How To Build A Fur Face By Steve Daniels, President, Small Bear Electronics LLC What Is The Fur Face? The Fur Face is a clone of the Fuzz Face. It uses inexpensive, easily-obtainable silicon transistors, but it includes provision for properly matching the devices to ensure smooth clipping. It also has many features that were lacking in the original pedal, like a DC power jack, true-bypass switching, a tone stack and an in-use LED. This manual contains complete instructions for building the pedal, and it is written to guide people who have never built a pedal before. (Experienced hobbyists note: You can skip sections as you need to.) I don't presume that you know any electronics, but you do need some skill with hand tools and I don't cover in here how to solder; more about these issues in the next section. That said, much of the information and many of the techniques shown here are applicable to building lots of other pedals, and even other electronic devices. I know that you'll enjoy building--and playing through!--the Fur Face. While I've done my best to make these instructions complete, I'm available by E- mail if you have questions, problems or suggestions. Yours In Good Music, Small Bear Electronics LLC 123 Seventh Avenue # 156 Brooklyn, NY 11215 Http://www.smallbearelec.com [email protected] Can I Really Build It Myself? Yes, IF: • You can follow directions. • You are comfortable with using basic hand tools. • You can solder well. The kit includes a precision-drilled enclosure that reduces the tooling needed by more than 90%. I will show you in this manual, step-by-step, the assembly, painting and decalapplication procedures that I used. If you have never soldered before, you may need to check out some how-to information on-line about that, and maybe practice a little before tackling this kit. Which brings me to: What Tools And Materials Will I Need? You don’t need a drill. However, installing the battery drawer is much easier if you have a Dremel, or similar, rotary tool, or have access to one that you can borrow. You will also need: A 25- to 35-watt soldering iron, rosin-core solder, cleaning sponge and de-soldering braid. NB: Yes, a Radio Shack iron will do, if the tip is relatively new and well-tinned. The big problem with very inexpensive irons is that the tips aren’t properly clad and so corrode quickly. Small screwdriver Small chain-nose plier and side-cutter Small locking- grip ("Vise-grip") plier X-acto or similar knife Self- locking tweezers or other "third hand" A small round file and small flat file A pointed steel "pick" or scratch awl A Sharpie Marker The case is drilled, but not painted, so you will need materials for finishing— carborundum paper, spray primer, spray enamel and Acetone. Sealing the decal (included in the kit) requires a clear, spray lacquer like Krylon. You will also need some epoxy cement for attaching mounting studs and the battery drawer to the enclosure. • Identify The Components 5% Tolerance Carbon Film Resistors The values are in Ohms. The first two colored bands define the base number. The third band is the number of zeroes to add, and the gold fourth band indicates 5% tolerance. Value How Many? 1,000,000 ohm or 1 Megohm (Brown, Black, Green, Gold) 1 1 0 + 5 zeros 33,000 ohm (or 33 K ohm) (Orange, Orange, Orange, Gold) 1 330 ohm (Orange, Orange, Brown, Gold) 1 100,000 (or 100 K ohm) (Brown, Black, Yellow, Gold) 1 8,200 ohm (or 8.2 K ohm) (Gray, Red, Red, Gold) May vary with the transistors supplied. See text 1 2,200 ohm (or 2.2 K ohm) (Red, Red, Red, Gold) 1 6,800 ohm (or 6.8 K ohm) (Blue, Gray, Red, Gold) 2 3,900 ohm (or 3.9 K ohm) (Orange, White, Red, Gold) 1 100,000,000 or 100 Megohm (Brown, Black, Violet, Gold) 1 Potentiometers This style has pins that solder directly to the PC board. Quantity 1K Reverse Audio 20K W 50K Audio 1 1 1 Marked C1K W20K A50K Capacitors Metallized Polyester Film (Have no polarity) 150 pf. .01 mf. (microfarad or µf.) .022 mf. .039 mf. .47 mf. Quantity 1 Marked 151 1 1 1 1 103 223 393 474 Radial Electrolytic (These are polarized; the black band marks the negative side.) Quantity 2.2 mf. 47 mf. 1 1 Axial Electrolytic (Also polarized; the grooved side is positive.) Quantity 22 mf. 1 Transistors Two of the transistors come in a plastic case called TO-92 style. The flat side of the case will be oriented according to the photo of the PC board. The designations of the leads are shown for reference. Quantity 2N4123 MPSA14 1 1 Leads Left-To-Right Emitter, Base, Collector Emitter, Base, Collector The 2N2222A transistor is in a metal TO-18 case, and the legend on the PC board indicates where the tab on the case must be positioned. Diodes The band on the case indicates how they should be oriented on the PC board. Quantity 1N5818 1N4732 1 1 LED The longer lead marks the positive side. Jacks DC Power Stomp Switch Transistor Sockets Single-In-Line Socket Other Items 9-Volt Battery Snap Enclosure Battery Drawer Rubber Feet PC Board Mounting Hardware Knobs Decal Hookup Wire If you have all the parts and materials, the first construction step is adding mounting studs for the PC board. Securing The PC Board To The Enclosure There are a number of ways to do this and a variety of hardware arrangements that will work. The PC board- mounted potentiometers in this design provide major support for the board, but for “belt-and-suspenders” stability we’ll attach a couple of metal studs to the floor of the enclosure. Each potentiometer has a metal “anti-rotation” tab that should be removed by snapping off with a side-cutter. Remove the nuts and washers and install the pots temporarily in their appropriate holes in the board. No soldering yet! A 4-40 screw, two flat washers and a threaded stud go in each of the two holes at the bottom of the pic. The washers are there as shims to precisely set the height of the board. Secure the studs finger-tight. Set the board in place in the enclosure, and install the nuts and washers on the pots finger-tight. Using a steel pick or awl, scratch on the enclosure the outline of where the studs will sit. Remove the board assembly. With a small piece of 220-grit sandpaper or carborundum paper, scrub the area that you marked for each stud so that it’s shiny. As long as you clean the area where the marks are, it’s no problem if you go a little outside. Using Q-Tips wetted with Acetone, carefully clean up the sanded areas. Swab each stud similarly. Mix a small volume of J-B Weld or similar epoxy cement and use a toothpick or icecream stick to apply a small amount to the bottom and sides of each stud. You don’t have to use much right now; you’ll be able to add more later once the positions of the studs are set. Carefully, slip the board into place and secure by installing the nut and washer on the middle potentiometer finger-tight. It is OK to use your stick to spread the epoxy a little now that the studs are in position. Give the cement a few hours to cure. When the epoxy has fully cured, remove the screws. Mix a small batch and beef up the areas around the sides of the studs. Then mix one more batch and cement the washers to the PC board as shown. A toothpick makes a good tool for applying a small amount of cement all around the holes. Then use a clean toothpick for positioning and centering the washers. When the epoxy holding the first two washers has set, mix a little more and cement a second washer on top of the first on each side. Mounting The Battery Drawer Note: If, after reading this section, you decide that installing the battery drawer is more tooling than you want to do, ask us to exchange the tooled back-plate for a blank one. We will send you that with a spring- type battery clip that can be attached with epoxy. The battery drawer has flanges on each end that will snap into place, but they need to be cut down slightly to accommodate the thickness of the enclosure. The best tool for doing this is a Dremel handpiece with a cutoff wheel, though I have managed it with a flat needle file. If you use the Dremel, remember that abrasive cutoff wheels are both very useful, and inherently dangerous! In normal use, they throw off particles of metal and abrasive. When they break, and they do, the pieces fly like bullets. You MUST wear eye protection and a dust mask when using them. The front and rear sides have ridges that are meant to keep the drawer in position horizontally. Grind down the two in the front using a small file or a Dremel grinding wheel. Press the drawer part way into place and use a Sharpie to mark the positions of the ridges. Then grind notches for them with a needle file or Dremel cutter. A little at a time is best, because you want to make room for the ridges without letting the notches show past the outside edge of the drawer on top. This picture shows the result. The drawer is in straight, and the cutout does not show. There is some play up and down, but we will be able to cure that during final assembly with a couple drops of epoxy. Remove the battery drawer for now by squeezing the locking tabs inward and pushing the assembly out; we are ready to paint the enc losure and apply the decal. Painting and Decorating If you are not comfortable with painting the enclosure yourself, you might want to ask the assistance of someone who has this kind of experience…maybe an art student, or someone who has done auto body paint—it is actually a similar process. The first job is to smooth and polish the surface of the enclosure by wet-sanding with progressively finer grits of Carborundum paper. Grits up to 2000 are available on my Stock List, or most hardware stores carry up to 600. You can make a sanding block by stapling Carborundum paper to a small block of soft wood, or get a commercial sanding block like the one shown in the pics. It accepts a standard-size sheet, fits an average hand easily and doesn’t need staples to grip the material. Set yourself up as shown with a small tray of water and 220 grit paper in the block. This process is hell on hands, so I keep a box of disposable rubber surgical gloves in the Cave. Wet both the paper and the surface of the box. Sand each surface of the enclosure, working back-and- forth, in the long direction—Don’t scour. Dunk the box every so often to keep it wet. As the abrasive begins to really smooth the surface, it will start to feel a little slippery. Periodically, give the box a thorough washing and dry it to check your progress. There will still be fine scratches at 220 grit; you want to get All the larger scratches out and have an even finish all over. At some point, take a small piece of the 220 grit paper in your hands and go over the whole surface evenly, but pay special attention to the rounded edges and corners. When you are satisfied with the finish at 220 grit, refill your tray with clean water, charge your block with 400 grit material, and repeat the whole process. Continue through 600 grit. In my experience, a 600- grit finish will do nicely for putting down a primer and then a coat of spray enamel. Repeat the sanding process on the cover of the enclosure A suggestion: There is nothing worse than having to sand out a ding, especially after you have put several hours into creating a nice finish. Whenever you are moving around the shop with your piece, do so slowly, and be aware of where you are going. Before you prime or paint, clean the pieces as if they were going into an operating room. Wash them Very thoroughly with running water and do a careful wipe with a soft cloth wetted with Acetone. Acetone is flammable! Follow the precautions on the can! Getting primer and paint to adhere to metal can seem like a black art. It can be done in a home shop if you are very careful about preparing the surface and avoiding dust and humidity. Apply a light coat of a self-etching primer (from an auto- or marine-supply store), following the directions on the can, and let the pieces dry overnight. Here’s the enclosure after priming and before painting. I have it propped up on a “lazy-susan” that I bought for a few bucks in a hardware store—lets me rotate the piece easily without touching. I keep a hair dryer around the shop; before applying paint, I play it over the surface for a minute or two at medium heat. In my experience, warming the surface helps prevent voids. Some references recommend baking the piece (in a toaster oven) for about an hour at 150 to 170 degrees. In my experience, this is optional. Repeat the cleaning, priming and painting process on the cover of the enclosure. The decal that comes with your kit was printed on an ordinary inkjet printer to “waterslide-release” decal stock and then sprayed with clear lacquer to protect the image. Cut the decal to size with a sharp scissor. Set up a small dish with some warm water. Place the decal in the water, and hold it under gently with your fingers. Within a minute, you will start to feel the decal film slide away from its backing. At that point, remove the decal from the water, position it on the surface of the box, and carefully slide the backing paper out from under the decal film. While the film is wet, you have some control of its exact position. Position the face of the decal so that it is square and centered, and press the sides downward. Blot the three surfaces firmly and thoroughly with a paper towel. You want to squeeze out All of the water and get rid of air bubbles. When done, let the decal set for several ho urs. To protect the design, spray with clear Krylon or automotive clear coat. Spray a very light first coat, and give that a couple of minutes to get tacky before putting down additional coats. Apply a coat of clear Krylon to the cover of the enclosure. With an X-acto knife, carefully trim away the remains of the decal film that covered the holes for the pots, stomp switch, LED and jacks. Install the battery drawer on the cover and secure it in place with a few beads of epoxy cement. The enclosure is finished, and you are ready to assemble the PC board Stuffing The Board That’s what we call the process of mounting components on the printed circuit board (PC board) and soldering them in place. While the order in which the parts are mounted won’t affect the audible result, it’s convenient to mount small parts first and finish with the pots. Heat up and tin your soldering iron, wet your cleaning sponge and let's begin, starting with the resistors. Find resistor R1 (1 Meg = Brown, Black, Green, Gold) Using a chain-nose plier, grab one lead of the resistor about 1/16” from the body. Bend the resistor lead sharply downward at right angles to the body of the component. Then do the same with the other lead: Look for the silkscreened legend “R1” on the PC Board, and insert the resistor into the appropriate holes. (Resistors have no polarity and can go in either way.) While holding the resistor in place, cut off all but about 3/32” of the leads and bend flush to the board. Solder in place. Bending the ends of the resistor leads flush to the board is very important in this build, because the solder side of the board mounts directly over the cans of the potentiometers; keeping the lead profile low will avoid short circuits. The next four resistors, R2, R3, R4 and R5 are the ones that set the bias of the transistors. Getting a Fuzz Face to sound “right” is a matter setting the values of these resistors appropriately for the gains of the transistors. This is pretty easy with silicon devices, because the gain of a particular type number will be fairly consistent across a lot. We sort and match parts so that only one resistor, R4, needs to be selected specifically. The devices you receive with the kit will indicate the required value, and it will be bagged with the transistors. The values and color codes of the bias resistors are: R2 (33K = Orange, Orange, Orange, Gold) R3 (330 Ohms = Orange, Orange, Brown, Gold) R4 (Per Device – Nominally 8.2K, Typical Range 3.3K to 10K) R5 (100K = Brown, Black, Brown, Gold) We guarantee correct biasing using the resistor values specified and the transistors supplied with the kit. For the spec, see Tweaking Performance and FAQs at the end of this manual. We know that many builders will want to adjust this to taste, so the kit includes a 5-pin length of single- in-line socket material. This allows plugging in any desired resistor for R4. If you are using germanium devices, you may need sockets for the other three bias resistors. To cut single- in-line socket material to length, score about a dozen times in the groove between the pins with an X-acto or similar knife and then snap off at the score line. Then remove each of the middle pins by holding a soldering to the bottom of the pin and pressing gently till the pin falls out. The rest of the resistors are: R7 (2.2K = Brown, Gray, Yellow, Gold) R8 (6.8K = Blue, Gray, Red, Gold) R10 (6.8K = Blue, Gray, Red, Gold) R12 (100 Meg = Brown, Black, Violet, Gold) R13 (3.9K = Orange, White, Red, Gold) All of these can be soldered in permanently. Here is the board with all of the resistors soldered in except for R4, which is replaced with a length of single- in- line socket material. Capacitors come next. Start with C3, a 22 mf. electrolytic. This one is axial mount; the side with the groove is positive and the arrow on the case points negative. Note its position in the pic and be sure to insert it correctly. Press its body close to the board and trim the leads down to about 3/32”. Bend the leads flush and solder. Follow with C1 and C2. These are radial electrolytics, 47 mf. and 2.2 mf. respectively. The black band on the side of the case marks negative and the silkscreened legend on the board marks positive. The rest of the capacitors are polyester film types; they have no polarity. Take care to get the right values in the right positions. The designations and the values are: C4 – 150 pf. (Code 151) C5 - .47 mf. (Code 474) C6 - .01 mf. (Code 103) C7 - .022 mf. (Code 223) C8 - .039 mf. (Code 393) Here’s a look at the board to this point: OK, Diodes. D1 is for reverse-polarity protection, and the legend on the board will show you which way to orient it. The bar side of D2 faces resistor R13. Add transistor Q3. The legend on the board indicates which way the flat side of the case should face. Add transistors Q1 and Q2. If you are using the devices that come with the kit, transistor sockets are not mandatory; silicon devices can tolerate normal soldering heat. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the flat side of Q1 and the tab on the can of Q2. Knowing that many people would want to try a variety of devices, I laid out the board so that it can accommodate transistor sockets if you want to add them. When soldering the sockets in place, take care to place them parallel to the board. A tip for doing this: Hold the component in place with self- locking tweezers. Solder one pin in place, and then check the orientation. If the socket isn’t parallel with the surface of the board, you can now grip the board carefully in your fingers, re-heat the joint and hold the socket in its proper orientation while the solder cools. Then solder the other pins. Use a small piece of tape to hold the DC power jack in place. It must sit flush to the board with its front edge parallel to the edge of the board. On the solder side, loop a small piece of bare wire through the front contact and solder the contact to the trace of the board. Clip the excess wire when done. The contact immediately to the rear should be bent forward a little to avoid a possible short later with the can of one of the pots. Then loop a small piece of bare wire through the contact and solder the contact to its trace. The contact to the left will receive the positive battery lead during final assembly, so leave it unsoldered for now. Before soldering the pots in place, add the wires for the signal input to the board and LED control; their pads are under the cans of the pots, and it would be hard to make the connections later. The right-hand pic shows where we are. Install the pots one at a time, taking care to get the right value in the right position. In the left hand pic, R6, the C1K, is on the right and R9, W20K, in the center. Suggestions: • Be sure that the contacts are flush to the board, as the height of the contacts sets the height of the board in the case during final assembly. • Insert an ice-cream stick or other support under the can of the pot to hold it parallel to the board. • Don’t just solder the contact of the pot to the trace; use the soldering tweezers to hold a short piece of bare wire in place as shown, and then solder. Now bend the wire around to the back of the contact, bend again so that it follows the direction of the PC board trace, and then solder again. Why? These board- mounted pots make the final assembly and testing much easier, but the contacts can be the source of some funky intermittent connections. Installing this way prevents problems later. Use the same technique on the two outside contacts of R9, and the left-side contact of R11. Two jumper wires are needed on the top of the board. Loop a short piece of bare wire around the center contact of the tone pot. Solder in place, make a right-angle bend in it, and run it to the left-side contact of the level pot. Loop there and solder. The other jumper wire runs from the pad in between R2 and R3 to a pad near the bottom of the board. The next step is to set the vertical position of the LED in the enclosure. You are at a delicate stage, because you have put a lot of work into finishing the case. Slips, falls and mistakes with tools can ruin the finish and cause you grief, so stay focused and work patiently. Set up a towel or soft cloth on your bench to protect the face of the enclosure while you work. Slip the LED into its holes on the board, but don’t solder yet. Pay attention to polarity; the shorter lead should face R13, the 3.9K resistor. Set the board in place in the enclosure and finger-tighten the hardware on the center (tone) pot. Screw the board gently down to the studs. Push/maneuver the LED down so that it is in its hole with its flange flush to the enclosure. Turn the case over carefully, and note how much the LED protrudes with the flange bottomed. Decide how much you want the LED to protrude, and set this by putting right-angle bends in the leads as shown in the right-hand pic. Disassemble, solder the LED to its traces and clip the excess lead lengths. OK, now for the final connections to the board: • • • • A 6-inch lead to the middle contact of the level pot, soldered on the top of the board. This is the green wire in the pic. The battery snap is wired to the DC power jack. Be sure to wrap the positive lead around the contact of the jack before soldering. A 6-inch black lead from the pad below the negative battery snap lead. A ground lead (also black in the pic, on the left). The board is done and you are ready to assemble your pedal. Final Assembly and Testing Install the board in the enclosure with the nuts on the pots finger-tight and the screws gently screwed down. Install the jacks and the stomp switch as shown, also with their hardware finger-tight. Take care to get the mono and stereo jacks on their correct sides and the beveled edges on the jacks where they belong. Solder a black lead to the sleeve of the output jack. Run this to the sleeve of the input jack, but don’t solder yet. Add the ground lead from the board to this connection, and then solder. Route the black lead from the DC power jack to the left and then downward. Solder to the ring contact of the input jack. Wiring the switch contacts invariably confuses a lot of people, so let’s do it “by the numbers”: When you have finished the wiring, install the recommended resistor value for R4. Connect a battery, your guitar and an amplifier. Click the stomp switch…does the LED go on and off? Try out the controls. If it sounds like a Fuzz Face, CONGRATULATIONS! Before you continue, connect a power supply and make sure that everything still works with/without a battery. Final steps: Secure hardware, screw knobs in place, attach rubber feet to the base. Slice one in half with an X-acto knife to get the half- width pieces for the battery drawer end. Troubleshooting Time to break out the multimeter and figure out where the problems are. Here are the measured transistor voltages in the build you see here: Collector Base Q1 1.56 .65 Q2 4.89 1.56 Emitter 0 .93 YMMV depending on transistor gains, but any serious differences are a sure indication that something is not right. Here is an “X-Ray” view of the board: Check everything against this layout and the pics. Use the continuity scale of your meter to make sure that everything that should be connected really is. This being essentially a Fuzz Face, there are myriads out there who have built it and can help you debug a build. The Forum at diystompboxes.com is an amazing resource for this. If you bought the full kit, I will help you debug by e- mail. Write to: [email protected] Tweaking Performance And FAQs As I noted earlier, we selected the value of R4 to put the voltage on the Collector of the device we supply for Q2 at 4.5 volts +/- .25 volts. If you are using different devices or just want to experiment, here is what to do. Set up the pedal as shown with a plug in the input and battery or power supply connected. Ground the negative side of the meter. Measure the voltage at the point shown. Raising the value of R4 will bring it down, and vice-versa. When I first tested this example, R4 was 3.9K. Raising it to 4.3K brought the voltage down to 4.6. What If I Want A Higher/Lower Gain Device For Q1/Q2? No problem! We supply a 2N4123 for Q1 and a 2N2222A for Q2 because these types are available, known to work well and in the middle of the desirable gain buckets for the Fuzz Face. But numerous other silicon devices that will work in your pedal are cheap and readily available--maybe even at the local Radio Shack, or check the Small Bear Stock List. Devices that I know other people have used are the 2N2369, 2N3440, 2N3904, 2N4401, BC108 and BD139. I measured The Gains Of The Devices On My Multimeter. How Come They Are Higher/Lower Than The Figures You Specified ? The chip that runs your meter contains an algorithm to figure gain, and that may be different from the “Bare Bones” calculation that we use. We measure the gains at room temp with 9 volts collector to emitter and 9 microamps into the Base. Can I Use Germanium Devices? Sure, with a couple of caveats. First, I purposely did this design with cheap, readily available NPN silicon devices so tha t anyone could build it and it would play gracefully on a board with other negative-ground pedals. No separate power supply is required. NPN germanium is available, but a pair that hits reasonable gain buckets and is not too leaky will cost considerable $$. It's not a conspiracy; for reasons stemming from what was technically feasible in 1960s and ‘70s transistor factories, low- leakage NPN germanium is relatively scarce. See my Stock List if you are interested. If you troll E-Bay for devices, get some assurance from the seller that you will be able to return unsoldered devices that are hissy or excessively leaky. I do not recommend attempting to use PNP germanium for a negative-ground build, and I will not offer technical support for such; too many reported problems with intractable motorboating noise. The other thing I suggest is using socket-pin material for all four bias resistors. Germanium varies so much in gain and leakage, and is so temperature-sensitive, that you may need more control than just adjusting one resistor will give you. But I Only Have PNP Devices and Can’t Afford/Can’t Find NPN… It is possible to do a positive- ground build using the Fur Face board. You have to reverse All polarities and ignore the legends for the electrolytic caps, diodes and LED. The LED driver transistor should be an MPSA64. If I can make time, I will actually do this build and document it. Can I Do Anything To Improve Temp Stability In An All-germanium build? I don’t know of any perfect solution. A reverse-biased germanium diode from the Base of Q1 to ground does help, and some people substitute a 10K pot or trimmer for R4. What About Si/Ge Hybrids? I have tried an NPN germanium device with a gain around 110 for Q2. I swapped it in without even touching the bias and it worked well right off the rip. Nice mix of germanium smooth clipping with a little extra “bite,” and more temp stable than straight germanium. What About Other Mods? Rather than hack up a hand-made pedal, get a solderless breadboard and set up what you want to try on there. Then, if you come up with something that you want to change, you’ll know what you are doing. Reference Information Here is the schematic: A parts list follows. Quantity Description SBE Stock List SKU 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 Resistors - All 1/4-watt 5% Carbon Film 1 Meg 330 ohms Selected For R4 100K 33K 6.8K 2.2K 3.9K 100 Meg 1 1 1 Potentiometers and Trimmers 1K Reverse Audio 20K W 50K Audio 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Capacitors 47 mf. 16 Volt Radial Electrolytic 2.2 mf. 16 Volt Radial Electrolytic 22 mf. 16 Volt Axial Electrolytic 150 pf. Polyester Film .01 mf. 50 Volt Polyester Film .022 mf. 50 Volt Polyester Film .039 mf. 50 Vo lt Polyester Film .47 mf. 50 Volt Polyester Film 1 1 1 1 1 1 Transistors and Diodes 2N2222A 2N4123 MPSA14 LED 5mm High-Brightness Red or Blue 1N5818 1N4732A 2000 2008 2025 2302 2215A 2211 Wire Bare Tinned Copper Wire , #22 or #24 Insulated Pre -Bond Wire #24, Colors 0509 0508 Jacks, Fittings, Hardware Mono Jack, Switchcraft #111 Stereo Jack, Switchcraft #112B 0603 0604 1 1 0900, 0901, etc. 1011 1011 1011 1404 1400 1100 1101B or 1150 1105 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 1 1 1 Transistor Sockets 5-Pin Single-In-Line Socket Strip 9-Volt Battery Snap DC Power Jack Battery Drawer Stomp Switch 3/8” Tall 4-40 .187” O.D. Aluminum Studs 4-40 x ¼” Screws Knobs Rubber Feet Printed Circuit Board Enclosure Decal 0707 0706 0619 0611C 0614A 0203 8007 8003 0825B or similar 0314