April 2015 For your beauty, hair and spa business GCC The eyes have it The latest lash and brow treatments Colour confidence Seasonal hair hues Winning ways World spa awards winners revealed behindthescenes How bespoke products can boost your business THE MOST POWERFUL INGREDIENTS IN SKINCARE COME FROM THE SAFEST SOURCE… NATURE. the leader in delivering natural skincare solutions to the finest spas and professional aestheticians worldwide. From anti-aging to rosacea, For the past 20 years, Pevonia has been acne to dry skin, eyes and lips and an easy to use regimen formulated just for her/him, Pevonia has an aesthetician-proven solution to every skin concern. Pevonia’s award-winning products and in-spa treatments are coveted by celebrities, influencers, and consumers worldwide for their aesthetician-proven ability to deliver outstanding skin solutions that restore, rejuvenate, and revitalize all skin types. Pevonia partners enjoy an industry leading global partner support program. Join Pevonia and discover how we can help you reach your business goals and enhance professional success. Alcohol-Free Lanolin-Free Mineral Oil-Free PABA-Free No Artificial Color No Formaldehyde No Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Non-Comedogenic Eco-Packaging Cruelty-Free 7JTJUPVSTUBOEBU1SPGFTTJPOBM#FBVUZ($$.BEJOBU+VNFJSBI %VCBJ GPSMJWF#*05&$EFNPTUSBUJPOTXJUI&MFNJT*OUFSOBUJPOBM5SBJOFS contents professionalbeauty.ae 4 Published by and (C) 2015 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks [email protected] Contributing editor: Zoe Moleshead [email protected] Contributors: Andrea Anastasiou, Maria Dowling, Sally Hewerdine, and Dr Mike Ryan Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz [email protected] Sales executive: Fernanda Chavez [email protected] Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: [email protected] t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 39 Marketing Manager: Nicki Wyatt [email protected] General Manager: Andrew Green [email protected] Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production: Scratch Advertising & Communication www.scratchcom.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers' particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries. facebook/PBGCC @PBGCC in this issue... Regulars 7 News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty Features 69 Product news Stock up with spring’s spa, hair and beauty products 47 Catwalk claws Nails inspired by New York fashion week 18 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 61 Training days Maria Dowling explains how investing in training provides pay off 31 Ask the experts The low-down on training in holistic beauty, treating milia and boosting revenue with enhanced treatments 49 The hair doctor Dr Mike Ryan discusses female pattern hair thinning 65 Treatment news We test out a tanning treatment, warm quartz “sand” therapy and spotlight LPG’s first facial peel treatment Goldwell Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 44 Totally made-up The PB team gets a Madi makeover 63 All change Sally Hewerdine on how to steer your business through times of change 80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training welcome professionalbeauty.ae 5 H ow much do you va lue t ra in ing? Professiona l Beaut y’s Insider sur vey t h is mont h revea led some sur pr ising stat ist ics. In the beauty sector, which includes hair and nails, 60 per cent of participants inter viewed said they would take on a new product line even if the company did not offer training. This contrasted dramatically with the spa sector, where ever y business questioned said they would refuse to consider taking on a new product line unless training was included as part of the package. These results are a stark reminder of how far we have yet to go in some sectors of our industr y when it comes to changing attitudes and beliefs about the importance of training to ensure the highest standards. Although training may seem like an initial drain on resources – be it time or money – it should be viewed as a long term investment. One woman, who passionately believes in investing in training is our hair columnist Maria Dowling. On page 61 she explains how she closes her salon once a month to host a training day with her whole staff. While she may lose revenue in the short term, she believes this pays off in the longer term through both staff retention and customer satisfaction, which leads ultimately to improved sales. Highly-trained staff from the MENA region were recently commended at Professional Beauty’s World Spa Awards. At a glittering reception in London, UK, Remède Spa at the St Regis, Abu Dhabi UAE, scooped the Hotel Spa of the Year award, while the Banyan Tree Al Wadi, Ras al Khaimah, UAE, collected the Resort Spa of the Year title. Find out why they won from our judges’ tips on what makes a winning spa, as well as full winner profiles on page 37. We hope you’re as inspired by them as we are! 51 Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR On the cover 23 The eyes have it The latest lash and brow treatments 37 Winning ways World Spa Award winners revealed 51 Colour confidence Seasonal hair hues 57 Behind the scenes How bespoke products can boost business 69 61 11 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 www.provocmakeup.com Be Pro Be Provoc news professionalbeauty.ae 7 News All the news and views from the world of beauty, hair and spa Cayan Group enters strategic partnership with Raison d’Etre M iddle East real estate developer, Cayan Group, has announced a strategic partnership with Swedish luxury spa specialists, Raison d’Etre. The agreement between the two parties will initially see the development of a LivNordic Spa by Raison d’Etre in the Cayan Tower in Dubai Marina. The Cayan Group will retain ownership for the spa in the tower, while Raison d’Etre will be tasked with managing and running the spa. Ahmed Alhatti, president and chairman of Cayan Group, describes the partnership with Raison d’Etre as “a testament to our commitment to provide exclusive, memorable and one-of-a-kind services to our tenants across our properties.” Both parties believe the introduction of the LivNordic Spa, which is being designed by Italian architects M+N Architecture will offer not only a luxurious spa experience to clients, but also a unique one that is based around Nordic living and wellness. “LivNordic is a new spa brand with a genuine Nordic heritage, a true Nordic lifestyle experience created by Raison d’Etre,” explains Sabine Itze, project director, Raison d’Etre. “LivNordic celebrates the extreme contrasts in Scandinavian countries, for example the darkness in winter and the never-ending sunshine in summer. LivNordic is about the Men’s sector receives boost with opening of Jazz Lounge Spa Established ladies salon and spa chain Tips & Toes has branched out in a new direction with the launch of its first men’s spa. Jazz Lounge Spa, located in Al Barsha, Dubai, is a two-storey property that spans across 3,400 sq. ft. Boasting three massage rooms, four nail stations, six hairstyling stations, two bath treatment rooms, one waxing room and one room for facials, the spa is wellequipped to offer an array of treatments to its new clientele. Both male and female technicians will be available to provide the treatments, which include everything from hair services such as colour and cut, nail treatments, massages, including the signature Jazz Quartet Massage, skin, body and bath rituals and grooming treatments such as waxing and shaving. The spa has been designed and decorated with a distinctly stylish and masculine look; exposed brick walls, wood panelling and a bold colour palette, complemented by plush Natuzzi leather chairs in the nail section and Takara Belmont ones in hair area. Brands available within the spa include Pevonia, Morjana, L’Oréal and Kérastase. balance between these contrasts.” Expanding upon the LivNordic Spa in the Cayan Tower, Itze reveals that goal of the spa is to offer Dubai residents a wellness experience and one that is inspiring and mindful, providing them with “the tools to live a happier and healthier life – the Nordic way.” As part of this goal, only natural and organic ingredients will be used in the treatment and culinary menus of the spa. Itze added: “There will be six treatment rooms, a steam room, sauna, plunge pool, gym, beauty salon, spa café and outdoor pool. You will of course be able to experience a real Nordic bathing ritual here with hot and cold experiences.” News in brief Fashionizer has designs on Four Seasons' spa Uniforms with antibacterial properties are ensuring staff members at The Pearl Spa stay fresh and odour-free even in summer’s soaring temperatures. UK-based Fashionizer created the uniforms for the spa, salon and pool and beach staff at the new Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach. Fashionizer managing director Debbie Leon said: “Our new linenrich fabric with Silverplus treatment is perfect for Dubai, where temperatures are regularly in the mid to high 40s. We were delighted to be able to incorporate this new product into the uniform programme for Four Seasons.” Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 hair detox professionalbeauty.ae 8 Time for a Hair Detox? At mariadowling, we never underestimate the power of detoxing the hair. External toxins and product overload can both affect the growth and vitality of the hair, which is why we have developed our all-natural Hair & Scalp Detox clay masque to deeply cleanse, stimulate, moisturise and rebalance the hair and scalp. The product is simple. A ‘zen-like’ mix of clay and pure oils including peppermint, jojoba and lemongrass help to 1 An initial client consultation is a must. Try to find out if they have any specific hair and scalp issues they want to address. Oiliness, flakiness, unmanageable hair and itchy scalp are all issues common in the region, which can be balanced through regular detoxing. 4 Clip the hair up but don’t cover, and leave on for 20 minutes. The client will feel a tingling sensation in the scalp which is the effect of the natural peppermint. restore beauty to the hair as well as soothe irritated scalps. Apply fortnightly for best results and your clients will be on their way to healthy hair growth full of vitality and beauty. Our Hair & Scalp Detox can be applied in-salon and at home, with product available for both salon and retail customers. Here’s a little ‘how to’ on getting the best from the product… 2 3 At the backwash, wet hair thoroughly with tepid water then towel dry. Apply the clay to each section with the hands, from the scalp through to the ends. Work the product through thoroughly and gently massage into the hair and scalp to make sure all areas are covered. 5 6 At the backwash again, rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear. No need to use a shampoo or conditioner afterwards, as the Detox both cleanses and conditions. Dry and style as normal House of Maria Dowling LLC Corporate Executive Offices Building (CEO), Office 309, Dubai Investment Park 1, Dubai, United Arab Emirates / Po Box 72132 / Tel: +971 4 8841555 / +971 4 8877109 / Fax:+971 4 8841433 / [email protected] Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 news professionalbeauty.ae 9 News in brief Guests “take flight” from Zighy Bay Abu Dhabi Country Club opens expansive Thalgo Spa A bu Dhabi Country Club has officially opened the doors to its impressive Thalgo Spa. Spanning 2,000 square metres, the spa features dedicated male and female sections and a stylish VIP area. It also incorporates 23 treatment rooms, saunas, steam rooms and Jacuzzis. The treatment rooms, which include nine dedicated for men, eight for women and six for VIP guests, are equipped with memory foam massage beds for enhanced comfort. Its treatment menu includes massages, facials, soaks and other body treatments. Highlights on the menu include the Thalgo Massage and Mahana Massage, both Polynesianinspired rituals, and a treatment that comprises a lotus milk bath, an Indianinspired massage using essential oils and a lotus wrap. The creation of a relaxing and soothing environment has been fundamental to the design of the spa, and as such, elements such as ice fountains and views of waterfalls and greenery have been incorporated into it. A dedicated Thalgo boutique is also located within the spa. Commenting on the collaboration between Abu Dhabi Country Club and Thalgo, Arnaud Diaz, Thalgo international director, said: “We are happy to collaborate with Abu Dhabi Country Club, one of the UAE’s leading destinations for leisure and sports. We consider it as the best foothold for our spa in the GCC market as we are committed to providing the best services meeting international standards while respecting and complying with the GCC culture.” Thalgo is distributed in the Middle East by Madi International. Guests at Six Senses Zighy Bay in Oman can now enjoy some of Dubai’s star attractions via high speed seaplane. The resort has teamed up with seaplane operator Seawings to take guests from the seclusion of the resort to Dubai in just 50 minutes for a sightseeing trip. The flight will feature views of the The Palm Jumeirah and Burj Khalifa. Guests can then choose from a City Walk tour which includes an abra ride and tour of historical Dubai or a wildlife drive and afternoon tea before returning back to the resort. Global Wellness Summit announces theme and location for ninth annual event The summit, taking place in Mexico City November 13-15, will be held at the St Regis Mexico City under the theme of Building a Well World. The theme goes hand in hand with the event changing its name from the Global Spa & Wellness Summit to the Global Wellness Summit (GWS). In reflection of the theme, this year’s agenda will not only include participation from the spa, tourism and hospitality sectors, but also from medicine, fitness, real estate, architecture, nutrition, technology and other sectors involved or related to the wellness industry. Susie Ellis, chairman and chief executive of the GWS, said: “Progress towards a well world requires global collaboration among many different disciplines and industries, and never have so many business sectors been so keenly interested in wellness.” Ellis will co-host the summit with Gina Diez Barroso de Franklin, president and chief executive of Mexico City based Grupo Diarq, whose areas of activity include, design, education, real estate, publishing and entertainment. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 news professionalbeauty.ae 11 News in brief Join Global Wellness Day Bringing together exercise, healthy eating and inner health, Global Wellness Day is celebrated annually on the second Saturday of June. This year it will take place on June 13th and the organisers of the event are canvassing for further support to make it a truly international affair. Involving indoor and outdoor workshops and panels dealing with wellness issues such as healthy living, exercise, nutrition and physical and spiritual wellbeing, the event is attracting spas around the globe. More details on how you can participate in this non-for-profit event can be found at www.globalwellnessday.org. Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights introduces Nysa Spa H yatt Hotels Corporation expanded its presence in the UAE with the opening the Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights last month. The property is the fifth Hyattbranded hotel in Dubai and encompasses an impressive array of facilities in two high-rise towers. Located adjacent to the Dubai Creek, the towers measure 164 metres in height and feature a 464room hotel. Among the highlights of the property’s design are its vast lobby area filled with over 3,200 square feet of plant walls, flowers and greenery and towering glass ceiling. Hyatt Dubai Creek Heights, which has been developed by Wasl Hospitality, also comprises Nysa Spa and various dining and meeting amenities. Nysa Spa is home to eight treatment rooms, including couples’ suites, a water temple, traditional Hammam and male and female gyms and studios. Its treatment menu will include an express menu geared towards business clients. “We have assembled a worldclass team to bring a refreshing and enthusiastic spirit to Dubai’s buoyant hospitality market. Our vision seeks to redefine the guest experience in Dubai and offer a level of service excellence that is warm, energising and engaging,” said Mathieu Greppo, general manager, Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights. UAE distributor represents dermo-cosmetic Fillerina UAE pharmaceutical distributor Al Ittihad Drug Store (IDS) has announced it is acting a distributor for Fillerina, which it describes as the first non-invasive dermocosmetic filler treatment for at home use. Fillerina has been developed by Suisse Company Labo and comprises of a mix of six different hyaluronic acid molecules of varying molecular weights and sizes that are especially effective at penetrating the layers of the skin and thus allowing tissues to be filled in and plumped up. It has been developed for home use and therefore doesn’t involve skin injection. Dalya Tabari, director IDS said: “Fillerina has shown extremely positive results in the European market and we are expecting the same response in the UAE as well, keeping in mind that the beauty and skincare industry is pretty big in this part of the world as well.” Fillerina is recommended for women 30 years and above and is available in pharmacies and hospitals. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 news professionalbeauty.ae 12 Call for information sharing forum for GCC spas Westin Hotels & Resorts launches wellness retreats as part of yearlong wellbeing movement T he initiatives will debut at the hotel group’s North American properties, before being rolled out in this region and internationally. The retreats will see the Westin engage the expertise of practitioners across sectors including fitness, nutrition, yoga and mindful meditation and will include workshops, seminars and fitness and healthy cooking classes. The retreats are linked to Westin’s six pillars of wellbeing: Eat Well, Feel Well, Sleep Well, Work Well, Move Well and Play Well, with the inaugural retreat centred on the Move Well element. Brian Povinelli, global brand leader for Westin, said: “The Westin Wellness Escapes series is designed to motivate and educate those seeking to achieve or sustain a healthy lifestyle while still exploring the world." The Westin Wellbeing programme also includes partnerships with SuperFoodsRx, to offer healthy dining, and mediation app Headspace. At the recent Hotelier Middle East Spa and Wellnes forum, held in March, panellists called for collaboration and more benchmarking in the spa industry in this region. Emirates Palace spa director Hannah Dowd told Hotelier Middle East magazine that a forum for sharing information would be beneficial to the region’s spas. “I think there’s a need for it so we can share figures among hotels. A lot of companies are not willing to do so however. “If they’re protective about financials we can look at other areas where we can do benchmarking, for example at city spas versus resorts so we can have an idea of what’s happening in the rest of the UAE in Abu Dhabi and in Dubai.” Ab chiselling most popular procedure for UAE men According to the lead specialist plastic surgeon at Dubai Cosmetic Surgery clinic, Dr Juan Tadeo Krogulec, Ab Etching is becoming one of the most popular cosmetic surgery procedures in the region. Also known as chiselling, the minimally invasive procedure eliminates a layer of fat on the abdominal muscles to reveal a contoured and flat stomach. Dr Krogulec says the procedure appeals to those who want targeted results after failing to remove stubborn fat from the abdominal area through exercise and diet. “You can easily find someone who spends time at the gym working out, and Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 has well-defined muscles on their arms, legs, thighs and other areas, but when it comes to the midsection, the bulge is still there,” he explained. “This is a problem that has become very frustrating for many people especially men and they do not know any other way to achieve a more defined and contoured abdomen.” The procedure involves local anaesthesia and small incisions are made through the belly button to allow a small tube to be inserted, through which excess fat is removed, revealing the patient’s natural muscle tone. The procedure is suitable for both men and women. international news professionalbeauty.ae 15 Industry news from around the globe Tanning key growth area for China's male grooming market C hina’s male grooming market represents a key growth opportunity for the tanning sector, according to market analyst Datamonitor. While beauty ideals in China favour fair skin for women, a tougher, more outdoorsy look is the fashion for men. Self-tanning products and sunscreen with a tanning element are two products with strong potential in China’s male grooming market, Datamonitor said. The compound annual growth rate for the male toiletries market in China was 12.1 per cent between 2008 and 2013, compared to an 8.4 per cent for the overall toiletries market in the country. Six Senses’ Costa del Sol opening A Six Senses spa is set to open at the Puente Romano Beach Resort on Spain’s Costa del Sol this summer. Scheduled to open early in the summer, the spa will feature six indoor and three outdoor treatments rooms with ocean views. Other facilities at the spa will include a relaxation area, a nail bar and a thermal area with a hydrotherapy pool, a cold plunge pool, ice experience showers with mood lighting and a hammam, sauna and herbal steam room. Brands QMS Medicosmetics and The Organic Pharmacy will be used at the spa, with the menu comprising a range of treatments for the face and body, including Six Senses signature treatments. Treatments developed specifically for the spa will include therapies making use of local natural ingredients, such as olive oil, sea salt and herbs and minerals local to the area. The spa design has been inspired by Andalusia architecture, with Moorish influences. US beauty sales reach $33.5bn US beauty industry sales totalled $33.5billion last year, according to new data from market analyst Nielsen. Ninety-four per cent of US households purchase beauty products, spending an average of US$98 a year. However, sales have not increased, with virtually no growth recorded between 2013 and 2014. Millennials spent US$461million on beauty products in the 12-month period ending June 2014. Male spend on beauty products saw a 10 per cent increase between 2013 and 2014. Manufacturers are primarily focusing their advertising efforts on television, 42 per cent, and print, 54 per cent. Meanwhile, online advertising dropped by 73 per cent between 2013 and 2014. This is despite the fact that while the number of overall beauty purchase occasions declined by two per cent across the US sector last year, online shopping “trips” rose by 15.4 per cent. Advertisers need to segment their marketing more, to appeal to specific customer groups, Nielsen said. For example, women under the age of 55 favour products that focus on preserving a youthful appearance, rather than ones centred on anti-ageing. Women over 55, on the other hand, respond to marketing that clearly and directly address skin ageing concerns such as lines, wrinkles and sagging. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 insider professionalbeauty.ae 18 The month in numbers Average treatment room occupancy 57 Insider beauty, hair and nails Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know % How did the treatment business in February 2015 compare with February 2014? 48 52 % BETTER % WORSE February Year on year figures for February were a divisive area for the salon sector – with you split almost straight down the middle as to whether business was brighter or not than 2014 – and the findings erred just on the negative side. Things were, however, looking more positive on the treatment room occupancy rates and rebooking numbers where figures demonstrated healthy returns. Our research also turned up some surprising results when it comes to introducing new product lines, with a majority of you stating you would bring in a new line even if training wasn’t available – this is directly opposite to the results found in the spa sector. Online channels also play a key role in your business – whether it’s for recruitment or for interacting with existing and current clients. Percentage of clients who rebooked 58 % On the spot Where do you advertise your job vacancies? 1. Online recruitment websites 2. Word of mouth 3. Local paper or magazine 4.Own website 75 % have a business Instagram account Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 What is the most common complaint for clients asking for skincare treatments? 1. Dehydrated or oily skin 2. Acne / breakouts 3. Pigmentation 4.Fine lines / wrinkles 60 % would take on a new product line if the distributor didn’t offer training insider professionalbeauty.ae 19 The month in numbers Average Treatment Room Occupancy 32 % How did the treatment business in february 2015 compare with february 2014? 90 10 Insider Spa Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know % Better February % WORSE Percentage of clients who rebooked 29 % This year is continuing to prove a promising year for the spa sector with you once again reporting that year on year growth was evident and healthy. Most of you are aware of the growing presence and importance of social media – with a majority reporting that you have active Instagram accounts for your businesses. You also underlined the importance of the internet when it comes to your recruiting process, with online recruitment websites the preferential channel for most of you, over word-of-mouth and print media. Additionally, you also overwhelmingly underlined the importance and emphasis you place on training staff members when it comes to introducing a new brand. None of our respondents questions were prepared to commit to a new product line if training wasn’t available. This is welcome news and shows how standards have risen in the industry immensely over the past few years. On the spot Where do you advertise your job vacancies? 1. Online recruitment websites 2. Own website 3. Word of mouth 4.Local paper or magazine 0 % would take on a new product line if the distributor didn’t offer training What is the most common complaint for clients asking for skincare treatments? 1. Fine lines or wrinkles 2. Dehydrated or oily skin 3. Pigmentation 4.Acne or breakouts 83 % have a business Instagram account Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 brows and lashes professionalbeauty.ae 23 The Eyes have it Lash and brow services are big business but adjusting them to suit the needs of different age groups could give you the competitive edge BROWS The brief Clients in their 20s tend to stick to what’s on trend, with full, high-definition brows still in high demand. We tasked HD Brows with creating a brow look to reflect what was on show on the spring/summer 2015 catwalks. Creating the look: Treatment advice: HD Brows founder Nilam Holmes-Patel says that this season welcomes the brushed-up brow look: “It has been sported by celebrities including Emma Watson, Rosie Huntington-Whitley and Kate Moss, so is perfect for fashion-forward female clients.” She adds, “The look is all about texture, creating perfection and imperfection, so is suitable for all face shapes. The key to getting it right is keeping the brow hair long, while maintaining the structured highdefinition brow shape – the overall finish should be simple but still very much a statement.” 1. To create this distinctive look, every hair should be brushed upwards – you want to see every hair stroke. Either make it really extreme or take it down a notch depending on what the client wants, so do a thorough consultation beforehand. 2. The shade of the brow is also significant and should be multi-tonal from bulb to tip. This effect can be created with the brow palette. 3. Use a fine brow pencil, such as Makeup by HD Brows Brow Tec, to almost draw on the hair. This creates precise, fine lines rather than filling in the brows with a block of colour. 4. Finish with HD Brows Colourfix – a brush-on silky gel that tints, grooms and slicks brows into shape. LASHES The brief With the spring/summer 2015 catwalks awash with full-impact make-up, including feline flicks and defined lash lines, we set Lash Perfect the task of creating a look for clients in their 20s who are looking for a high-fashion finish. Creating the look: Treatment advice: Lash Perfect director Christina Jenkins suggests using a 3D effect such as its Russian Layering technique to give clients’ eyes a full, high-impact and glam appearance. She says, “Russian layering is a dream look for this age group as it can give a permanent strip lash effect, and also lasts longer and requires less maintenance than normal extensions.” 1. Start with a consultation to define the intensity and volume the client requires. Length can be varied to suit the eye shape. 2. Apply under-eye gel patches to the client’s lower lash line before starting the treatment 3. Between two and six lashes are adhered to a single natural lash. The therapist can build up the intensity, adjusting the volume across the lash line to create a fuller effect 4. The lashes are applied with specialist adhesive, which is thinner but strong enough to bond the groups of lashes without clumping. 5. Advise the client to steer clear of oil-based products, which can affect the glue. That way they will require fewer in-fills. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 brows and lashes 24 BROWS The brief As clients start to see the first signs of ageing on their skin, they will also notice their brow hair thinning. We gave brow specialist Chelsea Beautique the brief of creating an age-defying look that will lift the face but is also easy to maintain. Treatment advice: Creating the look: A well-defined brow can frame a client’s face and take years off their look, advises Chelsea Beautique’s Rosemarie Saxon. “The solution really is to use a brow powder that adheres to both the hair and skin and allows you to fill in patchy spots and make the arch look thicker.” She adds, “Using the Chelsea brow stencil kit is ideal, as clients can purchase the kit at retail and easily recreate the shape you’ve created. Because the powder is smudge-free and water resistant brows will stay in shape all day long.” 1. Ensure skin is dry and free from oils, cream and make-up. 2. Choose the stencil that is most suited to the clients Before face. For example, round face shapes will find a higher arch more flattering, while long faces can be balanced by a flatter brow. 3. Use the Duo Applicator Brush, lightly apply the powder in gentle back and forth strokes, filling the entire arch. An additional layer can be added for a bolder brow. The powder will set within a few minutes. 4. Use tweezers to pluck around the brow to maintain the shape. 5. Advise clients to remove the powder using oil-based products. After LASHES The brief With more disposable income but less time on their hands, due to work and family commitments, clients of this age group are looking for lashes that give long-term results with little maintenance. As women approach their 40s, hair tends to thin. We asked Novalash which techniques would be most suitable to achieve a sophisticated but low maintenance lash look. Treatment advice: Creating the look: Novalash recommends that salons focus on thickness and definition rather than length, because longer, more dramatic looks require more maintenance. The NovaLash technique is perfect for this type of client because it gives the look of wearing eyeliner, which instantly rejuvenates and brightens the face. If done properly, it will actually eliminate the need for eye make-up altogether. 1. Before After Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 Select a minimum of three lengths that are about 25 per cent longer than the client’s own natural lashes. For this look we used 8mm-14mm as the model had long natural lashes. We recommend a box of Novaminx in B Curl (pictured). 2. Bond extensions to suit the client’s natural lash cycle, making sure short extensions are placed only on short natural lashes, long-to-long and so on. This will ensure lashes look natural as they shed while making the set last longer. 3. During the time allotted, apply all lengths of lashes but focus on using the shortest extensions across the entire lash line. On the model pictured we used more 8mms than any other lash. Using mainly short extensions in a full set creates a thick, dark lash line. 4. In the last 15 to 20 minutes, bond any remaining short natural lashes to boost the “eyeliner effect” even more. 5. The technique uses NovaLash’s Platinum Bond adhesive so the client should only need to return every four weeks for infills. professionalbeauty.ae BROWS The brief As well as thinning, eyebrow hair can start to grey and become more unruly as women age. The more mature client may have also spent a lifetime over plucking, so we asked Brow by Mii how to treat a client who has little hair left. Treatment advice: Creating the look: Brow by Mii educator Nicola Wakeling says establishing a regrowth programme is key. “During the treatment consultation, carefully measure the brows to decide the ideal shape. Hair can gradually lose pigment as we age, so tinting will make a huge impact, enhancing brows and adding a frame back to the face. Look to match the tint colour to the undertone of hair, which will normally be cooler in this age bracket.” She adds, “When it comes to shaping, avoid sharp lines. If you want to add definition, focus on the base line of brow, keeping the top line soft.” 1. Consultation is vital. Measure the brows then create a preview of the look using make-up products. You can then agree on an achievable look your client is comfortable with. 2. Tinting is the next stage, to add a frame back to the client’s face. Depending on their natural brows, tinting fine, downy hairs and even the skin may be beneficial. 3. Decide whether waxing is necessary. If so, it may be predominantly downy hairs that you need to remove at this stage. 4. Tweeze and trim to tidy the new shape. Coarse hairs may need to be trimmed or sometimes plucked, to give uniformity to the brow. 5. Finish the brow with make-up. This has two benefits – the client leaves feeling confident with her brows, and it gives you the opportunity to show the client how to maintain her look between treatments and retail product. LASHES The brief There’s a misconception that if your client is older, a natural look is the only way to go. However, opening the eyes to give a wide-awake, more youthful appearance is actually what the over-50s client is demanding, according the lash brands. We tasked Nouveau Lashes with creating a lash look that would give a youthful appearance with its LVL treatment. Creating the look: Bridgette Softley, co-director of Nouveau Lashes, says that for many ladies in their 50s and beyond, hair and lashes have started to thin and become sparse so, “anything too thick or heavy can have an ageing effect, because it could cause the eyes to look laterally cantered and droopy”. Codirector Karen Betts adds, “Most ladies in their 50s want the illusion of more youthful eyes, so LVL by Nouveau Lashes would be a great choice as it's maintenance free and cares for the natural lashes while still making them more defined and opening the eyes up. For fine lashes the treatment products should be left on for the minimum time.” 1. Before After An LVL treatment Treatment advice: Carry out a consultation to establish the client’s desired outcome. 2. Study the client’s eye shape to determine which size shield to use. 3. Prepare the client’s lashes and cleanse the eye to ensure the natural lashes are ready for the treatment. 4. Apply the LVL formula. This semi-permanent lash treatment enhances the natural lashes by straightening rather than curling. The treatment takes 30 to 45 minutes, depending on length and quality of the natural lashes, and lasts six to eight weeks. 5. Advise clients on aftercare products such as the LVL conditioning treatment for post-treatment use. Contacts NovaLash call Madi +971 4 338 27 73 / Nouveau Lashes LVL call Aspire Beauty +971 4 813 51 10 / Lash Perfect GCC call +971 4 344 22 71 / Chelsea Boutique / call Balegro Cosmetics +971 2 447 56 12 / Mii + 44 161 980 23 33 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 brows and lashes professionalbeauty.ae 26 Eye opener David Go'shay managing director and chief executive office of Go'shay Trading and RevitaLash UAE, explains the benefits of lash and brow serums for you and your clients Tell us about Go’shay Trading thinning of lashes. Sometimes excessive use of mascara and I am a British-born Palestinian who has been in Dubai for three other eye make-up also results in the thinning of eyelashes. One years, distributing the RevitaLash Advanced Eyelash Conditioner. way to bring back the lost natural beauty is by using a nourishing The product is a worldwide favourite with celebrities such as product combining the natural plant extracts with powerful among celebrities as Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Love Hewitt and peptides, which are essential to support the renewal and growth Courtney Cox to name but a few. process of lashes. RevitaLash fortifies the lashes with the blend of peptides and botanicals and also stops the breakage of lashes as What products do you offer for brows and lashes? well as protecting them from any environmental and physical Our most prominent product is RevitaLash Advanced Eyelash of the lashes. damage. Regular use of this product ensures the speedy growth Conditioner, which has been rated the number one eyelash Cosmopolitan and Allure magazine in 2014. RevitaLash enhances When can users expect to see results and how long do results last? the natural lashes in just a few weeks. Using it is simple – apply Results vary by individual and can take between 4-8 weeks to see once every night to your upper lashes and clients will see an the impact of RevitaLash on your lashes. In clinical studies 97 per amazing improvement and result in just a few weeks. RevitaBrow cent reported changes in eyelash appearance in three weeks. is a true must-have product too. Eyebrows are undoubtedly Once your client has achieved the desired appearance, they can among the most important facial features because of their ability continue with a maintenance regime of using RevitaLash two to to frame the face, enhance or create the illusion of facial three times per week to maintain the fabulous look of youthful symmetry, and offer an overall polished look. RevitaBrow is also beautiful lashes. conditioner in the world just recently! It won awards in an Allure 2013 and 2014 beauty award winner and it does a truly amazing job of conditioning and thickening and leaves the eyebrows softer, fuller and more beautiful. Can RevitaLash be retailed to my clients who have eyelash extensions? Of course! RevitaLash is water-based and will have no negative What sets RevitaLash competition? apart from the effects on false lashes or eyelash extensions. strong, loyal fan base including a long list of celebrities. It utilises a Can we expect any more products to be added to the portfolio? proven blend of functional cosmetic ingredients including In powerful peptides and botanicals to nourish the eyelashes. introduced, it swept the marketplace and the RevitaLash Advanced Eyelash Conditioner is now the global industry, creating a whole new category of leader in premium cosmetic eyelash enhancement products with functional cosmetic eyelash beauty products. a track record for safety and satisfaction. One tube of the full size Since then the company has introduced (3.5 ml) of RevitaLash Advanced costs just AED 550 and lasts RevitaLash approximately six months. Volumizing Mascara, Volumizing Primer and As one of the original eyelash conditioners, RevitaLash has a 2006, when RevitaLash Advanced, was first RevitaBrow, Hair by RevitaLash and the The Hi-Def Brow Who is RevitaLash suitable for? Gel recently launched. I can't say anything yet Some women are born with thin and fragile lashes, but some are but you can expect more innovative products born with beautiful lashes but lack of care and ageing may lead to to come in the future! Call Go’shay Trading +971 5 6115 87 27 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 Brows Counter Display A Harvey Nichols Beauty-B est-Sell er PREMIUM SERVICE DEMANDS PREMIUM PRODUCTS - Introducing Chelsea Beautique, LONDON’S LEADING LUXURY BRAND in eyebrow makeup. This amazing eyebrow kit will give your clients PERFECTLY PRECISE BROWS IN SECONDS AND THEY WON’T SMUDGE NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU MIGHT SWEAT! This Harvey Nichols Beauty-Best-Seller is now available to Salons & Spas and can be used either as a professional service or to boost your retail sales. Say Goodbye to thin, sparse and crooked eyebrows. Nothing lifts and frames a face as beautifully (or as super quick), as our Chelsea Brows. This ultimate Brow-Shaping Kit will change your client’s life for ever! Super glamorous eyebrows in seconds SMUDGE PROOF – WATER RESISTANT – PERFECT SHAPE DISPLAY INCLUDES 1 x Duo Applicator Brush (tester) combinations) 1 x Tweezers (tester) 7 x Brow Powders (testers) Brochures 1 x Stencil Set (tester) 20 x Gift Bags T: +971.2.447.5612 Total Retail Value of AED 4,500 SALON PRICE AED 2,490 AFTER BEFORE 18 x Brow Kits (choice of powder shade includes free display and testers www.chelseabeautique.com [email protected] www.provocmakeup.com Semi-Permanent Make-up Pencils Water proof Long Lasting Formula Intense Colors Use Provoc Sharpener Remove with Water Proof Make-Up Remover business tips professionalbeauty.ae 31 Ask the experts Our experts from around the globe answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa What is the best approach for treating a client with milia and are there any contraindications we should be aware of? M ilia are little white cysts filled with keratin that can afflict your skin at any age, but are mostly seen in babies. Most adults who suffer with milia get them because their skin has not been properly exfoliated, cleansed and regularly taken care of. In some cases, milia will disappear without treatment. In fact, when babies have milia, most doctors will not recommend any special treatments – just to wash the baby’s skin with warm water and pat it dry with a soft towel every day. Milia are completely harmless. They pose no threat to your client and they are not dangerous, just a cosmetic problem or annoyance. Milia can occur anywhere on the body, but they are usually found around the eye area where the skin is thin and commonly seen around the cheeks, nose, forehead and chest. The problem is that milia grow underneath the skin so cannot be removed by usual extraction methods. However, a beauty therapist can remove milia with a little hollow needle to control the production of sebum in the skin. There are no contraindications, but the removal process must be hygienic and after removal, clients should embark on a maintenance programme. This should involve ceasing using oily substances on the area, the use of a good exfoliant product to remove dead skins cells, regular cleansing with warm water and moisturising with vitamin A and alpha hydroxi acids. Clients should also avoid heavy make-up and cosmetic creams, which block pores, and avoid sun exposure or direct sunlight as much as possible, or use a gentle oil free sunblock and take vitamin B supplements. It is important that the client does not try to scratch milia away as this may irritate skin and even damage or scar it. Milia treatment depends on how serious or severe the problem is. For instance, gauge whether it is normal or mild milia (small and often not obviously seen), secondary or inflamed milia or milia vulgaris which is more red and sensitive. For mild milia, the beauty therapist can remove and conduct microdermabrasion that removes the topmost layers of the affected skin or use basic AHA peels. For secondary milia you can also conduct mild microdermabrasion. For milia vulgaris, it should be controlled by ultrasound or LED light. In some cases where the milia is severely red and inflamed, widespread and persistent, it shouldn’t be touched by beauticians; in this case it is best to seek a medical opinion in order to avoid further infections. Mania El Baba PhD is the managing director of Specialized Beauty, a leading supplier of biomedical, aesthetic and fitness equipment and beauty and cosmeceutical products with branches in Lebanon and the UAE. She is certified in medical aesthetics and also owns several beauty centres in Lebanon and the UAE. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 business tips professionalbeauty.ae 33 I’m keen to boost my revenue this year, but would like to do this based on the existing treatments we already offer in the salon. How would you recommend I go about doing this? T he good news is, using your existing clients, your present staff and the same premises, you can not only increase your profit and your clients’ loyalty but also motivate your staff to grow professionally. How is this possible? By adding enhanced treatments and services to your menu! I achieved this within my salon and also helped to implement similar projects across other beauty salons around the UAE, and I can provide some step by step tips on how to roll out this strategy. Firstly, check the reports in your salon’s software management programme to identify your most popular service. In my case, I was surprised to discover the nail department was selling on a daily basis more manicures and pedicures than any other service, including nail extensions and nail art. Once you’ve identified your key service, find out what it is about this service that appeals to your clients. I did this through survey cards, and one of the most prominent comments was “quick and properly done”. With this in mind, I discounted the idea of introducing a spa manicure or pedicure and instead focused on how I could achieve better and faster nail treatments. As a result I decided to implement the use of a machine manicure and machine pedicure. It’s a very fast service, similar in many ways to a basic manicure and pedicure, but with many additional advantages, including longer lasting results and increased hygiene levels. When it comes to rolling out any new services, start with your loyal clients first and reward their loyalty with a special offer. When I launched the machine manicures and pedicures for one month we offered them to every client who came for a regular service and at the same price as the regular service. By doing this you not only reward and show your appreciation of your regular clients, but it also affords your staff an opportunity to demonstrate everything they have learned from their training. Additionally, it also gives you a platform to promote your new service without the costly expense of advertising. We found that following the one-month trial, most of the clients subsequently requested the machine-based treatments, even though the price was double that of a regular manicure or pedicure. Education is also critical to the roll out of any new service and not just for those who will be carrying out the treatments, but also to the other staff in the salon – hair stylists, for instance – who can then introduce it to their clients, while the reception staff need to be able to communicate the new service over the phone in a clear and correct manner. If you do decide to advertise your new services, do so wisely. When I carried out my survey, I found out that 90 per cent of my clients came to my salon due to word of mouth. So when it came to promoting our new service I decided the most affordable and effective platform was social media. Many of our clients are connected to us on different social networks and like to receive news and offers this way, so I simply placed the information about the new advanced treatment on social media. Galina Spierling is the general manager at Beauty Profit Supply Trading LLC and founder of Galina's Beauty Salon in Dubai. She has been working in the beauty industry since 1995. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 business tips professionalbeauty.ae 35 What is the difference between taking a holistic aromatherapy course and undertaking this as part of a general beauty course? And what areas should I expect to cover in a holistic aromatherapy course? T here is a vast difference between taking up a profession in one specific field and wanting to become an all-rounder. Comparing a holistic aromatherapy course as part of a general beauty course is not correct and unprofessional in the field of clinical aromatherapy. Note that aromatherapy is an art and a science, it is the study of essential oils extracted from herbs, plants, fruits, flowers, bark, stems, roots, etc, and is an alternative therapy and cannot be related in any way to a general beauty course. Some beauty courses include aromatherapy in their regime as most products contain essential oils anyway, however they are only touching the surface of what is huge scientific research and a therapy that has been used for 5,000 years. To study holistic aromatherapy is not an easy task. In the IFPA curriculum which we teach there is 800+ hours of training, plus the therapist has to do her case studies which also play a large role in their overall understanding of this art. In aromatherapy, one has to learn the chemical constituents of the oils, which will enable the students to become master blenders. Basically at the end of the course the student will be qualified in using 66 essential oils and 15 base oils and four herb/macerated oils. This will allow them to work with almost any medical condition a client may come in with. Becoming a holistic aromatherapist also requires empathy and compassion. Aromatherapy is a very vast field and each graduate will specialise in certain fields, some go into dermatology, emotional issues, treating musculoskeletal issues, genealogical conditions and much more. In an IFPA curriculum you cover anatomy/ physiology/pathology, professional development and business awareness, holistic massage theory, practical, aromatherapy theory and oractical, plus the student needs to complete 120 hours of case studies. All this information can be found on our website www.theholisticinstitute.org. PB Sunita Teckchand is the principal tutor and owner of Essensuals Holistic Training Institute. She has many qualifications including those of clinical aromatherapist – APA, MIFPA, clinical reflexologist – MIFPR and holistic massage practitioner and trainer. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 professionalbeauty.ae world spa & wellness awards 2015 37 Winning ways We reveal the World Spa and Wellness Award winners from the Middle Eastern categories At a glittering black tie reception and dinner at The Brewery in the City of London, UK, the winners of the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2015 were unveiled. With spa professionals from across the globe gathering at the event to hear the exciting results, the evening provided the perfect platform to celebrate and reflect upon the achievements of the international spa sector. Organised by the Professional Beauty Group in the UK, the awards follow a multi-layered judging process, which included both official and mystery shopper visits to the short-listed finalists. Winners in this year’s Middle East categories were Remède Spa at the St Regis, Abu Dhabi, UAE, which scooped the Hotel Spa of the Year award and the Banyan Tree Al Wadi, Ras al Khaimah, UAE, which won the Resort Spa of the Year for the Middle East and Africa. Before turning the page to read more about the winners and finalists, discover just what it takes to be a winner, with the following advice from the judges of the World Spa & Wellness Awards. Tips for success 1) THE BIG PICTURE: A guest’s spa experience isn’t simply about the treatment; it begins the moment they set foot in your property and should hopefully end long after they leave. 2) VISION: Whether the inspiration or ethos for the property is Asian, Indian, European or Middle Eastern, imbue its feel throughout – from décor and staff knowledge to treatments and retail. This makes for a warm and lasting impression. 3) ATTENTION TO DETAIL: Simple things like giving guests a tour around the facilities go a long way to making them feel comfortable. They shouldn't have to think, just relax throughout the whole experience and spas should remember this in everything they do. 4) COMFORT: From temperature levels and lighting to privacy and even hydration, ensure your guests feel at ease at all times. 5) KNOWLEDGE: It’s essential for therapists to know their products, to be attentive to clients’ needs and to be able to tailor treatments to meet those needs. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR IN UAE VIVANDI TRADING L.L.C. Suite 404, Tower B2, Gulf Towers, Oud Metha Road, PO Box 32911, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 335 3336, Fax: +971 4 334 7070, Email: [email protected] www.vivandi.ae professionalbeauty.ae world spa & wellness awards 2015 39 Hotel Spa of the Year – Middle East WINNER: Remède Spa at the St Regis Abu Dhabi, UAE “This is our first Remède Spa in the United Arab Emirates and for it to be recognised a year after opening in a market with many stunning and extraordinary spas is a tremendous honour,” A relative newcomer on the UAE spa scene, Remède Spa opened its doors towards the end of 2013, and has quickly cemented its position at the forefront of the regional spa industry. The light, airy and inviting spa stretches across an impressive 3,200 square metres and features 11 treatment rooms, as well as a sea facing relaxation lounge. Its treatment menu includes trademark Remède therapies, established Elemis treatments and locally inspired rituals too. The award judges were particularly impressed by the therapists’ knowledge, intuitive nature and ability to tailor treatments to the client’s needs. The cohesive and stylish décor scheme also struck a positive note with judges. Jeff Matthews, president of Steiner Spa Consulting FINALISTS Mandara Spa at The H Hotel Dubai, UAE Talise Spa at Burj Al Arab, Dubai, UAE Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont The Palm, Dubai, UAE The Indonesian inspiration for this spa is evident the moment you arrive; beautifully and cleverly designed, the spa encompasses 10 treatment rooms including a Thai massage room, two relaxation lounges, steam room, sauna and Jacuzzi. The treatment menu comprises of rituals from Elemis and Mandara, together with a specially created locally inspired range using Le Sens De Marrakech. Judges praised the spa’s staff and the well-executed vision for the property. Split over two levels and towering 150 metres above the Arabian Gulf, the Talise Spa in the iconic Burj Al Arab made an immediate impression with the judges thanks to its visually stunning location. The spa’s treatment menu incorporates rituals from leading brands: La Prairie, Sundari and Thémaé, and its facilities include stunning indoor infinity pools, Jacuzzis, saunas, steam rooms and plunge pools. The spa draws inspiration from its unique location on The Palm and features 13 individual spa suites, including two couples’ rooms, relaxation lounges, steam rooms, saunas and yoga and fitness areas, the spa is well-appointed and a great space for relaxing. Brands used within the property include Kerstin Florian and Willow Stream Reviving spa products. The staff, treatments and food were among the high points for the judges. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 professionalbeauty.ae world spa & wellness awards 2015 41 Resort Spa of the Year – Middle East & Africa WINNER: Banyan Tree Spa Al Wadi, Ras al-Khaimah, UAE Retaining its title as Resort Spa of the Year, the Banyan Tree Spa Al Wadi has created a unique and holistic spa environment that unites its tranquil surroundings in Wadi Khadela with the Asian heritage of the Banyan Tree brand. Herbs, oils and spices are the cornerstone ingredients for many of its rituals, which range from massages, scrubs and facials to Ayurvedic therapies, hand and foot treatments and a unique hydrothermal Rainforest experience. When it came to the judges’ inspections, the spa’s therapists left a strong impression with their attentive and instinctive responses and impeccable knowledge and technique. Confidence with the therapists was easily established and the judges were able to fully enjoy their truly bespoke treatments. “Achieving the Resort Spa of the Year, Middle East and Africa award at the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2015 is a valuable testament to Banyan Tree Spa Al Wadi’s service excellence as we continue to raise the bar and strengthen our brand presence in the global spa scene,” Ms Kanruethai Roongruang, vice president/ executive director of spa operations for Banyan Tree Spa & Gallery FINALISTS Emirates Palace Spa, Abu Dhabi, UAE ShuiQi Spa & Fitness at Atlantis the Palm Dubai, UAE Talise Spa at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, UAE Emirates Palace Spa has carefully combined Middle Eastern inspiration with Asian style in a spa that is home to an array of exciting treatment experiences. Chief among these is its Moroccan-style Hammam; but the spa also boasts facilities including beach spa cabanas, couples’ suites, a Gentleman’s Tonic grooming salon and a pedicure and manicure studio by Bastien Gonzalez. Judges complemented the spa on the staff’s knowledge and brand awareness. With two storeys and an expansive 26,000 sq. ft, ShuiQi Spa and Fitness boasts a wealth of wonderful facilities. The spacious property includes 27 treatment rooms, including a Royal Spa Suite, a men’s grooming area, ladies’ salon, a fitness centre and a Medi Spa. Its treatment menu is equally comprehensive with Shiseido, ESPA, Aromatherapy Associates, Margy’s Monte Carlo and Bastien Gonzalez all playing a part in the spa’s rituals. Talise Spa features an impressive 26 spa suites, including two couples’ suites, additional facilities include beach cabanas, saunas (including an infra-red one) and steam rooms, plunge pools and relaxation areas. There is also a gym and yoga studio. The extensive treatment menu incorporates massages, facials and detox packages as well as rituals such as the Shiffa 24-carat Gold Hammam and AlphaSphere, a sensory treatment designed to inspire, relax and rejuvenate. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 makeover professionalbeauty.ae 44 Totally made up Professional Beauty’s editor Fiona Vlemmiks and marketing manager Nicki Wyatt are transformed by the experts at Madi International W hen we were invited by Madi International to have a full on makeover we didn’t hesitate to accept. We spent the day at Madi’s main Dubai showroom, which also has a state-of-the-art training centre, in the capable hands of Madi’s top trainers, who worked on our hair, nails, eyelashes and make-up. Read on to see how they created our new looks. Fiona How they created the look Before After Fiona’s comments I loved my new shiny new hair colour! I was very impressed with the Goldwell colours as my hair has a tendency to turn brassy, but now the ends of my locks are a cool light brown and have remained so, without a hint of orange almost three weeks after the makeover. I found the eyelash application a little uncomfortable but I was so pleased with the final results – I’ve hardly had to wear make-up since and my lashes still look great, they have totally transformed my face. My nail art was very pretty and my make-up looked very professional. I rarely ever wear foundation so I loved the flawless skin look that was created for me. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 My hair colour was refreshed and grey covered using Goldwell’s Topchic Permanent 5NBP Topchic on the roots, which promises 100 per cent grey coverage. Goldwell’s 8SB + 7MB Colorance demi permanent was used to create the ombre look. Amali Abdel Hadi, professional educator for Goldwell explained that the cool colour in the ends of my hair would last 82 per cent longer because of the product’s cool protect technology. My hair was washed and conditioned with Goldwell’s Dual Senses Color Rich Range Shampoo and 60 Conditioning Second Treatment. Next my nails were painted with the on-trend purple polish, LCN Crazy Blueberry and nail art was drawn on my ring fingers. LCN base coat and top coat were used. The NovaLash Lash Extensions were applied which gave added length and thickness to my natural eyelashes, and an alternative to the daily use of mascara. Each extension was added to my natural lash using medical-grade adhesive and the process took around two hours. The final touch was a make-up application with Cinema Secret professional make-up, to provide a cover girl finish. makeover professionalbeauty.ae 45 Nicki Before After How they created the look Nicki’s hair colour was created using a full head of highlights with Silklift + 20 volume, 6 per cent and 10P Topchic Care, Dual Senses blonde highlights. Her hair was also given a 60 second treatment using Goldwell products to ensure optimum condition. A full set of Novalash, black eyelash extensions were applied and Nicki opted for the LCN green polish O-thentic and grey polish High Maintenance as well as some gorgeous nail art. LCN basecoat and topcoat were also used. Nicki had a full make up applied with Cinema Secrets products from foundation to blush, eye make-up and full on red lipstick, set in place with a primer. The end result was red-carpet glamour! Nicki’s comments I absolutely loved my makeover experience! I particularly love my haircut and colour. The ashy, natural look was just what I wanted and the Goldwell colour hasn't dulled in the slightest. I was skeptical when Amali Abdel Hadi, professional educator for Goldwell suggested putting layers in my hair but they worked really well and gave it muchneeded volume! My eyelashes look so natural that I have had compliments from people who have thought that they are my own. Overall it was fantastic to see the Madi brands in action and really come to life. The experts Amali Abdel Hadi, professional educator for Goldwell Jovita Buinickaite, technical trainer for LCN Fadi Kordab, professional educator for Goldwell Suzana Younsi, technical trainer for LCN and Cinema Secret Call Madi International on +971 4 338 27 73 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 nail report professionalbeauty.ae 47 Catwalk claws Inspired by New York fashion week, Bio Sculpture designs nail creations set to complement the hottest fashions for fall 2015 animal print Create the look with Bio bubbles Shimmer Look no.1 Look Create the look .2 with Ombre Graduation no Step by Step 1. Select two different Colour Gels of your choice. 2. Apply a Bio Sculpture Base Gel layer. Cure. 3. Apply two layers of the lighter Colour Gel. Cure. 4. Follow with a third layer using the darker Colour Gel (fairly thin layer). Do NOT cure. 5. Place small dots of Soft Gel onto the wet Colour Gel layer, using the tip of the Upper Arch Brush. Cure. Wait for the gel on the tip of your brush to Step by Step form a droplet, then place it. Work from an image of reptile skin as guidance to where smaller or 1. Select different Colour Gels of your choice. larger droplets should go. 2. Apply a Bio Sculpture Base Gel layer. Cure. 6. Apply the appropriate Strengthening Gel to seal the nail art. 3. Follow with two layers of Colour Gel. 7. Cure. Dual Cleanse and Refine. 4. Apply a layer of a different Colour Gel to either the 8. Apply Gloss Gel for shine. Cure. free edge, or the cuticle area, or sides of the nail. Tip! To create dual coloured bubbles, dot down tiny Colour Gel droplets into the centre of each or use some of the Soft Gel dots before curing. Bubble sizes can differ, depending on the amount of gel dotted down. Experiment with different patterns to achieve interesting shapes and textures. Cure each layer. Do NOT cure. 5. Use the number four flat or six round brush, or a soft sponge to blend the Colour Gel. Cure. 6. Repeat step four and five with a different Colour Gel until the desired effect is achieved. Cure. 7. Apply the appropriate Strengthening Gel to seal the nail art. 8. Cure. Dual Cleanse and Refine. 9. Apply Gloss Gel for shine. Cure. Tip! For a soft gradation effect, use a soft sponge. For a rougher effect, use a brush. Contact Nail looks created by Bio Sculpture. To learn more about the brand call +971 4 341 48 20/ +971 50 527 23 97 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 Love your Nails, Naturally # 1 Dry Fast Top Coat in the World Exclusively Distributed by Beauty Point Trading LLC, Dubai, UAE. T: +971 50 553 4919 | T: +971 4 380 4555 PAMCO MENA, Regional T: +961 3 292 429 hair expert professionalbeauty.ae 49 The Hair DOCTOR Dr Mike Ryan discusses the causes of female pattern hair thinning and how they may affect your client T he majority of women presenting with pattern hair thinning show (in my opinion), acquired pattern alopecia due to the cascading affects of metabolic, hormonal and sometimes nutritional disturbance within a number of body systems. These women may be of any age and have a common history of lethargy, dry skin, menstrual difficulties, pre-menstrual mood disorders, weight gain, diminished libido, sleep disturbance or headaches. Their thyroid function testing and/or salivary hormone profiles (SHP) will often be imbalanced; with elevated testosterone (TT) and/or DHEA – the adrenal gland endeavoring to stimulate thyroid function. Genetic hair thinning in women usually occurs pre or post menopause, but can also be present in younger women with high follicle sensitivity. Menopause almost always affects the hair on the scalp and many females think at this time that they have female pattern loss (FPL). Fifty is the average age for menopause, but changes to the hair can begin long before, and is one reason why hair thinning during menopause is difficult to counteract. Nobody over 40 has the same volume of hair they had in their twenties, but menopause is an extra and accelerating cause. The pattern of menopausal hair thinning is similar to the early stages of male pattern hair loss. Hair has deep psychological meaning. Both menopause and loss of hair are often associated with loss of femininity and attractiveness Psychological impact Hormonal fluctuations during menopause are often the most distressing. From a psychological viewpoint, it is very common for a woman to scrutinise herself in the mirror more closely, and particular attention might be paid to hair. Hair has deep psychological meaning. Both menopause and loss of hair are often associated with loss of femininity and attractiveness. These thoughts and changes can all feed into each other, and it becomes a vicious and demoralising cycle. Rest assured, though, it is very rare for a woman to go bald. And things can be done to get the best out of the hair during this stressful time. Oestrogens and the hairduring menopause The basis for changes during menopause is a decrease in oestrogen. Oestrogens affect the menstrual menopause and may mean the hair won’t grow as long as before. This is because oestrogens keep the hair in the growing phase, and the longer the growing phase, the longer hair can grow. Reduced oestrogen levels cause the hair’s growth cycle to shorten and mean that the hair sheds before it reaches the length that it used to grow to. Androgens (male hormones) and the hair during menopause Androgens are male hormones. They are found in women as well as men, but to a lesser degree. Menopause causes androgen levels to increase, which can in turn trigger thinning of the hair on your scalp and can also cause extra facial and body hair. Androgens do not necessarily decrease the number of scalp hairs, but reduce the diameter and length. The result is a loss of volume or body. The hair may not be falling out more, or failing to grow back - but the replacement hairs are weaker and finer. Dr Mike Ryan is a trichologist working exclusively in Vivandi’s HairSpa, the leading hair restoration centre in Dubai which specialises in effective, non-surgical hair loss treatments. Vivandi also supplies hair loss products for professional use. For more information visit www.hairspa.ae or www.vivandi.ae If you have a question for Dr Mike, please email [email protected] Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 hair colour professionalbeauty.ae 51 Colour confidence From metallic and violet to copper and caramel – this season’s hair colours have something for all L'Oréal Red hot Blonde is a colour that never goes out of fashion – and this season’s hottest blonde styles seem to stretch from one extreme to the other. For those clients keen to make an impact with their hair colour – ultra blonde or platinum is the look to recommend; alternatively for a more relaxed and subtle style, a natural sun-kissed, beachy blonde (as seen on our covergirl, right) is the way to go. Aloxxi, Goldwell and L’Oréal also highlight strawberry blonde, caramel, ash blonde and golden tones as topical trends for this colour. Stylists should be on red alert right now as this bold colour is hugely on trend. Brands including Aloxxi, Goldwell, L’Oréal and TIGI have all unveiled a portfolio of beautiful shades of red that span from copper to auburn. From electrifying violet hues and striking cherry and fire reds to warmer mahogany and maroon tones – there’s never been a better time to make a style statement with red locks. The depth and variety available within the red colour spectrum also ensures that there will be a look to suit each of your clients. TIGI has unveiled a line of creative, gloss red colour shades that range from bold copper through to burgundy. Four demi-permanent gloss shades are ammonia-free and great for refreshing previously coloured hair. The two permanent creative shades, meanwhile, offer intense results and up to 100 per cent coverage, resulting in striking hair colour. Goldilocks Goldwell Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 KEVIN.MURPHY SULPHATE FREE. PARABEN FREE. CRUELTY FREE. KEVIN.MURPHY SMOOTH.AGAIN IMMORTELLE & BAOBAB INFUSED LEAVE-IN SMOOTHING AND STYLE CONTROL TREATMENT. DELIVERS SMOOTHNESS, MOISTURE, REPAIR AND HEAT PROTECTION. Kevin Murphy Middle East To become a KEVIN.MURPHY stockist and capitalise on the excellent retailing opportunities, please contact +971 4 341 4820 / +971 50 527 2397 / [email protected] www.kevinmurphy.com.au hair colour professionalbeauty.ae 53 When it comes to dark hair the emphasis is on accents. The overall colour remains strong, shiny and a block colour - raven-haired or sheer black - but is highlighted with shimmering metallic or silver tones. Davines’s Shine Collection encapsulates this theme, which it describes as “a little 90s inspired but with futuristic iridescent colours”. Give classically strong styles a contemporary, cutting-edge lift with eye-catching violet, deep purple and silver highlights and clients will leave with a truly on-trend style. Davines The dark side Glossy brunette makes for a strikingly elegant look, and according to Goldwell that brunette tone can range from chocolate to smoky and from dark to light. But if you’ve got a brunette client that wants to stand out from the crowd Aloxxi picks out a look that combines a gold violet brunette colour with caramel highlights as a must-try (see right). Goldwell Hot chocolates Aloxxi Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 A New Era of All Natural Skin Brightening Treatments USA’s NO.1 Brightening Cream A Breakthrough in Natural Skin Care Blemish Brightening Cream Intimate Brightening Cream Scar Brightening & Repair Cream areas such as Genitals, Areolas, Surgical Scars, Acne Scars, Burn effectively lighten many different effectively lighten one’s sensitive Sunspots, Hyperpigmentation, Anus, Knees and Elbows as well as types of skin discoloration including Melasma, Dark Spots and Birthmarks. MENA Region Sole Agent under Arms. improve the appearance of Post- Scars, Caesareans Section Scars, & Traumatic Scars. Burj Khalifa Area • Business Bay • Prism Tower • Office 1306 • T: +971 4 438 7747 • Dubai, UAE E: [email protected] • www.biofade-me.com • biofade-me • biofademe hair colour professionalbeauty.ae 55 Product Picks When it comes to colouring clients' hair - here's a few products for home or salon use that can enhance, boost and intensify the depth and length of time of colour lasts. Davines NouNou Shampoo & Conditioner Designed to nourish and protect hair, as well as enhance shine, the shampoo contains chestnut milk, hydrocreatine and rice proteins. The conditioner is also designed to moisturise and is great for highlighted hair, as well as dry or damaged locks. Apply to towel dried hair for 5-10 minutes before rinsing and the end result will be soft, silky h a i r. Goldwell Topchic Permanent Hair Colour This hair colour offers even, 100 per cent grey coverage, together with gentleness and durability. With patented Intralipid integrated into the lotion too, it ensures a smooth, sleek finish to coloured hair. After applying Topchic, follow with Goldwell’s Dualsenses line to lock in the colour and prevent fade. Aloxxi ColourPrime and ColourLock As their names indicate these products are designed for use before and after the colour process to prepare and ultimately enhance the appearance of coloured hair. Colour Prime Pre-Colour Treatment is a gentle herbal cleanser that desensitises the scalp and extends colour, while Colour Lock Post Colour Finisher is a botanically enriched product that reduces the hair’s pH and closes the cuticle to ensure longer lasting, richer colour. Contacts: Aloxxi +971 50 596 99 82 Goldwell +971 4 338 27 73 L’Oréal +971 5 6605 50 79 TIGI +971 4 447 02 90 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 interview professionalbeauty.ae 57 Behind the scenes With clients such as the Jumeirah group and Anantara, Peter Dowling of House of Maria Dowling explains how he creates products to give spas the competitive edge What is House of Maria Dowling’s (HOMD) core business? Can you mention some of your leading hotel chain clients? HOMD was established in 2005 and is the result of a series of We work with Anantara, Jumeirah, the Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton unique collaborations with some of the world’s leading creators and Hyatt to name but a few. The spa world looks for uniqueness of visionary beauty and grooming products for the spa and room and we help our clients create their own identity through our amenities sectors. Together with our Bangkok-based business products. So when a spa guest reads through the treatment partner, Puri Alchemy, we produce (within our own laboratories) menu you will never see a reference to us, it’s all about the spa’s and supply professional, luxury products to many of the world's own brand. premium spa facilities and guest rooms. Can you describe in more detail the specific services that HOMD offers? We are a one-stop shop for the sourcing and creating of professional spa products. Puri Alchemy is our only source for professional spa products and everything we produce is in-house. As we have an office in Dubai, we can meet with clients in the "The spa world looks for uniqueness and we help ourclients create their own identity through our products” Middle East, understand their requirements, and then to take this information back to our Bangkok team and create. There are more than 280 people involved in our company, including We also have buyers based in the Thai market, which can source Walk us through your Signature Treatment and Bespoke Menu service. specific items for us if clients require this service. It starts with a conversation which is, the majority of the time, research and development teams, designers and our Dubai team. instigated by the client. We never try to second-guess the market by creating formulations. Mostly our clients are either opening a new project or looking to introduce a new treatment. Signature treatments and formulation of products for these are normally something specific to a brand or location. In some cases clients will have ingredient formulations in mind but if not, we can make suggestions. This information is then passed Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 Grab the Introductory Offers! . PERRON RIGOT HAS BEEN THE LEADING WAX EXPERT FOR OVER 70 YEARS. Make an appointment today for product demonstration with your Cirépil by Perron Rigot professional and get prepared to help your salon turn waxing into a very lucrative activity. Contact Espai Beauty on +971 50 527 2397 / +971 4 34 14820 or [email protected] interview professionalbeauty.ae Peter and Maria Dowling with the HOMD team. 59 to our research and development team in Bangkok who well together and some can be costly. Our research and Why is it important for today’s spas to offer more bespoke and unique treatments? development team makes samples focusing mainly on the I think spas always have looked to be unique, the service we offer essential oil or oils. This is sent to the client who provides allows clients to differ from their competitors. A spa may carry feedback. similar brands to competitors in terms of the facial skincare or If adjustments are required, again we will reformulate until the retail ranges, but when it comes to creating a menu the concept client is satisfied. Once we have created the essential oil or oils we has to be different and we can help with this. investigates how the formulation works; not all ingredients work then develop the actual product, be it a massage oil, scrub or shower gel. We can take this in any direction. A client may require What is your USP? only one item for a single location or we can create an entire menu Firstly we can adjust any product formulation and we have a to be used at multiple locations. direct link to a production facility. We can be flexible on sizes, so we can produce as little as five litres or five kilograms so clients can create something unique without having to invest in large "we can take this in any direction. a client may requireonly one item for a single location or we can create an entire menu to be used at multiple locations” quantities. We also offer a door-to-door service for delivery – our clients only have to come up with an idea and we do the rest. Can you tell us about any future plans for HOMD? HOMD presently has two offices, one based in Dubai and the second in Ireland. We will continue to focus on these two markets, we do have a Dubai-based sister company called Puri Middle East which is more focused on developing partnerships in markets like the MENA region and through this company we will look to expand. PB For more information on House of Maria Dowling or Puri Middle East, please contact +971 4 884 1555 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 expert opinion professionalbeauty.ae 61 Training days Investing in a monthly training day might seem like a big ask, but the resulting benefits of a highly-trained, motivated staff are worth it, writes Maria Dowling I n my past columns I have touched upon the subject of staff training; the reasons why training is such an important tool in the development of skills, team building and overall staff morale. This month, I’m going to provide insight into staff training at mariadowling specifically. Like many in the beauty business, our salon is incredibly busy, every day. Making sure the entire team is available for a training session on their day off or after hours is pretty much unachievable. So I close the salon for a full day once a month for training. On the first Monday of every month, we don’t take bookings, and the stylists have the whole day free to come into the salon and be part of the training programme. In closing the salon I lose revenue but feel that it’s worth it. Learning and staying motivated in our industry is essential for growth and development. Creativity and keeping abreast of new techniques is exciting for everyone, and our staff then passes this excitement and enthusiasm on to the clients. “Learning and staying motivated in our industry is essential for growth and development” When I am planning a training day, I look at what is happening in the salon. I meet with suppliers to see who can provide training on new techniques, product knowledge and customer service. These days, thanks to the internet, our clients are often as informed as us about new products on the market, so it is essential to make sure our suppliers provide product training and updates regularly so we can offer expert advice. Training days are well planned and thought out. I work with my head colourist and salon manager, to come up with ideas and a programme well ahead of the training day so I ensure that the stylists and support team are kept busy and stimulated for the whole day. To give you an example of a recent training session we did, L’Oréal brought in an international artist from the UK who spent a day at the salon. We arranged for models so he could demonstrate the new spring/summer cuts and colour trends, then our stylists took over and replicated the looks on their own models, under the watchful eye of the L’Oréal artist and me. We very much work to international level, staying ahead of trends from Europe and the rest of the world. This is one of the reasons our clients return to us, because they know their style is current wherever they are in the world. We also look at other trends that are having an impact on hair. For example, every training day we have a session called “Lifestyle”, where we take fashion and trends for clothing, shoes, bags, make-up, and look at how it all connects to hair trends. It’s amazing when we sit and look at how it all makes sense, and great for the team to be able to relate this back to the clients. I have been asked many questions in the past about whether giving staff more skills through training will encourage them to move on to other salons or to bigger and better things. For me, this isn’t an issue. I urge businesses not to be afraid to train their staff for fear of empowering them and then losing them. I look at training as a self-improvement tool which will help retain staff rather than lose them. Your employees will appreciate the effort that has been put into the training day, and ultimately this is the type of employee that you want to retain – someone who continually wants to improve. Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 42 25. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 training professionalbeauty.ae 63 All change Sally Hewerdine explains how to steer your business through times of change M any of you will have recently picked up a lot of inspiration from Professional Beauty’s Global Spa and Wellness conventions, both in Dubai, UAE and in London, UK. This might well have motivated you into making a few changes to your own business, whether you are an owner or a hands on team player. The majority of people struggle with change, you get into comfortable routines and are frightened of what is often called “failure”. Of course you need change, your businesses need change to develop and move with the times and although some may not relish it for fear of the unknown, change is generally very good for you and for your clients. Managing change well ensures that teams and individuals are seamlessly transitioning into a new desired state; this could be the way you do things or the introduction of a new treatment or brand. One of the most important aspects of implementing change is getting everyone to “buy in”. If those concerned understand the reasoning behind the change you are half way to successful implementation. Alternatively if you have an idea and are looking for reassurance before implementing it then there are many ways to see if that idea is going to be received well: • Conduct a small survey • Host a lunch with your team and get the conversation started • Conduct a trial on a small scale and demonstrate results • Share your research and reasoning with a leadership team • Take advantage of others open door policies to ‘pop in and ask the question’ • Hold a focus group with clients and get their opinions Once your have gained the reassurance you need, there are several ways you can implement change as seamlessly as : “The majority of people struggle with change, you get into comfortable routines and are frightened of what is often called failure” Tips for success 1. Change committee You may wish to consider a change committee for those in the team who like a project and extra responsibility. This is a great way to motivate and delegate, sharing responsibility and empowering people. Ensure your committee has a very clear understanding of their role and your expectations. 2. Setting goals Setting clear measurable goals will not only motivate you to achieve, but enable you monitor progress. Ensure your goals are SMART: Specific, Measurable, Attainable, Relevant and Time-Bound. 3. Feasibility If you are making changes that include financial input then make sure you research well to reduce the risk of an unsuccessful change; consider focus groups and do a feasibility study. 4. Transparent communication Ensure everyone is clear about why change is occurring; good communication and transparency is vital for a successful implementation. 5. Training Design effective and measurable training to direct staff. Follow up with tests, observation, and feedback to monitor the success of the training. It often takes a while to create new habits so recap training is essential. 6. Planning Like any good project the success is all in the planning. Put together your strategy with timelines, delegate to your committee and re-group for progress reports. 7. Introducing Into your culture In order for changes to become part of your culture, to really have it embedded into your business the change needs to be reiterated all the time. Recap the message in meetings, training, day-to-day chat, observation rounds, posters, newsletters and marketing. Repeat it, repeat it again and just for safe measure do it again another twenty times. Remember, change is good if you believe it's good. Sally Hewerdine is a spa and wellness specialist with 25 years' experience. Her career has taken her around the world and has included a stint as a health and beauty editor in Dubai. Her recent passion is for training. This has inspired her to create “SpotlightOnSpa&Wellness”, a company designed to motivate and educate spa and wellness industry professionals. Her book, Driving Retail is available now, published by Lulu. If you would like to acquire the tools for embracing change contact Sally, email: [email protected] Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 treatment reviews professionalbeauty.ae 65 Healthy glow This month we showcase tanning, warm sand therapy and a new skin rejuvenation ritual This month we tried… St Tropez Spray Tan at Essentials Beauty Salon Artificial tans have come a long way in the last decade, not only in terms of product evolution and development, but also in terms of uptake and acceptance. Long gone are the days when fake tans were reserved for Hollywood stars or special occasions, nowadays they are a regular fixture in the weekly beauty rituals of many women and men. As artificial tans have grown in popularity so has recognition of the St Tropez brand. Renowned and regularly lauded for its natural looking, easy to apply tanning products, St Tropez has been at the forefront of the artificial tanning industry for many years now. So when it comes to testing an artificial tanning treatment, it seems appropriate to try a St Tropez spray tan. I was advised to carry out an all over exfoliation 24 hours prior to the spray tan application and to arrive at the salon – Essentials Beauty Salon – in dark, loose fitting clothing. I discuss with the therapist the depth of tan I’d like – as someone who has naturally pale skin I’m seeking a subtle colour upgrade to my skin, a sunkissed glow rather than a bold bronzed finish, and therefore the therapist recommends a medium tan. Prior to the treatment, the therapist applies moisturiser to my hands, elbows and knees to prevent the tanning solution from collecting in these dry areas. The spray tan itself is a quick and easy process. It takes the therapist less than 10 minutes to apply two layers of the spray tan, which feels cool and smells relatively odour-free as it hits the skin. After the application, there’s a further 10 minutes of fan-assisted drying and then I’m told to wait at least eight hours before showering. This allows the tan to develop and penetrate the skin, which the therapist says should last a week. The resulting colour is fabulous, the sun-kissed glow I was looking for and the positive reaction of family and friends also points to the success of the treatment. Tested by Zoe Moleshead Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 treatment reviews professionalbeauty.ae 67 Spotlight LPG Skin Rejuvenation This month we tried… MLX Quartz “warm sand” treatment From wellness experts Gharieni, the MLX Quartz treatment table provides an innovative and remarkable concept in spa tables. Instead of the usual surface, the table uses a base of alpha-quartz sand, which can be warmed to the desired temperature. Based on the ancient Greek concept of “psammotherapy”, which uses warm sand to alleviate pain and promote comfort, the client reclines on a linen placed on the table and the warm quartz “sand” flows around the body enveloping it and releasing muscular tension. The height and inclination of the bed can be adjusted so that the client can lay with their feet or head elevated. The table was huge hit at the recent Professional Beauty GCC exhibition, where I got to experience it for myself. The state-of-the-art heated bed of warmed quartz was draped with cosy linens and I experienced the sensation of laying cocooned in warm sand. The healing powers of the quartz combined with the warmth of the bed, feels extremely grounding, comforting and relaxing. Just laying on the bed feels like a treatment in itself! The table can be used for regular massage treatments, herbal stamps, aromatherapy hot stone massage facials and and body wraps and is also a wonderful medium for you to create unique signature treatments for your spa. Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks This new skin rejuvenation treatment programme combines LPG’s Endermolift technology with a superficial peel for maximum results. The non-invasive treatment aims to create a unified and smoothed complexion and is particularly good for ageing and problem skin and pigmentation. The treatment commences with cleansing using the LPG pre-treatment Micellar Lotion. The Endermolift treatment is then used to boost microcirculation and stimulate fibroblasts to make them more receptive to the peel. This ensures that the skin will absorb the peel better and is less likely to appear red following the treatment. The peel is then applied to the face and neck via a noneedle syringe with a soft silicone applicator. The peel utilises glycolic acid and mandelic acid (derived from almonds) and comes in two formulas, one for sensitive, fine and reactive skins and one for normal to thick or mature skins. The mandelic acid has strong antibacterial properties and is suitable for all skin types including dark and olive complexions. The treatment is completed with a Post Treatment Collagen Mask to soothe and intensely moisturise the skin after the peel. The treatment can be performed every two weeks and a programme of six is recommended, although results are visible after just one treatment. Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 DISCOVER THE NEW TREND MIN ERA L COMPOSTION REGIONAL OFFICE: HERMS COSMETICS COMPANY L.L.C. Head Office: +971 4 4387747 I Fax: +971 4 4387748 I Email: [email protected] Sales Office: +971 4 2666946 I Fax: +971 4 2668224 I Email: [email protected] Burj Khalifa Area, Business Bay, Prism Tower. Office 1306 I P.O.Box: 7948 Dubai.UAE makeupKomask /KomasKMakeup www.komask.com product news professionalbeauty.ae 69 New beginnings Stock up for spring with the latest rejuvenating beauty, spa, hair and nail products Dermalogica Launched this month, Dermalogica’s PowerBrightTRx is a potent trio of skin-brighteners incorporating new technologies to produce a more even, luminous skin tone. The line replaces the ChromaWhite TR range, and represents a streamlined approach to treating hyperpigmentation with the beneficial layering of active complexes to optimise results. The new products include C-12 Pure Bright Serum, a highly active topical treatment which helps address pigmentation imbalance with an exclusive combination of peptides, rice-derived phytic acid, zinc glycinate and algae. Next up is Pure Light SPF50, a daytime moisturiser designed to shield the skin from pigment-inducing UV light, with the use of a new oleosome technology that boosts SPF protection without having to add higher concentrations of sunscreen agents. The final product, Pure Night, is a rich and nourishing overnight treatment that helps control melanin formation, restore skin luminosity and maximise the benefits of the PowerBrightTRx system while the skin is at rest. Call Healthcare +971 4 447 76 36 Goldwell Goldwell’s Dualsenses Color Extra Rich 60 Sec Treatment is designed for ultra-fast results and intensive care. It aims to leave hair smooth and well-nourished with visibly more colour brilliance thanks to the product’s Fade Stop Formula. It is enhanced with raspberry seed oil, which is rich in essential fatty acids and antioxidants providing protection, care and shine for the hair. After shampooing, the product is applied and combed through hair before being washed off after a minute. The product can be used in the salon and also retailed to your clients for home use. Call Madi +971 4 338 27 73 Essie Essie has extended its gel colour collection with the launch of 24 new shades. The striking new palette comprises sheer hues, classic creamy opaque colours, and cutting-edge neon shades. Alongside the new colours, a new matte top coat has been launched, enabling you to create many effects. Call L’Oréal +971 5 6605 50 79 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 product news professionalbeauty.ae 70 Thalgo Defi Cellulite claims to correct the structural alteration of compacted cellulite using Oxy Active technology. The product saturates the cellulite with encapsulated oxygen and is rich in santalum which helps disperse pronounced cellulite and reinforce the skin’s resistance to unsightly dimples, providing visibly smoother-looking skin. Obtained by combining fucus serratus algae with another plant, Coleus forskohlii, Thalgo’s exclusive Oxy Active Technology helps reverse the cellulite-generating process as it works to reactivate tissue oxygenation and reduce excessive expansion of adipocytes. It can be applied every morning by clients of all age groups. Call Madi + 971 4 338 27 73 Poya Roses, the universal symbol of love, have long been considered the most beloved of all flowers and the Damascus rose was especially cherished for its deeply haunting, beautiful scent. Clients can employ its healing properties and hydrate their skin with Poya’s Certified Organic Shea Butter and Damask Rose body mud which is suitable for all skin types, and has been formulated with mild but effective French Pink Clay, alpha hydroxy acids, and gentle exfoliants derived from sugar cane to regenerate the skin. The product is available in both professional and retail sizes. Call Poya +971 5 0454 14 68 ZOYA Inspired by the soft and airy colours of spring, the Delight collection features three cheerful cream colours and three spring metallics with a turquoise flash for an updated way to wear pastels. Eden is a classic flower pink in a glossy cream finish, Leslie is a soft, lavender metallic, Rayne is a dewy, spring blue metallic, Lillian is a faded aquamarine with a glossy cream finish while Tiana is a pistachio gelato green in a glossy cream finish. Finally, Daisy is a refreshing lemon meringue yellow metallic. Call Beauty-licious +971 4 220 60 25 TIGI TIGI Bed Head Dumb Blonde Toning Shampoo has a purple toning pigment aimed at enhancing cool tones in blondes. The specially-formulated shampoo is powered by violet toners to banish brassiness and brighten blonde hair, while cleansing and conditioning to help refresh, detangle and control frizz. Key ingredients include polyquatenium 10 to help prevent and control frizz, static and flyaways and amodimethicone to add shine to brittle, dull blonde hair. The product can be left in for one to 10 minutes depending on requirements. It can be enhaced by using the Dumb Blonde Reconstructor and Dumb Blonde Toning Protection Spray. Call EJ Salon Supply +971 4 447 02 90 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 Genuine Hair & Skin Care Products Exclusive Agent Bonanza International - +971 4 236 9300 - www.bonanzaintl.com - [email protected] Interested distributors in MENA and CIS are welcome! US MADE, SUNSCREEN AND SKINCARE PRODUCTS Exclusive Agent Bonanza International - +971 4 236 9300 - www.bonanzaintl.com - [email protected] Interested distributors in MENA and CIS are welcome! HUGE REVENUES FOR YOUR BUSINESS Non-surgical fat removal Up to 26% fat loss from a single treatment 45 - 60 minute treatment times Fully approved by the MOH for salon and spas Natural and comfortable process Permanent results The cool way to change your shape Full customer service and support Easy and interest free payment plans the Harley Street Specialists +971 4 326 2822 Option 4 [email protected] www.exclusivebeautyuae.com product news professionalbeauty.ae 73 Kérastase Chronologiste from Kérastase is a new in-salon treatment programme inspired by skincare rituals. The Chronologiste treatment is the result of years of research that has uncovered active ingredients namely abyssine and caviar pearls. Abyssine is a marine polysaccharide produced by micro-algae found in volcanic cliffs on the floor of the Pacific Ocean. It has profound skin protection properties, which, when combined with the elements gluco-lipide and bisabolol, results in deep nourishment of the hair. Caviar pearls are a vital pearl concentrate inspired by caviar spheres. Combined, these ingredients form an elixir than benefits hair from scalp to ends. Call L’Oréal +971 5 6605 50 79 Nashi Nashi’s Phyto Repair line has a dual complex of active plant stem cells and collagen. The Remedy Reconstructing Shampoo and Remedy Restorative Conditioner deeply hydrate the hair, restore its structure, and make it easier to comb. The Express Reconstructing Elixir can be applied after the shampoo to strengthen dry, fragile and frizzy hair before and after styling. Call Madi +971 4 338 27 73 Aromatherapy Associates Aromatherapy Associates has launched a Limited Edition Renewing Rose Body Velvet cream in celebration of the company’s 30th anniversary. A luxurious skin treatment which leaves the skin delicately scented, the rich cream stimulates collagen production, helping to improve tone and suppleness, while also being deeply nourishing, smoothing fine lines and helping to protect from signs of ageing. The velvet cream is designed to be massaged over the body daily. Call the Product House + 971 4 379 19 66 KeraStraight The Ultimate Oil offers a weapon in the war against frizz for your clients. Brought to you by the brains behind the KeraStraight treatment, the oil is a multi-tasking product, which provides intense nourishment to all hair types and is specially formulated to transform and repair the hair from the inside out. Ultimate Oil is a blend of nine specially chosen oils; argan, coconut, macadamia, olive, jojoba, avocado, linseed, sunflower and wheat germ oils. It is designed for use on dry or damp hair before styling or as an overnight treatment. The product’s non-greasy, lightweight formula absorbs easily into the hair to protect and strengthen, leaving all hair types ultra-smooth, shiny and frizz-free. Call Rapid General Trading +971 5 5105 79 93 Professional Beauty GCC April 2015 A healthy glowing complexion indicates a level of well-being, not just beauty AEOS (Active Energised Organic Skincare) brings us the opportunity to re-define and re-assess our approach to skincare through an innovative three phase system which amplifies and encapsulates the living energy of the natural ingredients it contains. AEOS products contain organic and biodynamic plant extracts, essences and essential oils, as well as spagyric tinctures of crystal energies, and the waveforms of colour. Through AEOS products we combine and include the alchemical techniques of the ancients, along with cutting edge skincare formulas, revolutionary for this time, for those of you who wish to nurture and care for yourself in a more meaningful way Outside in... Inside out... In Love and Light, The Healing Zone Training Centre, Gold & Diamond Park, Building No 2, Office 2214, Dubai Tel: 04 388 7552 | Email: [email protected] | www.thehealingzone.net Expert Hair Research SALON & TRADE ENQUIRIES CALL +971-4-3458833 or Email: [email protected] THE WORLD'S MOST SCIENTIFIC THICKENING TREATMENTS * F O R W O M E N Is your hair growing slowly, not thick enough, or even falling out? Nanogen Thickening Treatments are designed especially for you. Fortified with clinically tested Hair Growth Factors, amino acids and caffeine, Nanogen is unlike anything you’ve seen before. F O R M E N *2 independent clinical trials and 20 international patents and patents pending. classified professionalbeauty.ae 76 Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email [email protected] recruitment Do you want to join an industry leader? We have a fabulous opportunity for an We are a unique concept specialising in Targeted Body Shaping based in Dubai. EDUCATOR Espai Beauty is an industry leading beauty distribution company in Dubai rapidly expanding our brand and regional footprint. We are currently expanding our retail and distribution activities in the region and are looking for talented and creative female beauty expert to join our fun, dynamic and fast growing distribution group. JOB REQUIREMENTS: • Must love teaching and truly believe in the Bio Sculpture products • Must be a Bio Sculpture Gel qualified trainer / educator • At least 2 years teaching experience in this field • At least 2 years work experience in similar role • Sales experience will be an added advantage • Knowledge of current industry trends, standards and operations • Must possess a thorough understanding of nail care • Ability to handle large classes If you have a positive attitude to your work, dedicated, enthusiastic and experienced in beauty industry, who believes in the power of sharing your knowledge, motivating others and putting clients first we want to hear from you. Contact us on [email protected] We are seeking dynamic, motivated coaches who would like to work in a multicultural environment and coach our clients to achieve their desired body shape & fitness goals. We work with premium & internationally acclaimed targeted weight loss, fat burning & body shaping systems including HYPOXI, LPG, Power Plate & TRX Applicants with background in fitness, personal training, physiotherapy or nursing preferred. Competitive salary with training and opportunities to grow. If you fit the above requirements, send in your Resume & Cover Letter to [email protected] We are seeking a Receptionist cum Sales Admin with an outgoing personality. We are a unique concept specialising in Targeted Body Shaping based in Dubai. Ideal candidate should have excellent written & verbal communication skills, excellent telephone etiquette preferably with a proven track record of providing exceptional customer service and administrative support to the sales team. Candidate also must have adequate knowledge of Microsoft Office, ability to work with a POS system to manage appointments & bookings. 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If you fit the above requirements, send in your Resume & Cover Letter to [email protected] DISTRIBUTORS Tailor mixed for Tailor mixed for Tailor mixed for each customer Tailor mixed for Tailor mixed for customer Tailor mixed each for each customer each customer each customer We are looking for a distributor in GCC each customer from Germany www.farrell-international.com We We are are looking looking for for a a distributor distributor in in GCC GCC www.farrell-international.com 00973 39933316 We are looking for a distributor in GCC [email protected] www.farrell-international.com www.beauty-manama.com www.farrell-international.com [email protected] We areWe looking for looking a distributorfor in GCC are a distributor in GCC www.farrell-international.com [email protected] 00973 39933316 [email protected] www.farrell-international.com [email protected] www.beauty-manama.com [email protected] Business services 00973 39933316 39933316 00973 00973 39933316 www.beauty-manama.com www.beauty-manama.com 00973 39933316 www.beauty-manama.com www.beauty-manama.com Professional Luxury hair care range is now available in the UAE. All salon and retail enquiries contact: [email protected] +971 4 368 7288 classified professionalbeauty.ae 77 Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email [email protected] DISTRIBUTORS Beauty Essentials WLL List of Brands: • Aloxxi Salon Color & Care • JB Cosmetics o JB Lashes (Pioneers in Eyelash Extensions) o Color Secrets Professional (Eyelash Enhancers, Contact details: Ramona Feraru +971 4 38 04123 The Spanish Hair-Products brand, has arrived to UAE after decades of supporting professionals in Europe get the results they need. Curl and Flow Cosmetic Trading. Curl & Flow Cosmetic Trading LLC Al Barsha 1 , B8 Building ,Office 501 PO Box 392410 SEPIDE UHLMANN Cell: +971 (0) 50 2517305 Email: [email protected] www.neulash.ae HIS Heaven Everything a man needs to withstand time Grooming, skincare and anti-ageing range Make the perfect impression with ultra-smooth hair and skin that demands a closer look. No matter how hard you work, Heaven's specially formulated range for men works even harder to keep you looking good and feeling your best. Tel :+971 4 3850557 | Fax : +971 4 3850558 Email: [email protected] Website: www.curlandflow.com Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel. 04 278 5145 Address. Level 27, Marina Plaza, Dubai Marina www.heavenskincare.com Heaven Health & Beauty Ltd Cosmetica Beauty and Personal Care Equipment Trading Tel. 04 2394666 www.cosmeticatrading.com [email protected] Tel + 971 4 3048801 Fax + 971 4 4203391 Nail Care, etc.) (Natural Eyelash Conditioning System) o Simpleperm (Quick & Simple Eyelash Perming System) o Lashfood • Artistic Nail Design • Swiss Color International (Permanent Makeup and Lift MESO Concept) Beauty Essentials Trading Al Manara Bldg., 8th Floor, Office # 801, Business Bay , Dubai, P.O. Box 38413, Dubai, UAE Tel #: 04 5546058 Fax #: 04 5546043 Mob. #: +971 505969982 Email: [email protected] / [email protected] Aisha Chishti No.5, Zeenah Building Opp. Deira City Center (P3) Dubai T-971.4.259.4577 F-971.4.259.4578 M-971.55.465.7145 www.shahnazhusainuae.com www.facebook.com/ShahnazHusainSignatureSalonDubai Contact number: 04 399 0550 Email Address: [email protected] www.aquatherapyuae.com www.aquadeadsea.com www.mcosmetics.com aquatherapyuae Aquadeadsea Contact number: 04 399 0550 Email Address: [email protected] Acumen International Tel. 043212381 Trading Fax. 043212382 Joz Group [email protected] www.jozgroup.net Post Box 2544, Dubai, United Arab Emirates classified 78 professionalbeauty.ae Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email [email protected] DISTRIBUTORS training TRAINING Accredited qualifications in beauty to meet DHA/MOH licencing requirements REGISTRATION OPEN CIBTAC/ITEC programs – Massage, Spa Management, Beauty Anatomy, physiology and pathology; Indian Head Massage, Mani/Pedi, Facials, Nutrition, Reiki, Business, Customer Service 5 days to 12 weeks courses – quotations available for groups In-house training also available for spa groups The Healing Zone Training Centre, Gold & Diamond Park, Building No 2, Office 2214, Dubai Tel: 04 388 7552 | Email: [email protected] | www.thehealingzone.net classified professionalbeauty.ae 79 Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email [email protected] TRAINING Hair Make-up Hair Make-up Hair Make-up Contact us: 44542422/ 44542466 Contact us: Beauty Body Beauty Spa Body Spa Beauty Body Spa Come Along. Talk to Us. ENROLL. Come Along. Talk to Us. ENROLL. Come Along. Talk to Us. ENROLL. 44542422/ 44542466 Official Sponsor Contact us: 44542422/ 44542466 Follow us on: /TajmeelAcademy Official Sponsor Email:[email protected] www.qiba.com.qa Follow us on: Official Sponsor /TajmeelAcademy Email:[email protected] Follow us on: www.qiba.com.qa /TajmeelAcademy Email:[email protected] www.qiba.com.qa diary dates professionalbeauty.ae 80 Diary dates 3-4 May The Makeup Show NYC Metropolitan Pavillion, New York, USA Entering its 10th year, this event is dedicated to make-up professionals who are looking to discover the latest products and tools, and to participate in hands on workshops and seminars. www.themakeupshow.com/nyc/ 16-18 May International Beauty Expo Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC), Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Featuring exhibitors from the beauty, cosmetics, skincare, hair, nail, spa, wellness and nutrition sectors, the event also includes a hairdressing competition and a business matching programme. www.ibe.my 10-11 May Beauty UK Show NEC, Birmingham, UK This show covers the beauty, hair, barber, nails and holistic health sectors and also features hair and make-up competitions, as well as an educational programme and live demonstrations. www.beautyukshow.com 17-18 May International Hair and Beauty Show Meadowlands Expo Center, New Jersey, USA With the slogan “Back to Education”, it’s no surprise that this event bills itself as an educational trade show. www.ihshow.com 12-14 May FCE Cosmetique Transamerica Expo Center, Sao Paulo, Brazil Specialising in the cosmetics sector, the exhibition is designed for suppliers, distributors and resellers. www.fcecosmetique.com.br 19-21 May China Beauty Expo Shanghai New International Expo Center, Shanghai, China This exhibition showcases skincare, make-up, fragrance, nail, spa and beauty products and equipment and will be celebrating its 20th edition this year. chinabeautyexpo.informaexhibitions.com/ en/Home/ Don’t Miss... 6-9 May The 23rd Annual World Congress on Anti-Aging Medicine Diplomat Resort & Spa, Florida, USA Featuring both an exhibition and a conference, the event is set to welcome over 3,000 healthcare practitioners from around the world. Conference highlights and topics include lifestyle factors, injectable techniques and anti-ageing cosmetics or cosmeceuticals. www.a4m.com/anti-aging-conference-2015hollywood.html SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú [email protected] DISTRIBUTORS Look Younger! Face Rejuvenation System BEFORE AFTER 4 TREATMENTS AFTER 8 TREATMENTS Revolutionary solution for anti ageing Stimulates natural collagen generation Removes wrinkles and improves appearance Revitalizes skin with vitamins and minerals Instant glow from every refreshing treatment Skin is tightened enabling eye lifts and lip pout No pain and risk free with zero injectables Reduces visibility of acne and scarred skin the Harley Street Specialists +971 4 326 2822 Option 4 [email protected] www.exclusivebeautyuae.com THE BEAUTY VITAMIN: HIGHLY DOSED & EMBEDDED INTO INNOVATIVE FORMULATIONS Make use of the manifold skin rejuvenating effects: Lifting anti-wrinkle effect: activates the collagen remodelling Antioxidant & wound healing effects: intelligent combination with zinc Complexion equalizing effect: regulates the new formation of pigments Acidic effects: increases the activity of important enzymes FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR REVIDERM PARTNER: Abu Dhabi : Tel.: 00971 2 6275926 Dubai : Tel.: 00971 4 3884549 Email: [email protected] THE AR R T O F AG E - L E S S B E A U T Y High-end spa tables, beds and equipment for your spa. Made in Germany Gharieni Middle-East // The Platinum Tower, Cluster I - No. 2102, Jumeirah Lakes Towers, PO Box 392642, Dubai U.A.E. +9 71 4 - 2 76 67 34 // [email protected] // www.gharieni.ae Gharieni Group Germany // +49 28 41 - 88 300 -50 // [email protected] // www.gharieni.com
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