How to change the suspension on a 2006/2007 MKV VW GTI or Jetta GLI. The procedures outlined should be the same for GTI-Golf-Rabbit on the same platform, but in this example we used a 2006 GLI with Neuspeed springs on the stock GLI shocks. Most people will want to change out the struts and shocks, but overall, the ride is not bad with this setup. Ooops, we spoke too soon, several weeks later, and it's starting to bounce over the little bumps! Start by removing the center cap for the front wheels. Loosen the axle bolt with a 27mm socket. Then loosen the lug nuts slightly. Jack up both sides and then remove the road wheels. Page 1 of 12 Let's start by removing the sway bar endlink that is attached to the strut. This is an 18mm nut. Push the swaybar out of the way of everything. Page 2 of 12 If the car you are doing is HID equipped, undo the connector to the leveler arm with a 10mm socket. You might need a small pliar to hold the back side while you remove the nut. Page 3 of 12 The pinch bolt for the strut comes out next. Use a 14mm Triple Square socket (NOT a torx!) and a 18mm socket to remove the pinch bolt. After that, at the end and bottom of the lower control arm, there are 3 16mm nuts that hold the ball joint on. Remove them and separate the balljoint mount from the lower control arm. Page 4 of 12 Knock the axle out of the hub very carefully. Do not tap any splines inside the hub or deform the end of the axle. Page 5 of 12 Use a strut spreader tool to expand the lower hub. The tool can be sourced from Metalnerd. Wiggle things a bit to get them in alignment, the hub should drop down until it is free from the strut. Page 6 of 12 Pull out the rubber strip for the upper plastic cover. You can pull the cover up enough to get a basic socket on it. In this case, a short 13mm. Undo all 3 bolts, and the strut will come out. Reach down and hold it on the last bolt or have a friend hold it. After that, the strut/spring assembly should come right out. Page 7 of 12 Page 8 of 12 Compress the springs and use a 21mm socket on an impact gun. Remove the top bolt and the assembly will come apart. Cut down your bump stops and assemble the new assembly. Page 9 of 12 Reassembly is just the reverse of all of this. We did the driver's side first. The axle absolutely had to come out. On the passenger side, we only had to remove it about 1/2 way. The driver's side is most definately the hardest side to do! If you can get past that point, you have it made! Page 10 of 12 Rears - The rears are pretty straight forward. Jack up the car, remove the wheels. Remove the two top shock bolts. Watch for the HID leveler if equipped, undo the little arm. Then just undo the bolt at the end of the control arm. Careful, the suspension will snap to the ground as it's under pressure. Remove and replace the springs. Some cars, the rear bumpstop will hit. You may want to trim them down, or leave them out. Contact your spring or shock reseller for more details. Page 11 of 12 After installation, let things settle. I recommend 200-300 miles. Then get an alignment. Even if things feel straight, your toe will go out and cause uneven tire wear. You may also have to adjust your HID's using a Vag-com to set the baseline. The hid levelers may need to have their brackets bent, too. Page 12 of 12