Download Report

Garden Workshop Fall Edibles – How to plant your Thanksgiving garden © 2010 Home Grown Edible Landscapes ReproducAon in whole or in part is prohibited without the expressed wriCen permission of the author Secrets of Success with Edibles •  Soil management – feeding your soil not your plant •  Cool Season Edibles •  Proper plant selec>on and transplan>ng techniques •  Companion plan>ng strategies •  Fer>lizing •  Understanding your plant life cycle – seedling to harvest •  Design Soil Management • 
Soil Food Web The soil food web is the community of organisms living all or part of their lives in the soil. This food web diagram shows a series of conversions (represented by arrows) of energy and nutrients as one organism eats another (see food web diagram). The soil food web is the community of organisms living all or part of their lives in the soil. Most of these organisms live in the top 3 inches of soil. Soil organisms support plant health as they decompose organic maKer, cycle nutrients, enhance soil structure, and control the popula>ons of soil organisms including crop pests. Cool Season Edibles As the phrase implies, cool-‐season crops grow best in lower temperatures than warm-‐season crops. Op>mum temperatures for cool season crops range from 70/75° (21°-‐ 23.8°C) highs to 40/45° (4°-‐ 7.2°C) lows and soil temperatures between 40/45° (4°-‐7.2°C) during the growing season. Ar>choke Arugula (rocket) Beets Broccoli Brussels sprouts Cabbage Carrots Cauliﬂower Celery (mild winter climates) Chard Collards Fennel Kale Kohlrabi LeKuce Mizuna Mustard greens Onions (bulbing) Onions (bunching-‐-‐standard onions harvested before they form bulbs). Pak choi (Bok choy) Peas Potatoes Radishes Spinach Coriander (cilantro) Cool Season Edibles •  Cool-‐season crops tend to have shallower root systems, remaining in the part of the soil that remains warmest the longest. They also need to be watered and fer>lized less o^en as the lower temperatures lead to slower moisture evapora>on and growth. Warm-‐season crops are typically fruits while cool-‐season crops are root crops and salad greens generally. Cold Hardy and Semi Hardy We can break down the category of cool season crops further into two sub-‐categories: •  Cold Hardy -‐ tolerates minimum temperature of 40°F (4°C) and short sub-‐freezing condi>ons. Some of these veggies are: asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, chives, collards, garlic, horseradish, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, mustard, onions, parsley, peas, radishes, rhubarb, rutabaga, spinach, turnips. •  Semi Hardy -‐ tolerates minimum temperature of 40/45° (4°-‐7.2°C) and just a few hours of sub-‐freezing condi>ons. Some of these veggies are: beets, carrots, cauliﬂower, celery, celeriac, chard, Chinese cabbage, chicory, globe ar>chokes, endive, leKuce, parsnips, potatoes, salsify, sorrel and hardy herbs like dill, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, thyme. Feeding your soil, not your plants… • 
• 
• 
• 
Adding organic ma9er (compost/humus) -‐ Soil organic maCer is the storehouse for the energy and nutrients used by plants and other organisms. Bacteria, fungi, and other soil food web dwellers transform and release nutrients from organic maCer therefore replenishing soil with organic maCer periodically is essenAal for a vital soil food web. Avoiding the use of pes?cides (even organics) -‐ PesAcides, which include plant killers (herbicides), bug killers (insecAcides), fungi killers (fungicides) and bacteria killers (bactericides) also kill related and oLen beneﬁcial organisms. While each applicaAon may impact only a few species, the cumulaAve eﬀect of mulAple and repeated pesAcide applicaAons is a reducAon in the numbers and diversity of soil organisms. MULCH -‐ LePng liCer accumulate on the soil’s surface or by adding low-‐Nitrogen ﬁbrous organic materials like mulch, straw, brown leaves, etc can maintain fungi. Do not apply synthe?c fer?lizers – SyntheAc ferAlizers break the relaAonship between plants and soil organisms. Soil requirements of most edibles • 
• 
• 
pH (poten?al hydrogen) -‐ The soil pH value is a measure of soil acidity or alkalinity. Soil pH directly aﬀects nutrient availability. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 as neutral. Numbers less than 7 indicate acidity while numbers greater than 7 indicate alkalinity. MOST edibles thrive in a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH in the range of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil texture – Soil texture is the make-‐up of the soil according to the proporAons of sand, silt, and clay present. Edibles thrive in ﬂuﬀy, loamy soil, meaning a combinaAon of all three textures (about 40-‐40-‐20% concentraAon respecAvely). Fer?lity -‐ Vegetable crops diﬀer widely in their macronutrient (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) requirements, and in the paCern of uptake over the growing season. FruiAng crops such as tomato, pepper and melon require relaAvely liCle nutriAon unAl ﬂowering, when nutrient uptake accelerates, peaking during fruit set and early fruit bulking. As fruits mature, macronutrient requirement declines. Non-‐fruiAng crops such as celery, leCuce, and cole crops (mustard family includes cool season crops such as Brussels sprout, cabbage, cauliﬂower, collards, kale, kohlrabi, mustard, broccoli, turnips and watercress) have slow nutrient uptake through the ﬁrst half of the season, the rate of nutrient acquisiAon acceleraAng unAl just before harvest. Consistently adding organic maCer improves soil as a growing medium for plants. It helps release nitrogen, minerals, and other nutrients for plant use when it decays. Proper Plant Selec?on Quality of Nursery: Take in an overview of the plant department. Look to see that the majority of the plants seem healthy and well cared for. Is the nursery clean and well-‐organized? Foliage: Evaluate the condi>on of your speciﬁc plant. Are the leaves green, shiny and lush? Steer clear of any plants that are wil>ng or yellowing. Stressed plants may or may not recover. Shape: Consider the shape of the plant. Is it compact and full, with mul>ple stems? Taller is o^en not beKer. It could mean the plant has been straining for light and has grown thin and spindly. Insects & Disease: Inspect closely for signs of insects or disease. Check both sides of the leaves and the pofng soil. Signs can include: blackened areas, holes, spots, mushy areas, s>ckiness and distor>ons. Root System: Don’t neglect the roots. If the plant is pot bound and the roots are growing out of the boKom or encircling the root ball, the plant may be stressed and take >me to recover. If there aren’t many roots and the plant li^s out very easily, it was probably recently repoKed and could use more >me to become garden worthy AND worth the increased price that the nursery is charging for the larger sized pot. In this case, it is beKer to select a plant in a smaller pot that has grown into its space. Stem Damage: If the plant has a thick or woody stem, make sure there are no cracks or scars. Even prior damage can weaken a plant. Weeds: Weeds in the pot are compe>ng with the plant for nutrients. They also signal some neglect on the part of the nursery staﬀ. Root Ball: When buying a balled-‐and-‐burlapped tree or shrub, the root ball should feel solid. If it appears broken, there’s a good chance the roots have had a chance to dry out and the plant will suﬀer. Buds & Flowers: Plants in bud will transplant and thrive beKer than plants in ﬂower. When All is Said and Done: If you’ve just got to have it, go ahead and buy the plant. With a liCle pampering, it just may defy the odds. Proper Transplan?ng Techniques 1. Make sure the plant is not dry. Water the plant so that the root ball is moist before transplan>ng. 2. Dig a hole about two >mes wider than the plant's container, but no deeper than the plant’s root ball. 3. Tap the sides of the container ﬁrmly with a trowel to loosen the root ball. Gently extract the plant taking care not to damage the roots. Always Handle plants by their roots and not the branches or foliage. 4. If roots are circling the boKom of the root ball, make ver>cal cuts to score the root ball and loosen roots. This allows the roots to spread out and grow. 5. Mix your organic amendment materials with the soil you removed when digging the hole. Evenly distribute soil around the new plant without packing it down un>l the plant is seKled in and is level with the surrounding soil (there are some excep>ons to this -‐ i.e. trees, shrubs and some na>ves like to be slightly above soil horizon especially in sandy soils and tomatoes like to be planted deeply), so know your plants! 6. Water the plant thoroughly. Bonus Tip: Add a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch. For best results, use your hands to spread the mulch and avoid layering mulch too thickly as it can aﬀect plant health. Don't allow mulch to make direct contact with the plants, forming a ring about 2 to 3 inches around plants instead. This will help avoid disease problems. When ﬁnished, water down the mulch to give it moisture and help it seKle into place. • 
Companion Plan>ng Companion plan>ng can be described as the establishment of two or more plant species in close proximity so that some cultural beneﬁt (pest control, higher yield, etc.) is derived. Companion Plan>ng (herbs cont’d) Fer>lizing • 
• 
• 
The amount of fer>lizer to apply to a garden depends on the natural fer>lity of the soil, the amount of organic maKer present, the type of fer>lizer used, and the crop being grown. The best way to determine fer>lizer needs is to have the soil tested. Soil tes>ng is available through your local Extension agent, through private labs, and with soil test kits which can be purchased from garden shops and catalogs. The degree of acidity or alkalinity of the soil, as measured by pH, is an important factor in the availability of soil nutrients to plants. At pH extremes, some nutrients become par>ally or completely locked up in the soil and cannot be used by plants even though they are s>ll present. A general rule of thumb is that nitrogen is for leafy top growth; phosphorus is for root and fruit produc>on; and potassium is for cold hardiness, disease resistance, and general durability. Understanding your plant life cycle – seedling to harvest • 
• 
Life Cycles of Plants -‐ Plants are classiﬁed by the number of growing seasons required to complete a life cycle. Annuals pass through their en>re life cycle from seed germina>on to seed produc>on in one growing season and then die. Biennials are plants which start from seeds and produce vegeta>ve structures and food storage organs the ﬁrst season. Perennial plants live for many years, and a^er reaching maturity, typically produce ﬂowers and seeds each year. Perennials are classiﬁed as herbaceous if the top dies back to the ground each winter and new stems grow from the roots each spring. They are classiﬁed as woody if the top persists, as in shrubs or trees. How Your Plant Produces Seeds -‐ Plants create seeds when they become mature enough to produce fruits or ﬂowers, which are their seed-‐making and seed-‐
distribu>on mechanisms. Seed plant propaga>on requires interac>on between the male and female parts of the plant-‐-‐the stamens and pis>ls, respec>vely. Pollina>on, or the fer>liza>on needed for seed produc>on, takes place when pollen from the stamens reaches the seed ovules in the pis>ls. Then new seeds are born, grow to ripeness and are ready to create a new plant. Understanding your plant life cycle – seedling to harvest • 
Pollina?on -‐ There are three pollina>on methods of concern to the home Gardener: air-‐borne, insect and self. If the seed produced is to have the same gene>c composi>on of its parents, it must be pollinated with pollen from the same variety. Open-‐pollinated varie>es will grow true to type when randomly mated within their own variety. If two varie>es of spinach bloom near each other, the resultant seed is likely to be a cross between the two. Understanding your plant life cycle – seedling to harvest How to Landscape with Edibles – Design Principals You’re s>ll focusing on the same basic elements:   Unity-‐ It may be beKer understood and applied as consistency and repe>>on. Repe>>on creates unity by  
 
 
 
 
 
repea>ng alike elements like plants, plant groups, or decor throughout the landscape. Consistency creates unity in the sense that some or all of the diﬀerent elements of the landscape ﬁt together to create a whole. Simplicity-‐ Simplicity in plan>ng, for instance, would be to pick two or three colors and repeat them throughout the garden or landscape. Keeping decor to a minimum and within a speciﬁc theme as well as keeping hardscapes such as boulders consistent is also prac>cing simplicity. Balance-‐ in design is just as the word implies. A sense of equality. There are basically two types of balance in landscape design. Symmetrical and Asymmetrical. Symmetrical balance: more or less equally spaced matching elements of the garden design. Asymmetrical balance: While textures, forms, colors, etc. may remain constant to create some unity, shapes and hardscapes may be more random. Color-‐ Bright colors like reds, yellows and oranges seem to advance toward you and can actually make an object seem closer to you. Cool colors like greens, blues, and pastels seem to move away from you and can make an object seem farther from you. Grays, blacks, and whites are considered neutral colors and are best used in the background with bright colors in the foreground. However, to increase depth in a landscape, you can use dark and coarse textured plants in the foreground and use ﬁne textured and light colored plants in the background. Natural transi>on-‐ It can best be illustrated in terms of plant height or color but can also be applied to all elements in the landscape including but not limited to textures, foliage shape or size, and the size and shape of diﬀerent elements. In other words, transi>on can be achieved by the gradual, ascending or descending, arrangement of diﬀerent elements with varying textures, forms, colors, or sizes. Line-‐ It can mostly be related to the way beds, walkways, and entryways move and ﬂow. Straight lines are forceful and direct while curvy lines have a more natural, gentle, ﬂowing eﬀect. Propor>on -‐ simply refers to the size of elements in rela>on to each other. The goal is to create a pleasing rela>onship among the three dimensions of length, breadth, and depth or height. The Color Wheel Remember: Complementary Colors: Those colors located opposite each other on a color wheel. These pairings bring excitement to your landscape. Analogous colors: These are any colors directly beside a given color. If you start with orange and you want its two analogous colors, you select red and yellow. A color scheme that uses analogous colors provides a harmony and blending of the colors, similar to what might be found in nature. Good sites on the color wheel: hKp://www.dreamhomedecora>ng.com/color-‐
wheel-‐chart.html#four
hKp://msdn.microso^.com/en-‐us/library/
bb263947%28VS.85%29.aspx hKp://www.colormaKers.com/colortheory.html Color Harmony Some Formulas for Color Harmony There are many theories for harmony. The following illustra>ons and descrip>ons present some basic formulas…. A color scheme based on analogous colors Analogous colors are any three colors which are side by side on a 12 part color wheel, such as yellow green, yellow, and yellow-‐orange. Usually one of the three colors predominates. A color scheme based on complementary colors Complementary colors are any two colors which are directly opposite each other, such as red and green and red-‐purple and yellow-‐green. In the illustra>on above, there are several varia>ons of yellow-‐green in the leaves and several varia>ons of red-‐purple in the orchid. These opposing colors create maximum contrast and maximum stability. A color scheme based on nature Nature provides a perfect departure point for color harmony. In the illustra>on above, red yellow and green create a harmonious design, regardless of whether this combina>on ﬁts into a technical formula for color harmony. Join us on Facebook – facebook.com/myhgel.com TwiKer – twiKer.com/homegrownedible Email -‐ [email protected] Download a PDF copy of this presenta>on: www.groedibles.com/service/speaking-‐instruc>ng/