1. technology and computing
2. networking
3. network monitoring and management

COASTCARE HANDBOOK OF TASMANIA
Communities caring for the Coast
Getting
started
How
to do
it
ect
i
ps
5. Planning the
6. tart wor
i n
PART C
Getting started
ect
i
ps
5. Planning the
6. tart wor
i n
PART C How to do it
Part C: How to do it
Parts C & D provide guidelines for practical actions including revegetating
sites, propagating plants, controlling weeds, managing access,
monitoring, and protecting wildlife along the coast.
You may not need all this information and you certainly don’t need to
know it all. Techniques are constantly changing as we learn more about
coastal processes, ecology and managing human impacts on the coast.
Always seek advice.
You must have permission from the land manager before commencing any
works or activities; sometimes assessments and approvals are required.
13. Monitoring and evaluation
15. Growing your own plants
13.1
13.2
13.3
13.4
13.5
13.6
15.1 To grow or not to grow
15.2 Plant hygiene
15.3 Propagation mixes and other equipment
15.4 Propagation techniques
15.5 Collecting seed for propagation of native plants
15.6 Seed cleaning, storage
and treatment
15.7 More things you can do
Why monitor
2
Environmental monitoring
3
Developing a monitoring plan
3
Basic monitoring techniques
5
Environmental monitoring techniques 6
What to do with the information
10
14. Restoring coastal vegetation
14.1 Role of native coastal vegetation
14.2 Types of coastal plant communities
14.3 Should you revegetate?
14.4 Know your plants, ID is important
14.5 Revegetation planning
14.6 What, where and when to plant
14.7 What species grow in your area?
14.8 Avoid spreading weeds and diseases
14.9 Revegetation techniques
14.10Follow-up care and monitoring
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14
16
17
18
19
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27
27
29
29
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16. Identifying and managing weeds
16.1
16.2
16.3
16.4
16.5
16.6
16.7
16.8
16.9
16.10
16.11
Effective weed management
Identifying weeds Types of weeds Planning weed control
Non herbicide control techniques
Before using herbicides
Using herbicides safely
Herbicide control methods
Timing and follow-up
Avoid spreading weeds
Telling your community
37
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Part C: How to do it C1
13. Monitoring and
evaluation
Monitoring
13.1 Why monitor
13.2 Environmental monitoring
13.3 Developing a monitoring plan
13.4 Basic monitoring techniques
13.5 Environmental monitoring techniques
13.6 What to do with the information
Evaluation
Monitoring is the regular gathering of
information in a consistent manner. It is
a way to keep track of the condition of
an area or the progress of a project.
The information needs to be evaluated
to be useful.
Evaluation is the systematic review
of an activity or project by interpreting
the results and recording thoughts
about the outcomes. It tells you if
your activities are achieving results
as intended.
Keeping records and monitoring projects
is an important part of working on the
coast to help track your progress and
assess the success of your activities.
Monitoring can be a fun activity,
providing a focus for your group and
an opportunity for members with
different skills to get involved. Some
members may not be fit enough to dig
holes and plant trees, but they may love
the opportunity to regularly visit past
plantings and monitor their success.
13.1 Why monitor
Keeping simple records is easy to do. They will provide
invaluable information for your group and will make it
easier for you to seek support for your activities.
Keep records of dates of meetings, activities
undertaken, the number of participants, and the
number of hours worked. This information will be
very useful when writing a funding application, or
you’re asked to demonstrate the amount of volunteer
contributions to your land manager.
Write a summary of your activities
over a year, using the records you collect
and share with your supporters and
community.
C2
Evaluation makes your information
useful for planning future projects,
reviewing and adapting methods and
techniques, and determining the
worth of a particular activity.
Keeping records of the results of your activities will
help you judge success and inform future decisions.
The more details you gather, the easier it will be to
understand why something worked in one location and
not in another.
With your data you can demonstrate to partners and
funding programs why your activities or projects are
needed. It makes it easier for potential partners and
supporters to work with you as the benefits can be
clearly explained.
Ongoing monitoring will pick up any problems early on
and reduce the cost of mitigating or managing those
problems.
Monitoring is a coastal management technique in
itself and often the most important activity a group
can undertake. Monitoring can help you identify and
understand the issues in your area. Consider:
»» Photographs of illegal activity or evidence of illegal
activity e.g. trail bike tracks
»» Photographs of storm damage or coastal erosion
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Things vary a lot naturally. For example, survival rates
of plants established in different years might be just
due to varying weather conditions, not that your group
did a better or worse job of planting in those years.
Restoration of natural systems can take a long time,
and things might get worse before they get better
after you try to fix them. This is especially the case
where you have to remove weeds or do earth works
before establishing new plants. These activities may
result in some erosion and loss of habitat before your
new plants become established.
Monitoring storm erosion events will help you understand the
dynamics of your local coastline.
»» Mapping weed infestations and monitoring
weed removal
»» Monitoring the success of plantings or
access control
»» Monitoring visitor numbers using a
particular access
13.2 Environmental
monitoring
Consider conducting a baseline assessment of
the values of your area, including the current and
potential threats to those values.
You have probably already done this to some extent in
deciding on your group’s activities. However, it is very
useful to have documentation of values and threats
so that you can prioritise activities, and provide better
justification for support from your land manager and
potential funders.
The LIST (Land Information System Tasmania)
provides a wealth of information on plants, animals,
vegetation communities, geophysical characteristics,
water bodies, threatened species, and assessments
of the conservation values of a variety of features. You
can produce maps of your area, with relevant features,
for planning your activities. Details of how to use the
LIST are available as a guidebook and Youtube clips
from the LIST website. Just click on the help button
once in LISTmap. See Part E: More Information. A
couple of very important points to remember about
monitoring natural systems:
13.3 Developing a
monitoring plan
Larger projects often require funding, involve
collaboration and results can take a long time to
become visible. A monitoring plan becomes essential
to help you track progress and provide reports.
Funding bodies require a report on project outcomes
and value for money. A baseline assessment of
your work site and the impact that your works
have had, along with records of volunteer workload
and contributions from others, is a great way to
demonstrate this.
If you are trying out a novel technique, you need to
monitor the effects, so you can assess its effectiveness
and learn from your success and challenges. You can
share what you learn with other Coastcare groups too.
When developing your monitoring plan you should
consider the resources that you have available
and how it fits in with your other activities. These
resources may include budget, equipment, time and
the skills of your volunteers.
Some types of monitoring may require skills not
available within your group. If they are important
for the project you might consider hiring outside
assistance to design and conduct the monitoring
activities.
The monitoring plan should outline the why, what,
when, who and how of your monitoring activities.
Answer the following questions to help you design
your monitoring program.
Part C: How to do it C3
What are the goals of your project?
How will you manage your data?
These might be large and long-term, or small and
specific, but they need to be defined at the start.
Answering this question will help your group focus on
what they’re trying to achieve and why.
Designate someone to collate the data and store it so
that it can be readily retrieved (have a back-up person
for this too). If you want all members of the group to
have access to the data and results, you can keep the
data on the internet.
What are your monitoring objectives?
Think about what you want to know and why. Make
these objectives specific.
There are lots of free cloud-based
programs that allow users to store large
amounts of information securely on the
internet, which can be accessed by users
with a password.
What, where, when and how often will you
monitor?
Decide on the details to meet your specific objectives.
Make sure they are measurable within a time frame
that is reasonable for your group, as well as being
within the capabilities of members (unless you plan to
engage someone else to do it).
Consider creating a monitoring calendar to track your
monitoring activities and act as a reminder.
How will you use the information you
collect?
You might want to report back regularly to your
members. Create a place to record changes to
techniques or plans based on the information
you collect.
How will you evaluate and report on the
information that you collect?
This is the most important part – all that effort spent
on monitoring will be wasted if the data just sits there
and never gets used.
Consider how to analyse and present the data in such
a way that it is understandable to all members of the
group (if that is your main audience). Think about how
to evaluate the results so that your group and other
groups doing similar work can learn from them and
put what you learn into practice.
If you plan to contribute data to a larger (e.g.
statewide) monitoring project, you need to
work within the data collection requirements
of that project.
Who will be involved and how?
This is the opportunity to utilise skills within your
group. You should ensure that if a particular
monitoring activity needs to be carried out at a
certain time and the person who normally does it is
unavailable, someone else can take over (i.e. is trained
to make the observations and is available).
Record who collects the data so that
any follow-up questions can be directed
to that person.
C4
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
Decide how you will monitor and
analyse before you start your project, and
make sure you start monitoring before
you start your works. It’s much harder to
demonstrate convincingly the success of
your project if you can’t show what your
site was like before you started.
PART C How to do it
Use of quadrat to monitor extent of pacific oyster cover on shoreline.
13.4 Basic monitoring
techniques
Monitoring of an area may include photographic
records, water quality testing, beach profile
measurements, visitor use statistics, asset condition
assessments, habitat or natural value assessments
and changes over time.
way to get to know an area, to learn to tell introduced
species from native species, and to detect changes.
In degraded areas it is useful to find out what
vegetation was there before from old photos and
long-term residents.
Photopoint monitoring
Monitoring of a project may include monitoring of
the work or area as described above but might also
include things like hours spent on administration,
attendance at meetings, volunteer hours spent
working at working bees, amounts of consumables
used (such as herbicide), and numbers of community
members consulted.
Photopoint monitoring is a simple, fast and
inexpensive technique to record and monitor visual
changes in the natural environment over time.
It involves taking a series of images of an area or
subject from a fixed location, at regular time intervals.
These photos can then be compared over time to
show physical changes at a given location. Refer to
Photopoint monitoring guide, NRM South.
Baseline surveys
Transects and quadrats
Baseline surveys can be the most important activity
that a group undertakes. A baseline survey can be as
simple as making a list of plants and animals on the
site. If the survey is repeated at intervals, it can be a
useful indicator of how the site is changing. It is a good
Monitoring plots such as transects or quadrats can
help you quantify changes in vegetation or intertidal
life. A quadrat involves marking out a plot (you can
use tape, pegs or a pre-formed grid). A transect is a
straight line marked out with a tape measure or rope.
Record the number of each species of plant and/or
animal along the transect or in the quadrat. Detailed
information on designing monitoring projects and
setting up transects or quadrats to monitor vegetation
condition or changes can be found in A technical
manual for vegetation monitoring.
Create a record sheet to ensure
everyone collects the same information in
a standardised way.
Part C: How to do it C5
13.5 Environmental
monitoring techniques
Contact your NRM or community facilitators within
your local council, PWS and NRM regional office to
find out what monitoring programs are happening in
your area.
Your group might be interested in contributing to
existing monitoring programs, coordinated by other
institutions. These ‘citizen science’ programs serve as
an early warning system for detecting changes in the
environment. The methods are generally easy and fun
to do. The information collected by the community
complements the data collected by government
agencies and scientists.
If you wish to develop your own marine focused
project, the Australian Marine Project Guide explains
some basic marine and survey techniques. The guide
describes how to do surveys of recreational fishing,
intertidal areas, marine species and marine habitat.
It is important to remember that environmental
monitoring is most valuable if the information
gathered is useful to those studying or managing
the environment.
Sharing stories
TASMARC monitoring
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Clifton Beach Middle
7
Height above AHD (m)
Many Coastcare groups have noticed that
big storm events were resulting in large
losses of sand along certain beaches.
TASMARC provides an opportunity for
local volunteers to receive training and the
necessary surveying equipment to monitor
their local beach. A number of groups are
already involved in the TASMARC program.
They monitor sand movement and beach
profiles at designated locations along their
beach at regular intervals throughout the
year. This is providing long-term data on the
amount of sand on the beach and whether it
is increasing or decreasing, and where it is
moving to.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
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Distance offshore from survey mark 730/08 (m)
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PART C How to do it
A number of environmental monitoring techniques are
useful for coastal management. A list of monitoring
tools and guides is provided in Part E:
More information.
Managing and restoring vegetation
A variety of methods exist for monitoring vegetation.
Choosing the most appropriate one will depend on
the available skills of your groups as well as the aims
of your project. If the aim is to enhance vegetation
condition, you might consider monitoring plant
survival and/or vegetation condition, while if the aim
is to provide habitat for animals, you might consider
regular bird counts or some other fauna survey.
Assessment and monitoring of vegetation condition
is best done using the Vegetation Condition
Assessment method, or for riparian areas, the
streamside zone component of the Tasmanian
River Condition Assessment method. You will need
someone trained in the methods to determine the
vegetation type and conduct the assessments. Both
methods score vegetation condition on a number of
criteria, and enable you to examine which aspects
of condition might need to be improved through
management actions.
A method more suited to untrained observers is the
Rapid Diversity Assessment Tool described in A
technical manual for vegetation monitoring. This
method will provide you with information on the
diversity of plants in your patch of bush, and enable
you to track it over time. An alternative checklist-style
method is provided in A Land Manager’s Guide for
Assessing and Monitoring the Health of Tasmania’s
Forested Bush. However, it is really only designed
for bush dominated by trees, so will not be suitable
for some coastal vegetation communities. Ask a
DPIPWE Flora Protection Officer if you need help with
techniques.
If you simply wish to monitor the success of your
plantings or the removal of weeds, use a map or
photos to record the positions of your plantings
or weeds, and note the dates of observations and
survival/removal of each plant on a record sheet.
Sea-level rise and shoreline erosion
TASMARC (Tasmanian Shoreline Monitoring and
Archiving Project) is a program that monitors
shoreline erosion in Tasmania by measuring beach
profiles. The program relies on volunteers to take
regular measurements at permanent transect sites
designated by the TASMARC team. Get in contact with
them if you would like to participate.
Managing access
Before planning access management it is useful to
make observations about the type of user, how many,
how often and how they use the access.
Sharing stories
Witness King Tides
King tides are the highest tides of the year. They occur twice
a year due to the combined influences of the sun and the
moon and the gravitational attraction they each have on
the water surface of the Earth.
The Witness King Tides Project encourages people to take
photographs of their coastal area during these King Tides.
Participants register their involvement and then post their
images on the website. The project offers an opportunity
for the public to understand what sea-level rise projections
might mean for their local coastal community and assets.
The project was launched in Tasmania in 2013 with
Coastcare volunteers getting involved.
Part C: How to do it C7
Use of surveillance camera to monitor feral cat attacks on short-tailed shearwaters.
Waterway monitoring
Many groups are interested in water quality monitoring
and some have used grants to purchase specialised
equipment. Water quality monitoring is most useful
when there is a concern about localised pollution such
as from stormwater or sewerage outfalls.
Direct water quality monitoring is not always the most
practical or effective way to measure the condition of
your waterway. If you are interested in the condition
and health of your local coastal waterway there are a
number of indicators that you can monitor. Refer to
Chapter 19: Protecting coastal waterways for more
information.
Wildlife monitoring
This could be as simple and relaxing as nominating a
different group member each weekend to spend time
sitting on the beach recording this information at each
access point.
Records of observations before and after any works to
manage access will help you report on success.
C8
Regular monitoring of a highly visible group of animals,
such as birds, can be a good way to keep a check
on whether your local patch is continuing to provide
good habitat for animals, if your revegetation work is
providing habitat, or if habitat is declining in some way.
Observations of uncommon or rare shorebirds such as
hooded plovers, fairy terns, little terns and migratory
waders are appreciated by BirdLife Tasmania.
Birdlife Australia’s ‘Atlas project’ is a fantastic way
to monitor birds in your area, and at the same time
contribute to a national project monitoring birds
across Australia.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
It’s important to remember with any wildlife
monitoring that the animals might take a long time
to respond to any changes to habitat. Numbers of
migratory birds like swift parrots, might vary from year
to year due to events a long way from your patch.
You should report any sightings of whales, unusual
marine mammals, turtles, injured dolphins or seals to
wildlife authorities.
More information on protecting wildlife in Chapter 20.
Monitoring pests
Monitoring pests such as feral cats, roaming dogs and
foxes is best done with photographic evidence.
Marine pests can be monitored using transects or
quadrats to determine if numbers are increasing.
Report all sightings of pests and new invasions to the
land manager and DPIPWE experts.
Marine debris monitoring and clean ups
If you have a regular clean up day in your coastal area,
it can be useful to keep a record of how much rubbish
you collect and the volunteer hours involved each
time. This will enable you to keep track of whether the
rubbish problem is increasing, and whether it needs to
managed be differently by the authorities.
Keeping track of the types of rubbish will enable you
to understand the source of the waste and whether
you can do anything about reducing the waste at the
source. For example, fish farms are obliged to pick up
their rubbish, and the Tasmanian Seafood Industry
Council coordinates clean-ups of specific areas of the
coast with the companies responsible.
Example data sheet used by a marine debris monitoring program.
You can get involved in a number of marine debris
monitoring programs that are collecting and
analysing data. More information about marine debris
monitoring activities in Chapter 21.
Sharing stories
Several members of the Randalls Bay Coastcare
group keep a monthly checklist of the birds seen
in the area. This reveals interesting patterns
such as migratory movements of birds in and
out of the area, and over the long term can be
used to detect changes in the bird community.
Part C: How to do it C9
13.6 What to do with the
information
You must refer to or share the information you collect
for it to be valuable. Use the results to evaluate the
success of your activities, inform land managers of
problems, justify your request for funding, assess
the impacts of a particular activity, assess long
term changes to your coastal area and adapt your
management based on what works and what doesn’t.
Adaptive management
If you have the opportunity to try out different
techniques or variations (for example, planting trees
at different densities or planting different mixes of
species in different places), monitoring becomes an
essential part of learning from your trials – this is the
essence of adaptive management.
Think about how you will change your plans or
techniques to build on the knowledge you gain.
Reporting
Try to be creative in reporting the results of your
monitoring project. Some people love figures and
tables, while others relate better to words and
pictures. Tailor your reporting to the audience for
which you are writing. Remember funding bodies and
statewide or national projects will probably have a
protocol for reporting the data that you collect.
Anything that you learn in the process of doing and
monitoring coastal works in your area may be valuable
to other Coastcare groups, so make sure you share
your information.
14.Restoring
coastal vegetation
14.1
14.2
14.3
14.4
14.5
14.6
14.7
14.8
14.9
14.10
Role of native coastal vegetation
Types of coastal plant communities
Should you revegetate?
Know your plants, ID is important
Revegetation planning
What, where and when to plant
What species grow in your area?
Avoid spreading weeds and diseases
Revegetation techniques
Follow-up care and monitoring
Restoring coastal vegetation can involve
intensive replanting of badly degraded
areas, or simply restricting access to
allow the vegetation to restore itself. The
aim is to recreate, as far as possible, the
vegetation community that originally
grew at the site.
This chapter provides some background
about special considerations when
revegetating in the coastal zone.
Always plan first and seek expert advice.
It is not necessary to know all the plants
– a botanist can help you.
14.1 Role of native
coastal vegetation
A diversity of intact coastal vegetation is the basis of
a healthy coastal ecosystem, which provides food,
shelter and breeding sites for birds and animals.
Vegetation holds sand dunes together. Vegetated
dunes act as a buffer or windbreak for the hinterland
and provide protection from high seas and storms.
Take a walk around your area to see if you can find
some relatively undisturbed coastal vegetation.
The best way to find out what to plant at your site
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
is to note the natural vegetation in a similar nearby
environment. You will notice that certain plants grow
together on a particular landform such as a dune,
headland or saltmarsh.
Coastal plants tend to grow in zones based on their
distance from the sea and the type of landform. The
aim of revegetation is to reproduce these patterns.
14.2 Types of coastal
plant communities
The plants in coastal communities vary with the
climate, distance from the sea, exposure to prevailing
winds and salt spray, the landform and the geology.
There is a noticeable difference in plant communities
between the west and the east coasts of Tasmania.
A number of endemic shrubs (i.e. found only in
Tasmania) grow along the stormy, colder shores of the
west and southwest coasts, where the quartzite and
conglomerate rocks are extremely low in nutrients.
Along the warmer, calmer northern and eastern
coasts, basalt and dolerite rocks form relatively fertile
soils, although granite rocks form quite infertile soils.
Specialised coastal vegetation is adapted to life on sandy
foreshores.
Although most coastal plants are widespread there
are distinctly different coastal communities growing
on sand dunes; rocky shores, headlands and cliffs;
heathlands and wetlands.
Plants on sand dunes
Coastal dunes form when sand is delivered to the
beach by waves and blown on shore. Plants growing
on the shore trap the wind-blown sand and start to
build up mounds of sand behind them.
Many Tasmanian beaches have been invaded by the introduced
marram grass, which can almost totally exclude the native dune
grasses Austrofestuca littoralis and Spinifex sericeus.
Only a few pioneer species can grow on the loose sand
of the upper beach and foredune. A greater variety can
grow on the more consolidated sands on the lee side
of the foredune and/or the dunes behind.
Not all of the plants listed here will be native to your
area. Some species prefer the warmer climate and the
higher calcium carbonate content of the beach sands
on the north-east coast and the Bass Strait islands.
Regional variations in species are discussed in
section 14.7.
Dune plants play an important role in trapping sand.
Part C: How to do it C11
Plants of rocky shores
The vegetation on headlands, cliffs and other rocky
shores is more variable. It depends not only on
exposure to salt spray and wind but also the rock
type and landform. Table 14.2 lists the more common
species. More detailed information and references
to botanical studies are in the book Vegetation of
Tasmania. See Part E: More information.
Plants of heathlands
Heathlands occur in places where infertile soil and salt
spray or frequent fires exclude taller plants or herbs.
Although most plants are less than two metres in
height, heathland supports an amazing variety
of plants with spectacular displays of flowers in
early spring.
Dry heathland, found on well-drained soils, includes
Epacris impressa (common heath), Kunzea ambigua,
Calytrix tetragona, Allocasuarina monilifera (scrub
oak), Banksia marginata, Acacia suaveolens (sweet
wattle) and species of Leucopogon, Hakea, Correa,
Leptospermum and orchids. Wet heathland grows on
waterlogged soils where paperbarks, tea-trees, sedges
and rushes dominate.
Coastal heathland vegetation includes a variety of plants, many
of which grow away from the coast too.
Various heathland peas (Indigofera australis,
Bossiaea cinerea, Aotus ericoides, Dillwynia
glaberrima, Pultenaea species), lilies (Bulbine), small
daisies (other Senecio species, Chrysocephalum
apiculatum) and numerous grasses are often present
in the more sheltered sites.
In places where fires or grazing are frequent, shrubs
are often replaced by Poa labillardierei (snow grass),
Pteridium esculentum (bracken) or Lomandra
longifolia (sagg) and various weeds.
Many of the plants on the hind dunes tend to be
similar to those in the local woodland or forest, but
some, such as Myoporum insulare and Correa alba,
are strictly coastal.
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The north-east coast vegetation has extensive
remnants of heathlands because of the abundance
of low-nutrient wind-blown sands. Taller shrubs like
Allocasuarina monilifera, Banksia marginata and
Melaleuca ericifolia may locally dominate some
of these areas.
Heathlands were once widespread but unfortunately
large tracts have been displaced by residential,
agricultural and recreational development.
This is just a brief overview of the complex vegetation
and ecology of Tasmanian coastal heaths. For
comprehensive information, refer to ‘The disappearing
heath revisited’, which has many drawings and
colour photos of the plants. Expert advice is
particularly important for identifying and
managing heathland vegetation.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Boullanger Bay and Robbins Passage in Tasmania’s north-west supports extensive seagrass beds and is an important habitat for
migratory shorebirds.
More information about coastal wetlands can be
found in Chapter 19: Protecting coastal waterways.
Saltmarshes, which grow on sheltered tidal mudflats,
are easily recognised by their distinctive glossy
green to red succulent herbs, often backed by low
grey-green salt bushes. The plants species vary in
their tolerance to tidal inundation and usually grow
in distinct zones. Different species grow in different
patches depending on the degree of inundation,
salinity and drainage. If revegetation is required, (e.g.
no adjacent marsh is present) only plant species found
locally, and where possible replicate the patterns of
vegetation present in undisturbed parts of your marsh
or nearby saltmarsh.
Saltmarsh in Tasmania’s south-east.
Plants of saltmarsh and other coastal
wetlands
Coastal wetlands may be temporarily or permanently
covered with fresh, brackish or salt water. They
include estuaries, lagoons, swamps, tidal flats and
saltmarshes. Wetlands are common along tidal
inlets and where sand accumulates and blocks
drainage from the land. The ecology, vegetation and
management of Tasmanian wetlands are described in
Restoring wetlands and waterways: a guide to action.
Saline areas of saltmarsh (closer to the coast and
in parts of the marsh subject to high evaporation)
are dominated by succulent herbs and shrubs such
as samphire or beaded glasswort (Sarcocornia
quinqueflora). Where tidal creeks and freshwater
streams cut through the saltmarsh, the mildly salttolerant rushes, grasses and sedges occur, and in
the higher tide regions non-succulent herbs survive.
While this general pattern applies, it can be altered by
the presence of wetter areas around tidal pools and
channels and drier areas on slightly raised sandy or
silty ridges.
Table 14.3 shows the salinity and drainage conditions
preferred by various saltmarsh species in Tasmania.
Part C: How to do it C13
Your group might be able to monitor what washes up
on your shoreline to get an indication of the presence
of these marine plants and marine invaders or
pests. More adventurous volunteers might consider
joining dive clubs to monitor the kelp in the marine
environment or get involved in removing pests or
reintroducing kelp plants.
14.3 Should you revegetate?
One of the major reasons for deciding to revegetate a
coastal area is to restore and maintain the biodiversity
and native vegetation that has been affected by human
impacts.
After disturbance, changes in the elevation and the
soil conditions can prevent the desired marsh plants
from growing if the frequency and duration of tidal
inundation differs from what is needed. Some species,
such as Sarcocornia quinqueflora, Samolus repens
(Brookweed) and Distichlis distichophylla are less
fussy than others.
Kelp forests and seagrass meadows Kelp forests and seagrass meadows are marine plants
often found in estuaries or just offshore. The most
extensive seagrass meadows in Tasmania are found
at Robbins Passage in north-west Tasmania. Other
estuarine and sheltered sites support seagrass
beds but many are in decline. In many populated
areas across Australia they have been lost or
seriously degraded most likely due to urban and
agricultural runoff.
Seagrass has been known to regenerate slowly if the
water quality is improved, however very little is known
about the difficult task of restoring seagrass meadows.
Vegetation is the key to stabilising sand and other
coastal soils damaged by human activities. Often this
damage is exacerbated by wind or rainwater runoff.
Over time, these impacts can be mitigated by a well
thought-out revegetation project.
Planting vegetation is not always the answer to coastal
erosion problems. Trying to stabilise soils subject
to wave erosion is very difficult, especially on sandy
sites. Dune vegetation cannot stop direct wave erosion
because the sand is so loosely held together.
Take care if revegetating muddy banks or semiconsolidated clayey or ‘soft rock’ shorelines. They
are highly susceptible to erosion as material is not
replenished or returned once washed away. Seek
expert advice. Large trees can actually exacerbate
erosion in storm events as their root system can
collapse more of the shoreline if the tree is uprooted
so careful selection and placement of plants is
important.
Pollution and runoff are significant threats to
seagrass. Inappropriate boat moorings can
damage or destroy seagrass.
Kelp forests occur in many marine habitats around
Tasmania and are threatened by pests such as
introduced kelp species and sea urchins.
It is possible, but hard work, to rehabilitate degraded
kelp forests. Dedicated divers, under specialist
instruction, have reforested several sites in the southeast in the past.
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
Some dunes, with natural blowouts,
have significant geomorphological values
and should not be revegetated. Planting
of seedlings may not be allowed on
some Aboriginal sites because it involves
digging and disturbance to Aboriginal
heritage values.
PART C How to do it
To plant or not to plant?
DO NOT plant if these situations apply:
xx Aboriginal cultural heritage values
have been assessed and should not
be disturbed.
xx The landforms are geologically
significant (on Tasmania’s
Geoconservation Database).
xx Direct wave erosion occurs.
xx Vegetation cover is adequate to
prevent erosion.
xx Shorebirds nest on the bare sand.
xx Natural regeneration is likely if
access is controlled. This needs to be
monitored.
A reasonable vegetation cover will stop wind erosion
in dunes by reducing the ground wind speed but in
most situations, the vegetation cover does not need
to be 100%. Some sand dunes are naturally more
sparsely vegetated than others. Revegetation can
restore diverse native vegetation and habitats for
wildlife. However, gaps between dune vegetation
are needed for some shorebirds, including hooded
plovers, to nest.
If in doubt, seek expert advice
from your land manager or vegetation
specialists.
Planting activities are enjoyable but consider whether
they are really necessary. At some sites, fencing or
other access control strategies to reduce trampling
from feet and vehicles may be all that is required to
allow natural regeneration.
Consider if changes, such as altered drainage,
increased nutrients or dumping of garden waste have
made the conditions less suitable for native plants.
Perhaps these changes can be modified to restore the
conditions that favour native vegetation rather than
weeds.
On a highly disturbed site, natural regeneration may
be too slow to keep up with erosion or there may be
too few suitable species present. In this case, planting
may be worthwhile to stabilise the site or to assist
natural regeneration.
Before you go ahead with planting, assess the
situation and your resources carefully. Revegetation
is rewarding but takes planning and hard work over
a long time. Will you be able to provide the follow-up
weeding and other maintenance necessary for
several years?
Sharing stories
One of the motivations for starting the BelleriveHowrah Coast Care Group was noticing that
some well-meaning people were pulling out
native indigo thinking it was vetch, a common
garden weed with similar purple flowers.
For years another group transplanted pigface
without realising it was the introduced
Carpobrotus edulis, a widespread and variable
species that can look very similar to the native
Carpobrotus rossii.
Part C: How to do it C15
14.4 Know your plants, ID is
important
It is important to properly identify all of the plants on
your site before planning any weeding or revegetation
activities. Many native species can easily be confused
with weeds, especially when they are only seedlings.
You may be unaware of threatened or rare species
growing on your site. Appendix 2 depicts some of the
common native coastal plants that you might confuse
with weeds.
Training in plant identification is sometimes provided
by support organisations, such as the Understorey
Network, and is an opportunity to offer someone
in your group new skills. If you do not have the
experience and skills to identify the species yourself,
then seek expert advice.
Some native coastal plants can be confused with weeds. To the
untrained eye native gorse (left), and many native peas, can
easily be mistaken for the gorse weed (right).
Scientific names for native plants are used here
because so many different common names are in use.
To avoid confusion (especially when ordering plants
from a nursery) it is a good idea to learn the scientific
names.
Always seek advice if you come
across a plant that you cannot identify, it
might be a threatened species or a new
weed!
Common and scientific names of plants are listed in
Table 14.1
Sharing stories
After a hard summer of working bees along their
lovely coastline, the Primrose Sands Coastcare
Group, (a sub-group of Southern Beaches
Landcare/Coastcare Inc), took a break and
enjoyed a guided tour of their local saltmarsh.
Phil Watson (NRM facilitator with Clarence
Council), is well known for his work with the
saltmarshes in the Lauderdale area and shared
his expertise.
Not only did the tour group identify seven
saltmarsh specific plants, but Phil explained
to the volunteers how the plants in this unique
environment have evolved and how the life cycle
of the plants in the marshes contributes to the
marine ecology. A bonus was the discovery
of the very rare ‘Golden Dodder’ in a nearby
lagoon!
C16
The day helped the group understand more
about their unique area and the threats from
increasing urbanisation. They also established
contact with the adjoining land owner who
joined in for part of the ramble and will be a
good partner in protecting the saltmarsh into
the future.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
A revegetation planning
checklist
If revegetation is appropriate and feasible,
consider the following steps:
□□ Identify the causes of native vegetation
loss – e.g. dumping of garden waste.
Can these practices be modified to
favour the native plants?
□□ Do an inventory of the vegetation.
□□ Study the vegetation in a nearby natural
area.
□□ Seek expert advice.
□□ Consider the nesting, feeding and
shelter requirements of local animals,
including birds.
□□ Consider Aboriginal heritage.
□□ Control access to the site – is a fence
needed?
□□ Remove weeds.
Seek expert advice
Your local council NRM Facilitator, the Bushcare
program, field naturalist clubs and the Australian
Plants Society are free sources of botanical expertise.
For significant projects, scientists in the Biodiversity
Conservation Branch, DPIPWE, should be consulted.
14.5 Revegetation planning
Revegetating coastal sites, where dry sandy soils are
exposed to salt, winds and sun is quite a challenge.
A well-planned strategy has a much better chance of
success.
Most coastal plants are tough survivors well adapted
to the salt, wind and waves. But they cannot tolerate
being trampled by people, vehicles or livestock. Nor
can they out-compete vigorous environmental weeds
such as marram grass and boneseed. It is critical to
control access and weeds before you start to plant.
□□ Consider if stabilisation techniques
(e.g. brushes or mulches) are needed.
□□ Decide which native plant species will
be planted to create a natural habitat.
□□ Work out the costs involved of
obtaining plants, fencing, weeding
materials etc.
□□ Consult with anyone in the community
likely to be affected.
□□ Estimate how many plants you can
physically manage to plant each year.
□□ Decide how many of each species will
be needed and organise propagation.
□□ Plant the site in winter when the soil is
moist.
□□ Protect plants if required with guards,
brush or mulch.
□□ Do follow-up weed control and
maintenance.
Refer to Chapter 13: Monitoring and
Evaluation for more information.
Coastal revegetation is a slow process. It usually takes
several years. Many plants show little sign of growth
until they establish a good root system. During this
time it is vital to help plants establish by removing
weeds and repairing fences and other structures
controlling access.
Doing a plant inventory
If revegetation is a good idea, start with a plant
inventory.
Assessing the condition of the vegetation is a useful
step towards planning your revegetation strategy. This
involves finding out which plants are native and which
are introduced, and mapping the results. Take this
opportunity to look for evidence of human pressures
such as trampling, dumping garden refuse (a source
of seeds and bulbs) and for other problems such as
dieback or root rot disease (Phytophthora).
Keep in mind that it can take a year or more to obtain
good quality plants grown from local seed or cuttings.
Part C: How to do it C17
Figure 14.8 shows the zones where native plants commonly occur on relatively undisturbed coastal dunes. In reality of course, the plant
zones overlap to some extent. Over time, a greater variety of plants may establish throughout the site and the zones become less clearly
defined. Refer also to Table 14.1.
Community walks led by a botanist are a good way
to involve the group and your local community
in a vegetation inventory and mapping exercise.
September to early October is a good time, when
most coastal plants are flowering.
Planting needs to be done in the late autumn to winter
months but wait until good autumn/early winter rains
arrive. This is often not until June. Planting can be
extended into September if the soil is still thoroughly
moist. June to August are the best months for planting
in the drier parts of the state.
14.6 What, where and
when to plant
Plan to use only locally native plants as these are
adapted to the local conditions and generally provide
the best habitat for wildlife.
It is a waste of time planting on the coast unless you
put the right plant in the right place at the right time
of year to give them the best chance of surviving in a
very difficult environment.
Coastal plants grow in zones according to their
capacity to tolerate exposure to the salty, sandy
conditions of the shoreline. It is critical that species
are planted at the right distance from the sea in a
suitable environment, based on your observations and
advice from experts. The zones in Tables 14.1, 14.2, 14.3
are a good guide.
Many of the plant species or forms
found in geographically isolated areas
such as the Tasman Peninsula, are
only found there. So it is particularly
important to use local provenance plants
for revegetation projects.
C18
Try to replicate the natural local patterns of
vegetation – the species, their position and their
relative abundance.
Sand-binding grasses and succulent creepers grow
in unstable sand nearest the sea. These pioneer
plants tolerate salt spray and can stand the harshest
conditions. Dune pioneers can withstand being
partly buried by sand. However, only Spinifex and
Austrofestuca can tolerate rapidly accumulating sand.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
more calcium carbonate compared with the more
silica-rich beaches of the south). Spinifex sericeus is
sparse in the south and south-east because it is near
the end of its climatic range.
Austrofestuca littoralis grows on the foredunes with
Spinifex on the east coast and often with Carpobrotus
rossii (pigface), Acaena pallida (shiny buzzy), Actites
megalocarpa (coastal sow thistle) and Stackhousia
spathulata (coast mignonette) in the south-east.
Poa poiformis grows on more consolidated dunes,
backed by Acacia longifolia subsp. sophorae,
Myoporum insulare, Leptospermum laevigatum
and Leucopogon parviflorus.
Banksia marginata woodland grows behind dunes,
with low Eucalyptus viminalis or Eucalyptus globulus
beyond the dunes.
On exposed bare sites, start with these pioneer
species to stabilise the soil and provide a buffer for
other species, which are planted in the following
years.
Leptospermum laevigatum has extended its range
from Musselroe Bay down the coast to the St Helens
area and was previously planted further south, where
it is now regarded as an environmental weed.
Grasses, sedges, herbs, and low shrubs can grow right
next to the sea but are relatively intolerant of burial by
sand. These are suitable for planting on the seaward
side of the foredune but only if the pioneer plants have
established to provide shelter.
Rocky shore vegetation
On the granite sections of the east coast the
vegetation grows in zones as shown in Table 14.2.
Other shrubs that may occur are Alyxia buxifolia
(sea box), Leucopogon parviflorus, Leptecophylla
juniperina (crimson berry) and Olearia phlogopappa
(dusty daisy bush).
Taller shrubs and trees are planted landward of the
foredune crest. Many of them grow better if they are
planted even further back from the sea, where there
is greater protection from wind and salt spray. Tall
trees can be planted later if conditions are suitable for
their growth and if revegetation is required in the zone
furthest from the sea.
In sheltered sites, most of these species can be
planted at the same time.
14.7 What species
grow in your area?
This section outlines some of the regional
differences in vegetation to help you to
choose species for revegetation projects.
Dolerite coasts and softer sedimentary cliffs are
common in the southeast. Bedfordia salicina
(blanket leaf) grows in sheltered moister sites. On
the east coast, Callitris rhomboidea (oyster bay
pine) is sometimes common where there is sufficient
protection from fires.
On shelfs and talus slopes along the cliffy coasts
of south-east Tasmania, dense forest dominated
by Callitris, Bedfordia salicina and Atherosperma
moschatum (sassafras) is sometimes found. The
shrub Richea dracophylla (dragon heath) is one of
several endemic mountain species growing on the
Tasman Peninsula, Bruny Island and the south coast
where rainfall is higher.
East and south-east coast
Far north-east, north-west and Bass
Strait Islands
Dune vegetation
Spinifex sericeus grows on the foredunes on the east
coast. Spinifex increases in abundance towards the
warmer north of Tasmania (where the sand contains
Dune vegetation
These areas are not as grassy as dunes on the
east coast. Spinifex sericeus and Austrofestuca
littoralis both grow on the foredunes. Leptospermum
Part C: How to do it C19
Zones where native plants grow on sand dunes
Closer to
the sea
Seaward face of foredune
Grasses, prostrate plants, low shrubs. Sand and salt tolerant
Plant first
Atriplex cinerea
Austrofestuca littoralis
Carpobrotus rossii
Spinifex sericeus*
Tetragonia implexicoma
grey saltbush
coast fescue
native pigface
spinifex
bower spinach
* Spinifex sericeus is difficult to propagate and grow in Tasmania because the species prefers
warmer temperatures – it is near the limit of its climatic range
Plant a little further back behind the shelter of the species above
Acacia longifolia subsp. sophorae**
Austrostipa stipoides
Cakile species
Distichlis distichophylla
Poa poiformis
Senecio pinnatifolius*
coast wattle
coast spear grass
sea rocket
salt grass
coast tussock grass
coast groundsel
More sheltered foredune areas and hollows
Grasses, sedges, low shrubs. Tolerate salt spray
Further
away from
the sea
Ozothamnus turbinatus
Olearia axillaris (N)
Lepidosperma concavum
Lepidosperma gladiatum
Ficinia nodosa (formerly Isolepis nodosa)
Acaena novae-zelandiae
Kennedia prostrata
Pelargonium australe
Austrostipa flavescens
Rhagodia candolleana
Leucophyta brownii (N)
Lomandra longifolia
Correa alba
Leucopogon parviflorus
Dianella species
Dichelachne crinita
coast everlasting
coast daisy bush
sand sword-sedge
coast sword-sedge
knobby club-rush
buzzy
running postman
native geranium
yellow spear grass
seaberry saltbush
cushion bush
common sagg
white correa
coast beard-heath
flax-lilies
long-hair plume-grass
Table 14.1 Zones where common native plants grow on sand dunes and sandy landscapes. Use this as a guide for planting these species
when revegetating. Some species occur naturally only in the north (N), north-west/west (NW/W) or east (E) of Tasmania. Most species,
apart from Spinifex and Austrofestuca, can be planted further back. Some will grow nearer the sea than indicated in the table, but they will
establish better if planted further inland.
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Zones where native plants grow on sand dunes
Closer to
the sea
Hind dunes
Shrubs and trees. Need protection from wind and salt spray.
silver wattle
prickly moses
drooping she-oak
silver banksia
prickly box
native hop
coast tea-tree
manuka
swamp paperbark
boobialla
Acacia dealbata
Acacia verticillata
Allocasuarina verticillata
Banksia marginata
Bursaria spinosa
Dodonaea viscosa subsp. spatulata
Leptospermum laevigatum (N)
Leptospermum scoparium
Melaleuca ericifolia (N on wet heaths)
Myoporum insulare
Eucalypts
Further
away from
the sea
black peppermint
blue gum
Smithton peppermint
white gum
Eucalyptus amygdalina
Eucalyptus globulus (E)
Eucalyptus nitida (NW/W)
Eucalyptus viminalis
Table 14.1 continued. * Senecio pinnatifolius was Senecio lautus. **This was Acacia sophorae but is now regarded as a subspecies of Acacia
longifolia. The very similar Acacia longifolia subsp. longifolia (golden wattle) possibly occurs on the eastern Bass Strait islands but is
regarded as a weed on the mainland of Tasmania.
laevigatum heathland and shrubland is dominant on
consolidated dunes, often growing with many shrub
species including Ozothamnus turbinatus, Olearia
axillaris, Acacia longifolia subsp. sophorae, Correa
alba and Myoporum insulare. Pomaderris apetala
(rough dogwood) and other Pomaderris species
occur in damp places. Further inland Leucopogon
parviflorus and Melaleuca ericifolia also grow,
and Callitris rhomboidea (oyster bay pine) is
sometimes found.
The natural range of Leptospermum laevigatum is on
the Furneaux Islands and along Bass Strait westwards
from Musselroe Bay to Bluff Hill on the northern tip of
the west coast.
Dianella tasmanica is often the most common
species of Dianella along the north-west coast,
especially on damp sites. Dianella revoluta and
Dianella brevicaulis also occur.
White gum and black peppermint are typical of
the far northeast and the Furneaux Islands, while
blue gum and stringybark (Eucalyptus obliqua) are
common in the far north-west and King Island.
Rocky shore vegetation
In these areas the sequence of vegetation from the
shore is often: Disphyma crassifolium, Carpobrotus
rossii, Tetragonia implexicoma, Poa poiformis,
shrubs (such as Correa alba, Rhagodia candolleana,
Helichrysum species), Bedfordia salicina and
Allocasuarina verticillata woodland.
The basalt headlands of Table Cape and The Nut
were once covered with dense wet eucalypt forest.
Leucophyta brownii (cushion bush) is common
especially on parts of the north coast, west coast and
Bass Strait islands.
West coast
Dune vegetation
In many places the vegetation of west coast
dunes is disturbed by sand blows. Where the
original foredunes are still intact, they support the
groundcovers Disphyma crassifolium, Carpobrotus
rossii and Acaena species and shrubs, dominated by
Leptospermum scoparium and Leucopogon australis.
Leptospermum laevigatum becomes more common
north of the Pieman River.
Part C: How to do it C21
Zones where native plants grow on headlands and cliffs
Closer to
the sea
Damp saline niches closest to the sea
beaded glasswort
brookweed
sea celery
Sarcocornia quinqueflora
Samolus repens
Apium prostratum
Succulent herbs
round-leaved pig face
pigface
bower spinach
New Zealand spinach
Disphyma crassifolium
Carpobrotus rossi
Tetragonia implexicoma
Tetragonia tetragonoides
Tussock grasses
coast spear grass
coast tussock grass
Austrostipa stipoides
Poa poiformis
Heath
Leptospermum, Melaleuca, some other plants in the Myrtaceae
and Asteraceae family
coastal tea-trees, paperbarks, daisy shrubs
Scrub
tea-trees, paperbarks
coastal daisy shrubs
Plants in the Myrtaceae family
Plants in the Asteraceae family
Woodland
she-oaks
Allocasuarina species
Low forest
Further
away from
the sea
black peppermint
blue gum
Smithton peppermint
white gum
Eucalyptus amygdalina
Eucalyptus globulus (E)
Eucalyptus nitida (NW/W)
Eucalyptus viminalis
Table 14.2 Zones where native plants grow on headlands and cliffs.
The lee faces of the dunes carry a closed scrub of
Banksia marginata and Leucopogon parviflorus but
on the more disturbed dunes, Acacia longifolia subsp.
sophorae and Acacia verticillata are more common.
Damp dune hollows are dominated by species of
Hydrocotyle (pennyworts) and Ficinia (club sedge)
and sometimes Ammobium calyceroides (a small
endemic daisy).
Consolidated dunes further inland are clothed in
Leptospermum scoparium, Melaleuca squarrosa and
Leucopogon heathland, with woodlands of Melaleuca
ericifolia in wet areas. Older dunes inland are covered
with Eucalyptus nitida open heathland.
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Zones where native plants grow in saltmarsh
Areas most frequently submerged by the tide
Sarcocornia quinqueflora
Samolus repens
beaded glasswort
creeping brookweed
Areas less frequently submerged
Suaeda australis
Juncus kraussii
Sclerostegia arbuscula
Hemichroa pentandra
Selliera radicans
seablite
sea rush
shrubby glasswort
trailing hemichroa
swampweed
Slightly raised areas
Sarcocornia blackiana
Disphyma crassifolium
Gahnia filum
Austrostipa stipoides
thickhead glasswort
round-leaved pigface
chaffy saw-sedge
coast spear grass
Drier areas
Poa poiformis
Distichlis distichophylla
Tetragonia implexicoma
Atriplex cinerea
Ficinia nodosa (formerly Isolepis nodosa)
coast tussock grass
salt grass
bower spinach
grey saltbush
knobby club-rush
Table 14.3 Zones where native plants grow in saltmarsh. Note that drainage of waterways into the saltmarsh from the land and salinity
variations also heavily influence zonation in saltmarsh areas and result in a mosaic of species rather than distinct bands from the
shoreline.
Rocky shore vegetation
The quartzite and conglomerate rocky shores on
the west coast and south coast carry distinctly
different shrub and heath species. A narrow zone of
Austrostipa stipoides, Disphyma crassifolium and
Plantago triantha (halophyte plantain) is backed by
heath, often dominated by endemic shrubs including
Leptecophylla abietina, Correa backhouseana,
Westringia brevifolia (native rosemary) and
Ozothamnus reticulatus, backed by Leptospermum
species and Banksia marginata scrub.
Unstable slopes are frequently dominated by
Leucophyta brownii.
Part C: How to do it C23
14.8 Avoid spreading weeds
and diseases
Make sure that your revegetation work doesn’t spread
weeds or disease. It’s good practice to wash boots,
tools and other gear before and after working on any
site, just in case soil-borne diseases are present.
If you know there is a risk of disease in your area then
these practices become essential.
Phytophthora, known as root rot, affects many
coastal species especially shrubs in the heath
(Epacridaceae), pea (Fabaceae) and Proteaceae
families, as well as grass trees (Xanthorrhoea
species). Root rot spores can hitch a ride on your
boots, equipment and vehicles if you move from an
infested area to a clean area. If you do work in an
infested area, stay on formed tracks and clean all the
dirt from your gear before leaving the area.
Weed seeds can also be spread on boots, equipment
and vehicles. Take care if bringing vehicles and trailers
onto your site. Clean all equipment before moving
from one site to another. Remind your volunteers to
only bring clean boots and equipment to working bees
and to clean them at the end too.
14.9 Revegetation
techniques
Often the best method is to simply help natural
regeneration of the remnant local species that
remain. However in highly degraded areas, direct
seeding or plantings are usually required. You might
plant seedlings grown in a local nursery or by the
Understorey Network. You can propagate your
own plants from local seeds and grow them up in a
Coastcarer’s garden, or spread seeds into properly
prepared soil.
Helping natural regeneration
This approach to revegetation is the cheapest and
the most likely to be successful, as long as there is
some existing native vegetation. Natural regeneration
can be greatly assisted by restricting access to allow
the vegetation to grow back without being trampled.
Fencing is the most reliable way to keep people,
vehicles and domestic stock away.
C24
Plastic tree guards are useful to protect young plants from
browsing, trampling and wind, but may attract vandals. Tree
guards can increase wind erosion if used on shifting sands.
Regeneration can be assisted by laying down
branches cut from local shrubs in summer, with
ripe seed attached, Banksia marginata and species
of Leucopogon, Acacia, Leptospermum and
Allocasuarina are all suitable. The branches will stay
in position if the butt ends are pushed into the sand so
they are aligned with the prevailing wind direction.
Planting seedlings
Planting seedlings grown in pots or tubes (tubestock)
is a labour-intensive and expensive method. If the
seedlings are planted carefully during the wet season,
this method can be quite successful. Weeds should be
removed from the site and the pots before planting.
If planting late in the season on dry sites, mix some
water-absorbing pellets into the sand before the plant
goes into its planting hole.
Plant seedlings when they are about 10–20 cm high
with a well-developed root system. If at all possible,
arrange a water supply to water-in the plants. In very
wet places, little channels can be made to divert water
to the revegetation site.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Planting trees to enhance habitat for the threatened forty-spotted pardalote on Bruny Island.
Where a tap is available nearby, some groups invest in
a long hose so that the plants can be watered before
and after planting. This greatly improves the survival
rate and is essential if the soil is dry. (Beware of theft
and vandalism of hoses).
Plants will survive better if placed in clumps (to
protect each other from wind and create a favourable
micro-climate) but not so closely that they will
compete for water. On more sheltered sites, a
mixture of species with an understorey of shrubs and
groundcovers will most closely resemble the natural
vegetation.
To encourage sturdy growth, do not stake the plants.
The plant spacing depends on the site, but as a
general rule of thumb:
»» Plant trees 1–3 m apart
»» Plant shrubs 1–2 m apart
»» Plant 2–3 grasses/groundcover per square metre
Some groups use a fire-fighting
backpack for watering.
For successful planting, follow these tips:
Water seedlings well, a few hours before planting.
Scrape any loose sand from the surface until you
reach moist sand or soil. Use a sturdy trowel or spade
to form a hole in the moist soil slightly deeper and
twice as wide as the tube.
If the sand is at all dry, water the hole with 1–3 litres of
water and allow the water to drain away. In pure sand,
placing a handful of composted mulch at the bottom
of the planting hole is beneficial.
Gently remove the plant from its tube – first trimming
any roots growing out of the tube (cut some leaves
off if you trim roots). Hold the stem between your
fingers to support it but do not pull the plant out by
the stem. Instead, turn the tube upside down and
squeeze gently. If the plant doesn’t move, tap the edge
sharply on a spade handle or other solid object. Slide
the plant out with the root mass and soil resting in the
palm of your hand.
Slide the plant into the hole so that the soil from the
tube is slightly below ground level. Take care not to
disturb the roots. Loosen the roots if they are bound
around in the shape of the pot. Round off the soil top
to direct water down the side to the roots.
Part C: How to do it C25
Press the soil firmly around the base of the seedling,
leaving a slight depression for 30 cm around the stem
to trap water.
Gently water the plant with at least one litre of water.
Replace any surface mulch to conserve water and
control weeds (or add a light mulch of brush, dead
leaves or seed-free weeds).
Dead bracken fronds, grass tussocks or twigs stuck
into the ground make unobtrusive plant guards.
Fertiliser is not necessary and may encourage the
growth of weeds that will out-compete the native
plants. Fertiliser is harmful for species such as
casuarinas, acacias and banksias that rely on certain
soil microbes (bacteria and fungi) to assist nutrient
uptake. However, the survival of some seedlings
on deep sandy sites is improved by adding a small
handful of slow-release fertiliser (suitable for native
seedlings) to the planting hole.
Casuarinas, acacias and banksias will grow better if
you apply a mulch of leaves or a little soil from around
healthy specimens of the same species growing
nearby – some of the microbes are present in the
fallen leaves found under mature plants.
Direct seeding by hand
Seed of some species will germinate better if it is pretreated before sowing (see Chapter 15). Mix fine seed
with damp perlite beads in a clear resealable plastic
bag such as a sandwich bag. Seal the bag tightly,
taking care not to expel all of the air. For larger seed,
use a clean potting mix with fine particles (you can
add perlite or another moisture-holding additive).
Using cuttings and layering on-site
Cuttings are a quick and easy way to grow creepers
and shrubs in sheltered sites where the soil is moist.
Simply cut off branch tips a few centimetres long
(without flowers or seed heads). Gently pull or snip
off the lower leaves and place the cutting into the soil.
Some species will need to have the cut end briefly
treated with a rooting hormone. Firm the soil gently
around the cutting. Protect with brush fencing or
mulch to provide shade and trap moisture. Tetragonia
and Carpobrotus both grow well using this method.
Atriplex responds well to layering. To encourage
layering, scrape a small hole in the underside of the
bark, or cambium, of the branch and treat with rooting
hormone. Then hold the lower branches in place along
the ground with tent pegs and cover the branches
lightly with sand or soil in a couple of places.
Direct seeding is the spreading of seed onto carefully
prepared soil, which must be thoroughly weed-free
(this can take two years or more of weeding). This
method can be successful but the soil conditions
must be just right and follow-up weeding is essential.
Scrape the top centimetres of soil with a rake-hoe (a
fire-fighting tool), sprinkle a pinch of seeds, lightly
rake them into the soil and firm the soil with the back
of the rake-hoe. The seeds should be buried at a
depth about 1–2 times their size.
Seeds can be collected in spring and summer (see
Chapter 15) and planted in late autumn or winter.
Assistance is available from organisations such as
the Understorey Network, Greening Australia and the
Australian Plants Society Tasmania, as well as native
plant nurseries and commercial seed collectors.
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
You will need a permit to take
cuttings from specimens on public
land or from species listed under the
Threatened Species Protection Act 1995.
Contact Flora Officers within DPIPWE.
PART C How to do it
14.10 Follow-up care and
monitoring
Regular weekly watering for the first few weeks will
help the plants survive until they develop deep roots.
Less frequent deep watering is better than frequent
light watering. The best times to water are early
morning or late evening.
Weed control is vital for a few years after planting
on disturbed sites. Once the vegetation is well
established, it may be possible to remove fences
in less heavily-used areas. Watch out for native
herbivores.
Regular patrols of the area are important to check for
sporadic damage by inappropriate access, vandals,
fires or storms. In these situations it is important to
quickly notify the land manager, there may be urgent
works required.
It is important to check for weeds and to remove any
tree guards when the plants outgrow them.
Monitoring is another important aspect to consider.
Record your revegetation progress by taking notes and
before and after photos (see Chapter 13). This is useful
for working out which species are more successful.
15. Growing your
own plants
15.1 To grow or not to grow
15.2 Plant Hygiene
15.3 Propagation mixes and other equipment
15.4 Propagation techniques
15.5 Collecting seed for propagation of native plants
15.6 Seed cleaning, storage and treatment
15.7 More things you can do
Growing new plants from existing plants
can be fun and rewarding and may be a
great activity for a volunteer with a keen
interest in gardening.
It is important to only grow plants
that have been propagated from local
vegetation. This local provenance stock
is adapted to the local conditions and is
often genetically distinct from the same
species growing elsewhere.
15.1 To grow or not to grow
Growing your own native plants takes time, patience
and commitment. The Understorey Network supports
a network of volunteer growers across Tasmania.
Members receive a comprehensive guidebook and
seeds as well as ongoing support and advice.
If you are unable to grow your own, your land manager
may be able to assist by growing plants in their
nursery. It is worth asking if your local Tasmanian
native plant nursery will collect seeds and cuttings
from your location and grow them at low cost.
Growing plants for rehabilitation is quite different from
growing for ornamental gardens. The aim is to produce
tough plants with deep root systems that will survive
being planted out in the coastal environment.
It is best to grow the plants outdoors, without the use
of a glasshouse or shadehouse. This way the plants will
tolerate the natural conditions found in your area.
Part C: How to do it C27
Types of potting mix for plant propagation
A good potting mix
for growing cuttings and
potting on seedlings
(as recommended by the
Understorey Network)
7 parts composted pinebark
1 part river sand (coarse sand)
1 part cocopeat
Growing mix for
striking cuttings
2 parts coarse sand
2 parts vermiculite or perlite
1 part cocopeat
A good general
seed-raising mix
1 part river sand
1 part cocopeat
1 part vermiculite
Use certified sterile materials.
Add trace elements in very small quantities
(1 teaspoon/60 litres of mix)
Add controlled release fertilizer (osmocote)
for natives (about 50g/60 litres of mix).
There is no need to add nutrients because
seeds have their own food reserves. Use this
mix if you plan to prick-out the seedlings when
they are very small.
A permit is required to collect seed
from public land or to collect seed for
plant species listed under the Threatened
Species Protection Act 1995. Please
contact staff in DPIPWE if you plan to
collect on public land or propagate any
rare or threatened species.
The main propagation methods are by seed, cuttings
and division. Many common coastal plants will
propagate readily from one or more of these methods
during spring or autumn.
The Understorey Network website includes a
propagation database with information about seed
treatment and germination time for around 200
Tasmanian native species with photographs for ID
purposes. The Florabank website also includes lots of
information about collecting seed. Growing Australian
Native Plants from Seed is another great resource.
General propagation techniques are explained in the
Understorey Network’s Guide to growing native plants
in Tasmania 2nd ed. Many of the instructions in this
chapter are based on this guide and this information is
reproduced with permission. The techniques detailed
here are suitable for coastal plants.
Growing your own plants and planting tubestock is a very
rewarding activity for many Coastcare volunteers.
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
15.2 Plant hygiene
Take care not to introduce plant diseases like
Phytophthora cinnamomi to rehabilitation areas.
Check whether any diseases are in the area and seek
advice when planning to plant in susceptible plant
communities.
Don’t dig up plants from the bush or take seed or
cuttings from plants in infected areas. Check your
propagated plants for signs of disease before planting.
Seek advice if you suspect some plants may be
affected, remember the whole batch may be infected.
Take care not to introduce weed seeds to new sites on
your tools, boots, clothes or vehicle. Brush any weed
seeds off your equipment before leaving a site where
weeds are present.
Ensure that any plants that you bring into a site do not
have weeds growing in the pots.
Protect yourself from Legionella (a
respiratory disease). Dampen potting mix
before handling it. Avoid inhaling dust –
use a dust mask. Wear gloves and wash
your hands after handling potting mix.
15.3 Propagation mixes and
other equipment
Propagation mixes suitable for potting or growing seed
of native plants can be purchased from nurseries and
supermarkets. You can make your own propagation
mixes but they must be sterilised to avoid spreading
disease. Heat them in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes
or 100°C for 10 minutes, and allow to cool.
The tubes, punnets or grow bags need to be placed in
a box or tray. Polystyrene boxes from the supermarket
are cheap and can hold 40–60 tubes or up to 100
plastic grow bags. The drawback is that roots tend to
grow out of the tubes or grow bags, attracted to the
moisture collecting in the bottom of the box. Trays
made from weldmesh are an expensive but excellent
alternative container for native tubes, as the roots are
‘air-pruned’.
Quantities of propagation
mix for 100 containers
25 mm x 125 mm native tubes
33 litres of mix
Plastic grow bags
17 litres of mix
120 mm pots
120 litres of mix
For potting-on seedlings, the use of a dibber (a
wooden dowel, sharpened at one end like a pencil)
reduces damage to the root system.
Useful supplies for propagation:
»» plant labels and labeling pens
»» plastic tubes, grow bags or seed trays
»» polystyrene boxes or weldmesh trays to hold the
tubes
»» dibber
»» gloves
»» trowel or scoop
»» disinfectant e.g. household bleach (diluted at
20 ml per litre of water it keeps for a week),
methylated spirits (diluted by one-half) or tea tree
oil (follow the instructions on the bottle)
»» dust mask
»» watering equipment
»» workbench (to save your back)
15.4 Propagation techniques
Propagation from cuttings - the
Understorey Network way
The Understorey Network Guide to growing native
plants in Tasmania 2nd ed. has detailed information
about taking and striking cuttings. The following is a
brief summary to give you a feel for what is required.
Most native plants will grow from cuttings. The
exceptions include eucalypts, casuarinas and some
acacias.
Part C: How to do it C29
Propagation by division
Grasses and sedges can be propagated by dividing the
tussocks. Use a mattock to divide them into sections,
preferably after watering. Lift the plants carefully to
retain the roots, and cut back the tops to about 10 cm.
Divide the clumps into small sections and plant in 5
cm diameter tubes filled with potting mix and a little
slow-release fertiliser.
The plants should be divided just before or during
the start of the root-growing season, which will vary
from species to species, and may be in late autumn, in
winter or in early spring.
Taking cuttings
Identify plants carefully. Choose healthy looking
plants and take cuttings first thing in the morning
for best results. You will need a permit (if collecting
from public land), secateurs, plastic bags (damp to
keep plants fresh) labels to identify plants you have
collected. You might consider recording on a map or
GPS where plants were obtained.
Striking cuttings
Set up a clean workspace, have your tools, labels, pots
and growing mix ready as well as some clean water,
disinfectant solution and rooting hormone. (Use a
rooting hormone designed for semi-hardwood such
as “Clonex Purple”). Be sure to disinfect your cuttings
and keep them wet at all times by storing in water
until you are ready to disinfect and dip in rooting
hormone.
Ensure that your potting mix is moist prior to taking
your cutting to avoid the need for watering once the
cuttings are in the trays.
Do not over water, a gentle spray or bottom watering
method is best. Keep them in dappled shade away
from wind and garden pests. You might consider
making a mini greenhouse with plastic to help protect
your cuttings.
Rooting time will vary depending on the season. Check
by looking for roots, new shoots do not guarantee
successful rooting. If you have put more than one
cutting in a pot you will need to transfer each cutting
to its own pot once rooting has occurred.
C30
Take care when using mattocks.
Always ensure no-one is standing within
1 metre behind you and never raise the
mattock above shoulder height to avoid
striking another person.
Propagation from seed
Many native plants can be propagated by seed and
it is the only method that works for eucalypts. Plan
ahead. The seedlings will not be ready to plant until
the year following sowing.
Seed can be obtained from commercial suppliers
or collected from local vegetation. The Understorey
Network provides members with seeds, advice and a
copy of their comprehensive growers guide.
Seeds may require pre-treatment. See section 15.6
and Table 15.2.
Use a specially prepared potting mix or make your
own, see section 15.3. Do not allow ordinary soil to
contact the potting mix.
Before use, wash your bench top, trowels and other
tools with disinfectant. Wash your hands with soap
and disinfectant before filling tubes or sowing seeds
and between handling different batches of seed.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Grow just one seedling per tube
until it is ready for planting. There is no
transplanting at any stage to weaken the
seedlings.
Steps for sowing seed in punnets
»» Pre-treat seed if necessary.
»» Prepare seed raising mix, moisten to avoid
breathing in dust.
»» Place the seed-raising mix in a clean punnet
(disinfect old punnets). Shake the soil down very
gently to make an even flat surface, about 10 –
15mm below the top. Do not push the soil down
firmly or jolt the container because this removes
air spaces and excludes oxygen from the soil.
»» Place punnets on a tray (e.g. an old plastic meat
tray with a ripple bottom).
»» Spread the seed evenly over the surface of the mix
in punnets, and then cover with a shallow layer of
seed-raising mix. Do not firm down. Don’t forget
to label!
»» Water punnets by pouring water into the tray
(bottom watering) and the mixture should absorb
the moisture by capillary action (if this does not
happen spray lightly with water). Continue to
water by this method.
»» Place punnets in a warm sheltered place.
»» Seedlings in punnets will need to be transplanted
to larger pots when they are 10 – 30 mm high to
continue growing.
Some species may take several months to germinate.
Germination is not always predictable, especially in
some native species that germinate in stages as a
survival strategy. You may find that you get a rush of
germination within the expected time and then the
remainder of the seed comes through intermittently
afterwards.
The Understorey Network bog propagation
method
To propagate species that grow in coastal wetlands
such as saltmarshes, the soil must be kept very moist
all the time. Use the bog method, which is similar to
bottom watering, but the propagation containers are
kept in deeper water.
Grow the seeds or cuttings in pots or trays standing
in water, with the water level maintained a few cm
below the soil level at all times. For each species, the
water level should be similar to that experienced by
the plant in its natural environment. For instance,
for species growing in deep permanent water, keep
the water level just below the soil level in the pot. For
species growing in less wet sites, keep the water level
much lower.
Most wetland plants have seed that requires light
for good germination, so leave seed uncovered (and
protect from wind and birds) or cover very sparsely
with potting mix. Mix tiny seed with very fine sand
before sowing to help spread the seeds evenly.
Step by step guidelines and tips are available in The
Understorey Network Guide to growing native plants
in Tasmania 2nd ed. See Part E: More Information.
Keep the potting mix wet but do not over water. Once
germinated water once a day, do not water at night
which attracts slugs end encourages fungal disease.
Part C: How to do it C31
15.5 Collecting seed for
propagation of native plants
Decide which native species to collect and find out
when their seeds are ready. Most plants have seeds
that ripen in summer or autumn. Appendix 1 has
propagation information for most coastal species.
Avoid unnecessary risks such as
climbing trees without a safety helmet. If
you plan to use heavy-duty loppers or a
stepladder, work with other people, not
by yourself.
Collect seed as close to the revegetation site as
possible so it is of the same provenance (genetically
similar) to the local plants. Identify your plants
carefully with the use of a guide.
Seed timelines, available on the Understorey Network
website, show the best months to collect seed for
each species. The time when seed is ready can vary
from year to year, depending on the weather, so start
looking in December.
Avoid collecting in wet weather as the seeds may go
mouldy.
Tips for collecting good quality seed
»» Open a few seed pods or capsules to see if there is
any seed there. A magnifying glass can help to see
tiny seed such as grass seed.
»» Do you have ripe seed? Ripe seed is dark in colour
– green seed will not grow.
»» Collect from as many different plants as possible
to get a range of genetic material.
»» Take no more than 10% of the seeds from any one
plant.
»» Label each bag of seeds with the specific location,
the plant species and the date. Putting a tag or
other label inside the bag will help you to keep
track of the seed when it is cleaned.
A permit is required to collect seed
from public land or to collect seed for
plant species listed under the Threatened
Species Protection Act 1995. Please
contact staff in DPIPWE if you plan to
collect on public land or propagate any
rare or threatened species.
Small amounts of seed can be collected into paper
bags, be sure to label them. Large amounts of seed or
twigs can be collected into cardboard boxes or onto
a groundsheet. Do not take too much seed from one
plant.
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15.6 Seed cleaning, storage
and treatment
The seed capsules often require drying to extract
the seed. Some species may need heat treatment to
release the seed. Some seed requires cleaning before
it is stored. Clean and dry as soon as possible after
collecting to avoid seeds going mouldy.
First remove leaves and other material that may
hide insects, especially Allocasuarina needles which
produce substances that inhibit germination. Dry the
seed capsules to extract the seed.
Small amounts of capsules or seed pods can be dried
in paper bags, envelopes or open trays in a warm
room with good air circulation, away from rats, mice,
birds and other animals.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Wear a dust mask or respirator if
you suffer from allergies or asthma when
collecting seed from daisies and other
plants with dusty seed.
Dry larger amounts by spreading them onto sheets
laid in the sun or suspended from the ceiling in
bags for good ventilation. Turn the pods regularly to
prevent sweating and ensure even drying.
Once the seed is released, use sieves to separate the
seed from other material. It is not necessary to clean
the seed completely. With fine seed, you risk losing
too much seed.
Store the seed in a cool dry place in labelled
containers.
More information about storage is available from
Florabank and The Understorey Network Guide to
growing native plants in Tasmania 2nd ed.
Pre-treatment of seed
Most soft seed germinates easily but some species
have very hard-coated seed. Others need treatment
to break dormancy or allow ‘after-ripening’ – these
strategies delay germination until conditions are right
for survival in the wild. Pre-treat seeds just prior to
planting.
There are a number of different techniques used
to treat seeds and the type used depends on the
species. Refer to table 15.2 and to Appendix 1 for more
information about individual coastal plant species.
Some acacias and peas have a hard seed coat that
must be ‘broken’ with hot water (not boiling) before
sowing to imitate the effect of a bushfire. Some seeds
benefit from soaking for 2–3 days in tomato soup,
which is mildly acidic.
Some seeds contain chemicals that inhibit
germination and benefit by soaking in water for up to
3 days in a muslin bag or stocking. Change the water
once or twice daily.
The seed of some species, including Correa, requires
leaching for several weeks. A toilet cistern provides
the perfect regularly-flushed environment – put the
seeds in a nylon stocking and place it in the cistern,
with the top draped over the upper edge.
Giving away or selling native seedlings is a great way to educate
your local community about the coastal vegetation in your area.
Dry woodland vegetation including some common
coastal plants, respond well to the chemicals in
bushfire smoke. You can imitate this effect by applying
‘smoke-water’ after sowing.
Diplarrena moraea and Bedfordia salicina
germination is improved by soaking the seed in
smoke-water before planting. Other plants may
benefit from smoking the propagation mix before you
sow seed or plant cuttings. Water the mix first so it is
slightly moist but not wet.
Smoking the propogation mix improves germination
of Acacia mearnsii, Acacia melanoxylon, Astroloma
humifusum, Banksia marginata, Bursaria spinosa,
Chrysocephalum apiculatum, Dianella revoluta,
Diplarrena moraea, Epacris impressa, Leptospermum
scoparium, Melaleuca ericifolia and Xanthorrhoea.
Smoke can improve the growth of cuttings of some
species, especially tea-trees.
Some plants are toxic and others may
cause allergic reactions, so wear gloves
and a dust mask and work in a wellventilated area or near a household fan
to blow dust away.
Part C: How to do it C33
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
Fleshy fruits
Myoporum insulare,
Dianella
Acacias
Grasses and sedges
Poaceae and
Cyperaceae families
The small seeds of daisies such as Ozothamnus, Helichrysum and Senecio are generally ready to collect when the flowers start to dry and
become fluffy. Ripe seed is easy to dislodge. Remove flowerheads and place in a paper bag.
Daisies
Asteraceae family
Digestion: The fleshy seeds germinate better if you weaken the seed coat by digestion or fermentation. Place the fresh ripe fruits in a
sealed plastic bag with a little water and put in a warm place for 2–3 weeks before sowing. It may be beneficial to add about 1 ml of smoke
water to the bag (where recommended) or 2 ml of vinegar (a mild acid). Then gently mash and strain the seeds away from the flesh, wash
in fresh water and allow them to dry for a couple of hours before sowing.
The fleshy fruits darken when ripe and drop to the ground. The fruit can be gently picked off by hand. Place the fruits in a plastic bag
because they tend to make paper bags soggy.
Another way to scarify seed is to rub it between two sheets of medium to coarse sandpaper.
Scarification: A fiddly but effective method of breaking the hard coat of acacia seed and some other large seed is pricking, nicking or
filing it with a sharp knife or a nail file. First find the scar on the seed coat where it once joined the pod, then cut the other end of the seed,
a bit to one side, to slightly expose the white embryo. Soak the treated seed in water for 24 hours before sowing.
Pick pods just as they start to dry and change colour. Remove pods by hand or shake onto a sheet.
After-ripening: The seed of many native grasses and herbaceous species may be released when it is still immature. The seed may look
mature but needs a period of ‘after-ripening’ at room temperature before it will germinate, usually 3–12 months.
For sedges, Poa and other tussock grasses with small seeds, grasp a handful of flower stalks and cut with secateurs. Do not turn the
flower-heads upside down until you put them in a bag, or some seed may drop off. Thresh the heads once in the bag to remove the seeds.
Grasses and sedges tend to ripen unevenly, from December through to January. Collect seed when the first seeds are mature. Run your
fingers upwards along the flowerhead with a gentle pressure to test if the seed is beginning to fall. This is the easiest way to remove the
ripe seed from most grasses.
A small portable vacuum cleaner is useful for collecting this type of fine seed. (Empty the vacuum cleaner first!)
Seed collection or treatment
Type of plant group
Tips for collecting seed from common coastal plant groups.
Most eucalypts can be collected all year round from gum nuts (capsules) when they are brown with obvious valves that are still tightly
closed. Eucalypts can be difficult to identify. One of the key features is the number of capsules in a cluster – record the number of young
buds as some may die before maturity.
Dry heat: Some species with hard cones such as banksia may be slow to release their seed. Keep the cones in a paper bag in the sun or
on top of a warm stove.
Collect the oldest cones when they are brown or grey and hard, but the valves haven’t opened. Cones can be collected at almost any time
of year. Picking unopened hakea cones and sitting them in the sun will result in them opening and releasing their two-winged seeds.
After treatment, if you can’t sow seeds immediately, mix them with kitty litter moistened with water and put in a muslin bag in the fridge.
Pour the hot water over the seeds in a basin, stir well and leave to soak for 12–24 hours. Discard seeds that float. The swollen seeds can
then be sown. You can sow seeds that did not swell, but germination may be slower (pour a second lot of hot water over them for 12–24
hours before sowing).
Soaking: Cover the seeds with hot water, about 4–5 times the volume of seed. Use water just off the boil for hard peas. For pea seeds with
a softer coat use hot water (70–90°C).
2. Enclose the pods in a nylon stocking tied firmly in place and inspect regularly.
1. Cut off small branches or twigs with the ripe seed pods attached (the pods need to be attached to the branches to split open). Use
secateurs to trim leaves and other material away from the pods. Store in paper bags until the pods open and release the seed.
Monitor the pods closely for ripeness because the seed is forcibly ejected and dispersed over a very short period of time (1–2 days). There
are two ways of collecting the seed:
Table 15.2: Tips for collecting and treating seed from common coastal plant groups. Information reproduced from Thorp, V. 2011 Understorey
Network Guide to growing native plants in Tasmania, 2nd edition.
Eucalypts
Hard cones
casuarinas, tea trees,
melaleucas, banksias
and hakeas
Peas
Bossiaea, Dillwynia,
Pultenaea
PART C How to do it
Part C: How to do it C35
Weeds can dominate a vegetation community.
A simple seed smoking system from the
Understorey Network
A covered kettle-style barbecue can be used to set up
a simple smoking system. Light a small fire with bush
litter and green material (2/3 old bark and leaves and
1/3 green leaves) in the barbecue and wait until it is
smouldering (very hot smoke can damage the seed).
Place the propagation mix in a fine metal sieve or wire
basket in the barbecue and put the lid on. Smoke for
two hours. The smoked mix will keep up to a week in a
tightly sealed plastic bag at 5°C (in the middle section
of a fridge).
15.7 More things you can do
Organise a seed collecting day and involve a local
botanist or invite a leading expert that can share
knowledge of local plants with your group.
Organise a seed cleaning, sorting and pre-treatment
session. This is a great way to teach other members of
your group how to do it.
Seek out donations of ingredients and materials for
making your propagation potting mixes.
Hold a native garden information session and let
locals in your area know about landscaping with native
local vegetation. NRM South’s Native Gardens Booklet:
A planting and landscaping guide for the southern
region of Tasmania is a great resource for those in
southern Tasmania. See Part E: More Information.
Propagating plants can be lots of fun and a great way
to involve others who may not have the enthusiasm for
heavier tasks.
Consider involving students from the local school,
it is a great opportunity for them to learn about the
different plant species, and their fruits and seeds.
Students might enjoy preparing the seed beds or
planting out some of the excess plants in a native
garden at their school.
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
16. Identifying and
managing weeds
16.1
16.2
16.3
16.4
16.5
16.6
16.7
16.8
16.9
16.10
16.11
Effective weed management
Identifying weeds
Types of weeds
Planning weed control
Non herbicide control techniques
Before using herbicides
Using herbicides safely
Herbicide control methods
Timing and follow-up
Avoid spreading weeds
Telling your community
Weeds change coastal vegetation and
threaten diversity of insects, birds and
other animals that depend on native
plants. These introduced plants have
few or no predators to keep them under
control.
Weeds can be spread by water, wind,
birds and other animals and of course
people. Seeds are spread by footwear,
clothing and vehicles. Weeds are also
introduced to coastal reserves from
dumping garden waste (lawn clippings,
prunings, bulbs, unwanted plants and
soil) and plants escaping from nearby
gardens.
Weeding is an important part of
rehabilitating degraded coastal areas.
Weeds are difficult to eradicate but
can be controlled through a carefully
planned weeding and weed replacement
strategy. Most importantly new weed
infestations can be avoided with careful
management.
Soil disturbance from the removal of
weeds can promote new weed growth,
destabilise dunes, impact on Aboriginal
heritage and increase erosion. This
chapter will help you develop an
effective weed management strategy and
minimise any adverse impacts.
16.1 Effective weed
management
Removing weeds is only a small part of good
weed management which aims to maintain native
biodiversity and landscapes and increase resistance to
invasion by weeds. Protecting sites that are weed free,
revegetating degraded sites and improving soil health
are all part of effective weed management.
Tasmanian Weed Alert
Network
The Tasmanian Weed Alert Network
(coordinated by DPIPWE) consists of
volunteers on the lookout for new or
uncommon weeds that would pose
a significant threat if they became
established. Volunteers all over the
state include farmers, agronomists,
Local and State Government staff, field
naturalists, botanical consultants,
weed control operators and interested
members of the public.
Comprehensive guidelines about
collecting specimens are on the DPIPWE
website, including safe ways to collect
specimens, how to record information
and a weed reporting form. There are
information sheets for each of the
weeds on the list and these are available
as PDF’s on the DPIPWE website.
Part C: How to do it C37
Many coastal sites have a large number of weeds
present from grasses and small herbs through to
large shrubs or trees. It is not possible to eradicate all
weeds, so expert advice, long term planning and an
integrated approach is critical to success.
If something new comes up, seek
advice, don’t just pull it out. Reporting
new weeds is extremely important,
and helps land managers to address
emerging weed problems. If you don’t
know what it is, send it to DPIPWE or the
herbarium for identification.
Before embarking on any weed management you need
to ask: What is the weed? What is the situation? What
is the best method for control?
Always consult with the local council or other land
manager before you attempt any weed removal.
The best methods of controlling particular weeds
are constantly being updated. The Invasive Species
Management Section of DPIPWE maintains an
informative website and has Regional Weed
Management Officers who can offer advice.
Boneseed seedlings have emerged where an adult plant has
been removed and follow-up weeding is required
16.2 Identifying weeds
It is extremely important to correctly identify the
weeds on your site. Some of the most invasive weeds
are described in Appendix 3 but there are likely to
be other species present. A number of handbooks
and brochures are available to help with identifying
weeds. Many of these resources are listed in Part E:
More information. Consult these and talk to your land
manager before removing any plants that look like
weeds.
And of course, follow-up weeding is absolutely
essential as most weeds come back year after year
from seeds, bulbs or other persistent reproductive
structures. Weed control is a very rewarding but longterm job.
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
Remember to seek advice and gain
permission from the land manager
before weeding. An Aboriginal heritage
assessment may be necessary. If you
dig and find dense shells or artefacts,
stop work and ask the land manager to
contact Aboriginal Heritage Tasmania.
PART C How to do it
Ask a very experienced botanist for help with
identification because quite a few native plants can be
mistaken for weeds, including several native Senecio
species with yellow daisy flowers. Refer to Appendix 2
Native plants you might confuse with weeds.
Take particular care when working in saltmarsh areas
as there are many species here that you will not find
in other coastal areas and they can easily be mistaken
for weeds.
16.3 Types of weeds
Environmental weeds
Environmental weeds invade bushland and threaten
native plants. They are vigorous plants that grow or
reproduce faster than the native species. The most
serious environmental weeds can eventually exclude
the native vegetation and form monocultures.
Occasionally, plants that are
indigenous to some parts of Tasmania
become environmental weeds in other
parts. For instance Leptospermum
laevigatum (coast tea-tree), which is
native to the shores of Bass Strait, has
spread to coastal areas in southern
Tasmania, where it is regarded as a weed.
One mature boneseed shrub can produce 60 000
seeds annually and these remain viable in the soil for
many years. Bridal creeper reproduces vegetatively
from root stems and tubers, which must be
completely removed or new plants will grow from even
small remaining pieces.
Some coastal weeds, such as marram grass and
radiata pine, were deliberately introduced in the past
to stabilise dunes. Others escaped from gardens –
these include banana passionfruit, blue periwinkle
and cotoneaster. Even mainland Australian native
plants, such as cape leeuwin wattle, can become
environmental weeds.
Weeds are classified according to their threat to
agriculture and the environment. These classifications,
along with legislation, policies and strategies, help
land managers prioritise weed management activities.
Resources have been produced for many of these
weed groups to assist with planning and undertaking
weed management.
Details of legislation and weed policies are available
on the DPIPWE website or from your local land
manager.
Declared weeds
The Tasmanian Weed Management Act 1999 requires
that each declared weed is contained or eradicated.
Approved Statutory Weed Management Plans
(SWMPs) for each weed are on the DPIPWE website.
The SWMP for each declared weed specifies what land
managers are required to do to manage that weed
within each municipality. It provides information about
the distribution and extent of the weed, restrictions
and measures required to control, eradicate or restrict
the spread of a weed.
Weedplan - Tasmania’s weed management strategy
and Response Plan are available on the DPIPWE
website.
Weeds of National Significance (WoNS)
Weeds of National Significance (WoNS) are listed in
the National Weeds Strategy: A strategic approach
to weed problems of National Significance. Seven of
the original 20 Weeds of National Significance occur in
Tasmania; blackberry, willow, serrated tussock, bridal
creeper, boneseed, Chilean needle grass and gorse.
New WoNS recently added that are present in
Tasmania are African boxthorn, canary broom,
English broom and asparagus fern. From time to
Part C: How to do it C39
time, Australian Government funding is targeted at
the management of WoNS weeds, because of their
national recognition. All WoNS referred to above are
declared under the Tasmanian Weed Management
Act 1999. For further information about WoNS visit the
WoNS website.
National Alert List weeds
Dune revegetation in Tasmania was previously based
on the incorrect notion that all dunes are naturally
well vegetated and stable and that active dune
movement was the result of poor land management.
As a consequence large areas of active dunes have
been stabilised by planting marram grass, including
most south-east beaches and the north-east coast
around Waterhouse.
The Alert List for Environmental Weeds, available on
the Australian Government weeds website, is a list
of 28 non-native plants that threaten biodiversity and
cause other environmental damage. Although only
in the early stages of establishment, these weeds
have the potential to seriously degrade Australia’s
ecosystems. In Tasmania these include Calluna
vulgaris or heather, orange hawkweed and horsetail
species.
Marram grass (and to a lesser extent sea spurge)
can severely affect the dynamics of the movement of
sand on the beach and foredune. Their rapid vertical
growth and rates of spread trap large amounts of
sand. They form much taller and steeper dunes
than native species would in the same situation.
In some instances, unnatural foredunes formed by
marram grass threaten wetlands behind the dunes by
interfering with drainage.
Tasmanian beach weeds
The Tasmanian beach weed strategy contains
information for identifying and managing sea spurge
(Euphorbia paralias), marram grass (Ammophila
arenaria), sea wheat grass (Thinopyrum junceiforme),
pyp grass (Erharta villosa) and beach daisy
(Arctotheca populifolia). The strategy is on the
DPIPWE weeds website.
In some areas, marram grass impacts on the nesting
habitat for shorebirds that rely on smaller dune faces
and bare patches for nesting sites.
Rice grass
Rice grass (Spartina anglica) is an invasive weed of
intertidal, muddy flats of estuaries that changes the
ecology and habitat, threatening the health of the
estuary. The Strategy for the management of rice
Sharing stories
Rice grass control
Members of Port Rubicon Coast and LandCare at
Port Sorell have developed an environmentallyfriendly technique of controlling small
infestations of rice grass. Hand digging and
slashing is followed by covering clumps with
black plastic sheeting or weed matting, held
down with wire pegs and steel stakes, for 3–4
months. This technique uses solarisation which
smothers the weed and uses the heat from
the sun to destroy it. The group was able to
effectively eradicate smaller areas of infestation.
Spraying with an approved herbicide is required
for larger areas. In developing the technique
the group had to adapt through trial and
error. They originally had problems with high
tides and wind lifting the plastic, so it needing
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bedding down regularly. They used chicken wire
to hold it down, but this became a problem
when it started to rust. When weed matting
was invented, it was easier to use, and they
pegged down the edges and threw mud on top.
The commitment and resourcefulness of this
group has seen them achieve results, receive
acknowledgement and awards and secure
support from other stakeholders in the ongoing
battle to prevent the spread of this weed.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
grass in Tasmania, Australia contains information for
identifying and managing this estuarine weed. The
strategy is on the DPIPWE weeds website.
16.4 Planning weed control
Planning is critical to the success of any weed
control works. A weed management plan may be a
comprehensive weed management document with a
number of signatories, or a simple site plan identifying
the problem and some control and management
steps.
Some simple planning will enable you to define the
weed problem and identify priorities to ensure your
hard work is not wasted. It will make it easier for you
to gain approval for activities from land managers,
secure funding and garner support from others
in your community. Before you start work, obtain
expert advice from your land manager about the best
strategies for removing the weeds and replacing them
with native vegetation.
Remember to gain permission from
the land manager before weeding.
Steps for successful weed control planning
Step 1: Identify and map weeds
Step 2: Identify weed control priorities
Step 3: Decide on weed control strategies
Step 4: Monitor and adapt
Step 1: Identify and map weeds - What is
there and where is it?
Good weed management planning starts with finding
out what weeds are present and mapping their
location and extent.
Have a look at your area and note the following:
»» weed species present
»» the locations and area of infestations (e.g. 10 m x
5 m)
»» the number and age of weeds (e.g. 10 scattered
seedlings, 4 mature seed-bearing plants).
»» activities that may have led to the infestation, such
as neighbouring gardens, dumped garden wastes
or soil disturbed by roadworks, pedestrians or
vehicles.
Use different colours to mark different weed
infestations on the map. Early spring is a good time
to map weeds, when they are starting to flower. Note
the times of year when each weed flowers, sets and
disperses seed. Update the maps as you control the
weeds.
Remember to identify other coastal
values in your area that might be
impacted by your weeding activities;
such as wildlife, threatened species and
Aboriginal heritage. Seek expert advice to
identify them correctly and plan how to
protect these values during your weeding
activities.
Step 2: Identify weed control priorities
- What is most threatening and worth
controlling?
Once you have identified and mapped your weeds
correctly, determine which weeds are actually a
problem or threat at your site.
Decide which weeds are worth tackling. It is often not
possible to tackle all weeds. Generally, aggressive
woody weeds like gorse, broom, spanish heath and
cotoneaster are considered far more serious than
small herbs and grasses. Some weeds, such as
some exotic grasses or dandelion, are not problems
and are not worth wasting time on. In some areas,
marram grass is so entrenched that it would require
enormous effort to remove and create considerable
environmental damage during the process.
The priorities are usually:
»» areas with fewest weeds
»» areas with aggressive weeds that could be easily
controlled
»» areas where weeds threaten important values.
Part C: How to do it C41
Step 3: Weed control methods – How are
you going to do it?
Define the weed control methods or techniques best
suited to your site, weeds and the capacity of your
group. A combination of techniques is usually most
effective. More information about control techniques
and methods in the following sections.
Weed management is only sustainable with careful
planning to steadily replace the weeded area with
indigenous species until the native vegetation
becomes re-established. This requires either careful
monitoring of natural regeneration and/or planting for
at least five to ten years along with persistent weeding.
Most small areas with small weed infestations will
recover naturally after the weeds are removed.
Weed control work is very satisfying when planned well.
Set realistic goals. It is better to concentrate your
efforts on some small problems and achieve control
rather than spreading your work too thinly. The weeds
will quickly proliferate once again if you can’t manage
the follow-up work required. It is also less daunting to
break up the area into manageable sections.
Preventing new infestations is the best way to control
weeds. This involves monitoring the area to detect
new outbreaks.
The problem with weeding a large area is that it
creates the ideal conditions for more weeds to grow
– soil disturbance and exposure to sunlight – and
exposes the site to erosion. There will be lots of
weed seeds in the soil waiting to germinate, creating
a potentially bigger weed problem that will require
years of major follow-up work. Unfortunately, planting
native species won’t completely control such a huge
regrowth of weeds because the natives tend to be
much slower to establish. A gradual removal of large
sites works best.
STEP 4: Monitor and adapt – What did you
do and what would you do differently?
Some techniques will be more successful than others.
It is important to look at what has worked and what
hasn’t and adapt techniques and strategies along the
way. This is called ‘adaptive management’.
Try to record details of the work you undertake, as this
will help you to determine when, and perhaps why, the
treatment has been successful, or has not worked.
Record the following at weed activities:
Weeds may play a role in protecting
wildlife. In areas lacking native
vegetation, birds and small marsupials
rely on shelter provided by weeds,
especially prickly ones that deter
predators. (Penguins often breed under
boxthorn). A staged replacement with
other species that provide shelter is
required.
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»»
»»
»»
»»
»»
the time of year activities took place;
the areas covered, number of people involved;
time taken;
method used; and
anything else you notice.
Ongoing monitoring should include:
»» Photopoint photos
»» Maps of changes to weed distribution
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Other groups can learn from your
experiences, both good and bad, so
please consider sharing what you have
learnt with other Coastcarers. The SCAT
Newsletter (or other state-wide or
regional newsletters and websites) are a
great way to do this.
Mattocks, pointed spades and hoes are useful tools
for digging out small numbers of plants. Remember
to take bags to remove plants with seeds, bulbs and
other pieces that could grow into plants.
Do you need an area to pile-up weed material after removal?
Seedless weed material can be used to close off unwanted
accessways.
»» Checking for new weed seedlings
»» Checking for regrowth of treated plants
»» Searching for and identifying any new weed
incursions
»» Determining what ongoing works are required and
when.
Plants that have not developed seeds can be left
on the ground with their roots turned upside down,
as long as they are not smothering native plants.
They will rot away and form valuable mulch on bare
patches.
Take care when using mattocks.
Always ensure no-one is standing within
1 metre behind you and never raise the
mattock above shoulder height to avoid
striking another person.
16.5 Non herbicide
control methods
Hand-pulling
Hand-pulling is simple, satisfying and requires no
special equipment. Soil disturbance should be
minimised to prevent more weeds from germinating.
Plants with shallow root systems such as boneseed
are easy to pull out, especially when young, and
are suitable for working bees involving children.
Small seedlings of pine, tree lucerne, broom and
cotoneaster can be quite easy to pull up when the
ground is moist. Try to prevent disturbance to the soil
(which leads to more weed invasion), by placing your
feet either side of the weed as you pull. However, get
out as much of the roots as possible.
Training is available on the safe use of brushcutters, otherwise
contractors can also be used.
Part C: How to do it C43
Boxthorn has vicious thorns that can
penetrate deeply even through solid
boots, clothing and tyres. Take great care
when cutting and disposing of this plant
– don’t leave branches where anyone
could get hurt. Burning may be the safest
option but is the responsibility of the
land manager and fire authorities. Seek
advice before tackling boxthorn.
Digging up small marram infestations is possible but
back-breaking because the roots are so long and
deep. Seek expert advice.
Mechanical methods
Chainsaws, brushcutters, slashers and other large
equipment can be useful to remove larger weeds
without chemicals, but they must be used by qualified
people who know about bush regeneration and always
with the permission of the land manager.
Contractors are a good source of labour. It is best
to leave the engagement of contractors to the land
manager. This ensures that legal obligations are
met and all parties are protected by the appropriate
insurance. Contractors must be chosen carefully
as equipment can cause terrible damage to habitat
if inappropriate methods are used or if equipment
has not been cleaned properly and new weeds are
introduced.
If you think your site could benefit from mechanical
weed removal please contact your land manager.
Your NRM or community facilitators within your local
council, PWS and NRM regional office will be able to
help you.
Biological control
In some areas, research is being done to control
certain weeds with insect predators and pathogens
from the country where the weed originated. Contact
DPIPWE to find out whether any biological control is
happening in your area before you use chemicals that
might work against it.
Fire is a risky management option
and burning should only ever be
undertaken by the land manager and fire
management authorities.
Sharing stories
One Coastcare group realised that the slashing
regime of their local council was inadvertently
favouring some weed grass species in the
reserves the group was caring for. The group
understood that the council had a responsibility
to keep the grass low during the summer but
was frustrated that the native grasses were not
reseeding and the weed grasses were taking
over. The group negotiated with the council
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and the works crew staff to shift the slashing
deadline by a couple of weeks which was
enough time to allow the native grasses to set
their seeds before being slashed. The group
advises that formalising such arrangements
with the land manager is essential to ensuring
such practices remain in place regardless of
changes to staff or group membership.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Environmental management
This involves changing the environmental conditions
to disadvantage the weeds and prevent their spread.
Techniques include over-planting to shade weeds and
slashing schedules that enable native seeds to set but
removes weed seed heads before they set and can
propagate.
Fire can be used to kill certain weeds and encourage
native species. However, burning is likely to lead to
massive seedling germination because it breaks the
dormancy of many weed seeds.
16.6 Before using herbicides
Herbicides can be useful and have the advantage of
not disturbing the soil. Herbicides should be used
with great care to ensure the safety of the user and the
protection of the environment.
Minimise the impact of herbicides
on the environment. Do not contaminate
streams, waterways, reservoirs
or channels – there are only a few
chemicals that are approved for use near
waterways. Avoid using chemicals where
bees are foraging.
All herbicides are designed to kill and the utmost
precautions need to be taken to avoid any risk of
contamination to the environment and ourselves.
The best way to do this is to undertake an accredited
course on herbicide use, such as ChemCert.
It is more environmentally friendly to use techniques
that target only the weed you are trying to kill. Check
the label to see if the herbicide you are using is very
mobile in the soil or prone to vaporisation (and likely
to drift onto non-target plants and kill them). Consider
the toxicity of the chemicals.
Have you chosen the right herbicide?
Check to see if the herbicide you have chosen is
registered for the intended use. Read the label and
see if there is a special licence to use the herbicide in
Tasmania for your purpose.
Checklist
Before you use herbicides check that
you have:
□□ Identified the weeds correctly.
□□ Sought permission from the land
manager.
□□ Sought expert advice.
□□ Ensured no biological control agents
are in use at your site.
□□ Checked that the herbicide you have
chosen will kill the target weeds.
□□ Read and understood the label on
the herbicide you are using.
□□ Selected the appropriate weed
control method for your site.
□□ The correct safety equipment and a
first aid kit.
□□ All the equipment necessary for the
task.
□□ Adequate water for rinsing spills.
□□ Organised a site where you can clean
the equipment after use.
□□ Before any herbicides are applied
the users should be briefed as
follows:
□□ Explain which herbicide/s are being
used.
□□ Go through the safety precautions.
□□ Explain what actions or first aid to
apply in the event of a spill.
□□ Demonstrate the correct application
techniques.
The label is not just the label glued
to the bottle – it also refers to the
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), often
contained in a plastic sleeve attached to
the bottle.
Part C: How to do it C45
Never remove the label from the bottle, and always
ensure that the label is on-site when undertaking
weed control work.
If in doubt, contact a Regional Weed Management
Officer at the Invasive Species Management section of
DPIPWE.
What is the Material Safety Data Sheet
MSDS?
The MSDS is the official document that accompanies
hazardous substances to provide the user, and
emergency and safety personnel with important
information about the physical and chemical
properties of the substance.
The label and MSDS are important documents.
You should read and understand the information
contained on the label. You must follow any
instructions to use the material safely. The MSDS must
always accompany the substance when in transport
or use.
Wear and use appropriate protective equipment when using
herbicides.
If you are at a working bee where
herbicides are being used ensure you
provide a bucket with soap and water
so that everyone can wash their hands
before eating a snack or lunch. Just in
case they touched a bottle, glove or tool
with herbicide on it.
You must NOT apply an agricultural chemical product
at variance with the label instructions, except under
a permit granted by the Australian Pesticide and
Veterinary Medicines Authority (APVMA). DPIPWE has
an off-label permit (PER13160) for the use of a range
of herbicides in non-crop and bushland situations.
This permit covers ‘persons generally’ and covers the
majority of herbicides used by community groups.
Individuals and community groups should obtain a
copy of this permit to have on-site when undertaking
weed control activities.
C46
16.7 Using herbicides safely
Personal health and safety are the most important
considerations for anyone handling herbicides.
Wearing personal protective equipment and having
adequate training for the task is essential. Spraying
or mixing of herbicides should only be undertaken by
those with more formal training such as ChemCert.
Consider the following safety precautions.
Personal safety
»» Read the label and wear the recommended safety
clothing.
»» Do not use herbicides in windy weather.
»» Check all safety equipment especially gloves to
ensure there will be no leakage. Gloves made of
absorbent material, including leather, should not
be used if handling chemicals.
»» Avoid contact with eyes, skin and respiratory
system.
»» If poisoning occurs seek medical help.
»» Avoid working in poorly ventilated areas.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
»» Wash thoroughly before eating and drinking.
»» Wash safety clothing and other contaminated
clothing after use.
»» After applying herbicides, it is important to wash
hands and any other skin that may have come into
contact with the chemical.
Cut and paint/cut and paste
Other precautions
For this method you need something to make the cut
(secateurs, a hand saw or long handled pruners) and
an applicator, which can be a shoe polish container
with a foam applicator pad or a hand spray bottle. Cut
the plant as near to the base as possible and apply the
herbicide. This should be applied to the cut surface
within 10 seconds of cutting or it will not work.
The following precautions also apply when using any
herbicide:
Apply the herbicide around the perimeter – this is
where the living cambium layer is.
»» It is recommended that dyes be used with
herbicides. This serves to mark which plants have
been treated, to monitor any non-target damage,
and to identify spillage. Specific herbicide marker
dyes are available at hardware stores.
»» Thoroughly wash equipment after use and before
using another herbicide.
»» Store equipment in a safe place away from
foodstuffs, seeds, fertilisers or other chemicals.
»» Store herbicides in the original container: never
decant into other bottles or use unlabelled
containers. Do not re-use the container for other
purposes. Dispose of containers appropriately,
and according to label instructions.
Keep the applicator pads as clean as possible
to maximise the efficacy of the treatment. Some
herbicide labels that recommend the cut and paint
method also recommend treatment of the bark below
the cut.
Remember to keep records of your
herbicide applications to allow for
monitoring and adaptive management.
16.8 Herbicide
control methods
Be sure to label the applicator bottle.
After use, empty the container, thoroughly clean it and
store it safely.
Unused herbicide should be discarded as per the
instructions on the label or taken to the chemical
disposal section of your refuse centre.
Drill and fill/frill and fill
Drilling and filling involves drilling holes around the
trunk of a tree, usually at about 150 mm spacing, and
filling the holes with herbicide.
Frilling is similar but is done with a tomahawk or a
chisel, and hammer, and the spacing is much closer.
The chisel is held at a slight angle to the trunk, hit
with a hammer and the herbicide applied into the cut
hole. The aim is not to drill or chisel too deeply but to
target the layer just under the bark (sapwood) that
transports the chemical throughout the plant. It is
important not to ringbark the tree when frilling as this
will reduce the translocation of the herbicide.
‘Cut and paint’ or ‘drill and fill’ are popular techniques
because they tend to kill only the targeted plant, and
use small amounts of herbicide. The herbicide must
be applied to the sapwood (cambium layer), which is
the living part of the plant. It must be applied when
the plant is actively growing, usually from spring
through summer. Do not apply when rain is forecast,
as the chemical may run onto other plants.
Take particular care. The herbicides for these
techniques are used at higher concentrations, often
undiluted. Use protective gear such as gloves and
protective eyewear.
Part C: How to do it C47
A single technique might work for
a single weed species in a small area.
However a combination of techniques
is usually most effective, particularly in
controlling larger weed infestations. Using
hand weeding along with small amounts
of herbicide (by the cut and paste
method) and, in some instances, a spray
contractor for large infestations can be
very effective.
The Bradley method is best
Developed in the 1960s by Joan and
Eileen Bradley
The best and cheapest weed
management strategy is usually the
Bradley method. This method of gradual
removal takes some years but is very
effective. It greatly reduces the effort of
follow-up because the regeneration of
native species is more successful.
The method has three basic principles.
Spot spraying
Spot spraying with a 1–2 litre spray bottle can control
regrowth of weeds. The spray jet can be altered to
either a wide or narrow jet, making the application of
the herbicide very target-specific.
Never use this technique in windy conditions and only
use low to the ground, to minimise any spray drift
on to yourself and non-target plants. Even on a calm
day spray drift can result in some non-target losses.
In addition, a residual compound can remain active
in sandy soils and result in some off-target damage
where leaching occurs.
For spot spraying you must wear extra protective
clothing. In addition to gloves and waterproof shoes
wear waterproof overalls (not just water-resistant), a
hood and a face mask.
Mixing or diluting herbicides
Mixing or diluting herbicides should only be
undertaken by an experienced person. Wear PVC or
nitrile gloves, protective eyewear and take a great deal
of care.
Syringes (without needles) are very useful for
measuring herbicides – use a different syringe
for each product you are using. If you are using a
herbicide, a dye, and a penetrant you need three
syringes. Use clean syringes each time you mix up.
Place the used syringes in a bucket, and clean them
at the end of the day, along with the cut and paint
applicators. 20 mm syringes are ideal and available at
a chemist.
C48
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
1. Work from the best areas of native
plants towards weed-infested areas.
Start with the areas with the least
weeds. This gives the indigenous species
the upper hand because their seeds are
already in the ground.
2. Minimise the amount of soil
disturbance to reduce the potential
for a fresh weed invasion.
Weeding will invariably cause some
disturbance to the existing soil structure
and layers. Return the disturbed soil as
close as possible to its original position
and firm it down gently. This includes
the mulch, which is the first line of
defence against a fresh invasion.
3. Let native plant regeneration
dictate the rate of weed removal.
Don’t weed the worst areas immediately
after less infested areas have been
weeded. It is often better to simply wait
for the less infested areas to regenerate
before proceeding slowly into the worst
areas. Over-clearing an area faster than
the native plants can re-colonise just
guarantees a lot more weeding.
PART C How to do it
Weed control methods and timing for the southern temperate zone
Woody
weeds
Shrubs
Herbaceous
plants
Grasses
Mulch/
smother
All year
All year
All year
Solarisation*
Spring &
summer
Spring &
summer
Spring &
summer
Before seed
set
Before seed
set
Pull
Before seed
set
Before seed
set
Cut & paint
Spring
Spring
Inject
Before seed
set
Bulbs,
tubers &
rhizomes
Before seed
set
Spring &
summer
Spring
Foliar spray
Vines &
scramblers
Spring
Wipe
Spring &
summer
Spring &
summer
Spring &
summer
Spring
Spring
Before
flowering
Table 17.1: Weed control methods and timing for the southern temperate zone. *Solarisation is the laying of black plastic over the soil. The
heat generated by the sun on the plastic kills many weed seeds and soil diseases.
16.9 Timing and follow-up
Timing of weeding is important – it must be done
before they produce seed. Otherwise, weeding can
disperse the seed and set off a new invasion. Many
plants release seeds during flowering or soon after
flowering finishes, but some, such as coast tea-tree,
retain their seed and removal at any time can cause
seed dispersal.
Knowing how different weeds reproduce is helpful
for planning control. For instance it can tell you how
long seed may be stored in the soil or the best time
to expect the majority of seedlings to emerge.
Plants with a long seed-maturing period offer a
longer window of opportunity for physical removal.
Most weeds are flowering by September and set
their seed soon after. As a general rule, pulling weeds
out in September–October is the safest option (avoid
shorebird nesting beaches) but there are exceptions,
such as Spanish heath, which is best done earlier
(June–July).
Note that flowering times vary from season to season,
and often by a matter of months, not just weeks.
Flowering times also vary considerably along the
coast. For example, some plants flower almost yearround in the milder conditions on the east coast.
Check the growth and flowering times of individual
species to ensure weeds are targeted at the optimum
times.
It certainly pays to get to know your weeds and to keep
an eye on them, especially from late winter onwards.
Disclaimer of Liability
The previous section has been prepared to provide general information about using herbicides safely in bushland
situations. While the information has been provided to the best of our ability, the author and publisher excludes all
liability to any person for any consequences, including but not limited to all losses, damages, costs, expenses and any
other compensation, arising directly or indirectly from using information or material (in part or in whole) contained in
this handbook. This publication is for guidance only and those reading it are advised to verify all information and to
obtain and comply with any appropriate professional or industrial advice and/or manufacturer’s instructions.
Part C: How to do it C49
Whatever method of weeding you use,
make sure everyone is wearing gloves
and you have a suitable first aid kit. Some
plants can cut your hands and broken
glass, syringes and other hazards may be
present. A variety of plants – cotoneaster,
for example – can cause allergic reactions
including hay fever, asthma and skin
rashes in susceptible people.
Shorebirds typically nest between
1 October and 31 March and will be
disturbed by activities on beaches and
dunes. Penguin and shearwater colonies
should be avoided during breeding and
moulting times. Shearwater colonies are
active between September and March, and
some penguin colonies can have breeding
penguins at any time of the year – check
with local PWS staff and BirdLife Tasmania
for additional information and local issues.
Best times for hand-removal of some
common coastal weeds:
There are optimal times for hand removal of some
common coastal weeds. However, when planning
the timing of weed-removal activities, it is important
to consider other environmental, cultural and
recreational values.
It is important to keep a constant eye out for new weed
invasions and to patrol the whole area at least once a
year.
Climate change and weeds in Tasmania
Climate change may result in unexpected or complex
changes to weeds and infestations in the future. Existing
weeds may spread to new areas, new weeds may
emerge and some vegetation communities may become
less resilient to weeds and diseases.
It is more important than ever to maintain healthy
ecosystems and foster resilience in our natural habitats.
Working from least infested areas to most infested areas
and addressing the most potentially damaging invasive
species will continue to be the best weed management
approach. Look out for new information and guidelines
as they become available to address climate change
effects on weed management.
Early spring
Boneseed, boxthorn, brooms, Cape Leeuwin wattle,
Spanish heath, sweet pittosporum (but watch for
attached fruit), tree lucerne
Identifying new weeds incursions will
become critical in a changing climate.
Seek expert advice about any plants
that you cannot identify.
Spring
Coprosma, rice grass, sea spurge. Note: This is
shorebird breeding season.
Autumn
Sea spurge, boneseed
Follow-up work is essential
If you do not do follow-up weeding to finish off
the plants you missed or those that germinated
afterwards, you will have wasted your time. Any weed
infestation requires a long-term commitment and
consistent effort if it is to be controlled effectively.
C50
Sharing stories
Southern Beaches Landcare/Coastcare find the
Bradley method works well. They have learnt
from experience that large-scale removal of some
species by contractors doesn’t work if the local
group can’t manage to control the huge numbers of
seedlings that come up over the next few years.
Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it
Never remove weeds when ripe seed
is on them unless you take exceptional
precautions, such as placing them in bags
as you go. One seed-laden weed carried
even a small distance to a weed pile or bin
will negate all the hard work done.
Avoid slashing in weed infected areas when seed heads
are mature, to reduce the risk of spreading the weed
on-site and collecting seeds on machinery that could be
transported to new sites.
Sea spurge produces a toxic sap
that is irritating to the skin and can be
particularly painful if it gets into the
eyes. Sea spurge sap has caused painful
eye damage sufficient to hospitalise
experienced Coastcarers who were
wearing gloves and full protective gear
but brushed the hair out of their eyes
with sap on their gloves.
16.10 Avoid spreading weeds
It would be a shame to remove one weed infestation
from your site only to introduce another on your tools
or equipment, or worse a soil borne disease. Good
weed and disease hygiene is critical in coastal areas
to avoid introducing weeds and diseases in imported
materials and spreading weeds or diseases from an
infested area to an uninfested area on vehicles, tools,
other equipment and clothing.
Mulches are often used to prevent the spread of
weeds onto bare patches of soil. It is important to
ensure that imported landscape materials such as
mulches are free of weeds and diseases – ask for a
statement from the vendor. Mulches tend to be made
from a variety of products with varying origins and
may contain weed propagules (e.g. seeds or root
fragments). Use mulches made from single products
(e.g. gum bark) or which are heat treated in some way
(avoid materials treated with chemicals or irradiation,
which may harm the natural vegetation).
Wash down all tools, machinery and personal
equipment when moving between sites. This is
particularly important when a site is known to be either
infested or free of weeds and disease. Although washdown procedures take time, they will greatly reduce
future weed and disease management needs.
Washdown standards are detailed in the Tasmanian
washdown guidelines for weed and disease control.
Personal equipment and small tools
Portable wash baths are recommended for washing
footwear and small tools.
Washbaths can be made from a plastic tub fitted with
an open weave plastic doormat, a scrubbing brush, a
pair of safety gloves, glasses, detergent or fungicide,
and a container of clean water. For backpacking, a 2L
bottle, scrubbing brush, safety gloves and glasses can
be used for washing small tools and boots.
A biocide such as F10SC or Phytoclean™ should be
added to washbaths to control the spread of pathogens
and disease if required.
Ask your volunteers to clean their
boots and tools before the working
bee to ensure they do not bring weeds
or disease from home or their last
bushwalking trip.
Phytophthora Root rot
Phytophthora root rot (Phytophthora cinnamomi) is
a microscopic pathogen (disease-causing organism).
P. cinnamomi (root rot or die-back) is listed as a
Part C: How to do it C51
16.11 Telling your community
Let your coastal bushland neighbours know about the
impact of weeds on our coastal areas and that they
can help stop the spread of weeds and prevent their
backyards from ‘creeping’ onto coastal reserves and
foreshores. You can help educate your community
about the threat of weeds escaping from their gardens
by using the many weed brochures and posters that
are available.
Encourage property owners to dispose of garden
waste responsibly by composting or mulching (some
councils collect green waste from homes).
Cleaning boots and equipment is essential if there is a risk of
Phytopthora or other diseases.
Encourage your coastal neighbours to create waterwise native gardens using local species. There are a
number of resources about replacing weeds in the
garden with native plants and how to landscape with
native plants.
Phytophthora cinnamomi can be
spread by moving soil including minute
quantities of soil on tools, boots and
vehicles.
key threatening process in the Commonwealth’s
Environment Protection and Biodiversity
Conservation Act 1999. A national P. cinnamomi
threat abatement plan has been prepared and is
supported by national guidelines.
Signs of phytophthora infection include patches
of dead or dying peas and heaths, often extending
down slopes and showing older areas of mortality
towards the centre. Sedges and grasses remain
unaffected.
An example of the weed brochures currently available to help you
inform your local community. Check with your NRM facilitator
about the latest information brochures.
Vulnerable vegetation types include coastal
heathlands, heathy eucalypt woodlands and
buttongrass moorland. Phytophthora root rot is
unlikely to be an issue in wetland or beach foreshore
vegetation.
The best way to prevent the spread of phytophthora
is to clean all tools and machinery before entering
and leaving work sites.
If you suspect one of your work sites may be infected
with phytophthora you will need to take extra
precautions. Please consult with experts at DPIPWE
for advice.
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Coastcare Handbook of Tasmania : Communities caring for the coast
PART C How to do it