1. business and industrial
2. chemicals industry
3. adhesives

HOW TO
TUFFLEX® WORKSHEET
An introduction to the basic theories, calculations, and procedures of using
TUFFLEX® Resin Binder Concentrate (RBC),
Plus some informal hints to make the process a whole lot more fun!
TUFFLEX Resin Binder Concentrate (RBC) is a breakthrough
Water Catalyzed Polyurea-Urethane resin binder with entirely new
capabilities and versatilities that were never available with the “old
technology” moisture cure materials.
With “old technology” urethanes, you needed to spread the material
in paint like coats, then wait up to 24 hours for each coat to cure
from moisture derived from the air before application of the other
thin coats required to build up any meaningful membrane
thickness. Solvent shrinkage, odors, mediocre physical properties
and high labor costs resulting from multiple application steps are
additional limitations.
The Solvent Free "TUFF" has a Shore A hardness of about 65 and
cures to an extremely TUFF flexible membrane for hard usage
decks and roofing applications. The Solvent Free "SOFT" has a
Shore A hardness of about 40 and is usually used as a pad in
"T"-Joints, as a crack filler and as a coving & caulking material.
The "TUFF" material can also be applied as the wear-surface
coating on top of the "SOFT". These two materials can be "Mixed
& Matched" to reach a Shore A hardness in between. A 50/50
blend or mixture of the two will result in a Shore A hardness of
approximately 50.
(Refer to the “TUFF” & “SOFT” TECHNICAL BULLETINS for
further information.)
The addition of 25% plain tap water cures the TUFFLEX RBC so
that now any thickness of membrane can be applied in a single
coat. Now a coatings contractor can spread a solvent - free,
virtually odorless, extra tough and flexible polyurea-urethane
coating knowing that he has control of the pot-life of his mixture,
the thickness of his membrane and the time of its cure. (Never add
less than 15% water because there might not be enough of the
catalyzing water to completely react with the RBC and out-gassing
will occur.)
The three most important and unique things about both RBC
“TUFF” & “SOFT” are:
The TUFFLEX Technology has been used for waterproofing
membranes, "T" - expansion and seismic joints, flexible sloping
under-layment, crack filling, caulking, animal habitat seamless
Mono-Mat Systems and by movie studios for the casting special
effects props. TUFFLEX uses are only limited by your imagination.
Water is the curing agent, and by adding the water, you also
increase the yield by 25% and lower the end use cost by 25%. The
advantage of a water catalyzed material is that you can apply the
TUFFLEX Membrane "thicker & quicker" than the "old
technology" elastomeric and save time & money.
Such a wide range of versatility could lead one to think that
TUFFLEX Materials and Systems are complicated and difficult to
work with. Nothing could be further from the truth!
It's that simple!
It is this tremendous versatility - coupled with user friendliness that is at the very heart of TUFFLEX technology and application
capabilities.
1. They are concentrated; so various fillers can be added.
2. They are water-cured; by adding 25% plain tap water.
3. The 25% water adds to the yield, and actually lowers the cost!
Far from being complicated, these three facts are the backbone of
the TUFFLEX Materials: Simplicity, Versatility and Economy.
A bit later, we will review even more TUFFLEX Materials &
Systems advantages, such as how to save additional labor and
materials costs while solving some really unique problems.
Understanding and Calculating Yield
As with anything new, it only takes a bit of hands-on trial & error
to relieve such apprehensions. A little experience and a little
ingenuity can result in a combination that will help the contractor
successfully increase his bottom line of job satisfaction and
monetary gain.
The basic “Yield" formulation is the addition of 25% water to each
unit of TUFFLEX® RBC. This increases the yield by 25% and
consequently, lowers the cost by 25%.
HINT: Make copies of the following worksheet pages to use as onthe-job reminder sheets.
One unit of TUFFLEX Resin Binder Concentrate (RBC), plus 25%
water, yields 1.25 units of Base Membrane Mixture (BMM).
RBC + 25% water = BMM.
The primary, and one of the most unique materials, in the
TUFFLEX product line is the TUFFLEX Resin Binder
Concentrate (RBC). This comes in two forms:
For example, a 5 gallon pail of TUFFLEX RBC X 1.25 yield =
6.25 gallons of TUFFLEX BMM.
Solvent-Free "TUFF" and Solvent-Free "SOFT"
Total cost (Material cost + tax + shipping, etc.), divided by 1.25
yields = $_.__, this gives you the true per gallon cost of a mixed
gallon unit of BMM.
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
TUFFLEX overlay systems normally begin with proper surface
preparation and priming, then the application of a base membrane
of either 40-mils on smooth surfaces, such as well finished concrete
or metal ship decks, or 62.5-mils (1/16 inch) on plywood or other
less smooth surfaces. TUFFLEX RBC has also been used for 1/2inch (500-mil) seamless animal habitat pads as described in our
Mono-Mat System brochure and literature!
There are 1,600-mil sq. ft. (msf) per gallon of liquid. If you divide
1,600 by 40 mils thickness you get 40 sq. ft. of coverage. When
25% water is added to the TUFFLEX Resin Binder Concentrate
(RBC) to act as the catalyst, the water also acts as a "filler
material" increasing the "yield" of the material by 25% to 2,000 mil
sq. ft. (1 gallon of RBC + 25% water = 1 ¼ gallons of ready-to-use
Base Membrane Mixture (BMM). An extra quart of material for
free!) Divide 2,000 mils by 40 mil thickness = 50 sq. ft. coverage
per 1 ¼ gallon of BMM, 10 sq. ft. increase in coverage for the
"free" cost of the water! RBC plus water = BMM.
It is most efficient to mix in half-pail quantities (2 ½ gals. of RBC
plus 2 or 2 ½ quarts of catalyzing water) because pouring water
into a full 5-gallon pail would cause it to overflow. Each 5-gallon
pail of RBC plus the catalyzing 25% of free water yields 6 to 6 ¼
gallons of usable Base Membrane Mixture (BMM). Up to 1 ¼
gallons of additional material for free!
40 mil system calculations:
1 gallon of TUFFLEX RBC + 1 quart (25%) water = 1 1/4 gallons
of BMM/2000 msf. Divide by 40 mil thickness = 50 sq. ft. of
coverage per mixed unit (1-gallon of RBC + 1-quart of water). A ½
pail mixing unit of RBC (plus its 2 1/2 quarts of water) will cover
125 sq. ft. and a full 5 gallon pail of RBC (plus its 5 quarts of
water) will cover 250 sq. ft. at 40 mils thickness.
62.5 mil system calculations (1/16th inch.):
1 gallon of RBC + 1 quart (25%) water = 1 1/4 gallons of BMM
/2,000 msf. Divide by 62.5 mil thickness = 32 sq. ft. of coverage
per mixed unit (1-gallon of RBC + 1-quart of water). Half pail
mixing unit of RBC (plus its 2 1/2 quarts of water) will cover 80
sq. ft. and a full 5-gallon pail of RBC (plus its 5 quarts of water)
will cover 160 sq. ft. at 62.5 mils thickness.
Calculating the RBC required for a 1,000 sq. ft. job
40 mil thickness:
One gallon of RBC + 25% water covers 50 sq. ft. at 40 mils.
A 1,000 sq. ft. job divided by 50 = 20 gallons or 4 – 5 gallon pails
of RBC needed for the job. After adding the 25% of catalyzing
water, the resulting yield is 25 gallons of ready-to-use BMM. (One
5 gallon pail of additional material for the “cost” of the water!)
62.5 mil thickness:
One gallon of RBC + 25% water covers 32 sq. ft. at 62.5 mils.
A 1,000 sq. ft. job divided by 32 = 31 ¼ gallons or a little over 6 –
5 gallon pails of RBC needed for the job. After adding the 25% of
catalyzing water, the resulting yield is 38 gallons of ready-to-use
BMM. (About 7 + gallons of additional material for the “cost” of
the water!)
As with any building material, a "safety factor" allowance should
be figured in to compensate for uneven substrates, joint taping,
patching and waste.
Another way of figuring material usage:
1 gallon RBC = 1,600 mil square feet (msf)
1 quart water = 400 mil square feet
1 1/4 gallons = 2000 msf in 1 1/4 gallons of BMM.
Divide by the desired thickness. Example:
1/4 inch = 250 mils, divided into 2,000 mils (1 1/4 gal. BMM) = 8
sq. ft. at 1/4 inch thick.
Divide the cost per gallon of RBC by 2,000 msf to get the per mil
cost and then multiply by the mils thickness needed to figure the
membrane cost per sq. ft.
"How To" and miscellaneous ramblings
When the RBC is mixed with water, you have about 15 - 20
minutes +/- to apply the BMM and still have it flow freely and self
level easily.
On large jobs that will require multiple mixing cycles, so normally
mix in half pail units as the job progresses. The mixer person is the
key and he must time the mixing to keep a wet edge and not get
ahead or behind the applicators. (It's a lot easier than it sounds. It
just takes communication, practice and experience.)
The rule of thumb when applying the BMM is "The quicker the
better!" In other words, don't hesitate. You can detail before and
after the membrane is applied, but try not to "dawdle" while the
material is setting up in the pail. The quicker it goes down, the
better the material will lay out and smoothly self-level.
Hint: In HOT weather you can add COLD WATER to slow down
the catalyzing rate and in COLD weather, HOT WATER to speed it
up. As with everything else in life, experience and practice will
make things easier as time progresses. Life is a learning curve!
Set Up Time
When the water is added, the final set up time will still depend on
the weather and temperature. The additional of a chemical catalyst
(The green colored vile.) is another tool to help meet your job
needs. One vial of "green" is shipped with each pail of RBC and
should be added when the pail is boxed and mixed in order to get
the settled solids off the pail bottom and prior to the addition of
water. This vial brings the pail up to the "normal" amount of
catalyst. (This amount is kept out during manufacturing for better
storage life.) If this vial is forgotten, the material will just take a
little longer to set up. (But don't ever forget the water!!!)In cold
weather, additional "green" chemical catalyst may be added to
speed up the cure time. One additional 1 oz. vial per half pail
mixing unit will maximize the curing time (1 for "normal" and 2
additional = 3 total per 5 gallon pail of RBC). The additional cost is
only 2 to 3 cents per sq. ft. and it really speeds things up! The
working time does not measurably change, just the end cure time,
which means that you can get back on the cured membrane earlier
to finish the job quicker.
Curing Time
On a “normal” 70-degree +/- day, the set up without additional
chemical catalyst will be about 3 to 4 hours. With the addition of
the "green" chemical catalyst, (3 vials max. per pail on very cold
days) the time can drop to about 2 to 3 hours, or even quicker in
warmer weather. As always, experience is the only true teacher!
Adding filler material to the RBC
TUFFLEX RBC can be thickened with rubber granules or sand in
order to use it in some really unique and very cost-effective
applications.
The two rules of thumb are:
1. If you need the TUFFLEX mixture thick, mix it thick. If you
need it thin, mix it thin. (Add more or less filler material.)
2. Don't ever forget the water!!!!!!
Yes, it's that simple. Mix thick or thin as needed after you throw in
25% water. It's almost contractor proof!
By using the TUFFLEX mixtures as your caulking or sloping
materials, you will not have the waiting time that you would if you
used cementitious or non-TUFFLEX caulking materials. These
other materials must be allowed to dry out, out-gas and cure
completely by being left open to the air. The TUFFLEX mixtures
are internally curing materials and may be covered with the next
application step as soon as they cure firm enough so that they do
not lift up when applied over. (We call this "materials receptive."
As long as you don't pull up more than you put down, you can
proceed!)
Cove up the walls, patch the cracks, tape the joints, and slope to
drain then cover those steps, with the membrane coat application.
The materials will bond to each other and cure out as one flexible
and monolithic unit. The entire deck can "rock & roll" as a unit.
This really speeds up total completion time. Remember, time is
money! When rubber granules are added to the TUFFLEX RBC it
obviously creates a more flexible system than when sand has been
added. But, both rubber and sand have their place on the job site.
Rubber is usually used when "caulking" or "spackling" mixtures
are needed for filling cracks or coving up walls. You can use bulk
guns or disposable tubes for application after the material has been
mixed and thickened.) With the fillers, the cost is even less. Try to
find a tougher or better caulk at any price!
(Refer to the TUFFLEX SPECIFICATION: “CRACK FILLING
AND CAULKING MATERIALS” and the TUFFLEX “How to”
Photo Job History: “Coving and Caulking with thickened
TUFFLEX Materials” for further information.)
The TUFFLEX "Sand Slurry" is made with the "TUFF" material
because you can add quite a bit of sand and it will still remains a
very tough and solid material. A mixture of 1/2 to 1 unit of sand
will still be a very fluid and easy to work mixture for filling surface
spalling and general patching. By adding 1 ½ to 2 units of sand
(With corresponding per unit cost savings) you can mix a stiff
enough batch to form a sloping angle. If the deck flexes, the Sand
Slurry will not de-laminate under the membrane like a cementitious
or epoxy material would. This is why it works so well on plywood
and twisting ship decks. Just part of the TUFFLEX "Rock & Roll"
theory!
(Refer to the TUFFLEX SPECIFICATION: “SAND SLURRY
SPECIFICATION and APPLICATION GUIDE”.)
Readily available 20 mesh silica sand is fine for the Sand Slurries,
and either the EPDM texture rubber or the finer ground black tire
rubber can be used for the caulking or coving tasks. If a lot of
rubber is needed, the properly cleaned black tire grindings are less
expensive than the EPDM texture rubber.
"T" Joint
In the TUFFLEX "T" Joint system, the "SOFT" binder is used in
the expansion joint and the "TUFF" material is applied as a
membrane over the top to form a monolithic "T" Joint. The joint
will still be visible as it expands and contracts, but the edge wear,
high heel shoe penetration problems and edge leakage are
eliminated.
Many more uses for TUFFLEX Materials & Systems can be found
in our brochures, specifications book, on our web site
www.tufflexpolymers.com and the Photo Job Histories on our CD,
which is available through our web site or by calling our office.
Compatible Solvents
Use with caution, since solvents are flammable.
Always check your local V.O.C. limiting requirements when
selecting solvents for clean up. Sometimes, in some regulatory
areas, the primers and color coats can be cut with solvent for
economy and/or ease of application. Please check the specific
TUFFLEX Technical Data Sheet for further info.
Xylene and Toluene are compatible for use with epoxy primers and
urethane grade PDA Acetate is compatible with polyureaurethanes. Never use a solvents that contains alcohol, it has a
negative effect on polyurea-urethane membranes.
Always read and understand the MSDS information for all
materials used on the job site.
WORKSHEET (07)
HOW TO
SUGGESTED BASIC EQUIPMENT LIST
PAPERWORK:
•Copy of job contract or work order.
•Copy of the TUFFLEX Specification(s) to be used.
•Building Permit, if required.
•Copies of this list and any other notes to use as job site
reminders.
SAFETY AND PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT:
•Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for making employees
aware of safety and self-protection.
•Activated carbon filter masks or fresh air masks for work
indoors and/or in poorly ventilated areas.
•Safety glasses or goggles for protection when mixing.
•Proper rubber gloves for use with solvents.
FOR MIXING:
•Heavy-duty Milwaukee “Hole-Hawg” or equal. 300-r.p.m. is
the fastest speed recommended, so that all minimum of air
will be whipped into TUFFLEX mixtures. Keep the blade
down in the bottom of the pail and draw the material from the
surface when mixing in order to avoid mixing the air. Do not
“bounce” the mixer up & down in the material, as that will
whip in air that may become trapped in the mixture when
curing and cause blisters. Refer to the ADVISORIES:
“CAUSES OF SURFACE BLISTERS AND HOW TO
AVOID THEM.”
•5 gallon size mixing paddle
•Heavy-duty electric cord with #12 size wire.
•Two empty 5-gallon plastic pails for mixing that TUFFLEX
RBC in. For “boxing” the material in prior to mixing and to
mix in and carry to the application area. Extra plastic pails for
use with the primer and colorcoats. Several 1 gallon plastic
buckets for measuring and for holding small quantities of
patching material. (Plastic containers are reusable as the
cured material will peel out.)
•Plastic trash cans, 30 gal. +/-. It is easier to dump the texture
granules into the large plastic trash cans and work out of
them than work out of the tippy bags. The recovered granules
can be put back into the cans, lids snapped on, and
transported to the next work site. Also good for holding the
water for mixing.
•Drop cloths or thin plywood panels to mix on and protect the
job site surface.
FOR SPREADING:
•Measuring tape and chalk line for setting up quantity control
grids on surfaces to be coated. Especially useful when first
learning to use TUFFLEX Membrane materials and their
spread rates.
•Paint rollers with medium (1/8” to 3/8”) nap and poles for
spreading primer, base material and colorcoats. Use solvents
resistant resin core roller covers. Use good quality frames and
poles. Cheap ones bend!
•Concrete trowels in 4” x 14” to 4” x 20” sizes. Shorter
trowels for use in congested areas. Round ended or notched
trowels are optional depending on experience or needs.
•Heavy-duty squeegees for larger jobs. Notched or straight
depending on experience or needs.
•Various sized spackle or wall board knives for spreading materials
in different sized areas and touch-up.
•Inexpensive paint brushes for touch-up. (Throw aways.)
•An inside-angle concrete step trowel for coving at vertical walls
with thickened TUFFLEX mixtures to form coving details.
•Knee-pads. No “hands and knees” work should be down without
knee-pads!
•Lightweight cotton (breathable) gloves to keep hands cleaner. Use
rubber gloves when using solvents.
MISCELLANEOUS:
•Lid lifters for easy removal of plastic pail lids. Eliminate cutting
and saves lids for reuse.
•Solvent for tool and hand cleaning. Always check your local
V.O.C. limiting requirements when selecting solvents. Compatible
solvents: Xylene, Xylol, Toluol, MEK and Trichloroethylene.
Never use solvents that contain alcohol, which has a negative
effect on urethanes.
•Rags for clean-up.
•Razor blade knives.
•Duct tape for masking and taping off area edges.
•3” wide polyester fabric reinforcement “TUFF-TAPE” for
plywood joint bridging. Provides stress-relief and helps visually
hide the joints.
•Scissors for cutting fabric.
•Hacksaw for cutting metal step-nosing, etc.
•Tin snips for cutting and trimming metal flashing reinforcement
mesh.
•Masking tape and masking paper for detailing. (A few minutes of
masking is a lot less time than hours of clean-up!)
•Etching compound (muriatic acid, etc.) for galvanized flashing
metal and TSP for neutralizing.
•Chisels for opening and cleaning cracks.
•Wet-Dry shop-vac for cleaning out cracks, crevices and after
cleaning the vac, picking up excess texture granules for reuse.
•Brooms, push and straight, for clean-up. Also dust pans.
•4’ carpenter’s level for checking deck drainage.
•Hammer, annular ring shank nails, screws, electric drill with screw
bit, nail and/or staple guns depending on job size and needs.
•Drag chain for checking spalled concrete and exposing to substrate
that has to be removed. (2’ long heavy chain attached to a 2-3 foot
long handle. High pitch sound means OK. Low pitch areas are
probably delaminated and should be removed.)
•Electric
or gas vacuum blower.
titled“REMOVING RUBBER GRANULE
BROADCASTING TEXTURE GRANULES”.
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
See Advisory
LUMPS AND
HOW TO
TUFFLEX ON-THE-JOB-REMINDER SHEET
BEFORE LEAVING THE SHOP FOR YOUR
JOB:
You, and your crew, should be familiar with all TUFFLEX
instructional, advisory and cautionary information. Review and/or
take with you copies of the TUFFLEX Worksheet & Suggested
Basic Equipment List. Make sure you have copies of the
TUFFLEX MSDS information on the job. Be familiar with the
TUFFLEX Specification that is to be applied.
PLYWOOD APPLICATION REMINDERS:
•Follow the surface preparation and application guidelines
detailed in the TUFFLEX Pedestrian Deck Overlay
Specification of Plywood. Some highlights of this
Specification –
•¾”
plywood is recommended over 16” O.C. joist spacing.
The A-grade side should be up to minimize surface prep time
and labor required on lesser grade plywood. Good jobs start
with good substrates.
•All plywood side and end joints should be backed by
minimum 2” framing members.
•Joint spacing between plywood panels should be
approximately 1/8-inch, or should be saw cut to about that
spacing. This allows the plywood to naturally expand,
contract and flex with the joints acting as small expansion
joints. This prevents edge rubbing and failure.
•Venting of sun-heated and expanded air in plywood joint
spaces must be provided for.
•Annular ring shank nails or screws of a length consistent with
the plywood thickness, should be spaced at a maximum of 6”
O.C.. Sink the nails/screws into the deck and fill indent with
thickened TUFFLEX mixture prior to membrane application.
•If the plywood surface is contaminated or of suspect
condition, use a text patch to check the surface. Do not coat
over a surface that may later fail just to satisfy a customer.
Don’t own someone else’s problem!
METAL FLASHING AND DECK EDGING:
•Galvanized
metal must be roughed up and/or etched with
muriatic acid and neutralized with TSP. Apply the primer
when dry. Surface preparation is important in all phases of
coatings but is critical when going over flashing metal. If
doubtful, use test patches to check the bond.
•Metal edging and wall flashing should be nailed with bigheaded galvanized roofing nails, or equal, at a maximum of
3” O.C. near the edge closest to the plywood deck to
minimize up-warping from the sun’s heat.
PLYWOOD JOINT TREATMENT:
•The 1/8” joint spacing, as recommended above, must be
bridged with “TUFF-TAPE”, a flexible polyester fabric. The
joint space is best left empty and the tape and membrane
bridging above.
•To bridge the joint, primer if called for, and a skim coat of
TUFFLEX BMM is spread over the joint area. The TUFFTAPE is laid into the material and pulled tight to the deck
with a broad knife. Start at the center of the tape and work to
the ends, making sure to keep the tape flat and tight to the
deck. Use a bit more material or use the excess around the
tape to “set” the tape in the skim coat. The tighter you keep
this application step, the less likely the joints will show on
the surface after the membrane has been applied. “Traffic
hump” joints are a no-no. By keeping the TUFF-TAPE joint
at the bottom of the membrane application, maximum
flexibility is achieved during normal expansion and
contradiction of the deck. Note: sometimes the joints still
show because of this deck movement. At least the joints
won’t rub and fail.
PRIMING:
•When priming is called for, apply the primer uniformly, but
sparingly, with no puddles and allow to cure until tacky or
dry. Hint: because the primer does not sink into the metal
flashing like it will with plywood and concrete, it will take
longer for it to become tacky. So do your edge metal priming
first and allow it to set-up while working on other areas of the
deck. Metal is harder to primer because the primer does the
flashing details. Rough-sand flashing metal for optimum
bond.
PREPPING AND DETAILING THE DECK:
•Level and fill all nail & screw depressions and detail smooth
wood to metal transitions with TUFF-TAPE and a thickened
mixture of BMM. If a limited amount has to be done, use the
surface texture granules, if a lot has to be done, use the less
expensive black tire grindings. Mix thick or thin as needed
for patching and coving. (Refer to the “‘How To’ and
miscellaneous ramblings” of the TUFFLEX WORKSHEET.)
•Use the TUFFLEX Sand Slurry to fill large voids, sloping to
drain or ramping up several inches for wheelchair access to
door sills. This makes a flexible sloping and filling material
that will not crack with substrate movement. Shape with a
wood float and finish with a steel trowel lubricated with
approved solvent. (Refer to: “TUFFLEX Sand Slurry
Specification and Application Guide” for further
information.)
MIXING AND APPLICATION RATES AND
TECHNIQUES:
•The best reference to review for mixing instructions and
techniques is the “TUFFLEX Worksheet” in the HOW TO
section. This publication will explain the theory and practice
of TUFFLEX RBC use. The application rates are stated in the
TUFFLEX Specification being used. The “Worksheet” shows
how to figure material estimation and spread rates.
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
BROADCASTING TEXTURE GRANULES:
•The texture choice is up to the customer’s needs and wishes.
The rule of thumb is that the more slip resistant a surface, the
harder it is to clean. Ski resorts usually want very aggressive
surfaces and home owners want surfaces that are easier to
keep clean. On pitching fishing boat decks in the North Sea,
they will call for very course aluminum oxide to be back
rolled into the colorcoats for maximum slip resistance.
Education of the customer makes for an educated choice by
them.
•Many different surface treatment options are used on
TUFFLEX Membranes. A waterproof membrane concrete
under tile specification is available. 200,000 sq. ft. of
TUFFLEX Membrane was used to protect the concrete under
the Aquarium of the Americas in New Orleans. Cementicious
“Splatter Coats” and cementicious design pattern systems are
sometimes used on top of the membranes.
•When the rubber granule suface is specified, wait about 15 to
30 minutes until the membrane starts to set-up and then
broadcast to excess. Save the recovered granules for
reuse. A bag of rubber will broadcast about 250 sq. ft. to excess. A
recovery of about 1/3 of the rubber is about normal. (Refer to the
TUFFLEX ADVISORY “SURFACE TEXTURES ON TUFFLEX
MEMBRANES” for further information.)
TUFFLEX
COLORCOATS
ACCELERATOR:
AND
CURE
•Colorcoats dry from the moisture they derive from the air.
Never add water as with RBC.
•To assure color uniformity, thoroughly mix the solids up
from the bottom and “box” together any pails with different
batch numbers.
•Apply with a paint roller using “cross-hatched” strokes to
achieve a well bonded and even coat.
•Apply the colorcoat spread rate in accordance with the
specification in use.
•One-half
quart (one pint) of TUFFLEX Colorcoat
Accelerator will hasten the cure of one 5-gallon pail of
colorcoat. Refer to the TUFFLEX TECHNICAL BULLETIN
for Colorcoat Accelerator for further information.
ADVISORIES
SURFACE TEXTURES ON TUFFLEX MEMBRANES
TUFFLEX Membranes Systems are used in a wide variety of
applications, ranging from our “normal” walking deck systems with
rubber granules for slip resistance, to a 200,000 sq. ft. of bare
membrane under the Aquarium of the Americas in New Orleans.
That membrane was placed in order to waterproof and protect the
concrete and re-bar of the old water front docks that the park and
aquarium complex is built on. An interesting surface treatment!
“truncated cone” effect that provides a textured surface that is
much easier to clean and maintain in animal habitats. It is actually
“mop-able”. It looks like a fine rubber knock-down finish and
provides a nice random design surface that will stand up to much
harder usage than a smooth membrane with only a colorcoat finish.
It is also easy on bare feet, such as around a hot tub or swimming
pool.
TUFFLEX Membranes provide waterproof surfaces outdoors,
rustproof & flexible decking systems on storm-tossed ships and
thick seamless Mono-Mat Systems that provide sanitary cushioned
flooring for zoo and veterinary uses.
The trick to doing this surface is simple. The membrane and rubber
granule system is applied as usual. One light colorcoat is applied
and allowed to dry. Then the rubber granules can be sanded down
just a little to knock off the tips. Without a light colorcoat to
“stiffen” the rubber, the granules flex too much to sand. Then the
colorcoat is applied as normal at the specified rate. (Do not try this
system without some practice! It is very easy to over-sand the
granules and get an uneven look. Practice makes perfect!) Try it
when you have some left over materials. It’s a very versatile
surface option that you can add to your customer’s choices.
Surface treatments can run the gamut from smooth to very rough
for maximum slip resistance. (On the pitching decks of some North
Sea fishing boats, in addition to the rubber texture, the coatings
contractor also back-rolled large grit aluminum oxide into the
colorcoats for a really rough and traction enhanced surface. Not a
surface for everyone, but one that meets their particular needs on
storm tossed and pitching wet ship decks.)
No one surface texture can do it all. The end use customer has to be
involved in the texture choices and options in order to make an
informed decision. These options range from esthetics and cost
concerns to slip-and-fall safety needs. Informed customers are good
customers. They alone are responsible for making the final texture
decision.
The general rule of thumb is that the more aggressive the surface
texture, the harder it is to clean. For example, ski resorts need the
traction of a heavy texture for safety reasons and only worry about
clean-ability as a secondary concern. (Squaw Valley ski resort turns
fire hoses on their TUFFLEX decks.) In the interior uses at ski
resorts, the need for heavy traction enhancement is still there, so
they use wet-dry industrial floor cleaning machines to scrub and
vacuum up the dirty water. Cleaning is sometimes just a function of
changing the way it is done. Mops will catch and pull on any
textured surface, so when cleaning small areas, scrub with a stiff
broom and use a simple wet-dry vac to suck up the dirty water.
(Using a fire hose does seem like more fun though!)
Some coatings contractors use cementicious “knock-down” splatter
coats and decorative-pattern acrylic systems on top of the
TUFFLEX Membranes when reliable waterproofing is needed
underneath. Just follow the TUFFLEX
Specification
“Waterproofing Under Floor Tile Systems”, where a sand surface is
applied on top of the membrane for bonding purposes for the thin
set mastic and tile. Just substitute system in place of tile as the
surface treatment.
One interesting texture option finding a very strong acceptance in
the veterinary Mono-Mat System market is using rubber texture
granules and lightly sanding off their sharp tips. This leaves a
APPLICATION HINTS WHEN USING THE RUBBER
GRANULE SURFACE
The use of rubber granules for texture was first tried by TUFFLEX
in its very early days. Early development work was done as ski
resort in Lake Tahoe, CA. (What better place to test the limits of
decking materials. Weather extremes and ski boot wear & tear will
show the mettle of a coating material in a very short time!) Where
sand textures simply crush into powder under heavy traffic, the
rubber will grip, flex and snap back. The rubber texture is also
much quieter to walk on. Noise reduction at ski resorts and on
metal ship decks is noticeable.
Rubber granules also speed up the application process because they
can be broadcast onto the wet membrane and not sink in as sand
will. Even if some of the granules sink in, it is rubber into rubber,
and will not break down and cause pin holes as sand in the
membrane will. Wait 15 or so minutes after the membrane has been
applied to heavily broadcast the rubber granules on to rejection.
Experience is the best – and only! – teacher when it comes to
application techniques.
One 50 lbs. bag of texture rubber will broadcast about 250 sq. ft.
The idea is to apply an excessive amount of rubber to insure an
even application to the surface. If you try to “chicken feed” the
surface, it will end up looking uneven. It is best to broadcast to
rejection and bury the deck and sweep up the excess when the
membrane becomes walk-able. About 1/3 of the rubber can be
swept up and saved for re-use. Working out of bags is difficult,
they tip and fall over a lot! So it is much easier to transfer the
rubber to plastic trash cans with locking lids for storage, use and reuse. Also refer to the TUFFLEX ADVISORY “BACKROLLINGWhy, When & How” for additional information and hints.
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
ADVISORIES
BACKROLLING: WHY, WHEN & HOW
Backrolling is an important technique that adds versatility and
capability to the application of any flooring/decking materials
and/or systems. It is especially important with the TUFFLEX
Materials because it brings additional speed of application to an
already quickly applied system. Time is money!
The general idea if backrolling is to be able to apply texture
granules of choice; be it rubber, sand, aluminum oxide or copper
slag granules, at the same time as applying the topcoat sealer.
Backrolling can be done on old coated surfaces where the topcoat
is being re-applied because of wear & tear and/or aesthetics and on
new decks receiving their first topcoat application and where
additional texture is desired on all or part of the deck area.
EXISTING DECKS BEING RE-TOPCOATED
On decks that have an existing urethane decking system in place, a
TUFFLEX System or any other brand, that is being re-topcoated,
the need for additional texture is most likely needed only in certain
high wear areas of the deck. The areas on stair treads, pivot areas
at the top of stairs, door ingress/egress areas, elevator exit areas,
turning radius on vehicle traffic decks and such, tend to show
texture wear faster the general area of the field of the deck.
With the proper backrolling technique, the texture in those specific
high wear areas can be re-textured at the same time as the new
topcoat is being applied to the whole deck area.
When re-topcoating an existing system, refer to the TUFFLEX
ADVISORY “APPLICATION OF A NEW TOPCOAT” for
further information.
NEW DECKS HAVING THE TOPCOAT(S)
APPLIED FOR THE FIRST TIME
On new decks, the ability to add additional texture to the surface
while applying the original topcoat(s) to the deck speeds up the
total application process. Basically, you are doing two jobs at once
– adding additional texture at the same time as applying the
topcoat, making it a one step process.
Depending on the site specific requirements of the deck, only
some areas may need additional traction enhancement. As cited
above, they may be the very heavy wear & tear areas such as step
treads, pivot areas, ingress/egress areas and turning radius areas on
vehicle traffic decks and such.
BACKROLLING TECHNIQUE
and guide you. A little practice on scrap plywood will go a long
ways in preparing the applicator in perfecting this technique.
Practice makes perfect and the only real teacher is experience!
Backrolling is accomplished by mixing and applying the colorcoat
topcoat of choice normally to an area and then lightly and evenly
broadcast the additional texture of choice onto the wet surface. A
rate of about 20 to 30% or as needed.
You can use spiked shoes to walk out onto the wet surface to
backroll or do an area just large enough to reach across with your
roller and pole.
Extending and then placing the roller away from yourself, you
then pull back towards you, without applying any pressure, just the
weight of the roller and handle, in an even and smooth manner.
(Do not “push” the roller away from you as this will cause
clumping. Pull the roller, that’s why it’s called “backrolling!”)
This action will roll the material and texture together and spread it
out evenly and bonded together on the deck surface.
Repeat this cycle of topcoat application, light broadcast and
backrolling across the area to be coated and textured.
HINT: Apply the second coat first!
If you are only addressing specific high wear areas, such as stair
treads, turning radiuses and such, you can do them ahead of time
and then come back over them with one continuous topcoat
application without having to pause to do the broadcast and
backroll cycle during the full application process. In other words,
apply the “second” coat & texture granules to the areas where it is
needed first, then apply the full topcoat over the entire deck in one
continuous process!
Identify the areas to be done ahead of time and apply a thin “tac”
coat
(10 +/- mils/160 sq. ft. per gallon.) of the chosen
topcoat material and backroll the additional texture into this coat.
This will lock down the added texture so when the full topcoat
application is done at the specified rate of coverage and thickness,
these areas have already been done and a seamless and even final
finish is accomplished over the top of these areas to blend them in
and really lock the texture down.
This can be done on old decks that are being recoated or on new
decks that are receiving their first topcoat(s).
Remember, practice makes perfect!
CAUTION: Do not try this application technique without some
practice or the aid of someone experienced in backrolling to help
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
ADVISORIES
SURFACE BLISTERS & HOW TO AVOID THEM
Every coatings application contractor, and his crew, should
understand the conditions that can cause blisters and how to
prevent them.
There is nothing inherent in properly mixed TUFFLEX Base
Membrane Material (BMM) that causes surface blisters. What can
cause them usually involves someone’s carelessness in one of the
situations identified below.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Lack of sufficient water, 15% minimum, to properly
catalyzed the material.
Whipping air into the material during mixing.
Unbroken dry lumps of rubber or sand filler material.
The expansion of air trapped in substrate pits and
depressions.
The conversion of substrate moisture into water vapor
during rising temperature conditions during application
process.
Substrate surface contamination.
These six conditions known to cause surface blisters are
explained in detail below along with suggestions and prevention
and repair.
1. The catalyzing water must be mixed into the TUFFLEX
Resin Binder Concentrate (RBC) within the range of 15 to 25%.
(One quart of water per gallon of RBC.) Going below 15%
might not provide enough water to completely catalyze the mass
of resin binder material. Any amount of water over 25% will not
readily mix into the Resin Binder and can cause voids, holidays
or excessive shrinkage. Without its water catalyst, the RBC
must revert to curing from only what moisture it can get from
the air, just as “old technology” urethanes must do, which is
why they can only be applied in thin paint like layers.
With the normally thicker TUFFLEX Membrane application,
the top air-exposed surface would soon cure to a hardened skin.
Under the skin, curing would slowly continue from what air
could get through the skin, with the result that by product of
urethane curing, small carbon dioxide mini-bubbles, would be
trapped below the skin with no way to release. These can
accumulate into blisters and the blisters can even merge into
large areas of delimitation from the substrate. (A sign of not
enough water is the membrane taking on a foam-like appearance
on the inside. Not enough water added to completely catalyze
the mass of the resin binder.)
2. The careless whipping-in of excess air during mixing must be
avoided. It is recommended that mixing paddle speeds be kept
low, 300 rpm and that the mixing head be kept at the bottom of
the mixing bucket and not raised & lowered in a “jack-hammer”
motion. When adding that catalyzing water, let it be pulled
down into the bottom of the mixture by the mixing paddle
action, a smooth and even blend will occur in about 30 seconds
with a minimum of entrapped air.
If the whipped in air fails to escape prior to the membrane
setting up it will appear as air bubbles just under the surface that
will expand and contract with the temperature. These must be
cut out and patched prior to colorcoating.
3. Dry granule lumps contain air. Not only can large lumps
make a physical bulge in the membrane but they also contain air
that will expand in raising temperature and cause blisters. As
above, the trapped air will cause a blister and must be cut out
and patched.
4. The careless application of Base Membrane Mixture (BMM)
over the top of unfilled substrate holes can trap air that may not
bleed out prior to the membrane setting up. Very rough and/or
porous substrates should be properly primed and prepped prior
to membrane application. Double priming may be needed to fill
all of the mini-pores in a degraded substrate.
5. It is important to recognize and avoid the combination of a
moisture soaked substrate and a rising temperature condition
that can change the water-vapor of greater volume. Water vapor
will out-gas from the substrate that has just been over coated
with a fluid base membrane (NO matter what brand) and will
tend to cause blistering if it does not completely pass through. If
in doubt, apply the BMM during the descending temperatures of
the afternoon.
6. A failure to remove any contaminations and/or “bongbreakers” from the substrate surface could prevent the secure
bonding fo the membrane. Where there is no bond, there is
delimitation and the air in the void can expand into a blister.
Bond breakers may consist of a variety of previously applied or
spilled materials. Concrete form-release oils, paint, sealers or
other previously applied overlay systems that have failed.
“You’re only as good as your substrate,” is the watch work of
coatings contractors. A crude, but practical, test is to sprinkle
water on the substrate and observe its penetration. If it beads up,
a sealer or other bond breaker is present and must be removed to
assure proper bonding. A test patch is always advised if there is
any question of bonding problems.
The above points are also applicable to many other brands of
membrane and paint systems and products. TUFFLEX does not
have control over the end use and application of its products so
the coatings contractor applying the materials and systems in the
field must assume the responsibility of proper substrate
preparation, proper detailing work and proper membrane
application.
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
ADVISORIES
COVING DETAILS WITH TUFFLEX MIXTURES
TUFFLEX Resin Binder Concentrate (RBC) can have fine rubber
granules added in order to thicken the material to a viscosity that
will allow for the application of a flexible coving detail. The
ingredient proportions can be varied over a wide range in order to
achieve the proper mixture depending on site specific temperature
and application conditions.
This mixture can be endlessly adjusted as site conditions dictate.
The two rules of thumb when adding filler materials are:
To create a straight line at the top of a cove, a masking type tape is
applied to the wall with the coving mixture feather edged onto it.
The tape should always be removed before the TUFFLEX
Material sets up because the cured material will tear the tape and
cause an uneven edge. The tape may have to be re-applied if
colorcoat is applied but taking the time to double tape is still
faster than having to cut the tape out of the cured out membrane
material and then also have to re-tape.
1. If you need the TUFFLEX Mixture thick, mix it thick. If
you need it thin, mix it thin. (Add more or less rubber granules!)
2. Don’t forget to add the water!
In other words, mix thick or thin as needed and throw in about
25% water!
A starting formula would consist of:
1 part TUFFLEX RBC
1 ¾ to 2 parts of rubber granules
25% catalyzing water.
A cement mason’s inside corner step tool is commonly used for
coving and should have a cove radius of ½ to ¾ inch. Do not use a
sharp 90 degree tool as it will not leave enough material into the
cove detail to allow for proper flexing and movement of the joint.
As with all other construction techniques from pounding nails to
applying a coving detail, a little practice and experimenting goes a
long ways!
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
ADVISORIES
MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING GUIDELINES
FOR SURFACING SYSTEMS
TUFFLEX overlay systems only require minimal care and
maintenance but like any other coating, some must inevitably be
done.
Cleaning can usually be accomplished by using a long-handled
stiff bristle brush with biodegradable detergent and water to
loosen the dirt. Then hose off the surface. The more aggressive
the surface textures, the more attention that will have to be paid
to keeping it clean. For large areas an automated floor cleaner
that applies the water, scrubs the surface and then vacuums up
the dirty water, can be used. A wet-dry vac can be used in small
areas to pick up the dirty water if hosing off is not practical.
The sooner stains are cleaned up, the better the results will be.
The longer stains are unattended to, the harder they are to
remove.
box runoff is not allowed to cause deep staining from their soilsalts, plant food and fertilizer.
Make sure that patio furniture, both hard plastic and metal, has
protective caps where they contact the overlay. Use coasters if
the caps are missing.
The use of Astro-Turf or other outdoor carpets are not advised
since they hold moisture and stains against the overlay below.
Physical damage to the overlay should be immediately brought
to the attention of the contractor that installed the TUFFLEX
System.
With proper attention and maintenance, TUFFLEX Systems
have an exceptional longevity. For best results, contact your
application contractor at 5 year intervals for an inspection.
Special care should be taken that potted plants and planter
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
ADVISORIES
APPLICATION OF A NEW TOPCOAT
When recoating a previously topcoated urethane system,
the following guidelines should be followed.
1. Thoroughly clean the deck surface by pressure washing and/or
scrubbing with a stiff deck brush. If soiling is present, use light
cleaning agents, such as TSP. When washing these cleaners off
the deck, do not leave any residue on the surface that could act as a
de-bonding agent.
2. The deck surface must be completely dry prior to recoating.
3. For problem areas, or where grease or oil may be present,
solvent wipe the area. This may be accomplished by using a rag,
lightly dampened paint roller or a rag wrapped around a deck
brush to scrub and clean up the area. Do not pour solvent directly
onto the deck surface. Use caution around open flames, water
heaters or other heat source. Make sure no solvent is allowed to
pond. Wipe up any solvent and allow the area to dry completely.
Make sure the solvent is approved in the local jurisdiction where it
is being used. Do not use an alcohol based solvent. Indoors or
outdoors, make sure the area is well ventilated.
4. Mix the interlaminate primer specified and apply it sparingly.
Primers work best when applied thin. Let the primer cure as per
the TECHNICAL BULLETIN on the primer used.
5. When the primer has dried, apply the Specified Topcoat. Since
this is a recoat, a full thickness of topcoat does not need to be
applied. Apply the chosen topcoat at one-half the normally
specified thickness or 10 mils/160 sq. ft. per gallon.
6. If some of the heavy traffic areas need to be re-textured, refer to
the TUFFLEX ADVISORY “BACKROLLING, Why, When &
How” for further information on how to address those areas. On
some decks that have had multiple coats of topcoat applied over
the years, the traction enhancement has been “buried” by the
layers of topcoat, so some additional traction may have to be
backrolled into the newest topcoat application for additional
traction enhancement and/or safety concerns.
FINAL NOTES:
Always read the TUFFLEX TECHNICAL BULLETINS and
MSDS information regarding all materials used during the
recoating process.
As with any coatings application, proper surface preparation,
whether on a new deck or a recoat, is one of the most important
parts of a successful project.
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
ADVISORIES
RESIN BINDER CATALYST &
COLORCOAT ACCELERATOR
Optional for TUFFLEX Resin Binder Concentrate
(RBC):
The final curing rate for the mixed and applied
TUFFLEX Base Membrane Mixture (BMM) may be
speeded up or accelerated with the use of the optional
Resin Binder Catalyst.
There may be times when it becomes important to
expedite the final curing rate of an applied TUFFLEX
Membrane System, such as when early access must be
accommodated or in cooler application temperatures
(under 70 degrees) when all coatings take longer to set
up. By using the Resin Binder Catalyst, the working and
application time is shortened by a small amount but the
final cure time is substantially shortened by about onethird what would be to one-half the normal set-up time.
The TUFFLEX Resin Binder Catalyst is available in 1ounce vials and in one-quart cans. The Catalyst is
tinted green for identification purposes. Depending on
site temperature conditions up to three 1-ounce vials may
be added to a 5-gallon pail of TUFFLEX RBC Base
Membrane for maximum effect.
Optional Accelerator for TUFFLEX Colorcoats:
TUFFLEX Urethane Colorcoats are moisture cured
materials that derive their drying action by drawing
moisture only from the air. (Unlike the TUFFLEX RBC
Base Membrane, water is never added to the colorcoats!)
The optional Colorcoat Accelerator will aid the colorcoat
to accelerate its ability to pull curing moisture out of the
air at a faster rate than the untreated colorcoat material.
The additional cost of the Colorcoat Accelerator is often
off-set by the ability to open up or return to service a
coated area quicker.
RESIN BINDER CATALYST & COLORCOAT ACCELERATOR (06)
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦ 10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309
TECHNICAL BULLETIN
EPOXY FLOORING
PROTECTION AND MAINTENANCE
GENERAL
Floors receive more abuse than walls, or any other area in a
building. Floors have many kinds of products spilled on
them, all kinds of heavy items dragged over them, and all
kinds of light and heavy loads passing over them. Dirt,
itself, is an abrasive and with people carrying it in on their
shoes, the floor surface is bound to be scratched. If abrasive
dirt and other spilled items are not occasionally removed
they may become imbedded ground into surface leaving an
undesirable appearance.
All flooring and decking materials require some
maintenance. TUFFLEX flooring materials have been
specifically designed with tough wearing finish surfaces.
While they are more maintenance free than most materials,
they do require some maintenance care. How much care
depends on the level of appearance the owner desires, the
amount of abuse given the floors, and the dedication of the
maintenance staff in carrying out the established
maintenance program.
TUFFLEX epoxy flooring systems benefit from a regular,
thorough maintenance program. All floors tend to wear,
becoming somewhat defaced by traffic grinding dirt into
the floor. Regular removal of the dirt will improve the
appearance and prolong the live of the floor. The periodic
application of wax and/or polish will lubricate and protect
the floor similar to the way oil prevents engine wear.
TEMPORARY PROTECTION
TUFFLEX epoxy floors require up to 7 days to fully cure
and reach their optimum wear and chemical resistance,
depending on drying conditions. During this period, the
flooring surface should be protected by restricting traffic
and/or by covering with protective paper or plywood.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
Frequency of maintenance depends on the volume and type
of traffic. The following recommendations should be used
as a guide in establishing an acceptable maintenance
program.
1. Frequently sweep or dust with a commercial sweeping
compound.
2. As required, wash floor with warm water and free
rinsing, low sudsing detergent, following detergent
manufacturer’s directions.
• Wet mop solution onto floor.
• Scrub to loosen adhered dirt. Power scrubbing is
recommended for large or heavily soiled areas.
• Flush off soiled wash water with squeegee or wet
vacuum and discard.
• Do not re-use soiled water.
3. Rinse thoroughly with clean free running water, where
area permits. Squeegee to drain or pick up with wet/dry
vacuum to remove all residual soil and detergent.
4. For floors subjected to heavy traffic, apply a waterbased, non-ambering liquid floor wax or sealer. Remove
floor wax periodically, with an ammoniated heavy-duty
stripper – rinse and allow to dry before refinishing. Contact
your local janitorial supplier for recommendations.
Numerous cleaners and floor wax sealers are available.
Select a reputable manufacturer and complete a test area. In
areas subjected to spillage of foods, oils, fats, etc., such as
in a food preparation area, schedule frequent and thorough
cleanings. A simple hot cleaning solution often puts the fat
residue into suspension until the cleaner cools down and
the fat re-solidifies once again, leaving a slippery film on
the surface. As a preventive measure, use a free rinsing
detergent with plenty of water.
NOTE: A slip-resistant finish is available and desired for
most TUFFLEX epoxy floors. However, as the degree of
non-slip characteristics increases, the ease of cleaning
decreases and may require cleaning by power spray wash.
REFINISHING
Some owners prefers to refinish their TUFFLEX epoxy
floors, if they become worn in heavy traffic areas, or when
equipment is relocated, in lieu of a regular maintenance
program. This is a simple operation with most floors,
involving surface preparation, plus additional finish coats
to restore the original new appearance. Contact your
TUFFLEX Applicator for detailed information on
refinishing. Periodic refinishing can, in some instances, be
less expensive than a regular maintenance program.
EPOXY FLOORING MAINTENANCE (06)
TUFFLEX POLYMERS, LLC ♦10880 Poplar Avenue ♦ Fontana, California 92337
Phone: (909) 349-2016 ♦ (888) TUFFLEX ♦ Fax: (909) 823-6309