Unit B25
Provide self
tanning services
What you will learn
Maintain safe and effective methods of working
when providing self tanning treatments
Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients
Apply self tan products
Provide aftercare advice
1
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Introduction
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
Helps skin condition due to exfoliation
and moisturising eﬀect
Not harmful to the skin
Throughout history, people have had a close connection
with the sun. Past civilisations worshipped and oﬀered
sacriﬁces to the sun god, who provided warmth and made
crops grow. As cultures changed, so did our relationship with
the sun. Skin colour became an indicator of social status,
one that separated the working classes from the upper
classes – if you had a tan it meant you worked in the ﬁelds
all day so people who didn’t need to work went to great
lengths to be pale. Some of them even risked poisoning
themselves by using lead-based cosmetics to artiﬁcially
whiten their skin. This continued until the early 1920s when
the leading fashion icon Coco Chanel travelled back from
the Mediterranean with a deep golden tan and bronzed skin
become truly desirable. By the 1930s the suntan was an
indicator of health, wealth and style and – in the 1940s –
suntan lotion hit the market. At that time, it was designed to
assist with the tanning process and not to protect skin from
the sun’s rays.
Dermatological (skin) research now proves that regular
tanning can lead to long-term damage. It can even reduce
life expectancy, with incidences of skin cancer on the increase
worldwide.
Today, beaches are as busy as ever but most sunbathers are
better at protecting their skin from the potentially harmful
eﬀects of tanning. Although people are now more aware of the
dangers of regular tanning, they still want the healthy glow of
a tan and so the need for an artiﬁcial tan was generated.
2
Self tanning is a very popular treatment in salons and is
now at the forefront of public consciousness both through
celebrity endorsement and the growing awareness of the
dangers associated with regular ultraviolet (UV) tanning.
There has been great advancement in the formulation of the
products used in self tanning – gone are the days of streaking
and strong-smelling products. A polished tan is now easily
applied and straightforward for therapists. It is important to
stress that it is a salon treatment, rather than one the client
can perform at home. Techniques are now so good that
therapists can also perform body sculpting – this involves
highlighting muscle groups by adding deﬁnition through the
use of clever shading. The client ends up with an all over,
even glow with no strap marks or redness of the skin.
Instant results
Beneﬁts of self tanning:
Can help to even out
pigmentation patches
Makes the client feel
better – a good pick-me-up
What is a tan?
A suntan is a by-product of the action the skin takes when
trying to protect itself from the sun’s rays. Melanin
production within the epidermis increases and the longer
the exposure to UV rays, the darker the pigment becomes.
How self tanning works
Self tanning uses a form of vegetable dye which coats the
very top layer of the epidermis – the horny layer. Aside from
the minimal risk of allergic reaction, the process is harmless
and does no damage to the skin’s structure, while producing
diﬀering levels of skin colour to suit individual client needs.
The ﬁnished result will vary depending upon individual
manufacturers’ products, the depth of application, the base
shade of the skin to begin with and the type of product used.
The end result of a self tanning treatment is also dependent
upon the condition of the skin prior to treatment – poor
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
-& '(" "((
(2"-
"(*+ 2/".
.( "(((2"The layers of the epidermis
surfaces do not give an even ﬁnish and will provide a poor
result. As self tanning products only coat the top layer of the
epidermis, they only last for the life cycle of the cells. As
the skin cells are shed or exfoliated then the tan will be lost,
usually within a week of application. Refer to You and the
skin, pages 232–233, and Anatomy and physiology, pages
166–177, for more information on the anatomy of the skin
and the layers of the epidermis.
Much research has gone into the development of staining
agents to give a natural and lasting colour. When self
tanning products ﬁrst came onto the beauty market in the
early 1960s, the overall eﬀect was rather orange and not
very natural looking. Now the products are coloured, instead
of white, so that you can see where product has already been
applied and where it is still needed. Advances in technology
have removed the artiﬁcial smell associated with self tanning
products and many now include added moisturisers to keep
the skin supple and so. Make-up bronzers and lipsticks are
also available to enhance the golden tan eﬀect.
Methods of application
1
Manual application with a therapist carrying out the
treatment using buﬃng mitts.
2
Airbrush application in a pod or booth with a therapist
applying the tan using a spray gun.
3
Spray tanning booth that automatically dispenses
product via ﬁxed nozzles built into the machine – no
therapist required.
Unit B25
("-
(2"-*0(-
(2"-
Self tanning preparations can be applied to the face and the
body. Most leading cosmetic houses and salon suppliers
hold a range of self tanning products which are available
as creams, gels, lotions, mousses, or wipes. There are now
tanning booths available, where the product is sprayed on
with an air gun to give an even, all-over application.
Provide self tanning services
+-*2
(2"-
Maintain safe and
eﬀective methods of
working when providing
self tanning treatments
In this section you will learn about:
sSETTINGUPYOURTREATMENTAREA
sCLIENTPREPARATIONBEFORETREATMENT
sPERSONALPROTECTIVEEQUIPMENTFORBOTHTHERAPISTANDCLIENT
sENVIRONMENTALCONDITIONSFORTANNING
sCLIENTMODESTYANDWELLBEING
The Standards set out detailed performance criteria regarding:
maintaining safe and eﬀective methods of working when
providing self tanning treatments
Spray tanning can be carried out by the therapist or in an
automated booth
consulting, planning and preparing for treatments with
clients.
3
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
The majority of these requirements apply to all beauty
therapy treatments and are therefore covered in detail in
Professional Basics, pages 2–86, the Body consultation
section, pages 324–361, and Unit G22 Monitor procedures
to safely control work operations, pages 88–117 (see the
Level 3 Student Book). Page references will be provided to
these sections where relevant. You should also refer back to
You and the skin and Anatomy and physiology, as required.
For information about your responsibilities under current
health and safety legislation see You, your client and the law
on pages 68–86.
Treatment-speciﬁc requirements for self tanning are covered
within this unit.
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
Setting up your treatment area
How you set up your treatment area will depend upon your
treatment – a spray gun booth or pod will require a diﬀerent
set-up than that required for a manual tan, with the client on
the couch. The same rules apply to any treatment; always be
prepared, ensuring all equipment is readily to hand, and never
leave your client unattended. Follow the ﬁve golden rules:
1
Always carry out a full consultation with your client to
discover their needs, their expectations of treatment,
medical history, allergies and so on.
2
Always run through a full contra-indication checklist with
the client.
3
Always carry out a patch test to check suitability of
products to be used.
4
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions at each stage
of the treatment.
5
Never use equipment you have not been trained to
handle.
Treatment room checklist
Exfoliators
Large bowl
Skin oil
Large bath sheet
Product for self tanning (cream, gel, lotion or mousse)
Waste bin
Couch cover
Couch and trolley
2–3 small hand towels
4
Tissues
Head band or complete hair covering cap
Eye goggles
Nose plugs
Disposable panties or thong
Disposable foot wear
Barrier cream
Clean, disposable gloves
Distilled water for product dilution
Cotton buds
Cleanser/make-up remover
Disposable couch roll.
Client preparation before
treatment
The following advice should be given to clients before their
treatment so they arrive at the salon fully prepared, and do
not do anything which may reduce the eﬀectiveness of their
self tanning treatment.
Advise clients to exfoliate and moisturise their skin
regularly prior to having the treatment. This will ensure
a smoother surface for the therapist to apply the tan and
so achieve better results.
Clients should wear loose clothing – preferably dark in
colour – or bring something to change into which won’t
rub the skin and disturb the colour development. The
tan fades fastest on areas where there is friction or close
contact with the skin: the waistband of jeans, the hands,
the tops of socks and so on.
Any hair removal treatments should be carried out at
least 24 hours before the tanning treatment to allow the
skin time to heal and for any irritation to subside before
self tanning products are applied.
Clients should stop using other tanning products seven
days before they have the treatment. If this advice is
ignored, the quality and colour of the tan cannot be
guaranteed.
Brides are advised to have the treatment two days before
their wedding. This allows them to adapt to their new
tan. It is also advisable to have a trial run prior to the big
day as the colour cannot be altered once it develops, and
it could be too dark or look too artiﬁcial.
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Personal protective equipment for
both therapist and client
As the therapist, you should always wear gloves and
protective clothing such as an apron for the self tanning
application, not only for hygiene but to prevent your hands
from adsorbing too much of the product. If you were to carry
out several tanning treatments a day, your hands would get
darker and darker!
As with all treatments, it is important that you ensure your
personal hygiene, protection and appearance meet industry
and organisational requirements before and during your
treatments. Remember also to thoroughly disinfect your
hands prior to treatment. For more information, see pages 8
and 42–43 in Professional basics, You – the therapist.
The client needs to be in either disposable panties or their
own swimwear, if they prefer, so that the tan is appropriate
for the attire. This will avoid strap marks appearing or white
skin showing if another leg line or neckline is chosen later. If
the tan is to be all over the body, including the buttocks, the
client should be in a disposable thong, or one of their own.
Refer to Professional basics, You and your working
environment, pages 58–63 for revision of acceptable
environmental conditions for your client. As the client is in a
state of undress, the room should be warm but not too hot.
You should also ensure there is suitable ventilation to allow
good air ﬂow. This is especially important when using a
spray gun, as it is possible to inhale the mist from the spray
if you are too close – the chemical composition may give
the therapist a headache over a period of time with repeat
treatments. Some manufacturers oﬀer nose plugs for the
client and a mask for the therapist to avoid any inhalation of
product – always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for
the equipment you are using.
Client modesty and wellbeing
It is essential that client modesty is maintained at all times
throughout the treatment, whichever type of treatment you
are giving. The treatment room should be private and warm,
so that the client feels comfortable when undressed and
conﬁdent that the treatment will not be disturbed.
Unit B25
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HIMORHERITWILLWASHOFFASITISAVEGETABLEDYE!FTERTHE
TREATMENTITWILLWASHOFFALLTHETOWELSYOUHAVEUSEDTOO
Environmental conditions for
tanning
Provide self tanning services
Think about it
Most clients will bring in their own swimwear or underwear
to be worn during tanning and there are disposable panties
or thongs available for single use, which can then be worn
home, if required, or thrown away. Encourage the client to
bring in their own underwear or swimwear if possible – this
means you can ensure that you are covering the areas
required and there will be no white skin visible if the client
later wears a diﬀerently shaped bikini top or bottom. Male
clients should bring their normal swimming attire so that
both legs and trunk can be tanned.
Remember to check on the client’s wellbeing at regular
intervals during the self tanning treatment. If the client were
to develop a contra-action, such as an allergic reaction to
the products used, you need to be prepared to remove the
products quickly and take the necessary action.
It is important that the client wears the appropriate attire for a
self tanning session
5
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Consult, plan and prepare
for treatments with
clients
In this section you will learn about:
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
sCLIENTCONSULTATIONTECHNIQUES
sCONSENTFORMS
sCARRYINGOUTASKINSENSITIVITYTEST
sCONTRAINDICATIONSTOTREATMENTANDNECESSARYACTIONSIF
TREATMENTCANNOTGOAHEAD
sPREPARATIONOFTHECLIENTFORTREATMENT
sSELECTINGTHEMOSTAPPROPRIATEPRODUCTS
sMETHODSOFAPPLICATION
Client consultation techniques
During the client consultation you will need to establish the
client’s requirements and what they are hoping to achieve
from the treatment. You must use appropriate consultation
and questioning techniques and be polite and friendly in
your approach. Remember to allow time for the client to ask
questions and encourage them to participate in a discussion.
This will help to ensure that you have fully understood their
expectations. For more information about consultation and
questioning techniques, refer to Professional basics, You and
your client, pages 34–42.
Client’s skin colouring
When carrying out the initial consultation it is important to
consider the client’s skin colouring and type. The ideal tanning
result for the client is a natural and healthy glow to the skin,
with an even ﬁnish. You should take time to explain to the
client that the ﬁnished tan should be an enhancement of their
natural colouring. So, if the client is naturally very pale, the
skin should be given a golden honey colour by diluting the
tanning product with moisturiser, rather than attempting to
go very dark, which can look unnatural with fair hair or blue
eyes. Again, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions – some
airbrush tanning solutions can be diluted with distilled water
to soen the end result and prevent the tan from looking too
dark or harsh. A second application can always be applied to
light or fair skin once the client has adjusted to the colour,
but a heavy application cannot be taken oﬀ once the tan has
developed. A client who is naturally quite dark will be able
to take a heavier application while still ensuring a naturallooking ﬁnish once the tan has developed.
Many manufacturers make tanning preparations in fair,
medium and dark tones and they always recommend the
use of the Fitzpatrick skin categories. For further information
on pigmentation, related problems and skin characteristics
please refer to You and the skin, pages 222–254.
The following table shows the Fitzpatrick Skin Categories:
Skin type
Typical features
Tanning ability
)n#ELTIC%NGLISH
0ALEWHITEFAIRSKIN !LWAYSBURNS
FRECKLESDOESNOT
.ORTHERN%UROPEAN BLUEHAZELEYES
TAN
BLONDREDHAIR
"URNSEASILYTANS
POORLYANDWITH
DIFlCULTYFRECKLES
))n.ORDIC.ORTH
!MERICAN
7HITEFAIRSKIN
GREENBROWNOR
BLUEEYESSANDYTO
BROWNHAIR
)))n#ENTRAL
%ASTERN%UROPEAN
-EDITERRANEAN
-AORI.EW:EALAND
4ANSAFTERINITIAL
$ARKEROROLIVE
BURN
WHITESKINGREEN
BROWNEYESBROWN
HAIR
)6n#HINESE
+OREAN*APANESE
4HAI3OUTH
!MERICAN)NDIAN
&ILIPINO
/LIVETOLIGHTBROWN "URNSMINIMALLY
TANSEASILY
SKINBROWNEYES
BROWNHAIR
Continued
6
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Tanning ability
6n%AST!FRICAN
%THIOPIAN.ORTH
!FRICAN-IDDLE
%ASTERN!RABIC
$ARKBROWNSKIN
DARKBROWNEYES
BLACKHAIR
2ARELYBURNSTANS
DARKLYANDEASILY
6)n!FRICAN
#ARIBBEAN
!MERICAN!FRICAN
$ARKBROWNOR
BLACKSKINDARK
BROWNBLACKEYES
BLACKHAIR
.EVERBURNSALWAYS
TANSDARKLY
Cost, duration and frequency of treatment
During the consultation stage it is a good idea to talk through
the treatment, particularly the cost, duration and frequency.
Prices vary from salon to salon and also for packages and
home treatments; some include homecare products, others
do not. Make sure your client fully understands what their
treatment entails – whether it is for a course or a one-oﬀ
treatment – and which products are included.
The client has to understand that the colouring of the skin is
temporary and that it only lasts for the lifetime of the skin
cells – no claim can be made for a permanent colouring of
the skin. See Professional basics, You, your client and the
law (pages 78–80) for information on the Trade Descriptions
Act, the Consumer Protection Act and the risks of making
false claims in advertising or pricing.
It is also important to explain the beneﬁts of the treatment
and any restrictions to use in a way that your client can
understand. Under the Trade Descriptions Act, it is unlawful
for you to mislead your client or make promises that the
treatment cannot deliver so it is important that you check
your client’s understanding of the information you have
given them.
Managing client expectations
If it is your client’s ﬁrst experience with tanning products,
do suggest that they go a lighter shade to begin with and
then you can oﬀer a darker application next time. As the
pigmentation will develop 4–8 hours aer the treatment, it
is not always easy to judge the ﬁnished result and your client
may be unhappy if the tan ends up too dark at the end of the
development time.
It is important to manage the client’s expectations, in order
to oﬀer the right advice.
Be realistic (but gentle) with the client who thinks that a
self tan will make him or her slimmer or get rid of skin
problems or tone the skin. While a healthy skin colour is
a morale booster, it is not a skin treatment as such and
will not hide blackheads, spots or other skin problems.
Nor does it oﬀer coverage in the same way that make-up
would. Oen, the opposite will occur – a tan application
may highlight and draw attention to skin imperfections,
as the colour will be uneven and patchy.
Do fully discuss the reason why the client wants the
treatment. For example, if she is a bride who wants to
have glowing skin for her big day you must allow plenty
of time prior to the wedding to have a trial run in case
she does not like the colour or it looks unnatural against
her wedding dress.
If the client wants a pre-holiday treatment to take
the edge oﬀ a very pale body, you must inform them
that an artiﬁcial tan will not protect the skin from
burning and a sun cream should still be used.
Most self tanning products do not contain any sun
protection factor (SPF) as it does not mix well with high
levels of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) – a key ingredient in
self tan.
Unit B25
Typical features
Ensure the client is aware that the treatment is only
as good as the surface it goes on to; rather like an
application of gloss paint. If the underlying surface is
uneven and poorly prepared then the ﬁnished result
will be poor. The client should regularly exfoliate and
moisturise their skin prior to treatment. Dry patches of
skin will absorb more product and this will result in an
accumulation of colour – hard skin on the feet, knees or
elbows is particularly prone to this.
Provide self tanning services
Skin type
Self tan cannot change the underlying muscle structure
but it can add artiﬁcial deﬁnition and there are specialist
spray tanners who will emphasise the muscle groups
with careful shading; as used by many professional
body builders.
The consultation is oen a good time to introduce the
client to aercare products, such as moisturisers and
dry-skin oils, which help the tan last longer.
You should agree in writing the client’s needs, expectations
and treatment outcomes to ensure they are realistic and
achievable. Record your decisions on the client’s record card,
as well as the outcome of any treatment undertaken. Your
client record cards must be up to date and accurate, and
stored in a safe place. For more information on client record
cards, refer to Professional basics, You and your client,
pages 29–54.
7
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Think about it
)FACLIENTISALREADYTANNEDBECAUSETHEYHAVEJUSTRETURNED
FROMHOLIDAYTHEEFFECTOFTHETANNINGPROCESSWILLBESIMILAR
TOTHATOFTHELASTDAYOFTHEHOLIDAY(OWEVERIFTHESKINIS
QUITEDRYANDREADYTOPEELTHENTHESELFTANWILLBESHED
ALONGWITHTHEORIGINALSUNTAN
Consent forms
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
Always ensure that parental or guardian consent is obtained
for minors under the age of 16 and that the parent or
guardian is present during the self tanning treatment. This
is also for your own protection and to avoid any malpractice
allegations. For more information about the importance of
consent and the relevant legislation, refer to page 23 in
Professional basics.
For your portfolio
#ARRYOUTANINVESTIGATIONINTOTHEPRICESOFEQUIPMENT
ANDPRODUCTSATTWOOFTHEMAJORSUPPLIERSOFSELFTANNING
MATERIALS(OWMUCHDOSPRAYGUNSANDTHELIQUIDTHEY
CONTAINCOST&INDOUTWHETHERABODYSCULPTUREPROFESSIONAL
WOULDCHARGEMOREFORASPRAYTREATMENTTHANATHERAPIST
7HYDOYOUTHINKTHEREMAYBEAPRICEDIFFERENCE7HAT
WOULDYOUEXPECTFROMTHETREATMENTS
Carrying out a skin sensitivity test
It is important that you always carry out a sensitivity test
to check the suitability of all the chosen product(s) prior
to treatment, even if the client has not informed you of
any problems with self tanners or known sensitivities. It is
advisable to carry out the sensitivity test 24 hours before the
treatment. Always carry out the sensitivity test on the inner
elbow or behind the ear and ask the client to check aer
12–24 hours for any reactions.
Reaction to the test can be immediate; clients may
experience itchiness or a burning sensation in the area.
A more common reaction involves the client developing
a prickly heat type of rash (urticaria) within 12 hours. If
this is the case, an antihistamine tablet will reduce the
inﬂammation and it is advisable not to continue with the
treatment.
Some clients may have a nut allergy and nuts are a
common ingredient in exfoliants – almond kernels for
example. Remember that it may not be the tanning
ingredients themselves that are causing the problems.
The sensitivity test can also be used to check the ﬁnished
colour, to help determine the client’s colour preference before
the treatment begins.
Contra-indications to treatment
and necessary actions if treatment
cannot go ahead
A full consultation will be used to determine the client’s
requirements of the treatment and their colour preferences,
but it should also involve a contra-indication check to ensure
that the client has no pre-existing conditions which may
restrict the treatment or prevent it from being carried out.
The severity of some conditions will determine whether the
treatment can be modiﬁed or whether it must be avoided.
The conditions below can either restrict or prevent a self
tanning treatment.
Broken or inﬂamed skin: these areas should be avoided.
There can be a risk of cross-infection if there is a viral,
bacterial or fungal infection present.
Recent sunburn, especially if the skin is inﬂamed or
irritated.
Infectious skin conditions (bacterial, viral or fungal): these
are total contra-indications and treatment should not be
carried out to avoid the spread of infection.
Non-infectious skin conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis
and dermatitis: the condition of the skin determines the
eﬀectiveness of the treatment, so areas aﬀected by these
conditions will absorb more tanning agent and dark patches
may appear. You may feel in your professional judgement
that the aﬀected area is too large and the client will not be
pleased with the end result, in which case the treatment
cannot go ahead. It is also possible that the products used
may cause further irritation to the skin.
Insulin-dependent diabetics or clients on medication
containing Retinol A or roactane: these clients may have
thinner skin, leading to a much higher risk of bruising.
Treatment can go ahead if GP approval is obtained.
Clients on steroid-based medication or having
chemotherapy may ﬁnd they develop a reaction to the
treatment and should be made aware of this.
Clients with high sensitivity or allergies may also not be
suitable for treatment.
8
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Failure of the sensitivity test with irritation present would
be a contra-indication.
Pigmentation disorders – hypopigmentation
and hyperpigmentation
Vitiligo (hypopigmentation)
Some skin conditions which are contra-indicated for a self
tanning treatment may respond well to a UV sunbed treatment,
so this may be a suitable alternative to oﬀer the client, subject
to GP approval. For example, psoriasis or eczema will not oﬀer
a smooth skin base for the self tanning products and may be
irritated by them, but the UV light in a short dose treatment on
a sunbed may actually help the healing process.
Self tanning treatments are safe for pregnant women,
although they may prefer not to have the abdomen
massaged if having a manual treatment. However, there is
an insurance risk with a pregnant client as most insurance
companies stipulate that no treatments of any kind should
be carried out in the ﬁrst three months of pregnancy because
of the risk of miscarriage, however small. Check with both
your insurer and your awarding body, if in doubt.
Hormones inﬂuence pigmentation levels within the skin, so
if the client is pregnant, on the contraceptive pill, on HRT or
going through the menopause, they may have patches of
diﬀerently-coloured skin which could aﬀect the end result.
Think about it
3TRIATIONSORSTRETCHMARKSINTHESKINMAYLEADTOAPATCHY
RESULTWHENSELFTANNING)TISADVISABLETOINFORMTHECLIENT
OFTHISALTHOUGHIFTHESKINISHEALEDTHENSTRETCHMARKSAREA
CONSIDERATIONRATHERTHANACONTRAINDICATION
Think about it
2EMEMBERTHATCLIENTSSHOULDSIGNADISCLAIMERSTATINGTHAT
THEPOSSIBLECONTRAACTIONSHAVEBEENFULLYEXPLAINEDTOTHEM
BEFORETREATMENTBEGINS
Provide self tanning services
If the client presents with any condition you feel would be
contra-indicated and you are not happy to carry out the
treatment, then you must follow your training and refuse to
treat the client. If this is necessary, you must explain tactfully
and politely why the treatment cannot be carried out, and
do recommend the client seeks advice from their own GP if
appropriate. Remember that it is not your place to comment
on possible medical conditions. You are not medically trained
and it may aﬀect your insurance cover should you choose to
oﬀer advice which later turns out to be incorrect.
Unit B25
Asthmatics may ﬁnd their condition is irritated in a spray
booth because of the ﬁne particles and limited ventilation
– do warn the client there is a possibility of an attack,
and suggest a manual application instead.
Chloasma (hyperpigmentation)
(YPOPIGMENTATION
This occurs in skin with deﬁcient, or lower than normal,
pigmentation or colouring. It can be hormonally related
or can happen as a result of the ageing process and oen
occurs in patches. While skin texture is unaﬀected, it can
make the skin look rough and be quite inhibiting for the
client. The most common form of hypopigmentation is
vitiligo (also known as leucoderma), which is characterised
by the formation of smooth, white, circumscribed
irregular patches, oen with increased pigmentation of
the surrounding skin which appears darker because of the
contrast against the lighter patches. The white patches burn
easily in the sun, as their melanin content is low or nonexistent. Vitiligo occurs chieﬂy on the hands and oen in the
elderly. Its cause is unknown, but it is most commonly found
in the tropics.
9
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
This skin colouring can be evened out by applying self
tanners but you should check with individual manufacturers
for their recommendations. The treatment can help to
disguise the lighter patches for a special occasion, giving
conﬁdence to clients who are psychologically aﬀected by the
condition.
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
(YPERPIGMENTATION
This occurs as the result of excessive pigmentation – above
the normal ratio expected for the natural colour of the skin.
The most common condition is chloasma, which is the
development of smooth irregular-shaped patches of brown
pigment. This is usually hormone-related, so may occur in
pregnancy or as a result of the increased hormone levels of
a client taking the oral contraceptive pill. As the aﬀected skin
is already dark, the only way of evening out the skin colour
is to apply tan around the dark patches and avoid the area
itself, to try and minimise the diﬀerence. Applying self tan to
the chloasma will only deepen the colour and draw attention
to the area.
Preparation of the client for
treatment
Aer a full consultation and when written consent has been
given, you will need to prepare your client for treatment.
Thoroughly cleanse the area to be treated: make-up,
creams and body lotions act as a barrier and the self tan
will not develop in those areas. It is important to cleanse
the skin before treatment, whether the client is having
self tan applied manually or in a spray booth. Ideally,
the client should shower prior to treatment, either at
home or in the salon.
Cover the hair using a protective hair covering: it is
important both to protect the hair from products used
during the self tanning treatment and also to ensure
that hair is not obscuring areas to be treated. In a spray
tanning booth, which is automatically operated, the spray
will cover all of the face – if you le the fringe over the
forehead, the product would not come into contact with
the skin in this area.
Nose plugs and eye coverings should be available in
a spray booth and clients should be asked to remove
contact lenses to avoid irritation.
All jewellery should be removed: this is to avoid it being
tarnished with product and also to give an even skin
coverage – a good end result will not include watch or
ring marks!
10
Apply a barrier cream as appropriate: in an automatic
spray booth you can ask the client to apply a barrier
cream to the hands and feet, eyebrows and nails to
prevent staining and if the client has particularly long
nails, even underneath the free edge. However, if the
spray gun is operated by a trained therapist, they will
know not to apply product on the palms of the hands or
the soles of the feet so this will not be necessary.
Ensure the client is wearing the appropriate attire: check
again that the client is happy with what they are wearing
as it will aﬀect the tan lines.
Selecting the most appropriate
products
Self tanning products
There are diﬀerent types of products available for self
tanning treatments.
Tanning creams – thick in consistency, develop over
a period of hours aer application. Creams are easily
absorbed, so do not need to be rubbed into the skin.
They should be stroked onto the skin in a sweeping
movement. There are many good creams on the market
and they tend to suit most skin types. It is better to use
a tinted cream, as opposed to a white cream, for ease
of application, as you can see where you have put the
product.
Tanning gels – gels are ideal for the client who prefers
a product that is lighter and slightly thinner in texture.
Be wary of spreading the gel too thinly and not getting
enough coverage for an even tan. Again, it is best to use
a tinted product for ease of application and to avoid the
risk of overlapping and causing uneven coverage.
Tanning mousse – light, foamy texture; quick-drying;
normally applied using an aerosol can. The product
becomes liquid in contact with the skin and is very
easy to apply. Most bronzing mousses are infused with
moisturisers such as aloe vera to help the condition of
the skin. A good application technique is required to
ensure an even ﬁnish and you should buﬀ with a mitt to
ensure no lines are le aer application.
Spray tan liquid – liquid products for use with a spray
gun; available in a variety of shades. Most manufacturers
of spray gun systems recommend their own liquid and
you may ﬁnd that if you try an alternative to the one
recommended, it does not come out of the nozzle evenly
or causes blockages in the spray gun.
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Moisturisers – an essential part of the treatment to
smooth the surface of the skin and help retain moisture.
If patches of the skin are too dry, they will absorb
more self tanning products leading to an uneven
ﬁnish. Moisturisers are usually an emulsion of oils and
waxes such as coconut or jojoba oil. Creams contain
approximately 60 per cent water, which re-hydrates
the skin, and oils and waxes condition and improve the
skin’s natural water barrier. Some oils such as jojoba oil
prevent water loss, so are ideal ingredients.
Other tanning consumables include:
shower gels with built in exfoliators and moisturisers
twenty-four hour moisturisers enhanced with antioxidants, vitamins and skin nutrients, which can be
used daily aer bathing to keep tanned skin supple and
smooth
moisturising tan extenders which, applied daily and
aer each exfoliation, can be used to extend the life of a
sunless tan
tan removers which, if used immediately aer the self
tan application, can remove product from areas where
it should not be and blend any hard edges to ensure a
natural look.
Choosing the right method for application of self tanning
products will depend upon several factors:
the time the client has for treatment
client preference
the type of result required, such as body sculpting for
muscular deﬁnition.
Manual application
This is the most labour intensive – and oen the most
expensive – of the tanning treatments. The therapist will
perform a full exfoliation of face and body with products
and mitts, remove the exfoliant, moisturise the skin all over
and then smooth on the tanning products before buﬃng and
polishing speciﬁc areas, such as elbows, knees and ankles.
The idea is to coat the skin using light, stroking movements,
so that the skin absorbs the solution. The tan will develop
over 6–8 hours depending upon the products used and the
depth of colour preferred. Treatment for a full body can take
up to an hour, but it is very relaxing and the ﬁnished result is
professional looking. It is usual for a full body tan to include
the breasts, most of the buttocks and the underarm area to
avoid any demarcation lines.
Spray booth application
This type of tanning treatment takes place in a sealed booth,
so is ideal for clients who are quite shy about their body
and want privacy. The booth is made of ﬁbreglass, acrylic
or aluminium, with a large compressor and a ﬁxed panel
with a series of nozzles. The nozzles dispense the self tan
automatically, spraying it up and down the body so that
the client is misted with a ﬁne solution. Most booths are
designed to produce a downward ﬂow of air which pushes
any remaining mist to the ﬂoor pan and the ﬁlter system
within the booth. There is oen a ventilation system in
the back of the machine to help blow-dry the body and to
prevent the skin becoming too wet with solution.
Unit B25
Exfoliators – an essential part of the treatment to help
slough oﬀ dead skin cells and prepare the skin for self
tanning products. They contain abrasive powders such
as ﬁnely-ground olive stones, nuts, oatmeal, corn cob
powder or synthetic micro-beads. Exfoliants come in
many commercial forms: powder, which must be mixed
with water, ready-made paste, or in a suspension (with
water) that can be used on the face or body. Most body
applications tend to be slightly coarser in texture.
Methods of application
Provide self tanning services
Barrier cream – for application prior to treatment to
prevent tan solution getting onto areas that would not
naturally tan, such as the palms of the hands, between
the ﬁngers, the soles of the feet and between the toes.
An experienced tan therapist may not need to use barrier
cream, but it can help when you ﬁrst start practising. It
is a good idea to use barrier cream with an automated
spray tan booth which may not be operated with a
therapist to hand. Always follow the recommendations
for use of barrier cream and ensure you only apply it
where needed.
The cubicle will have a self cleaning system which washes
away excess product and keeps the booth hygienic for each
client. This method is dependent upon the client being fully
prepared so they know to turn around, and to hold certain
positions to allow the product to get under the arms and
under the chin. Generally, this is a high speed treatment,
lasting 1–12 minutes depending upon the type used.
11
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Airbrush application
Some manufacturers make turbine-type spray tanning
systems using a turbine motor rather than a compressor.
These are louder than compressors but produce a higher
volume of air ﬂow at a lower pressure (HVLP). Check with
individual manufacturers which one is most suitable for your
business needs – the smaller units are ideal for a mobile
therapist but if you are in a salon you will need a larger,
heavy-duty type of machine.
Either way, this method allows for a more personal service
and can be used for both body sculpting and muscle
deﬁnition. It has also been used for body painting and
artiﬁcial tattooing.
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
The skin is immediately coloured and then the colour
deepens as the product develops. As it is controlled by the
therapist, it allows for a more precise application than an
automatic booth and a skilled technician can deliver a body
spray in about 15–20 minutes, including both the front and
back of the body. You will need to allow drying time so the
complete treatment takes approximately 30 minutes. This
application requires more skill on the part of the therapist to
ensure an even application. The spray gun needs to be kept
at a regular distance from the client and should be moved
smoothly without lingering for too long in one area.
Which method to choose?
The method chosen will depend on the client’s needs and
personal preferences, and the available time.
Airbrush application
This type of tanning treatment is performed by a therapist
while the client stands in a booth or pod. The therapist holds
an airbrush pen linked to a bottle of liquid product, with a
long ﬂexible tube attached to an air compressor to push the
product into the nozzle in order to deliver a ﬁne mist of spray
onto the client’s skin. This device was originally designed for
paint-spraying systems. The most common system used is
HVLP, which stands for high volume low pressure.
Most compressed air machines have a gauge to adjust the
psi reading. This is a measurement of air pressure – psi =
pounds per square inch. For a small spray tanning unit you
will only need a machine with a psi of 100 or less, but
it depends upon what type of equipment you buy. Some
bigger machines used in car spraying and industrial work
go very much higher and would be too powerful for tanning
application. Always check with your individual manufacturer’s
instructions.
12
The equipment you have available to you will depend
upon whether you are in a large salon – with the capital to
invest in bigger equipment and the space to house a booth
or pod – or if you are self-employed, mobile or part of a
smaller salon. Equipment varies enormously in price and a
smaller salon or self-employed therapist may feel that the
investment in equipment is not appropriate for their market.
Some therapists prefer to apply self tan by hand for a more
personal treatment, including thorough preparation of the
skin, but those who prefer spray tanning would highlight the
speed with which you can complete treatments making it
more proﬁtable.
Whichever method you go for, it is important to consider any
contra-indications identiﬁed during the client consultation and
the cost implications of the diﬀerent treatments.
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Apply self tan products
In this section you will learn about:
The process of self tanning
Exfoliating products
Self tanning application is a three-step process:
Exfoliation
2
Moisturising
3
Application of tanning agents.
Performing one step without the others will result in an
uneven colour distribution, patchy colour appearing at the
natural creases of the body, such as elbows and knees, or an
accumulation of darker colour where there are dry or rough
patches of skin.
Surface of skin
Horny layer
Provide self tanning services
1
Clear or lucid layer
Granular layer
Exfoliation
Cells in the epidermis are continually renewing themselves,
beginning at the germinal layer, resting upon the basal
membrane, and then moving upwards to the horny top layer
of the epidermis. Dead, ﬂat cells are then rubbed away via
friction caused by everyday actions, such as using a towel,
getting dressed and even scratching the skin. This process
is called desquamation or exfoliation. Getting rid of the old
cells allows new ones to come up to the surface, keeping the
skin healthy and able to ﬁght infection.
Skin should be smooth and free from dry, ﬂaky skin before a
self tanning treatment. Exfoliation is essential to ensure that:
the surface of the skin is clean, grease-free and that no
soap ﬁlm is le on the skin, all of which will prevent the
self tan penetrating evenly
Prickle cell layer
Germinating layer
Unit B25
sTHEPROCESSOFSELFTANNING
sEXFOLIATION
sMOISTURISING
sSELFTANNINGAGENTS
sTECHNIQUESOFAPPLICATION
sCORRECTIONSANDTHElNISHEDRESULTS
sMAINTENANCEOFSELFTANNINGEQUIPMENT
sPOTENTIALRISKSWITHSELFTANNINGEQUIPMENT
sPOSSIBLECONTRAACTIONSAFTERTREATMENT
Live
nuclei
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The process of desquamation in the cells of the epidermis
13
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
the cells about to leave are accelerated on their way, so
that the tan lasts as long as possible. If the tan lasts as
long as the life cycle of an epidermal cell, then it makes
most sense to stain the cells with the longest life span,
not the ones about to ﬂake away – this is the reason a
tan only lasts for a short time on some clients.
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
Exfoliant
Description and effects
!LOEBARBADENSIS
LEAFJUICE
!COMPOUNDEXPRESSEDFROMTHELEAFOF
THEALOEPLANTA3OUTH!FRICANLILYLIKE
PLANTOFWHICHTHEREARESPECIES
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INCLUDEDINCREAMSETC
!CHILLEA
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HERBUSEDFORITSASTRINGENTPROPERTIESTO
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KEEPSTHESKINSOFTANDCLEAN
!MMONIUM
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4HEAMMONIUMSALTOFLAURYLSULPHATEIS
DERIVEDFROMNATURALCOCONUTOILS!MILD
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OILSFORITSSKINHEALINGPROPERTIES
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Moisturising
Moisturising creams can be used morning and evening
depending upon skin type and the cream used. They contain
oils and waxes which have a soening eﬀect on dry skins
and are especially good for skin in dry conditions or when
the skin must cope with regular temperature imbalances; for
example moving from very cold weather to central heating.
Moisturiser is essential prior to self tanning to smooth and
nourish dry areas, such as the feet, ankles, elbows and
knees, to ensure an even coating of the tanning agent. The
colour is oen too dark in these areas because the dry skin
absorbs more product and is not able to be smoothed out as
in other areas. Some companies recommend mixing a little
moisturiser in with the tanning agent when applying to dry
areas, to dilute the colour slightly for a more natural eﬀect.
This can give a soer tan on the face, too. Dry skin oils have
the same eﬀect and provide a certain amount of ‘slip’ on the
skin’s surface, allowing a more even application.
Think about it
4HEMOSTCOMMONTIMEFORCLIENTSTOASKABOUTSELFTANNING
TREATMENTSISINTHESPRING5NFORTUNATELYWINTERISTHESEASON
WHENTHESKINISMOSTNEGLECTEDnITISOFTENHIDDENUNDER
WINTERCLOTHINGWITHLITTLEORNOMOISTUREAPPLICATIONTOHELP
KEEPITSUPPLE3OALOTOFMOISTURISERMAYBEREQUIREDATTHIS
TIMEOFYEARTOPREPTHESKINFORASELFTANNINGTREATMENT
Moisturising ingredient
Description and effects
&RAGRANCE
#ITRUSORANGEmOWERLAVENDERORSIMILAR
PLANTOILSGIVETHEPRODUCTAPLEASANT
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7ATERANDWATERSOLUBLE
INGREDIENTS
#REAMSCONTAINAPPROXIMATELY
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!NEMULSIONOFOILSAND
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IMPROVETHESKINSNATURALWATER
BARRIER3OMEOILSSUCHASJOJOBA
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IDEALMOISTURISINGINGREDIENT
Typical ingredients found in exfoliators
Continued
14
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ANDWATER
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APPEALFOREXAMPLECOCONUTOIL
HASAVERYDISTINCTIVESMELLTHAT
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4HESEGIVEAVELVETYFEELTO
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EMULSIONSOINTMENTSAND
COSMETICCREAMS
Tanning ingredient
Description and effects
$IHYDROXYACETONE
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!SUGARTYPESUBSTANCEFROMSUGAR
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COLOURINTHESAMEWAYASANAPPLE
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WASDEVELOPEDTOWORKASANOVELSKIN
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EMULSIONS#ANBEUSEDASANANTI
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!LSOFOUNDINDEPILATORYCREAMSHAIR
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Common ingredients found in moisturisers
Self tanning agents
Modern tanning agents are tinted so that application is
visible and therefore easier. Early self tanning agents had a
rather pungent odour which has since been improved, and
application has become much easier, both for home use and
in the salon. Remember that individual companies will have
their own particular emollients and colorants, so check the
manufacturer’s instructions for all products that you use.
The tint of the cream will not always be an indication of
the colour when it fully develops; it is more of an aid to
application, rather than a colour chart for the tan. Self
tanning products vary in viscosity, colour and form, but their
active ingredients are always the same.
Provide self tanning services
%MULSIlERS
Unit B25
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Ingredients found in tanning agents
15
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Techniques of application
Manual application for facial tanning – step-by-step guide
1
Thoroughly cleanse the face, neck and décolleté area.
2
Tone and blot.
3 Apply gentle facial exfoliators, working in small circular
motions all over the area. Remove and blot.
Moisturise with the appropriate lotion and apply extra product
around the eyebrows and hair line to dilute the tanning product and
prevent a build-up of unnatural colour. Heavy moisturiser can act as
a barrier to self tan so only use the product supplied by the tanning
manufacturer.
4
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
Apply the tanning product at full strength to the face or, if a
lighter colour is preferred, mix with moisturiser to dilute the eﬀect
slightly.
5
6 Rub lightly along the hair line. You might like to use a cosmetic
sponge for more control of the product. Remember to do the back of
the neck to the hair line – nothing looks worse than a ‘tide mark’ of
colour diﬀerence when the client wants to wear her hair up.
7 Allow the product to dry for 15–20 minutes before the client
puts his or her clothes back on. Recommend the client ‘sleeps’ in
the product or leaves it on for at least four hours before showering.
8 Aer showering, the tan should be enhanced by moisturising
the skin.
9
The ﬁnished result is a glowing, tanned face.
1
2
3
4
5
6
(Images courtesy of Fake Bake UK Ltd)
Think about it
s!PPLICATIONPROCEDURESMAYALTERSLIGHTLYDEPENDINGUPONTHEINDIVIDUALMANUFACTURERSINSTRUCTIONS
s7EARGLOVESWHENAPPLYINGSELFTANNINGPRODUCTSOTHERWISEYOURHANDSWILLGRADUALLYBECOMETANNED
s2EMEMBERTHATALITTLESELFTANNINGPRODUCTGOESALONGWAY
16
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Manual application for body tanning – step-by-step guide
2
Remove excess exfoliator with warm towels.
3
Turn client on their front and repeat exfoliating process.
Lightly moisturise with the appropriate product and pay
special attention to the elbows, ankles, knees and feet so that the
tanning product does not build up in the natural creases of the skin
and appear darker. If preferred, mix a little tanning product with
moisturiser and apply over these areas for a lighter colour.
4
5 Using gloves, apply the tanning product, starting from the
neck down and working in small circular motions (as you would
moisturiser).
6 Working down the torso on to the legs, lightly glaze the product
over the ankles.
7 Turn the client over. Ensure that knees are bent upwards with
feet ﬂat on the bed. Starting with the feet, apply product working
upwards this time, again lightly glazing over the knees. Give a
thorough application to the larger areas such as the back.
8 When working on the hands, elbows and feet, spray dry oil on
the area or mix tanning products with moisturiser before applying.
This will emulsify the tanning product and help to smooth it over
any dry areas. Never apply tanning products to the palms, or the
soles of the feet, as this is not a natural place for a tan. Apply a
little moisturiser or oil on the hand and work the self tan into the
back of the hands, avoiding the area between the ﬁngers.
9 The ﬁnished result, aer 24 hours development time, a shower
and a body moisturising application, is a lovely, natural colour.
2
4
5
7
8
Provide self tanning services
1
Unit B25
1 With the client on their back, exfoliate the skin. With a cupped
hand, mix exfoliators with a little water. Starting with the feet,
apply exfoliator in circular motions working up the client’s legs and
body, paying particular attention to the feet, knees and elbows.
(Images courtesy of Fake Bake UK Ltd)
17
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Application for vitiligo – step-by-step guide
1 Apply the full-strength self tan to the lighter areas as thickly as
possible. Moisturiser will make the tanning agent lighter; apply with
a cotton bud to the darker edges if necessary.
2 Allow product to dry for approximately 10 minutes. Do not
worry if it looks streaky at this stage.
3
Allow time for product to develop, ideally overnight.
4 Wash oﬀ the guide colour. If the tan is not dark enough, repeat
approximately every 8 hours until the correct strength is achieved.
5 Finally, mix the self tan and the moisturiser together and apply
to the full body to achieve an even skin tone.
1
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
18
1
(Images courtesy of Fake Bake UK Ltd)
Self tanning in an automatic spray booth – step-by-step guide
1
2
Ensure the client is aware of the importance of following the
instructions given prior to going into the booth – this oen
includes applying barrier cream to the hands and feet, or
covering the feet to avoid getting an unnatural tan.
Remember to instruct the client that whatever they are wearing
will also be sprayed with the tanning mist, but it will usually
wash out of fabrics made of cotton. Discourage the client from
wearing their favourite or expensive swimwear if they are unsure
of the fabric as you cannot totally guarantee that all DHA
solution will wash oﬀ. Clients oen prefer to tan nude to ensure
a full body colour and to avoid any strap marks; because the
booth is private, it is ﬁne for them to do this. Remember to ask
if they have had a recent intimate waxing treatment; the tanning
solution can irritate the delicate skin around the genitals.
3
Hair should be covered in the plastic cap provided but with a
little of the hair line exposed so that the tan goes right up to it.
4
Nasal plugs should be inserted to avoid inhalation of the mist
and eye goggles put in place. This treatment may not be
suitable for anyone who is claustrophobic or asthmatic.
5
Ask the client to step into the booth and face the nozzles lining
the feet up with the indicators on the ﬂoor.
6
The controls are manual and can be pushed in or the dial turned
depending upon the machine.
7
Instruct the client to take up four poses to allow the spray to
cover all areas of the body, including under the chin.
8
Ask the client to step out of the booth and give aercare
instructions.
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
1
Some machines come with a small turntable, rather like a cake
stand, which the client stands on so they can rotate around the
therapist, rather than the other way around.
4
Remember to ask the client to stretch out the skin if they have
folds of adipose tissue along the back or under the bust line as
the product will not spray onto the skin underneath.
2
Always wear PPE and gloves and test the equipment on yourself,
following the manufacturer’s instructions, to ensure it is safe and
functioning correctly. Switch on the compressor and adjust the
pressure to suit the area – you need a constant ﬁne mist rather
than a heavy concentration as this will over wet the skin. Once
you start blotting areas to dry them you cannot guarantee the
evenness, so it is best to avoid the need to do this.
5
When spraying the arms, ask the client to stretch out the skin
and remember that the top of the arm naturally tans darker than
the inner arm. Reduce the pressure of the spray and increase
the distance from the inner arm, but do coat it lightly to prevent
a tan line. Ask the client to stand with their arm extended and
bent at the elbow to ensure that the armpit perimeter is coated,
but not the armpit itself.
3
Most manufacturers recommend you begin with the legs as they
take the longest to dry – remember to ask the client to stretch
out at the ankle to avoid lines. Increasing the distance from the
skin will give a lighter application – ankles, backs of knees
and elbows require less product, as they are not naturally
darkened with a suntan. Remember that the idea is to
create a natural look.
6
When carrying out the facial application, ask the client to close
their eyes, breathe in and then gently exhale through the nose
with the mouth closed as you work down the face – this will
prevent them from inhaling any of the mist. You must be quick
and even with your application.
7
Ensure that the ﬁnish is as natural as possible – lighter in the
ear, neck and under the chin.
4
5
Provide self tanning services
3
Unit B25
Air brush application of self tan – step-by-step guide
(Images courtesy of Fake Bake UK Ltd)
19
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Salon life
Arietta’s story
Hi, my name is Arietta. I’ve been a tanning therapist for about six months
now. My favourite method of application is the spray gun, because it is quick
and you get such good results. A few weeks ago, I learned a valuable lesson
in client care when I carried out a treatment on a middle-aged lady who was
going to her daughter’s wedding in the Caribbean.
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
20
Fortunately, I recommended a practice run about a month before they were all
due to travel out for the wedding. The treatment went ﬁne but aer the client
stepped out of the pod, I realised I really needed the loo. I gave the client the
impregnated cleaning tissue to use on the palms of her hands and her feet –
so that they wouldn’t go dark – and excused myself. When I came back my
client was dressed and ready to pay for her treatment.
Unfortunately she came back two days later to complain about the terribly patchy colour on her arms. It was just
awful, I couldn’t understand it. Eventually I asked the client about the impregnated tissue she’d used aer the
treatment and whether she’d used it anywhere apart from her hands and feet. She told me that her arms were a
little bit wet, so she wiped the towel over them to dry them oﬀ. The penny dropped – she had wiped oﬀ most of the
colour, hence the patchy ﬁnish.
I should have been there to stop her – the skin needs a few moments to dry and set the tan prior to the clothes going
on and the wipes are only for the hands and feet. I re-explained the aercare and told her that I was at fault. My
salon manager gave the client another tanning treatment for free. I’m so relieved that I had convinced the client to
have a trial treatment prior to the wedding. I had to contribute to the cost of the repeat treatment and I have never
le a client unattended again.
Top tips
ř 1SFQBSBUJPOQSFQBSBUJPOQSFQBSBUJPO*GUIFTLJOTVSGBDF
is not primed and smooth the end result will be
disappointing. Ask the client to exfoliate and moisturise
at least twice a week prior to the appointment, to help
make the salon treatment more eﬀective.
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used, to make sure the client has no allergic reactions.
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of tanning product and then build it up than to over
apply and have to blend excess product.
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product more thinly over knees, ankles and elbows.
Blend the product to avoid tide marks.
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neck and the ears to avoid tide marks should the client
choose to wear her hair up.
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them appear more pronounced. Check that the client
understands this before proceeding with the treatment.
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involve going over the breasts. Remember that the skin in
this area is ﬁner and more sensitive, so be gentle and apply
products lightly.
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Tanning products can accumulate here and leave a brown
ring around the nail plate.
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avoid a line where skin folds naturally occur.
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not rush the client – that is how mistakes are made in
application.
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dressed.
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from the clothing rubbing oﬀ the tan before it has had
time to develop. Tanning products should not come oﬀ on
clothing, but darker colours are still advisable.
Aer a spray tan, the client can wipe the palms of their hands
and in between the ﬁngers with an impregnated wipe to avoid
a build up of colour, which can make the tan appear artiﬁcial.
Method of
application
Maintenance and care of equipment
!IRBRUSH
SYSTEMS
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s!LLSEMICONSUMABLESMUSTBEWASHEDAND
DISPOSABLEITEMSSAFELYDISPOSEDOF
If manual application has taken place, the therapist can buﬀ
with a mitt or sponge and work the areas in need of a thinner
application such as the hands, elbows, knees and feet to
ensure a natural ﬁnish.
Use a cotton bud over the eyebrows to remove any excess
product and wipe around the inside of the ear to remove any
product present. Ensure that the product is completely dry
before the client dresses.
Maintenance of self tanning
equipment
All equipment should be le clean and sterile, ready for the
next treatment, to avoid cross-contamination and to help
keep the equipment working smoothly.
Method of
application
Maintenance and care of equipment
-ANUAL
APPLICATION
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PREVENTTHEMBECOMINGCLOGGEDANDGIVING
ANUNEVENAPPLICATION
Maintenance and care of tanning equipment
Potential risks with self tanning
equipment
Equipment
or hazard
Potential risk
!IR
COMPRESSOR
4HEMOSTCOMMONRISKSASSOCIATEDWITH
COMPRESSORSARENOISEPOLLUTIONTHERISKOF
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COMPRESSORINAREASWITHmAMMABLEGASES
VAPOURSOREXPLOSIVEDUSTINTHEAIR0RODUCTS
FOUNDINTHESALONSUCHASSOLVENTCLEANERS
ORAEROSOLSPRAYSCONTAINmAMMABLEGASES
ORVAPOURS!LWAYSKEEPTHECOMPRESSORAREA
WELLVENTILATEDANDKEEPTHEUNITSTOREDTHE
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SYSTEMSHAVEAIRCOMPRESSORSWITHINTHEMAND
SOCOMEUNDERThe Pressure Systems Safety
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!IRSPRAY
UNIT
2EPETITIVESTRAININJURYISACOMMONRISKWITH
FREQUENTUSEOFTHEEQUIPMENTBECAUSEOF
THEDEXTERITYREQUIREDINTHElNGERSHANDS
ANDARMS2EGULARUSECOULDALSOSTIMULATE
CARPALTUNNELSYNDROMEIFTHETHERAPISTWERE
SUSCEPTIBLE
-ANUAL
HANDLING
4HEAUTOMATICBOOTHSREQUIRELARGEDRUMSOF
PRODUCTWHICHMUSTBEREPLACEDREGULARLY
4HESECANWEIGHUPTOKGSOTHEREISTHERISK
OFANACCIDENTORINJURYIFTHECONTAINERSHAVETO
BECARRIEDDOWNSTEPSOROVERANYDISTANCE
7ASTE
DISPOSAL
!TRADEEFmUENTWASTELICENCEISREQUIREDBYSOME
LOCALAUTHORITIESFORDRAININGOFEXCESSTANNING
SOLUTIONWHENITBUILDSUPINTHEmOORTRAY
Provide self tanning services
Corrections and the ﬁnished
results
Unit B25
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Continued
21
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
Equipment
or hazard
Potential risk
3LIPSTRIPS
4HEREISPOTENTIALFORTHECLIENTTOSLIPONA
LIQUIDASITSETTLESONTHEmOORFROMTHEMIST
ESPECIALLYIFTHEREISINADEQUATEVENTILATION
ANDDRYINGTIME4HEUSEOFNONSLIPmOORING
ANDREGULARCLEANINGOFTHEBOOTHISESSENTIAL
BETWEENCLIENTSTOMINIMISETHERISK
%LECTRIC
SHOCK
)NANAUTOMATICBOOTHTHECHECKINGOFPRESSURE
GAUGESmUIDTANKLEVELSANDCLEANINGMAY
REQUIREATHERAPISTTOACCESSAREASUNDERNEATH
THEOUTERCASINGOFTHEBOOTH4HISHASTHE
POTENTIALFORHARMVIAELECTRICSHOCKnONLY
COMPETENTTRAINEDPERSONNELSHOULDBEABLETO
ACCESSTHEAREAS
,EGIONELLA
BACTERIA
!SMOSTSPRAYBOOTHSHAVEANAUTOMATIC
WASHCYCLEAFTEREACHCLIENTTHEREISARISKOF
,EGIONELLABACTERIAACCUMULATINGINTHESTORAGE
WATERTANKSINSIDETHEUNIT4HISWOULDMEAN
THATBACTERIAWOULDTHENPOTENTIALLYBESPREAD
THROUGHTHESPRAYINGMECHANISM4HEWATER
SHOULDBEREGULARLYCHECKEDFORBACTERIAJUST
ASITWOULDBEINASPAOR*ACUZZIANDAFULLRISK
ASSESSMENTCARRIEDOUTBYTRAINEDPERSONS
#HEMICAL
SAFETY
)NGESTIONORINHALATIONOFTHETANNINGPRODUCTS
DURINGAUTOMATICDISTRIBUTIONHASTHEPOTENTIAL
TOCAUSEHARMANDWOULDLEADTONAUSEA
VOMITINGDIGESTIVEIRRITATIONANDDIARRHOEA
!LWAYSREADTHESAFETYDATASHEETSFROMTHE
SUPPLIERANDMAKESURETHAT#/3((SHEETSARE
lLLEDOUTANDEASILYAVAILABLE
6ENTILATION
"OTHTHETHERAPISTANDTHECLIENTAREATRISKFROM
INHALATIONOFTHESPRAYPARTICLESWHENINSTALLING
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CONSIDERATION!LLAUTOMATICBOOTHSHAVEA
DOWNWARDmOWOFAIRAROUNDTHECLIENTSOTHAT
ANYEXCESSPARTICLESWILLBEDRAWNDOWNWARDS
ANDCAPTUREDINTHElLTERSANDDRAINTHUS
REDUCINGTHEPROBABILITYOFINHALATION!LWAYS
ENSURETHATlLTERSANDTHEEXTRACTIONSYSTEMARE
REGULARLYMAINTAINEDBYACOMPETENTPERSON
!LWAYSMAKESUREWHENINSTALLINGTHEMACHINE
THEREISENOUGHROOMWITHINTHESALONFOR
CORRECTNATURALVENTILATION
4RAINING
)TISIMPORTANTTHATALLSTAFFAREFULLYTRAINEDIN
THEUSEOFTHETANNINGEQUIPMENTINTHEIRSALON
THATTHEYFOLLOWMANUFACTURERSINSTRUCTIONS
ANDAPPLYALLHEALTHANDSAFETYKNOWLEDGETO
THEIRTREATMENTS
(Source: based on information provided by Fylde Borough Council)
22
Possible contra-actions aer
treatment
A full contra-indication check as part of a thorough
consultation will help minimise the risk of a contra-action
aer treatment. You should have checked whether the client
has any allergies and performed a sensitivity test to check
whether the client is likely to react to any of the products
being used. However, there is a small risk that the following
reactions may occur:
skin irritation or inﬂammation
swelling in the area
burning or itching (urticaria)
watery eyes
coughing through inhalation of the product
fainting.
These reactions may occur for a number of reasons and a
client can develop a reaction to any product, even if they
have been using it for years. If the client has been on certain
medication, especially hormonal-based drugs such as the
contraceptive pill or HRT, antibiotics or steroids, it can upset
the acid mantle on the skin and cause skin irritation.
An adverse eﬀect may also be caused by the self tanning
products reacting with other products that the client has
recently used, such as hair dye or a body product used
at home. Hair removal cream or even a diﬀerent type of
washing powder may be enough to trigger irritation with
a tanning product. Oen it is the combination of the two
products that causes a reaction, rather than the self tanning
product on its own.
Be especially cautious with asthmatics when using a booth to
ensure they do not inhale the spray mist. It is also important
to ask the client when they last had something to eat – some
clients who have not eaten recently are more prone to fainting
when asked to stand still for a period of time, especially if
blood sugar levels are low, or if they are a diabetic.
Always explain potential contra-actions before you begin the
treatment and explain what the client should do if a reaction
occurs. Mild irritation can also be soothed by the application
of a cool compress to the area, or some cooling cream –
such as an aer-wax lotion or an antiseptic cream purchased
over the counter from a chemist. Creams designed for bites
and skin rashes normally contain a mild antihistamine. If
you are in any doubt about the client’s health or the nature
of their reaction, the client should see their GP or a trained
medical professional.
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
sAFTERCAREADVICEANDRECOMMENDATIONSIMMEDIATELYAFTER
TREATMENT
sHOMECAREANDPRODUCTSTOAVOID
sSUITABLEFOLLOWONTREATMENTSAFTERSELFTANNING
Aercare advice and
recommendations immediately
aer treatment
Aer a self tanning treatment, you should give your client
the following advice to ensure they get the best results and a
long-lasting tan.
Allow at least 4 hours for the colour to develop – ideally
the tan should develop overnight.
Do not get the skin wet for at least 6–8 hours aer
treatment – clients should avoid showering or bathing
during this time.
Avoid swimming aer treatment – if this is not possible,
the client should shower oﬀ the chlorine and moisturise
immediately to prevent the chlorine from bleaching
the tan.
Do not apply deodorant or cosmetics while the colour
guide is on.
Do not have any other treatments on the same day.
Avoid activity that will induce perspiration during the
development time.
Wear loose clothing and footwear during the
development time – restrictive clothing may aﬀect the
end colour as it can cause friction and the loss of skin
cells, leading to a patchy result.
Post treatment restrictions
To help the client maximise the life of their self tan, you can
oﬀer advice on the correct skincare procedures to follow.
Avoid using exfoliators which will speed up the shedding
of the skin cells and take the tan with it. Even a rough
towel will have this eﬀect, so aer a shower the client
should be advised to pat the body dry rather than
creating friction by rubbing.
Do not wax the skin – the skin cells carrying the tan will
be lost.
Colour on the face is the ﬁrst to fade so advise the client
to choose gentle cleansers and to avoid face masks and
salon treatments.
Home care and products to avoid
Clients should be given advice about products they can use
at home and those they should avoid.
In order for clients to maintain their tan, they should
not use soap-based products on the skin while they are
tanning. The alkaline in these products may make the
tan go patchy. A ﬂannel with warm water is all that is
required or clients can use a moisturising body wash or
cream shower gel which are more gentle on the skin.
Avoid using exfoliators – they will accelerate the
shedding process of the cells which are coated in the tan
and mean that the tan will be lost very quickly.
Do encourage the client to use skin care products such
as body oil or moisturising cream daily as this will help
to prolong the life of the tan. The oil will keep the skin
moisturised and lock the tan into the layers of the skin,
preventing premature shedding.
Bath oil or additives will also help the skin stay rehydrated
and therefore slow down the rate of shedding. The more a
client moisturises, the longer the tan will last.
Consecutive treatments will darken the tan – but do tell
the client that if they apply their own tanning lotions on
top of a salon one you cannot guarantee a colour match
or the evenness of application as there may be a buildup of product on the skin. It is better to encourage the
client to come back for regular treatments, to ensure that
the same products are used.
Unit B25
In this section you will learn about:
Do not have several self tanning sessions too close
together. This could result in a build-up of product in
some areas causing the tan to look patchy.
Provide self tanning services
Provide aercare advice
Other products available
Most companies oﬀer a selection of tanning enhancers to
help prolong a tan and give an extra glow to the skin. These
include bronzing blushers, face powders containing shimmer
beads, and lipsticks and nail varnishes. Shades of bronze,
brown, peach and pink can enhance a tan but use bronzing
products lightly to avoid making the skin look ‘sweaty’.
A light dusting over the cheeks to highlight is all that is
required. Skin glisteners are rich, moist shimmering lotions
which replenish, moisten and buﬀ up the existing tan.
23
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
Tan-enhancing make-up can give an extra glow to the skin
Wedding
recommendations
Holiday
recommendations
Special occasion
recommendations
s7AXING
INCLUDING
INTIMATE
s"ODYlRMING
s-ANICUREAND
PEDICURE
s%YEBROWSHAPING
s3PECIALISTMAKE
UP
s&ACIALSTOGETSKIN
INPEAKCONDITION
s0AMPERSESSION
FORTHEWORKS
PERHAPSASAHEN
PACKAGEFORTHE
WHOLEWEDDING
PARTY
s7AXINGFULL
BODY
s"ODYlRMING
ANDLIFTING
MICROCURRENT
s-ANICUREAND
PEDICURE
s%YELASHTINTING
s"ODYBRUSHING
ANDEXFOLIATION
s&ARADIC
TREATMENTS
s"ODYWRAPS
s-AKEUPLESSON
TOENHANCETHE
CHOSENOUTlT
s-ANICUREAND
PEDICURE
s%YEBROWWAXING
s7AXINGBODY
s.ONSURGICALFACE
LIFTING
s&ACIALS
s-ASSAGEASA
PAMPERGIFT
Suitable follow-on treatments
aer self tanning
All of the above treatments also present a retail opportunity
for you to recommend the products the client will need to
enhance the eﬀects of the treatments at home. For example,
you may recommend a cleanser, toner and moisturiser for
the face, specialist body creams, nail colours, hand cream or
even bath oils and serums.
There is plenty of scope aer a self tanning treatment to
recommend further salon treatments to the client, both to
enhance the tan but also to link into any events that the
client may have booked the self tanning session for, such as
a wedding, holiday or special occasion.
Always ensure your client goes away with a full price list
and an explanation of the treatments that you carry out in
the salon. This will give them a full idea of the costing and
beneﬁts of these treatments as this will vary from salon to
salon and depending upon your area.
These products should be used sparingly as they can
produce a harsh tone in the skin and create an artiﬁcial look.
Getting ready for assessment
Obviously with such a practical skill, you will not be allowed any simulation for this unit.
Your assessor will expect to see both a spray tan and a manual application of tan and you will be assessed on a minimum
of three diﬀerent clients, over a period of time. This is such a popular treatment that you should have no trouble getting
clients for these treatments!
Do ensure that you use at least four of the six products in the ranges – you will deﬁnitely be using exfoliators, moisturisers
and spray tanning liquid for the spray gun but it depends on which system your college uses as to whether you try tanning
creams or gels. There is a wide range of products available on the market. It is also a good idea to practise application of
tanning on yourself so that you get used to the process and the preparation required for a smooth application. To start with,
try the tanning preparations that have colour in them so that you can see where you have applied them as you go. Bad
tanning application can look awful – you only need to check the celebrity magazines for dark faces with pale hands, or dark
knees on golden legs. A good self tan application should look natural and give a glow to the face and body. It really is a
case of practice makes perfect!
24
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Check your knowledge
3 Which of the following is a possible contra-indication to
a tanning treatment?
a) Vitiligo
b) Leucoderma
c) Bacterial skin conditions
d) Freckles
4 Jojoba oil is a common ingredient found in:
a) moisturisers
b) tanning agents
c) exfoliators
d) blushers.
5 The active ingredient for a tanning product is:
a) AHA
b) DHA
c) DNA
d) NBG.
7 The three key steps to a successful tanning
application are:
a) cleanse, tone and moisturise
b) wash, tan and rinse
c) exfoliate, moisturise and tan
d) soak, spray and dry.
8 A spray gun mechanism uses:
a) a battery
b) an engine
c) a turbo charger
d) a compressor.
9 Legionella bacteria can be found in:
a) moisturisers
b) water tanks
c) spray guns
d) all of the above.
10 For home care you should recommend that your
client avoids using:
a) soap-based products
b) acid-based products
c) oil-based products
d) water-based products.
Unit B25
2 Tanning agents are a form of:
a) vegetable dye
b) clothing dye
c) make-up dye
d) ﬂoral dye.
6 Panthenol is found in skincare products and
shampoos and is a form of:
a) vitamin C complex
b) vitamin B complex
c) vitamin A complex
d) vitamin D complex.
Provide self tanning services
1 Why is it important to exfoliate before a self tanning
treatment?
a) To ensure the skin will not react to the tanning
products used.
b) To ensure the skin is warm for better absorption of
the tanning agent.
c) To ensure the skin is free from dry patches which
could aﬀect the end result.
d) To ensure the skin is free from contra-indications.
25
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Index
Unit B25 Provide self tanning services
26
aercare 23–4
air compressor 12, 21
allergic reaction 5
application
airbrush 12, 19
automatic spray booth 11–12, 18
body 17
choice of method 11–12
corrections 21
exfoliation 13–14
face 16
manual 11, 16–17
moisturising 14–15
for vitiligo 18
asthma 9
bacteria 22
barrier cream 10, 11
beneﬁts (of self tanning) 2
bridal treatments 4, 7
chloasma 9
client
allergic reaction 5
clothing 4, 5
consent 8
consultation 6–8
expectations 7
hair 10
jewellery 10
preparation 4, 10
skin colouring 6–7
compressed air machine 12, 21
consent 8
consultation 6–8
contra-actions 22
contra-indications 8–10
corrections 21
cosmetic colourings 15
dermatitis 8
desquamation 13
diabetes 8
dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 7, 15
dimethicone 15
eczema 8
environmental conditions 5
epidermis 3, 13
equipment
maintenance 21–22
risks 21–22
tanning 12
erythrulose 15
exfoliating products 11, 13–14
exfoliation 13–14
expectations (client) 7
facial application 16
Fitzpatrick skin categories 6–7
hazards 21–22
home care 23–24
hyperpigmentation 9–10
hypopigmentation 9–10
infections 8
legislation 7
panthenol 15
personal protective equipment (PPE) 5
pigmentation disorders 9–10
post treatment restrictions 23
pregnancy 9
pre-holiday treatments 7
preparation
client 4–5, 10
treatment area 4
products
home care 23–24
pre-treatment 4, 11
self tanning 10
tan extenders 11
tan removers 11
tanning agents 15
psoriasis 8
risks 21–22
skin colouring 6–7
skin conditions 8
skin sensitivity test 8
spray booth application 11–12, 18–19
spray tan liquid 12
stearyl alcohol 15
stretch marks 9
sun protection factor (SPF) 7
sunburn 8
maintenance
equipment 21
tan 23–4
manual application 11, 16, 17
manual handling 21
medication 8
melanin 2
moisturising 11, 14–15
tan removers 11
tanning agents 15
tanning products 10–11
techniques see application
treatment area 4
nose plugs 5, 10
waste disposal 21
ventilation 22
vitiligo 9–10, 18
Level 3 Beauty Therapy
Acknowlegements
Grateful thanks to Fake Bake UK Ltd for supplying step-by-step images for facial tanning
(p.16), body tanning (p.17), application for vitiligo (p.18) and air brush application (p.19)
and granting us permission to use them in our resources.
Our thanks also go to Mist-air for the image of spray tanning reproduced on p.3.
Provide self tanning services
Unit opener – Perov Stanislav/Shutterstock; Sunbather – Leonid and Anna Dedukh/
Shutterstock; Disposable underwear – www.hiveofbeauty.com; Client consultation –
Pearson Education Ltd/Mindstudio; Vitiligo – James Stevenson/Science Photo Library;
Chloasma – Science Photo Library; Airbrush spray tan in portable tent – Courtesy of
Ellisons; Exfoliating products – Cut2White; Moisturising products – Cut2White; Tanning
products – Cut2White; Image of ‘Arietta’ – Paul Matthew Photography/Shutterstock; Tanenhancing make-up – Fake Bake UK Ltd.
Unit B25
The authors and publisher would like to thank the following individuals and organisations
for permission to reproduce photographs:
27