HOW TO MAKE A CHAIR OPEN SOURCE DESIGN AND INSTRUCTIONS BY JAMES TOOZE TOOLS NEEDED 5m Hand saw Tape measure Carpenters square HB 4mm drill bit Protractor Pencil PZ #2 screw -driver bit * 2 x hand clamps Sand paper Block plane Drill / driver Countersink *PZ #2 or (pozi 2) is a screw head size. MATERIALS NEEDED All plywood is 18mm thick Plywood for the jig all dimensions in mm Plywood for each chair all dimensions in mm quantity 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 width 55 55 55 55 55 55 180 100 180 420 quantity length x x x x x x x x x x 1 1 1 1 450 420 400 380 350 310 200 150 380 380 Softwood (pine) for each chair all dimensions in mm quantity thickness 6 30 width x 30 width 55 55 55 650 length x x x x 650 350 200 380 Screws for the jig all PZ #2 head 2 of 4mm x 30mm Screws for the chair all PZ #2 head 71 of 4mm x 30mm 6 of 4mm x 45mm 4 of 4mm x 45mm 12 of 4mm x 75mm length x 380 OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 02 STEP 1 - MAKING THE JIG * a jig is a tool that allows the for the repeating of a process more accuratly. This part is vital if you do not have access to power tools as it will help you to measure and cut all of the components for the sides. part quantity 1 2 3 4 1 1 1 1 width 55 mm 55 mm 55 mm 650 mm length x x x x 650 mm 350 mm 200 mm 380 mm 2 of 4mm x 30mm 6 of 4mm x 45mm 1) position part 1 onto part 4 as per drawing 1 and fix in place using 4 x 30mm screws. 2) measure in roughly 5mm from each edge and mark a line at 90° on the left and at 100° on the right 3) screw on parts 2 and 3 using 4 x 45mm screws making sure they are accurately lined up, the edge of part 2 with the 100° line (right) and part 3 with the 90° (left). When attaching these pieces first put one screw in then adjust to correct angle then when confident they are at the desired angle fix in place with the second screw. 4) with parts 2 and 3 screwed in place use them as a guide to cut off the ends sticking out from part 1, accuracy is important here, try to cut as tight to the guide as possible and as straight / vertical as you can. PART 3 5) Refer to drawing 3 for the measurements you need for the chair to mark out onto the jig. 90 PART 4 PART 2 200 mm PART 1 100 JIG DRAWING 1 OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 03 0 20 mm JIG DRAWING 3 450 420 350 380 400 380 420 450 310 JIG DRAWING 2 measurement from end OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 04 STEP 2 - USING THE JIG - CUTTING THE PARTS part A B C D E F G H quantity width 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 length 55 mm 55 mm 55 mm 55 mm 55 mm 55 mm 180 mm 100 mm x x x x x x x x 450 mm 420 mm 400 mm 380 mm 350 mm 310 mm 200 mm 150 mm 1) To cut the parts position them tight into the jig as per drawing 4 up to the measurements for each part. Again try to be as accurate as possible, tight to the guide and vertical. If you are cutting from long lengths, once you have cut an angled cut (100°) the jig can be rotated to cut the next piece to length with a square cut (90°). Cut the longest lengths first and those with cuts at 100° at one end. As you cut the parts label them with a pencil for easy identification. * remove dust build-up underneath the saw guide to prevent inaccurate positioning of the piece to be cut! 450 420 400 380 350 310 380 420 450 2) Once you have cut parts A to F make sure that the 2 versions of each are accurate and the same. Then put them to one side. PART A * 100 angle on one end JIG DRAWING 4 rest saw against guide to cut. OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 05 200 mm 180 mm PART G PART G 12 mm 12 mm JIG DRAWING 5 3) Take parts G and mark out as per drawing 5, put part into jig, positioning the marked in line with the guide rail, cut off the bit sticking out and turn over and repeat. 12 mm 4) Mark out with pencil on to parts G as per drawing 6. 5) Separate parts A – H into two piles with one piece of each part, making left and right hand piles. Using the pencil mark onto each piece whether it is left or right. It is important to make sure when connecting parts you make a lefthand side of the chair and a righthand side and not two of the same!! 100 mm 100 mm JIG DRAWING 6 OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 06 STEP 3 - MAKING THE CHAIR - SIDES PA R 56 of 4mm x 30mm * TB line up the top right corner of part B with the centre mark on part G making sure that it is posi- 100 mm tioned along the centre line. 100 mm R PA RT PA TG T PAR R PA TH A D * TIP – to mark out the screw holes quickly, first measure your desired distance in, in this case 10mm. Hold the pencil tightly and using the fingers underneath the pencil run them along the edge of your work piece to get a fairly consistent line. When repeating on other pieces refer back to you original mark. Drill a hole for the screws and then countersink, do this before putting it in place. OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 07 R PA TC * Check that this is a right angle. R PA * Repeat up to this stage but for the lefthand side. Put the two sides together to check that both sides are the same. If you need to adjust do so by marking which part you want to adjust and by how much. The parts can be adjusted by loosening the screws in that piece and then tightening back up in the desired position. TF R PA TE m 0m 45 m m 5 43 Mark the measurements onto the sides and using the long edge of the jig line up the two marks and clamp in place. Use the edge of the jig as a guide to cut straight so that the bottom of the chair legs are flat to the floor. OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 08 Once the sides are screwed together use the saw to cut off the excess material from bracket parts G + H. Try to cut as straight and carefully as possible OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 09 34mm Taking both sides mark out as below the positions for the screw hole to assemble the chair. Drill and contersink the holes making sure to countersink the correct face. 16mm 364mm 404mm 210mm 16mm 34mm for these two position 9mm from top edge and 20mm in from corner brackets 230mm 27.5mm * in the middle OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 10 STEP 4 - MAKING THE CHAIR - SEAT + BACK part I J quantity 1 1 width length 180mm 420 mm x x 380 mm 380 mm 15 of 4mm x 30mm Softwood (pine) for each chair all dimensions in mm part K quantity 6 thickness 32mm width x 32mm length x 380 mm *The sixth bit is for the back leg support in STEP 5 Pre drill and countersink parts holes before assembly. To line up the mid batot in the centre of the seat mark as indicated below. It is essential that the battons are screwed on in line with the plywood parts, use the clamps to hold pieces ensure correct alignment prior to screwing. 190mm 60mm 16mm Before assembling the chair in step 4, plane / sand the edges of the back and seat, removing the edge to approximately a 5mm radius to make for a more comfortable chair. 210mm mark the centre of part J on both sides and the centre of the end of the batton on both ends to line up. OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 11 STEP 5 - MAKING THE CHAIR - ASSEMBLY 4 of 4mm x 45mm 12 of 4mm x 75mm To screw together start by attaching the back to one side then attach the seat. Next screw on the otherside and finally attach the back rail making sure that you position it centrally to the screw hole in the rear leg. Again it is important to align the parts prior to screwing together - start with one screw and if correctly placed, do the rest, if not loosen it a bit and reposition then put in one of the other screws to hold it. Then fix all screws. Using the sandpaper / block plane put a radius on the corners that meet the seat and back. Sand all edges of the chair to remove sharp edges and risk of splinters. Sand edges to smooth. DONE - you can now keep the chair as it is or apply a water based (acrylic) varnish or paint it, or paint some of it. OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 12 STEP 6 - CHANGE WHATEVER YOU WANT I hope this has been useful. Please use it as a guide. Feel free to alter / adapt and reinterpret. PROJECT DISCLAIMER Your safety is your own responsibility, including proper use of equipment and safety gear, and determining whether you have adequate skill and experience. Powertools, electricity and other resourcesused for these projects are highly dangerous, unless used properly and withadequate precautions, including correct safety equipment and proper environments. Use of the instructions and suggestions in the How to make a chair open source (Open chair) is at your own risk. The designer disclaims all responsibility for any resulting damage, injury, or expense in the making of the project, or usage of the finished articles thereafter. It is your responsibility to make sure that your activities comply with applicable laws, including copyright. Anyone, except for industry and dealers (in their professional capacities), can use these designs for personal use. I ask those who construct these designs, and variations in particular, to send photographs via their personal websites, which can be accessed via www.jamestooze.wordpress.com OPEN CHAIR - by James Tooze This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License. 13
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