Boston Natural Areas Network 2008 HANDBOOK for STUDENTS LEARNING through URBAN GARDENING (SLUG) A Vegetable Gardening How-To Guide For Teachers and Students This manual property of ______________________________________________ 1 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS Boston Natural Areas Network (BNAN) Mission Statement Thank you to SLUG funders Students Learning through Urban Gardening (SLUG) program goals BNAN contact information 7 7 8 8 Let’s Garden! A vegetable garden is full of life A vegetable garden enhances education A vegetable garden develops stewardship A vegetable garden grows healthy communities A vegetable garden grows indoors or outdoors 9 9 10 10 11 12 SLUG Application 13 SLUG Site Agreement 17 SLUG Training & Support Training & PDPs Support Support – online SLUG page 19 19 19 19 Getting Started Get permission and support Gather ideas Create a garden journal (student notebook) Plan on paper Choose the kind of garden you want 21 21 21 21 22 22 Guidelines for Indoors and Outdoors Vegetable Gardening Doing fun things & learning Engaging the students Setting up Planning ahead Preparing a space for starting seeds Planting seeds Maintaining proper moisture before sprouting Maintaining proper light before sprouting 23 23 23 24 24 25 26 27 27 3 Guidelines for Indoors and Outdoors Vegetable Gardening, con’t Checking regularly to confirm seed sprouting Thinning Preparing space to transplant seedlings Special plant care instructions Transplanting seedlings Maintaining proper moisture for seedlings and transplants Maintaining proper light Checking regularly to confirm plant growth and health Checking regularly to confirm temperature protection Harvesting Succession planting Use and care of garden equipment and tools 28 28 29 29 30 31 32 32 33 33 34 35 Recommendations for Growing Vegetables Indoors 36 Materials & supplies list for grow lights & container gardening Needed for grow lights Needed for container growing Also helpful Vegetables & container size needed Container size & amount of soil mix Soil mix recipes 37 37 37 37 38 39 40 Materials & supplies list for outdoors & container gardening Needed for outdoor growing Also helpful for outdoors growing Recommended vegetables for fall planting Good gardening practices When to plant – How to plant 41 41 41 42 43 45 Vermiculture (worm bin) Worm bin basics Setting up the worm bin Worm bedding Moisture Food Food scrap container Worm food rotation Harvest (two methods) Worm compost uses 47 47 47 47 47 48 48 49 49 49 4 Compost troubleshooting 50 Materials & supplies list for vermiculture 50 Outdoor: Compost Basics Composting benefits Setting up the bin Necessary ingredients Passive composting? Active composting Materials to put and not put into the bin It’s ready to use Ways to use compost 51 51 51 52 52 52 53 53 53 Composting at School Should we? Who will manage? Where…place? What type? Possible types for passive 55 55 55 55 56 56 Compost Myths and Facts Bins Bioactivators Yeast, elixirs and worms Fertilizer Lime Odor Rodents and pests Layers Fourteen-day compost Compost calculus 57 57 57 57 58 58 58 58 59 59 59 Compost troubleshooting 60 Materials & Supplies List for outdoor composting 61 Also useful for compost bin 61 5 SLUG Advisory Committee 63 Garden-Related Activities 65 Resources and References Books, documents, websites Some history of school gardens Boston-area schoolyard programs Research that supports gardening’s positive role 66 66 67 68 69 SLUG Vegetable Garden Glossary 73 SLUG Journal Prompts 81 Quick Reference Guide – Indoor 89 Planting Instructions, Suggested Activities, Journal Prompts Module 1 Module 2 91 91 101 Quick Reference Guide – Outdoor 107 Outdoor Germination Rates 108 Planting Instructions, Suggested Activities, Journal Prompts Module 1 Module 2 109 109 111 Key Steps for Sustained Success A vegetable garden requires active engagement Record every step Boston Public School calendar SLUG program calendar 115 115 115 116 118 6 BOSTON NATURAL AREAS NETWORK MISSION STATEMENT Boston Natural Areas Network (BNAN), organized in 1977, works to preserve, expand and improve urban open space through community organizing, acquisition, ownership, programming, development and management of special kinds of urban land - Urban Wilds, Greenways and Community Gardens. In all of its endeavors, BNAN is guided by local citizens advocating for their open spaces and assisting them to preserve and shape their communities. BNAN is the Boston affiliate of The Trustees of Reservations (TTOR). BNAN THANKS THE FOLLOWING FUNDERS FOR THEIR GENEROUS SUPPORT OF SLUG: Bay State Federal Savings Charitable Foundation Bernice B Godine Family Foundation Fieldstone Foundation Frances R. Dewing Foundation The Boston Foundation 7 STUDENTS LEARNING through URBAN GARDENING (SLUG) BNAN has developed an urban school-based vegetable gardening program. The model, called "Students Learning through Urban Gardening" (SLUG), will provide participants with training and support, a SLUG Handbook relating curriculum to BPS learning standards and frameworks, and garden materials and supplies. The model will lead teachers and students step by step through “start to finish – planting to harvesting” gardening and short-duration garden-related activities. The model will provide the know-how for indoor and outdoor vegetable gardening, indoor worm bin and outdoor composting. BNAN and partners of the program will provide teachers and students with training, on-site support and summer garden maintenance. The model, implemented beginning in the autumn of 2007, will provide support for existing outdoor vegetable garden sites during the summer, per arrangement with BNAN. BNAN contact information: Boston Natural Areas Network 62 Summer Street, Second Floor Boston, MA 02110-1008 Phone: 617-542-7696 Fax: 617-542-0383 Email: [email protected] 8 LET’S GARDEN! BNAN welcomes your participation in the SLUG program. Growing a vegetable garden can be an enriching experience for students and teachers alike. Congratulations on taking the first step toward cultivating this rich opportunity for you and your students! Children and youth in Boston deserve the chance to experience vegetable gardening. The problematic effects of the disconnect between the food found on the table and the sources of that food – the farm or garden – are well documented by nutritionists, food security organizations and experienced gardeners alike. A movement to reconnect people with their food sources through the creation of local food systems is growing. Connecting children and youth with the source of their food and helping them learn how to grow their own vegetables provides a valuable opportunity to enhance educational skills as well as nurture life-long self-reliance and nutrition skills, cultivate environmental stewardship and build community. The following materials in this Handbook are designed to assist students and teachers in getting started with a vegetable garden. BNAN expects and welcomes your questions and input throughout your participation in the SLUG program. To supplement the materials of this Handbook, BNAN/SLUG will offer training in growing and maintaining your vegetable garden and utilizing it as a learning laboratory, and SLUG staff will schedule periodic visits to your program at your convenience to provide the most effective support for you. SLUG will also provide support in addressing some of the challenges unique to gardening in Boston, i.e., growing vegetables in the cold climate that exists during much of the school year, identifying partners to maintain garden sites during the summer season, etc. A vegetable garden is full of life! Imagine the natural wonders that happen in a garden: Seeds sprout. Worms crawl. Roots grow. Beetles buzz. Sunlight shines. Compost decays. Soil nutrients cycle. Students learn! Gardening allows children to get in touch with nature and straight to the source of the healthiest foods: fruits and vegetables. In urban schools, where even when “outdoors” children are often surrounded by asphalt and blacktop, exposure to the learning opportunities that a garden provides is especially important. A vegetable garden is a living, dynamic learning environment that engages students’ curiosity and stimulates them to investigate its diversity. A vegetable garden provides a multi-sensory learning environment where students can see, smell, taste, touch and manipulate the educational tools they’re using. In a vegetable garden, hands-on multi-sensory learning enhances students’ education and motivates them to learn about nature and nutrition, as well as the traditional classroom subjects. 9 A vegetable garden enhances education! It’s not just wishful thinking! Research shows a direct correlation between gardening and an enhanced, successful educational experience.1 A vegetable garden broadens traditional learning and teaching opportunities for students and teachers. It provides students with a laboratory in which to apply lessons they learn in the classroom. The multi-sensory environment of the vegetable garden can engage students with diverse learning styles. The garden involves hands-on activities that encourage students to move, to observe and to work cooperatively to solve problems. A vegetable garden gives students an opportunity to integrate the lessons they learn in the classroom with the knowledge they gather from the garden. Successful school garden programs demonstrate that children can learn science, language arts, math, social studies, visual arts, nutrition, and social skills through the hands-on activities of a garden. Research has indicated that students’ performance across all disciplines increases with the successful implementation of school garden programming. In science, a vegetable garden can help to teach and reinforce a variety of skills, including observation, measurement, data collection, generating hypotheses, and comparing and contrasting. A vegetable garden can help teachers address specific topics in nutrition, classification, ecology, habitats, conservation, food chains, decomposition, plants, photosynthesis, insects, life cycles, weather, seasonal cycles and changes, geology, and chemistry. In mathematics, a vegetable garden can be used to develop and apply skills in number and operation, geometry, measurement, and collecting, organizing, and displaying data. In language arts, a vegetable garden can be used to reinforce various strategies used in reading comprehension, such as predicting, wondering/questioning, using schema, and making inferences. There is also much potential for literature connections in the garden. A garden also provides the subject matter for various forms of writing activities, including journals that chronicle plant growth, make predictions, or describe and respond to events in the garden, personal response compositions, observation essays, descriptive writing, and poetry. For classrooms with English Language Learners, the garden provides rich opportunity for oral language development, particularly through the use of Language Experience Approach activities. A vegetable garden develops stewardship! Growing a vegetable garden can encourage stewardship of the school community and natural environment through the students’ increased sense of pride, ownership and responsibility for their school, their education, and the natural world. 1 See: Page 93 in this Handbook for RESEARCH THAT SUPPORTS… 10 Caring for a vegetable garden encourages environmental stewardship. Growing organic food for local consumption is effective environmental stewardship, because locally grown organic food requires the use of less fossil fuel inputs for growing and shipping food. Locally grown organic food is healthier for people and the environment because it is grown without the use of harmful chemicals, such as pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Growing food organically in small-scale agriculture encourages the understanding and utilization of natural ecological processes. Organic practices build healthy soil, manage water wisely, and work with ecological processes rather than against them. Effective environmental stewardship relies on an informed, educated populace. The SLUG model will provide teachers, students, and support personnel with the opportunity to learn and work together in planning, growing, and maintaining a vegetable garden, both indoors and outdoors. In doing so, SLUG participants will become vital stewards of the urban natural environment. A vegetable garden grows healthy communities! School gardens can teach children, families, and communities how to grow vegetables together. Youth can learn the techniques of growing healthy food through cooperative activities that build community in the classroom. As Boston residents, there is also the especially ripe opportunity for children and families to apply their knowledge of these techniques in the many community gardens of Boston’s neighborhoods that serve as sites for families to garden together. In this way, the skills that children and youth learn in the schoolyard or classroom garden can be utilized to tap into the rich potential that exists for youth and their families to join others in their neighborhood who are growing their own fresh, healthy food in their communities. Also, engaging youth in learning how to grow their own vegetables is valuable preparation for life-long skills in growing and cooking nutritious food, participating in wholesome recreation, and learning effective community building skills. Further, teaching children and their families the valuable skills of self-reliant food systems increases community food security and empowers communities with a sense of ownership of and pride in their community. 11 A vegetable garden grows indoors or outdoors! The opportunities and challenges of implementing a school-based gardening program in Boston’s climate are unique. The SLUG model will aid teachers and students in learning gardening skills during the school season, and in dealing directly with seasonal cold weather issues. An important feature of vegetable gardening that the SLUG model places a strong emphasis on is that vegetable gardening is not to “plant a seed in a cup and watch it die,” nor is it to “plant in the spring and come back in the fall to see what’s happened.” Planting seeds in a container can be a worthwhile garden-related activity, provided that the sprouting plants can find a nurturing home or useful role. Spring planting and fall discovery could be useful for planned explorations, but counterproductive if the site merely exhibits unidentified weeds, dead vegetables, and other signs of abandonment, creating a neighborhood eyesore. To this end, the SLUG model aims to creatively address some of the challenges unique to gardening in Boston, such as the cold climate that exists during much of the school year, and the difficulties involved in maintaining garden sites when school is out, particularly in BPS schools where many students and staff do not reside in close proximity to their schools. The SLUG model will provide opportunity for teachers and students to experience gardening “from start to finish.” Vegetable gardening, when learned as a self-reliant lifelong skill, includes knowledge about soil preparation, seed and transplant planting, light requirements, mulching and water conservation, pest management, optimum harvesting time, composting, and more. The SLUG model includes techniques for indoor vegetable growing “start to finish” using indoor propagating shelves with lights, seed trays and containers. The SLUG model also includes techniques for outdoor vegetable growing “start to finish” using traditional planting beds augmented with cold frames and season extenders to grow out of doors through the cold weather. It also includes support and instructions for vermiculture (worm compost bins) and traditional outdoor composting. The SLUG model includes garden-related activities, rich in opportunity for science exploration as well as math and language arts skills enhancement. 12 SLUG APPLICATION: To apply for participation in the SLUG program, BNAN requires that the following information be submitted. Please return to SLUG Program, c/o Boston Natural Areas Network, 62 Summer Street, Second Floor, Boston, MA 02110-1008 OR fax to BNAN at (617) 542-0383 A: Survey of Interest School: _________________________________________________________ School Phone: ___________________________________________________ Street Address: __________________________________________________ Neighborhood: __________________ T Access: _______________________ Administrator Name: _______________________________________________ Administrator Signature of Support: ___________________________________ Administrator Email: _______________________________________________ SLUG Site Leader (SL) Name: ____________________________________________ SL School Year Phone: ________________ Summer Phone: __________________ SL School Year Email: _________________ Summer Email: ___________________ Best time of day and mode of contact: ______________________________________ *Please provide year-round contact information if possible. 1) Does your school currently implement vegetable gardening, or garden-related activities, to meet curriculum standards? If yes, please describe. If no, please describe your interest in using gardening to meet curriculum standards. ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ 2) Would you be available and willing to serve on an Advisory Committee (meeting one evening per month) to help oversee the development of the SLUG Pilot program? ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ 13 3) We will be offering trainings in the how-to’s of gardening and integrating garden activities into the BPS curriculum. Please indicate approximately how many teachers and staff from your school you anticipate would be interested in attending. BNAN will make every effort to work with the DOE to offer PDPs for these trainings. Please indicate if this will influence teacher interest. ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ B: Existing Indoor Conditions 4) Does your classroom or school currently have any indoor growing materials or equipment, such as a “GrowLab”? If no, please indicate how much indoor space can be dedicated to indoor growing equipment. One growing shelf has a footprint of approximately 24” x 36”. ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ 5) Does your classroom or school currently compost indoors using a vermiculture bin (worm bin)? If yes, please describe. ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ C: Existing Outdoor Conditions 6) Does your classroom or school have any outdoor vegetable gardening areas? a. If yes, please describe, and indicate who is currently utilizing the site. If no, is there a potential site for outdoor gardening? ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ b. If yes, indicate the number and size(s) of beds: ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ 14 7) Circle the type(s) of existing vegetable beds: raised bed, container, in soil/ground 8) Circle the type(s) of material existing vegetable bed(s) are constructed from: Non-treated lumber Treated lumber Recycled plastic Concrete Other (please describe) _______________________________________ 9) Location of existing or potential beds: ____________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 10) Proximity of / access to water spigot: ____________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 11) If known, soil condition (obtain sample for UMass soil lab test if not): ______________________________________________________________ 12) Beds’ (or potential sites’) relationship to sun, wind, structures, etc.: ______________________________________________________________ 13) Beds’ accessibility to diverse populations (note slope, steps, terrain): ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 14) Do you anticipate that your school will require assistance with summer maintenance of your outdoor garden site? If yes, please describe. If no, please describe how it will be maintained and who will maintain it. ___________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ F Yes 15) Is there an existing compost system? F No a. If yes, type of compost system: __________________________________ b. If no, describe potential (if any) for compost system: __________________________________________________________________ 15 Additional Notes: __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ Sketch of Site: *Please include garden site, water access, school building, other structures, and label cardinal directions. Thank you for your interest and for taking the time to complete this survey! Once we have received your survey we will contact you soon to further discuss your school’s involvement in the SLUG Pilot program. Questions? Contact SLUG at [email protected] or Jo Ann Whitehead at BNAN (617) 542-7696 extension 15, or email [email protected] 16 SLUG PARTICIPATION: To participate in the SLUG program, BNAN requires that the following Site Agreement be submitted: Site Agreement The following agreement outlines the roles and responsibilities of SLUG program participants. Each participating SLUG site should have an appointed site leader. The SLUG site leader is responsible for attending monthly SLUG advisory committee meetings (or sending a representative), communicating with the school garden team, reporting pertinent developments to other participating teachers, and periodically reporting SLUG program progress to BNAN staff. Teachers are expected to communicate with BNAN staff prior to any school vacations to coordinate plant maintenance. Teachers are encouraged to sign up volunteers (parents, school volunteers, etc.) for a SLUG training session where appropriate. Teachers may chose one or all program components (i.e. indoor gardening, outdoor gardening, vermiculture or outdoor composting). BNAN will provide SLUG sites with the materials necessary to start. BNAN will only provide the materials for the program components that the teacher intends to implement. BNAN will provide each participating school and/or teacher with the following supplies: Indoor • Grow light shelves • Self-watering planter • Seed-starting trays • Pots/plant containers • Potting soil • Seeds • Fertilizer • Watering Can • Gloves Outdoor • 4’ x 8’ raised bed (if not already existing) • Compost/soil • Seeds • Fertilizer • Season extender materials • Thermometer • Rain Gauge • Watering Can • 6 pr Gloves • 6 hand trowels • 6 hand cultivators Vermiculture • 1 vermiculture bin per classroom • Coir Blocks • Compost worms Compost Bin BNAN will provide vegetable gardening technical support to participating teachers through the following channels: • Four-session teacher training course (PDPs available), including connection to learning standards. • SLUG handbook with vegetable gardening and composting (including vermiculture) technical support. • Program implementation calendar to promote successful garden maintenance • BNAN staff and/or SLUG intern available for support through periodic site visits, phone or email consultation. • Web-based SLUG support network (a Wiki site or blog) to facilitate teacher communication. • Recruitment of SLUG volunteers and availability of SLUG intern to assist with garden maintenance during school vacations and to provide additional technical consultation 17 The SLUG program is for teachers to effectively implement school vegetable gardens in Boston. BNAN will provide teachers with training, curricular activity resources, and technical vegetable gardening support. SLUG will not implement garden-based curricula in the classroom for teachers as in-service. SLUG will provide teachers with a program implementation calendar and prompt teachers to implement garden activities in accordance with the provided gardening calendar. Some curriculum and activity resources will be tailored to the different phases of the SLUG gardening calendar. The calendar is also useful for promoting appropriate garden maintenance and encouraging gardening success. If teachers foresee difficulty following this schedule, they should communicate with BNAN staff prior to program implementation to develop an alternative calendar. Teachers are encouraged to report any gardening problems to BNAN staff for assistance improving plant growth. Teachers will be asked to participate in a SLUG program evaluation (survey or interview) at the end of the school year. Please provide each SLUG participant teacher’s name and volunteer’s names and the best available contact method (year-round, if possible). Indicate which program components each teacher wants to participant in. Please copy form for additional participants if necessary. PLEASE TYPE OR PRINT. Site Name _________________________________ ______________________________ Site Leader Phone/Email (Indicate Best Method) ___________________________________________ ______________________________ Indoor Gardening yes / no Outdoor Gardening yes / no Vermiculture yes / no Additional Participating Teachers Compost Bin yes/no Phone/Email (Indicate Best Method) ___________________________________________ ______________________________ Indoor Gardening yes / no Outdoor Gardening yes / no Vermiculture yes / no Compost Bin yes/no ___________________________________________ ______________________________ Indoor Gardening yes / no Outdoor Gardening yes / no Vermiculture yes / no Compost Bin yes/no ___________________________________________ ______________________________ Indoor Gardening yes / no Outdoor Gardening yes / no Vermiculture yes / no Site Volunteers (If available) Compost Bin yes/no Phone/Email (Best Method) ______________________________________________ ________________________ ______________________________________________ ________________________ Completed Site Agreements should be returned to: [email protected] Boston Natural Areas Network 62 Summer St., 2nd Floor Boston, MA 02110 18 SLUG training & support: BNAN will provide teachers with training, curricular activity resources, and technical vegetable gardening support. SLUG will not implement garden-based curricula in the classroom for teachers as in-service. SLUG will provide teachers with a program implementation calendar and prompt teachers to implement garden activities in accordance with the provided gardening calendar. Some curriculum and activity resources will be tailored to the different phases of the SLUG gardening calendar. The calendar is also useful for promoting appropriate garden maintenance and encouraging gardening success. If teachers foresee difficulty following this schedule, they should communicate with BNAN staff prior to program implementation to develop an alternative calendar. Teachers are encouraged to report any gardening problems to BNAN staff for assistance improving plant growth. Teachers will be asked to participate in a SLUG program evaluation (survey or interview) at the end of the school year. Training & PDPs Training sessions will be conducted for teachers, volunteer partners, and BNAN support staff. The sessions will give hands-on experience in setting up an indoor and outdoor vegetable garden, how to protect and nurture the vegetable garden through the cold season, and how to use the vegetable garden to meet teaching standards. It will also cover techniques for vermiculture (indoor worm bin) and outdoor composting. BNAN will provide PDPs to teachers. Support Teachers will be expected to take the lead in teaching vegetable gardening. BNAN cannot provide in-service for the vegetable garden program and activities. BNAN and volunteer partners will provide support by providing materials and supplies in a timely fashion, helping with indoor and outdoor set up, providing on-site summer maintenance (if confirmed with BNAN before end of school year), Support – online SLUG page BNAN/SLUG has created an online SLUG page where teachers and students can post questions, pictures, stories and more. To access the site, go to: http://bnan.wikispaces.com/ 19 20 GETTING STARTED Get permission and support: Get official permission and support from your school’s administration, teacher colleagues, and custodial staff. Let them know what your plans are and the set up your vegetable garden will need for indoors and/or for outdoors. 9 Work with teachers to find out who is interested in participating in a vegetable garden program. 9 Work with BNAN support staff and volunteer partners. 9 Find and utilize volunteers, such as a parent, Master Urban Gardener (MUG), community gardener, or others. Gather ideas: Visit other vegetable gardening programs at schools, urban agriculture sites, or community gardens. 9 Make note of the indoor garden set up and/or the outdoor garden layout. Note their location in relationship to light source, water source, tools, and storage areas. 9 Note if they compost indoors and/or outdoors. Create a garden journal: Get a large binder with paper and pockets. The Garden Journal will provide useful information for your future gardens and for future SLUG participants. Use the garden journal to: 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 Record your plans Jot down ideas Keep resource materials Record all dates and activities Keep receipts of expenses Show copies of photos of students’ activities Keep copies of Thank You letters you and your students send to donors, volunteers, guest speakers, host site visits, etc. 9 Other pertinent information, such as questions and information for BNAN staff, partners, and volunteers. 21 Plan on paper: Begin your garden plans, indoors or outdoors: 9 Start small: Plan only what you and your students can easily maintain, as the garden can always be expanded in the future. 9 Sketch the basic layout of the garden space, including size of space, student and teacher access (space to walk, stand), water source, tool and supply storage. 9 List the tasks necessary to set up for an indoor garden or to construct an outdoor garden. 9 Use the calendar provided in the back of this handbook to note important dates, such as germination and transplanting. This will make it easier to plan future activities. Choose the kind of garden you want: Start small. Choose what you do in the space you have and that you can maintain with the time and resources you have. 9 9 9 9 Indoor – Grow lights and/or Container garden Indoor – Vermiculture (worm bin) Outdoor – Traditional planting bed Outdoor – Compost 22 VEGETABLE GARDENING “START TO FINISIH” Guidelines for Indoors and Outdoors Doing fun things and learning: Let your imagination soar! Vegetable gardening can enhance your classroom lessons! Vegetable gardening can do more than teach about plants!! Here are just a few ideas: a. Science – A few seeds and plants can be selected for science experiments, i.e., testing germination rates, analyzing stem anatomy, examining leaf types, and more. Vegetable garden plants can be used for studying plant parts and growth, life cycles, nutrition, food groups, biological diversity, food web, soil composition, composting, weather, insects, and more. b. Math – A few seeds and plants can be selected for math exercises, i.e., measuring rate of seedling growth, recording the size or weight of the harvest. Vegetable plants can be used for measuring, calculating, budgeting, planning ahead, prioritizing, and more. c. Language Arts – A vegetable garden can inspire journal entries, poetry, and stories about “their garden”. Students can compare “their garden” with poems or stories about gardens found in literature. d. Art – A vegetable garden provides a place and inspiration for sketching and painting plants, insects, fruits, vegetables, birds, and more. Art skills can be used to draw or paint row markers for the garden, signs identifying the garden, and more. e. History & Cultures – Vegetable plants can teach history through their connection to countries of origin, the connection between food and cultures, Native American and early settler food production, vegetable crop folklore, and more. Learn where the vegetables you eat come from and what vegetable you can grow in Boston. Learn about the history of community gardening in Boston. Engaging the students: Discuss what kinds of vegetables can grow indoors. a. Select vegetables from the ones provided by SLUG or from the list provided. b. Prepare plant labels for each vegetable variety, one label per cell. c. Discuss how long it will take for the plants to grow to maturity. d. Discuss the kind of daily care the plants will need. e. If appropriate, have students help set up the grow lights. f. Decide on a garden theme, i.e., Three Sisters/Native American Garden; Salad Garden; Pizza Garden; Tops & Bottoms Garden; Nutrition Garden; Heirloom Seeds Garden. Or create a garden theme! g. Discuss how some of the plants will be grown to maturity (and eaten?!) and some will be used for discovery and exploration (and then composted!) h. Discuss appropriate container sizes and why (for example, the advisability of not transplanting root vegetables). 23 Setting up: Indoors Look over your available space, and place the grow lights where students can easily access it and where it will not often need to be moved for other educational activities or room cleaning. a. Connect your grow lights to the GFI unit and place near an electric outlet. b. Ensure all light bulbs and electric cords are in safe working order. Outdoors Walk around all of the school property. Look for an area that: a. Is safe and away from vehicle or pedestrian traffic. b. Is close to a water source. c. Is on level ground, has good drainage (or is a “box” or large container above soil or macadam), is not near soil treated with herbicides. d. Receives maximum light (10-12 hours per day, for winter growing). e. Is not excessively windy. f. Is easily accessible from the classroom. g. Is near storage space for tools, potting supplies, amendments (fertilizers, etc.) Planning ahead: Indoors a. Obtain seeds (be aware of the approximate number of seeds per packet, to ensure each student has opportunity to participate in the planting). b. Open seed packets carefully; a sneeze or laugh can send small seeds flying…! c. Start enough seeds to fill one grow light shelf. d. Make a plan for what to do with the seedlings! And you will want to start more seeds later (succession planting). e. Store seeds in a COOL, DARK, and DRY place. f. Mark important dates, such as planting, sprouting, and days to harvest on the calendar. 24 Planning ahead: Outdoors a. Soil test. Ask SLUG staff for a soil pamphlet and assistance collecting a test. Or contact: Soil Testing Lab, West Experiment Station, University of Massachusetts, Amherst, MA 01003-2082 For more information: b. c. d. e. f. g. phone: 413-545-2311 email: [email protected] web: www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest/ Obtain seeds (be aware of the approximate number of seeds per packet, to ensure each student has the opportunity to participate in the planting). Open seed packets carefully; a sneeze or laugh can send small seeds flying…! Start seeds directly into the garden soil. Make a plan for what to do with the seedlings! And you will want to start more seeds later (succession planting). Store seeds in a COOL, DARK, and DRY place. Mark important dates, such as planting, sprouting, and days to harvest on the calendar. Preparing a space for starting seeds: Indoors a. Pre-fill (recommended for young children) the cell-packs with potting soil. b. Prepare one label with the vegetable name and date for each cell-pack. Prepare one label with each student’s name for each cell-pack they help plant. Record on the calendar each vegetable, the date planted, and the number of days to germination, and the days until harvest. Outdoors a. The soil should be level, friable, and slightly moist (not soaking wet). b. Ensure the soil is warm enough for seeds to sprout and for seedlings to thrive. c. If preparing space for the January or April cycle modules, place black plastic over the area to be planted; this will warm the soil in preparation for planting. d. Discuss the planting design, i.e., rows, circles, student initials, etc. e. Prepare one label with the vegetable name and date for each vegetable. Prepare one label with each student’s name for each vegetable they help plant. f. Prepare a list of each vegetable, the date planted, and the number of days to germination (use calendar provided). 25 Planting seeds: Indoors a. Plant one kind of vegetable in each cell-pack. Plant seeds at the proper depth; follow the directions on the back of the seed packet. Retain seed packets for later reference. Plant a few seeds in each cell to ensure germination of one healthy individual. b. Label each cell-pack with one vegetable label and one label of each student who planted the seeds. c. Water lightly and thoroughly with a misting-water bottle. d. Create a cover for each cell-pack using a one-gallon plastic storage bag and a twisty-tie. Place each planted cell pack on the grow light shelves. e. Place covered cell-packs under lights of grow lights. Lights should be no greater than 2”-4” above the covers of the cell trays. f. Record planting dates on the calendar. Outdoors a. Plant seeds at the proper depth; follow the directions on the back of the seed packet. Retain seed packets for later reference. b. Place vegetable label and label of each student who planted the seeds to avoid disturbing the space until the seeds sprout. c. Water lightly and thoroughly with a watering can. d. For dormant outdoor cycle, plant spinach and other cold hardy greens. Plant seeds or transplants in October, November, December to get established before hard freeze. Mulch heavily; allow dormancy during January, February, and March. Remove heavy mulch in April, May, June. e. Record planting dates on the calendar. Maintaining proper moisture before sprouting: Indoors Check the cell-packs regularly. If the surface of the soil-less medium dries out, seeds planted in the medium – after initially being watered – will die. a. Any time the surface looks dry, open the covers and spray as needed with the misting-water bottle. b. The plastic storage bags or the cell tray covers should look foggy. The potting soil should be visible through the covers. c. If the plastic cover is too moist (dripping with water and can’t be seen through), remove briefly, monitor, and cover again when the covers are foggy; be sure the soil-less medium has not dried on the surface. 26 Maintaining proper moisture before sprouting: Outdoors Check the garden twice daily. If the surface of the soil dries out, seeds planted – after initially being watered – will die. a. Any time the surface looks dry, water as needed with a watering can. b. If row covers are installed, choose a sunny, windless day to lift portions of the row cover to water the bed below. Maintaining proper light before sprouting: Indoors a. Lights need to remain on overnight. b. Check daily for sprout growth, adjusting the grow lights upward as needed (keeping them no greater than 2-4” above the tops of the plants). Outdoors a. Check daily for sprout growth, ensuring no litter has blown into the garden bed and is shading the seeds. Checking regularly to confirm seed sprouting: Indoors a. If more than one seedling sprouted in each cell, Identify the straightest, strongest, shortest, healthiest seedling in each container. b. Remove secondary seedlings by cleanly pinching off with fingernails or cleanly cutting with small scissors, taking care not to damage the remaining single straight, strong, healthy seedling. c. Know the number of days to germination. Some seeds sprout within a few days; some need almost three weeks to germinate. Check the quick reference guide and the back of the seed pack for information on germination time. d. When each cell in a cell-pack has a visible sprout, carefully remove the plastic cover. e. Readjust the Grow Lights to be no greater than 2-4” above the tops of the sprouts. 27 Checking regularly to confirm seed sprouting: Outdoors a. Know the number of days to germination. Some seeds sprout within a few days; some need almost three weeks to germinate. Check the quick reference guide, and be aware that germination time is dependent on temperature and other factors.. b. When most of the seeds have sprouted, continue to water lightly each day. Thinning Indoors Allow some time to thin your seedlings. You’ll want to do this around the time you start thinking about transplanting. Planting multiple seeds ensure germination of at least one individual, but too many plants in a small space will get in each other’s way. If you have the space, multiple seedlings can be separated and transplanted instead of thinned. If you don’t have a lot of room it is recommended that one seedling be selected. By removing competition for light, nutrients, water, and space you make a better growing environment for the chosen seedling. a. From each cell, select the individual that is shortest, straightest, and healthiest in appearance. b. Remove all other seedlings by snipping them off at the base with a pair of scissors or pinch them off using the nails of your index finger and thumb. c. You now have a pile of organic matter that is ready for composting! This can be fed to the worms in a vermiculture bin or put into an outdoor composter. d. Thinning provides an opportunity to discuss the life cycle, death, and decomposition with questions such as: Why did the plants have to be thinned? Why was the healthiest one picked and the others removed? Are the non-deceased plants still contributing to the life cycle? IN what way? e. You now have some left over potting soil. Contact SLUG staff to pick it up. 28 Outdoors Plan some time to thin your seedlings. Planting a row or broadcasting seeds often results in sprouts that are too close together for optimum growth. Too many plants in a small space will get in each other’s way. Thinning allows each plant to grow larger. By removing competition for light, nutrients, water, and space you make a better growing environment for the chosen seedling. a. Remove (thin) every second or third plant in a row or broadcast area. b. Grasp plant at base of stem or leaves. c. Pull gently, removing each plant and its roots. d. Gently hold down surround soil and plants, if necessary. e. If space allows, transplant the thinned seedlings to another space in the garden bed. f. Repeat this process every few weeks until reaching the optimum space for each mature plant. g. Any time you thin, compost any organic matter that accumulates. h. Thinning provides an opportunity to discuss the life cycle, death, and decomposition with questions such as: Why did the plants have to be thinned? Why was the healthiest one picked and the others removed? Are the non-deceased plants still contributing to the life cycle? IN what way? Preparing space to transplant seedlings: Indoors a. Prepare enough containers to plant a few selected seedlings from each cell into a separate pot. Use the remaining seedlings for exploration and to feed to compost worms. Outdoors a. Discuss the feasibility of transplanting some plant containers and bringing them into the classroom during the winter. Special plant care instructions: Indoors and Outdoors a. Spinach should not be grown inside; it prefers cool weather. The warmth of a classroom will make it bolt (flower). b. Root vegetables generally do not transplant successfully. Transplanting root crops often causes root damage, resulting in irregular and stunted produce. Select a larger container for planting root crops. c. The following plans can grow under densely packed conditions. They can be “broadcast” or scattered across a community pack: chives, micro greens, red stem radish, and bunching onions. 29 Transplanting seedlings: Indoors a. Plants are ready to transplant when they have one set of true leaves (about two weeks after plants sprout). b. Handle seedlings by true leaves, cotyledons, or soil-less medium plug because the stem is fragile! Avoid disturbing roots when transplanting. c. SLUG staff will assist setting up a water wicking system in preparation for transplanting. d. Plant the seedlings, ensuring the soil line of the plug is the same as the soil line of the larger container when it is planted. e. Water the potting soil gently (to not damage the seedlings) and thoroughly (some water might exit the drainage holes at the bottom of the containers). This gently packs the soil around the roots and helps establish a successful transplant. f. Place the containers onto the grow light shelf. Ensure the lights are the proper distance from the top of the tray (no more than 2”). g. Ensure potting soil is moist before adding fertilizer. Add fertilizer at the amounts and times instructed by SLUG staff. h. Compost excess plant material! Transplanting seedlings: Outdoors If you have started seeds in your indoor garden to plant outdoors, the seeds will need to be hardened off, or acclimatized, before they are ready to be planted outside. A seedling that has been started indoors has had a pampered life – regular watering, a steady light source, a windless environment and no pests. It’s a far cry from an outdoor garden, and the shock of a sudden change can be lethal to a young seedling! Therefore, seedlings must go through a period of hardening off before they are ready to be transplanted. Hardening off: a. On a mild day, set the seedlings out for a few hours in a shaded, protected place. Plan to take them outside when you arrive at school and bring them back in around lunch time. b. Repeat the process for two or three day, checking the forecast before you et them out. c. As weather permits, the seedling should now spend a few days in their pots resting in the garden and under a layer of row cover. Be sure to bring them in at night! d. After a week to ten days, seedlings should be ready to transplant. 30 Transplanting: a. Handle seedlings by true leaves, cotyledons, or soil plug. b. Plant the seedlings, ensuring the soil line of the transplant is the same as the soil line of the container it came from. c. Water the soil gently (to not damage the seedlings) and thoroughly (small puddles should remain on the soil surface for 10 – 15 minutes). Maintaining proper moisture for seedlings and transplants: Indoors a. Check the containers regularly. b. Gently examine the potting soil (at the edge of the pot, away from the seedling) to see if there is moisture in the pot as deep as the root zone of the seedling. c. Allow the surface to dry out between watering; keep the area of the root zone moist, not sopping wet (roots needs oxygen or they will drown!). d. Regular amounts of water and regular watering days and times will nurture plants; irregular water amounts and irregular watering days and times can stress plants. e. Implement the water wicking system (the SLUG staff helped you set up) for long period of time the plants will be untended (vacations, holidays). Outdoors Check the garden regularly. a. Use a rain gauge to monitor rain amounts. b. If row covers are installed, choose a sunny, windless day to lift portions of the row cover to water the bed below. c. Gently examine the soil at the “root zone” (away from the seedling stem) to see if there is moisture as deep as the root zone of the seedling. d. Allow the surface to dry out between watering; keep the area of the root zone moist, not sopping wet. e. Regular amounts of water and regular watering days and times will nurture plants; irregular water amounts and irregular watering days and times can stress plants. f. Water amount equivalent to one inch per week is the “rule of thumb.” 31 Maintaining proper light: Indoors a. Lights may need to remain on overnight. b. Place transplant pots on grow light shelves near a sunny window or provide additional light (use eco-friendly bulbs; avoid incandescent bulbs, as they get too hot). c. Check daily for plant growth, adjusting the grow lights upward as needed (keeping them no greater than 2-4” above the tops of the plants). d. Large pots may need additional light. e. Use eco-friendly light; avoid incandescent lights, as they can get too hot for the plants. f. Seedlings lean towards light. To encourage straight growth, rotate seedling cells one quarter turn each day (always the same direction) so they do not lean too far in one direction. g. Outdoors a. Sunshine, sunshine, sunshine! Warm season vegetables thrive with 8 – 10 hours of sunlight; cool season vegetables require a minimum of six hours sunlight. b. Check temperature under covers to ensure it’s NOT TOO HOT! Checking regularly to confirm plant growth and health: Indoors a. Remove any plant identified as a weed. b. Contact SLUG staff regarding any discolored, weak, unusual plant growth. Outdoors a. If seedlings are closer than the “space between plants” recommendation, carefully “thin” by cleanly pinching off with fingernails or cleanly cutting with small scissors b. Remove any plant identified as a weed. c. Contact SLUG staff regarding any discolored, weak, unusual plant growth. 32 Checking regularly to confirm temperature protection: Indoors a. Notify SLUG staff for assistance during any extended periods when your school building might be without heat. Outdoors a. Check the weather reports regularly; anticipate cold weather. b. Apply season extender cloth, lights (covers), mulch, or quilt material when temperature is below 40 F degrees. c. Ensure application of cover does not smother or retard growth of seedlings. Harvesting: Check SLUG’s wikispace for advice regarding “optimum size” for harvesting each vegetable: http://bnan.wikispaces.com/ Indoors a. b. c. d. Harvest vegetable at optimum size. Handle gently to avoid bruising and damaging. Store harvest at proper temperature to prevent spoilage. Distribute in a timely fashion to someone who will make use of them (or have the students prepare a snack using the harvest). Outdoors a. Remove temperature protection on a windless, sunny day to harvest. b. Harvest vegetable at optimum size. c. Harvest transplants by removing whole plant (beets, carrots, kohlrabi, radish, turnips) or removing large, outside leaves of leafy plants (chard, Chinese cabbage, kale, lettuce, mustard, spinach), or by cutting off florets (broccoli). d. Handle gently to avoid bruising and damaging. e. Store harvest at proper temperature to prevent spoilage. f. Distribute in a timely fashion to someone who will make use of them (or have the students prepare a snack using the harvest). 33 Succession Planting Indoors Succession planting is the act of resowing seeds or transplanting seedlings where a crop has been recently harvested. This allows for more plant to be grown in a smaller space. Succession planting can happen any time during the module. Follow the previous planting instructions. Seeds can also be started indoors for transplanting outside. This is especially useful in the early spring when it’s too cold for plants to be seed outdoors. When doing succession planting, remember: a. Select plants that will mature within the desired time frame. b. Have a plan for the seeds you’re planting, such as harvest, exploration, etc. c. Use fresh potting soil. Outdoors Succession planting is the act of re-sowing seeds or transplanting seedlings where a crop has been recently harvested. This allows for more plant to be grown in a smaller space. Succession planting can happen any time during the module. Follow the previous planting instructions. Seeds can also be started indoors for transplanting outside. This is especially useful in the early spring when it’s too cold for plants to be seed outdoors. When doing succession planting, remember: a. Select plants that will mature within the desired time frame. b. Have a plan for the seeds you’re planting, such as harvest, exploration, etc. c. Follow soil fertilization guidelines suggested by SLUG staff. 34 Use and Care of Gardening Equipment and Tools Indoors Coordinate with SLUG staff for delivery of equipment and supplies. Allow two – three weeks at the end of the BPS school season to arrange for pick up of indoor grow lights, vermiculture bins and materials for storage. After transplanting, contact SLUG staff to pick up used, excess potting soil. Outdoors Coordinate with SLUG staff for delivery of equipment and supplies. Allow two – three weeks at the end of the BPS school season to arrange for pick up of row cover supplies, tools, and materials for storage. 35 Recommendations for Growing Vegetables Indoors There are a number of issues to take into consideration when selecting vegetables for indoor gardening, as each plant responds differently to its environment. The following are just a few pointers to help you successfully select and grow vegetables in your classroom. Temperature Plants such as spinach and kale require cool temperatures. Experience shows that when grown indoors, spinach and kale bolt before they reach a harvestable size. Transplanting and Container Size Not all plants are happy in the same kind of container and not all can be transplanted. For some plants it is ideal to start them in a six-pack and then transplant them to another pot. Other plants will not tolerate transplanting. Root crops such as beets, turnips, and carrots do not transplant reliably. Often roots become damaged during transplanting, and the edible part of the plant may not grow properly. If you want to grow root crops in your indoor garden, direct seed them into larger pots. Be sure the pots are deep enough to allow the plants to achieve mature size. Some vegetables can be grown in very close quarters. Chives, red stem radish sprouts, micro greens, and bunching onions can be broadcast across a community pack or other pot with minimal thinning. On page 38 and 39 are lists of vegetables and their ideal container size. As you decide what you’ll grow, coordinate with SLUG staff for delivery of the appropriate containers. Support Plants such as scarlet runner beans will require a trellis for support. A simple trellis can be made by placing three dowels in a pot and lashing them together at the top to make a sort of “teepee” for the plant. 36 Materials and Supplies List for grow lights & container gardening: Needed for Grow Lights Permanent Materials Needed for Grow Lights Materials Needing Replenishing Seeds-vegetable, herb, flower Soil-less potting medium Seed-starting inserts with 1-gallon plastic storage bags with twisty-ties Plastic plant labels Grow Lights with Shelves Wax pencils Misting-water bottles Table covers (to contain “mess”) Scoop to fill seed trays with potting medium Needed for Container Growing Materials Needing Replenishing Needed for Container Growing Permanent Materials Materials for Grow Lights – see “replenishing” list above Soil-less potting medium Compost Garden twine Scoop to fill seed planters with potting medium Granular slow-release fertilizer or Coast of Maine Plant Food Materials for Grow Lights – see “permanent” list above Pots, various sizes Small watering cans with “gentle spray nozzle” Small trellis Scissors Table covers (to contain “mess”) Scoop to fill seed planters with potting medium Also Helpful for Grow Lights & Container Growing Dust pan and small broom Paper towels or rags Indoor storage space Painter’s cloth or planter tray 37 Vegetables & Container Size needed Crop Minimum Size Number Plants Per Container Beans, green 1 Gallon 2-3 plants Beets 2 Gallon thinned to 2-3” apart Cabbage 1 Gallon 1 plant Carrots 2 Gallon thinned to 2-3” apart Chard 1 Gallon 1 plant Cucumber 1 Gallon 2 plants Eggplant 2 Gallon 1 plant Lettuce (leaf) 1 Gallon 4-6 plants Pepper 2 Gallon 2 plants Radishes 2 Gallon thinned to 1-2” apart Spinach 1 Gallon thinned to 3” apart Tomatoes – cherry 1 Gallon 1 plant Tomatoes – standard 3 Gallon 1 plant 38 Container Size & Amount of Soil Mix Inside Diameter Approximate Soil Content 3” 1 Cup 4” 2 1/2 Cups 5” 1 Quart 6” 2 1/2 Quarts 7” 3 Quarts 8” 1 Gallon 9” 1 1/2 Gallons 10” 2 1/4 Gallons 12” 3 1/2 Gallons 14” 6 Gallons 39 Soil Mix Recipes – example #1 MATERIALS TO MAKE 2 BUSHELS Shredded peat moss OR EQUIVALENT 1 bushel Vermiculite 1 bushel Ground limestone 1 1/4 Cups Superphosphate (0-20-0) OR Superphosphate (0-45-0) 1/2 Cup Granular 5-10-5 fertilizer 1 Cup Moisten with water; store in plastic. Moisten with water; store in plastic. Soil Mix Recipes – example #2 MATERIALS TO MAKE 2 BUSHELS Compost 1 1/2 bushel Dehydrated cow manure 1/2 bushel Granular 5-10-5 fertilizer 2 Cup Moisten similar to wrung-out sponge; store in plastic. Moisten similar to wrung-out sponge; store in plastic. 1/4 Cup 40 Materials and Supplies List for outdoor & container gardening: Needed for Outdoor Growing Permanent Materials Needed for Outdoor Growing Materials Needing Replenishing Materials for Grow Lights (see page 53 – “permanent”) 8” deep (minimum” x 4’ x 8’) planting bed Compost (enough to fill planting bed) Rain gauge High-Low thermometer Watering cans Water hoses Water Y-valves Water shut-off valves Wax pencils Wire hoops Floating crop covers Wooden or bamboo stakes Scissors Trowels Hand cultivators Shovels Large planters (to bring transplants indoors during extreme cold periods) Materials for Grow Lights (see page 53 – “replenishing”) Compost (enough to replenish small amount yearly) Granular slow-release fertilizer Plant markers Wax pencils Wire hoops Floating crop covers (may need replacement after 3 – 4 years) Heavy cold protection covers Wooden or bamboo stakes (may need replacement after 3 – 4 years) Garden twine Mulch, i.e. straw, salt marsh hay, etc. Trowels Gloves Sunscreen Insect Repellent Hats? Also Helpful for Outdoor Growing Garden hoses Dust pan and small broom Paper towels or rags Storage space Clean sacks for harvest 41 Recommended Vegetables for Fall Planting Beet Broccoli Carrots Cauliflower Chard Collard Endive Kale Leek Lettuce Mesclun Mixed Greens Mustard Greens Mizuna Radish Spinach ‘ Turnip ‘Winter Keeper’, ‘Ruby Queen’ ‘Purple Sprouting’, ’Green Comet Hybrid’ ‘Imperator’ strains ‘Snow Crown Hydrid’ ‘Fordhook Giant’ ‘Champion’ ‘Neos’, ‘Green Curled’ ‘Lacinato’, ‘Siberian’, ‘Winterbor’, ‘Dwarf Blue Curled’ ‘Giant Musselburgh’ ‘Winter Densitiy’, ‘Buttercrunch’, ‘Salad Bowl’ ‘Kyoto’ Olympia’, ‘Teton’, ‘ Melody Hybrid’, ‘Winter Bloomsdale’ ‘Just Right Hybrid’, ‘Purple Top White Globe’ 42 GOOD GARDENING PRACTICES These guidelines will help protect you from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon (PAH), lead (Pb) and other contaminates commonly in urban soil. Wear gloves while gardening Wash hands after gardening and before eating Wash and scrub vegetables before eating or cooking Change gardening shoes before entering home so as not to track excessive dirt indoors Don’t let children eat soil Add organic matter to soil, such as compost Till soil only to a depth of 6” – 8” Avoid deep digging or double digging Use mulch to lessen splashing of soil onto plants Don’t use railroad ties or pressure treated (CCA) wood Prepared by: Boston University School of Public Health, Department of Environmental Health Distributed by: Boston Natural Areas Network 43 44 WHEN TO PLANT Vegetable Bean, Scarlet Runner Beet *Broccoli Brussels Sprouts *Cabbage Depth to Plant Seed Day to Germination Hardy 1 – 1½” Seeds Hardy Apr 15-Jun 1 Seed or Plant Apr 15-Jun 1 Method of Growing SLUG version Spacing Rows Days to Harvest 5-10 at 70F 6: 5 ft. 70 6 ¼” 6-1`0 at 70F 3-4” 12-18” 50-60 45 Hardy ¼” 5-10 at 70F 6 18” 14-36” 50-70 10 Heavy feeder, especially Nitrogen Seed or Plant Hardy ¼” 8-10 at 70F 6 18-24” 24-36” 80-90 10 Usually best as a fall crop Apr 15-Jun 15 Seed or Plant Hardy ¼” 5-10 at 70F 6 24-36 60-90 10 Protect transplants against cutworms 6-8 18-24” 24-36” 45 10 1½ - 2” 12-18” 55-80 90 Zone 5 May 1-Aug 1 May 15-Aug1 Seeds Apr 15-Aug 1 Weeks to Transplant Plants per Person Spacing Plants Zone 6 Apr 1-Jun 15 Jul 15-Aug 1 Mar 25-May 1 Aug 1-Sep 15 May 25-May 1 Aug 1-Sep 15 Mar 10-Apr 10 Aug 1 – Sep 15 Cold Hardy or Tender HOW TO PLANT 12-24 Comments Provide poles for support Provide continuous moisture Pak Choy, a nonheading cabbage, tolerates crowding Plant in short, wide rows *Cabbage, Chinese Jun 15-Aug 15 Jun 1-Jul 15 Seed or Plant Hardy ¼” 3-5 at 70F Carrot Apr 5-Jun 1 Apr 5-Jul 1 Seeds Hardy 1/8” 7-10 at 6070F Cauliflower *Apr 1-May 10 Aug 1-Sep 15 Apr 15-Jun 15 Seed or Plant Hardy ¼” 4-10 at 70F 6-8 24” 18-36” 65-80 10 Bolts to seed with warm weather Celery Apr 10-May 1 Apr 10-Jun 15 Seed or Plant Hardy 1/8” 10-14 at 65F 10-12 12 24-36” 95-150 15 Blanching stems improves flavor Apr 15-Jun 15 Seeds Hardy ½’” 4-10 at 70F 3-4 12” 18-36” 45-55 15 Pay close attention to thinning Apr 1-Apr 15 Seed or Plant Hardy ¼” 4-10 at 70F 5-6 12-24” 24-36” 60-70 10 Slight frost improves flavor Apr 20-Jun 1 Seeds Hardy ¼” 3-7 at 70F 6” 12” 60 30 Plants will survive cold winters Apr 15-May 15 Seeds Hardy ¼” 7-14 at 70F 9-12” 18” 70-80 15 Bunch leaves over heart to sweeten Apr 1-May 15 Bulbs (cloves) Hardy 2” 10 at 55-70F 4” 12” 90 6 cloves Each clove segment produces a new plant Chard, Swiss Collards Cress, Upland Endive Garlic Apr 1-Jun 15 Aug 1-Sep 15 Mar 15-Apr 15 Aug 1-Sep 15 Mar 20-May 10 Aug 15-Oct 1 Apr 1-May 1 Aug 1-Sep 15 Mar 10-Apr 15 *Transplants are preferred 45 WHEN TO PLANT Vegetable *Husk Tomato Kale Kohlrabi Leek Lettuce Mustard *Onion *Parsley Parsnip *Pepper *Potato Radish Zone 6 Zone 5 Method of Growing Cold Hardy Or Tender HOW TO PLANT Depth to Plant Seed SLUG version Days to Germinatio n Weeks to Transplant Spacing Plants Spacing Rows Days to Harvest Plants per Person May 1 May 15 Plants Tender ¼” 7-14 at 70F 8 36” 36” 70 5 Mar 20-Apr 20 Aug 1-Sep 15 Mar 20-May 10 Aug 1-Sep 15 Apr 10-May 10 Seed or Plant Hardy ¼” 3-10 at 70F 4 18” 24-36” 50-65 10 Apr 10-Jun 30 Seed or Plant Hardy ½” 3-10 at 70F 4-6 4-6” 18” 50-70 30 Hardy ½” 7-14 at 70F 4-6 2-4” 12-24” 140 45 Hardy ¼” 4-10 at 5565F 4 12: 18” 6070 15 Mar 15-May 1 Apr 1-May 1 Aug 1-Sep 15 Mar 20-May 10’Aug 1-Sep 15 Mar 15-Apr 15 Mar 20-May 1 Aug 1-Sep 15 Apr 1-May 1 Aug 1-Sep 15 May 15-Jun 10 Jun 1-Jul 1 Apr 1-May 10 May 15-Jun 15 Mar 10-May 10 Aug 15-Sep 15 Apr 15-May 20 Apr 20-Jun 30 Seed or Plant Seed or Plant Seed or Plant Hardy ½” 3-5 at 70F 4 12” 18-24” 35-60 20 Apr 10-May 15 Seeds, Plants, Sets Hardy ¼” 7-12 at 70F 6 4” 6-12” 75 45 Apr 15-May 15 Apr 20-May 20 Seed or Plant Hardy 1/8” 7-28 at 70F 6-8 6-12” 12” 50 2 Seeds Hardy ¼” 15-20 at 70F 4-6” 12-18” 120 60 Jun 1-Jun 15 Plants Very Tender ¼’ 10-15 at 70F 8 18-24” 24” 70-100 5 Harvest fruit regularly May 1-Jun 15 Tubers or Seeds Hardy ¼” 5-10 at 70F 8 12” 30” 90-105 15 Potato seed has recently become available Apr 1-Jun 15 Seeds Hardy ½” 4-6 at 60F 1” 12” 25-35 80 Provide with constant moisture Bulbs form in clusters Mar 15-May 1 Apr 10-May 10 Bulbs Hardy Surface Sow 7-10 at 55F 8” 12” 100 25 Spinach Mar 15-Apr 20 Aug 1-Sep 15 Apr 1-Jun 15 Seeds Hardy ½” 7-12 at 5060F 4-6” 12-18” 40-50 30 Sweet Potato May 15-Jun 15 Difficult to grow Plants Very Tender 3-4” 1`0 at 70F 6 12” 4 ft 120 15 May 5-Jul 15 Jun 1-Jul 1 Mar 10-May 1 Aug 1-Sep 15 May 20-Jun 15 Plants Tender ¼” 6-14 at 70F 6-8 24-36” 36-48” 55-90 3-5 Apr 1-Jun 15 Seeds Hardy ½” 7-10 at 70F ¾” 12-18” 40-60 30 Turnip Also known as Ground Cherry/Cape Gooseberry Hardy enough for winter greens Turnip-like bulbs form on the stem above the soil Leave in garden until ground freezes Space leaf types 6-8” apart Apr 15-Jun 30 Shallot *Tomato Comments *Transplants are preferred 46 Grow as a fall crop Space green bunching types 2” apart Outdoor sowings are slow to germinate Leave in garden until ground freezes Grow spinach substitutes during warm weather One root produces may sprouts for planting Use wire cages for supports Tops make delicious greens INDOOR: VERMICULTURE (WORM BIN) Worm your way (?!) into indoor composting by using worms to eat food scraps. Vermicomposting (worm composting) makes it easy to recycle your food waste and make compost to use in your vegetable garden. Worms can eat half their weight in food scraps each day! Worm bin basics: Use the redworm Eisenia fetida (red wiggler), not the commonly found “earthworm” from your garden. Redworms are readily available from a friend’s compost pile, a local fish bait supplier (you’ll need to be specific about the species you need), or online. Setting up the worm bin: Use the plastic bin provided by the SLUG program. Worm bedding, water, and food scraps are all you’ll need to add. Place the worm bin where the temperatures will range from 50 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it away from heat sources (radiators) and cold drafts (doors and windows). A cool dark spot is optimum. Worm bedding: Worm bedding helps keep the worms moist and allows food scraps to be buried to prevent odors. Shredded black and white newspaper works well for “grit” to help the worms digest and is an additional way to recycle. You can also add coir bricks—ground up coconut husks (provided by BNAN/SLUG). Moisture: Worms need moisture, not a flood. Worms are 75-90 percent water. Because they breathe through their skin, it is important that the worms stay moist. After shredding the bedding, add water and check for moisture: squeezing a handful of bedding should produce a few drops of water. If it is too wet, add more dry bedding. Food: Worms need a balanced diet, just like you and me. Here is a list of what they like (YUMMY!) and don’t like (YUCKY!). TIP: cover the food with the bedding to prevent odors and fruit flies from invading your bin. YUMMY! YUCKY! Anything green – especially the leafy stuff! Citrus – no orange, lemon or lime; too acidic! Fruits – most are OK. Fats, Oils, Salad dressing – creates odors. Vegetables – good diet! Breads & Cereals – can attract gnats. Coffee grounds & filter – OK! Sweets – no processed sugars! Tea bags – OK! Meat – creates odors; attracts unwanted guests (like maggots). Eggshells – crushed; adds calcium & Garlic, Onions – attracts unwanted prevents acidic conditions. guests. Coir Bricks & Brown Paper – “grit to help Feces – contains bacteria harmful for worms digest”; best bedding for indoor humans to handle. worm bins. Black & White newspaper – “grit to help Salt, Seasoned Foods – yucky for worms digest”; soy-based inks only! worms. Food scrap container: Store food scraps in a sealed container (to avoid odors). Add small amounts of scraps initially to the worm bin. As the worm population grows, a larger amount of scraps can be added periodically. TIP: Chop or tear the scraps. The more you break scraps down for them, the faster they will work! 48 Worm food rotation: You can feed the worms in a rotating pattern, burying the food in a different spot each day. Harvest (two methods): 1) Harvest the compost by placing the worm bin contents on a plastic sheet. A bright light placed overhead will cause the worms to crawl to the bottom of the pile. You can scoop off the compost from the top of the pile while the worms hide from the light. 2) Move the contents of the bin to one side and add fresh bedding and food to the other side. A bright light focused on the side with the worms will encourage the worms to crawl to the other side. When the worms move into the new bedding, you can remove the finished compost. Worm compost uses: Potting mix: Mix together 1/4 part worm compost which adds nutrients, 1/4 part phagnum moss which holds moisture, 1/4 part perlite which increases aeration, and 1/4 part sand or soil which adds body. Container plants: Spread worm compost up to 1/4 inch deep on the top of container plant soil. Seedling transplant: Sprinkle worm compost in the seed row or the hole where the garden plant is transplanted. 49 Troubleshooting: Problem Worms are dying or trying to escape Probable Cause Too wet Too dry Bedding is used up Solution Add more bedding Moisten bedding Harvest your bin Bin stinks! Not enough air Too much food Too wet Drill more ventilation holes Do not feed for 1-2 weeks Add more bedding Fruit Flies Exposed food Bury food in bedding Drain Flies, Sewage Flies Rotting food Do not feed for 1-2 weeks Add more bedding Maggots Outside flies getting in Oil/Meat added to bin Remove, scoop them out Materials and Supplies List for Vermiculture: Plastic bin* Black and white newspaper** Coir bricks* Water Spray Bottle* Food scraps Food scrap container* Container for harvesting compost* Seedlings *Provided by BNAN/SLUG program **USE SOY-BASED INKS ONLY; AVOID COLORED INK; AVOID “SLICK” PAPER 50 OUTDOOR: COMPOST BASICS Compost benefits: Garden plants take the nutrients they need to grow from the soil and turn these nutrients into fruits and vegetables. But if the soil is to provide the necessary elements for our garden plants year after year, the soil nutrients that have been taken out must be replaced. This can be done by composting. Here’s a list of the many wonderful benefits of compost: Improves soil structure by adding organic matter. Increases the amount of micro-organisms in garden soil, which is the best indicator of soil fertility. Attracts and feeds earthworms and healthy macro-organisms. Delivers nutrients to soil and plants for optimum growth (usually not including phosphorous). Makes clay soils “airy” so they drain. Gives sandy soils “body” to hold moisture. Balances Ph (acidity/alkalinity) of soil. Builds sound root structure. Healthy roots make healthy plants. Reduces water demands of plants. Helps control soil erosion. Reduces plant stress from climate extremes (drought, freezes). Can extend the growing season. Reduces the availability of toxins such as lead in the soil. Reduces the availability and spread of plant diseases & disorders. Improves the vitamin and mineral content in food. Reduces reliance on synthetic chemical fertilizers. Reduces the amount of waste going to landfills. Setting up the bin: Use the bin provided by BNAN (or make or purchase a similar passive composting bin). Place the bin in partial sun and shade. Place the bin near the garden plot, so weeds and other plant material can easily be added to the bin. For each passive bin, reserve two spaces: when the bin is full or compost harvest is desired, move the passive bin to the second space and start over with whatever was not fully composted in the bin’s first space. 51 Necessary ingredients: Water (as wet as a wrung-out sponge) Air Nitrogen (greens) – such as fresh manure, fresh plant material Carbon (browns) – such as black & white newspaper, dead and dry leaves Micro-organisms (bacteria, fungus) – such as a teaspoon full of soil Macro-organisms (beetles, centipedes, earthworms, compost worms, pill bugs, earwigs, dung beetles, slugs, etc.) – they’ll find your bin Passive composting: A small garden plot can use passive (cold, small bin) composting. Passive composting is less labor intensive, does not require that all the materials be added at the same time (or within a few weeks), and materials can be added gradually. Compost is generally higher in Nitrogen content than with active composting. Area should be at least 3’ x 3’ x 4’. Passive composting takes a little longer, but is useful as it provides a close-by space for plant material removed from the garden and keeps the pile looking neat. Active composting: Active hot) composting requires a large, regularly turned, tested and monitored site. When properly managed and screened, it can produce compost that does not contain weed seed and plant pathogens. If the SLUG garden does not have space for a passive bin, consider ordering a partial load of compost from the City’s municipal site by contacting BNAN in January. 52 Materials to put and not put into the bin: Almost any organic material that accumulates in gardens can be composted. Some plant materials, such as tree twigs, corn cobs, and thick plant stems (tomatoes, peppers, okra, etc.) take a long time to decay. Tear or cut plant material into small pieces (4” – 6”) before composting. SMALL PLANT MATERIALS IS LESS ATTRACTIVE TO PESTS. CHOOSE A RODENT-PROOF BIN IN DENSE URBAN AREAS. NO, NO, NO, NO, NO! meat and fish scraps and bones. dairy products. peanut butter. fats or oils or grease. pet feces (contains bacteria that can cause human illness). kitty litter. weed seeds. weeds that spread by roots or runners. ash from treated charcoal. non-organic material (plastic, glass, metal). poisonous plants. any diseased or insect-infested plants. any grass or plant material that has been treated with weed killer. large plant material YES, YES, YES, YES, YES! leaves & chopped up brush (if not treated with pesticides) plant cuttings (if not treated) fruit scraps vegetable scraps grains coffee grounds tea bags egg shells wood chips (from solid wood) sawdust (not sanding dust) wood ash old potting soil napkins, paper towels small plant material (chop it up!) It’s ready to use: Generally, compost is ready to use “when there are no visible signs of what was originally put in...” When you pick up compost that is ready to use, it will be dark, crumbly, and smell “earthy.” Ways to use compost: Compost can be turned into the soil (like fertilizer or amendments), spread on the surface around plants like mulch, or used as a growing medium for seeds. Compost that is added as mulch will aid in water conservation. Compost that is turned in will act as a “slow-release” fertilizer and provide other benefits. 53 54 COMPOSTING AT SCHOOL Should we have a compost site at our school? PROS *can have all the benefits of improved soil, decreased landfill, etc. CONS *can be negative public relations if poorly managed (i.e., attracts pests or is unsightly) Who will manage the composting site? Will there be signage instructing the proper use of the site? Who will monitor and maintain what gets put into the bin(s)? Who will monitor and maintain the site for problems (pests, dry contents, wet contents, etc.)? Who will monitor and maintain the general appearance of the site? Where should we place the composting site? The site needs to be sunny (warm) enough to support the composting process. The site needs to be shaded (dappled or partial shade) enough to keep the contents from drying out on extremely sunny, hot days. The site needs to be easily watered, if necessary. The site needs to be close enough to the vegetable plots to encourage use. The site needs to be big enough to load plant material and unload compost. Can the site also accommodate the yearly delivery of compost from the City? 55 What type of bin should we use? How expensive is it and who pays for it? Who assembles it? Is it pest proof? Is it large enough? (Each bin should be at least 3’ x 3’ x 4’.) Is it easily re-located or replaced? Is it durable? Is it made of non-toxic materials? Possible types of bins for passive composting: STANDARD ADJUSTABLE BRAVE NEW COMPOSTER BIO-STACK COMPOSTER KITCHEN DIGESTER SLATTED BIN EARTH MACHINE 56 COMPOST MYTHS AND FACTS You can spend lots and lots of money, lots and lots of time, lots and lots of mental energy, or you can compost. Composting is a simple, natural process that will happen in spite of the myths and misunderstandings that prevail. The spread of these myths has occurred by word of mouth, misguided publications from solid waste managers and, worst of all, hard-core marketing. We encourage people to compost without getting bogged down in mythology and misunderstandings. Keep composting inexpensive and simple. Help put to rest some of the popular myths and misunderstandings: Bins MYTH: “To compost, you have to have this kind of bin...” FACT: There are an endless variety of commercial designs available from black plastic cubes with sliding doors to rotating drums to free-wheeling spheres. The prices range from tens to hundreds of dollars. Advertisements and popular literature lead many composting novices to believe that an enclosed bin is essential. The reality is that heaps or piles work just fine for composting. If you need to keep your pile tidy to avoid offending your neighbors, consider using wire mesh, or reusing scrap lumber, shipping pallets, cinder blocks or snow-fencing. Urban composters may need to contain their compost in sturdy bins with lids, bases, and small apertures to keep out pests. (A perforated metal trash can is an excellent choice for city-dwellers.) If you want a prefabricated bin, consider volume before you buy: the more money often buys less capacity; the highest capacity models generally sell for less than $40. Bioactivators MYTH: “To get your composting really cookin’, you need this activator...” FACT: While the “snake oil” of composting (these bacteria-laden materials) do contain “cultured” strains of bacteria and other additives, the fact is that special inoculants are unnecessary. Recent studies suggest that there are approximately 10 trillion bacteria in a spoonful of garden soil. Every fallen leaf and blade of grass you add to your pile is already covered with hundreds of thousands of bacteria — more than enough to do the job. Yeast, elixirs, and worms MYTH: “Have you tried...?!” FACT: Some of the recommendations you might hear are just plain foolishness . For example, some people suggest pouring Coca Cola into the pile to increase biological activity; it will increase, but mostly in the form of yellow jackets and ants. Adding yeast is a common, but expensive and useless, practice. Adding worms or worm cocoons has become popular due to some confusion with vermicomposting. Worms do a tremendous amount of good, but there is no need for the composter to purchase or transplant them: “build a pile and they will come.” Fertilizer MYTH: “I heard that you should add fertilizer...” FACT: Adding nitrogen-rich fertilizer to the pile is wasteful and expensive. More importantly, synthetically derived fertilizers contain high salt levels and other compounds (perhaps even pesticides), which are harmful to worms and microorganisms; they may impair the nitrogen-fixing ability of the bacteria and short-circuit the nitrogen cycle. If you feel that you must add nitrogen (perhaps to a pile made up of only carbon-rich leaves), always try to use organic sources first: spent grounds from a coffee shop, a neighbor’s grass clippings, agriculture manures, or dried blood. Lime MYTH: “...and then you should sweeten the pile...” FACT: Even if a gardener makes compost with a high proportion of acidrich materials, it is a mistake to add lime to the pile to attempt to produce compost with a balanced Ph. Unfortunately, adding ground limestone will turn your compost ecosystem into an ammonia factory, with nitrogen rapidly lost as a noxious gas. Finished compost is always nearly neutral. Odors MYTH: “...I’m sure I should do something special to keep it from smelling badly...” FACT: Properly building and maintaining a compost pile results in compost that smells like a humus-sweet forest floor. Odors usually result from mistakes: trying to compost grass clippings by themselves, adding too many food scraps (or the wrong types of food), and allowing too much water to get into the pile or too little air, both of which will lead to anaerobic conditions. Rodents and pests MYTH: “...we can’t compost because it will attract pests...” FACT: Compost piles that contain only “hard trimming” almost never attract pests. Bird feeders, outdoor pet-food bowls, pet feces, and trash containers are well ahead of properly constructed compost piles as rodent attracters. But because pests are more problematic in urban areas, composters will want to avoid adding food scraps altogether or use a worm box or a completely enclosed bin. Composters in some dense urban areas find that an enclosed compost bin is necessary even when they’re composting just yard trimmings. 58 Layers MYTH: “...and you have to put the stuff in the pile this way...” FACT: Building a compost pile by layering browns/greens/browns/greens (as in a lasagna style) leads to layers of anaerobic activity where the greens (nitrogen-rich, wet) are clumped together and little activity at all where the browns (carbon-rich, dry) are clumped together. If you’re building a pile all at once, throw in an armful of browns, then an armful of greens, and add a little water as you go if your materials are dry. Then mix, stir, and fluff after every few additions for a hard-working compost stew. Fourteen-day compost MYTH: “...compost happens faster if you just...” FACT: Magazine ads can hoodwink well-intentioned gardeners into thinking that they can and must produce compost in 14 days. Such expectations are not realistic or worthy. Decomposition takes time. While producing compost quickly has some merit, no one should feel compelled to purchase chipper-shredders or other elaborate equipment. In fact, if the material looks like compost after several weeks, it still requires an additional one-month maturation period before it should be used in the garden. Compost calculus MYTH: “...and now for rocket science...” FACT: There are lots of books, periodicals, and composting brochures on the market (or on gardeners’ shelves) that obsess on carbon-to-nitrogen ratios. Gardeners can be overwhelmed by the arcane charts, tables, and formulas. In reality, compost piles thrive when different types of material (moist and dry, green and brown) are mixed together. And while ratios are fine for compost hobbyists or compost managers, regular gardeners need only remember that all organic materials will compost in a timely manner given some prudent attention. 59 Compost troubleshooting: Problem Bad odor, rotten odor Ammonia odor Probable Cause Excess moisture (anaerobic) Compaction (lacks air; anaerotic) Excess moisture Too much Nitrogen (lack of carbon) Solution Add dry material Move pile to areate Move pile to areate Add high carbon material (straw, wood chips, sawdust) Lack of Nitrogen Move and moisten pile Center of pile is dry Low compost temperature Pile too small Lack of moisture Lack of air Lack of nitrogen Cold weather Lack of nitrogen Mix in nitrogen source (fresh grass clippings or manure) Pile too large Insufficient ventilation Reduce pile size Move pile to areate Low surface area Remove items, and chop or shred large items Damp and sweetsmelling but will not heat up High compost temperature Add more to pile Move and moisten pile Move pile to areate Mix in nitrogen source (fresh grass clippings or manure) Add more to pile or insulate pile with layer of straw Large, undecomposted items in the mix Pests Presence of meat scraps or fatty food waste 60 Remove from pile, cover with layer of soil, build animal-proof bin, move pile to increase temperature Materials and Supplies List for compost: Compost bin (provided by BNAN/SLUG program or other) Black and white newspaper, dry leaves Water Vegetable scraps, fresh plant material Teaspoon of soil or contact with soil at bottom of bin Also useful for compost bin: Shovel or trowel for harvesting compost Container for harvesting compost 61 62 SLUG ADVISORY COMMITTEE During the summer of 2007, BNAN identified sites for the SLUG program and formulated plans for SLUG-based on-site resources and needs. Additionally, an Advisory Committee was formed to oversee the development of the program, gathering together a group of classroom teachers, teacher trainers, gardeners, greenhouse growers, and members of organizations already implementing vegetable gardening curriculum in schools. The advisory committee will review program goals, training materials, and curriculum and will assist in evaluation and growth of the program materials and sites. The SLUG Advisory Committee meets once a month. If you would like to serve on the Advisory Committee, please contact BNAN’s SLUG program 617-542-7696. SLUG Advisory Committee Members’ Organizations: BNAN Board Member Boston Nature Center Citizen Schools City Sprouts Dorchester Youth Academy EarthWorks Projects GroundWork, Somerville Guild Elementary School 63 SLUG Advisory Committee Members’ Organizations, con’t: Haynes EEC Madison Park Community Garden Museum of Science Neighborhood of Afforable Housing The Food Project Tufts University – Agriculture, Food & Environment Umana Middle School Urban Ecology Institute WormJava 64 GARDEN-RELATED ACTIVITIES for one day, one week, or suggested periods of time. It is not productive to “re-invent the wheel” when teachers and students can easily access the quality and quantity of existing garden-related curriculum. The BNAN SLUG training will select a limited number of materials from several of the resources listed below and other curriculum sources for short-term “garden-related activities” to be covered in the SLUG training session. The BNAN SLUG training will provide hands-on practice with selected garden-related activities, chosen to enhance the indoor, container, and outdoor gardening experiences. For ease of access to complete materials (many of these materials are available at the Boston Public Library), we have listed some useful curriculum and books below: Cultural Uses of Plants, Gabriell DeBear Paye (New York Botanical Garden Press) Digging Deeper, Joseph Kiefer & Martin Kemple, (Common Roots Press) Down to Earth, Susan and Patrick Harman (North Carolina A&T State University) French Fries and the Food System, Sara Coblyn (The Food Project) Garden Mosaics, Cornell University www.gardenmosaics.org Gardening with Children, M. Hannemann, et.al. (Brooklyn Botanical Garden) Grow Lab: Activities for Growing Minds, Eve Pranis & Joy Cohen ( National Gardening Association/ Junior Master Gardener, Texas Agricultural Extension Service, www.jmgkids.com Ladybugs & Lettuce Leaves, Project Inside/Outside Somerville Public Schools, (Center for Science in the Public Interest) Plants: Science Works for Kids Series, (Evan-Moor) The Chicago School Garden Initiative, Katherine Johnson & Marti Ross Bjornson, (Chicago Botanic Garden) Victory Garden Kids’ Book, Marjorie Waters, (Globe Pequot Press; Rev Sub edition April 1994) Worms Eat My Garbage, Mary Appelhof, (Flower Press) (Ms. Appelholf is known as the Worm Lady and she tells all about using worms for composting in this book.) 65 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES Books, documents, websites WE VALUE YOUR INPUT: If you have a favorite book, magazine, website that is not listed here or on page 63, please contact SLUG staff. The information you provide will be added to future additions of the SLUG handbook. Thank you! City Sprouts, Cambridge, MA http://citysprouts.org/ Greene, M.L. 1910. Among School Gardens. Russell Sage Foundation, New York. Miller, L.K. 1904. Children’s Gardens. D. Appleton and Company, New York. Waliczek, T.M. 1997. The effect of school gardens on self-esteem, on interpersonal relationships, attitude toward school, and environmental attitude in populations of children. PhD dissertation, Texas A&M University. J. Michael Murphy, Ed.D., Erwin Schweers, Ed.M. 2003 Evaluation of a Food Systemsbased Approach to Fostering Ecological Literacy. Final Report – Massachusetts General Hospital, Harvard Medical School 66 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES Some history of school gardens Gardening with children is not a new concept. Children have probably been gardening for food and survival for thousands of years. Yet, school gardens are about more than raising food, they are about using the garden to teach. The following timeline gives a brief history of school gardens. 1525 – Botanical garden planted at an Italian University for educational purposes. 16th Century – Quote by Comenius: “A school garden should be connected with every school where children can have opportunities for leisurely gazing upon trees, flowers and herbs and are taught to enjoy them.” 17th Century- School gardens spread throughout Europe. 1869 – Austrian mandate that all schools must have school gardens (followed by similar measures in Germany, Sweden, Belgium, France, Russia, and England). 1890 – First official U.S. school garden at George Putnam School in Roxbury, Massachusetts for wildflowers and vegetables. School gardening is linked with community garden efforts. A U.S. school garden pioneer was Mrs. Fannie G. Parsons, Director of the First Children’s School Farm in New York City. 1897 – Boy’s Garden established by the National Cash Register Company to instill good work ethic. Early 20th Century – Large U.S. cities incorporated school gardens including Philadelphia, Cleveland, and Washington D.C. Schools and gardens become associated as educational reformers and philosophers stress correlation between learning and personal, active experience. Experiential learning develops momentum; in 1910 approximately 80,000 school gardens maintained in U.S. 67 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES Boston-area school garden programs Contact information Boston Nature Center/MAS (school and day camp curriculum, mostly environmental education) Brian Lawlor: [email protected] City Sprouts (school garden curriculum) Jane Smillie: [email protected] EarthWorks Projects (edible fruit model and other schoolyard programming) Laura Doty: [email protected] Fish & Wildlife Service (classroom curriculum, mostly wildlife) Contact: Parker River National Wildlife Refuge in Newburyport, MA at 1-978-465-5753, and the Eastern Massachusetts National Wildlife Refuge Complex (Great Meadows), headquarters located in Sudbury, MA at 1-978-443-4661. Groundwork Somerville (school garden and nutrition curriculum) Amber Espar: [email protected] Mass Ag in the Classroom Debi Hogan: [email protected] Massachusetts Horticulture Society (Junior Master Gardener program) Trish Wesley Umbrell: [email protected] National Wildlife Federation (habitat schoolyards with curriculum) Liz Soper: [email protected] Schoolyard Funders Collaborative: (curriculum?) Kristin Metz: [email protected] Urban Ecology (environmental education programs and actions) Emily Hoffman: [email protected] 68 RESEARCH THAT SUPPORTS GARDENING’S POSITIVE ROLE IN EDUCATION One of the realities of working within the world of garden-based learning is that inevitably, you may be asked for “proof” of gardening’s role in enhancing education Fortunately, there is research that you can draw on to bolster up and advocate for your efforts. The following is a summary of research findings that you can share with teachers, administrators and parents and use in countless other ways to support the important work that you are carrying out. * Children’s garden consultant is a new model designed to give teen-aged youth the opportunity to actively research children’s garden design and educational programming, then present recommendations to an adult audience. Surveys, observations, and discussions with youth, adults in attendance, and program organizers indicated the approach was highly valuable and worth repeating. It provided a new learning opportunity for youth, and it also gave adults new perspectives on gardens. (Lekies, Kristi S., Marcia Eames-Sheavly, Kimberly J. Wong, and Anne Ceccarini. 2006. Children’s Garden Consultants: A New Model of Engaging Youth to Inform Garden Design and Programming. HortTechnology 16(1): 139-142.) * Gardening can be an ideal vehicle for introducing elements of multicultural education. Eames-Sheavly, M. 1994. Exploring horticulture in human culture: An interdisciplinary approach to youth education. HortTechnology 4(1). * A study on a youth gardening program in Detroit reports that after gardening, kids have an increased interest in eating fruit and vegetables, possess an appreciation for working with neighborhood adults, and have an increased interested for improvement of neighborhood appearance. In addition, they made new friends, and showed increased knowledge about nutrition, plant ecology, and gardening. (Pothukuchi, K. (2004). Hortiliza: A Youth “Nutrition Garden” in Southwest Detroit. Children, Youth and Environments. 14(2): 124-155.) * Elementary school and junior high school students gained more positive attitudes about environmental issues after participating in a school garden program (Waliczek, T.M., Zajicek, J.M. (1999). School Gardening: Improving Environmental Attitudes of Children Through Hands-On Learning. Journal of Environ. Hort. 17(4): 180-184.) 69 * “Gardens are often the most accessible places for children to learn about nature’s beauty, interconnections, power, fragility, and solace.” (Heffernan, M. (1994). The Children’s Garden Project at River Farm. Children’s Environments. 11(3): 221-231.) * Third, fourth, and fifth grade students that participated in school gardening activities scored significantly higher on science achievement tests compared to students that did not experience any garden-based learning activities. (Klemmer, C.D., Waliczek, T.M. & Zajicek, J.M. (2005). Growing Minds: The Effect of a School Gardening Program on the Science Achievement of Elementary Students. HortTechnology. 15(3): 448-452.) * Both passive and active interactions with plants during childhood are associated with positive adult values about trees. However the strongest influence came from active gardening, such as picking flowers or planting trees as a child. (Lohr, V.I. & Pearson-Mims, C.H. (2005). Children’s Active and Passive Interactions with Plants Influence Their Attitudes and Actions toward Trees and Gardening as Adults. HortTechnology. 15(3): 472-476.) * Students in a one-year school gardening program increased their overall life skills by 1.5 points compared to a group of students that did not participate in the school gardening program. The gardening program positively influenced two constructs: “working with groups” and “self-understanding.” (Robinson, C.W. & Zajicek, J.M. (2005). HortTechnology. 15(3): 453-457.) * Most successful school garden programs aim to involve children in the entire process of gardening (planning, design, and implementation). (Lucas, B. (1995). Learning through Landscapes: An Organization’s Attempt to Move School Grounds to the Top of the Educational Agenda. Children’s Environments. 12(2): 233-244.) * As early as 1909, Montessori had identified several benefits to children’s gardens: enhances moral education, increases appreciation for nature, increases responsibility, develops patience, and increases in relationship skills. (Montessori, M. (1964). The Montessori Method. Schocken.) 70 * Studies in Bexar County, Texas showed that school gardening increased self-esteem, helped students develop a sense of ownership and responsibility, helped foster relationships with family members, and increased parental involvement. (Alexander, J. & D. Hendren, (1998). Bexar County Master Gardener Classroom Garden Research Project: Final Report. San Antonio, Texas.) * Children use their own experiences, literary sources, music, and television as source of information in identifying characteristics of a garden. Whiren, Alice Phipps.. (1995). Planning a Garden from a Child’s Perspective. Children’s Environments, 12(2): 250-255. * In a project that involved integrating nutrition and gardening among children in grades one through four, the outcomes have gone well beyond an understanding of good nutrition and the origin of fresh food, to include enhancing the quality and meaningfulness of learning. Canaris, Irene. (1995). Growing Foods for Growing Minds: Integrating Gardening and Nutrition Education into the Total Curriculum. Children’s Environments, 12(2): 264-270. * Parent involvement of almost any kind can improve student achievement. (Henderson, A.T., C. Marburger, & T. Ooms. (1986). Beyond the Bake Sale –An Educator’s Guide To Working With Parents. National Committee for Citizens in Education, Columbia, Maryland.) * Parents who are highly involved at school are more likely to be involved in educational activities with their children at home. (National Center for Educational Statistics, (1997). Father’s Involvement in Their Children’s Schools. Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C.) * By linking storytelling with children’s garden programs, public gardens may serve to educate children about the processes that underlie and interweave diverse cultures’ seasonal traditions. Bowles, Beatrice. 1995. Celebrating Common Ground: Storytelling in Children’s Gardens. Children’s Environments, 12(2): 271-274. * Adults make assumptions about children, and because of that, planning and landscaping of children’s environments can run counter to children’s needs. Olwig, Kenneth R. 1990. Designs upon children’s special places? Children’s Environments, 7(4): 47-53. 71 * Participation with nature enhances mental health, reduces stress, and can produce physiological benefits such as lower blood pressure and reduced muscle tension. (Relf, D. (1988). People-Plant Relationship. In: S.P. Simson, M. C. Straus (eds.). Horticulture as Therapy. The Food Products Press, New York. Pp. 21-42.) * Children with learning disabilities had enhanced nonverbal communication skills, developed awareness of the advantages of order, learned how to participate in a cooperative effort, and formed relationships with adults. (Sarver, M. (1985).Agritherapy: Plants as Learning Partners. Academic Therapy, 20(4). 389-396.) * Horticulture is a profession deeply rooted in community involvement and activity-based learning, both of which are key elements to the development of children. McCormick reports that students tend to learn more and better when they are actively involved in the learning process. (McCormick, F., D. Cox, and G. Miller. (1989). Experiential Needs of Students in Agriculture Programs. The Agriculture Education Magazine. 62(4): 11-12,23.) * Gardening has been shown to increase scores on environmental attitude surveys of elementary school children. (Skelly, S. & J. Zajicek. (1998). The Effect of an Interdisciplinary Garden Program on the Environmental Attitudes of Elementary School Students. Hort Technology, 8(4): 579-583.) * Studies have shown that fifth, sixth, and seventh grade students developed better interpersonal relationship skills after participating in a garden program. (Waliczek, T. & J. Zajicek. (1998). The Effect of a School Garden Program on Self-Esteem and Interpersonal Relationships of Children and Adolescents. Hort Technology (submitted). * A study in Tucson, AZ showed that children who participated in the garden learned to like healthy foods. The vegetables that the children grew had a high intrinsic value. (Cavaliere, D. (1987). How Zucchini Won Fifth-Grade Hearts. Children Today, 16(3), 18-21.) * After gardening, children have shown more positive attitudes toward fruit and vegetable snacks and an improvement in vegetable preference scores. (Lineberger, S. (1999). The Effect of School Gardens on Children’s Attitudes and Related Behaviors Regarding Fruits and Vegetables. Thesis, Texas A&M University.) 72 SLUG VEGETABLE GARDEN GLOSSARY ACID SOIL A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil. (A soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline.) The amount of positively-charged Hydrogen in the soil is expressed as pH. Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. AERATE Loosening or puncturing the soil to increase water penetration. ALKALINE SOIL A soil with a pH higher than 7.0 is an alkaline soil. (A soil pH lower than 7.0 is acidic.) The amount of positively-charged Hydrogen in the soil is expressed as pH. Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil. ANNUALS Plants whose life cycle lasts only one year, from seed to blooms to seed. ARBORETUM A garden with a large collection of trees and shrubs cultivated for scientific or educational purposes. BEDDING Plants (mainly annuals), nursery grown and suitable for growing in PLANT beds. Quick, colorful flowers. BIENNIAL A plant that usually only lives two years, normally producing flowers and seed the second year. BOLTING Vegetables that quickly go to flower rather than producing the food crop. Usually caused by late planting and too warm temperatures. BONSAI The art of growing carefully trained, dwarf plants in containers. BOTANICAL The Latin or "scientific" name of a plant, usually composed of two NAME words, the genus and the species. BRACT Modified leaves growing just below a flower. Often confused with the flower itself. BROADCAST To sow seeds by scattering, opposed to planting each one individually in a narrow row. BUD Early stages of development of a flower or plant growth. BULB The thickened underground storage organ of the group of perennials that includes daffodils and tulips. CAMBIUM The thin membrane located just beneath the bark of a plant. CATKIN A slender, spike-like, drooping flower cluster. CELL PACK A plastic container in which seeds are started. CHLOROPHYLL The green pigment in leaves, that is vital to photosynthesis as it aids in absorption of light. COMMUNITY A cell pack with just one large cell, into which multiple seeds are PACK planted. 73 COMPLETE FERTILIZER COMPOST CONIFER CORM COTYLEDON COVER CROP CROWN CULTIVATE CUTTINGS DAMPING OFF DEADHEAD DIBBLE STICK DIVIDING DOUBLE FLOWER DRIP LINE A soil additive that contains all three of the primary elements plants need... nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. An organic soil amendment resulting from the decomposition of organic matter. A cone-bearing tree with tiny needlelike leaves. A thickened underground stem which produces roots, leaves, and flowers during the growing season. The first leaf-like structure on young seedlings. Often the initial source of food for the plant. A crop that is planted in the absence of the normal crop to control weeds and add humus to the soil when it is plowed in prior to regular planting. The point at which a plant's roots and top join (usually at soil level). Process of breaking up the soil surface, removing weeds, and preparing for planting. A method of propagation using sections of stems, roots, or leaves. A fungus, usually affecting seedlings, and causing the stem to rot off at soil level. Sterilized potting soil and careful sanitation practices usually prevent this. The process of pinching off used or spent blooms to keep the plants well groomed and to prevent them from setting seed. This will promote continued bloom. A pointed tool used to make holes in the soil for seeds, bulbs, or young plants. The process of splitting up plants, roots, and all that have began to get bound together. This will make several plants from one plant, and usually should be done to mature perennials every 3 to 4 years. A flower with many overlapping petals, which gives it a very full appearance. The circle that would exist if you drew a line below the tips of the outermost branches of a tree or plant. 74 EPIPHYTE A plant that grows on another plant but gets its nourishment from the air and rainfall. It does no damage to the host plant. EROSION The wearing away, washing away, or removal of soil by wind, water, or man. EVAPORATION Process by which water returns to the air. Higher temperatures speed the process of evaporation. EVERGREEN A plant that never loses all of its leaves at one time. EYE An undeveloped bud growth that will ultimately produce new growth. FERTILIZER Organic or inorganic plant foods that may be either liquid or granular, used to amend the soil in order to improve the quality or quantity of plant growth. FLAT A shallow box or tray used to start cuttings or seedlings. FROND The term used to describe the branch and leaf structure of a fern or members of the palm family. FROST The condensation and freezing of moisture in the air. Tender plants will suffer extensive damage or die when exposed to frost. GERMINATE The process of the sprouting of a seed. GIRDLING The choking of a branch by a wire or other material, most often in the stems of woody plants that have been tied too tightly to a stake or support. GROUND COVER A group of plants usually used to cover bare earth and create a uniform appearance. GROWING The number of days between the average date of the last killing SEASON frost in spring and the first killing frost in fall. Vegetables and certain plants require a minimum number of days to reach maturity, so be sure your growing season is long enough. HARDENING The process of gradually acclimatizing greenhouse or indoor grown OFF plants to outdoor growing conditions. HARDINESS The ability of a plant to withstand low temperatures or frost, without artificial protection. HARDPAN The impervious layer of soil or clay lying beneath the topsoil. 75 HEELING IN HERBACEOUS HONEYDEW HUMUS HYBRID Temporarily setting a plant into a shallow trench and covering the roots with soil to provide protection until it is ready to be permanently planted. Describes a plant with soft rather than woody tissues. The sticky secretion produced by sucking insects such as aphids. The brown or black organic part of the soil resulting from the partial decay of leaves and other matter. The offspring of two plants of different species or varieties. Hybrids are created when the pollen from one kind of plant is used to pollinate and entirely different variety, resulting in a new plant altogether. I J K LEACHING The removal or loss of excess salts or nutrients from soil. The soil around overfertilized plants can be leached clean by large quantities of fresh water used to 'wash' the soil. Areas of extremely high rainfall sometimes lose the nutrients from the soil by natural leaching. LEAF MOLD Partially decomposed leaf matter, used as a soil amendment. LOAM A rich soil composed of clay, sand, and organic matter. MANURE Hmmmm...... Organic matter, excreted by animals, which is used as a soil amendment and fertilizer. Green manures are plant cover crops that are tilled into the soil. MICROCLIMATE Variations of the climate within a given area, usually influenced by hills, hollows, structures, or proximity to bodies of water (i.e., when it's raining at your house, and the sun is shining on the other side of the street). MICRO Mineral elements that are needed by some plants in very small NUTRIENTS quantities. If the plants you are growing require specific 'trace elements' and they are not available in the soil, they must be added. 76 MULCH NATIVE PLANT NATURALIZE NODE ORGANIC GARDENING ORGANIC MATERIAL PARASITIC PLANT PEAT MOSS PERENNIAL PERLITE PEST pH PHOTOSYNTHESIS Any loose material placed over the soil to control weeds and conserve soil moisture. Usually this is a coarse organic matter, such as leaves, clippings, or bark, but plastic sheeting and other commercial products can also be used. Any plant that occurs and grows naturally in a specific region or locality. To plant randomly, without a pattern. The idea is to create the effect that the plants grew in that space without man's help, such as you would find wild flowers growing. The part of a stem from which a leaf or new branch starts to grow. The method of gardening utilizing only materials derived from living things (i.e., composts and manures). Any material that originated as a living organism (i.e., peat moss, compost, manure). A plant which lives on, and acquires its nutrients from another plant. This often results in declined vigor or death of the host plant. The partially decomposed remains of various mosses. This is a good, water retentive addition to the soil, but tends to increase the acidity of the soil pH. A plant that grows and lives for more than two years. Perennials usually produce one flower crop each year, lasting anywhere from a week to a month or longer. A mineral, which when expanded by a heating process forms light granules. Perlite is a good addition to container potting mixes, to promote moisture retention while allowing good drainage. Any insect or animal that is detrimental to the health and well being of plants or other animals. Basically, pH is a measure of the amount of charged Hydrogen in the soil, which is affected by the amount of lime contained in your soil. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil, a soil pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline soil. Soil pH can be tested with an inexpensive test kit. The formation of carbohydrates (to make and store energy) in plants from water and carbon dioxide, by the action of sunlight on the Chlorophyll within the leaves. 77 PINCHING BACK PISTIL POLLINATION POTTING SOIL PROPAGATION PRUNING Q RELATIVE HUMIDITY RHIZOME ROOT BALL ROOTBOUND RUNNER SCION SEED FLAT Utilizing the thumb and forefinger to nip back the very tip of a branch or stem. Pinching promotes branching, and a bushier, fuller plant. The seed-bearing organ of a flower, consisting of the ovary, stigma, and style. The transfer of pollen from the stamen (male part of the flower) to the pistil (female part of the flower), which results in the formation of a seed. A soil mixture designed for use in container gardens and potted plants. Potting mixes should be loose, light, and sterile. Various methods of starting new plants ranging from starting seeds to identical clones created by cuttings or layering. The cutting and trimming of plants to remove dead or injured wood, or to control and direct the new growth of a plant. The measurement of the amount of moisture in the atmosphere. A modified plant stem that grows horizontally, under the surface of the soil. New growth then emerges to form new stems from different points of the rhizome. Irises and some lawn grasses are rhizome plants. The network of roots along with the attached soil, of any given plant. A condition that exists when a potted plant has outgrown its container. The roots become entangled and matted together, and the growth of the plant becomes stunted. When repotting, loosen the roots on the outer edges of the root ball to induce them to once again grow outward. A slender stem growing out from the base of some plants, which terminates with a new offset plant. The new plant may be severed from the parent after it has developed sufficient roots. A short length of stem taken from one plant that is then grafted onto the rootstock of another plant. A plastic tray used for holding cell packs. 78 SINGLE FLOWER SIX-PACK SPHAGNUM SPORE STAKING SUCKER TAP ROOT TENDER PLANTS TENDRIL THATCH THINNING TOPIARY TOPSOIL A flower having only a minimum number of petals for that variety of plant. A cell pack made up of six individual cells. A bog moss which is collected and composted. Most peat moss is composed primarily of sphagnum moss. This moss is also packaged and sold in a fresh state and used for lining hanging baskets and air layering. The reproductive cell of ferns, fungi, and mosses (these plants do not produce seeds). The practice of driving a stake into the ground next to, and as a support for a plant. When attaching the plant to the stake, be sure that it is tied loosely so it doesn't strangle the stem. When staking a potted plant, the stake should be set into the planter before the plant is added. A growth originating from the rootstock of a grafted plant, rather than the desired part of the plant. Sucker growth should be removed, so it doesn't draw energy from the plant. The main, thick root growing straight down from a plant (not all plants have tap roots). Plants which are unable to endure frost or freezing temperatures. The twisting, clinging, slender growth on many vines, which allows the plants to attach themselves to a support or trellis. The layer of dead stems that builds up under many lawn grasses. Thatch should be removed periodically to promote better water and nutrient penetration into the soil. Removing excess seedlings to allow sufficient room for the remaining plants to grow. Thinning also refers to removing entire branches from a tree or shrub, to give the plant a more open structure. A method of pruning and training certain plants into formal shapes such as animals. The top layer of native (natural, not urban or developed) soil. This term may also apply to good quality soil sold at nurseries and garden centers. 79 TRANSPIRATION TRANSPLANTING TRUE LEAVES TUBER VARIEGATED VERMICULITE VERMICULTURE XYZ The release of moisture through the leaves of a plant. The process of digging up a plant and moving it to another location. Leaves that develop after the cotyledon. A flat underground stem which stores food and plant energy and from which a plant grows, (e.g., Dahlias). Leaves that are marked with multiple colors. The mineral 'mica,' which has been heated to the point of expansion. A good addition to container potting mixes, vermiculite retains moisture and air within the soil. Making compost with composting worms. 80 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES SLUG JOURNAL PROMPTS Maintaining garden journals can be a great way to help students document and reflect on changes in the garden and classroom plants. The following list of journal prompts are designed to promote observation and investigation throughout all stages of the plant cycle. If you would like additional information about making journals with your students as well as different examples of how you can integrate journals into your teaching, the National Gardening Association’s Kids Gardening website (kidsgardening.com) is an excellent resource. We value your input. If you have a suggestion for a prompt that worked well in your classroom, please contact SLUG staff. The information you provide will be added to future additions of the SLUG handbook. General Prompts • • • • • Write about a change you noticed in the garden, since the last time you were out. Describe something new you tried in the garden: a food, an assignment, or a conversation with someone you do not know well. Write a description of the garden from the point of view of the root, stem, leaf, or flower of a plant. What was challenging about your garden today, what part was easy? Describe the plants using as many of the five senses as possible. Plant Cycle Prompts Seed starting • What do you think the inside of a seed looks like? • Can you think of any seeds that we eat? • Are seeds alive? Why or why not? Germination • Describe the changes that you see in your seed. What new colors do you see? Describe the different textures that you see. First Leaves • Why do you think different plants have different shaped leaves? Transplanting • If you could be any plant, which plant would you be and why? 81 First buds • Describe what you think the inside of the bud looks like. Predict when you think the bud will open. Harvesting • Describe being picked from the point of view of a fruit or vegetable. Decomposing • What do you think happens to your household food scraps? Where do they go? Vermiculture • What shape is a worm? Describe the shape. Science-related Prompts Seed Starting • Are seeds alive? Why or why not? • What does a seed need to sprout? • How does a seed know how to start growing? Germination • Why do plants bend towards light? • What are some reasons you think some seeds sprouted faster than others? • Write a comparison of outdoor soil to indoor potting soil, i.e., how does it look, feel, etc. First Leaves • What is the role of the leaves? • Why are the second set of leaves different from the first? • What happens when you deprive a plant of light? • Discuss how plants evolved survival techniques through different shapes and functions of leaves. • Discuss which insects benefit plants and which insects are unwanted in a garden. Transplanting • Why do we transplant? • What part of the plant benefits most from transplanting? • What do the roots do? • Describe how excessive nutrients affect plant growth • Learn about soil macronutrients and micronutrients 82 First Buds/Flowers • What do buds become? • What is the role of the flower? • In outdoor gardens, can you think of any animals that like flowers? Why? Harvesting • Is it beneficial to the plant to have parts that people and animals want to eat? Why do plants have edible parts? • How do some plants let you know when it’s time to harvest? Decomposition • What is decomposition? • Why does it take longer for some things to decompose than others? • Why do you put compost on your garden? • Compare the life cycles and life spans of plants • Compare the life cycles of humans to life cycles of a variety of plants, i.e., trees, annual vegetables, perennial ornamentals Vermiculture • Worms don’t have eyes like ours. How do you think they “see”/perceive the world? • Which of the five senses do you think is most important to them? • Why can’t worms have greasy foods? • What other foods can’t worms eat and why? Math-related Prompts Seed Starting • Keep track of the number of seeds planted and the number that germinate. Use this information to calculate the percentage/fraction of plants germinated. • Count the number of available cells/inserts/trays, and calculate how many seeds the class will be able to plant. Germination • Measure plants as they grow for X amount of time. Make a graph of their growth. • Make a record of which plants germinate first, and put the information in a table. • Count the number of sprouted seeds. What is the germination rate of each cell? Of all the cells total? • Graph propagation rates and percents. 83 First Leaves • Make predictions about which plants will grow leaves first. Calculate the number of people who guessed correctly, the number who were off by one day, and the number who were off by more than one day. What fraction of the class guessed the correct day? What fraction were off by one day. What fraction were off by more than one day. Transplanting • Think about the size of the cell that you planted the seeds in, and the size of the pot. How much more space does the pot hold than the cell? First Buds • Track how long it takes the buds on a selection of plants to open. Create a graph to represent these different amounts of time. Harvesting • Weigh, measure and record produce. • Which plants had the heaviest produce? The biggest? The most per plant? Decomposition • How long does it take plants to grow vs. decompose in vermicompost? Vermiculture • How many worms started out in the classroom? • Did the amount of food you could put in the bin change over time? Why? • Weigh the amount of food that you put into the bin, and then weigh the compost that you get out. Are the numbers alike? Language Arts-related Prompts Seed Starting • If you could be any plant in the world, what plant would you be, and why? • Write about the ways plants protect their seeds. Germination • Describe something new you tried while working in the garden or with the plants indoors: a food, a job, or a conversation with someone you do not know well. First Leaves • Describe how you feel when you stand in the sun? How does it feel when you stand in the dark? Which one is more comfortable for you? • Students sketch shape of leave they’d like to be and write a paragraph describing the advantage of being this shape. 84 Transplanting • If you were a plant, would you enjoy being transplanted? Why or why not? • Imagine what a drop of water thinks when it’s watering a plant. • Write a description of standing in the sunshine or standing in the dark, i.e., which one is more comfortable and why. • Discuss and write about what makes a plant healthy and what makes a plant unhealthy. First Buds • Write a description of the garden from the point of view of the root, stem, leaf, or flower of a plant. Harvesting • Describe being harvested from the point of view of a fruit or vegetable. • Write or tell stories depicting how early humans might have discovered plant dyes. Decomposition • If you could be any kind of animal or insect that helps in decomposition, which would you be and why? • How would you persuade someone in your family that it's important to compost? • What is the difference between a dead and a live seed? Vermiculture • Describe a day in the worm bin from the point of view of a worm or of a vegetable scrap. Art-related Prompts Seed Starting • Create seed packets for saving seeds or for unused seeds. (See seed packet template) • Design and decorate plant markers with student’s names • Sketch a garden with vegetables that the student’s family eats Germination • Create colorful plant markers using popsicle sticks. 85 First Leaves • Remove a small number of different leaves from plants found outdoors and do leaf rubbings. What do the leaf rubbings show about how the leaves differ from each other? • Students sketch shape of leave they’d like to be and write a paragraph describing the advantage of being this shape. Transplanting • Sketch a drawing of a healthy plant and an unhealthy plant. What are the differences between the two plants? First Buds • Make new home-made paper from old paper. Incorporate dried leaves, flowers or other plant parts into the paper. (For instructions, see http://www.kidsgardening.com/growingideas/projects/nov02/pg1.html#paper ) • Sketch each stage of a lady beetle or butterfly’s life cycle Harvesting • Make block prints with different shaped vegetables or fruits. Potatoes and mushrooms work especially well. Decomposition • Create a sculpture from recycled materials (bottle caps, paper towel rolls, egg cartons etc.). How do recycling and composting differ as ways to get rid of waste? Vermiculture • Design and draw a worm palace. What features of this new worm home are especially appealing to the worms? History and Culture-related Prompts Seed Starting • Acorns are easy to find in Boston. How do you think acorns were used by native Americans in this area? • What do you think it means for a plant to be “native” to a particular place? Can you think of an example of a native plant? 86 Germination • How can finding old, preserved seeds help us understand the history of a people? • How does knowing a plant's origins help us determine the degree of protection it needs from weather extremes? First Leaves • What does it mean for a plant to be endangered? Why are some plants “endangered”? Transplanting • Invent a tool for transplanting using only natural materials that you can find outside. • Describe ways different cultures use or waste water. • Describe the difference between how people and plants receive the nutrients they need. First Buds • List two ways that people use plants other than eating them. Describe if there any people you know who use plants in this way. Harvesting • What foods are part of your family’s history and tradition? Why are they important to your family? • Which foods that originated in other cultures have become popular staples or "novelty foods" here (e.g., tortilla chips and salsa, pizza)? When and how did they move into the mainstream in the U.S.? • Where do the student’s families grow and/or purchase vegetables? • Discuss and write about the cultural origins of food. Decomposition • Your family’s trash gets picked up every week by a garbage truck. How do you think families got rid of their garbage before garbage trucks? Vermiculture • How was a particular plant food historically processed or preserved? How is this accomplished today? 87 88 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES Quick Reference Guide to Indoor Growing SLUG will provide seeds for some of the following plants. Track their individual life cycles on the calendar. Vegetable Variety Date Seeds Planted # Cells Planted Date Transplanted Esimated. Days to Germ. Actual Date of Germ. 5-10 Basil Beet Broccoli Chard Chinese Cabbage Chinese Kale Chives Hot Pepper Kohlrabi Hot Pepper Leeks Lettuce Microgreens Nasturtium Parsley Radish Red Stem Radish Spinach Mustard Greens Turnips Color Codes: Size Container 3-10 2-10 10-15 8-14 Estimated Days to Harvest * 50-60 55-70 50-60 65-75 2-10 50-60 * 80-85 60+ 70 9 mo. 65 25 42 70-75 30-40 10 10-15 2-10 40-45 40+ 10-25 14-21 2-12 5-10 10 14 Actual Harvest 50-60 *These herbs can be harvested on an as-needed basis. Long Lifespan Intermediate Lifespan 89 Short Lifespan 90 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts The suggested activities and calendar prompts provide an approximate timeline for teachers and students to know when planting and related tasks need to be completed. Due to the unpredictable nature of plant’s growth rates, it is difficult to predict to the day when the garden will need attention. The dates in this table are left open for this reason. PRIOR TO PLANTING (date ___________________) 9 See pages 24, 25 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Setting Up 9 Planning Ahead 9 Preparing Space Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 What’s a Garden? 9 Making Dibbles 9 Garden Puzzle 9 Design and decorate plant markers with student’s names 9 Sketch a garden growing vegetables that the student’s family eats 9 Discuss what foods student’s family eats and where in the world each of those foods originated 9 Discuss where student’s family grows and/or purchases vegetables 91 Notes 9 Coordinate delivery of materials with SLUG staff RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 1 (date ___________________) Planting Instructions 9 Planting Seeds 9 See pages 26 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar 9 9 9 9 9 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Journey to the Center of a Seed Diverseedy Yo Seeds, Wake Up! Make Room for Raddy Soil sort Water and fungus (damping off) 9 What is the difference between a dead and alive seed? 9 Students write about ways plants protect their seeds 9 Count the number of sprouted seeds. What is the germination rate of each cell? Of each tray? 9 Imagine what a drop of water thinks when it’s watering a plant 92 Notes 9 Plant chosen seeds 9 “Broadcast” in each cell 9 2-4 seeds per cell (for most seeds depending on size; ensures at least one successfully sprouted plant per cell) 9 5-6 seeds per cell (chives, micro greens, red stem radish can grow densely) 9 Follow directions on back of seed packets RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 1, con’t (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Suggested Activities and Planting Instructions Journal Prompts 9 Check for proper moisture 9 Growing Plants with 9 Check for proper light Compost 9 Check regularly to 9 Soil Sort confirm seed sprouting 9 Lettuce Be Different 9 Look out for Leaves 9 Turning Over a New Leaf Notes 9 Check for sprouting 3-5 days after planting (Chinese Cabbage, micro greens, Mustard Greens, Red Stem Radish) 9 Check for sprouting 4-6 days after planting (Basil, Chinese Kale, Chives, 9 Write comparison of outdoor Lettuce, Spinach) soil to indoor potting soil, 9 5-7 days after planting i.e., how does it look, feel, (Nasturtium) etc. 9 6-8 days after planting (Hot 9 Graph propagation rates & peppers) percents 9 Discuss how plants evolved 9 Check moisture daily when covers are removed survival techniques through 9 Adjust light source - lights different shapes and should be 2” – 4” above functions of leaves tops of seedlings 9 Students sketch shape of leaf they’d like to be and write a paragraph describing the advantage of being this shape 9 Write description of standing in the sunshine or standing in the dark, i.e., which one is more comfortable and why 93 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 2 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Check for proper moisture 9 9 Check for proper light 9 Check regularly to 9 confirm seed sprouting 9 9 9 9 9 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Growing Plants with Compost Plant Cycles Magic Beans and Giant Plants Lighten Up Nutrient Variable Enough is Enough Just Chew It Celebrating Salad 9 Compare the life cycles and life spans of plants 9 Compare the life cycles of humans to life cycles of a variety of plants, i.e., trees, annual vegetables, perennial ornamentals 94 Notes 9 Check for sprouting 8-21 days after planting (Parsley) 9 Contact SLUG staff if seeds not sprouted (Basil, Chinese Cabbage, Chinese Kale, Lettuce, micro greens, Red Stem Radish, Mustard Greens) 9 Nasturtium germination period nears end 9 Check moisture daily when tray covers are removed 9 Adjust light source 2” – 4” above tops of seedlings 9 Contact SLUG staff if seeds not sprouted (Chinese Kale, Lettuce, Parsley) 9 Hot Peppers germination period nears end 9 Set up water wicking system for any prolonged periods away (school vacation, etc.) RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 2 con’t (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 95 Suggested Activities and Notes Journal Prompts Sketch each stage of a lady 9 Transplant Brassica family (Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale, beetle or butterfly’s life cycle Kohlrabi, Mustard Greens) Discuss which insects 9 Select one short, straight, benefit plants and which healthy seedling to insects are unwanted in a transplant from each cell garden 9 Snip or pinch off other Write description of plants in each cell; standing in the sunshine or transplanting the remaining standing in the dark, i.e., one only which one is more comfortable and why Compare the life cycles of humans to life cycles of trees, annual vegetables, perennial ornamentals Describe how excessive nutrients affect plant growth Describe ways different cultures use or waste water Describe difference between how people and plants receive the nutrients they need RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 2 con’t (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) 9 9 9 9 96 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Learn soil macronutrients and micronutrients Sketch picture of healthy plant and picture of unhealthy plant Discuss and write about what makes a plant healthy and what make a plant unhealthy Discuss and write about cultural origins of food Notes 9 Fertilize timing and amount as instructed by SLUG staff 9 Harvest in 6-8 days (Snip 1”-2” tall Microgreens off at base of stem; Microgreens as sprouts or after true leaves; snip 3”-4” tall Red Stem Radish off at base of stem) 9 Re-sow cells, if desired RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 3 or 4 (date ___________________) 9 See pages26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Notes 9 Check for sprouting, re-sow and harvest (micro greens, red stem radish) 9 Chives, leeks, peppers, spinach germination period nears end 9 Contact SLUG staff if seeds not sprouted 9 Check moisture 9 Adjust light source as needed; lights should be 2” – 4” above tops of seedlings 9 Final transplant for most vegetables 9 Fertilize timing and amount as instructed by SLUG staff 9 Set up water wicking system for any prolonged periods away (school vacation, etc.) 9 Harvest nasturtium – (pluck blossoms or leaves; add to salad or sandwiches) 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) 97 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 5 thru 8 (date ___________________) 9 See pages26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Notes 9 Check for sprouting, re-sow and harvest (micro greens, red stem radish) 9 Chives, leeks, peppers, spinach germination period nears end 9 Contact SLUG staff if seeds not sprouted 9 Check moisture 9 Adjust light source as needed; lights should be 2” – 4” above tops of seedlings 9 Final transplant for most vegetables 9 Fertilize timing and amount as instructed by SLUG staff 9 Set up water wicking system for any prolonged periods away (school vacation, etc.) 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) 98 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 5 thru 8 cont’t (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 99 Notes 9 Harvest nasturtium – (pluck blossoms or leaves; add to salad or sandwiches) 9 Harvest spinach, mustard greens (method one – cut entire plant at base; reseed; method two – cut individual mature leaves at base) 9 Harvest chard, Chinese kale (method one – cut entire plant at base; re-seed; method two – cut individual mature leaves at base) 9 Harvest beets, turnips (pull whole plant up by leaves; greens and root are edible; re-seed) 9 Harvest broccoli (cut head off 6” – 8” down stalk; plant may produce “side florets”) 9 Chinese cabbage (method one – cut entire plant at base; re-seed; method two – cut individual mature leaves at base) RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 9-thru 12 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Notes 9 Lettuce (harvest entire cluster of leaves; re-seed) 9 Harvest broccoli (cut head off 6” – 8” down stalk; plant may produce “side florets”) 9 Chinese cabbage (method one – cut entire plant at base; re-seed; method two – cut individual mature leaves at base) 9 Parsley (trim and use as desired) 9 Hot peppers (harvest when mature; color and flavor will change the longer they stay on plant; HANDLE WITH CARE! Hot peppers can be an irritant to skin and mucous membranes) 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) 100 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 2: January, February, March Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts The suggested activities and calendar prompts provide an approximate timeline for teachers and students to know when planting and related tasks need to be completed. Due to the unpredictable nature of plant’s growth rates, it is difficult to predict to the day when the garden will need attention. The dates in this table are left open for this reason. Planting Instructions WEEK 1 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 24, 25, 26 in handbook for directions 9 Setting Up 9 Preparing Space 9 Planting Seeds Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Making Dibbles 9 Plant Cycles Notes 9 9 General Prompts 9 Seed Starting 9 Germination 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 2 (date ___________________) Planting Instructions 9 See pages 26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 9 9 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Check for proper moisture 9 Garden Puzzle Check for proper light 9 Yo Seeds, Wake Up! Check regularly to 9 Germination confirm seed sprouting 9 First Leaves Harvest red stem radish sprouts 101 Notes RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 2: January, February, March Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 3 or 4 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27, 29, 33 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 5 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27 in handbook for directions 9 After the first plants have been transplanted, consider additional succession planting. If your class will be doing outdoor planting in module 3, you could get ahead by starting plants indoors. See “succession planting” in the handbook. 9 Planting Instructions Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Nutrient Variable 9 Enough is Enough 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) 9 Transplant seedlings 9 Harvest radishes (week 4) Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) 9 9 9 9 Transplanting Harvesting Decomposition Vermiculture Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Decomposing prompts 9 Vermiculture 9 Seed Starting 9 Germination 9 Transplanting 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar 102 Notes 9 Radishes may be ready to harvest; check for optimal size 9 Harvest micro greens once they are 1” – 2” tall Notes 9 Feed worm bin or outdoor composter excess plant materials left over from transplanting! RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 2: January, February, March Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 6 (date ___________________) Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly 9 Week 5 or 6 would be ideal maintenance tasks for starting seeds indoors to (moisture, light, transplant to the outdoor sprouting) garden. Use the “when to plant, how to plant” chart on 9 Harvest nasturtium and page 45 to select cold hardy mustard greens vegetables. 9 9 9 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts First Buds and Flowers Transplanting Harvest Decomposition 9 Seed Starting 9 Germination Notes 9 Harvest nasturtium flowers as they blossom; leaves are also edible 9 Mustard greens can be harvested as individual leaves or the entire plant can be cut off at the base 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 7 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27, 29, 33 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Looking for Living and Nonliving Things 103 Notes RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 2: January, February, March Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 8 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27, 29, 33 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 9 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27, 29, 33 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Just Chew It Notes 9 Check beets, broccoli, chard, and turnips for harvest readiness 9 Feed worm bin or outdoor composter excess plant materials left over from transplanting! Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 What Am I? 9 Harvest Kohlrabi and lettuce 104 Notes RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 2: January, February, March Indoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 10 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27, 29, 33 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 11 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27, 29, 33 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 12 (date ___________________) 9 See pages 26, 27, 29, 33 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) Notes 9 Be VERY careful when harvesting hot peppers – they contain oils that will irritate mucous membranes 9 Harvest hot peppers and parsley Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Garden Puzzle Notes 9 Harden off seedlings for planting outside 9 General prompts 9 Harvest hot peppers Planting Instructions 9 Perform weekly maintenance tasks (moisture, light, sprouting) Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 The Great Seed Rescue 9 Decomposing prompts 105 Notes 9 Plants still producing can be used in Module 3; pull and compost others 106 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES Quick Reference Guide to Outdoor Growing SLUG will provide seeds and/or transplants for some of the following plants. Track their individual life cycles on the calendar. Vegetable Variety Date Seeds Planted # Rows Planted Date Transplanted Beets Broccoli Carrots Chard Chinese Cabbage Chinese Kale Kohlrabi Leeks Lettuce Mustard Greens Radish Spinach Turnips Size/Area Planted Estimated Days to Germ. Actual Date of Germ. Est. Days to Harvest 6-42 5-34 6-50 6-30 55-90 60-100 60-90 6-15 85-95 28-42 4-49 70-80 75-80 9 mo. 65 16-31 40-65 6-29 7-63 30 60-65 50-60 Actual Harvest MONITORING THE WEATHER FORECAST Check the thermometer inside the row cover regularly and keep a detailed record (high and low temperatures each week, minimum). This will make it possible for you determine your garden’s “microclimate”. According to UMass Extension Service, there is a 50% chance the first frost will occur on or before October 5 in the Boston area (though Boston has several average hardiness zones, or microclimates). There is a 90% chance frost will occur before October 16 in the Boston area. Find a reliable weather forecaster (radio, TV, online) and check daily for the forecast. If a “frost advisory” is issued or temperatures drop below 40 F degrees, ensure the planting bed is protected with the row cover. 107 OUTDOOR GERMINATION RATES Vegetable gardens are generally planted in the spring, with plants living out their life cycles during the summer season. Because the SLUG outdoor gardens will be planted in the fall and then live during the cooler winter months, the plants will behave differently. Temperature will have significant impact on the growth rate and morphology of a plant. For example, radishes will germinate after about 6 days at a temperature of 59°, where it will take 29 days for the same plant to germinate at 41°F. Beets will take about 42 days at a temperature of 41°F, and 16 days at 59°F. Germination Times According to Temperature of a Few SLUG Crops: Crop 32°F 41°F 50°F 68°F Beets Not tested 42.0 days 16.7 days 6.2 days Cabbage Not tested Not tested 14.6 days 5.8 days Carrots 0.0 50.6 days 10.1 days 6.9 days Lettuce 49.0 days 14.9 days 7.0 days 2.6 days Radishes 0.0 29.0 days 11.2 days 4.2 days Spinach 62.6 days 22.5 days 11.7 days 5.7 days Bartholomew, Mel. Plant A Fall Garden Now! Square Foot Gardening www.squarefootgardening.com/html/body_fall_garden.html Seeds planted outside could germinate as much as three weeks later than seeds started indoors, depending on the temperature difference. Be patient! If temperatures are unseasonably warm (65-70°F), plants may begin to germinate by the end of the week. If it is colder, don’t expect any germination until the end of the second week. Place a thermometer inside the row cover and keep a detailed temperature record—take temperature readings at several points during the day (i.e., upon arrival at school, midday, and in the afternoon). This will help you estimate when seedlings will germinate. 108 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Outdoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts PRIOR TO PLANTING (date ___________________) 9 See page 24,25, 26 in handbook for directions Planting Instructions 9 Setting Up 9 Preparing a Space 9 Planting Seeds Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Looking for Living and Non-Living Things Notes 9 9 9 9 Remove weed plants Warm the soil Install row cover supports Apply mulch/thermal barrier 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 1 and 2 (date ___________________) 9 See page 24,25, 26, 29, 30 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Planting Seeds and Transplants 9 Install row covers after planting seeds and transplants when temperature is 40 F degrees or lower 9 Remove row covers on sunny days with temperatures above 40 F degrees Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Water in the Garden 9 Shake Rattle and Roll 9 Garden Weather Station 109 Notes 9 Water soil thoroughly; when plastic covers are applied little water can get into the planting bed. 9 If temperature under row cover is 60F – 75F degrees check for sprouting after seven days RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 1: October, November, December Outdoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 3 and 4 (date ___________________) 9 See page 28, 33, 34 in handbook for directions Planting Instructions 9 9 9 9 Check for Sprouting Thinning Harvest Succession Planting 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 5 thru 8 (date ___________________) 9 See page 28, 33, 34 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 9 thru 12 (date ___________________) 9 See page 28, 33, 34 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar 9 9 9 9 9 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Seed Starting Germination Transplanting Harvesting Decomposition Vermiculture 9 9 9 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts Transplanting Harvesting Decomposition Vermiculture Planting Instructions 9 Harvest 9 Succession Planting (winter dormancy planting) 9 Winter Protection Planting Instructions 9 Harvest 9 Succession Planting (winter dormancy planting) 9 Winter Protection Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Harvesting 9 Decomposition 9 Vermiculture 110 Notes 9 Notes 9 Notes 9 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 2: January, February, March Outdoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts Unfortunately, there is limited work that can be done in an outdoor garden during the months of January, February and March! Your garden will begin to wake up when the sun angle more actively penetrates the protective cover, and there is some preparation that can be done before the season more actively awakens around March, depending on the weather. WEEK 1 thru 4 (date ___________________) 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 5 thru 8 (date ___________________) 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 If the soil is prepared (and warmed by using black plastic), you’re feeling bold, and the weather is unseasonably warm, try planting a few kale or spinach seeds under cover. Notes 9 9 9 9 9 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts General Prompts Seed Starting Germination First Leaves First Buds Vermiculture Notes 9 9 9 9 9 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts General Prompts Seed Starting Germination First Leaves First Buds Vermiculture Planting Instructions 9 If the soil is prepared (and warmed by using black plastic), you’re feeling bold, and the weather is unseasonably warm, try planting a few kale or spinach seeds under cover. 9 111 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 2: January, February, March Outdoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 9 (date ___________________) 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 If the soil is prepared (and warmed by using black plastic), you’re feeling bold, and the weather is unseasonably warm, try planting a few kale or spinach seeds under cover. WEEK 10 (date ___________________) 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar Planting Instructions 9 Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts General Prompts Seed Starting Germination First Leaves First Buds Vermiculture Notes Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 Making Weather Tracking Tools Notes 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 General Prompts 112 RESOURCES AND REFERENCES MODULE 2: January, February, March Outdoor Vegetable Garden planting instructions Suggested Activities (see supplemental) and Garden Journal Prompts WEEK 11 (date ___________________) 9 See page 33 in handbook for directions 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar WEEK 12 (date ___________________) 9 See page 30 in handbook for directions Planting Instructions Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 If the weather is mild, 9 Squirrels and Jays begin hardening off plants (weather permitting) 9 On a warm day clean up the garden by removing litter and any remaining last year’s dead plant material. Planting Instructions Suggested Activities and Journal Prompts 9 If you were not able to start hardening off plants last week, please do so this week. 9 As you complete a step, record it on your calendar 113 Notes Notes 114 KEY STEPS FOR SUSTAINED SUCCESS-SLUG calendar BOSTON PUBLIC SCHOOLS 2007-2008 school calendar A vegetable garden requires active engagement. The vegetable garden needs to be checked daily before seeds sprout, daily after seeds sprout, weekly after seedlings are transplanted to containers or outdoors. The vegetable garden will not take care of itself. Seeds need to be kept properly moist (if they dry out they die) and at the proper temperature. Seedlings need proper moisture, temperature, and light. Soil needs proper fertility. Weeds need to be removed. Pests need to be managed. Urban growing tips like vertical planting and close spacing need to be practiced. Record every step on the SLUG CALENDAR Use the Boston Public School calendar to properly time seed plantings, arrange vacation watering systems, plan for summer maintenance, and the like. Even if each student will keep a Garden Journal, be sure to record key steps on the SLUG CALENDAR. The list and prompts on the back of each month will guide you to record key steps. This will help you track your progress and help BNAN establish data for the SLUG program. 115 116 117 118 JANUARY NOTES: 1. Location of vegetable garden (circle all that apply): Indoors (grow lights) Outdoors 2. Name of each vegetable, herb, and flower planted _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ NOTE ON CALENDAR: 3. Date(s) of seed planting 4. Date(s) of transplanting 5. Watering 6. Fertilization (note kind of and amount of fertilization) 7. Light adjustment 8. Vertical staking 9. Weeding & Pest Management 10. Cultivating 11. Mulching 12. Cold temperature protection 13. Harvest NOTES, QUESTIONS, SKETCHES: 119 120 FEBRUARY NOTES: 1. Location of vegetable garden (circle all that apply): Indoors (grow lights) Outdoors 2. Name of each vegetable, herb, and flower planted _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ NOTE ON CALENDAR: 3. Date(s) of seed planting 4. Date(s) of transplanting 5. Watering 6. Fertilization (note kind of and amount of fertilization) 7. Light adjustment 8. Vertical staking 9. Weeding & Pest Management 10. Cultivating 11. Mulching 12. Cold temperature protection 13. Harvest NOTES, QUESTIONS, SKETCHES: 121 122 MARCH NOTES: 1. Location of vegetable garden (circle all that apply): Indoors (grow lights) Outdoors 2. Name of each vegetable, herb, and flower planted _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ NOTE ON CALENDAR: 3. Date(s) of seed planting 4. Date(s) of transplanting 5. Watering 6. Fertilization (note kind of and amount of fertilization) 7. Light adjustment 8. Vertical staking 9. Weeding & Pest Management 10. Cultivating 11. Mulching 12. Cold temperature protection 13. Harvest NOTES, QUESTIONS, SKETCHES: 123 124 APRIL NOTES: 1. Location of vegetable garden (circle all that apply): Indoors (grow lights) Outdoors 2. Name of each vegetable, herb, and flower planted _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ NOTE ON CALENDAR: 3. Date(s) of seed planting 4. Date(s) of transplanting 5. Watering 6. Fertilization (note kind of and amount of fertilization) 7. Light adjustment 8. Vertical staking 9. Weeding & Pest Management 10. Cultivating 11. Mulching 12. Cold temperature protection 13. Harvest NOTES, QUESTIONS, SKETCHES: 125 126 MAY NOTES: 1. Location of vegetable garden (circle all that apply): Indoors (grow lights) Outdoors 2. Name of each vegetable, herb, and flower planted _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ NOTE ON CALENDAR: 3. Date(s) of seed planting 4. Date(s) of transplanting 5. Watering 6. Fertilization (note kind of and amount of fertilization) 7. Light adjustment 8. Vertical staking 9. Weeding & Pest Management 10. Cultivating 11. Mulching 12. Cold temperature protection 13. Harvest NOTES, QUESTIONS, SKETCHES: 127 128 JUNE NOTES: 1. Location of vegetable garden (circle all that apply): Indoors (grow lights) Outdoors 2. Name of each vegetable, herb, and flower planted _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ _____________________ NOTE ON CALENDAR: 3. Date(s) of seed planting 4. Date(s) of transplanting 5. Watering 6. Fertilization (note kind of and amount of fertilization) 7. Light adjustment 8. Vertical staking 9. Weeding & Pest Management 10. Cultivating 11. Mulching 12. Cold temperature protection 13. Harvest NOTES, QUESTIONS, SKETCHES: 129 130
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