From an Eyebrow Expert Elke Von Freudenberg New York | Los Angeles For Locations & Services www.themodelbrow.com As an eyebrow expert, I've seen really good and really bad eyebrows. Eyebrows for some reason don't seem to fall in between these two categories. And we all want amazing eyebrows. Why? They literally can change the bone structure of your face, giving you what I call a mini-face life. Right before your eyes. I've worked on some of the top models from major modeling agencies in New York and Los Angeles such as Elite, Next, Wilhelmina and Ford, and perfect eyebrows are very important. So when designing a new look for yourself, what can you do to ensure perfect model brow? Eyebrow Tips 1. Don't go too extreme with the trends. Super thin and super thick eyebrows come and go quickly. Go for a happy medium. That way you can easily adapt your look without going through painful growing out stages that never really seem to grow out anyway. 2. Go with the natural line of your eyebrow. All bone structure is different, and so are your eyebrows. Not sure where your eyebrows should be? Run your finger along your eyebrow bone. That's exactly where the line of your eyebrow should be. If you try to arch your eyebrows too high above the bone, it will look too fake. Stay with the arch that works best with your bone structure. It's the one that you naturally have already. Ideally, the best shape is the natural line that your eyebrow already is. If your eyebrows are extremely thick, a very thin eyebrow will not work for you. If your eyebrows are thin, trying to maintain a thicker eyebrow will be too much work. 1. Look at your bone structure and hair texture as a guideline for your eyebrows. Softer, more delicate facial features look best with a thinner, more elegant eyebrow, while a stronger bone structure is the perfect face for a thicker, stronger eyebrow. 2. The secret to model eyebrows, is to never completely wax the line of your eyebrow. Models know that eyebrow looks come and go, and if you wax only, you lose the ability to grow in your eyebrows at a later date should you want to change your look. The best technique is to just wax the hairs that are not needed, like between the eyebrows and along the temples and tweeze under the eyebrow to define the shape. Eyebrow Specialist LA | NY www.themodelbrow.com All rights reserved. Copyright @ Von Freudenberg Enterprise 1 To Create The Perfect Shape 1. Here's a photo of an eyebrow that's just a curved line. Notice how the eye doesn't appear as strong as with the model eyebrow? Linda Evangelista The best shape for eyebrows is a straight line from the beginning of the eyebrow to the arch, and then a soft curve from the arch out to the end of the eyebrow. I call this the model eyebrow. To me, Linda Evangelista will always have the best model eyebrows in the business. 2. Start, middle and end. Everyone knows the lines to a perfect eyebrow. Stay within these lines. Here are images of the arch being too far outside the outer corner of the eye. What this actually does is make the eyes seem closer set Eyebrow Specialist LA | NY www.themodelbrow.com All rights reserved. Copyright @ Von Freudenberg Enterprise 2 3. Another line to be aware of is the start and end of the eyebrow. Make sure the beginning and end of the eyebrow is on the same line. If one side is too h igh up or too far down, it can throw off the shape of the eye. Tweezing Tips: 1. If you find yourself breaking out after tweezing your eyebrows, keep it sanitized. Use witch hazel on a cotton ball before and after you tweeze to avoid those little red bumps. And avoid any oils or heavy moisturizers for a few hours after tweezing. This is what usually caused the little red bumps to pop up after tweezing, by the oils going into the open hair follicle and creating a reaction. Keep to liquids like witch hazel or toner. 2. When tweezing, use slanted tweezers. Why? The slant insures that you do not accidently poke yourself when tweezing, and when shaping, hold the slant against the skin as you tweeze. If you are getting that pinching ouch when tweezing, do what the pros do. Grab the hair with tweezers and pull the hair with the tips of the tweezer touching the skin as you pull. Pull in the direction that the hair grows, and you'll find tweezing to be virtually painless. Why? It's the pulling up of the skin that hurts, not the hair. By keeping the skin flat, you eliminate much of the sting factor. The best slanted tweezers in the business are: Tweezerman: Known for their famous slanted tweezer, actually my favorite is their Wide Grip Slant Tweezer. Perfect to hold in your hand while tweezing, I find myself reaching for these every time I work on a client. Another great tweezer to come on the market is Esthetic's Plus. Their tweezers are amazing and come in assorted sizes and colors. And their quality is excellent. Check out their new slanted tweezers. Eyebrow Specialist LA | NY www.themodelbrow.com All rights reserved. Copyright @ Von Freudenberg Enterprise 3 3. Avoid creating a straightness in your eyebrows by not tweezing above the eyebrow. By tweezing on top, you tend to flatten the shape, making it very difficult to create a high flowing arch. You get your arch only by tweezing underneath, never on top. 4. Not sure if the shape is right for you? Take a concealer pencil and draw away the stray eyebrow hairs you think should go. How does the shape look? This gives an excellent guideline and prevents over tweezing. Shown: The Brow Pencil by Elke, in Blonde, Taupe and Dark Brunette Eyebrow Makeup: Brow Pencil 1. If you are growing in your eyebrows, and need to fill in sparse, or thin brows, keep the eye liner pencils away from the brows. Why? The wax in regular eye liner pencils can make eyebrows look too dark, heavy and easily smears in warm weather. Eye liner pencils are made to glide on, while specially made brow pencils are a bit stiffer, and harder in it's application, so you get a longer lasting look. 2. Always apply your brow pencil to a piece of white paper. Do you see any green, gray or orange in the pencil? Keep looking because you'll have a harder time getting the brow pencil to blend into your brow hair color. Remember, you're applying a color into a color, so you need to find a product that is true in tone. 3. Apply into brow first, before your brow shadow. Use short, sharp strokes to mimic the line of hairs. Eyebrow Specialist LA | NY www.themodelbrow.com All rights reserved. Copyright @ Von Freudenberg Enterprise 4 Eyebrow Makeup: Brow Shadow Next, apply eyebrow shadow with a small angle, or flat brush, that's very soft and very thin. The thinner the brush, the better. You'll get the best line that way. 2. Best eyebrow colors? Choose a eyebrow shadow that's 2-3 shades lighter than your hair color. Why? It always looks darker once it's applied. Shown: Day Brow Shadow in Blonde, Auburn, Ash Brown, Dark Brunette 3. Once applied, take a small toothbrush and brush in the shadow into the skin. It will last hours longer and appear much more natural. This step is usually forgotten and often makes eyebrows appear heavy and fake. 4. Want a quick evening look? Take your eyebrow color but in a shimmery shade and apply just as you would during the day. The soft shimmer from the shadow will make eyes sparkle. Shown: Elke's Multi-Task Brow Brow Eyebrow Makeup: HiLIght Shadow To bring out the shape and line of the eyebrow, nothing does this better than a good hilight shadow. It instnatly makes the line of the brow sharper, stronger and more noticeable. Hi-Light shadows are made to create a different illusion, based on what your skin tone is. For lighter skin tones, go with a soft white or ivory, to bring out the structure of the bone more. We created the White Star, soft sparkles + see through white shadow) and Sugar ( a 3 dimensional white shade) to highlight pale skin tones. For warmer skin tones, we recommend the Canary, a top seller, which has the right amount of shimmer in a yellow-gold base to camouflage pink and red skin tones, perfect for right after tweezing, or Cyber Glow for a soft yellow with sparkles for nighttime. To apply, take a soft rounded eye shadow brush and lightly brush a line right under the brow. Then blend down onto the brow bone, to the crease. If you apply before any other eye shadow makeup, you'll have just the right amount on. Eyebrow Makeup: Night Brow Shadow Want to have a more glamroous night time look? Try our exclusive Night Brow Shadows. With just the right amount of shimmer and sparkle, our shades bring out the glamour in your brows. Nothing gaudy, or too teeny booper, it's the perfect accent to a great brow. Just apply exactly as you would your Day Brow Shadows. You can also multi-task by using our Night Brow Shadows as eye shadows and eye liners as well. Eyebrow Specialist LA | NY www.themodelbrow.com All rights reserved. Copyright @ Von Freudenberg Enterprise 5 Eyebrow Makeup: Groomers Clear Brow Ware: a clear brow water that keeps brows in place, you can also use the Brow Ware as clear mascara as well. Made ultra light, so there's no flaking, peeling or a grayish cast after applying. Use after you've applied your brow makeup, to make a waterproof seal and keep brow hairs in place. Best for thin, lighter brow hairs. Brow Tamer: Made specifically for thicker, coarser brows, the clear wax in Brow Tamer can be applied either before or after applying brow makeup. Apply before to set hairs, and then draw on the Day or Night Brow shadow on top to create a strong line. Or apply after brow makeup and brush through to groom brow hairs and keep in place. Perfect for men or women. The goal of perfect eyebrows? To bring attention to your beautiful eyes, not your eyebrows. Elke Von Freudenberg For more brow tips and tricks: The Model Brow Blog Brow Color Guide Step by Step for Thicker Brows Step by Step: The Night Brow Step by Step: How to Tweeze Tips & Tricks Video Eyebrow Specialist LA | NY www.themodelbrow.com All rights reserved. Copyright @ Von Freudenberg Enterprise 6
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