Womenswear How To Measure Contents User Guide

Womenswear How To Measure
Contents
User Guide
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Dresses, Tops & Shirts
Strappy Dresses & Tops
Collars
Jackets & Coats
Trousers & Shorts
Skirts & Slips
Waistband Variations
Swimwear
Under Wired Bikini Tops
Knitwear
Nightdresses & Tops
Dressing Gowns
Briefs
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All numeric ‘How to Measure’ numbering
must be referenced on any size chart or
fit log submitted to Marks & Spencer Plc
Confidential
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Womenswear How To Measure
Dresses, Tops & Shirts
4
1
2
8
16
10
21
27
22
11
23
12
17
32
18
13
28
14
30
9
24
3
15
5
29
20
20a
1
Shoulder – neck point along shoulder
to armhole point including any neck
trim
17
Sleeve Overarm – neck point along
shoulder to sleeve end including cuff &
any neck trim.
2
Shoulder Point to Point – Back shoulder
to shoulder point
18
Sleeve Underarm – underarm point to
sleeve end.
3
Neck Drop – centre back neck edge to
centre front neck including any neck
trim
20
Armhole Circumference -along curve.
4
Neck Point to Point –Back neck point
to neck point.
21
Bicep – underarm point to folded edge.
5
Front Neck Line – along curve from
neck point to neck point.
22
Elbow at specified measurement from
underarm
8
Across Front – Measure straight across
from armhole seam to seam,13cm
down from side front neck point
23
Cuff Circumference – Along bottom edge
of sleeve.
9
Front Length – Side neck point to hem.
24
Back Neck Line - along curve from neck
point to neck point.
10 Bust - Measure straight across from side
seam to seam .Specify bust measuring
position from side neck point on all
sizes
27
Across Back – Measure straight across
from armhole seam to seam,13cm down
from side back neck point
11 Waist- Measure straight across from
side seam to seam. Waist measuring
position to be specified on chart all
sizes from centre back
28
Back Length – centre back neck to hem
inclusive of any neck trim
12 Top Hip –Measure straight across from
side seam to seam. Top hip measuring
position to be specified on chart all
sizes from centre back
29
Vent / Split Length – top of opening to
hem.
13 Mid Hip -Measure straight across from
side seam to seam. Mid hip measuring
position to be specified on chart all
sizes from centre back
30
Side Seam – underarm point to hem.
14 Lower Hip-Measure straight across from
side seam to seam. Lower hip
measuring position to be specified on
chart all sizes from centre back
31
Neck Circumference – along curve of
back and front neck.
(See fig. 5&24)
15 Hem Circumference – along bottom
edge of garment – closed/fastened.
32
Dart Length – Measured from dart end as
sewn.
16 Sleeve Length – sleeve head to hem
Confidential
20a Armhole - Straight
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Womenswear How To Measure
Strappy Dresses & Tops
25a
6
7
5
Front Neck Apex to Apex –
Follow neckline
15
Hem Circumference – along
bottom edge of garment closed /
fastened.
6
Centre Front neck to apex –
Follow neckline
25
Strap Distance – Along curve,
inner strap to inner strap edge.
Distance between straps –
measured straight
27
25
25a
5
11
32
7
Apex to Side Seam – Follow
armhole
26
Strap Length – From front apex
along strap to back
9
Front Length – Front neck point to
hem inclusive of neck trim.
27
Across Back – Along edge from
side seam to side seam.
10
Bust – Fold garment in half side
seam to side seam (see picture)
and measure from centre front to
centre back through fullest part of
bust.
28
Back Length –Centre back top
edge to hem including any neck
trims
11
Waist- Measure straight across
from side seam to seam. Waist
measuring position to be specified
on chart all sizes from centre
back
29
Vent / Split Length – top of
opening to hem.
13
Mid Hip -Measure straight across
from side seam to seam. Mid hip
measuring position to be specified
on chart all sizes from centre
back
30
Side Seam – underarm point to
hem inclusive of any binding
14
Lower Hip-Measure straight
across from side seam to seam.
Lower hip measuring position to
be specified on chart all sizes
from centre back
32
Dart Length – Measured from
dart end as sewn.
13
30
14
26
28
9
7
10
29
15
Confidential
Womenswear How To Measure
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Collars
A
Extend end length
B
Band width at front
C
Extend end depth
D
Collar length at base
G
E
Collar end
H
F
Collar width at centre back
G
Band width at centre back
H
Tie space
J
Collar length centre of button to inner edge of buttonhole
K
Collar leaf edge
A
B
K
E
F
D
J
Confidential
C
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Womenswear How To Measure
Jackets & Coats
1
2
33a
2
27
5
Shoulder – Neck point along
shoulder to armhole point.
Shoulder Point to Point – Back
shoulder to shoulder point
Front Neck Line – Along curve to
front edge including button wrap
23
24
27
8
20
10
8
28
32
11
16
10
30
11
14
14
29
15
15
F
1
24
16
G
E
Sleeve Length – Shoulder point to
sleeve end including cuff.
18 Sleeve Underarm – Underarm point
5
33
to sleeve end.
19
21
19
22
20
18
34
Across Front – Measure straight
across from armhole seam to
seam,13cm down from side front
neck point
Bust - Measure straight across from
side seam to seam .Specify bust
measuring position from side neck
point on all sizes
Waist- Measure straight across from
side seam to seam. Waist measuring
position to be specified on chart all
sizes from centre back
Lower Hip-Measure straight across
from side seam to seam. Lower hip
measuring position to be specified
on chart all sizes from centre back
Hem Circumference – Along bottom
edge of (fastened) garment.
Across Back – Measure straight
across from armhole seam to
seam,13cm down from side back
neck point
28 Back Length – Centre back neck to
hem edge.
29
Vent/Split Length – Top of opening
to hem.
30
Side Seam – Underarm point to
hem.
31 Neck Circumference – Along curve
of front and back neck.
(See fig. 5&24)
32 Dart Length – Measured from dart
end as sewn
Lapel End – Collar end point to
revere end point.
Lapel
Width - From lapel point to
33a
break line taken at a 90 angle
33
o
Centre Back Neck to sleeve end
including cuff.
34
20 Armhole Circumference – along
E
Collar End – Revere seam to outside
edge of collar.
F
Collar Width – Measured at Centre
Back
G
Collar Stand Depth - Measured at
Centre Back
curve.
23 21 Bicep – Underarm point to folded
edge.
22 Elbow – At specified measurement
Confidential
Cuff Circumference – Along bottom
of sleeve edge.
Back Neck Line – Along curve from
neck point to neck point.
from under arm
First Button Hole – neck point to
eye of button hole.
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Womenswear How To Measure
Trousers & Shorts
11
12
13
36
Waistband Depth
Top of waistband to waist seam.
11
Waist
Along top edge of waist.
See page on ‘How to Measure Waists’ for
different waist variations
12
Top Hip
Measure at same angle as waist. through
measuring positions
Specify measuring position on size chart from
top of waistband.
13
Mid Hip
Measure straight through measuring positions
Specify measuring position on size chart from
top of waistband.
14
Lower Hip
Measure straight through measuring positions
Specify measuring position on size chart from
top of waistband.
37
&
38
Front & Back Rise
From top of waistband along seam to crutch
point with exception of lap seam which is
measured in the centre of the twin needle
39
Across Fork
From crutch point to side seam.
40
Thigh
Measured straight across, 6cm down from
crutch point
41
Knee
Measured straight across, 32cm down inside leg
from crutch
42
Inside Leg
From crutch point to hem along seam
43
Outside Leg
From top of waistband down outside leg seam
or centre fold if a one piece leg to hem.
15
Hem Circumference
Along bottom edge of garment
36
38
14
39
37
40
42
43
41
15
Confidential
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Womenswear How To Measure
Skirts & Slips
11
11
Waist
Along top edge of waist.
See page on ‘How to Measure Waists’ for
different waist variations
12
Top Hip
Measure at same angle as waist.
Specify measuring position on size chart
from top of waistband.
13
Mid Hip
Measure at same angle as waist.
Specify measuring position on size chart
from top of waistband.
14
Lower Hip
Measure at same angle as waist.
Specify measuring position on size chart
from top of waistband.
15
Hem Circumference
Along bottom edge of garment fastened
29
Vent/Split Length
Top of opening to hem
35
Skirt Length
Measure from top of waistband to hem at
centre front of garment
36
Waistband Depth
Top of waistband to waist seam
36
12
13
14
35
35
29
29
15
Confidential
Womenswear How To Measure
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Waistband Variations
Fixed Waist
In the event of measuring a lot
of garments it is advisable that
a tape measure is taped to a
table with the exception of the
shaped waistband
Lay garment on a flat surface
Hold waistband straight without
stretching and place tape measure flat
onto top edge of waistband to take
measurement
Shaped or Faced Waist
Lay garment on a flat surface
Place tape measure at top of waist edge
and take measurement following the
curve of the waist
Waist measurements to be
documented as 11 on size
charts
Half Elasticated – Relaxed
Lay garment on a flat surface as sketch
Hold waistband without any tension
on elastic.and place tape measure
flat onto top edge of waistband to
take measurement flattening out
any bulky areas
Confidential
Fully Elasticated – Relaxed
Lay garment on a flat surface
Hold waistband without any tension on
elastic and place tape measure flat onto
top edge of waistband to take
measurement flattening out any bulky
areas
Fully Elasticated – Extended
Hold waistband and stretch garment
out to its fullest extent.
Place garment against tape
measure (preferably taped to table)
and take measurement from tope
edge of garment
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Womenswear How To Measure
Swimwear
1
1
Shoulder
Neck point along shoulder to armhole point
including any trim
5
Front Neck Line
Along curve from neck point to neck point
10
Chest
Straight across at underarm point from side seam
to side seam
11
Waist
Straight across side seam to side seam. Waist
measuring position to be specified on chart for all
sizes
See page on ‘How To Measure Waists’ for
different waist variations
14
Lower Hip
Straight across side seam to side seam at specified
measurement down side seam (including
waistband on bottoms)
20
Armhole Circumference
Along curve
24
Back Neck Line
Along curve from neck point to neck point.
30
Side Seam
Swim Suits & Tops -Underarm point to hem
Bottoms - From top of waistband to bottom of leg
opening
37
Front Rise
Swim Suits - From centre front neck to gusset seam
Bottoms – From top of waistband to gusset seam
38
Back Rise
Swim Suits - From centre back neck to gusset
seam
Bottoms – From top of waistband to gusset seam
45
Front Leg
Side seam to gusset seam along curve
11
46
Back Leg
Side seam to gusset seam along curve
47
Leg Extended
Along edge fully extended
14
39
Across Fork
From crutch point to side seam
15
Hem Circumference
Along bottom edge of garment
48
Gusset Seam
Along gusset seam outer edge to outer edge.
50
Gusset Width
At narrowest point outer edge to outer edge.
51
Bottom Cover
Measure from outer leg edge to out edge at
specified distance up from back seam
5
20
10
24
37
11
30
38
14
45
51
46
48
47
11
30
45
46
37
48
50
37
39
15
Confidential
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Womenswear How To Measure
Under Wired Bikini Tops
L20
L13
L10
L11
L12
L9
L7
L5
L8
L4
L2
L6
L15
L17
L16
L3
Confidential
L2
Bottom of Wing
Measured on a flat surface. Seam of cradle to
fold of clasp
L3
Around Cup
Measured on seam join with tape measure
standing up – garment on a flat surface
L4
Depth of Wing at Wire
With tape measure from top of wire casing at
underarm to bottom of wing –includes any trim
L5
Exposed Wire Cradle
Seam join at wing to centre front seam
L6
Centre Front Bottom
Width
Measured flat on a table
L7
Centre Front depth
Measured flat on a table seam to seam
L8
Back Curve of Wing
From fabric fold at clasp to inside edge of strap
L9
Cup Seam to Strap
Seam wire casing to outside of strap
L10
Apex to Cup Seam
Measured on a flat surface seam of front apex (or
Shoulder join) to seam including wire casing
(front armhole)
L11
Apex to Centre Front
(Front Neck)
Measured on a flat surface , seam of front apex
(or shoulder seam) to centre front including wire
casing
L12
Centre Front Width (Top)
Measured on a flat surface , seam to seam
excluding wire casing
L13
Strap Length
From joining seam at apex or shoulder to back
attachment (or fold of fabric if with adjuster)
L15
Depth of Top Cup
Measured at seam join (at centre of cup
including trims)
L16
Depth of Bottom Cup
Measured at seam join at centre of cup
L17
Across Cup
Measured at fullest part horizontally including
both wire casings
L18
Wire Play
Wires gently pushed to bar tack at centre front
take measurement from end of encased wire tip
to bar tack edge (movable space)
L20
Strap Width
Width measured flat
Please note the ‘How to Measure Numbers Relate Back to Lingerie ‘How to Measure’
Womenswear How To Measure
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Knitwear
4
3
1
3
20a
21
9
10
9
22
11
10
18
11
24
15
2
20a
21
28
22
18
23
Front Length - Front neck point to bottom of welt
28
Back Length - From back neck point to bottom of welt
10
Chest Width - Measurement taken at under arm point
8
Across Front – Measure in a straight line armhole to armhole,
13cm down from side neck point
11
Waist – Measure straight across garment. Waist measuring
position to be specified on chart for all sizes
15
Welt Width -Measure along bottom edge of garment welt
18
Sleeve Underarm - From underarm point to end of sleeve
1
Shoulder - from neck link line along shoulder seam to armhole
link line
2
Back Shoulder Point to Point – Measured from back shoulder
link to link
15
23
20a
10
9
Confidential
20a
Armhole – Measured straight
20a
Raglan Front – Measured straight from neck link line to under
arm
20a
Raglan Back - Measured straight from neck link line to under
arm
21
Bicep - Underarm seam to folded edge
22
Elbow - Fold cuff to underarm point measure along fold
23
Cuff Circumference - Along bottom edge of sleeve
3
Neck Drop – Centre back link seam to centre front link seam
4
Back Neck Overall – Measurement taken from front of garment
link- link
24
Back Neck Scoop – From imaginary line to link line
Womenswear How To Measure
57
Nightdresses & Tops
1
3
16
8
10
21
4
23
27
20
58
14
15
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
18
1
Shoulder - Neck point to shoulder seam
8
Across Front - 13cm down from neck point, armhole seam
to armhole seam
3
Front Neck Drop – Centre back neck edge to centre front neck edge
57
Back Neck Scoop - Depth of scoop parallel to neck points
10
Bust Circumference – Measure straight across at base of armhole
14
Hip Circumference – Measured straight across side seam to
seam. Specify hip measuring position from underarm on all sizes
15
Hem Circumference - Along of hem of garment.
20
Armhole Curved - Measured along the curve from shoulder point
to underarm point.
21
Bicep Circumference - At underarm point at right angle to fold edge
23
Cuff Circumference - Along bottom of sleeve.
56
Cuff Depth - Top row of stitching to fold of hem.
18
Underarm - From under arm point to end of sleeve including any cuff
16
Over arm - From shoulder point to end of sleeve including any cuff
58
Back Length – Centre of back shoulder to hem of garment
4
Back Neck Width - Neck point to neck point
27
Across Back – Measure from armhole seam to armhole seam,
13cm down from side back neck point,
9
Front Length - Centre of front shoulder to hem.
31
Neck Circumference - Measure around front & back neck seam.
Confidential
Womenswear How To Measure
Dressing Gowns
4
24
1
57
27
21
10
60
59
16
&
66
20
8
18
56
23
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
62
28
63
67
15
65
64
1
Shoulder - Neck point to shoulder seam
8
Across Front – Measured from armhole seam to front edge 13cms down
from neck point
27
Across Back – Measure straight across from armhole seam to seam,
13cm down from side back neck point
10
Half Bust - Across Back underarm to underarm
15
Hem Circumference - Along of hem of garment, front edge to front edge open
4
Neck Point to Point –Back neck point to neck point.
24
Back Neck Line - along curve from neck point to neck point.
57
Back Neck Scoop - Depth of scoop, parallel to neck points
20
Armhole Curved - Measured along the curve from shoulder point to underarm point.
16
Over arm - From shoulder point to end of sleeve including any cuff
18
Underarm - From under arm point to end of sleeve including any cuff
21
Bicep Circumference - At underarm point at right angle to fold edge
23
Cuff Circumference - Along bottom of sleeve
56
Cuff Depth - Top row of stitching to hem
28
Centre Back Length - Centre back neck seam to hem
59
Front Tie Position - Neck Point to Tie
60
Inside Tie Position - Underarm to the top of tie
61
Inside Tie Length - Measure length
62
Pocket Position - Underarm to top of pocket opening
63
Pocket Opening - Top of pocket opening to bottom of opening
64
Belt Depth - Top to the bottom of belt
65
Belt Length - Measure the length of the belt
66
Belt Loop Position - Underarm to top of belt loop
67
Front Band Width - Front edge to seam
Confidential
Womenswear How To Measure
Briefs
11
37
46a
14
38
48
49
48
30
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
50
38
11
Half Waist Relaxed - Measure along stitch line of waist elastic with garment laying face up on a flat surface, waist edges together.
11
Half Waist Extended - Fold garment in half side seams together. Place index fingers inside waist edge, tape on the outside,
pull in opposite directions until waist edge is stretched over the minimum measurement.
30
Side Seam - Place garment on a flat surface face up. Then displace garment moving side seam round onto front of
garment. Measure along the side seam from outer row of stitching on the waist elastic to outer row of stitching on leg elastic.
37
Front Rise - Lay garment flat and measure straight down the centre front seam from the outer row of stitching on
the waist elastic to gusset seam
Effective Front Rise - Lay garment flat with side seams together and measure along fold edge of fabric from the
outer row of stitching on the waist elastic to gusset seam.
38
Back Rise - Lay garment flat and measure straight down the centre back seam from the outer row of stitching on
the waist elastic to gusset seam (or fold )
Effective Back Rise - Lay garment flat with side seams together and measure along fold edge of fabric from the
outer row of stitching on the waist elastic to gusset seam
Total Rise – Lay garment flat with side seams together and measure along fold edge of front rise gusset & back rise from outer stitch
row on waist
50a
49
Inside Gusset
Total Rise
38
51
14
Seat Width( Low Leg Brief) - Place the garment flat with back facing up and measure from top of elastic down centre back or centre
back seam from specified measurement
Place tape measure horizontally across garment at this point and measure in a straight line from edge to edge.
Seat Width on Fold ( Midi & Full Brief) – Place garment flat face up. Fold top part of garment to the gusset 2cm from top of the leg at
side seam. Measure seat width around curve of fold
46a
Half Leg Relaxed - Fold leg in half. With front and back legs together, measure along outer edge of elastic.
47
Half leg stretched - Put index fingers inside leg either side, tape to sit on the outside (in front). Pull in opposite directions
until leg edge is stretched to over minimum measurement
48
Front Gusset Width - Place garment flat, front up. Measure along front gusset seam from outer row of stitching on leg elastic
to outer row of stitching on the opposite side.
Inside Gusset Width Front - Turn garment with gusset facing up. Measure straight across liner from edge to edge
50
Gusset Width at Narrowest – Measure at narrowest point outer edge to outer edge.
50a
Inside Gusset Length - Measure gusset length from front liner edge to back liner edge straight down the middle.
Outside Gusset Length – Fold gusset in half lengthways. Measure along fold line between outer rows of stitching on front &
back gusset seams
49
Back Gusset Width - Place garment flat with back of garment facing upwards. Measure back gusset along the seam line from outer
row of stitching of leg elastic to outer row on opposite side.
Inside Gusset Width Back - Turn garment with gusset facing up. Measure straight across liner from edge to edge.
51
Seat / Bottom Cover – Lay garment face up fold lower edge of garment at specified measurement up from back gusset seam (6cm –
Midi & Full Brief, 10cm – Mini & High Leg Brief) .Measure along outer edge of garment from outer row of stitching back leg to the
opposite back leg
14
50a
37
Confidential
Womenswear How To Measure
Womenswear
Fit Technology
March 2008
Hoods
99
Hood Height
Measurement taken at centre front or
specified point
100
Hood Depth
Measurement taken at widest point
on half
99
100
99
Confidential