The How to Crochet
Guide.
Starting to Crochet
Holding the hook and
yarn
Everyone has their own
personal way of holding
the hook and controlling
the yarn in crochet. Right
handers hold the hook in
their right hand, usually
as though it were a
pencil, (Fig.79), or in a
firmer overhand grip
(Fig.80). The left hand
holds the work and at
the same time controls
the yarn supply. The left
hand middle finger is
used to manipulate the
yarn, while the index finger
holds onto the work
(Fig.81). To maintain the
slight tension in the yarn
necessary for easy, even
working, it can help to
arrange the yarn around
the fingers of the left hand
as shown in Fig 82.
Left handers Prop the
book up next to a mirror,
so you can see the
illustrations in ‘mirror
image’, while still being
able to read the text from
the original page.
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begin with a loop secured
by a slipknot.
Making a slip knot
Follow instructions given
for ‘Making a Slip Knot’.
Chain stitch (ch)
1. Wrap the yarn over the
hook in an anticlockwise
direction (or hold the yarn
still and manoeuvre the
hook) (Fig.83).
The Basic Stitches
The foundation chain
(or base chain)
Almost all crochet starts
with a foundation (or
base) chain. This is the
equivalent of ‘casting on’
in knitting. The base
chain is a series of chain
stitches, which normally
2. Draw the yarn through
to form a new loop without
tightening up the previous
one (Fig.84).
Note: Unless otherwise
specified, always wrap the
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yarn this way round. To
make a length of base
chain, make as many
chains as required. Keep
shifting your left hand
position up close to the
hook every couple of
stitches or so; this is
easy, if you use a right
hand finger tip to hold
down the loop on the
hook, while you do so.
To count chains correctly
as you make them, do
not count the initial slip
loop as a chain. To count
them afterwards, first
make sure that they are
not twisted and that you
are looking at the ‘front’
(see Figs 85 and 86),
then count back, but
ignore the loop still on
the hook.
Slip stitch (sl st)
1. Insert the hook into 2nd chain from hook,
wrap the yarn over the hook, draw the yarn
through the chain and the loop on the hook in
one movement - 1 sl st made (Fig.87).
2. Repeat this last step
(Fig.88).
Double crochet (dc)
1. Insert the hook into 2nd
chain from hook, wrap the
yarn over the hook and
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draw the yarn through
the chain only (Fig.89).
2. Wrap the yarn again
and draw the yarn
through both loops on
hook (Fig.90) - 1 dc
made (Fig.91).
2. Wrap the yarn over the
hook, draw through the
chain only and wrap the
yarn again (Fig.93).
3. Draw through all 3 loops
on hook - 1 htr made
(Fig.94).
Half treble (htr)
1. Wrap the yarn over
the hook and insert the
hook into 3rd chain from
the hook (Fig.92).
Treble (tr)
1. Wrap the yarn over hook
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and insert hook into 4th
chain from hook (Fig.95).
2. Wrap the yarn over
the hook, draw through
the chain only and wrap
the yarn again (Fig.96).
3. Draw through the first
2 loops only and wrap
the yarn again (Fig.97).
4. Draw through the last
2 loops on the hook - 1
tr made (Fig.98).
Double treble (dtr)
1. Wrap the yarn over the
hook twice and insert hook
into 5th chain from hook
(Fig.99).
2. Wrap the yarn over the
hook, draw through the
chain only and wrap the
yarn again (Fig.100).
3. Draw through the first 2
loops only and wrap the
yarn again (Fig.101).
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4. Draw through the next
2 loops only and wrap
the yarn again (Fig.102).
2. Wrap the yarn over the
hook, draw through the
chain only and wrap the
yarn again (Fig.105).
5. Draw through the last
2 loops on hook - 1 dtr
made (Fig.103).
3. Draw through the first 2
loops only and wrap the
yarn again (Fig.106), then
repeat this last step twice
more (Fig.107).
Triple treble (ttr)
1. Wrap the yarn over
hook 3 times and insert
the hook into 6th chain
from hook (Fig.104).
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6, etc, times over the hook
at the beginning and by
wrapping and drawing
through 2 loops more times
to complete the stitch.
Fastening Off
4. Draw through the last
2 loops on hook - 1 ttr
made (Fig.108).
To fasten off the working
yarn permanently, make
one chain, cut the yarn
about 5 cms away, draw
through the loop and
tighten - this will prevent
unraveling.
With a yarn needle, weave
the tail through the stitches
of the fabric to hide it.
Working in Rounds
Longer Basic Stitches
Longer basic stitches usually called Quadruple
Treble (quad tr),
Quintuple Treble (quin
tr), Sextuple Treble (sext
tr), etc - are made by
wrapping the yarn 4, 5,
1. To work in rounds make
3 or more chains (the exact
number depends on the
design) and join them into
a ring by inserting the hook
into the first of them and
making a slip stitch
(Fig.116).
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the stitches in the previous
round, unless otherwise
directed (Fig.118).
2. To begin each round
make a ‘starting chain’
(the equivalent of a
‘turning chain’ - see
above) to match the
height of the stitches of
the round. Insert the
hook always into the
centre of the base chain
ring to work the stitches
of the first round
(Fig.117).
3. From the second
round insert the hook
under the top 2 loops of
4. When each round is
complete insert the hook
into the top of the starting
chain and make a slipstitch
to join the round (Fig.119).
Note: Unless otherwise
specified, do not turn the
work between rounds, but
continue with the same
side facing and treat this as
the ‘right side’ of the
fabric. To fasten off after
making the slipstitch,
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which completes a
round, do not make
another chain.
1. Cut the yarn and draw
the end through to the
front (Fig.120).
2. Insert the hook again
from the back through
the place in the fabric
where the slip stitch was
worked (but not through
the slip stitch loop itself)
and draw the end of the
yarn once again through
to the back. (Fig.121).
Tighten gently
Most crochet stitch
patterns are made up of
basic stitches. However
different effects can be
created by varying slightly
just one stage in the
standard stitch-making
procedure, for example the
position of the basic stitch
and/or manner of inserting
the hook into the fabric.
There are many variations
and combinations and
these are usually given
with the pattern.
Working under one loop
only
Inserting the hook under
one top loop only, either
the back loop (Fig.122) or
the front loop (Fig.123),
leaves the other loop
exposed as a horizontal
bar. Depending upon which
stitches are picked out in
this way, horizontal ridges
of ‘woven’ effects can be
created. The fabric also
tends to become more
elastic.
Stitch Variations
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stitch to the right. Pull the
yarn through twisting the
hook to face upwards at
the same time (Fig.124).
Corded or Reversed
Double Crochet
Corded double crochet is
used as a decorative
texture or edging. It
consists of working
double crochet stitches in
the ‘wrong’ direction, i.e.
from left to right for
right-handers.
After a right side row
do not turn.
1. Always starting with
the hook facing
downwards insert the
hook back into the next
2. Wrap the yarn and draw
through to finish off the
double crochet normally
(Fig.125).
3. Insert hook ready for
next stitch (Fig.126).
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4. The direction of
working causes the
stitches to twist and
create the decorative
effect (Fig.127)
Tension
Making a tension swatch
is just as important in
crochet as it is in
knitting. The tension is
also specified as a
number of stitches and a
number of rows to a given
measurement, for
example: “20 sts and 22
rows = 10 cms square
measured over double
crochet on 3.50mm hook”.
The hook size suggested is
the one the designer will
have used to work out the
instructions on the basis of
the given tension and the
one most knitters will use
to achieve this tension.
However, it is the tension
that is important and not
the hook size.
Work a tension swatch of
20 sts plus 2 (the 2 end
stitches are slightly
distorted and should not be
included when checking a
tension), and 22 rows in
length. Fasten off. Lay this
swatch down on a flat
surface and measure it first horizontally within first
and last stitch for stitch
tension (Fig.128 - Note:
diagram shows only 5 cms)
and then vertically for row
tension (Fig.129). If your
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square has too few
stitches or rows to the
measurement, your
tension is too loose and
you should try again with
a size smaller hook. If it
has too many stitches try
a size larger hook
In a fabric made of solid,
basic stitches, such as
double crochet (Fig.130) or
treble (Fig.131), increases
are made simply by
working 2 or more stitches
into one stitch at either or
both ends of a row. (Note
that this method of
working several stitches
into the same stitch is also
used to create many
different effects and
instructions are always
given in crochet patterns).
Decreasing
Increasing
.
Decreases are usually
made by working 2 or
more stitches together.
(Note: the same methods
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of working 2 or more
stitches together are
used to create a
multitude of pattern
stitches and these are
always given in crochet
patterns).
Working 2 double
crochet stitches
together (dc2tog)
1. Insert the hook into
next stitch (or as
required), wrap the yarn
round the hook, and
draw a loop through
(Fig.132).
2. Repeat this step into
the next stitch, (3 loops
on hook) (Fig.133).
3. Wrap the yarn and draw
through all 3 loops on hook
- 1 double crochet
decreased (Fig.134).
Working 3 double
crochet stitches
together (dc3tog)
Work as for dc2tog until
there are 3 loops on hook.
1. Insert hook into a third
stitch, wrap the yarn and
draw through a loop, (4
loops on the hook)
(Fig.135).
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2. Wrap the yarn and
draw through all 4 loops
on hook - 2 double
crochet decreased
(Fig.136).
Working 2 treble
stitches together
(tr2tog)
1. Wrap the yarn round
the hook, insert the hook
into the next stitch (or as
required), wrap the yarn,
draw a loop through,
wrap the yarn and draw
through 2 of the loops on
hook (2 loops left on the
hook) (Fig.137).
2. Repeat this step into the
next stitch, (3 loops on the
hook) (Fig.138).
3. Wrap the yarn and draw
through all 3 loops on hook
- 1 treble decreased.
Working 3 treble
stitches together
(tr3tog)
Work as for tr2tog until
there are 3 loops on hook,
repeat step 1 once more,
wrap yarn and draw
through all 4 loops on hook
(Fig.139) - 2 trebles
decreased (Fig.140).
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Buttonholes
Horizontal buttonholes
in crochet are very easily
made by working chains
in place of double
crochet, treble, or
whichever stitch is
involved (Fig.141). On
the next row, double
crochet or treble stitches
are worked as into a
foundation chain
(Fig.142).
Vertical buttonholes are
worked by dividing the
work into two sections at
the position of the
buttonhole and working an
equal number of rows on
each side, then joining up
by working across all
stitches (Fig.143).
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Joining yarns and working
with colour
Joining in a yarn
You will often need to
join a new ball in the
middle of the work, when
the old ball runs out.
Then just as you make
the final ‘yarn over’ to
complete a stitch, simply
drop the old yarn, make
a loop with the new one,
pick this up and draw
through to complete.
Hold down both short
ends temporarily until
you have worked the
next stitch. A knot or
splice is unnecessary. To
‘join in’ yarn because the
pattern has involved
fastening off in one place
and rejoining in another,
or to begin an edging,
insert the hook into the
appropriate place. Loop the
yarn over the hook, draw
through and make 1 chain
(Fig.144). However if you
feel it would be more
secure, make the first loop
with a slip knot as though
for starting a base chain.
If you are making a solid
fabric (double crochet
shown here), lay the new
yarn in advance across the
top of the stitches ahead
and work over it (Fig.145),
and after the change work
over the end of the old
yarn (Fig.146). This saves
later ‘darning in’ time.
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or changing from one yarn
to another for reasons of
colour (treble shown here),
you drop the old colour and
pick up the new one before
you complete the last stitch
in the old colour (Fig.147)
so that the loop on the
hook afterwards is already
in the new colour (Figs 148
and 149).
Changing colour
When you are joining in,
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When you are working
whole rows in different
colours, make the
change during the last
stitch in the row, so the
new colour for the next
row is ready to work the
turning chain
Finishing
Joining motifs
Many household items
such as place mats,
tablecloths, etc. can
consist of several motifs
joined together.
Depending upon their
shape, some motifs
(such as squares,
hexagons, etc.) fit
together exactly. Others
leave interesting spaces,
which may be joined along
the edges that touch by
sewing or crochet. There
are many ways of joining
such motifs and these will
depend on the finished
effect required and
instructions are usually
given with patterns.
Joining seams
Pieces of crochet can be
joined together by a flat
stitch (Fig.150)
(backstitching would make
the seam very thick and
unsightly), or by mattress
stitching (Fig.151).
Crochet stitches sometimes
have no particular ‘right
side’, therefore you should
make a decision in respect
of all separate pieces of the
same article, so that the
‘grain’ of the rows can
match exactly when you
join the pieces together.
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Filet Crochet
Filet crochet should also
be mentioned here as it
is an ‘art’ in itself and
most popular in Southern
Europe, where women,
young and old, sit on
their doorstep and create
the most beautiful table
cloths, bedspreads and
even curtains in the finest
cotton!
Filet crochet is based on a
simple network with a
regular square grid usually
made of treble and chain
stitches. Pattern
instructions are usually
presented in the form of
squared charts,
representing a view of the
finished fabric, in which the
vertical lines represent
treble stitches and the
horizontal ones (top of the
rows) chain stitches.
Designs of all kinds are
created by ‘filling in’ some
of the squares (or ‘spaces’)
with treble stitches instead
of chains (Figs 152 and
153).
These charts are ‘read’ in
the same general way as
fairisle charts, that is
working from the bottom
upwards and to and fro,
and a key is always given
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showing you what each
square represents.
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