1. No category

Diane Curtz
President - SLMGA Board of Directors
This will be the last time I write an article for The Garden Patch as your President. Thanks to all of you for your
exceptional support and confidence in me during my tenure.
Even if we continue to have no direct involvement with the USU Extension and its Master Gardener Program in Salt Lake County, I believe
that our Association will remain strong in the future. We have a great slate of new people who are willing to be the new board members
for the next term. We do still have some challenges left to resolve--namely recruiting new members and deciding which projects, and
how many, we can physically support in the future. I have been contacted by a few of the new students asking if they can join our
Association and volunteer on our projects after they graduate. I have told them that they can and that we would love to have them join
the SLMGA, but I have also explained that if they volunteer on any of our projects that those hours will not count toward hours needed to
maintain their active status in the USU Master Gardener Program. The ones I have talked to felt that being able to work “hands-on” with
Master Gardeners having a number of years of gardening experience and attending our monthly educational meetings was worth the
trade-off. If a few of the new graduates do join the SLMGA that will provide additional support for our projects.
I have been a member of a number of associations over the years, both in Utah and three other states, and I can honestly say that the
members of SLMGA are the most supportive, carrying and sharing of any that I have been a part of. You are the BEST!
How to Preserve Sweet Corn
Keep your corn consumable during the coldest months of the year by
preserving it. During the summer, when sweet corn tastes its best, ideally it
should be eaten within hours of picking. After that period the sugar in the corn
converts to starch and reduces the flavor of even the sweetest varieties. To lock
this flavor in place for sweet summer corn, preserve the corn immediately after
purchase or picking, and enjoy it throughout the year.
Step 1 Bring a pot of water to a boil over medium high heat.
Step 2 Pull the husks and silk off the corn cobs while waiting for the water to boil.
Step 3 Add the corn to the pot and return to a boil over medium high heat.
Step 4 Boil the corn for three minutes to blanch the corn. This partially cooks the corn and locks in the flavor.
Step 5 Drain the corn through a colander and submerge the corn into the bowl of cold water to stop the cooking process.
Step 6 Cut the corn kernels from the cob, 3/4 of the way down, if desired.
Step 7 Fill a freezer bag with whole corn cobs or line the freezer container with the bag and fill with cut corn kernels.
Step 8 Seal the bag and/or freezer container. Freeze the corn for up to 10 months in the coldest part of your freezer.
(From http://www.gardenguides.com/99432-preserve-sweet-corn.html)
2012
The past year was filled with many challenges as we all dealt with the many changes to our Association and its part in
the USU Extension Master Gardener Program in Salt Lake County brought by USU Extension after Katie Wagner, the new
USU Extension Agent, and JayDee Gunnell, the new USU Extension Salt Lake County Director, took their new positions.
When the changes were first announced, we weren’t sure our Association would survive; however, with your dedication
and the unwaivering commitment of an amazing group of fellow board members, committee coordinators and project leaders, we
successfully met those challenges head-on.
Fall Edition
News From Our President
Golden’s Garden
by Golden Reeves
Summer is coming to a close quickly and the Utah State Fair is already past. As I am writing this article, it is
mid-September and already the garden is acting like it is the middle of October.
For the first time, I took some tomato plants out of the garden before the season was over. The Costoluto
Genovese tomatoes were taking over the garden and, I felt, they were not worth keeping. The plant was
supposed to produce ribbed firm fleshy fruits weighing up to 7 oz. They were ribbed and small and the taste was sufficient, but there was not
much to the tomato. It had vigorous growing vines that spread over every thing. It ended up making a good addition to the compost pile.
My first planting of corn has been harvested and the stalks have been through the chipper shredder. The second planting of corn has been
harvested also. I planted them in the same area that the peas had been growing and the corn produced was delicious. The Walla Walla onions
have been harvested and the little pencil thin plants that were planted are now onions weighing 20 ounces or more. My wife is complaining
about the cucumbers not growing in straight—they want to grow in a circle. Does any one have an idea why this is happening? I told her to
go ask the plant but she just gave that dirty look. I try to tell her I don’t have all the answers, but she tells me that I should.
I have been doing a lot of dead heading, weeding, and cutting back of many of the plants in my yard. As I fill up a five-gallon bucket, I take
it to the compost area and store it until I have enough to get out the chipper shredder to chop the cuttings into small bits so it can compost
quicker. I have discovered over the years that the smaller the pieces, the more rapidly they will heat up and break down.
Last year, I was going to divide my iris but family needs and other work kept me so busy that it did not get done. This year, I was able to get all
twelve variety divided and I could tell that they should have been divided last year. There were two ladies that had stopped a couple of years
ago and wanted plants. I still remembered them and where they lived and was able to invite them over to get some plants. I charged them
$1.00 for the first plant if they took two plants it was only 50 cents. If they took three plants it was 25 cents and any plants over 4 they were
free. With this method I was able to get rid of many plants. The remainder I potted up to give away later. There was much debris from the iris
plants that I placed in the compost area as well. A few years ago, I went on a job that involved dividing iris. These plants had not been taken
care of for many years. There were four layers that had grown over the tubers. It was a real mess to take out and replant.
My apple trees are still overloaded and the Granny Smith tree wants to tip over again. I have propped up some large limbs and replaced the
car jack into a different position. When the fruit comes off, I will need to take another limb off located on the south side of the tree. From the
very beginning, it has wanted to grow on an angle and no matter what I do, I have not been able to correct it. The birds are eating their fair
share of apples, but at this time it is too early to pick them.
My green beans this year have really produced. During many years, I can only get two to three pickings and then they are through. This year, I
am still picking beans well into September and I think the change comes from the bee population around my place. The population has grown
because Master Gardener Richard Norris has his bee colony only three blocks away.
The Burpee Long Keeper tomatoes are starting to ripen up and will need to be picked before the next rain storm arrives. I plant them about six
weeks after the regular tomatoes are in the ground. They are a great addition to keep the tomato season and delicious eating going well into
next year.
The heavy work is ahead with harvesting and getting our gardens ready for the winter. Enjoy the work or at least I hope you survive!
A Note from the Editor
The Garden Patch is published seven times annually
by the Salt Lake Master Gardener Association.
Editor: Allison Topham
Send address changes to:
1124 East Range Road, SLC, Utah, 84117
phone: 801.486.2430 ext 30531
email address: [email protected]
Past issues of The Garden Patch may be found at
http://www.slmg.org/gardenPatchTOC.html
This edition of The Garden Patch will be my last as the designer, producer and editor. I have
enjoyed my time in this role but now have decided to move on to other volunteer activities and
interests. I thank you for taking the time to read The Garden Patch during the past three years.
Thanks to Golden Reeves, Val Chatwin, Vivia Baldwin, Jo Turpin, Cheri Schulzke, Jeff Asay,
Diane Curtz, Karen Crook, Jenny Rogers and Debbie Stevenson for writing and submitting
amazing articles and information. And a huge thanks to Amy Hargreaves Judzis for her
dedication to keeping the electronic version uploaded and sent each month. I also want to thank
my mentor, Jenny Allgrunn (who was the GP Editor for 10 years before me) for her guidance and
help. May your flowers always bloom! Allison Topham
SLMGA UPCOMING EVENTS
October Events
Thursday, October 18th / General Meeting Refreshments 6:30 / Presentation 7:00
“Everything about Pumpkins”
Location: SLC Government Offices / No. Building • Room N4017 / 2100 So State
If you ask 10 competitive pumpkin growers how to grow a giant pumpkin, you’re likely
to get 10 different answers. It seems everyone has his own way of coaxing the most
weight out of these giants. But there is a thread of consistency that runs throughout all
the instructions, and adhering to four basic tenets will get you well on your way. Above
all else, you need good seed, good soil, hard work and good luck. Attend the October
meeting and learn some pumpkin growing techniques. We would love everyone to
bring any recipes they may that use pumpkin as an ingredient.
(NOTE NORTH BUILDING LOCATION !)
November Events
Thursday, November 29th - Social time 6:00-6:30pm / Dinner & Awards 6:30pm
“SLMGA Annual Dinner & Awards Banquet”
Location: Wheeler Historic Farm / 6351 South 900 East
Our final Master Gardener event for 2012 will be our traditional SLMGA Annual Dinner &
Awards Banquet, which will be held, as is the custom, at the Wheeler Farm Activity Barn.
The Association will provide the main course to all members and their guest.
WATCH FOR YOUR FORMAL INVITATION IN MAIL IN NOVEMBER!
We ask that each member bring either a salad, a side dish or a dessert (to serve 10-12 people).
We encourage those volunteering to set up or planning to arrive early for the 6:00pm Social
time to bring an appetizer for everyone to enjoy. We will need everyone’s help afterward to
clean up because we need to exit the Barn by 8:30pm.
VOLUNTEERS ARE NEEDED to help with set up beginning at 5:00pm. Please email Cheri Schulzke at [email protected]
How to Care for Cactus & Succulent Plants
Cacti and succulents are popular because they grow heartily in bad soil conditions and require very little care. They’re sought-after among brown
thumbs because they can survive extended periods of neglect. Still, they’re not entirely care-free. Cacti and succulents need to have their basic soil,
water and light needs met in order to thrive. Once these three things are in place, maintenance and care can be as simple as monthly watering.
Step 1 Water sparingly. Learn the growing season of your cactus or succulent plant. This period usually happens during the spring and early
summer months. Water weekly during this time, then scale back to monthly watering for the rest of the year. Allow the soil to dry out completely
between watering, even if it means adjusting watering times.
Step 2 Use the right soil mix. Cacti and succulents like fast draining, sandy soil. These types of plants are famous for growing the harshest,
poorest soil conditions. Use potting soil designed specifically for cacti and succulents or make your own by mixing equal parts sand and potting
mix. Throw in a handful of gravel to make a more coarse mix.
Step 3 Use pots with drainage holes. If you grow your cacti and succulents indoors, drainage holes are crucial. Never let your plants sit in water
because they succumb to mold and root rot more easily than other plants.
Step 4 Provide air circulation. Open a window or occasionally run a ceiling fan. Succulents thrive in conditions with regular air movement.
Step 5 Learn your plant’s preferred lighting conditions. Cacti and succulents usually do better in filtered light conditions instead of direct
sunlight. Avoid placing them in direct, hot sunlight for extended periods of time because they can burn. Some cacti do require direct sunlight, so if
you find your plant shrinking back or looking thin and spindly, move it closer to the sunlight.
(From http://www.gardenguides.com/84514-care-cactus-succulent-plants.html)
Yarrow
“Little Feather”
Yarrow is a flowering plant in
the family Asteraceae, which is
grown in temperate regions of
the Northern Hemisphere. In New
Mexico and southern Colorado,
it is called plumajillo, or “little
feather”, for the shape of the
leaves. In antiquity, yarrow was
known as herbal militaris, for
its use in staunching the flow
of blood from wounds. Other
common names for this species
include gordaldo, nosebleed
plant, and old man’s pepper.
Yarrow Description
Yarrow leaves are opposite and usually stalkless (sessile), and
is an erect herbaceous perennial plant that produces one to
several stems (0.2 to 1 m tall) and has a rhizomatous growth
form. Leaves are evenly distributed along the stem, with
the leaves near the middle and bottom of the stem being
the largest. The leaves have varying degrees of hairiness
(pubescence). The leaves are 5–20 cm long, bipinnate or
tripinnate, almost feathery, and arranged spirally on the
stems. The leaves are cauline and more or less clasping.
The inflorescence has four to 9 phyllaries and contains ray
and disk flowers which are white to pink. The generally
three to eight ray flowers are ovate to round. Disk flowers
range from 15 to 40. The inflorescence is produced in a flattopped cluster. The fruits are small achenes. Yarrow grows
at low or high altitudes, up to 3500 m above sea level. The
plant commonly flowers from May through June, and is a
frequent component in butterfly gardens. Common yarrow
is frequently found in the mildly disturbed soil of grasslands
and open forests. Active growth occurs in the spring.
A Book Review
by
Debbie
Stevenson
Joy in Your Garden—
A Seasonal Guide to
Gardening
If you are a gardener,
you’ll probably agree
that the next best thing
to gardening is reading
about gardening. Perusing
the gardening books
at the local bookstore,
I happily discovered a
book by two well-known
and very knowledgeable
local gardeners—Joy Bossi and Karen Bastow. Their book, Joy in Your
Garden—A Seasonal Guide to Gardening, is written with wit as well
as wisdom. It follows a seasonal format beginning with Fall, because,
according to the authors, Fall is the time to envision and plan for next
year’s garden. Along with beautiful photos, helpful diagrams and
bonus boxes containing special tips, the colorful pages are packed
with information about growing your own produce as well as caring for
ornamentals in your landscape. The authors write with a liberal dose
of humor as they share gardening knowledge gained over the years,
which makes for a fun-filled and informative gardening book.
Note: The authors have also teamed up to write The Incredible Edible
Landscape which was published in 2012 and is focused on home food
production.
Yarrow Facts and Uses
Yarrow is considered an especially useful companion plant,
not only repelling some bad insects while attracting good,
predatory ones, but also improving soil quality. It attracts
predatory wasps, which drink the nectar and then use
insect pests as food for their larvae. Similarly, it attracts
ladybugs and hoverflies. Its leaves are thought to be good
fertilizer, and a beneficial additive for compost.
In the Middle Ages, yarrow was part of a herbal mixture
known as gruit used in the flavoring of beer prior to the
use of hops. The flowers and leaves are used in making
some liquors and bitters.
Yarrow has also been used as a food, and was very popular
as a vegetable in the 17th century. The younger leaves
are said to be a pleasant leaf vegetable when cooked as
spinach, or in a soup. Yarrow is sweet with a slight bitter
taste. The leaves can also be dried and used as a herb in
cooking.
Yarrow has seen historical use as a medicine, often
because of its astringent effects.
(From Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarrow)
(From USU University Cooperative Extension : http://extension.usu.edu/htm/faq/faq_q=3242)
Question:
Why do we rake leaves? What would happen
to my lawn and flower garden if I just left
them on the ground and let the grass and
perennials grow up through them? We
currently mulch them with a mower and
let most of them stay. Are we raising the
elevation of our lawn? Are we doing good or
bad to it?
Answer:
Raking leaves is generally a good practice of sanitation, that is cleaning up possibly
diseased leaves or preventing a dark, warm environment for diseases and pests to
develop and create problems in the spring for new tender growth. As for mulching
the leaves and leaving them on the grass, it should be okay if the depth of the
mulched leaves is not so deep to create a warm dark environment for undesirable
pathogens (bacteria & fungi) to multiply. There are desirable bacteria and fungi
which help decompose leaves into organic matter that can be done during the
winter. As for raising elevation - no. Generally, I would recommend raking, and
composting the leaves in a managed way, to prevent possible diseases and pests
developing. (Answered by Maggie Shao)
The Cherokee Purple Heirloom Tomato
One aspect of vegetable gardening that keeps it
interesting each year is trying new varieties.
There’s been such a buzz about heirloom varieties that when my
husband and I were buying our tomato starts this past spring, we also
chose a Cherokee Purple Heirloom. We may have discovered what the
heirloom buzz is all about—FLAVOR! Cherokee Purple has been added
to our list of favorite tomatoes.
by Debbie Stevenson
The Cherokee Purple plant produced the first ripe tomato in our garden
even though it was supposed to have a longer time to maturity that our
other tomato varieties. My research on this heirloom didn’t turn up a
lot of information, other than the Cherokee Purple is thought to have
been passed down from the Native American Cherokee people—it is an
indeterminate, beefsteak in style with an 80-90 day maturity, and may be
prone to splitting. It belongs to the group of “black” tomatoes, although
it is really a dark purplish red with green across the top (shoulders). It
may not have the uniform shape and even red color that we equate
with a perfect tomato, but the flavor makes it outstanding. Since we
have eaten every ripe Cherokee Purple tomato in our garden, the photo
I’ve included is compliments of Bonnie Plants. Given our success with
this heirloom tomato, we are looking forward to trying other heirloom
vegetables.
Curious to learn more about heirloom plants, I was fortunate to find an
article written by Larry Sagers, and I appreciate all the research he did to
give a definition to the term “heirloom plant”. As with most things, there
are varying opinions, but a basic definition of an “heirloom” is:
1. At least 50 years old and/or passed down from generation to generation;
2. Open-pollinated (seeds will produce a plant like the parent plant if rules for keeping the line pure are followed);
3. Has a unique quality or characteristic that makes it desirable.
Refer to Larry Sagers’ article entitled “Heirloom Plants: Gardeners
Growing Produce that has a Heritage—and Tastes Good, Too” for a
detailed explanation about what is considered an heirloom as well as
thoughts on the importance of preserving heirloom seeds, published in
the Deseret News on February 27, 2011.
SLMGA Volunteer hours for the period of
October 1, 2011 through October 1, 2012 are due.
A Volunteer Hour Form was enclosed in the Aug/Sept edition of The Garden Patch.
The forms MUST be submitted to Golden Reeves at the address listed by
October 15, 2012 for the hours to be(From
recorded
this year!
LowesCreativeIdeas.com/Lawn101)
(To send, the address and FAX information are located on the form.)
For a copy of the form, go to page 12 of this pdf.
Be sure to regularly check out the SLMGA
blog site for news and photos of past events!
http://slmastergardener.blogspot.com/
GREAT NEWS FOR GILGAL GARDEN!
It looks very likely that the City Council will approve funding for a new, state of the art,
irrigation system for Gilgal Garden, which would be installed next Spring. This system is
badly needed—the current system is a patchwork of almost unworkable pipes and hoses.
This means we will work with the Salt Lake City Parks Director, Emy Maloutas, to design a
new system, and a new landscape plan, including more xeric plants that bloom like crazy,
and are not thugs that grow together, invade their neighbors, and reseed.
Katie Wagner, of USU Extension, has agreed that we will turn the irrigation design and
landscape design into classes over the Winter that both current and new Master Gardeners
can participate and count the hours.
She has also agreed that all current Master Gardeners that have been involved with volunteering at Gilgal Garden can continue their
work and count the hours as personal volunteer time. New Master Gardeners won’t be able to count the hours, though they are
welcome to join us any time.
We are still working on Tuesday mornings from 8:00am to noon, and probably will continue to do so through mid-October, if the
weather holds. If you want to confirm the work hours on a specific day, please give me a call at 801-487-7387. Judi Short
(Copied from http://www.gardenguides.com/82166-characteristics-acidic-soils.html)
Characteristics of Acidic Soils
Education yourself on the characteristics of your planting soil can make a big difference on the
health and growth of the plants that you introduce to the soil. Soil PH is determined by the
percentage of acid or alkaline in the soil. Below is information about acidic soils.
Soil acidity determines the health of the flora you introduce into your landscape. As a general rule of thumb, if a soil pH test reveals a value below
7.0, you have acidic soil. Values above 7.0 usually denote alkaline soil, whereas a result of exactly 7.0 indicates neutral soil conditions. It is tempting to
visit the home improvement store or nursery in search of soil amendments that will neutralize the pH level of your soil even if it is close to 7.0; before
you do so, a quick look at the characteristics of acidic soils may convince you to not change a thing.
RISK OF TOXICITY
Plants require a favorable soil pH to take up nutrients, build strong root systems and thrive. Soil pH levels that are slightly acidic result in a better
nutrient availability to plants, since nutrients and minerals dissolve more easily in this soil; however, if your soil’s acidity is too high, this advantage
actually turns into a drawback. Your soil then experiences oversaturation with some otherwise beneficial minerals and nutrients. This overdose of
iron, aluminum and also manganese may be toxic to many of your plants. For example, high levels of soluble aluminum exist in soil when the pH
level reaches---or drops lower than--5.5. An overdose of soluble aluminum leads to plant root deterioration in some species, which in turn prevents
the plants from absorbing the nutrients and water they need to properly grow and thus stunts their growth.
GROWTH SUPPORT
Moderate soil acidity favorably impacts the growth and health of some plants, but even higher acidity can still sustain plant life. Prior to introducing
new plants into your landscape, check the soil pH and then shop for flora that will do well in your soil. For example, bog rosemary prefers acidity
levels of 4.0 to 5.0 and wheat thrives in soil with a pH of 5.0. Bleeding heart grows well in areas with levels ranging from 5.0 to 6.5. Heather and
heath need a pH between 5.0 and 6.2; grasses prefer a level of 5.5, and legumes thrive in soil with a pH of about 6.5. Astibles, foxglove and bergenias
do well in soil with a pH range from 5.5 to about 6.5. If your soil pH drops below 4.0, you will need to consider adding amendments to make it
hospitable to even the more acid-loving plants.
CHANGEABLE WITH LIME
SIf you do determine that your soil is so acidic that it cannot adequately sustain plant life, add lime as a soil amendment to raise the pH level. The
easiest way to introduce this substance into your soil is by purchasing commercially available lime pellets and spreading them onto the soil with the
help of a manual spreader. Work the lime into the top 6 inches of soil with a rake or rototiller, water it in and give it some time to dissolve. Base the
quantity of lime on the makeup of your soil and its current pH level. For example, to raise the 5.0 pH level of clay soil to a future pH of about 6.5, you
need to spread 15 pounds of ground limestone for every 100 square feet of soil.
How to Plant Vegetables for Companion Gardening
For ages, companion plants have played a big role in the success of vegetable gardening
Companion planting is sometimes considered the front runner of organic gardening, the reasons for which are obvious in the garden. Gardeners have
been planting certain types of plants together as companions for centuries. The benefits of companion planting are natural insect repellents, shade and
windbreaks, and to discourage animals that are harmful in the garden like rabbits dogs and cats. Some plants, like legumes, release nitrogen into the
soil which decreases the need for yearly fertilization and provide needed nitrogen to its neighbors. Another benefit to companion planting is spacing:
growing tall and vining plants in the same patch can free up valuable real estate in the garden.
Below is a chart listing popular vegetables and their good and bad companion planting partners:
PLANT
GOOD COMPANION
BAD
Basil
Pepper, Tomato, Marigold
Bush Beans
Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Corn, Cucumbers, Eggplant, Lettuce, Pea, Radish, Strawberry, Savory, Tansy, Marigold
Onions
Pole Beans
Carrots, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Lettuce, Pea, Radish, Savory, Tansy
Beets / Onions
Beets
Bush Beans, Cabbage, Onion, Sage
Cabbage Family
Bush Beans, Beets, Celery, Onions, Tomato, All Strong Herbs, Marigold, Nasturtium
Strawberries
Carrots
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Peas, Radish, Tomato, Sage
Dill
Celery
Bush Beans, Cabbage, Onion, Spinach, Tomato
Corn
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Cucumber, Melons, Peas, Squash
Tomatoes
Cucumbers
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Corn, Lettuce, Onions, Peas, Radish, Marigold, Nasturtium, Savory
Strong Herbs
Eggplant
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Spinach
Lettuce
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Cucumbers, Onion, Radish,
Strawberries
Melons
Corn, Nasturtium, Radish
Onion
Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Cucumber, Lettuce, Pepper, Bush Beans,
Squash, Strawberries, Tomato, Savory
Pole Beans Peas
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Corn Cucumber, Radish, Turnips
Oniions
ParsleyTomato
Peas
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Corn Cucumber, Radish, Turnips
Onion
PepperOnion
Radish
Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Cucumber, Lettuce, Melons, Peas, Squash
Spinach
Celery, Eggplant, Cauliflower
Squash
Corn, Onion, Radish
Strawberry
Bush Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Spinach
Cabbage
Tomato
Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Onion, Mint
Corn, Fennel
(From http://www.gardenguides.com/410-good-amp-bad-companions-vegetables.html)
Hyssop
Star Award Presented to Karen Crook
New this year is the Star Award, honoring those Master Gardeners that go above and beyond the “call
of duty” as a Master Gardener in the community and to the Association. Our most recent recipient is
Karen Crook. Karen was nominated by Amy Hargreaves Judzis. For so many years, Karen has been a
valuable asset to the Association. Her positive attitude is always so contagious. Everyone loves Karen,
and we appreciate her generous soul and participation in all SLMGA activities. Next time you see Karen,
congratulate her and thank her for everything she does to help our Association succeed!
If you would like to nominate a Master Gardener for a SLMGA Star Award, please contact Allison Topham at [email protected]
All that is needed is a name and a reason the Master Gardener you are nominating is outstanding.
GARDENING PROJECT:
Removing Lawn Thatch
Thatch, the buildup of dead grass between living grass
and the soil, causes trouble for your lawn when it exceeds
1/2 inch thick. Excessive thatch prevents air, water, and
nutrients from reaching plant roots. Cutting through and
removing thatch improves your lawn’s health.
TOOLS & MATERIALS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Trowel or shovel
Tape measure
Stiff lawn rake
Thatch rake, or power rake or vertical mower
Sprinkler
Lawn fertilizer
Grass seed (optional)
Determine depth of thatch. Remove a core of soil from the lawn
with a trowel or shovel and measure the depth of the thatch, which is the
layer of dead grass above the soil line. A layer that’s 1/2 to 1 inch thick can
be removed with a stiff lawn rake. Deeper layers may require a power rake.
Determine the best season to remove thatch. The best time
to dethatch is just before the grass begins a period of active growth,
which is spring for warm-season grasses such as Bermuda, St. Augustine,
and zoysia. Cool-season kinds such as Kentucky bluegrass are best
dethatched just before their period of most active growth, in very early
spring or early autumn.
Choose method. For shallow thatch on small areas, use a stiff lawn
rake. For small lawns with more than an inch of thatch, use a special
thatch rake. Large areas and thick layers call for power rakes or vertical
mowers, which are available from rental agencies.
Prepare lawn. Mow a little lower than usual. If needed, water the lawn
to moisten the soil.
Use a thatching rake. Pull the blade-like tines across the lawn,
cutting through the thatch. Work in small sections, and then remove the
debris with a rake.
Use a power rake or vertical mower. Adjust the cutters to slice
just through the thatch layer. Check cutter depth after first few feet. Run
the machine in parallel rows over the lawn and then again at 90? to the
first pass. Remove debris with a lawn rake.
Aftercare. Water and fertilize the lawn to help it recover from
dethatching. To prevent thatch buildup from recurring, adjust the soil pH
and alter your lawn care habits if needed (excessive use of water, fertilizer,
or pesticides are common causes). Overseed with a good-quality grass
seed to improve the lawn’s health, vigor, and appearance.
Miscellaneous Tips
Thatch is caused by several factors, including grass type,
excessive watering, soil compaction, high or low soil pH, or
overuse of fertilizer and pesticides.
Lawns with a thick layer of thatch are more vulnerable to
drought, as well as to insect and disease damage. Lawns with
thick thatch may feel springy underfoot.
http://www.garden.org/howtos/index.php?q=show&id=1311
Who Would Have Thought?
by Cheri Schulzke
I was invited to a Woman’s Conference where the salad was “Spring Greens and Purslane served
with a Raspberry Vinaigrette.” I was surprised to see the word “Purslane” on the menu. I thought
that it might be some fancy French word for a crouton or something. The salad was served and
Yup, there was the Purslane leaves on my salad plate! The very same Purslane I have been cursing
and picking from my yard and throwing it into the garbage. So I began to eat my salad and it was
quite tasty, having almost an Arugula peppery taste.
Well, I went home and pulled up some Purslane from my neighbor’s yard that was growing in the
cracks of his driveway. I washed the Purslane off with soapy water and took a taste of the leaves.
It had the same Arugula peppery taste.
The next day I went to Wheeler’s Farmers Market and lo and behold, there was a vendor selling
Purslane for a $1.00 a bunch. I have been throwing the darn stuff away and I could be making my
millions on picking and selling it. The next week at my Yoga Class, my Yoga teacher was taking
about how her family, who still lives in New Mexico, would pick and cook Purslane (stem and all) in butter and onions and serve it over meat. So I did some
research and found out the following on Purslane. Maybe after you read the qualities of Purslane you won’t be so quick to throw it into the garbage.
Botanically, this herbaceous leafy vegetable (herb) belongs to the family of Portulacaceae and scientifically known as Portulaca oleracea. Other common
names are pusley, pigweed, or verdolaga. It’s even in the Bible. Job 6:6 Will a man take food which has not taste without salt? Or is there any taste in the soft
substance of purslane?
Herb or vegetable?
This lemony, crisp nutritional powerhouse is neither, it’s actually a succulent. Many describe it as similar to arugula or spinach. It’s less bitter than arugula
and less tannic than spinach. It can be prepared in many of the same ways.
Health benefits of Purslane
• This wonderful green leafy vegetable is very low in calories (just 16 kcal/100g) and fats; but is rich in a dietary fiber, vitamins, and minerals.
• Fresh leaves contain surprisingly more Omega-3 fatty acid than any other leafy vegetable plant. 100 grams of fresh Purslane leaves provide about 350 mg of Omega-3 fatty acid. Research studies shows that consumption of foods rich in w-3 fatty acids may reduce the risk of coronary
heart disease and strokes.
• It is an excellent source of Vitamin A, Purslane is one of the highest among green leafy vegetables. Vitamin A is a known powerful natural antioxidant and is essential for vision.
• Purslane is also a rich source of Vitamin C, and some B-complex vitamins like riboflavin, niacin, pyridoxine and carotenoids, as well as dietary minerals, such as iron, magnesium, calcium, potassium, and manganese. {Proc.West.Pharmacol.Soc.45: 101-103}
• Purslane kicks nutritional booty as compared to four super foods on the list:
Cabbage: Purslane has more vitamin C.
Beets: Purslane has more vitamin A. (and it does not taste like dirt)
Swiss Chard: Purslane has more iron and calcium.
Blueberries: Purslane has more iron and calcium.
Restaurants are now using this herb/veggie in their menus. It is being grown in back yard restaurant gardens or on roof top gardens and served to their
customers touting that it is the new natural antioxidant food. After gathering Purslane, follow these instructions to prepare for cooking and also storing:
Wash fresh leaves and stems in cold soapy water to remove any soil, insecticide or fungicide residues. Rinse in cold running water. If you are going to store
in the fridge, like any herb, you will roll and wrap it up in a damp paper towel and place inside a zip lock baggy. It can keep in the fridge for about 3-4 days
but should be eaten while the leaves are fresh and not wilted.
Here is a recipe I found. No I have not tried it. But for those of you who can and pickle might try. I think I would call the USU Extension Canning
Department before I would try this.
“Now is the time to gather all those pesky Purslane growing in your yard. Pickle them for winter salads and garnishes. Blanche for 5 seconds and
pack stems and leaves into a jar and cover with four parts vinegar and one part water with 2 tablespoons salt dissolve in it, and add 1 teaspoon
black peppercorns and 2 large garlic cloves crushed. Cover and set in a cool place for two weeks [this is a fermented pickle] keep submerged and
remove any scum that might form. Use in salads, as a garnish or stirred into scrambled eggs or sandwich fillings.”
Who would have thought Purslane as food storage! Purslane is an annual that reproduces from seeds and from stem pieces. Seeds of Purslane have
been known to stay viable for 40 years in the soil. So don’t think of it as a weed, think of it as 40 years of food. I found many recipes on the internet using
Purslane. I suggest that you check the internet to find recipes to experiment with while it is Purslane season.
Now, if we could only find a use for Bindweed :)
SLMGA 2013 Board of Director Candidates
With only one candidate for each 2013 Board office, it has been decided that we do not need an election The Bylaws state that
when there is just one nominee for a position, the Board of the SLMGA delares that nominee elected by acclamation and no
election is necessary. Below, discover the wonderful members who have stepped up to lead our Association beginning Jan 2013.
VI C E - P R E S I DE N T
PRESID ENT
RON JONES
I was born and raised in Panaca,
Nevada, and started gardening
when he was six years old. I asked
my Grandpa for a piece of the
family garden, and was told I could
have one row the next year and an
additional row each year if I took
good care of what he was given.
By the time I was a teenager I was
farming most of the one acre garden. I have planted a garden in
seven states and one foreign country (Germany). My strength is
vegetable gardening, but I also love to keep my present home
beautiful with WOW bed flowers.
I became a Master Gardener in 2005 and was awarded a
certificate that year as a “Volunteer with Promise”. I also
completed my first 100 volunteer hours in 2005. The majority
of this time was spent as project manager of the Wheeler Farm
vegetable garden. In 2006 I was recognized as the Salt Lake
County Master Gardener of the year. I presently have served
over 700 hours as a Master Gardner. I also enjoy giving classes in
the community on a variety of subjects. I have served at the Salt
Lake County Fair and the Utah State Fair.
I am honored to be nominated as President of the Association
for next term, and if elected will give my all to serve in that
capacity. I believe in the worth of the Association and see us
playing a continued and increasing role in the community. At a
time that gardening appears to be having an increased interest
in the community, I believe that it is important to help others
enjoy the experience. With the wealth of experience in the Salt
Lake Master Gardener Association, we have a lot to give.
TERRY CURLING
Diane Curtz must have confidence in me
being a SLMGA board member because at
the annual picnic she asked if I would be
interested in running for the office of Vice
President. It was an honor to be asked so I said
without giving it much thought “sure, OK”.
Later that evening Allison asked me to write
a short bio about myself for the Garden Patch
and say why I would like to become a board
member; then I really had to start thinking.
I was born and raised in England, then lived in Germany for a few years
before coming to Utah in 1978 and have lived here since then; currently
in West Valley City with my wife Kim. I have always enjoyed working in
the garden. As a child, my dad taught me a lot about growing things and
he still putters around in his garden at age 92. Gardening in Utah can be
challenging at times but that’s what keeps it interesting.
I have been a SLMGA member since 2007 after graduating from the Master
Gardener Class. Since then I have become acquainted with many of the
Master Gardeners, they are a great bunch of people who enjoy sharing
their knowledge of gardening and are always eager to learn more. The
Master Gardener Association is what brings us together as a group. This is
the main reason why I would consider stepping up to serve on the Board
because willingness to give dedicated leadership is what will help to keep
the Association alive.
Over the years I have worked on several of the MG volunteer projects and
for the past two seasons have been a regular at Gilgal Garden working
with Judi Short. I am also actively involved with the USU Extension and
take advantage of the many volunteer and educational opportunities they
offer. As a SLMGA board member I would do all I can to attract new Master
Gardeners to our Association and strive to keep the existing members
actively involved.
S ECR ETARY
JAN KONOLD
Hello, I am Jan Konold. I have loved being a part of the Salt Lake Master Gardener Association Board during the 2011-12 term,
as the Volunteer Coordinator and being in touch with all of the members as I send out the periodic announcements about
our upcoming functions. I have also attended all of the monthly Board meetings and been active in making decisions for our
membership.
I have also been assigned the position of Secretary on the Board from June to December 2012 since Diane Kassavetis, the
original Secretary moved out of state.
I am excited to see the Salt Lake Master Gardener Association continue to be a success in our community. We have great
potential as a team, despite the conflicts with the USU Extension recently. As a member of the uncoming Board team, I will do everything in my power to
see that we continue to “grow” as Master Gardeners.
BOARD BIOS CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE
SLMGA 2013 Board of Director Candidates
T R EASURER
Morning Glory is Gory
by Dennis Hinkamp
Copied from http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/pub__3392708.htm)
CHERI SCHULZKE
I earned my MG certification in 2003
by taking my classes at Thanksgiving
Point with Larry Sagers as my
instructor. I took the MG classes there
as I needed afternoon classes. I did my
40 hours in Utah County. But I wanted
to be part of the Salt Lake Master
Gardeners. So Maggie Shao, the Salt
Lake USU Extension Horticulture
Agent at that time, required that I do another 40 hours in Salt
Lake which I completed in 2004. In 2006-2008 I was the Program
Coordinator for the Salt Lake Master Gardeners Association. In
2008 I was awarded Master Gardener of Year and Silver Trowel
Award. I have also been serving as the Program Coordinator for
most of 2012 since the original Program Coordinator had to step
down because of other commitments.
I was asked to be the Treasurer in 2013 for the Salt Lake Master
Gardeners Association which I have accepted. I look forward to
being on the Salt Lake Master Gardeners Association Board again.
H IS TORIAN
LEEANN EHRHART
I enjoy sharing my love of gardening
with others and became a Master
Gardener in 2007. My interests are
simple: sun loving, shade loving,
flowers and vegetables. My two boys
keep me busy and they enjoy being
outside in the dirt with mom.
A friend motivated me to become a Master Gardener. I took her
up on the offer, partly because of the obvious. I love gardening.
But I also needed an outlet of some just-for-me stuff. My husband
enjoys gardening as well, and the standard vegetables we raise are
for the entire family.
Because I am really involved with my children, I also belong to a
group reaching out with resources for other stay-at-home moms.
I continue to learn a tremendous amount from the Master Gardener
program and I hope I can pass this knowledge on to the community.
I also enjoy meeting and getting to know new Master Gardeners.
I look forward to being the Association Historian during the
upcoming term.
Remember...
Please wear your name badge to
SLMGA meetings and events to make it
easier to identify you in the crowd!
It’s more persistent and annoying than a telemarketer, and it’s probably the
plant that inspired the “Body Snatcher” movies. Calling it “Morning Glory” is
the work of a truly evil person. “I have dealt with field bindweed on a daily
basis, and it is one of the most tenacious, vicious, aggressive and downright
obnoxious weeds found in northern Utah.” says Jerry Goodspeed, USU Extension
horticulturist.
Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis L.) is technically a member of the morning
glory family, he explains. However, some morning glory is grown as an attractive
annual vine in our area. Field bindweed is not attractive.
Field bindweed is a strong-willed perennial, Goodspeed says. It grows from
rhizomes, which are technically underground stems. This gives the plant the
ability to move great distances under the ground without being detected. These
rhizomes can produce a “new” plant at each node on the stem. “In layman terms,
this means the plant has the ability to send up 1,000 new plants right where you
are trying to establish a flower bed or garden,” he says. “As if this were not evil
enough, this noxious weed also has the ability to produce thousands of seeds.
These seeds can lay dormant in the soil for up to 50 years before germinating.”
Are you scared yet?
“It’s impossible to control,” Goodspeed concedes. “Well, maybe not impossible,
it just seems that way. There are actually some defenses to try to reduce the
number of weeds and keep it under control.”
There is no easy remedy or quick cure, he says. It may take two or three years
of work, but it is worth the time and the effort. The first line of defense is
herbicides. Round-up and broadleaf weed killers are the best. These sprays
are most effective in the early spring and in the fall. Field bindweed is also
susceptible just as it begins to flower. Apply these products according to label
instructions. “All one application accomplishes is just to make the weed mad,”
Goodspeed adds. “It usually takes two or three applications, spaced a week or
two apart, to get its attention. Spring applications should weaken the plants.
Another application may be needed in the fall.”
Once the weeds look sick, apply a good deep mulch layer to weaken the plants
further, he says. A weed barrier fabric is also effective at slowing it down. It may still
find a way to work its way through or around the barrier, but by then its weakened
condition will make it a little easier to pull or spray.
One plant that actually out-competes field bindweed is grass, he says. A healthy,
vigorous lawn, properly maintained, will crowd out this pushy weed. If field
bindweed is a problem in the lawn, proper turf care should eliminate it. Mow the
lawn two and a half to three inches tall and fertilize regularly, but be careful not
to over-water turf. This only encourages field bindweed and weakens the grass.
“After two or three years of spraying, mulching, pulling and cursing, field
bindweed will weaken and become less of a problem,” Goodspeed says. “After
that, only occasional weeding and control will be needed over the next 45 years.”
# of
Hours
*Category
(refer to list)
**Project
(refer to list)
(how many)
Youth Adults
Contacts
MAIL TO ARRIVE BY OCT. 15th!
Wm. Golden Reeves
SLMGA Volunteer Hours
2682 West Harvest Lane
West Jordan, Utah 84084
Activity (description of service)
Please mail completed form to:
FFTH
Lbs
**Project: Christmas Box House; FFTH (Fresh From the Heart); Garden Patch; Gilgal Gardens; Pioneer Park; Wasatch Farmers Market;
Tracy Aviary; Utah Aids Foundation; Wheeler Farm; Salt Lake County Fair or Other.
*Category: Admin; CEU (Continuing Education Unit); Diagnostic; Info Booth; Labor; SLMGA Board; Teaching; or Misc
Use the following choices for Category and Project
Total Hours this Sheet:
Total Lbs of Produce Donated:
Date
Check this box if the above information is new?
City: ______________________________ Zip Code: ______________
Address:_________________________________
Email:____________________________________
Phone: ____________________________
Name: ___________________________________
(Reports to Golden Reeves Deadline: October 15, 2012)
Master Gardener Volunteer Hours Report
October 1, 2011 through October 1, 2012