pressure or friction on the hands or feet [see page 89] 6 carbide n. a very hard metal made of carbon and one or more heavy metals; usually used in the manufacture of electric files capillaries n. tiny, thin-walled blood vessels that connect the smaller arteries to the veins; through their walls, the tissues receive nourishment and eliminate waste products cartilage n. a tough elastic substance similar to bone but has no mineral content; there is cartilage in the septum or the ear lobe, for example CAS number n. a registration number for individual chemical compounds based on a system developed by the Chemical Abstract Service (CAS) catalyst n. a substance added to an adhesive or coating to promote, speed, or control the curing (hardening) process; different from accelerators in that catalysts do not take part in the chemical reaction; almost all nail coating systems utilize a catalyst CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) n. federal guidelines that regulate business and industry practices chamois buffer n. a nail buffer made from the soft leather made from the hide of goats, deer, or sheep chemical n. anything that can be seen or touched, except light and electricity, is a chemical; ch - co all substances are either pure chemicals or combinations of pure chemicals; all matter is composed of chemicals, i.e. water, milk, and fingernails are all chemicals chemistry n. the composition, structure, properties, and reactions of a substance CHEMTREC (Chemical Transportation Emergency Response Center) n. a term used on Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS); was establishd in 1971 by the chemical industry to obtain information and assistance for emergency incidents involving chemicals and hazardous materials; maintains a high-end MSDS document storage and retrieval system containing millions of MSDS produced when light is dispersed by a prism colored acrylics n. acrylic powders (polymers) that have been tinted with color; used with regular monomers to create custom color enhancements or “permanent” nail art combustible adj. liquids having a flash point at or greater than 100ºF commission n. a compensation structure favored in the salon industry; a commission is a percentage earned of all revenue from services brought into the salon by an individual (for example, if a nail technician is paid on a 50% commission basis and she tickets services in the amount of $200, her commission is $100) chlosama n. brown spots on the skin, especially the face and hands; they are also called “liver spots” or “moth patches” chronic effects n. adverse health effects caused by repeated or prolonged exposure occurring over a period of time greater than three months chronic exposure n. repeated or prolonged exposure occurring over a period of time greater than three months Nail competition categories vary from show to show, but you will usually find sculptured nails, tip with overlay, and nail art. Other categories include gel nails, salon success, design acrylics, and French twist. For sculptured nails, the nail techs must leave one hand unpolished while polishing the other hand red. Nails are judged in key areas such as smile line, C curve, arch, and polish application. citric acid n. derived from citrus fruits, used as a preservative, pH-balancer, and astringent co-polymer n. a polymer made from two or more different types or monomers; ABS plastic is a co-polymer, for example color analysis n. the practice of determining the most flattering or complementary clothing or cosmetic colors for a person to wear, based on their own skin tone and coloring color spectrum n. the distribution of colors competition n. the practice of nail technicians testing their skills in an organized skill contest; competitions usually allow several hours for “competitors” to create a perfect nail that is judged by a team of judges in key areas (for example, evenness of smile line, smoothness of C curve, naturalness of arch, flawlessness of polish); competitions are generally held at tradeshows [see inset this page] the NAILS encyclopedia competition contact dermatitis n. skin inflammation caused by touching certain substances to the skin Contessa Awards n. an awards program for salon professionals in Canada, honoring technical innovation, style, and photographic representation continuing education n. the practice of pursuing one’s professional education after the required or formal curriculum has been completed; some state boards of cosmetology require nail professionals to take “continuing education units” in order to renew their licensing; these CEUs are usually in the areas of health, safety, or technology 7 co - cu corn n. a local hardening and thickening of epidermis on top of the toe, often caused by toes rubbing against shoes that are too tight corrosive adj. capable of causing rapid and sometimes irreversible damage to human tissue and/or other surfaces (for example, bleach is corrosive) the NAILS encyclopedia cosmetic drugs n. products that are cosmetics, but are also intended to treat or prevent disease, or affect the structure or function of the human body; are also considered drugs and must comply with both drug and cosmetic provisions of the law cosmetics n. articles intended to be applied to the human body for cleaning, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or functions; included in this definition are products such as skin creams, lotions, perfumes, lipsticks, and nail polish crystallization n. an undesirable but preventable formation of tiny crystals in the uncured nail coating, often resulting from unusually cold temperatures or drafts while a nail technician is working with wet acrylic product CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association) n. the national trade association representing manufacturers and distributors of personal care products cuticle cuticle The word “cuticle” is often used when referring to the eponychium — which leads to much confusion. To clarify, true cuticle is dead skin clinging to the nail plate, acting as a plug to keep bacteria from finding its way underneath the living border of skin called the eponychium. While some cuticle is necessary to keep the nail healthy, most of it can be safely removed during a manicure. The eponychium, however, must never be cut. Cosmoprof n. originally a very large international tradeshow held in Bologna, Italy, and serving the professional beauty industry from around the world; now Cosmoprof holds several shows around the world, including a major U.S. show each summer in Las Vegas (called Cosmoprof North America) cure v. the change in physical state by chemical reaction of an adhesive or coating to form a solid substance, accomplished with heat or light and usually a catalyst or accelerator; to dry or harden curing agent n. a substance used to polymerize all adhesives, wraps, no-light gels, acrylics, and UV light gels; all types of systems require a curing agent custom blending n. the practice of combining either different nail polishes, paints, or acrylic powders to create a unique color or unique look for a client Cps or centipoise n. the standard unit of measure for the thickness (viscosity) of liquids; one Cps is equivalent to the viscosity of water customer service n. although it entails any service of customers, this is usually meant to be a higher level of service; in the realm of the nail salon, customer service refers to such actions as how a customer is treated when she arrives in the salon, how quickly and professionally she is serviced, the level of pampering she enjoys in the salon, and whether she is contacted after her salon experience cross-linked polymer n. a polymer with net-like chemical linkages between individual chains; results in improved physical properties, i.e. increased strength and durability cuticle n. layer of colorless skin that is constantly shed from the underside of the proximal nail fold and attaches to the nail surface as it grows out [see inset this page] covalent bond n. a chemical bond formed by the sharing of one or more electrons 8 cross-linkers n. chemicals used to link together two or more polymer chains cu - de cutis n. the deep layer of the skin; also called the “true skin” cyanoacrylate n. an adhesive or coating that hardens quickly in the presence of moisture (the curing agent) and may be hardened faster by using a catalyst or accelerator decontamination n. the elimination of pathogens or other substances from a contaminated implement or surface; there are at least three levels of decontamination, the most effective being sterilization, then disinfection, and the lowest level, sanitization defatting v. dissolving the fat from human tissue, i.e. some solvents are defatting and can cause drying or cracking of the skin d dappen dish n. a glass or plastic container used to hold small amounts of acrylic liquids and powders (separately) during nail procedures dehydrate v. to remove water from the surface of the natural nail in order to promote adhesion of polishes or enhancement products, and to prevent yeast, bacterial, and fungal infections day spa n. The Day Spa Association defines a “true day spa” as having the following characteristics: a dehydrator n. a substance clean, safe, calming, and capable of absorbing water nurturing environment; from the natural nail private treatment rooms for each client receiving a delamination n. the personal service; showering separation of two or more and changing facilities; spa layers because of adhesive robes and shoes for all failure, i.e. the cured acrylic sizes; business licenses; polymer separating from the professional, licensed nail plate, cyanoacrylate estheticians and therapists peeling away from wrap on staff; professional spa fabrics, or the natural nail products for which separating from the nail bed estheticians and therapists According to ISPA, the day spa industry is a have received training in depilatory n. a cream or $11.1 billion industry, and there are 8,700 day spas in the U.S. That number has increased their use; offer several liquid made of calcium, 20% since 2002. In 2001, clients made 105.9 massage types (Swedish, sodium thioglycolate, or million day spa visits. lymph drainage and sulfates used to remove reflexology and as optional: unwanted body hair shiatsu, polarity, sports, deep tissue, and deep muscle); body treatments (one or more on the dermatitis n. an inflammation of the skin menu): body packs and wraps, exfoliation, characterized by redness, rash, swelling, cellulite, body toning/contouring, waxing, cracking, itching, pain, etc. homecare program; face cleansing facial, homecare program; aromatherapy: personalized dermis n. the inner layer of skin for body and/or face desairology n. the practice of arranging the hair deal sheet n. a usually bimonthly sales flyer put or makeup, or caring for the nails of bodies being out by distributors with specials and discounts prepared for burial; requires special certification being offered to salon professionals design acrylics n. another term for colored decal n. a decorative image printed on special acrylics; refers to the powder component paper for transfer to another surface; often used (polymers) of the acrylic system [see also in nail art [see page 91] colored acrylics] the NAILS encyclopedia day spa 9 the NAILS encyclopedia de - dr 10 destination spa n. the original type of spa, which involved overnight or extended stay, comprehensive therapies, including water therapy, weight or nutrition counseling, wellness programs, exercise and recuperation; popular in Europe and now becoming more popular in the U.S.; not to be confused with resort spa, which is a luxury spa associated with a hotel or resort, but which doesn’t necessarily offer the same treatment or therapies be cleaned to the degree defined by “disinfection” [see page 93] detailer brush n. a pointed brush used for intricate nail art, especially suited for painting flowers disinfection n. the second (or middle) level of decontamination; controls microorganisms on non-living surfaces (the other methods being sanitization at the lowest and sterilization at the highest) diamond bit n. an abrasive tool that consists of a steel shank with a diamond abrasive as the grinding material on the head; normally used with an electric file; used to shape and prep artificial enhancements dihydroxyacetone (DHA) n. the active ingredient in self-tanners disinfectant n. a substance or procedure used to control microorganisms on non-living surfaces, such as instruments, implements, and environmental surfaces; all disinfectants must be approved by and registered with the federal EPA and in each individual state; disinfectants are not for use on human skin or nails [see page 95] double load disposable adj. designed to be disposed of after use distal nail plate n. a nail’s free edge double loaded double loaded (blended) distributor n. a company that is in the business of marketing or selling merchandise diversion n. the practice of reselling (or “diverting”) When double loading (a nail art technique), products intended for sale make sure both colors of paint are the same to salon professionals only creamy consistency. Use the right amount of discolored nail n. a to other outlets, such as moisture in your brush — too much water will cause a flood on your brush and in your work, condition in which the nail open-to-the-public beauty too little will prevent the colors from blending turns a variety of colors distributors, grocery stores, nicely in the middle. including yellow, blue-gray, or drugstores; the practice green, red, and purple; is rampant in the prodiscoloration can be caused by poor blood fessional beauty industry and is a threat to the circulation, a heart condition, or topical or oral retailing potential of professional salons medications, and can be indicative of any number of disorders double load v. in nail art, to load two separate colors on a brush to create a multidimensional discount salons n. originally defined by NAILS look; the goal is usually to have a nice blend of the Magazine as a nail salon whose service prices are two colors where they meet [see inset this page] less than one-half the national average service prices; it does not refer to any other business or drill n. another term for electric file; most nail service aspect except for pricing professionals (and clients) prefer the term “electric file” as that is more succinctly how the disinfectable™ adj. the ability of a non-living tool should be used surface (such as an implement) to be disinfected, or cleaned of microorganisms; all hard metal dryer n. sometimes used incorrectly to implements in the salon, which means they can describe spray catalyst for wrap adhesives dip powder n. [see acrylic dip powder] ds - ed (cyanoacrylates); these products do not “dry”; rather they harden by a chemical reaction called polymerization DSC (distributor’s sales consultant) n. a salesperson who works for a full-service distributor and calls on salons in person for the purpose of order-taking, new product announcements, and customer service duck nails n. nail enhancement style, made of either gel or acrylic, that fan out dramatically at the free edge (like a duck’s foot) electric file n. the preferred term for a nail drill; a tool used by nail technicians to speed up, streamline, or make easier some nail services; the electric file allows nail technicians to file or finish areas of the nail that are hard to reach (for example, under the free edge of a newly created sculpted nail) [see also drill] [see page 101] electrolysis n. the only permanent form of hair removal; the process in which electric current is used to kill hair at its root embedded acrylic embedded acrylic n. the practice of encasing something decorative, like a flower or a rhinestone, between layers of acrylic; usually the item is set into not-yet-cured acrylic, allowed to dry, then capped with a clear layer of acrylic that can be buffed to a seethrough shine [see inset this page] e ear coning n. a technique that originated in ancient times and now employed by salon professionals and involves putting a hollow candle that tapers at one end and fits into the ear; the opposite end is lighted, creating a vacuum that cleanses residues out of the ear; also called ear candling The possibilities are endless for what a nail technician can “embed” in acrylic nails. Dried flowers, fabric, feathers, rhinestones, and colored acrylic designs can all be capped with a clear layer of acrylic to create an interesting looking 3-D nail. ear piercing v. creating a hole in the earlobe into which an earring is affixed; the process is a relatively painless cosmetic procedure favored by men and women alike eczema n. an inflammatory condition of the skin characterized by redness, itching, and oozing vesicular lesions which become scaly, crusted, or hardened edema n. a swelling of the tissues due to a localized accumulation of water or fluid effervescent adj. bubbly, sparkling gas, usually due to gas in water [see page 99] emery board n. a nail file consisting of a strip of cardboard or wood with a coating of powdered emery (an abrasive) the NAILS encyclopedia DuraFlow™ n. a patented formula by Be! Products for nail lacquers that provides durability, self-leveling application, and a fast drying time [see page 97] eggshell nails n. nails that are thin, white, and curved over the free edge; the condition is caused by improper diet, internal disease, medication, or nervous disorders employee/employer n. an employee is a worker who is on payroll, for whom payroll taxes and insurances are paid (among other expenses), and who is subject to certain legal obligations and privileges (in contrast to a booth renter, who is technically a “tenant” of the salon owner) enamel n. any coating that flows to a smooth coat when applied and dries with a glossy appearance; nail polishes that contain higher levels of film formers are considered enamels enhancement n. a term for artificial nails preerred by many nail professionals; can refer to nails of acrylic, gel, wraps, or tips 11 en - fl enzyme n. any of numerous complex proteins that are produced by living cells and caralyze specific biochemical reactions at body temperature; often used as exfoliants and derived from fruits like papaya or pineapple exfoliation n. the removal of dead skin cells from the skin’s surface EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) n. a federal organization responsible for regulating disinfectants and other chemical substances fan brush n. a brush with fanned hairs, used to create an airbrushed effect in nail art EPA registration number n. a number assigned to all disinfectants registered by the EPA f fast dry n. a term for a chemical product that dries polish; can be brush-on, spray-on, or droplet format fast set adj. a type of acrylic that is chemically configured to cure/harden (“set”) faster than traditional systems; fast set systems are favored by some competitors or experienced nail techdistal edge of plate nicians or others who don’t need time to “work” with the product the NAILS encyclopedia epidermis n. also called the cuticle or scarf skin, is the outermost protection covering the skin eponychium n. the thin line of skin at the base of the nail that extends from the nail wall to the nail plate ergonomics n. the applied science of equipment design in order to reduce operator fatigue and discomfort essential oil n. essences extracted from plants that contain the scent and other therapeutic properties of that plant fingernail lateral nail fold nail plate lunula eponychium cuticle proximal nail fold fiber n. a solid particle whose length is at least three times its width The fingernail is a complex unit. Most people’s fingernails take three to six months to completely grow out. esters n. a general term used to refer to the liquid monomers used in acrylic liquid formulation; the product formed when an organic acid reacts with an alcohol; all nail coating polymers, except for polishes, contain esters esthetics n. the practice of skin care; a practitioner of esthetics is known as an esthetician ethyl methacrylate n. a type of acrylic monomer (liquid) that is generally used in most acrylic systems (in contrast with MMA, which has been deemed unsafe for use in nail products) 12 ferrule n. a metal ring or cap placed around a brush’s shaft to reinforce and hold its hairs eucalyptus n. a native Australian tree with aromatic leaves that yield an oil used medicinally fiberglass n. a composite material of glass fibers in resin; used in nail wrap applications to brace natural nails or artificial tips fill or fill-in n. a regular service required to maintain artificial nails [see also backfill] fingernail n. a thin, horny, transparent plate covering the dorsal surface of the tip of each finger; comprised of dead keratin cells [see inset this page] flammable liquids n. generally, those liquids with flash points below 100 degrees F; means the same as inflammable floated color n. in nail art, when a brush is fo - fu loaded with more water than paint to create a soft highlight folloculitis n. an inflammation of the hair follicle that looks like a rash, usually found in areas of the body that have been shaved or waxed foot care n. the practice of caring for feet, from a cosmetic and maintenance standpoint; usually encompasses pedicure services, nail trim, callus removal, massage and moisturizing; can encompass all services related to the feet foot spa n. generally used to describe the pedicure whirlpool units, regardless of size, that a pedicure client soaks in during the pedicure service; tends to apply to units that have whirlpool or jet action, though not necessarily with nail polish, airbrushing, nail art paints, specialty tips, or colored acrylics; there are many variations of this look, but generally a “French” manicure incorporates one color on the nail tip and another, usually contrasting color, on the nail bed [see page 103] French tip n. a tip that fits on the nail and is used to create a French manicure look; is usually white and can be any shape [see inset this page] full-service distributor n. a supplier of professional beauty products; full-service usually refers to the fact that a supplier has the following characteristics: employs insalon sales representatives who service salon professionals and take product orders, often operates a storefront, offers professional and technical education; can also offer mail order or Internet buying for products, consulting services, and design consultation formaldehyde n. a colorless, gaseous compound used in making phelonic resins, dyes, and in aqueous solutions as preservative and disinfectant forms n. what is used to sculpt a nail shape with acrylic; forms are sticky on one side so they adhere to the finger; forms are attached under the natural nail’s free edge and the acrylic system is used to form (sculpt) a nail French tips are a good way to quickly create the French manicure look with either acrylic or gel systems because they serve as tip guides. Most nail technicians follow the French tip application with pink or clear acrylic on the nail bed. (Photo courtesy of OPI.) franchise n. an agreement between a firm and another party in which the firm provides the other party with the right to use the firm’s name and to sell or rent its products; selling franchise rights is a method of expanding a business quickly with a minimum of capital free edge n. the end of the nail that extends beyond the fingertip; also called the distal nail plate French manicure n. a nail style that includes a white tip and a pink nail bed; can be achieved full-service salon n. generally thought to be a salon that offers more than specialized services; usually a salon that offers hair care and at least one other major service area (such as nails, skin care, or tanning) the NAILS encyclopedia French tip fumes n. very small, fine solid particles suspended in the air; they are formed when solid substances are vaporized by very high temperatures; fumes do not occur in the nail industry and are incorrectly confused with vapors fungicide n. an agent capable of destroying fungus fungus n. microscopic plants such as mold, dermatophyte, and yeast; only two members of this family can form colonies in or under the natural nail and under artificial nails; one of these is a yeast called candida albicans and the other is a dematophyte called trichophyton rubrum; if 13 fu - he improperly treated, they may lead to serious medical problems; the technical term for fungus is onychomycosis [see page 105] furrows n. also known as corrugations, long ridges that run either lengthwise or across the nail; some lengthwise ridges are normal in adult nails, and they increase with age; lengthwise ridges can also be caused by conditions such as psoriasis, poor circulation, and frostbite; ridges that run across the nail can be caused by conditions such as high fever, pregnancy, measles in childhood, and a zinc deficiency in the body the NAILS encyclopedia g ganglion cyst n. cystic swellings under the skin, generally in the wrist or the upper surface of the foot; a ganglion develops when a jellylike substance accumulates in one of two places — a joint capsule or a tendon sheath — and causes it to balloon out; usually painless and harmless, they can be surgically treated by draining them with a needle, applying pressure after puncturing it, or surgically removing it gas n. individual molecules of a substance dispensed in air; one of the three states (solid, liquid, and gas) of matter grass comb n. a nail art brush with separated bristles used for detailed dry brush techniques greenies n. the informal term used by many nail technicians to describe a nail that has become infected with pseudomonas; usually occurs as a result of water or other moisture becoming trapped between an artificial nail and the natural nail; treatment does not always require removing the artificial nail grit n. a term used in defining the coarseness or texture of abrasives gel Gel nails first became big business in Europe in the early 1980s, partly due to the fact that European nail technicians were originally trained in gel application. In the U.S., gel nails have gone through a renaissance of sorts, as manufacturers have tweaked, reworked, and refined their formulations. gel n. pre-mixed monomers that are hardened or cured to polymers by either UV or visible light, the exception being “no light” gels, which are thickened cyanoacrylates, high viscosity, or thixotroic liquids [see inset this page] h hammer toe n. a deformed, claw-shaped toe, usually the second toe, that results from permanent angular flexion between one or both phalangeal joints hangnails n. also known as agnails; a common condition in which the skin around the nail splits; hangnails are caused by dry skin or eponychium that has been cut harden v. the solidification of liquid adhesives or coatings into solid substances hazardous ingredient n. any substance that may be capable of causing physical or other health-related injury to an exposed individual, i.e. cuts, burns, falls, rashes, fire, explosion, toxic effects, ingestion or inhalation risk, skin absorption, danger to the eyes, rapid polymerization, harmful decomposition byproducts, acute and chronic health risks, etc. germicide n. a germ-killing agent 14 glue n. through general usage, this term has come to describe, incorrectly, all adhesives, including cyanoacrylates; true glues are proteinbased adhesives obtained from the hides, tendons, cartilage, bones, etc. of animals heat-cured adj. the process of hardening (curing) by heat, rather than by air, UV light, or water hemp seed oil n. a rich emollient that contains fatty acids and is good for dry, aging skin hi - ke HMIS (Hazardous Materials Identification System) n. a rating system for hazardous substances; this system rates flammability, reactivity, and health risks on a 0-4 scale with 4 being the most hazardous; see the product’s MSDS for specific ratings HVAC n. an abbreviation for a system that provides heating, ventilation, and air conditioning impulse buy n. a purchase made at the last minute, usually with little thought (“on impulse”); items placed at the reception desk or in another area where a client might linger are often designed to make a client make a quick purchase independent contractor n. a self-employed worker, who is not subject to the same rules and regulations as an employee, and who has none of the same rights or privileges as an employee; an independent contractor makes her own hours, pays her own taxes, and handles client payment directly (among other factors); the IRS determines whether a worker is an employee or independent contractor hydration n. the addition of water hydrophilic adj. a substance that has an affinity or attraction to water jojoba ingrown hair n. hairs that point in instead of outward and get trapped beneath the skin ingrown nail n. having the free edge embedded in the flesh hydrophobic adj. a substance that completely or partially repels water inorganic adj. a substance that does not contain carbon as a part of its chemical structure hygroscopic adj. a substance that absorbs water vapors from the air, i.e. anhydrous salts Jojoba is a liquid wax that is highly penetrating and has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant qualities. A high iodine concentration (81.7%), gives jojoba oil a great power to heal. It can help heal acne, athlete’s foot, cuts, mouth sores, pimples, and warts. The oil also helps to remove buildup around hair follicles. hypoallergenic adj. a term suggesting that the product contains less or fewer allergy-causing substances (allergens) than other equivalent products on the market; there are no federal guidelines for defining or limiting the use of this term hyponychium n. the part of the skin under the free edge of the nail i IBS (International Beauty Show) n. a tradeshow of long-standing, held in New York, usually in early spring implement n. a tool, utensil, or instrument for doing a task [see page 107] irritant n. a substance capable of causing inflammation of the skin, eyes, nose, throat, or lungs the NAILS encyclopedia highlight n. in nail art, the lightest color used on the painted area; used to show where the light source is and to give an object dimension j jojoba n. an emollient for skin and hair that is obtained from the nut of the jojoba shrub [see inset this page] Juliette wrap n. a technique of wrapping the nails with paper or a paper-like material and sealing with adhesive, which was used by some nail technicians before the advent of acrylics k keratin n. a tough, insoluble protein that is the main constituent of hair and nails, and of the 15 ko - li outermost layer of the skin (gels) with visible or ultraviolet light kolinsky n. any of several Asian minks, the fur is often used for the bristles of a brush light-activated acrylics, UV-cured acrylics n. a liquid-and-powder acrylic system that requires UV light to cure or harden, rather than simple exposure to air l lacquer n. another word for nail polish, used to add color and gloss to the nail the NAILS encyclopedia lactic acid n. alpha-hydroxy acid derived from milk laminate n. a product made by bonding together two or more layers of material(s); v. to unite layers of material with adhesive line work n. in nail art, any kind of lines painted on the area; technique of painting detailed lines, usually in black to give definition to an object liquid-topowder ratio lavender n. the leaves, flowers, and oil from this plant are used in many beauty products for its soothing properties LD50 n. an abbreviation of “lethal dose at 50%” a measure of toxicity; the dosage which kills 50% of the animal test subject used in study; a term used on the MSDS too wet perfect too dry The correct ratio of liquid monomer and acrylic powder (polymer) is vital to produce strong, flexible, durable, and non-lifting enhancements. The wrong liquid-to-powder ratio can result in premature lifting or breakage. Most acrylic systems require a medium-wet bead. (Photo courtesy of NSI.) leuconychia n. complete or partial whitening (spots) of the natural nail plate; usually caused by external physical damage, but other medical conditions may be responsible licensing n. the act of granting permission by a competent authority to engage in a business or occupation; a license is required to do nails in nearly every U.S. state lifting n. separation of the artificial nail coating from the natural nail, usually at or near the cuticle, but also may be seen in other locations; lifting of the natural nail plate (onycholysis) from the nail bed should be referred to a physician 16 liner brush n. a nail art brush with a finely tapered cylindrical head, excellent for short strokes and to draw small lines and details light cure v. curing or hardening monomers lipids n. one of numerous fats and fatlike materials that, together with carbohydrates and proteins, constitute the principle structural material of living cells liquid n. one of the three physical states in which all matter exists: solid, liquid, and gas; a term that typically refers to the monomers used to create acrylic (liquid/power) systems liquid resins n. organic polymer liquids that when converted into their final state for use become a resin; refers to uncross- linked polymers liquid wrap n. a nail polish, base coat, or top coat that contains fibers for reinforcement of the natural nail liquid-to-powder ratio n. the balance of liquid monomer to acrylic powder (polymer); it is important that the manufacturer’s recommended correct ratio be achieved in order for the hardening processes to take place; incorrect or out-of-balance liquid-to-powder ratios can cause a variety of problems with acrylic, including yellowing, bubbling, or crystallization [see inset this page] lo - me mask n. a skin care treatment that helps seal and retain moisture in the skin; can be used as part of a manicure or pedicure as well lunula n. the light-colored half-moon shape at the base of the nail; where the matrix connects with the nail bed massage n. manipulation of the tissues (by rubbing, kneading, or tapping) with the hand or instrument for therapeutic purposes m matrix n. small area of living tissue directly below the proximal nail fold; contains nerves together with lymph and blood vessels that produce nail cells and control the rate of growth of the nail; a very sensitive part of the nail that if injured will produce nails with irregular growth and disorders Madge the Manicurist n. a fictional character made popular by a television commercial in the 1970s for Palmolive dishwashing liquid; the character, played for years by actress Jan Miner, symbolized an old-fashioned notion of nail care professionals; sometimes a derisive term for a manicurist who does not see herself as a true professional colors together in free, uneven patterns in nail art mendhi manicure n. a cosmetic treatment for the hands and fingernails that involves cleaning hands and fingernails, trimming and shaping nails, and usually polishing [see page 109] medical spa [see medispa] medispa n. any facility that presents a merger of medical practice and spa therapeutics mendhi n. a body decoration process that is thousands of years old; a way of creating temporary ink artwork or “tattoos” on the skin; the use of henna is traditional, although synthetic dyes have been brought to market; in this process, the body is painted with henna, which is left on the skin to dry, and as it dries it stains the skin with a natural-looking and long-lasting color [see inset this page] Mehndi is the Hindi word used to describe the art form of painting henna designs on the body. Mehndi is practiced in many parts of the world. Henna powder is usually mixed with coffee or black tea and lemon juice. After sitting for several hours, it is mixed with a pure essential oil. The paste is then applied to clean, dry skin in a pattern using a stencil or freehand. The longer the henna paste is left on, the deeper and darker the design will be on the body. manicurist n. a licensed individual who performs nail services, more often referred to as a “nail technician” today mantle n. also called nail fold; the deep fold of skin at the base of the nail where the nail root is embedded the NAILS encyclopedia local exhaust n. ventilation systems that collect vapors and dust at the source of emission or generation and remove them from the workplace before they can move into breathing air zones; a term found on the MSDS menthol n. the main element in the essential oil of peppermint, used in beauty products for its cooling qualities manufacturer’s educator n. a nail technician who works directly for a product manufacturer, usually as an independent contractor; duties include demonstrating products at shows, conducting classes and educational events, or doing sales programs metatarsals n. of or relating to the part of the human foot marbler brush n. a brush used to mix and blend methacrylates n. a family of monomers used in metacarpals n. the bones of the palm of the hand 17 me - mu several types of nail enhancement systems methyl methacrylate (MMA) n. an acrylic monomer found by the FDA in 1978 to be unsafe for use in nail products because of the serious health risk posed to manicurists by its use methylene chloride n. a solvent banned by the FDA for use in all cosmetic aerosols and nail products because of the serious heath risk; currently listed as a probable human cancercausing agent mica n. any of various colored or transparent mineral silicates crystallizing in monoclinic forms that readily separate into very thin leaves; used in polish to add shimmer mildew n. a superficial, usually whitish growth produced especially on organic matter or living plants by fungi mission statement n. the explication of a salon’s purpose for business; can be simple or elaborate, but it communicates to salon staff and clientele why the business exists mist n. fine liquid particles of various sizes that are produced by spraying mobile salon n. legal in some states, a nail salon that travels to clients’ homes or offices to offer services the NAILS encyclopedia monomer 18 micro buffer n. a type of finishing file with a very high grit (over 800) used to polish or shine acrylic or natural nails moisture n. liquid diffused or condensed in relatively small quantity mold n. a fungus infection of the nail that is usually caused when moisture seeps between an artificial nail and the free edge of the nail; mold starts with a yellow-green color and darkens to black if not treated by a doctor; clients with mold should be referred to a doctor [see also fungus] microdermabrasion n. a skin-freshening technique that helps repair skin; involves a device likened to a fine sandblaster that Monomer, the liquid component of traditional sprays tiny crystals across liquid and powder acrylic systems, can come monomer n. an individual, the face, mixing gentle in different colors. Blue tinted liquids give the white powder extra brightness; pinks help reactive chemical unit that abrasion with suction to create a natural looking nail bed color. may be linked to one remove the dead, outer another to form a polymer; layer of skin; “personal the liquid component in microdermabrasion” utilizes a more gentle device that works with acrylic systems vibration and a cream-based crystal solution; has been incorporated into hand and foot care MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) n. forms services by many nail technicians to provide a that provide safety guidelines for use of service to clients concerned about aging skin professional products; MSDS are required by state and federal law to be distributed by all on the hands manufacturers and distributors under the OSHA microorganism n. a living microscopic system, Hazard Communication Standard 29 CFR 1910.1200; nail technicians should have MSDS i.e. bacteria, virus, fungus, and protozoa for each product they use in the salon, filed and Midwest Beauty Show n. one of the largest and easily accessed longest-running shows in the professional beauty industry; usually held in the late winter in mutagen n. a substance that can chemically or Rosemont, Ill., and run by the association known physically alter the genetic material in cells; this term may appear on the MSDS as Cosmetologists Chicago na - na n nail grooves n. slits or tracks in the nail bed at the sides of the nail on which the nail grows nail art n. turning nails into small canvases that you can create designs on; can be created with polish, paints, colored acrylics or gels, and embellishments [see page 111] nail lacquer n. a term used to describe fingernail polish nail bed n. a thick growth of epidermal cells that supports the natural nail plate nail biter n. a person who habitually chews his nails, often down to an unhealthy length; nail biting is generally understood to be not merely a bad habit but a hard-tochange pathology with psychological roots; there are a variety of treatments and services nail professionals can offer to break the habit nail care n. the art and science of treating and caring for nails (including toes and fingers) nail bar Popular for some time in Europe and Japan, nail bars are gaining in popularity in the U.S. The typical nail bar resembles an actual bar, with a long table and a row of chairs on both sides. Nail techs sit side-by-side instead of having their own stations. The term nail bar is also used to refer to a nails-only salon. nail charm n. a piece of jewelry used on the fingernails, often a dangling piece of jewelry; affixed either with adhesive or through a hole created in an artificial nail nail disorder n. a condition caused by injury to the nail or disease or imbalance in the body nail file n. any of several tools with hardened ridged surfaces, used in smoothing, polishing, or grinding down nails [see page 113] nail fold n. the deep fold of skin at the base of the nail where the nail root is embedded; also called the mantle nail plate n. the main part or plate of the nail that is attached to the skin at the tip of the finger; although the nail plate appears to be one piece, it is actually constructed of layers nail prep n. the portion of a nail service, usually an acrylic service, that focuses on reducing the moisture and oils on the natural nail so that a tip or sculpt will adhere best; often, problems with acrylic nails are the result of incomplete nail prep nail root n. where the nail growth begins; it is embedded underneath the skin at the base of the nail the NAILS encyclopedia nail bar n. a term used to refer to a nails-only salon (informal); sometimes refers to a salon that seats clients together along a high bar table; made popular originally in Japan, where a counter type table would serve as a nail station to nailists in a department store providing nail care services [see inset this page] Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC) n. a professional association of nail manufacturers formed in the early 1990s to promote the interests and causes of the professional nail industry and originally under the umbrella organization American Beauty Association, which was merged into the Professional Beauty Association in 2004 nail strengthener n. also called a hardener; applied to the natural nail before the base coat nail technician (nail tech) n. a professional who practices nail care; in most U.S. states, there are educational and licensing requirements to become a nail technician; the term came into favor in the late 1980s as the products being used in the salon required greater skill than before, when practitioners were called “manicurists” nail walls n. the skin on the sides of the nail above the grooves 19 na - no nail wrap n. paper, silk, linen, fiberglass, or other fabrics that are applied in combination with cyanoacrylate as a natural nail coating, nail extension, or over a tip NFPA hazard classification n. 0-4 rating system for hazardous chemicals in four classifications: health, flammability, reactivity, and other; this system may be used on the MSDS nailist n. another term to describe a nail care professional; often used by Japanese nail techs NIOSH (National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health) n. the federal organization that researches industrial safety and makes recommendations to OSHA the NAILS encyclopedia national licensing n. the concept that all U.S. states might adopt a single curriculum and standards for licensing, so that a nail professional in any state is required to have the same schooling, testing, and training natural adj. occurs in nature; this term is not a measure of safety; many potentially dangerous substances are naturally occurring; there are no federal guidelines for defining or limiting the use of this term nail wrap natural nail n. refers to the naturally occuring fingernail (as opposed to nail enhancements) natural nail care n. the art and science of treatment and care of nails (including toenails and fingernails) only as it relates to services and treatments that leave the natural nails intact (without artificial extensions, etc.) [see page 115] nitrocellulose n. a polymer used in the production of many nail polishes and top coats no-light gel n. a thickened cyanoacrylate coating that is sometimes used over tips or natural nails to strengthen or reinforce Nail technicians who have been around more than 20 years like to tell stories about how they used cigarette papers and teabags as nail wraps before fiberglass and precut fingers came along. Today, a host of professionally manufactured items replace the catch-ascatch-can approach. networking v. the practice of sharing advice and ideas with other like professionals; can be done in person, online, at tradeshows, or by phone nevus n. a brown or black stain on the nail caused by a pigmented mole that occurs on the nail newbie n. a recently graduated or newly employed nail professional; someone with very little professional salon experience 20 nippers n. implement used for clipping or trimming cuticles or acrylic nails; usually made of stainless steel, they can be disinfected between clients for use on multiple clients [see page 117] NFPA n. an abbreviation for the National Fire Protection Agency non-acetone polish remover n. a remover usually containing the solvents ethyl acetate or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) instead of acetone non-acid primer n. a substance that increases the adhesion of artificial nail products to the natural nail without the use of methacrylic acid; also called non-etching primer non-toxic adj. for a substance to be considered “non-toxic” it must have an LD50 rating of >15g/Kg; for the average adult, this is equal to the ingestion of more than one quart of the non-toxic substance without it causing harmful effects; any substance with an LD50 rating of <15g/Kg is considered toxic to some degree no-show n. the term for a client who does not show up for her appointment as scheduled or confirmed od - ov o by a fungus (vegetable parasite); a common form is whitish patches that can be scraped off the surface [see inset this page] odorless acrylics n. a term used to describe acrylic liquids that are not easily detected by the human sense of smell; not necessarily indicative of low evaporation rate or safety onychophagy n. the medical term for nails that have been bitten enough to become deformed onychauxis (or hypertrophy) n. shows the opposite symptoms of onychatrophia; onychauxis is the overgrowth of nails; nails with this disorder are abnormally thick ony- onychia n. an inflammation somewhere in the nail; the tissue at the base of the nail may be red and swollen and pus may form; it is often caused by improperly disinfected manicuring implements onychocryptosis or ingrown nails n. a familiar condition of the fingers and toes in which the nail grows into the sides of the tissue around the nail; improper filing of the nail and poorfitting shoes are causes of this disorder onychorrhexis n. refers to split or brittle nails that also have a series of lengthwise ridges; can be caused by injury to the fingers, excessive use of cuticle solvents, nail polish removers, and careless, rough filling onyx n. the technical term for nail onycholysis onychomycosis Onyx is the prefix that means “nail” and it is the root of many of the terms defining nail diseases and disorders. onychogryphosis n. a condition in which the nail curvature is increased and enlarged; the nail becomes thicker and curves, sometimes extending over the tip of the finger or toe; this condition results in inflammation and pain if the nail grows into the skin; the cause of this disorder is unknown orangewood stick n. disposable wood stick with slanted ends used to loosen cuticle around the base of a nail or to clean under the free edge the NAILS encyclopedia onychatrophia n. also known as atrophy; describes the wasting away of the nail; the nail loses its shine, shrinks, and falls off onychoptosis n. a condition in which part or all of the nail sheds periodically and falls off the finger; it can affect one or more nails; it can occur during or after certain diseases of the body, such as syphilis, as a result of fever and system upsets, as a reaction to prescription drugs, or as a result of trauma organic adj. any substance that contains the element carbon; nearly every product sold to nail technicians is organic; this term does not imply any degree of safety OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) n. a federal organization whose responsibility it is to ensure safe working conditions for employees onycholysis n. a condition in which the nail loosens from the nail bed, beginning usually at the free edge and continuing to the lunula, but does not come off; it is caused by an internal disorder, trauma, infection, or certain drug treatments [see inset this page] OTC (over the counter) adj. refers to products that can be purchased without a professional license or prescription; also refers to a store or supplier that sells products to non-professionals onychomycosis n. an infectious disease caused overlay n. any coating created by fashioning 21 ox - pi acrylic, fiber wraps, or gels over the underlying nail or artificial nail tip oxygen n. colorless, odorless gas that makes up about 20% of the air we breathe; it is essential to life because it is used for the chemical reactions that occur in the cells of the body p the NAILS encyclopedia paronychia n. a bacterial inflammation of the tissue around the nail; the symptoms are redness, swelling, and tenderness surrounding the nail PEL (permissible exposure limit) n. OSHAestablished inhalation exposure limits, usually expressed in parts per million, it is the concentration of a substance in the air that can be breathed in a normal 40hour work week by most people without suffering adverse effects pigment pH n. the measure or level of hydrogen ions (H+) in waterbased solutions; used to determine the acidity (pH1-6) or alkalinity (pH 8-14) of water-based solutions; pure water has a pH of 7 There are three basic classes of pigments that are the basis of all colors — Chlorophylls (green), Carotenoids (red, orange, or yellow), and Phycobilins, which are water-soluble pigments. Photo courtesy of Ovolin AB. of the tissue paronychium n. the part of the skin that surrounds the entire nail area patent n. a document granting an inventor sole rights to an invention pathogen n. a microorganism that is capable of causing disease 22 pedicare n. a term coined by Belvedere USA Corp. to describe the complete service that is the contemporary pedicure [see page 121] pedicure n. care and service of the feet, toes, and toenails papain n. an enzyme derived from papaya that is used to exfoliate the skin paraffin n. a waxy crystalline substance that is obtained from distillates of carbons and is used chiefly in coating and sealing; used in salon services whereby a client dips her hand or foot into melted paraffin a few times (called a “paraffin dip”), creating a shell that will harden while it helps moisturize the skin; hardened paraffin is easily peeled off the skin and disposed of, leaving skin gently and therapeutically moisturized [see page 119] a whirlpool tub that a client soaks her feet in, and can have many amenities attached to the chair (such as music, massage rollers, headrest); sometimes called “pedicure thrones” [see page 123] pedi spa n. the term used to describe the piece of salon equipment used for a luxurious pedicure service; although not always, it usually involves phalanges n. any of the bones in the fingers or toes; there is one in each finger, two in each thumb, totaling 14 bones phthalates n. a family of chemicals, produced from phthalic anhydride and alcohols, frequently used as plasticizers in plastics and cosmetics, including nail polish pigment n. substances that give paint color, derived from natural or synthetic materials that have been ground into fine powders [see inset this page] pink-and-white n. an acrylic service, usually with acrylics, incorporating both white and pink powders so a nail technician can create a realistic-looking acrylic nail; the process uses white powder on the tip and pink on the nail bed pi - pr plastic n. a generic term that refers to any solid substance that will bend, yield, or flow under force or stress; common usage generally limits the term to organic polymers that display “plastic” behavior plasticizer n. a substance added to adhesives, coatings, or polymers that increases the flexibility or workability of the final product polish remover n. a solvent blend that dissolves nail polishes and removes them from the nail; usually acetone or non-acetone porcelain n. a mixture of inorganic substances that have been fused together at extremely high temperatures; used in dentistry for artificial teeth; sometimes incorrectly used to describe artificial fingernail extensions made from acrylic liquid monomers and polymers porous adj. containing pores or openings that will cause lower strength; polymers used in the nail industry are all classified as non-porous powder n. materials that have been finely ground or pulverized into very small, individual particles; the term typically refers to the polymer powders used to create acrylic (liquid/ powder) systems; these substances are usually blends of finely ground methacrylate polymers [see inset this page] powder polish n. a solvent-based coating containing pigments and/or dyes used to create decorative effects on fingernails or toenails polish dryer n. any mechanical device, brushon liquid, or spray used to quickly dry nail polish converts monomers to polymers Acrylic powder was already in use in dentistry before it was ever applied to nails. Nail technicians began experimenting with these powders, but those who tried the dental powder-and-liquid combination often found the granules were too coarse and the resulting nails were too dense and yellowed easily. Some of the first acrylic formulas developed for nails contained MMA, which the FDA deemed unsafe for use in nail products in 1978. polish thinner n. a volatile solvent added to polish to restore the product to its original consistency or viscosity; also called polish solvent polymer n. the chemical bonding of many smaller individual organic monomers into a large structure, i.e. hair is a polymer of thousands of amino acids connected into chains; the powder part of an acrylic system polymerization n. the process of forming a polymer; reaction of many small monomers into larger, more complex structures polymerize v. to cause a chemical reaction that PPM n. the abbreviation for parts per million; parts of vapor or gas per million parts of air press-on nails n. plastic nail tips that are applied with adhesive and that cover the entire nail (fullwell tips); press-on nails were made popular in the 1970s by Lee Pharmaceuticals and were the precursors to today’s tips and professional nail enhancements the NAILS encyclopedia pipeless adj. the mechanism to create the whirlpool action used in pedicure spas; the term “pipeless” is owned by SaniJet; these systems have traditional piped plumbing that brings water from its source into the tub, but the water is not “circulated” in the traditional piped sense; also known as “pipe-free” [see page 125] primary allergen n. a substance that can cause acute or immediate allergic reactions, i.e. poison ivy primary irritant n. a substance that causes acute or immediate irritation to skin and/or soft tissue primer n. a substance used to improve adhesion between the artificial nail and natural nail private labeling n. the practice of putting one’s salon or one’s own name on a generic product; private label companies will create cosmetic 23 pr - re products and allow salons to use their own label on the bottles and market the products as their own creation pumice n. a porous, lightweight volcanic rock used in solid form as an abrasive and in powdered form as a polish and abrasive professional-only products n. supplies that are intended for use by trained nail technicians (or other salon professionals), generally for reasons of safety pusher n. used to push back excess cuticle growth; the spoon end is used to push back cuticle profit and loss (P&L) statement n. a financial document that is produced by a business (or an individual) that shows how much money the business has made based on the amount of money left over after expenses have been deducted; in a profit and loss statement, the revenue is listed on the top line, the expenses then are subtracted, leaving the profit on the bottom line (hence, the term, “bottom line”) q quick dry n. a chemical product that dries nail polish fast (can be brush-on, spray on, droplets); a drying aid the NAILS encyclopedia reflexology profit margin n. the percentage of earnings that are retained from all revenues after all costs and expenses are subtracted; for example, a nail salon that earns $1,000 and has $600 in expenses has a profit margin of 40% (to figure profit margin, first determine net earnings, which is total earnings minus expenses, then divide net earnings into total earnings) Reflexology is a natural healing art based on the principle that there are reflex points on the feet, outer ears, and hands that are actually “reflections” of body parts. Their location and relationships follow a logical anatomical pattern that closely resembles that of the body itself. This ancient healing technique involves a steady pressure on the reflex points, which correspond to areas throughout the body. profitability n. the ability of a business to earn profits (to be profitable) r R & D (research and development) n. the practical application of knowledge for discovering new knowledge about products, processes, and services, and then applying that knowledge to create new and improved products, processes, and services that fill market needs radiation n. the process of emitting light, sound, heat, particles, or energy; both UV and visible light are forms of radiation; each radiates light of a particular wavelength rebalance n. another term for fill protective eyewear n. eyeglasses that have been specifically designed to prevent chemical splashes or foreign bodies from entering the eye 24 protein n. chemical substances made from long chains of amino acids reciprocity n. from the word “reciprocal,” this is the practice of U.S. states allowing nail professionals educated and licensed in one state to practice in another; usually involves passing the exam of the host state proximal nail fold n. the skin folded over the part of the nail plate attached to the finger red sable n. hair from the soft-furred animal, which is used in nail care brushes pterygium n. the inward advance of skin over the nail plate, usually the result of trauma to the matrix reflexology n. a science that applies pressure to the feet or hands to stimulate reflexes that correspond to specific areas of the body [see inset this page] re - se retailing n. all activities involved in selling goods or services directly to the salon customer Raynaud’s Syndrome n. a condition characterized by blood vessels in the hands and feet that spasm and temporarily cut off blood flow to the digits, most commonly found among otherwise healthy women ages 20-40; people with Raynaud’s have a higher risk for infection due to poor circulation in their extremities during a spasm salt glow n. a treatment done in salons that involves rubbing the skin with an exfoliating product made with salt or other gritty substance, usually in an oil base; when done gently it smoothes the skin and takes a layer of dead cells off the skin sanitation n. the killing or significant reduction of the number of disease-causing microorganisms to levels that are considered safe by public health standards; sanitation is the lowest of three levels of decontamination sanitizer n. sea salt ridge fillers n. products that are opaque and have a thicker viscosity that are used to even out nails that are ridged; some ridge fillers are multipurpose and can also act as base coats or nail treatments Sea salt is harvested by channeling ocean water into large clay trays and allowing the sun and wind to evaporate the water naturally. Manufacturers of sea salt typically do not refine sea salt as much as other kinds of salt, so it still contains traces of other minerals, including iron, magnesium, calcium, potassium, manganese, zinc and iodine. Sea salt is combined with oils and fragrances to create the very popular salt scrubs used in salons and spas. RPM (rotations per minute) n. a term that describes how fast an electric file rotates; the higher the number, the faster the drill bit is rotating; most responsible electric file users recommend using low RPM on natural nails or when finishing near the cuticle area, and using a higher RPM for taking down product bulk (as in acrylic) Russian sable n. the fine fur of an animal found in northern Russia; used in nail care brushes s salicylic acid n. a main ingredient in betahydroxy acids; a mild acid used to remove the top layer of skin an agent capable of killing or significantly reducing the number of disease-causing microorganisms on a surface, i.e. cleaning solutions and soaps sculpt v. the technique used to create a nail extension without the use of a tip; sculpting requires a form to be attached underneath the natural nail’s free edge, then product is applied in nail shape to extend the length; called sculpting because it literally starts with a ball of product that is molded or “sculpted” into the shape of a natural nail the NAILS encyclopedia resin n. a solid or semi-solid organic material that has an indefinite and often very high molecular weight, exhibits a tendency to flow when subjected to stress or force, and will usually soften or melt when heated; usually, uncross-linked polymers; often inaccurately used to describe liquid acrylic monomers and liquid cyanoacrylate (wrap) monomers; the more appropriate term to use for such materials is “liquid resin” sculptured nails n. artificial nails created by fashioning or “sculpting” acrylic over the underlying natural nail or on a nail form without an artificial tip sea salt n. salt that is obtained by evaporation of sea water [see inset this page] self-adhesive adj. refers to products that have an adhesive already applied; usually refers to wrap mesh that has been treated with an adhesive for quick application self-leveling adj. the property, usually used to describe gel products or some acrylic products, that allows it to even out on its own, without being 25 se - sp pulled or patted or sculpted into form; products that are self-leveling usually require less filing than those that are not sensitization n. the biological process of becoming sensitive to a particular substance; adverse reactions to a chemical resulting from previous exposure to that chemical or one of a similar type or structure the NAILS encyclopedia sensitizer n. a chemical that causes a substantial proportion of exposed people or animals to develop an allergic reaction in normal tissue after repeated (or prolonged) exposure to the chemical 26 shader brush n. a versatile brush with a slightly tapered rectangular head, good for backgrounds and drawing larger images treating and caring of the skin; estheticians are licensed to treat the top layer of the skin smile line n. the lengthwise point on a nail where the nail bed ends and the free edge starts, it is a half-circle that somewhat resembles a smile; also used to describe the artificial creation of the same line with acrylics, gels, or other enhancements [see inset this page] Solingen n. a city in Germany renowned for its finely crafted metal implements [see page 127] solvent n. a substance capable of dissolving other solids or liquids, i.e. water is called the “universal solvent” smile line spa n. there are different kinds of spas and there is no absolute definition; generally speaking it is a salontype environment where shading v. in nail art, to patrons partake in services use a darker color to create and therapies such as shadow and depth in an facials, massage, water object treatments, and nail care; it is distinguished from a fullshelf life n. the amount of service salon by its private time a product will remain For many nail technicians, achieving the perfect smile line can be tricky. Generally, a treatment rooms, and fresh after it is opened smile line should mirror the shape of the comprehensive services; cuticle, so if you were to bend the nails in half originally a spa was a place side load v. in nail art, to they should match. The sides should be just someone would go for load a brush with more as high on each side and the center of the smile line should be at its lowest point in the several days for treatment paint than water center of the nail. The shape should be (usually called a “destincentered, as the tip of a round nail should be. ation spa”) where the sidewall n. the skin on environment is geared either side of the nail plate, also known as the lateral nail fold, acts as a toward the corner-stones of a spa experience: mind and body fitness, healthy eating, relaxation, barrier against bacteria, fungi, and viruses and treatments silk n. a fiber made of protein derived from splinter hemorrhage n. small areas of silkworms bleeding under fingernails or toenails that take ski jump nails n. nails that slope upward at the the shape of straight lines and may be caused by microembolic damage to the vessels; appear free edge as narrow red to reddish brown hemorrhages skin absorption n. the ability of certain beneath the nails that run in the direction of nail chemicals to pass through the epidermis into the growth and are named splinter hemorrhage dermis, where it may be transported into the because they have the appearance of a splinter beneath the fingernail; may be caused by bloodstream microscopic clots that damage the small skin care n. the art and science of cosmetic capillaries under the nails st - ti state board n. the governing and oversight body for the cosmetology industries in each state; the composition of state boards vary by state, and authority varies widely [for a complete list of state boards see page 52] sterilization n. a multi-step process that achieves the complete destruction of all living organisms on an object or surface; sterilization is the highest of three levels of decontamin-ation; this level is virtually impossible to achieve in the salon sterilizer n. a device or method used as one of the separate steps necessary in the sterilization process absorption, or flow of a liquid on a solid surface t tamboret n. a small cabinet, usually on rollers, that salon professionals use to store supplies tanning v. process in which skin pigmentation darkens as a result of exposure to ultraviolet light tea tree oil n. also known as melaleuca, it is extracted from the leaves of the Australian tea tree for its antiseptic and antibacterial uses [see inset this page] stippling v. in nail art, marks made by dabbing a loaded brush against a surface teratogen n. a substance that may cause abnormal fetal development or birth defects striper brush n. a brush with a few long hairs; efficient for elongated vertical or horizontal lines thixotropic n. the ability of a liquid to become thinner (lower viscosity) when mixed or stirred, but that will return to its original viscosity when the mixing action is halted stripette brush n. a shorter version of the striper brush, creates vertical and horizontal lines but in shorter strokes stylus dots n. in nail art, paint dots made using the tip of a pointed instrument sunscreen n. ultraviolet light Tea tree oil is a natural antiseptic ingredient with broad-spectrum antimicrobial and antiinflammatory properties, as well as excellent solvency and dermal penetration. Its antifungal properties have been known to reduce fungusrelated ailments such as athlete’s foot and cracked heels. As a preventative, it can combat foot odor and sweaty feet. There are a multitude of professional nail and skin care products that include tea tree oil as an active ingredient. any substance that absorbs sunsetting n. the practice of reviewing and evaluating the need for a state’s licensing regulations, which occurs every few years in most U.S. states; most states periodically review the need for regulating certain industries (not just cosmetology) and may decide to change the oversight of the industry, deregulate the industry, or keep all regulations in place surfactant n. an acronym for Surface Active Agent; surfactants improve the wetting, thymol n. a white, crystalline, aromatic com-pound derived from thyme oil and other oils or made synthetically and used as an antiseptic, a fungicide, and a preservative the NAILS encyclopedia tea tree oil tips n. a broad term describing pre-molded artificial fingernails that are adhered to the natural nail to create an extension; typically made from ABS plastic or tinite acetate; (2) the extra monies given to a service worker on top of the service price TLV (threshold limit value) n. NIOSHestablished inhalation exposure limits; usually expressed in parts per million; it is the concentration of a substance in the air that can be breathed in a normal 40-hour work week by most people without suffering adverse effects 27 to - vi u toluene n. a colorless flammable liquid used as a solvent in lacquers top coat n. a colorless polish that is applied over colored polish to prevent chipping and add shine to the finished nail Top 25 Competitors n. a ranking or listing in order of the 25 nail competitors who have won the most contests; devised by NAILS Magazine in 1993 to track the top competitors the NAILS encyclopedia toxic adj. poisonous; ability (or property) of a substance to produce a harmful or lethal effect on humans and for the environment toxicity n. the quality or degree of being poisonous or harmful to plant or animal life tradeshow n. an event where manufacturers and salon professionals gather to buy and sell products, demonstrate product systems, partake in educational events, and meet and network with other professionals ultraviolet (UV) light n. usually refers to the safer, long-wave UV-A (350-400 nm) portion of the spectrum and should not include the more dangerous short-wave UV-B light (250-275 nm); both types can be responsible for yellowing of artificial nail coatings [see inset this page] When all the wavelengths of the visible light spectrum strike your eye at the same time, white is perceived. That is why visible light is sometimes referred to as white light. Technically speaking, white is not a color at all, but rather the combination of all the colors of the visible light spectrum. Ultraviolet light is a form of radiation that is not visible to the human eye. It’s in an invisible part of the “electromagnetic spectrum.” Though some ultraviolet waves from the sun penetrate Earth’s atmosphere, most of them are blocked from entering by various gases like ozone. triclosan n. an antibacterial ingredient found in antibacterial soaps 28 ultrasonic adj. having frequencies above those of audible sound UV light visible light treatment n. a salon service, generally considered not merely cosmetic but done to tend to a specific concern; another word for a product that “treats” the nail (used interchangeably with “strengthener”) tuberculocidal adj. bacterium tuberculosis UL listed adj. a product adhering to standards of Underwriters Laboratories, an independent, non-profit testing laboratory organized for the purpose of investigating products and materials with respect to hazards affecting life and property able to kill myco- tweezers n. small pincers, usually metal, used for plucking or handling small objects; nail artists often use tweezers to pick up rhinestones or other small adornments for precise placement on the nail USP (United States Pharmacopeia) n. an organization that develops and recommends proper procedures for the accurate testing for foods and drugs UV absorber n. a substance that absorbs damaging ultraviolet light v vapor n. the gas formed by the evaporation of liquids, i.e. solvents; this term is often incorrectly confused with “fumes” ventilation systems n. systems that collect dust and vapors and then discharge them from the building or workplace; does not include systems that attempt to remove contaminants from the breathing air or improve circulation of the air about the workplace virucide n. an agent (physical or chemical) that inactivates or destroys viruses vi - yl viscosity n. the measure of a liquid’s ability to flow; closely related to the apparent thickness (or thinness) of the liquid; viscosity is usually measured in units called Cps visible light n. wavelengths of light that are visible to the eye; the color spectrum; violet (400 nm) to red (780 nm) vitamin E n. an important antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals in the body which can absorb water; cleaning is done with implements and solutions rather than by soaking waxing v. a method of removing unwanted body hair using hot or cold wax wellness n. an overall philosophy associated with an individual’s lifestyle which, through a combination of exercise, diet, and mental wellbeing can reduce health care utilization and costs wetting n. the ability or ease of a liquid to spread out and uniformly cover a surface wellness volatile adj. a measure of how quickly or easily a liquid will form vapors at room temperature; the more volatile (higher volatility), the faster the substance will evaporate volatile organic compounds (VOC) n. compounds that contain carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, chlorine, and other atoms that can evaporate easily into the atmosphere; found in nature as well as in some glues, solvents, and paints white block n. a type of nail file, shaped like a small rectangular block, which is used to buff the nail to either remove oils or ridges as part of nail prep, also used to finish and buff nails to a shine word of mouth n. advertising generated by satisfied or interested clients who tell others about a salon Many salons and spas are capitalizing on the growing popularity of wellness and taking care of one’s body by offering services that help nurture both mind and body. Take a look at any salon service menu and you’re likely to find services that incorporate all-natural ingredients, massage, and aromatherapy, among other extras. w wrap system n. see nail wrap y walk-in n. clients who visit the salon without an appointment wash v. in nail art, to thin paint with water, making it transparent; used to create a translucent image waterless manicure n. a manicure service that does not require the client to soak her hands in water at any point; thought by some to enhance adhesion of nail polish and to be better for nails, worker’s compensation n. system established under state law that provides payments, without regard to fault, to employees injured in the course and scope of their employment the NAILS encyclopedia virus n. any of a large group of submicroscopic, infective agents that are regarded as either very simple microorganisms or as complex molecules; viruses can only reproduce in living cells, causing a wide variety of diseases in man, lower animals, and plants yeast n. a type of fungus that infects human fingernails yellowing n. the discoloration and breakdown of artificial nail coatings by ultraviolet light, excessive heat, or chemical contaminants ylang-ylang n. an oil or perfume obtained from the flowers of the ylang-ylang tree ■ Originally published in NAILS 2004 - 2005 The Big Book. © 2004 The Big Book 29
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