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How to Care for Fancy Rats
Mallory Schier
Table of Contents
iii
Table of Contents
Table of Contents....................................................................................................................................... iii
Introduction to Rat Ownership ................................................................................................................ v
Quick facts about rats ............................................................................................................................ v
Overview of care, cost .......................................................................................................................... vi
Domestic rat history .............................................................................................................................. vi
Chapter 1: Choosing Rats ...........................................................................................................................3
Keep rats in pairs.....................................................................................................................................3
Males versus females ..............................................................................................................................3
What to look for in new rats ..................................................................................................................4
Feeder rats versus pet rats .................................................................................................................4
Places to purchase or adopt your rats ..................................................................................................5
Avoid pet stores...................................................................................................................................5
Professional rat breeders ....................................................................................................................6
Craigslist, other “listing” style websites ..........................................................................................6
Pet rescues, shelters, and rat clubs....................................................................................................7
Acclimating new rats ..............................................................................................................................7
Things to keep in mind when introducing a new rat ....................................................................8
Process of introducing new rats ........................................................................................................8
Chapter 2: Housing ...................................................................................................................................11
Cage sizing .............................................................................................................................................11
Types of cages ........................................................................................................................................11
Wire cages ..........................................................................................................................................11
Glass or terrarium style cages .........................................................................................................12
Bedding types ........................................................................................................................................12
Aspen or paper bedding ..................................................................................................................12
Cedar and pine bedding...................................................................................................................12
Cage accessories ....................................................................................................................................12
Water bottles versus dishes .............................................................................................................12
Food dishes ........................................................................................................................................12
Toys, chews, and other entertainment ...............................................................................................13
Exercise wheels ..................................................................................................................................13
Chapter 3: Diet ...........................................................................................................................................17
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How to Care for Fancy Rats
Staple foods ............................................................................................................................................17
Typical rat diet ...................................................................................................................................17
Store bought food ..............................................................................................................................17
Homemade food items .....................................................................................................................18
Forbidden foods for rats ...................................................................................................................18
Water access ...........................................................................................................................................18
Treats .......................................................................................................................................................19
Chapter 4: Behavior ..................................................................................................................................23
Typical rat behavior ..............................................................................................................................23
Social hierarchy .................................................................................................................................23
Overt rat aggression..........................................................................................................................23
Gaining your rats’ trust ........................................................................................................................23
Confident rats versus skittish rats ..................................................................................................23
Adjustment time for new rats..........................................................................................................24
Having your rats associate you with treats ...................................................................................24
Holding your rats ..............................................................................................................................24
Your rats’ daily needs ...........................................................................................................................25
Play areas ............................................................................................................................................25
Rat proofing an area..........................................................................................................................25
Keeping your rats safe and comfortable .......................................................................................25
Training rats to do tricks ......................................................................................................................26
Example of how to teach a trick to your rat ..................................................................................26
Your rats’ personalities affect what tricks they can learn ...........................................................26
Help your rat avoid distractions .....................................................................................................26
Positive reinforcement ......................................................................................................................26
Chapter 5: Maintenance ...........................................................................................................................29
Cleaning cages .......................................................................................................................................29
Litter training for rats .......................................................................................................................29
Vet care ...................................................................................................................................................29
Conclusion ..................................................................................................................................................31
Glossary ......................................................................................................................................................33
Bibliography...............................................................................................................................................35
Index............................................................................................................................................................37
Introduction
v
Introduction to Rat Ownership
This care guide contains information for all new owners of rats by describing the needs
of rats and how those needs can be met efficiently. There are sections which cover rat
biology and their behaviors, resources for rats, and where to acquire rats.
Quick facts about rats
Rats have some characteristics that set them apart from other rodents:
•
•
•
•
Rats live for 2-3 years
Their bodies are about 9-11 inches and their tails add another 7-9 inches
In most cases, males are larger than females.
Pet rats are sometimes called Fancy Rats or Norway Rats, which came about due
to selective breeding of Rattus norvegicus – they are not the same as their wild
counterparts!
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How to Care for Fancy Rats
Overview of care, cost
Rats are intelligent, social animals that
make wonderful pets. They are easily
tamed because they are very motivated
by treats. Although they are relatively
simple to take care of, they should not
be considered as low maintenance pets
because they crave their owners'
attention, need weekly cage cleaning,
and need at least an hour per day of
exercise time not in their cages.
It is also important to note that rats as
pets should never be kept alone. Rats are extremely social animals, so one of their basic
requirements is to have a fellow rat as a companion in their cage.
Additionally, rats are very curious and require mental stimulation. Therefore, it is
important to keep interesting toys in their cage and to rotate the toys frequently so they
do not become bored.
For a new rat owner, keeping a rat as a companion can be compared to a dog, though
they require less overall space.
Domestic rat history
Rats in human care have come a long way
since conception! In the 18th and 19th
centuries, rats were taken from the wild and
used in a blood sport called rat-baiting.
Once rat catchers trapped enough rats, they
were put in a pit with rat terrier dogs.
Viewers would take bets on how long it
would take the dog to kill all the rats.
Fortunately for the rats, rat catchers
eventually discovered that some rats had
fancier colors, and so these lucky ones were
tamed and later sold as pets.
Chapter 1: Choosing Rats
Chapter 1
3
Chapter 1: Choosing Rats
Keep rats in pairs
Pet rats should never be kept
by themselves. Research has
shown that rats kept alone
exhibit neurotic tendencies
and behavioral problems,
such as aggression,
possessiveness, weight gain,
and introversion. Since rats
are social animals, when
they live alone they are
easily stressed and have weaker immune systems.
Ultimately, leaving a rat alone in a cage is extremely unnatural for it. No amount of
human interaction can replace what rats get from living with another rat. Rats kept
together stimulate each other, communicate at higher frequencies than humans can
perceive, snuggle, and groom each other constantly.
Keeping rats of the same gender is the easiest way to satisfy a rat's need for company.
An alternate sex pair is viable as long as one is neutered/spayed. If left intact, females
will go into heat every 4 days and can have around 20 babies in a litter!
Another important note is that rats' ability to be tamed is not affected by keeping the
rats in a group. The idea that a rat kept alone will prevent it from bonding with its
owner is a myth. If anything, rats become more easily tamed and exhibit more
confidence when they have the comfort of other rats in their cage.
Males versus females
Both genders of rats make great pets, but there are some
major personality differences between the two. Both
genders will crave your attention and can be trained to
do awesome tricks!
Male rats are larger than females, and are overall less
active. They also tend to sleep a lot, and therefore make
great pets for those who want a snuggly companion.
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How to Care for Fancy Rats
Their coats are less soft than a female rat's fur, and they tend to be more territorial
towards other males. If a male rat is exhibiting aggression, neutering him will quickly
resolve it.
Although unneutered males tend to be territorial at an older age, they can easily get
along with each other if they are introduced at a young age or are from the same litter.
Female rats are much more active as a general rule. Their instincts lead them to build
nests and explore their environment. They have softer fur and can be taught to run on a
wheel. They greatly rely on various toys for stimulation, both in the cage and outside it.
Although they never stay still in your hands, they are fun to watch!
What to look for in new rats
Finding your perfect pets may take some effort and research, but the results will be
worthwhile. Since rat ownership is oftentimes not under as much scrutiny as cats or
dogs, it is very important to research every option thoroughly before choosing.
Feeder rats versus pet rats
There are important distinctions between pet rats and feeder rats.
Chapter 1
5
Feeder rats
Feeder rats are intended to serve as food for exotic
reptiles like snakes. Feeder rats are generally not
bred to improve the qualities of health,
conformation, and tameness. Instead, breeders and
companies who produce feeder rats generally only
want their rats to produce a large quantity of babies
in order to meet the public’s demand for rats as
food.
Although feeder rats can also be bred ethically, they still are not bred with the intention
to serve as pets. Since they are not bred with health and tameness in mind, they will
often be extremely fearful of human contact and have genetic and respiratory health
issues. They are raised in high numbers in small stacked bins, on cheap pine bedding.
They are bred continuously and do not need to have a long lifespan.
Pet rats
Ethically bred pet rats are results of planned breeding in order to improve the qualities
of health, conformation, and tameness. Each generation of rat is intended to be an
improvement over the previous generation. Ethically bred pet rats have been bred
selectively, carefully, and over lots of generations in order to have fewer health issues
and longer lifespans.
These ethical breeders are not the same as “backyard breeders” of rats. “Backyard
breeders” often have bred rats just to have rats, or because they thought their rat was
cute, or because they wanted to have a certain color of rat, or they had an accidental
litter.
See Ethical breeders are difficult to find for more information on ethical rat breeders
and what to look for in a good breeder.
Places to purchase or adopt your rats
Avoid pet stores
Avoid purchasing pet rats from any pet store, whether local or franchise. These rats
are most often kept in deplorable conditions with cheap bedding and overcrowding for
most of their lives. They almost always have respiratory illnesses, and are afraid of
human contact. They are mass produced with the intent to meet demands for exotic
reptile food. Buying from pet stores only enables these stores to continue their unsafe
breeding practices.
Additionally, at a pet store, there is not much difference (other than color and cost)
between rats labeled as "feeder" and those labeled "fancy". Most rats at a pet store will
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How to Care for Fancy Rats
not be very healthy, as they are mill bred. Most rats at pet stores have murine
mycoplasmosis (a respiratory disease) and many have SDA (rat corona virus, a highly
contagious virus that weakens rats’ immune systems).
Professional rat breeders
It is difficult to acquire rats from an
ethical breeder because few fanciers breed
domestic rats ethically. Since there are so
many important factors involved in
knowing if someone is breeding rats
responsibly, research thoroughly before
purchasing from a breeder. Rats obtained
from reputable breeders have great health
and temperament, so it can sometimes be worth the wait.
Ethical breeders are difficult to find
Here are some important considerations concerning buying rats from breeders.
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Avoid breeders who list their rats on sites like craigslist, who do not provide
breeding goals, and who have more than one or two fancy colors in their
program.
o If a breeder only wants to breed multiple fancy colors, their babies can
often have fatal, genetic health issues. For instance, megacolon is a fatal
genetic disease. It most often occurs in these coat colors: BEW (black-eyed
white), husky, blazed, split-capped, tri-colored, odd-eyed, and other “high
white” lines of rats.
Ethical breeders are involved in the rat community and usually already have
homes for their baby rats lined up before the babies are born.
Ethical breeders wait to breed a rat for at least a year to ensure quality health,
and have space and resources to care for every baby rat produced.
An ethical breeder’s goals should be listed out and include information about
standards for health, temperament, and conformation. Color goals should be the
least important factor.
Craigslist, other “listing” style websites
Craigslist and other websites where people are selling rats without applications are
most often not good options. These people are often overbreeding feeder rats, or are
irresponsible “backyard breeders”.
If anyone is resorting to using sites like Craigslist and Facebook to sell babies, it also
oftentimes means that they had too many babies to find buyers and the influx of rats in
their care are not being treated ethically. Buying rats from these people will only enable
them to continue their unsafe practices.
Chapter 1
7
Pet rescues, shelters, and rat clubs
One of the best options for finding pet rats is at a pet rescue. Rat rescues, shelters, and
clubs can be found all over the world. Research online, especially on Facebook and
other reputable forums with a longstanding rat community, to find a rat rescue.
Rats left with rescues are often tamed pets who were surrendered by their owners, and
therefore are often hand tame and friendly. Additionally, because they are often a bit
older, choosing rats from a rescue gives you a chance to determine their developed
personality and choose a rat that fits best with you.
Unfortunately, since rats at rescue organizations can come from any origin, your
rescued rats may have health
problems. Set aside a separate fund
for the vet to mitigate this problem.
Not all veterinarian companies are
equipped to treat rats, either.
Acclimating new rats
You can refer to this section if, at
the start of your ownership, your two rats are exhibiting signs of extreme aggression.
Chapter 4 covers basic behavior so that you will be able to know the difference between
pecking order fights and actual aggression.
This section is intended for owners who want to acclimate a new rat with an established
group of rats, or to integrate two or more rats who are unfamiliar with each other into a
new environment.
If your two rats grew up with each other, they should be fine in the same cage at the
start (and being with a familiar rat will help them to adjust to being in a new cage.)
If your rat has been alone for a long time, it may have developed neurotic behaviors –
don’t give up on trying to socialize it! It may take more time than normal for it to accept
a newcomer, but the end result will be that your rat will be much happier and
comfortable with another rat friend.
In general, with time and patience, all rats can learn to accept the presence of a new rat.
The easiest pairing of unfamiliar rats would be two young rats or two older, mellow
rats, while the most difficult to pair would be two unneutered males who are unfamiliar
with each other.
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How to Care for Fancy Rats
Things to keep in mind when introducing a new rat
1. Keep the new rat in a second cage (travel cage is fine).
2. Only advance to the next step of the process, if, after 30 minutes, the rats show
no signs of aggression. If the rats show aggression, immediately remove the new
rat from the environment, return to the previous step, and wait for 24 hours
before progressing.
3. The resident rat is showing aggression if his fur puffs out, he launches himself
sideways at the new rat, and he arches his back.
4. Usually only the dominant rat will show extreme aggression, as it is defending
its territory from the newcomer.
Process of introducing new rats
Here is the process of introducing two new rats together.
1. Place the cages near enough to each other so that the rats can smell each other,
but not so close that toes and tails can be grabbed or bitten.
2. Switch the rats so that the new rat is in the resident rat’s cage, and the resident
rat is in the newcomer’s cage. This will give them the opportunity to learn each
other’s scents and become familiar with them up close. This may need to be done
repeatedly over several days.
3. Introduce the rats to each other in a neutral area (not a play area and not near
their cages). A bathtub is usually a good option, or on your lap. Watch closely for
fights breaking out, and if one does, stop the interaction immediately by
removing the new rat and waiting for 24 hours before doing this step again. This
step may need to be done repeatedly over several days.
4. Clean out the resident rat’s cage completely, remove or rearrange all toys and
furnishings, and ensure that the cage smells and feels like a different or new
home for both rats. Clip the toenails of both rats to minimize scratches if they
fight. Dab a small bead of vanilla extract on the back of their necks so that they
both have a similar smell. Since rats tend to be sleepier in the morning, that’s the
best time to put them in the cleaned out cage together.
Chapter 2: Housing
Chapter 2
11
Chapter 2: Housing
Cage sizing
It is important that your rats have plenty of
space! What pet stores advertise as proper
cages for rats is usually half of the size that
even a single rat would actually need.
Your cage needs to have approximately 2 cubic
feet of space per rat. This is referring to overall
dimensions, as each cage would need the space
to include shelving, hammocks, and other toys.
Your rats’ cage should be a comfortable home
for your rats… not the bare minimum needed
for their survival. Rats living in a large
environment with lots of enrichment and
comfort will ultimately become friendlier and
smarter pets!
Types of cages
Wire cages
Since rats are extremely susceptible to respiratory diseases, wire cages are the most
appropriate type of cage for rats. It allows for constant air flow, which is important to
consider because ammonia and dust from the bedding will build up and cause illness in
your rats.
A common myth about using wire-bottom cages is that they cause a condition called
Bumblefoot, a bacterial infection and inflammatory reaction on the feet. This is easily
avoided if the cage is properly maintained, and certain portions of the cage flooring are
covered. It also helps to use litter boxes to prevent continued walking on either rough
or soiled litter.
The floors of the cage should be no larger than .5” to prevent leg and tail injuries.
The wire of the cage should be powder coated, rather than galvanized steel. When
galvanized metal is soaked with urine, the resulting stench can be overpowering.
Another plus for wire cages is that rats greatly enjoy climbing!
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How to Care for Fancy Rats
Glass or terrarium style cages
Glass terrariums and other “container” style cages are ultimately not a healthy choice
for your rats. They block air flow and trap in ammonia and bedding dust, causing
respiratory infections in your rats.
Bedding types
Aspen or paper bedding
Aspen or paper bedding are great choices as they allow for airflow and absorb odors
well.
Cedar and pine bedding
Pine, cedar, and other cheap bedding are not healthy options for your rats as the oils
and dust are notorious for causing respiratory illness.
Cedar and pine are exceptionally bad choices, as the phenols (aromatic hydrocarbons)
that are found in these softwoods are known to cause liver problems. Additionally, the
strong buildup of ammonia in combination with the phenols irritates the respiratory
tract, and the long term inhalation of these chemicals will lower the immune system of
rats.
Cage accessories
Water bottles versus dishes
Water bottles are effective in keeping the cage free of
spilled water and keeps the water free from
contamination. Water dishes are not as practical for
rats because they are often turned over, spoiling the
litter and water.
Food dishes
Beware of food dishes that lay on the ground, since
they are easily soiled from rats urinating on it.
Clip on food bowls that attach to the side of the cage
are easily maintained, easy to dispense food into, and
easily kept free of urine.
Chapter 2
13
Toys, chews, and other
entertainment
Toys marketed for parrots and ferrets
are often good options for your rats’
mental stimulation while in the cage.
Toys can also easily be made from
household materials like cardboard
boxes, toilet paper rolls, large PVC
pipes, and leftover food containers.
Anything that can hide treats for the
rats to find makes for a good toy. Rats
also greatly enjoy shredding paper to use as bedding for their nests in hammocks and
stashes.
They like to destroy things like tissue paper, but be aware that they may try to ingest
items with food particles on it. Rats also like dig boxes with treats hiding underneath
the dirt, but it can be a messy activity.
Hammocks are
another favorite, but
they can get smelly if
not washed frequently.
Fleece material
hammocks absorb
odors the best.
Exercise wheels
Wheels can be a decent
stimulating toy, but it
must be big enough for
the rats to run on that
their bodies do not twist unnaturally while on it. Plastic wheels with no separated bars
are best since rats on separated bars can easily injure their feet and tail while running.
Usually only female rats can use wheels due to their tendency to want to spend energy,
but they have to be trained to use it. Giving them a treat when they run on a wheel
gives them a positive association with the wheel. After repeated association, they will
use the exercise wheel on their own.
Males can be trained to use the wheel but most likely will not use it without a treat
reward involved.
Chapter 3: Diet
Chapter 3
17
Chapter 3: Diet
Staple foods
Typical rat diet
In the wild, rats are omnivores and opportunists.
Therefore, most foods that we eat are also safe for rats
in moderation, minus some important exceptions (see
Forbidden foods for rats).
What kinds of diets are best for rats?
In order to determine that, you should consider cost,
the time it takes to prepare the food, and overall
healthfulness for the rats.
Good nutrition comes from a good diet and keeps a rat
healthy. Any diet you choose to give to your rat should
include essential nutrients, vitamins, and minerals, and
be supplemented with various fruits, nuts, and
vegetables.
Store bought food
Store bought seed mixes are generally not appropriate
in nutrition and rats will not eat the majority of it, so it
goes to waste. Seed mixes are also unhealthy especially
because they often contain excess sunflower seeds
(which are not healthy in large quantities) and too much corn or seed content. Since the
rats will only pick out certain items of the food, it leaves them undernourished and
wastes a lot of food and money.
There are a few other convenient options that are safe and healthy for rats.
The main store-bought option for rat food is called lab
blocks, though these most likely will need to be
purchased through an online retailer. Native Earth
(formerly called Harlan Teklad), Mazuri, and Oxbow
are all companies which make good quality lab blocks.
These blocks come with balanced and full nutrition,
and are used for laboratory research rats. However, rats
can become bored of eating blocks alone and therefore
need supplements of fruits and vegetables, nuts, and
table scraps.
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How to Care for Fancy Rats
Homemade food items
There are some diets you can
research online that are completely
homemade. However, these diets
make it difficult to determine
whether or not your rats are getting
full nutrition. It may be a good idea
to partially include lab blocks in
this diet just to be safe.
Again, you should supplement a
homemade diet with fruits,
vegetables, nuts, and table scraps.
Watch out for foods with excess sugar and salt.
Forbidden foods for rats
Raw dry beans and peanuts have antinutrients which can cause clumped red blood
cells as well as cause problems with digesting protein and starches, since the
antinutrients destroy enzymes and vitamin A.
Raw sweet potato can cause the formation of cyanide in the stomach.
Green bananas are known to cause problems with digesting starches by inhibiting
important enzymes. Green potato skin and eyes have a toxin known as solanine that is
harmful to rats.
Water access
Rats need access to water at all times,
so check the water bottle daily for
leakage and to be sure that the bead is
not stuck.
Chapter 3
Treats
Most food items we enjoy,
rats will also enjoy. In
most cases, a rat treat can
be what humans eat, just
shrink the portion size.
Since we have such similar
digestion systems, it is
actually a big factor in
why rats are used in
scientific research.
However, make sure your
treats do not have more
than a pinch of added salt
or sugar.
Rats are known to adore low sugar dark chocolate, yogurt, fruits, vegetables, and
grains.
For long term chewing treats, healthy options are the occasional chicken or beef bones
(cooked or boiled), and chew biscuits or small dog milk bones.
19
Chapter 4: Behavior
Chapter 4
23
Chapter 4: Behavior
Typical rat behavior
Rats are social animals and crave the company of other rats, as well as you! They enjoy
grooming one another, sleeping on top of each other, wrestling, communicating, and
playing with each other.
Social hierarchy
Rats have a social hierarchy,
like dogs, so they frequently
play fight to determine rank.
Play fighting can include
things like chasing each
other around, jumping,
grabbing each other’s necks,
and standing up on their
hind legs to box each other.
Overt rat aggression
Although play fighting is a
common social activity, rats
can also exhibit aggressive
behaviors. These are separate
from play fighting, and
usually occur in encounters
between a new rat and an established rat colony. Aggressive behaviors are a bit more
common in unneutered male rats since they are much more territorial. Rats defending
their territory show aggression by hissing, squealing, launching themselves sideways at
the shoulder, fluffing up their fur, and whipping their tails.
See Process of introducing new rats to get more information on introducing a new rat
to the colony.
Gaining your rats’ trust
Confident rats versus skittish rats
A comfortable rat is relaxed, does not freeze at sudden movements, is eager to find
treats and explore, and does not mind being held. A skittish rat hides, takes food and
hides, and panics at loud noises and sudden movements.
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How to Care for Fancy Rats
In order to have a good relationship with your rats, you need to gain their trust so that
both you and your rats are comfortable when interacting. This is especially important
for new rats.
Adjustment time for new rats
Skittish rats need a bit of time to become acquainted to their new cage and
surroundings. Talk soothingly to your rats whenever your approach their cage.
Having your rats associate you with treats
After a day or two, you can approach your rats with gifts of treats. The best way to give
skittish rats a treat is to put soft food on a spoon so that your rats can’t take the food
away and hide. If they are forced to eat the food you give them out in the open, they
will eventually realize that you are not dangerous.
You will know when your rats associate you with treats, because they will leap onto the
cage bars and become excited when you approach their cage. At this point you are
positively associated in their minds.
Now that your rats recognize you as the bearer of treats, you can try laying your arm
inside of the cage. Rats are naturally curious and since they are safe in their cage, they
will eventually explore your arm. By leaving your arm in the cage without doing
anything to them, you show them that your arm is safe.
Holding your rats
If you are successful at having your rats explore
your arm over a few days, you can then try to
gently pick them up. Grab lightly with both hands
at the sides of their bodies, and support their hind
legs. Watch your rat carefully, and if it whips its
tail around, your rat is afraid and is trying to
regain its balance. If your rat shows continued
discomfort, put it back in the cage and try again
some other time. Continue bolstering your rats’
association of you as the bearer of treats.
After your rats trust you enough to be held, you can put them on your shoulder or take
them to a bathroom and hold them on your lap. Offer them treats during this time. If
you have established their trust enough that they are confident and comfortable around
you, then you can play with them more actively and even try training them to do tricks.
Chapter 4
25
Your rats’ daily needs
Rats need and enjoy daily time out of the cage
to be happy. They look forward to spending
time with you outside of their cage.
Rats need a minimum of about 30 minutes to
an hour of time outside of their cage every
day.
Play areas
Some owners dedicate a room or a bathroom
as a play area for their rats; others have a separate play pen.
Both play area options are equally valid, as long as they can be safely secured and rat
proofed.
Rat proofing an area
Because rats like to chew and explore every nook and cranny, you will need to prepare
the play area beforehand by rat proofing it. Cover or remove exposed wires and block
off areas behind and under couches or other furniture. Make sure that any other pets
who can hurt or scare your rats are secured elsewhere during play time.
In these play areas, include items for the rats to explore, such as PVC pipes, cardboard
boxes, ropes, things to chew, treats, etc.
Keeping your rats safe and comfortable
When rats are placed outside of its cage, they
most likely will be nervous and want to
explore every area possible. Be careful and
move slowly so that you will not scare your
rats, and definitely do not involve your rats
in any activities that may frighten them.
If you lose your rats’ trust, they can
sometimes bite if they are exceptionally
scared. A comfortable rat hops with ease on the ground, and does not twitch or freeze at
sudden movements. See Gaining your rats’ trust for more information on developing a
positive relationship with your rat.
Over time your rats will become more confident and eagerly look forward to spending
time with you in play areas.
26
How to Care for Fancy Rats
Training rats to do tricks
Since rats are extremely intelligent, it is
both easy and fun to train your rats.
Positive reinforcement makes rats eager
to learn and stimulates their natural
intelligence. You can use verbal praise
and treats to reward your rats during
training. See Treats in Chapter 3 for more
information on good types of treats to
use.
Example of how to teach a trick to
your rat
To teach your rat a specific trick, like spinning in a circle on command, say the
command clearly and firmly with a treat in hand. Turn the rat in place manually, then
reward your rat. Repeat this a few times, encouraging your rat to turn. Once your rat
turns (even slightly) on its own, verbally give praise and reward with the treat and
physical contact.
Your rats’ personalities affect what tricks they can learn
Your rats can learn to use a litter box, use an exercise wheel, run a maze or obstacle
course, play fetch, walk on a leash, and other fun activities! However, your rats’
personalities may affect the kinds of tricks they are better suited towards. For instance,
females often perform better at speed and agility tricks due to their high energy.
Help your rat avoid distractions
There are various ways to keep your rat on
task. Give your rats a chance to explore the
surroundings fully before attempting to train,
since they have a strong natural instinct to
explore new things. Use a consistent training
area to associate training with a specific place.
Also, avoid training male rats and female rats
in the same areas, since they leave very
distracting scent trails for each other.
Positive reinforcement
Positive reinforcement is the best proven way to keep your rat interested in training.
Punishing your rats if they don’t perform how you want them to is counterproductive.
Keeping the sessions for training at a smaller time limit also helps. Usually 10 to 15
minutes is a good amount of time per day.
Chapter 5: Maintenance
Chapter 5
29
Chapter 5: Maintenance
Cleaning cages
Rat’s cages should be cleaned
at least once a week. For each
cleaning session, all bedding
should be replaced, any
hammocks, toys, and
accessories washed, and the
cage bars hosed down.
Never use harsh chemicals to
clean your rats’ cage. They
have very sensitive noses and
easily fall prey to respiratory
illnesses. Breathing in harsh chemicals will quickly aggravate their immune systems.
Water alone is usually a very effective solvent.
Litter training for rats
Rats can be litter trained as long as their litter is placed in a pan and is changed out
frequently. Reward your rats if you spot them using the litter box, and relocate any out
of place accidents to the litter box. Your rats will quickly learn to use it after that.
Unfortunately, litter training usually only applies for where rats poop. Rats tend to
urine mark wherever they go. Despite this, keeping the poop in one place is still helpful
in cleaning your rats’ cages more efficiently.
Vet care
Providing healthcare for pet rats can be an expensive venture, since rats are considered
exotic pets by most veterinarians. Costs are high for every procedure, and it doubles
since there are at a minimum of two rats to deal with.
On the bright side, since rats are the most highly researched and documented animals
in the world, thanks to laboratory science, information on their symptoms and illnesses
is very widely available online.
Conclusion
31
Conclusion
Reading about how to take care of rats is not a substitute for actually taking care of
them. Rats are lovable, snuggly companions, and though their lives are short, they
brighten the lives of everyone around them.
This care guide includes the basic information required for you to be a responsible rat
owner, including basic behavior, diet, choosing the perfect rat pair, introducing new
rats to an established colony, toys, rats’ daily needs, maintenance, and even training
your rats to do tricks. However, there is so much more information online and in
libraries about rats! The Bibliography section lists out some other decent rat guides.
However, ultimately the best way for you to be sure that you are giving your rat the
best treatment possible is to read as much as you can about them and compare notes.
Congratulations on choosing to learn more about rats – you won’t regret it!
Glossary
33
Glossary
Antinutrients – natural or synthetic compounds that interfere with the absorption of
nutrients.
“Backyard breeder” – people who breed animals without researching what they are
doing, and often do not take into consideration the health, tameness, longevity, and
conformity of their bred animals.
Bumblefoot – a bacterial infection and inflammatory reaction on the feet of birds and
rodents.
Colony – the term for a group of rats living together.
Ethically bred pet rats – are the results of planned breeding in order to improve the
qualities of health, conformation, and tameness of each rat.
Fancy Rat – a domesticated brown rat, Rattus norvegicus, and the most common type of
pet rat.
Feeder rats – rats bred with the intention to serve as food for exotic reptiles like snakes.
Free range – letting your rat out of its cage to play loose in a room or other rat proofed
area.
Galvanized – metal which has had a protective zinc coating applied to it in order to
prevent rusting
Genetic disease – health issues which can easily be avoided through ethical, planned
breeding.
Lab blocks – specially formulated food fed to rodents kept in a laboratory. It is
commonly accepted as providing all the necessary nutrients in appropriate quantity in
order for the animals to remain healthy.
34
How to Care for Fancy Rats
Megacolon – a fatal genetic disease. It most often occurs in BEW (black-eyed white),
husky, blazed, split-capped, tri-colored, odd-eyed, and other “high white” lines of rats.
murine mycoplasmosis – a respiratory disease.
Myco – a nickname for murine mycoplasmosis.
Neuter – to remove an animal's reproductive organ, either all of it or a considerably
large part, often used in reference to males whereas spaying is often reserved for
females.
Norway Rat – a domesticated brown rat, Rattus norvegicus, and the most common type
of pet rat.
Powder coated – steel covered with a polyester or epoxy powder, which is then heated
to fuse into a protective layer.
Rat-baiting – a historical blood sport involving the baiting of rats in a pit.
Rat proofing – to protect an area of the house by making it difficult for rats to chew
wires and hide underneath furniture.
Rattus norvegicus – the scientific name for the brown rat.
Respiratory illness – a medical term that for illnesses that affect the organs and tissues
for breathing, such as the lungs.
SDA – rat corona virus, a highly contagious virus that weakens rats’ immune systems.
Seed mix – an unhealthy type of food for rats, often containing excess sunflower seeds
(which are not healthy in large quantities) and too much corn or seed content
Solanine – a poisonous compound that is present in green potatoes and in related
plants.
Spay – to remove an animal's reproductive organ, either all of it or a considerably large
part, often used in reference to females whereas neutering is often reserved for males.
Bibliography
35
Bibliography
Bucsis, Gerry, and Barbara Somerville. Training Your Pet Rat. Hauppauge, NY: Barron's
Educational Series, 2000. Print.
Ducommun, Debbie. Rats: Practical, Accurate Advice from the Expert. Irvine, CA: Bow Tie,
2003. Print.
Grant RN, Karen. "Rat Guide." Rat Guide. N.p., n.d. Web. 15 Apr. 2014.
<http://ratguide.com/>.
Mays, Nick. The Proper Care of Fancy Rats. Neptune City, NJ: T.F.H. Publications, 1993.
Print.
Index
37
Index
aggression, 3, 4, 7, 8, 23
bedding, 5, 11, 12, 13, 29
Bumblefoot, 11, 33
chew, 19, 25, 34
Ethical breeders, 5, 6
Exercise wheels, 13
food, 5, 12, 13, 17, 18, 19, 23, 24, 33, 34
Forbidden foods, 17, 18
healthcare, 29
immune system, 12
introducing new rats, 8, 23
lab blocks, 17, 18
Litter training, 29
new rat, vi, 7, 8, 23
new rats, 4, 7, 8, 24
nutrition, 17, 18
pet rescue, 7
pet store, 5
play, 8, 23, 24, 25, 26, 33
Play areas, 25
Positive reinforcement, 26
Rat proofing, 25, 34
rat-baiting, vi
respiratory, 5, 6, 11, 12, 29, 34
respiratory disease, 6, 34
seed mixes, 17
social hierarchy, 23
Toys, 13
treats, vi, 13, 19, 23, 24, 25, 26
vet, 7
Vet, 29
veterinarian, 7