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How to Tailor a Jacket with Vilene®
Burda Pattern #106 issue 3/2002
Recom m ended for Advanced Sewing Skills
Fabric
150 cm wide, 2.0 m Wool 95% Elastane 5%
112 cm wide stretch silk lining, 2.0 m
Vilene®
EE6635 - 90 cm wide, industrial (sim ilar to H410) 2.0 m
Edge Tape
Bias/Stay Tape
Sleeve heads - 2 Lambswool strips
Iron Shoe
Teflon Iron board cover
(Used to fuse the Vilene® , m y m ethod, not
m anufacturer recom m ended m ethod).
All products available to purchase from Dragana
Edwards
Order Form on Products page.
Buttons
3 large for front opening
4 sm aller for sleeves - (variation to pattern)
Shoulder
Pads - m edium
Note
Jacket altered to have a back split
The jacket is 30.5 cm below the
waist.
In order to wear the jacket with
com fort, I recom m end an opening
“fold over split” in back seam.
Tip
Read through all the instructions before
starting on project.
Be fam iliar with the order, prepare well
and you will be m ore efficient at sewing
up your garm ent.
Adjustm ents to Pattern - Fabric Pieces
Pieces
5.
Front Facing - extend the facing to the arm hole edge. Drop about 10 cm from shoulder.
Shape into existing piece as shown.
6.
Back Facing - original pattern - not required.
3.
Use Back Piece to trace a new back facing. Drop about 10 cm from back neck and draw line
straight across.
This type of facing gives the shoulders m ore support.
3.
Add on for a back split. Extend 8 cm from Center Back and length is 20cm from hem line.
3.
Place pieces 3. Center Back(CB) and 4. Side Back(SB) together and trace the back stay(to be
cut from Vilene® ) - as one piece, no seam on princess line.
Drop 20cm from back neck on CB and sweep down to under arm hole to side seam , dropping
about 4 cm from arm hole.
Adjustm ent to Lining Pieces
Follow instructions for lining as per Burda with following adjustm ent:
•
Trace Lining from Front Piece 1 - after the adjustm ent for the Front facing.
•
Trace Lining from Back Piece 3 - less the back facing and allow a 2 cm ease pleat down
center back. No back split allowance, taper pleat into seam allowance.
•
Hem allowances - 2.5 cm or 1.5cm less than the jacket hem allowance, for overhang.
•
Sleeve Linings - less the am ount of facings - however allow 1.5 cm extra in length.
Seam s and Hem allowances
•
•
•
•
Shoulders, Side and Center Back seam s, Sleeves (not head & hem ) = 1.5 cm
Princess lines, Arm holes, Neck, Collar, Sleeve Head & Hem line, Center Front = 1.0 cm
Hem - Jacket = 4.0 cm
Facings=1.0 cm , except shoulders (1.5cm )
Interfacing
Using the Iron Shoe and Teflon Ironing Board Cover, fuse pieces as below. Iron is on m axim um heat and
steam. This is m y m ethod.
(Please refer to Vilene® for m anufacturer recom m ended m ethod).
Test a scrap piece of fabric - press for 6 to 8 seconds. Check to see the result. If interfacing appears to
have holes - these are burns - reduce the pressing tim e. If interfacing has not fused, increase the
pressing tim e.
Before you cut any fabric pieces, iron on Vilene® enough to cover the fabric and cut Center Front(CF),
Front Facing and Side Front (SF)pieces. This is called “Blocking” - ideal for fabrics that m ay shrink
further when iron-on interfacing is applied.
Proceed to cut rem ainder of pieces - fabric only - no fusing. Back Stay, Sleeve & Jacket hem s w ill be
fused later.
Let’s begin sewing
Front
1.
Center Front(CF) and Side Front
Blocked
Mark dart on CF and sew
Sew SF princess line seam
Fuse Edge Tape on shoulder seam
2.
Cut through m iddle of CF dart, press open.
Press SF princess line open
Fuse a sm all triangle scrap of Vilene® on
bottom of CF dart - this fills in the hollow
and prevents a pucker on the outside.
1.
(SF)
Back
2.
3. & 4.
3.
Fuse strips of EE6635
Hem - 6cm wide by Center Back (CB) and
Side Back (SB) length
Split - 10cm wide x length of split
Refer to picture. The arrows are the
direction of the re-inforced threads in the
EE6635.
4.
Sew CB and SB princess line. Press seam
open.
Pink the edges of the Back Stay - this
elim inates dem arkation on the right
side.
Fuse Back Stay over both pieces.
Fuse Edge Tape onto shoulders
Sew CB seam - long stitch split about 1.5cm
below start to hem line (to be unpicked
later).
Press CB seam and Split allowance open.
Side seams and collar
5.
Re-inforce corner of shoulder and collar.
Use standard stitch length. Pivot on point.
To ensure that you pivot on the correct
point - chalk/m ark to the point using
pattern as guide.
5.
6.
Sew side seam s, press open.
Fuse Bias/Stay Tape to arm hole. Ensure
that the cotton tape is on the body part of
jacket. NOT on the edge of arm hole.
Bias/Stay Tape prevents the arm hole from
stretching.
Sew CB seam of collar, press open.
Clip re-inforced corners.
6.
7.
Ease back shoulder seam.
Pin collar and front shoulders to back neck
and back shoulders, m atching CB seam of
collar and jacket.
7.
8.(a) Sew across from one shoulder/arm hole
edge, pivoting on re-inforced corners to the
other shoulder/arm hole edge.
8. (a)
8.(b) Press seams open. Clip neck seam
8. (b)
Sleeves
9.
Fuse sleeve head - cut a crescent shape
about 6 cm wide from the shoulder point
and tapering into sides - see picture.
Pink the edges - to avoid dem arkation on
the right side.
Fuse sleeve hem edge - use sleeve facings
to cut sam e shape. Pink the edges.
Sew outer sleeve seam up to the m arking
for vent. Press open.
Sew inner sleeve seam . Press open.
9.
10.
10.
Ease sleeve head.
Insert sleeve into arm hole, m atching
shoulder and underarm m arkings. Stitch.
11.
Sew in Lam bswool strips.
Fold long edge about 1.5 cm down.
Position the strips so that there is slightly
m ore length to the front of the arm hole.
Sew into inserted sleeve, m atching to seam
edges and stitch along previous stitching.
11.
Pockets and Flaps
12.
12.
Use pattern to m ark the pocket and flap
placem ent.
13. (a) Line all pocket pieces. Apply fusing to self
facing ( top edge of pocket). Turn and
overlock all the pocket edges, no need to
turn out.
13. (a)
Cut a cardboard tem plate of the pocket
piece, no seam allowance, place on the
finished pocket and press the seam
allowances inwards.
13. (b)
13. (b)
Place all pocket pieces on their respective
placement lines. Use a zig-zag stitch to
secure into place. The zig-zag stitch
should just touch the edges of pocket.
13. (c)
Using a standard zipper foot, pull pocket
out of the way and stitch around inside of
pocket on pressed seam allowance.
You will have to stop m idway and start
from other top end to com plete sewing.
13. (c)
14.
Stitch fabric and lining flap, right with right
side. Leave top edge open.
Trim seam allowance to a m inim um ,
turn and press. If possible try to
understitch, this will keep the lining under.
Overlock top edge. Place finished flap on
placem ent line, right side against
jacket, stitch in place. Press flap down over
pocket. Secure ends of flap with a sm all
satin stitch. Com plete all pockets and
flaps.
14.
15.
Re-inforce corner of CF.
To ensure that you pivot on the correct
point - chalk/m ark to the point using
pattern as guide. Clip into corner.
Apply Edge Tape to CF and Collar edge.
This will prevent the jacket from stretching
in this well used area.
15.
This com pletes the outer jacket - we will now
sew the facings and lining pieces.
Please refer to Jacket Tailoring - Part 2
Page 7