1. sports
2. surfing and bodyboarding

How to Build Your First Surfboard
By Stephen Pirsch
INTRODUCTION
The following will help guide you around the pitfalls of building your first surfboard.
Hopefully, with this help you won't have to learn like I did...by making every mistake
possible. This manual is for the garage or backyard builder who has few tools and little
money.
You can make a board that is functionally equal to a showroom board but it probably won't be
as cosmetically perfect. If you are willing to invest in non-conventional materials you can
have a functionally superior surfboard. Please consider that the surfboard building industry
has not changed significantly in 50 years. Please consider some of the alternatives offered
here.
At this point you might ask yourself, do I really want to do this? Is it worth saving roughly
half the showroom board cost? This saving could be perceived to be reduced to 1/4 if you
bought all new tools, etc. If you make decent money and you don't get any particular sense of
satisfaction from physically making things, I say, think about it. It's dusty, gooey, sweaty, and
toxic work, and the pro shops all do a decent (although somewhat disposable) job. You might
consider reading this in order to gain information on how to custom order a more durable
surfboard from a shop. If you simply want to save money take a look at used boards. Also
look at the inexpensive and, well made Bic, Nsp and, Southpoint surfboards.
On the positive side, it can be very rewarding. Almost everyone I know that has made one
has made more. Much of the work and expense on the first board (such as racks, blocks and
tools) won't have to be duplicated on following boards.
Please consider reading through the entire booklet before making any purchases. There is a lot
to decide. Please be aware that I will suggest you do some things in the following instructions
that do not at first make sense or do not seem worth doing. If you asked a pro builder about it
he would probably say, "don't bother". These odd suggestions will save you from problems
that I have seen repeated by most first timers.
DESIGN
Deciding on surfboard shape is probably the most important part of making your board.
Please consider the possibility of keeping your options open. It seems that many surfers are
riding designs that do not maximize the fun they could have on the type of waves they are
riding. Often it seems the image a surfer thinks he will portray is affecting his design
decision. Please consider riding something different than what your friends ride, or what the
pro's ride. The best way to simplify your decision, I've seen, is to ride as many different
boards as possible. This is important. It is unlikely you will ever know what is best suited to
you if you do not experiment. One hour surfing a different board is better than ten hours
reading about design or listening to opinions. Most surfers will let you try their board for a
few minutes, especially if they can use yours. Of course there are always your friends or
rentals. Find a board you like a lot then copy it or modify it. You may decide you like one
board for its maneuverability and another for its easy wave catching and make something in
between.
I love seeing all types of surfboards but I feel that the biggest design drawback is building too
small (too thin, too narrow, too short). This appears to be a common problem with all types
of surfboards. My friends and me are happier surfers now that we are designing for the
average conditions of ourselves and our home break. Many people quit trying to surf simply
because their board is too hard to paddle and catch waves.
The following paragraph contains what me and many other board builders believe is generally
true about board design. 1. A relatively wide, thick, long shape with flat rocker and flat rail
to rail is generally better suited to small or slow waves. 2. A relatively narrow, thin, short
shape with more than average rocker and more than average convex curve (belly) rail to rail is
generally better for fast, hollow or, large waves ( I'm not talking about 15' plus waves). 3. A
relatively long fin(s) or one placed towards the tail end will make turns having a larger radius
and having a feeling of projection (energy is transferred strongly from one direction to
another). 4. A relatively short fin(s) or one placed towards the nose will make shorter radius
turns and will have a feeling of looseness (board will turn easily but slide somewhat). 5.
Sharp down turned rails are better suited for snappy, gouging turns in smooth water
conditions (sharp and down turned only in the rear quarter transitioning to rounder rails in the
front). 6. Round rails will make smoother turns and are more forgiving (especially in choppy
conditions). 7. Whatever preconceived notion a person has about the type of board he wants
to ride is more likely to determine what he rides than what is best suited for the conditions!
The book, Essential Surfing has a lot of good design information.
If you're new to surfing or riding mostly small waves consider the following guidelines: 1/2"
thickness for each 25 lb. of body wt. and 2' longer than you are tall. To be more technical
consider .50 cubic feet of foam per 25 lb. of body weight (the Clark Foam catalog has the
cubic foot numbers for each blank for free online at www.foamez.com - you can adjust the
size of the catalog by clicking the % box at the top of the screen). For example; a 150lb.
surfer divided by 25 equals 6. 6 times .50 = 3 cubic feet of foam. You need to add at least
5% (1/4") for shaping losses which brings the example to 3.15 cubic feet. Simply look at the
displacement number (cubic feet of foam) in the catalog for the blank that fits your number.
If you pick a blank within 10% of your number you will have a good wave catcher.
Remember to add 10 lbs to your weight if you wear a wetsuit often when surfing. Consider
these guidelines as maximum. More is not likely better in this case.
It is actually possible to simply pick a blank out of the Clark Foam catalog that looks about
right and end up with a board you really like. With a little luck you will be able to pick out the
blank your model board was made from. Regardless of luck I recommend you make the
measurements below. Most surfers seem to be able to easily feel the difference of only 1/2"
in rocker (bottom curve) or width and only 1/4" in thickness. The majority of surfboards
made with Clark Foam have had the rocker changed by Clark Foam (at the request of the
buyer) when buying. It matters. In order for you to be able control the riding characteristics
of your board you will most likely need to get a lot of measurements from your chosen
board(s). It is worth the trouble (See Figure 1&2).
I feel it is very important that I hammer a point home here. You need to know exactly what
you want (within 1/2" in rocker, width and, length, and 1/4" in thickness) before, I repeat,
before you order your blank. It is more than a major hassle to try and adjust it later. It is
often impractical or impossible. If you order the right blank with the right rocker it will be
very easy to shape because the shape is already what you want. All you have to do is remove
the crust, light sand, do a few details and, you’re done! If measuring is too much trouble I
recommend you not build your own board.
To get these measurements and transfer them to your new foam blank (or better yet simply
pick the blank with these measurements) you will need a tape measure and 1-10' piece of
electrical metallic tubing. You can use anything perfectly straight and as long as your board.
Electrical metallic tubing is available at Lowe's etc. for $1-$2. Make sure it's straight (sight
down its length while turning).
To get and transfer the measurements in Figure 2, you must mark the center points of the
original surfboard bottom and the electrical metallic tubing. Roughly level the surfboard by
putting a level over the center mark and, parallel to the stringer (wood center piece of
surfboard). If the surfboard is on the ground you will probably have to put something under
the tail, if on stands slide it nose forward. Balance the center mark of the electrical metallic
tubing over the center mark of the surfboard and parallel to the stringer. Center a magnetic
torpedo level over the center mark of the electrical metallic tubing (magnet will stick). You
will probably have to shift the level of the surfboard to get the electrical metallic tubing to
level exactly (bubble in center) over the center marks (see Figure 3).
Once level get the measurements shown in Figure 2, (at the ends, 6'' from the ends, and 1'
from the ends) and write them down. You may repeat this process when you begin to shape
your foam blank.
If possible lay the original board down on roofing felt, paper, cardboard etc. and trace out 1/2
the outline longwise (If you trace it 100% it won't be symmetrical, trust me)! Cut it out, roll it
up, and save it (see Figure 4). Note; if you know you will order a blank that will not need to
be modified this step can be skipped.
Next get measurements on (1) distance of fin box or fin(s) from tail end, (2) angle of fin(s),
(twin or tri fins only - you could cut paper/cardboard etc. to match the angle or use angle
finder tool). (3) distance of fin front edge and rear edge from stringer (twin or tri fins only, see
FINS). Also get at least one thickness measurement at the thickest part of the board.
Again, look at the Clark Foam blank catalog and rocker catalog. You can get these for free
from Clark Foam 714-582-1431. You can also view or download these for free from
www.foamez.com and www.fiberglasssupply.com Clark Foam makes over 70 different
blanks and many rockers within each blank. They will make almost any rocker for you on any
blank for no extra cost (how to order rocker is explained in their catalog). Pick the blank and
rocker that is the closest to your desired measurements. This is important! The densest Clark
Foam is near the surface. The less foam you shape off, the stronger your board will be, the
less work you will have to do, and the less likely it is you will make a mistake. Many first
time builders look through the catalog and carefully reason that they should pick something
somewhat oversize to make up for any mistakes they might make. Please try to resist this
thinking. Somewhere in those 70 blanks will be one that is very close to what you want your
finished product to be. Again, what you want is to pick the exact blank you need with the
exact rocker you need, plane off the surface crust, lightly sand, do a few details and, you are
done shaping!
In contradiction, some of my friends and me like to experiment with unusual shapes. In order
to get the widths and thickness we want we have been cutting the tails off longer blanks (I do
not recommend doing this on your first board). We found that for every 1' cut off the tail end
of a blank we would lose about 1/2" of rocker in the nose. Remember to ask for extra nose
rocker if you are cutting a foot or more off the tail (the tail rocker will usually not change
significantly).
You may know how much rocker you need and where but are confused on how to state your
order. If so simply say the amount and the place. For example: If the board you want has 5"
of nose rocker at the tip and, the blank you want has 4&1/2" at the tip in the catalog, you
could say, "plus one half inch nose". If you can not decide what rocker to order consider the
unmodified (natural) catalog rocker shown in the picture ( If you choose to get a stringerless
board or one with glue only the natural rocker is the only one you can pick). Also you could
look through the rocker catalog and pick the first rocker listed. The first rocker is the most
popular rocker ordered for that blank.
Consider the 1/12" basswood stringer. This is the Clark Foam "standard" stringer. It's an extra
charge for most other stringers. Consider that break tests done on surfboards indicate that a
surfboard with a light stringer (1/12" is light) and heavy glass is stronger than a surfboard of
the same weight with a heavy stringer and light glass.
You will also need to decide on how light a blank to choose. Clark Foam presently comes in
seven weights. Super blue is their biggest seller right now, and is the "standard" for showroom
boards. Consider super green or classic if denting has been a big problem or you weigh over
160 lbs. Consider super light or ultra light if you insist on a very light board and are willing
to invest in higher strength materials such as epoxy/ "S" cloth or epoxy/ carbon fiber This
will all become clearer after you read the Clark Foam catalog and, the rest of this book.
Once you have decided on the blank, order from foamez or fiberglasssupply. You can save
money by having your blank held at the central shipping warehouse (to be picked up by you)
in your city rather than delivered to your home. See also POLYSTYRENE.
If, after reading this chapter and especially the chapter on glassing, you are unsure what
materials to use, use the following; super blue Clark Foam with 1/12" basswood stringer
glassed with "E" cloth (amount as in GLASSING) and simlar249 resin. This combination is
economical and time proven.. Please do not short cut your blank decision process. Ride a lot
of boards!
STANDS AND BLOCKS
Now you need to make surfboard stands (see figures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9). I recommend the stands in
Figure 7 (the buckets can be moved and re-leveled anywhere and the blank can be placed rail
up). It will help greatly to be able to move your blank outside in the bright sunlight when you
are doing the finishing touches. Please keep the pipe foam shown in the figures wrapped with
masking tape (black pipe foam will stain white blank foam and glass job). Try to keep the
stands level by periodically putting the torpedo level across the tops. Remember, most of the
time and money you are spending now will not have to be repeated on following boards.
Most of the stand and block materials can be found in construction site trash piles. Even if
you happen to have a power sander or power planer the following blocks or something very
similar will be needed.
Make 1-10"x4.5"x1" wood block and screw #16 floor sanding paper to it as shown in Figure
10. #12, or #16, or #20 is available at many floor sanding machine rental companies.
www.fiberglasssupply.com has #16 disk (many of the processes that follow assume you have
this grit). If you have to choose between #12 and #20 get the #12. It will make it much easier
to get the crust off the blank. Another alternative is to order 1-9" #16 sanding disk from
www.fiberglasssupply.com and screw it to an 8" block in place of the 10" above.
Also make 1-10"x3.5"x1" wood block and cover as in Figure 10 with #50 Belt sanding paper
etc.
Finally make 1-26"x3.5"x1" wood block and cover as in Figure 10 with #50 belt sanding
paper etc It is especially important that this block be very straight and flat (not warped).
These sizes don't have to be exact but try to use the listed grits (#16, #50).
Figure 7 Note: 3&7/8" gap above is foam to foam. Wood to wood is 4&7/8". A 2x4 is
actually 1&5/8" thick. Stands are 5 - 2x4's wide at widest point.
Figure 8 Note: This stand works better if you leave the lid off the top bucket and wrap pipe
foam completely around the top edge.
SHAPING
Now you're finally ready to shape your piece of art. I'll be assuming you are using a Clark
blank here. If not see POLYSTYRENE. If you have ordered a blank that is exactly what you
need (without shaping modifications) you will be able to skip a lot of the steps here. Ideally
you can plane off the crust, lightly sand, do a few details and, you are done shaping! If you
are not sure then please do not skip anything.
Put your blank bottom up on your rack. Line up the 1/2 template with the stringer and trace it
on the blank with a "Sharpie" pen. Flip the template over and trace it on the other half.
Take a hand saw (almost any saw will do) and cut about 1/2" outside the lines. Try to make
sure the saw is cutting at a 90 degree angle to the blank. If not the extra 1/2" should make up
for the crookedness. Take your #16 block and gradually sand the foam down closer and closer
to the lines. Stop when you are about 1/8" from the line all around.
Next make the rail marker tool in Figure 11.
Turn the blank bottom down and slide the rail marker along the bottom of the blank. The
marker should be touching the rail marking a continuous line approximately
1/2"-1&1/4"(depends on board thickness) above the bottom rail edge all the way around the
blank. Leave this line until the end of your shaping. If it gets erased re-mark it. All this trouble
will save you from a major screw-up.
Notice that the blank has a hard outer crust. You will need to remove this 1/8" layer. Be
careful, the crust takes a lot of work to remove but after barely going through it, it becomes
softer and softer. Once through you can gouge a dip without trying to. The cheapest and
easiest tool to use for crust removal is a small block plane. This tool will later be used for
planning down the stringer. Set the small block plane blades at a shallow depth so only the
crust is being removed. You can also use your #16 sanding block.
Level the blank and level the center of the electrical metallic tubing over the center of the
blank. Take measurements as you did in DESIGN. Compare the design numbers with the
blank numbers. If the rocker numbers are off more than 1/2" you will probably want to start
removing stringer material and foam with your small block plane and #16 block. Please make
sure you will have enough blank thickness when you finish planning the rocker. Plane the
stringer to the proper rocker numbers, then plane or sand the foam. Take care to not "scrub"
the foam in one area, causing a dip. All the curvature must blend into the whole. It would be
better to be 1/2" off your desired numbers and have a smooth curvature than have perfectly
agreeing numbers with dips It is better to fill the dips with interior/exterior lightweight
spackling than to over thin your blank. The ideal situation is to have ordered the correct
rocker when you bought the blank. If not go slowly here. I have seen more than one person
become so obsessed with perfectly agreeing numbers that the board became much thinner
than they wanted.
After the rocker is acceptable and the crust is completely removed do everything very
gradually, and symmetrically, with light pressure. You will mostly be creating the curvature
of the rails now. With the bottom down, go around and around the blank rails with the #16
block. Do the exact same things on each side. Count 10x's clockwise then 10x's
counterclockwise. Stay away from, or only touch very lightly, the black areas in Figure 12
(avoid on top side only).
If you have a hole or dip to fill you can use interior/exterior lightweight spackling to fill it in.
Turn the blank bottom up and shape the bottom rails with the same #16 block.
Take your racks and blank outside and line the stringer up with the direction of the sun. As
the sun changes position change your racks to keep the light perfectly even. This will make it
very easy to see all the little dips and bumps you might otherwise miss. Note: even shade is
O.K. (clouds and buildings). Tree shade is the worst.
Take your #50 long block and start sanding the bottom. Sand with block parallel to the
stringer. Use a light, continuous motion longwise from end to end. 10x's back and forth on
one side then 10x's on the other. Keep sighting down the blank for uneven spots. If uneven
repeat. Don't try to remove dips and bumps by scrubbing at them in one place. Blend them
into the whole with continuous long strokes. Don't try to correct uneven spots that are less
than 1/8". You'll drive yourself crazy!
Make sure the tops of the racks are level with the torpedo level. Slide the level across the
bottom of the blank holding it perpendicular to the stringer. You can put it on top of
something that is very flat and about 2' long (long block-wood side down) A long level is nice
too. If the level bubble is outside the center lines sand until it is (not perfect just within the
lines). Look underneath the level/block as you slide it along the length of the blank. You
will see high and low spots on the foam and /or stringer. Mark the high spots with the
"Sharpie". Plane down the stringer to just below the foam level with your block plane. Sand
off the marked areas until within 1/8". Run the long block parallel to and very lightly around
the bottom rails (just a few light passes to eliminate hard to see dips).
Turn the blank top up and use the long block as before (stay away from areas in Figure 12).
Use your block plane as before. Start sanding using the #50 small block as you did the long
one. Keep sighting aligned with the sun. If you see dips and bumps you should even them out
with the long block. Now, #50 short block in hand, start blending the areas in figure 12 into
the whole. Please go lightly here. Keep the block mostly sideways as you push through the
nose curve. There is a strong tendency to gouge a dip here.
Next turn the board rail up (if possible). Your black rail lines should still be there. Run your
long block very lightly all around above below and finally at the line. Try to do exactly the
same number of passes in the same areas in the same direction on each side. Take a sheet or
belt of #50 sandpaper. Stretch it between both hands and push it down firmly enough to make
it curve around the top rail curve. Now walk it down the entire length of rail. Do this quickly
and ease up on the nose and tail. Do both sides until the rails are blended perfectly.
Pass the block plane at least one more time on the top and bottom stringer until it is even or
just below the foam. If you leave the stringer sticking up the glass is likely to crack. You will
notice that the block plane doesn't work around the top nose curve. Adjust your block plane
to a slightly deeper depth (only for this area).
Finish the fine details in the sun. Put it somewhere safe and leave it alone until you glass it,
which should be soon!
POLYSTYRENE
I recommend you not use polystyrene block foam on your first board. Shaping a partially preshaped pre-stringered Clark blank is much easier. If you live somewhere far from a Clark
Foam warehouse you might be tempted to save shipping costs (which can exceed $100.) by
using local block foam. However, there are easier ways to save money if you are determined.
You could try to save on shipping costs by ordering with another person(s). The shipping is
the same if you order 1 blank or 4. Surfboard making companies will usually order for you
but they usually charge about $50.
You might save money by using polystyrene and you might make a lighter, stronger
board, but you will require probably four times more labor to shape polystyrene blocks. If
you are considering polystyrene simply because of weight consider using a Clark foam super
light or ultra light blank with no stringer covered with "S" cloth or carbon fiber as in
GLASSING. A stringerless ultra light blank will be virtually identical in weight to a
polystyrene blank with a small stringer.
Consider that when you use polystyrene foam you need to use epoxy resin to saturate the
fiberglass cloth (laminate layer) (most surfboards have 3 resin layers; the laminate coat, hot
coat, and gloss coat). (see EPOXY). Epoxy resin is necessary because polyester resin has
styrene in it and will dissolve the styrene in polystyrene foam. Epoxy resin is roughly twice
as fracture resistant as polyester resin and a little more than twice as expensive. Consider that
besides the extra labor, much of the money you saved on polystyrene foam will be lost on the
extra cost of the epoxy.
Finally, keep in mind that if you choose expanded polystyrene (beaded foam) and it gets even
a small hole or crack it will suck water at an astonishing rate! This may not seem to make
sense because we have all seen stryrofoam floats and ice chests and they do not appear to
absorb water. It is very different when you put a shell around it. The water temperature is
usually cooler than the air when you surf. This temperature difference creates a vacuum
which will draw in water if the shell is fractured. Keep a five minute epoxy repair kit handy
(available at Lowe's etc.) and immediately fix all fractures. Some polystyrene sailboards are
now made with screw out plugs/vents. Be aware that some shop owners distort the truth by
stating their "special“ expanded polystyrene foam does not absorb water. Polyurethane
(Clark) foam and extruded polystyrene (see bottom of this page) are much less water
absorbent in a fractured shell.
For all of these reasons, I believe a polystyrene blank is only worth considering if you want a
very light board (maybe two pounds lighter).
On the good side, polystyrene/epoxy boards are more damage resistant than
polyurethane/polyester boards. Most people are happy with their expanded polystyrene/epoxy
boards. So, if you are still determined to go with the polystyrene, here is what I suggest you
do...
You can buy expanded polystyrene blanks which are partially shaped with stringers from
www.surfource.net or buy block foam from a local supplier (if possible). Most large cities
will have listings in the yellow pages under "foam". Example: if you wanted an 8' board
order 2-8'1"x24"x6" blocks of 2lb. expanded polystyrene.
I believe it makes sense to make a polystyrene board with no stringer. This is because I
believe the best reason for making a polystyrene board is less weight and, leaving out the
stringer will make it even lighter. If you intend to do without a stringer I recommend all "S"
cloth or carbon fiber cloth with the amounts as in GLASSING. I do not recommend a
stringerless board for hollow waves and/or thin boards (more likely to break in half). If you
need a stringer go to Lowe's etc. and buy the cheapest 4'x8'x1/8" paneling. This should be
under $10. Draw your stringer out on roofing felt or cardboard etc. Use the rocker and
thickness measurements from the original board as in the DESIGN section and transfer them
to roofing felt/cardboard etc. Also, with a helper, you could hold the original board with its
side perpendicular to the roofing felt/cardboard and trace it as best you can. Make it at least
1/4" bigger than you want it when finished shaping. If making a stringer, transfer this to the
paneling. If not making a stringer transfer it to two blank edges. Cut the stringer with a
handsaw etc. and go over the edges with a surform pocket plane etc. Rough the stringer on
both sides with #16 paper etc. This can be done with a 5" rubber backing disk on your drill.
You may try to economize and add uv-protection by using polyester resin on the hot coat and
gloss coat. This is what the pro shops do. Usually this is not economical for one board due to
the high unit cost of resin in small amounts. I recommend all epoxy on your first polystyrene
board.
On the four 8' edge on the 2 foam blocks mark out the outline of the stringer (2 edges
if stringerless). Make sure they will all line up exactly with each other when you glue in the
stringer as in Figures 13&14.
Use 6oz. total epoxy resin/hardener (see GLASSING and EPOXY). Brush 3 oz. on each side.
This will probably seem like too little epoxy but resist using more or you will have serious
problems getting the stringer even with the foam. Sandwich the stringer between the foam
blanks as in Figures 13&14.
After the epoxy hardens put the blank on the stands. It will be a great help if you can have
someone hold the blank steady. If not put some weight on it (wrapped in a towel). Take your
drill/disk sander with #50 disk and start very lightly removing foam. It will eat it up quickly
and may gouge a big hole in your blank. Start where the thickest areas of foam need to be
removed. Hopefully by the time you get close to the black lines you will get the hang of it. If
you you are confident you might try a #16 disk. If you keep gouging give it up and do it all
with the hand block plane, #16 block, and the surform. Once you get everything down to the
black lines do everything as previously mentioned for shaping Clark foam.
If you are committed to shaping more than one polystyrene blank you might consider making
a hot wire cutter to cut the excess foam down to the stringer lines. Also you could buy a
planner modified for foam (Hitachi from Clark foam). The hot wire method is initially more
error prone. I recommend using the method in the paragraph above for your first board. The
sites below will help you build a hot wire cutter cheaply. If you use a hot wire, please
practice on scrap pieces, please wear a respirator and, please set it up so power can be
disconnected
quickly.
http://davidwoodward.com/iceflyer/hotwire.htm
http://www.intlwaters.com/fvrcb/wirecutter.htm
http://www.canadianhovercraftfederation.org/FAQs/2foam_cutter.htm
When you finish take interior/exterior lightweight spackling and your 6" putty knife or
squeegee (cheap plastic works well) and spread it thinly over every inch of foam. Scrape off
the excess with your squeegee being careful not to scratch your blank. Sand it lightly with
approximately #120. Make sure it's completely sealed (not scratched through) or it will absorb
a lot of expensive epoxy and become very heavy! See EPOXY. Spackling seal isn't needed on
Clark foam or extruded polystyrene.
One more alternative is to use extruded polystyrene foam. This foam does not have the water
absorption problem that expanded polystyrene has. Extruded polystyrene is significantly
stronger (pound for pound) than polyurethane or expanded polystyrene so it is a good
candidate for a stringerless board. I have been told that this foam tends to delaminate easier
so it would be wise to leave the blank very rough for increased bonding (#16) . This foam is
available in sheets 8' x 4' x 3" and 4" thickness maximum so you may have to glue sheets
together ( it is possible to make two good boards out of one 8' x 4' x 4" sheet). You can
increase the rocker on a stringerless blank by moving the racks toward the center before you
laminate with cloth (it will bend approx. 1/2" - 1 1/2"). If you glue sheets together try to
figure out where the glue joint crosses the outline and rocker of your board and avoid putting
glue there (otherwise it will be very hard to shape at the glue joint). www.pointblanks.com is
making strong surfboards using extruded polystyrene exclusively. They do not sell foam. I
recommend extruded polystyrene over expanded polystyrene but, it may not be worth the
extra effort. This excellent foam commonly comes in baby blue and is called "dow blue
board". It is used in building wall insulation. You can cover any uneven spots with color
matched latex paint mixed with spackling (have Lowe's etc. match the latex paint and
spackling together). This is my favorite foam but it is a lot of trouble. Houston Foam Plastics
at 713-224-3484 sells it for about $41. for a 4'x8'x3" sheet.
If this chapter is confusing just get a Clark foam blank, it is much easier to shape although
generally slightly heavier and, it is what I recommend for your first board.
EPOXY
If you want a durable and/or light board, try epoxy and "S" cloth or epoxy and carbon fiber.
Epoxy as a finished product is simply better than polyester. I feel epoxy and "S" cloth or
epoxy and carbon fiber are worth the extra cost. Together they will increase the cost of your
materials approximately 20%-30%.
I had two palm sized disks. One was epoxy and one was polyester. I dropped the two disks
from chest height flat onto concrete. The polyester shattered into many pieces. The epoxy
showed no damage. My sons' polyester "E" cloth board and my epoxy "S" cloth board ran into
each other head on. The polyester "E" cloth board had a 2" hole. The epoxy "S" cloth board
had no damage.
You could save around 2 lb. by using epoxy and "S" cloth. It is more damage resistant than
polyester and 'E' cloth so you could use lighter cloth, maybe one 6oz. or 4oz. layer of "S"
cloth in place of each of the two 4oz. layers of "E" cloth recommended in GLASSING or a
lighter blank (such as Clark superlight, Clark ultralight, polystyrene foam, and/or a
stringerless blank ).
For the ultimate in lightness and strength try epoxy on carbon fiber. My present board is
4.8oz.carbon ( www.fiberglasssupply.com ) on the top and bottom with a 4.8oz.carbon fiber
deck patch over stringerless extruded polystyrene foam. It is pigmented white to keep down
the heat (carbon fiber is black) The gloss coat takes a lot of extra work with carbon and adds
weight. (See GLOSS COAT). If you want a pretty, clear board use the "S" or "E" cloth.
After trying over ten different epoxies I recommend the ss2000 at www.surfsource.net It is
very clear and has unusually good u.v. protection. The basic no blush at
www.epoxyproducts.com is also very good. If you want a finish that stays clear (epoxy
discolors slightly over years of sun exposure) it would be safer to coat the epoxy with a u.v.
blocker such as dolphin skin or, acrylic clear coat etc. I do not bother.
Showroom boards that say epoxy on them are actually only epoxy in the laminate (cloth).
The hot coat and gloss coat is polyester. This probably will not save any money for one board
due to the high cost of small units of resin. I recommend the first time board builder use all
polyester or all epoxy. I feel learning both systems only adds to the chance of errors and
frustrations.
Pay close attention to the epoxy mixing percentages. If you miss the percentage by more than
5% it won't harden reliably and will be weak. Mix it slowly (reduces bubbles) for about 3
minutes. Thorough mixing is critical to good strength and hardening.
Pay even closer attention to the temperature. If the specifications say that the epoxy will set
up in 30 minutes (pot life), that usually means at 78 degrees. With every 10 degrees of
temperature change the pot life will be doubled or halved respectively. If it's very hot, put it in
the refrigerator before using. At 100 degrees it can catch fire (it happened to me)!
Remember to sand in between coats and wipe with alcohol for good bond when putting
polyester over epoxy (which I do not recommend on your first board). If you are re-coating
epoxy with more epoxy you don't have to sand between coats if it is applied within twenty
four hours. If you notice "fish eyes" (a common bubble-like imperfection) in an epoxy hot
coat then consider thinning the gloss coat about 10% with xylene. For the epoxy gloss coat,
I simply leave it alone after it dries (on the bottom). I usually #16 sand the top or apply EVA.
Note that epoxy has the desirable characteristic of going from slightly gelled to hard at a more
gradual rate than polyester. This makes it less likely the builder will be caught in the middle
of a procedure with resin hardening so fast he can not finsih.
GLASSING
If there is a surfboard- making company nearby you may be able to save some shipping when
buying resin and cloth etc. Please be aware that if you try to build a surfboard using the
abbreviated advise of a local surf shop you are courting disaster. Wherever you buy please
look at the HELPFUL LINKS. I have had good experiences with all the companies referred
to in this booklet. www.fiberglasssupply.com has virtually everything needed to do an entire
board, in many combinations. This website also has a lot of information about the products
which will help you decide which one to use. Note: I do not receive any compensation for
recommending anything in this guide.
Most surfboards have three resin layers covering the foam core; first the laminate coat (cloth
saturating layer), second the hot coat, and third the gloss coat. Most surfboards are built with
a clear polyester resin and fiberglass cloth (Simlar 249 resin and "E" cloth). This combination
can produce a good, economical, time proven board. Most short boards are made with four
ounce "E" cloth - one layer on the bottom and two on the top. Most longboards are made the
same way with six ounce cloth. I believe this is a marginal amount of cloth. I have heard
many professional board builders complain about the "disposable board" attitude which is
now so accepted. I realize however, that most surfers are fixated on weight. For a stronger
and/or lighter board consider the alternatives below. Some first time builders shy away from
these alternatives believing them hard to use. To the contrary, first time builders seem to have
no extra trouble learning to use alternative methods.
Consider using epoxy and "S" (high strength) cloth or epoxy and carbon fiber cloth. Epoxy
is about twice as fracture resistant as polyester, and a little more than twice as expensive (see
EPOXY).
www.surfsource.com (ss2000) and www.epoxyproducts.com (basic no
blush) have good, clear, inexpensive epoxies. Remember that the vast majority of a
surfboards' strength is in the cloth. In equal amounts, "S" cloth and epoxy resin will make a
board that is about 50% stronger than a polyester resin "E" cloth board. Carbon fiber and
epoxy (this is what I now use) will make a board that is easily 100% stronger than equal
amounts of polyester resin and "E" cloth. These products may not be worth their cost to
you. "S" cloth is about twice as expensive as "E" cloth, and carbon fiber cloth is about twice
as expensive as "S" cloth (note that even with a deck patch you will only need half as much
carbon fiber as "S" so the cost per board is almost equal) These alternative products are the
way to go if you want a board that is very light and/or very durable. If lightness and/or
durability are worth an extra 20 - 30% increase in material cost then I encourage you to try
these alternatives.
Some people like polyester resin with ultra violet (u.v.) curing catalyst. This new type of
powdered catalyst makes polyester resin set up rapidly when exposed to sunlight or u.v.
tanning lights. This good product potentially gives the user better control over hardening
time. After using them both I recommend using regular mekp liquid catalyst for your first
board. This is because you will have to learn how to use liquid catalyst on the fin(s) and, any
night or low light glassing anyway so, why burden yourself with more problems. If you
insist on trying u.v. catalyst, it is advisable to put mekp catalyst in the resin also (about .5%),
otherwise you will likely have sticky resin all over your garage floor etc. for days. Don't buy
your resin or cloth from Lowe's etc. (low quality). (See LINKS).
Two other products you might be tempted to try are vinyl ester resin and isophthalic resin.
Vinyl ester resin is gaining popularity in the boat and sailboard building industries. If you
must try it be forewarned that the catalyst percentage needs to be very close to1.5%. If you
vary by .25% or so you will either wonder why it is so brittle or why it is taking forever to
dry. Vinyl ester resin at room temperature will take months to achieve a full cure. Boat
builders use heated drying rooms. Also, vinyl ester is not water clear (looks like tea). It will
need to be pigmented. I made a board with it and I do not recommend it. Isophthalic resin is
about 10% stronger than simlar249 (common surfboard resin) and is just slightly more
expensive and, not as clear. It will probably be necessary to pigment it Otherwise it is like
simlar249. It works well. www.lbifiberglass.com has an economically priced isophthalic
laminating resin.
See MATERIAL LISTS for amounts. You'll have to adjust the amounts for your specific
board. These amounts are barely enough for a wide 8' board. For a 9' board add at least 10%
more of everything. For a 7' board subtract 10%. This section assumes you are using
polyester resin and regular mekp catalyst.
You definitely do not want a big screw-up at this stage so please heed the following. Please
make sure you have a little more of everything than you think you need (esp. resin). Please
make double sure you mix a number of small but proportional test batches of catalyzed resin.
Try to make the resin gel in about 30 minutes on your first laminate (cloth saturation). Please
refer to the RESIN AMOUNTS section (this should help you with the catalyst mixtures).
Consider mixing your first test batch with half the catalyst listed in RESIN AMOUNTS.
These amounts are for a relatively fast hardening time. If it's hotter than 70 degrees you will
need less catalyst. Colder you might use more and you might need a heater. If the
resin/catalyst sits around for months before using (especially in very hot or cold temps) it may
not be reliable. Before you mix in the catalyst stop and think, what have I forgotten? What
might I need in a hurry if it sets up faster than I want? Try to have a helper standing by
possibly holding scissors to cut the threads of cloth that will hang down. Do the glassing in a
garage/shed etc. if possible. If done outside try to stay out of direct sunlight (unless it is cool).
If you insist on a very light, durable board consider some combination of the following: super
blue Clark foam with epoxy resin and "S" cloth or carbon fiber cloth (possibly one layer of
6oz. or 4 oz. "S" in place of each of the two layers or 4oz. "E" suggested below), or one layer
of 4.8oz. carbon fiber total. (See www.fiberglasssupply.com ). Note: due to the black color
of carbon fiber it would probably be wise to pigment the gloss coat a lighter color (reduces
heat). Some experts claim carbon fiber can not be effectively applied without a vacuum bag.
It can. For an extremely light board consider 2 lb./cu.ft. polystyrene foam (extruded or
expanded), Clark superlight foam, or Clark ultra light foam, all possibly without stringers.
Consider covering these foams with epoxy resin and "S" cloth with the amounts suggested
below, or single 4.8oz carbon fiber cloth with a single deck patch. (See POLYSTYRENE).
The following instructions will assume you're using a Clark super blue foam blank with 2
layers of 4oz. "E" cloth on the bottom, and 2 layers of 4oz. "E" cloth on top with 2 layers of
4oz "E" cloth deck patches. Even with "E" cloth, polyester resin, and a Clark Foam super blue
blank this will make a strong, inexpensive board. This layering method will produce a board
which is more resistant to damage in the areas they are most likely to occur. If this layering
and cutting is too complicated simply use 1-6oz. bottom and 2- 6 oz. top, cutting all the cloth
with a 1" overhang. The overall weight will be almost exactly the same.
Put on some clothes you don't care about. Keep using these same clothes. Long sleeves help.
Put the blank on the racks/stands bottom up. Blow or brush off any dust. If your cloth is on a
roll (which is good) put a broom handle etc. through it and get a helper to hold it or hang it
from the rafters. Pull 1 layer of 4oz cloth over the entire surface of the blank overhanging the
ends and sides by at least an inch. With scissors trim it at mid rail all around the blank.
Consider putting some kind of weights (3) on the cloth as you cut it to keep it from shifting.
Pull another layer of 4oz as you did the first but cut this layer very straight so it will overhang
the center or shadow of the rail by about 1" all around. This is called free lapping. (Figure 16).
When free lapping it helps greatly to have a light shining from underneath the board towards
the area you are cutting. Cut a "V" notch in the cloth hanging at the nose tip and tail corners.
Most shops use a different lapping method called cut lapping. It is more prone to devastating
errors for first time builders so I will not go into it. It is necessary only if you insist on
different colors on the top and bottom, which I also do not recommend.
Please read the warning label on the resin container and put on a respirator with vapor
cartridge, and gloves. If you refuse to use a respirator please at least turn on a fan or get in the
wind. Mix your resin and catalyst (see materials list-resin amts). Use a 10cc syringe to
measure your catalyst. I repeat, make sure you test it first. Try to give yourself at least 30 min.
until it starts to gel in the container.
Mix it for about a minute. Wax isn't needed. Pour the resin as in Figure 15.
Pour about 3/4 of the total mixed resin. Save the rest for dry spots. Working quickly now hold
your squeegee at about a 45 degree angle. Run it lightly longwise forcing the pooled resin out
towards the rails as shown in Figure 15. Try to keep the resin from running off until you get
the bottom evenly saturated. Pour most of the 1/4 resin left on any dryer spots. Start dragging
the excess so that it will run down the overhang. In places you will have to put your hand
under the overhanging cloth and daub the resin onto it with the squeegee to get it even.
Long threads will probably be hanging down in a few places at this stage. Have your helper
(if possible) cut them. Have your helper monitor the resin by telling you if it thickens (The
resin on the board will gel a few minutes after the resin in the container).
Quickly, and still using very firm pressure (you almost can't do this too hard now, just don't
make the cloth shift) drag any excess resin out of the cloth. Do this by dragging the squeegee
crosswise from the stringer to the rail all around the board leaving the cloth hanging. Any
pooled resin will make a floating weak bond. Resin will be dripping everywhere. Make sure
there are no dry spots. Quickly still using very firm pressure starting mid rail lap the cloth
underneath working towards the nose then the tail on both sides. Do this by taking your
squeegee where you left the overhang and firmly force the wet cloth to adhere to the
underside curve of the rails (see Figure 16).
Cut anything hanging down and check for bubbles. Drip a little resin in the bubbles and work
them out with the squeegee. If this doesn't work cut a small slit with a razor blade and drip a
little resin and mash down. If there is a little cloth sticking up at the tail corners and nose tip
drip some resin, mash, and stop. You will never get these areas perfect now. You can fix them
on the hot and gloss coats.
Put the squeegee and scissors etc. in acetone (gal. can 1/2 full). Clean out the resin in the
container with a paper towel etc. or pry it out when it gets semi-hard (do this every mix).
Consider using cheap scissors and plastic squeegees which can be thrown away. It costs
almost as much to clean them as it does to use a new one each time.
Turn board top up (please make sure you have wrapped the pipe foam on the racks with
masking tape) Plane any lumpy places on top where the cloth meets the foam etc. using a
surform pocket plane and razor blade. This is easier if done before the resin is completely
hard (rubbery). If you clog the surform let it soak in acetone then wire brush etc the clog.
From here on you can keep working almost continuously (if you are using polyester resin).
15 minutes after one coat gels you can often start preparing the next coat. When you tap it
with your fingernail and it clicks it is ready. Pull 2-4oz. "deck patch" layers from the tail to 1'
beyond the board center point and cut at an angle to the stringer (if cut straight it will tend to
break on the line). Cut this overhang at mid rail (See Figure 17).
Pull 1 layer of 4oz cloth across the top covering the entire top. Cut this like you did the
bottom (at the rail mid line). Pull 1 more layer of 4 oz and cut this like you did the bottom
(overhanging the rail mid line shadow by 1"). Saturate the top like you did the bottom adding
about 10% more resin. When the top has gelled plane off any drips and uneven spots (esp.
nose tip and tail corners).
HOT COAT
Turn the board bottom up. Wrap 1" masking tape around the entire circumference of the board
at mid rail. (Figure 18).
Press the top edge of the tape down firmly and let the bottom edge hang free (lets resin drip
off). I like to pull the tape up every foot or so and put a slight crease in the middle of the tape
to make sure it does not flatten out on the board. Mix resin as before but use about 1/2 as
much as when laminating. Add styrene wax surface agent (wax)(see MATERIAL LIST).
Remember your measuring syringes. The wax makes the resin set up non tacky so it can be
sanded. Wax should be added to polyester resin at a ratio of 10cc wax to one pint resin(2%).
See RESIN AMOUNTS for help figuring amounts. Mix this batch with a higher percentage of
catalyst. Run finger around top tape edge again. Pour resin as before.
Use a cheap 4" natural bristle brush or foam brush. Foam brushes are cheaper but will distort
slightly with polyester resin. Foam brushes work o.k. with polyester and great with epoxy.
Start spreading the resin with the brush as you did with the squeegee on the laminate coat
(holding the brush at a 45 degree angle to the stringer). Get the resin roughly even over the
flat sections trying not to let it run off the rails. From now on stroke from tape edge to tape
edge (try to keep from smashing the free hanging tape edge into the board). Cover the entire
surface of the board with each set of strokes. First stroke longwise one entire surface, then
crosswise. Stroke 45 degrees one entire surface and then 45 degrees the opposite direction.
Stroke one entire surface crosswise and make two continuous circles brushing around the
tape line. Check with a moveable light all along the tape line for dry spots. Finally stroke the
entire surface longwise very lightly one time. Use this same method on each following coat.
Throw away the cheap brush (you'll spend more trying to clean it than it's worth and it won't
be right anyway). Pull the tape when the resin gels. When it hardens, flip it and repeat.
Note: You can put EVA foam traction surface on using the hotcoat as your glue. See GLOSS
COAT
FINS
Removable fin systems are probably the best choice. They allow you to change fins and fin
positions in relation to wave size and speed. This will drastically change the way a surfboard
maneuvers. Also fin removal makes for better travel. www.surfsource.net has inexpensive
molded fins and fin boxes. The 10.5" box gives you a lot of adjustment room. The molded
fins are about half the weight and less than half the cost of fiberglass fins and work great. It's
economically not worth making your own fins unless you want something really bizarre.
I'll assume you're going to install a fin box (see below for glass-on fins). I'll also assume you
have no router.
Mark out the fin box location using the measurements from your model board. Put a 3"
abrasive disk on the drill. Holding the drill sideways cut along the fin box outline with the
edge of the abrasive disk. Cut down to the depth of the box longwise and just barely cut
through the cloth crosswise. Pull off the fiberglass strip inside the cuts.
With a lone hacksaw blade cut through the stringer and foam at the ends down to the box
depth.
With a sharpened old screwdriver or chisel etc. cut out the stringer and foam inside the
outline. This will be messy. The bottom will be uneven. Note: A router makes this job a snap
but renting a router and buying the proper bit is prohibitively expensive for one board.
Mix a small amount of resin and catalyst (1oz.) Put foam dust in the mix until it is mostly
foam. Spread this mush on the bottom of the hole. Mash the box down in the hole to flatten
the mush. Try to get the box flush or barely sticking up. If you are using polystyrene foam
seal the box hole with interior/exterior lightweight spackling.
Rough the box with #50. Put the fin in the box and tape very carefully around the fin so resin
cannot get into the fin box (Figure 19).
Also tape around the hole. Cut 3-4oz. strips of cloth 14"x5". After mush has gelled, center the
dry strips over the hole and smash the box all the way down. Adjust as necessary for tight fit.
The box should be flush or barely sticking up.
Mix about 6oz resin with 2cc cat. and 4cc wax (measure with syringe). Put the strips on wax
paper and pour resin evenly on them. Center the wet cloth over the hole and push the box all
the way down. Pour resin mix around the edges until it runs out.
Make sure the board is level on the racks. Use the torpedo level (single fin only) or angle
finder or cut piece of cardboard to match fin lean angle (twin or tri fins). Note: If the board is
exactly centered below a light it will be much easier to see if the angles are accurate. If level
and centered it is possible to set the fins within 2 degrees of perfect by eye only.
When it gels pull the tape and cut the excess cloth with a razor blade. Take out the fin.
If the box is sticking up put 3 layers of duct tape around it and sand it with #50 disk till the
tape starts disintegrating. Stop. Remove the tape. This tape will keep you from sanding into
your cloth around the fin base. The disintegrated tape can be removed with acetone and a
razor blade. Note: If you leave the box sticking up very slightly it is much easier and safer.
If glassing-on (unremovable fins) it saves a step to do it before the hot coat. Mark the fin(s)
location according to model board. Hold them in place with 1" masking tape. Tape in a
triangle from the fin tip to the rail.
Make sure the board is level on the racks and light is centered overhead. Use a template (cut
a piece of cardboard to match the original fin angle) or angle finder if the fin lean angle is
needed. Mix some resin/catalyst and drip it around the fin(s) base (just to hold them in place).
Cut fiberglass rope about 1/2" longer than fin base (both sides). Cut 2 layers of 4oz. cloth to
fit about 3" up fin height and about 3" across the board for each side of each fin. Mix about
6oz. resin and 2cc catalyst per fin. Saturate the rope on wax paper (keep it straight). Lay the
rope at the fin base (one on each side). Saturate the cloth and put 2 layers on each side of the
fin. Smooth out the rope curve with your finger. Note: If you would prefer that the fin would
break off cleanly rather than possibly tearing a hole around the fin base. Do the following.
Reduce the amount of rope to about 1/4 the original amount or just replace it with 4 - 4 oz.
strips 1/2" - 1" wide on each side (narrower cloth to the center). Please realize that the fins
will break off easier this way but more cleanly. Cut excess when gelled. Remove tape.
Prepare to hot coat.
SANDING
Assuming that you don't have a power sander, put a 5" rubber backing pad and #50 sanding
disk on the drill. Put on your respirator with a dust cartridge. If you can't get a respirator at
least wear a dust mask and take everything outside in the wind or use a fan.
I highly recommend completely covering your body, including your head. If you won't do this
get some baby powder and work it in to all your exposed skin. If the sanding dust gets the
pores of your skin you will likely itch for days!
Go very slowly at first, constantly moving and barely touching the board surface. Keep the
sanding disk flat most of the time. In places where you can not keep it flat it is better to hand
sand. The relatively low speed of the drill should keep you from making any big mistakes.
Stay away from the rails for now. It is safer to hand sand the rails and any curved areas. I
have seen a number of people (including me) power sand all the way through to the foam on
the rails! As you get the feel for it try allowing the weight of the sander to bear down on the
surface, still constantly moving (you should not need to push down hard).
If you simply must try power sanding the rails please do this. Put a #150, #180 or, #220 disk
on the drill. Note: If you have trouble finding a certain # in a disk you can cut them from
sheet sand paper. Please do not power sand the rails with #50. Experiment with very light
pressure. Consider only power sanding drips and other areas of obvious excess resin build up
on the rails. Finish by hand with #50.
Keep blowing or brushing off the dust and looking closely at the glass. If you start seeing a
small checkerboard pattern, don't sand any deeper there (you're seeing the cloth-try not to
sand to the cloth). You will probably notice you have low spots that can not be sanded with
the drill sander without penetrating the cloth on nearby high spots. Lightly hand sand these
low spots using your finger tips if needed. Try to simply remove all the shine from the entire
surface. Just get the bottom smooth and completely sanded, then stop. It's better to sand too
little than too much. Just make sure you get all the shine off the surface.
Sand the top like the bottom. The top doesn't need to be as smooth as the bottom.
Take the board out in bright sunlight if possible and look for shiny spots on the top and
bottom. These shiny spots may have wax on the surface (polyester only). The gloss coat will
look wavy etc. if you leave them.
ART WORK
After you finish sanding the hot coat it is a relatively safe time to do art work. I feel it is better
because you can fix it if you screw-up. If you put your art work under or in the cloth you
won't be able to fix it. One of the main things that will make your first board look
unprofessional is sloppy art work. Please trust me, keep it simple.
Consider acrylic water based paint and pens (not Posca brand). Pigment ink pens
(waterproof) are good also. These are available at big chain stores like Hobby Lobby and
Michaels. Acrylic water based paints and pens clean up easily with water until dry and even
then can be easily sanded off. To make sure the ink is totally dry put ink on a test piece at the
same time the art on the board was inked. Test by rubbing or brushing repeatedly with
catalysed resin. Many paints will run when exposed to resins. Some inks lift (rise to the
surface of the resin as it sets).
Another way to do art work that is relatively trouble free is to print rice paper (
www.fiberglasssupply.com ) on a computer printer. This paper will become clear when
saturated with resin. Please make at least two copies and test one with your resin. Please do
not put it under the cloth. You may have to cut the paper to fit in your printer or go to
Kinko's etc. ( Kinko's have printers for oversize sheets). Also you may have to tape the rice
paper to another piece of regular paper to make it feed properly.
Consider having someone who will give you an honest opinion look at it before you gloss
over it. Don't be too proud to sand it off and start over or just leave it plain. Remember you
may sell it someday.
GLOSS COAT
With the board bottom up, tape around the rails as with the hot coat. Close the doors, and
windows. Mix and apply the gloss coats as you did the hot coats. Pull the tape when it gels.
Turn out the lights (keeps bugs off). Leave it until it's hard.
If you want a high gloss polyester finish on the bottom, hand sand with #400 wet sand paper
on a block. If it is slightly uneven you may need to sand it with #180 or #220 (disk on drill
etc) then follow with the #400. Then get a buffing pad for your drill and spread lines of
rubbing compound over approximately 2 sq. ft. areas. Buff till dry then blend into the next 2
sq. ft. area.
I feel people often over-do polyester finish work. It seems a waste of labor to sand and buff
the top and then smear wax all over it. You could just skip the finish work on the top and,
maybe the bottom. The board will actually look better later (when it gets scratched etc.) if it
does not have a glossy finish to start with. Also dried salt water leaves a dull film that will
make a board look unbuffed. Some people prefer to only lightly fine sand with #400 or
#180 etc. Some people just buff lightly. Below are many alternatives.
Epoxy has no wax (surface agent) to buff off. It dries glossy. I simply leave the bottom
epoxy gloss coat alone. On the top I either sand with #16 or apply EVA (see below). Be
aware that epoxy is not as u.v. resistant as simlar 249 polyester. It will tend to discolor over
the years. Epoxy experts recommend adding pigment (I like white) or some u.v. resistant
covering (dolphin skin or acrylic clear coat). If you see "fish eyes" (a common bubble like
imperfection) in an epoxy hot coat, consider thinning the epoxy gloss coat about 10% with
xylene. It helps. See EPOXY. Note: I recommend using either all polyester resin or all
epoxy resin. I feel it is too prone to errors and frustrations for the first time builder to learn
both systems.
If you are gloss coating carbon fiber it would be wise to use a light pigment such as white
(unless you live in a cool climate). It is black and gets hot fast. I recommend the following;
Use epoxy. Pigment with 10% epoxy pigment. Thin with 10% xylene. Use 1/2 to 2/3 the
normal amount of epoxy that is recommended for a gloss coat and brush on a very thin gloss
coat (maybe 10 oz.). After the top and bottom is dry, brush over the dark streaks (especially
the rails) with the same pigment and xylene mix as before (aprox. 5 oz.). Finally cover it all
with a final coat using the same !/2 to 2/3 mix. Another method that works is pigmenting
epoxy with 10% epoxy pigment. Brush on a full coat leaving about 10% in the cup. When
the epoxy starts to thicken brush on the extra 10% to the rails only. If you gloss it normally it
will be very streaky. Carbon fiber is black and hard to pigment. The extra epoxy needed to
get even coloring and to fill the wider carbon cloth weave will make the board weight very
close to a board made with twice as much "S" cloth and a normal gloss coat. If you want a
pretty board use "S" or "E" cloth.
For an alternative traction surface try this instead of using wax etc. Put a new #16 disk on the
drill. Use slow drill speed, quick lateral motion, and heavy pressure to rough up the top.
Keep it moving quickly side to side or you will sand into the cloth. Try to scratch it deeply
without going into the cloth. Just rough it up (shiny spots are o.k.). Hand sand the rails #50.
You can try #16 on the rails also but it may irritate the inside of your legs. End with heavily
hand sanded crosswise strokes (better traction). If you slip try to scratch it deeper with the
#16 (the few people who slip are usually wearing a new rash guard, a new wet suit or, oily
sun block). If it is too rough try sanding with a finer grit in certain areas. This #16 surface
will last about 50 hours of surfing before the abrasiveness fades. Just rough it up by hand
sanding with mostly crosswise strokes. If you do not like it, at least it will make anything
that goes over it stick better.
Here is another alternative to wax. EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) foam sheets. This is the
same material that traction pads (commonly seen on the rear of short boards) and, the top of
Soft Top surfboards are made of. You can buy 6' x 3' x 1/16" sheets at
www.canalrubber.com The sheets come in 10 different colors and cost only $10.15 each.
These waterproof sheets can be applied using the hot coat or gloss coat as the glue. This will
save weight, labor and, money. Simply cut the sheets with scissors to cover the desired area.
It can even be stretched over the rails. Please test it first. I recommend stretching the sheets
as you glue and hold the tension with masking tape until the glue sets. If you have air bubbles
underneath the EVA pull the bubbles to the edge with a squeegee. This surface is light,
tough, attractive, soft and, will last the life of your board. If you are doubtful simply duct tape
a piece to your board. This unique product actually gets less slippery when wet. If you need
more traction sand it to your desired grip. Consider breaking the wax habit!
LEASH PLUG
Here's a way to get around buying a leash plug and the tools to install it. This will also make
your board lockable. Get a long shackle lock (Figure 20 ).
Open the lock and mark the furthest point the shackle will touch and still allow the lock to
close. Mark it next to the stringer. Drill a 1/2" hole straight down through the board. Put tape
across the bottom of the hole. With your scissors cut approximately one square inch of
fiberglass cloth into tiny shreds. Mix approximately 1oz. resin/catalyst and add the shreds
(use epoxy if you have a polystyrene blank). Cram the goo in the hole. Let it set hard then
drill a 3/16" or 1/4" (depending on your shackle diameter) hole down the middle of the 1/2"
hole. This will be easier if you start with a very small drill bit. If you miss the center of the
hole force the small bit towards the center and follow with the larger bit. Plane it down flush.
You can use a chain or bicycle cable to loop around trees, car handles etc.
To use as a leash buy 1/8" (3.2mm) or 3/16" (4.8mm) nylon rope at Lowe's etc. Cut a few
pieces about 8" long and burn the ends slightly. Stick the rope in the hole, tie it in a double
knot and connect your leash to it.
To install a conventional leash plug do the following. Take the leash plug to Lowe's etc. and
buy an inexpensive paddle type drill bit to match the plug diameter ( 1" is common). Drill the
leash plug hole as far back on the top tail as possible (make sure the tail area is thicker than
the plug). Adjust the depth of the plug so that the top is is flush or slightly sticking up. Sand
the plug. Cut and mix cloth and resin as above. Put a small amount of goo all around the
plug hole and insert the plug. Sand using the same method as in FINS.
BOOKS
Essential Surfing by George Orbellian
The complete Surfing Guide for Coaches by Bruce Gabriel (for free online)
http://www.blackmagic.com/ses/book/toc.html
MATERIAL LIST (SHAPING)
1-foam blank
1-2"x4"x8' wood stud (maybe 2 or3)
1-Sheet #16 grit floor sanding paper (from floor sanding machine rental company, #12 or #20
ok) or 1- 9" #16 sanding disk from www.fiberglasssupply.com could be used with an 8" block
in place of the 10" below (better than #12 or #20)
2-#16 Aluminum Oxide etc sanding disks-5" (from www.fiberglasssupply.com )
2- #50 Aluminum Oxide etc. sanding disks-5"
1-foam pipe insulation
1-10"x4.5"x1" wood block with #16 sand paper
1-10"x3.5"x1" wood block with #50 sand paper
1-26"x3.5"x1" wood block with #50 sand paper (make sure it's not warped)
1- 12"x2"x1" wood etc. 1-6"x2"x3/8" wood etc.
1-small interior/exterior lightweight spackling (if using polystyrene blank get large)
1
- 10' Electrical Metalic Tubing
MATERIAL LIST (GLASSING)
Based on 8' board with Clark blank and 2-4oz-bottom., 2-4oz-top with 2-4oz deck patch
Laminating resin (polyester or epoxy)-1.5 gal. minimum
Catalyst-3oz min. (if using polyester)
Wax-2oz min. (if using polyester)
Cloth-4oz."E" or "S" glass 30" wide etc .x 17 yds. long minimum or 4.8 oz. carbon fiber 30"
wide etc. x 7 - 9 yds. long minimum (use 9 yds. carbon total for a board with a deck patch) or
6oz. "S" cloth 30" wide etc. x 9 yds. long minimum
Disposable latex gloves
2-10cc syringe (one for cat., one for wax)
2-Qt. mixing container with cc graduations.
1-2.5 qt mix. cont. w/cc's
Fin box(s) & Fin(s) Rubber squeegee (aprox. 5" plastic good.)
1" masking tape (chemical resistant type)
2" masking tape (cheap stuff o.k.)
Wax paper
Towels or rags
Cheap scissors
Razor blades
Mixing stick(s)
Acetone-1 gal.
1 gal. empty, clean paint can with lid (for acetone)
4-cheap 4" natural bristle brushes or foam brushes
Optional-fiberglass rope (for glass on fins only) amt.varies
Optional-pigment for epoxy etc.
Optional-1/8" - 3/16" nylon leash rope (can buy 50' for the price of one piece at surf shop)
Optional 1" Leash Plug/cup
Optional-6'x3'x1/16" EVA traction sheet
POLYESTER, OR EPOXY RESIN AMOUNTS-(8' BOARD) PLUS CATALYST RATIOS
Laminating (use approximately half the catalyst amounts given if this is your first lamination
and please do a test batch first)
Bot.- 44oz=16cc cat
Top- 50oz=19cc cat
Hot coat
Bot.- 20oz=10cc cat & 12cc wax
Top- 24oz=12cc cat &14cc wax
Gloss coat
Bot.- 20oz = 7cc cat. & 12cc wax
Top- 24oz = 9cc cat. & 14cc wax
Fin box
6oz = 2cc cat. & 4cc wax
Catalyst percentages .5% .75% 1% 1.5% 2%
Pint=16oz resin add 3cc 4cc 5cc 7cc 9cc catalyst
Quart=32oz resin add 5cc 7cc 9cc 14cc 18cc catalyst
Helpful Equivalents
1cc=15drops
1oz=30cc
1cup=8oz
1pint=16oz
1quart=32oz
1gallon=128oz
Helpful Notes
10cc styrene wax (about 2%) for each pint of laminating resin (to make it dry non-tacky-hot
coat and gloss coat only). Maximum 1oz polyester type pigment/1quart resin (will inhibit
hardening of polyester resin at 1oz/1pint). Note: Some epoxy pigments will work in epoxy at
a !0% ratio.
How To Figure Catalyst Amounts When You Have An Odd Resin Amount. 1. Choose the %
of catalyst. Note: 1% is a good starting place. 2. Convert the resin amount from oz. to cc.
by multiplying oz. times 30. Example: 20oz. x 30 = 600cc. 3. Multiply the resin amount in
cc's times 1% . Example: 600cc x 1% (.01) = 6cc catalyst.
Knee and Foot Contact Spots When Knee Paddling (5'11" person)
Knee 2.5" forward (towards nose) of board center and 4.5" out from stringer
Foot 16" backward (towards tail) of board center and 4" out from stringer
(These spots will allow you to put extra cloth only where needed to prevent knee paddling
dents-approximately 6"x6" patches)
EQUIPMENT LIST
Respirator with dust and vapor cartridges
Tape measure
Magnetic torpedo level
Drill (higher speed better)
1/2" drill bit or 1/2" paddle type drill bit and 3/16" drill bit (for lockable leash plug)
paddle bit (for conventional leash plug/cup)
Hand saw (wood)
Sharpie fine marker pen
Block plane (smallest)
Surform pocket plane
5" rubber back-up pad with 1/4" shank (for sanding disks on drill)
3" Abrasive disk and shank (for drill) (not needed for glass on fins)
Hacksaw blade (coarse)
1"
LINKS
www.fiberglasssupply.com
www.fibreglast.com
www.lbifiberglass.com
www.foamez.com
www.surfsource.net
www.epoxyproducts.com
Please feel free to e-mail Stephen Pirsch at: [email protected] This booklet
changes often due to your interesting comments and questions.
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