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Ascena Adult’s Testing Manual
V 2.0
2
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
TABLE OF CONTENTS
APPAREL FABRIC TESTING – WOVEN……….……………………………………………………………………3
APPAREL FABRIC TESTING – KNIT………...………….………………………………………………………….5
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – WOVENS…….…………………………………………………………………7
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – KNITS…..…….………….…………………………………………………….9
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – INTIMATE APPAREL & SLEEPWEAR.……………………………….11
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – SWIMWEAR & SWIM COVER….………………………………………13
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – SWEATERS..….………………..……………………………………………15
APPAREL FABRIC & GARMENT TESTING – DENIM..……………………………………………………..…16
APPAREL LEATHER & SUEDE – SKINS & GARMENTS……..……………………………………………….18
ACCESSORIES – SOCKS, TIGHTS, LEGWARMERS, ARMWARMERS…..……………………………….19
ACCESSORIES – FASHION SCARVES, HATS, GLOVES, COLD WEATHER SCARVES….……….…20
ACCESSORIES – BELTS, BACK PACK, SOFT SIDED TOTE, HANDBAG, WALLET, CLUTCHES,
COIN PURSE, TRAVEL BAGS.…….……………………………………………………………………………..… 21
FOOTWEAR….….……….…………………………………………………………………………………………….....22
ZIPPERS…..…….……………………………………………………………………………………………………..…..23
BATH, BODY & COSMETICS………..…………………………………………………………………………..…..25
CANDLES & CANDLE HOLDERS.…..………..……………………………………………………………..………27
SUN GLASSES…..…….………………………………………………………………………………………..…………29
JEWELRY & HAIR ACCESSORIES….….…………………………………………………………………………...30
CHECK LIST ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….32
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
3
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric Testing – Woven
PROTOCOL-001
Submit:A minimum of two (2) yards in one (1) colorway must be submitted for full package testing.
One half (1/2) yard of each additional color is to be
submitted for additional colorway testing (as applicable).Submitted fabric must be representative of finished bulk fabric that will be used in garment
production.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to
work with.
Evaluation
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
non-exempt fabrics– all colors
Fiber Content
Weight – all colors
Dimensional Stability:
Home Laundering (1x and 3x)– all colors
Dimensional Stability:
Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Drycleaning– all colors
Tensile Strength
Shell

≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( ≤ 101.7 gm/m2)

> 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7~135.6 gm/m2)

> 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6~203.4 gm/m2)

>6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Lining

<3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2)

≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2)
Tear Strength
Shell Fabric

≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( ≤ 101.7 gm/m2)

> 3.0-4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7~135.6gm/m2)

> 4.0-6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6~203.4 gm/m2)

>6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Lining

<3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2)

≥ 3oz/yd2 (≥ 101.7 gm/m2)
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
All colors
Test Methods
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
AATCC 20/20A
ASTM D3776
AATCC 135
modified
AATCC 158 or
Professional Method
modified
ARG-00002 -MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
ASTM D5034
Requirements
Class I
Must Comply with Regulations
For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
+5%/- 5%
+/- 3%
Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: +/- 4%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
+/- 2%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
20
25
30
40
lbs
lbs
lbs
lbs
minimum
minimum
minimum
minimum
15 lbs minimum
20 lbs minimum
ASTM D1424
1.5
2.0
3.0
4.0
lbs
lbs
lbs
lbs
minimum
minimum
minimum
minimum
1.0 lbs minimum
1.5 lbs minimum
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
AATCC 135
modified
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body
fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
AATCC 158
modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
4
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric Testing – Woven (continued)
General
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum
Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label.
Report as Data only)
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non Chlorine Bleach – all
colors
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors
lining fabrics for jackets, vests
PROTOCOL-001
AATCC 8 or
AATCC 116
Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon
Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
AATCC 15
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
5
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric Testing – Knit
PROTOCOL-002
Submit:A minimum of two (2) yards in one (1) colorway must be submitted for full package testing.One half (1/2) yard of each
additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing (as applicable).Submitted fabric must be representative of
finished bulk fabric that will be used in garment production.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large
enough to work with.
Evaluation
Test Methods
Requirements
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
AATCC 20/20A
Class I
Must Comply with Regulations
For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
+/- 5%
Basic Knits
+/- 5%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
non-exempt fabrics– all colors
Fiber content
Weight– all colors
Dimensional Stability:
Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
Dimensional Stability:
Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Drycleaning– all colors
Skewness in Fabric
Bursting Strength
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
– all colors
ASTM D3776
AATCC 135
modified
AATCC 158 or
Professional Method
modified
ARG-00002 -MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
AATCC 179 Method 2,
Option 3
ASTM D3786
AATCC 135
modified
Rib / Novelty Knits
+/- 6%
+/- 2%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
5% maximum
≥ 4 oz: 50 psi
< 4 oz: 30 psi
Lace
≥ 4 oz: 30 psi
< 4 oz: 20 psi
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label.
Report as Data only)
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non Chlorine Bleach – all
colors
AATCC 158
modified
AATCC 8 or
AATCC 116
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or
pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report
as Data only
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
General
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum
Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon
Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
6
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric Testing – Knit (continued)
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors
lining fabrics for jackets, vests
AATCC 15
PROTOCOL-002 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
7
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Garment Testing – Wovens
PROTOCOL-003
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. Each additional color is to be
submitted for additional colorway testing.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to
work with.
Evaluation
Fiber Content
Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) –
all colors
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning
– all colors
Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage
Shell

≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2)

> 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2)

> 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4gm/m2)

>6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Lining

<3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2)

≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2)
Test Methods
AATCC 20/20A
AATCC 150
modified
AATCC 158 or
Professional Method
modified
ARG-00002-MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
ASTM D1683
to both shell & lining fabrics
For blends, +/- 3% maximum.
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
+/- 3%
Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: +/- 4%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
+/- 2%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
15
20
25
30
lbs
lbs
lbs
lbs
min
min
min
min
15 lbs min
20 lbs min
15 lbs min Functional
10 lbs min Lace
Strap Attachment
Water Resistance - rainwear duty garments, water resistance claim
Water Repellency: Spray Test - water repellent claims; applies
Requirements
AATCC 35
AATCC 22
1 gm. Max. for 2 minute duration at 600 millimeters
100 min
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
All colors
AATCC 150
modified
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel
body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
AATCC 158
modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
8
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Garment Testing – Wovens (continued)
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care
label. Report as Data only)
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all
colors
Zipper Marking
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at
fabric stage – all colors
Stretch and Recovery
(Bottoms Only with >=2% elastomeric/stretch fiber)
AATCC 8 or
AATCC 116
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Visual Assessment
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
ASTM 3107 or
ASTM D6614
PROTOCOL-003 General
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum
Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
For Pigment Prints & Dyes/ Black/Neon
Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Approved trim supplier brand marking required
Criteria - Pass/Fail
Class I
Must Comply with Regulations
Extension : 15% @ 4lbs. /2”Width
Maximum Growth: 5% @ 30 min.
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
9
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Garment Testing – Knits
PROTOCOL-004
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. Each additional color is to be
submitted for additional colorway testing.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to
work with.
Evaluation
Fiber Content
Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at
fabric stage.
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) –
all colors
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) –
all colors
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/
Dry-cleaning – all colors
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist
Strap Attachment
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments
Water Resistance - rainwear duty garments, water
resistance claim
Water Repellency: Spray Test - water repellent
claims; applies to both shell & lining fabrics
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding
absorbency or wicking
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry
Air Permeability – wind resistance claim; shell fabric
only
Test Methods
AATCC 20/20A
AATCC 150
modified
AATCC 158 or Professional
Method
modified
ARG-00002-MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER CARE
AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3
ASTM D1683
AATCC/ASTM TS-015
Requirements
For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Basic Knits
+/-5%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Rib / Novelty Knits
+/- 6%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
+/- 2%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
5% maximum
15 lbs min Functional
10 lbs min Lace
15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
AATCC 35
1 gm. Max. for 2 minute duration at 600 millimeters
AATCC 22
100 min
ARG-00004 MTHD-VERTICAL
WICKING
ARG-00003-MTHD DRYING
RATE
ASTM D737
8 cm A/20 minutes min.
Before Wash: 70% min.
After 5x cycles: rate as data only
5.0 cfm max.
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
All colors
AATCC 150
modified
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel
body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
AATCC 158
modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
10
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Garment Testing – Knits (continued)
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per
care label. Report as Data only)
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach–
all colors
Zipper Marking
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested
at fabric stage – all colors
AATCC 8 or
AATCC 116
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Visual Assessment
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
PROTOCOL-004 General
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum
Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
For Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon
Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Approved trim supplier brand marking required
Criteria - Pass/Fail
Class I
Must Comply with Regulations
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
11
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear
PROTOCOL-005
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. For intimates apparel submit
(4) four garments for each style in one (1) colorway. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to
work with.
Evaluation
Fiber Content
Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at
fabric stage.
Weight– all colors
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) –
all colors
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) –
all colors
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/
Dry-cleaning – all colors
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments
Seam Strength/Seam Slippage




≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2)
> 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2
( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2)
> 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4
gm/m2)
>6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Bursting Strength – Mullen Method
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding
absorbency or wicking;
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry;
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
All colors
Test Methods
AATCC 20/20A
ASTM 3776
AATCC 135 / 150
modified
AATCC 158 or Professional
Method
modified
ARG-00002-MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER CARE
AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3
AATCC/ASTM TS-015
Requirements
For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
+/- 5%
Basic Knits
+/-5%
Rib / Novelty Knits
+/- 6%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Wovens
+/- 3%
Woven Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends:
+/- 4%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
+/- 2%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
5% maximum
15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
15 lbs min
ASTM D1683
20 lbs min
25 lbs min
ASTM D 3786
ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL
WICKING
ARG-00003-MTHD DRYING
RATE
AATCC 150
modified
30 lbs min
Fabric: 50 psi minimum
Garment Seams: 30 psi minimum
Lace:
> 4 oz/sq yd: 30 psi minimum
<= 4 oz/sq yd: 20 psi minimum
8 cm A/20 minutes min.
Before Wash: 70% min.
After 5x cycles: rate as data only
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
AATCC 158
modified
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel
body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
12
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear (continued)
PROTOCOL-005 Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach–
all colors
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors
Intimate Apparel
Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
(White Bra Only)
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
non-exempt fabrics– all colors
General
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum
Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
For Pigment Prints & Dyes / Black/Neon
Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
AATCC 15
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
AATCC23
Grade 4 minimum after 1 cycle
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I
Must Comply with Regulations
JIS L1041
Only conduct if spot test shows positive or inconclusive result.
All fabrics/trims that come into contact with skin shall not exceed 75
mg/kg (75 ppm).
Formaldehyde Spot Test on Textile
Intimate Apparel Only
AATCC 94
Body Fabric/Fabric/Trim (including elastic, embroidery, ribbons,
bows, applique, drawcord, patches, twill tape, etc.) shall be
negative result.
Not applied on synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, PU, etc.; wet
chem. analysis should be done.
pH
Intimate Apparel Only
AATCC 81
White: 5.5 – 7.0
Others: 5.0 – 9.0
Hook & Eye Tension
ARG-00001
No breakage, deformation, detachment, shifting or other damage
after 30 lbs hold for 10 seconds. All hooks and eyes are required to
meet requirements.
Bra Band Elongation
ARG-00005
Minimum: Report as Data
Maximum: Report as Data
Formaldehyde Content in Textile
Intimate Apparel Only
In stretch direction only:
Elastic Fiber Content
Test In Original State and After aging 5 hours at 200° F
1 – 5%: Measure Growth after 60
minutes.
Growth: maximum 7.0%
Stretch & Fabrics: Load, Elongation, & Recovery
Intimate Apparel Only (All Fabrics and Functional
Elastics )
Pass or fail based on growth.
ASTM D2594
Above 5%, but less than 10%:
Measure Growth and Recovery
after 60 minutes. Report both
growth and recovery.
Growth: maximum 5.0%
Pass or fail based on growth.
Equal to or greater than 10%:
Measure Recovery after 60
seconds.
Recovery: Minimum 85.0%
Pass or fail based on recovery.
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
13
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Swimwear & Swim Cover-up
PROTOCOL-006
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. For swimwear submit (4) four
garments for each style in one (1) colorway. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to
work with.
Evaluation
Fiber Content
Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at
fabric stage.
Weight– all colors
Test Methods
AATCC 20/20A
ASTM 3776
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) –
AATCC 135 / 150
modified
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) –
AATCC 135 / 150
modified
all colors
all colors
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) –
all colors
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/
Dry-cleaning – all colors
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments
Seam Strength/Seam Slippage




≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2)
> 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2
( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2)
> 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4
gm/m2)
>6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding
absorbency or wicking;
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry;
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
All colors
AATCC 158 or Professional
Method modified
ARG-00002-MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER CARE
AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3
AATCC/ASTM TS-015
Requirements
For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
+/- 5%
Basic Knits
+/-5%
Rib / Novelty Knits
+/- 6%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Wovens
+/- 3%
Woven Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends:
+/- 4%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
+/- 2%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
5% maximum
15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
15 lbs min
20 lbs min
ASTM D1683
25 lbs min
30 lbs min
ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL
WICKING
ARG-00003-MTHD DRYING
RATE
AATCC 150
modified
8 cm A/20 minutes min.
Before Wash: 70% min.
After 5x cycles: rate as data only
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel
body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
AATCC 158
modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
14
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Swimwear & Swim Cover-up (continued)
PROTOCOL-006 General
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum
Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
For Pigment Prints & Dyes / Black/Neon
Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Light – all colors
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach–
all colors
Colorfastness to Sea Water - swimwear, only– all
colors
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Waterswimwear, only– all colors
Hook & Eye Tension
Zipper Marking
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
Non-exempt Fabrics – all colors
AATCC 16 Option 3
20 AFU’s
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Grade 3.0 minimum
Neon Colors: Grade 2.0 minimum
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
AATCC 106
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
EN ISO 105 E03
50ml Solution
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
ARG-00001
Visual Assessment
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
No breakage, deformation, detachment, shifting or other damage
after 30 lbs hold for 10 seconds. All hooks and eyes are required to
meet requirements.
Approved trim supplier brand marking required
Criteria - Pass/Fail
Class I
Must Comply with Regulations
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
15
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Garment Testing – Sweaters
PROTOCOL-007
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway along with one (1) additional garment or knit down panels
(three (3) pcs 24” x 24”) of additional color, stripe or pattern.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to
work with.
Evaluation
Fiber Content
Weight– all colors
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering–
all colors
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) –
all colors
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering / Drycleaning – all colors
Test Methods
AATCC 20/20A
Per dozen garments
AATCC 150
modified
AATCC 158 or Professional
Method
modified
ARG-00002-MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
Requirements
For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
+/-5%
+/- 5%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
+/- 2%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
All colors
AATCC 150
modified
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel
body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
AATCC 158
modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care
label. Report as Data only)
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach –
AATCC 8 or
AATCC 116
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum
Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist
AATCC 179 Method 2,
Option 3
5% maximum
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments
AATCC/ASTM TS-015
15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
all colors
Pilling Resistance (ICI Method – Sweaters)
Zipper Marking
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at
fabric stage – all colors
IWS 152/ ISO 12945-1
Visual Assessment
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
Lambswool, Cashmere – Grade 3 A/2 hrs
All Others – Grade 3 A/4 hrs.
Approved trim supplier brand marking required
Criteria - Pass/Fail
Class I
Must comply with Regulations
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
16
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Denim
PROTOCOL-008
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway and one (1) garment in each additional colorway.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are
not large enough to work with.
Evaluation
Fiber Content
Weight – all colors
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering– all
finishes/colors
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering – all
finishes/colors
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist
Tensile Strength

< 6.0oz/yd2 ( < 203.4 gm/m2)

≥ 6.0 - <8.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 ~ < 271.2 gm/m2)

≥ 8.0 - <10.0 oz/yd2 (≥271.2 ~ < 339.1 gm/m2)

≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥ 339.1 gm/m2)
Tear Strength

< 6.0oz/yd2 (<203.4 gm/m2)

≥ 6.0 - < 8.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 ~ < 271.2 gm/m2)

≥ 8.0 - < 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥271.2 ~ < 339.1
gm/m2)

≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥ 339.1 gm/m2)
Test Methods
AATCC 20/20A
ASTM 3776
Fabric: AATCC 135
Garment: AATCC 150
modified
ARG-00002-MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
AATCC 179 Method 2,
Option 3
ASTM D5034
ASTM D1424
ASTM D2261
Requirements
For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
+/- 5%
+/- 3%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
Coloration applied by Tint - Report Data Only
5% maximum
65
65
70
75
3.5
3.5
4.0
4.5
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
40
50
55
65
lbs
lbs
lbs
lbs
3.0
3.0
3.5
4.0
min
min
min
min
lbs
lbs
lbs
lbs
min
min
min
min
<6.0 oz/yd2
Seams – 20 lbs min
Felled Seams – 25 lbs min
Seam Strength

< 6.0oz/yd2 ( < 203.4 gm/m2)

≥6.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 gm/m2)
pH - washed garments only (all colors)
ASTM D1683
AATCC 81
≥ 6.0 oz/yd2
Seams – 30 lbs min
Felled Seams – 30 lbs min
Reinforced and Bartack seams:
-20 lbs minimum
All Colors: 5 – 8
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
All colors
AATCC 135 /AATCC 150
modified
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel
body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
17
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Denim (continued)
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care
label. Report as Data only)
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach –
all colors
Formaldehyde Content in Textile
Zipper Marking
Stretch and Recovery
(Bottoms Only with >=2% elastomeric/stretch fiber)
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at
fabric stage (all colors)
PROTOCOL-008 Dark wash: Indigo, over-dyed, black
Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
Wet: Grade 2.0 minimum
AATCC 8 or
AATCC 116
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
JIS L1041
Visual Assessment
ASTM 3107 or
ASTM D6614
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
All other Denim washes:
Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum
Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
All fabrics/trims that come into contact with skin shall not exceed 75
mg/kg (75 ppm).
Approved trim supplier brand marking required
Criteria - Pass/Fail
Extension : 15% @ 4lbs. /2”Width
Maximum Growth: 5% @ 30 min.
Class I
Must Comply with Regulations
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
18
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Apparel Leather and Suede – Skins & Garment
PROTOCOL-009
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway along with two (2) 10” x 10” samples of leather/suede in
each additional colorway.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted
are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation
Weight
Test Methods
ASTM 3776
Fiber Content- as applicable for linings.
AATCC 20/20A
Requirements
+/- 5%
For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Professional Leather
Cleaning (1x)– all colors
Professional Leather
Cleaning Method
Length/ Width:
Growth: + 2%
Shrinkage: - 2% x - 2%
Appearance Evaluation After Professional Leather
Cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002 MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
3.5 or Satisfactory
Zipper Marking
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)
Non-exempt fabrics only – all colors
Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage (Woven
Garments)
Shell
Lining
Visual Assessment
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
ASTM D1683
Approved trim supplier brand marking required
Criteria - Pass/Fail
Class I
Must comply with Regulations
30 lbs min

3.0 oz/yd2 (<101.7 gm/m2)
15 lbs min

>3.0oz/yd2 (> 101.7 gm/m2)
20 lbs min
Colorfastness to Crocking
Colorfastness to Light – Shell only
Colorfastness to Perspiration – Linings only
AATCC 8/AATCC 116
Shell
Dry: 3.0
Wet: 2.0
AATCC 16 Option 3 20
AFU’s
CC: 3.0
AATCC 15
CC: 4.0
CS: 3.0
Lining
Dry: 4.0
Wet: 3.0
Documentation review for Species Identification
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
19
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Accessories – Socks, Tights, Legwarmers, Armwarmers
PROTOCOL-010
Submit: a minimum of six (6) pair socks or four (4) pair tights. All colorways must be represented.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted
are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation
Fiber Content
Test Methods
AATCC 20/20A
Requirements
For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
AATCC 150
modified
Length/ Width:
+/- 5%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering
–all colors
ARG-00002-MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
3.5 or Satisfactory
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) of
Non-Exempt Fabrics – all colors
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I
Must comply with Regulations
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding
absorbency or wicking
ARG-00004-MTHD
VERTICAL WICKING
7 cm A/20 minutes min.
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8/AATCC 116
Dry: 4.0
Wet: 3.0
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine
Bleach – all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering – all
colors
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
20
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Accessories - Fashion Scarves, Hats, Gloves, Cold Weather Scarves
PROTOCOL-011
Submit: three (3) items in one (1) colorway. If flammability and/or lead testing is required send one (1) item each
additional colorway.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted
are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation
Fiber Content
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering –
one color adequate
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering
Test Methods
AATCC 20/20A
AATCC 150
modifed
ARG-00002-MTHDAPPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
Requirements
For blends, +/- 3% maximum. Report fiber content as percentage of
whole for knit hats, gloves.
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Scarves: +/- 6%
All Other Products: +/- 5%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
3.5 or Satisfactory
General
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label
All colors
AATCC 150
modified
Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum
Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen
Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body
fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine
Bleach – all colors
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) of
Non-Exempt Fabrics for scarves, only – all
colors
AATCC 8/AATCC 116
Dry: 4.0
Wet: 3.0
AATCC/ASTM TS-001
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
16 CFR 1610
Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I
Must comply with Regulations
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN
APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
21
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Accessories - Belts, Back Pack, Soft-Sided Tote, Handbag, Wallet, Clutches, Coin Purse,
Travel Bags
PROTOCOL-012
Submit: Belt Testing: Send minimum of six (6) bulk production units if surface coating/printing is present.
Back Pack/Handbags/Totes/Wallets/Clutches etc: Submit six – ten (6-10), depending on size and/or amount of
surface coating. If no coating is present, send three (3) bulk production units. Include all colorways.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted
are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation
Test Methods
Requirements
Products shall comply with the following requirements, as applicable:
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.1
CPSC-CH-E1002-08.1
CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1
1. All accessible components in wallets, purses, handbags, clutches and totes,
footwear and belts shall comply with the following limits (a),(b),(c) and (d):
a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content.
b. PVC components/vinyl/faux leather accessible to the consumer touch, shall not
exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content.
c. Leather components shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content.
Materials or components other than (a)-(c) shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total
lead content.
Total Lead Content
Compositing of up to 3 colors/ materials is acceptable for Lead in Substrates
(including metals) and Lead in Surface Coatings.
Phthalates Content
Belts
Colorfastness to Crocking
(Face and Back)
All other Items
Face Only
Strap Attachment
Items with straps only
CA Proposition 65
(CGC-10-497729 &
CGC-10-498981)
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3
AATCC 8/ AATCC 116
ASTM D5034
Requirement (1) is not applicable to glass, ceramic and crystal such as cubic zirconia
(CZ), glass or rhinestones – Legal Counsel to be consulted. Materials understood to
be exempt for Prop 65 but not for products under CPSIA.
Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP and DBP
in the following materials:
PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are
included.
Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state.
Belts:
Dry: 3.5
All other Items:
Dry: 3.5
Wet: 2.5
25 lbs minimum
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
22
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Footwear
PROTOCOL-013
Submit: three – six (3-6) pairs. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE
PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation
Test Methods
Requirements
Products shall comply with the following requirements, as applicable:
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.1
CPSC-CH-E1002-08.1
CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1
1. All accessible components in wallets, purses, handbags, clutches and totes,
footwear and belts shall comply with the following limits (a),(b),(c) and (d):
a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content.
b. PVC components/vinyl/faux leather accessible to the consumer touch, shall not
exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content.
c. Leather components shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content.
Materials or components other than (a)-(c) shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total
lead content.
Total Lead Content
Compositing of up to 3 colors/ materials is acceptable for Lead in Substrates
(including metals) and Lead in Surface Coatings.
Phthalates Content
CA Proposition 65
(CGC-10-497729 &
CGC-10-498981)
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3
Requirement (1) is not applicable to glass, ceramic and crystal such as cubic zirconia
(CZ), glass or rhinestones – Legal Counsel to be consulted. Materials understood to
be exempt for Prop 65 but not for products under CPSIA.
Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP and DBP
in the following materials:
PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are
included.
Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state.
Heel Attachment Strength
ASTM F2232
150 lb
Heel Impact Test Heels 2” or
higher
BS5131-4.9
No Cracking @ 20,000 cycles
Toplifts – Heel Strength
BS5131-5.9
25 lbs
Flex Cracking Resistance
EN 17707
Outsole
No Cracking @ 50,000 cycles
Sole Bond Peeling
BS5131-5.4
Glued On
3.0 N/mm
Flex Sole
2.0 N/mm
Strap / Buckle Attachment
BS5131-5.11
44 lbs
Ornament Attachment
BS5131-5.11
15 lbs / 10 sec.
Slip Resistance
ASTM F609
Strap Pull Out
BS5131-5.11
Unscuffed
0.4 Static/0.3 Kinetic
Scuffed
0.5 Static /0.4 Kinetic
Note: Perform Scuffing when original fails. Report results of both.
Rubber
Lateral Pull 14lbs
Vertical Pull 16lbs
Thong 55 lbs
Heel Quarter 44 lbs
Harachi 22 lbs
Strappy Sandal 44 lbs
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
23
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Zippers
Evaluation
PROTOCOL-014
Test Methods
Construction Quality
General Assessment
Sharp Points / Sharp Edges
CPSC 16 CFR 1500.4849
ASTM D2061
Zipper Strength Testing
Lead Content in Surface Coating .
Scrapeable in each color
Total Lead in Substrate Material
Phthalates in each plasticized part
/ material such as PVC, Vinyl, etc.
Requirements
Open-end zipper must have safety stop Zipper slide must be of locking type Zipper
functions with ease
No sharp points or sharp edges allowed
Use below chart for requirements and reference depending on zipper type
CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1
.90 ppm (0.009% Total Weight) Composite Testing Permitted
CPSC-CH-E1002-08.3 /
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.3
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3
.100 ppm (0.01% Total Weight) Composite Testing Permitted
.1000 ppm (0.1%)
Zipper Strength Test ASTM D2061
Specification Number & Requirements
1-2
3-4
5-7 (A)
5-7 (B)
8-9
10
0.125-0.180
0.1250.180
0.1810.310
0.1810.310
0.3110.390
0.3200.500
7/16-9/16
7/169/16
9/16-3/4
9/16-3/4
5/8-3/4
3/4-1.0
Brass / Nickel
66
121
110.3
143
143
165
Aluminum
53
77
77
88
88
110
Plastic
59
59
77
77
110
132
Coiled
66
77
132
154
176
220
Brass / Nickel
15.4
19.8
22
33
33
48.4
Aluminum
15.4
19.8
26.4
33
33
48.4
Plastic
15.4
19.8
24
26.4
37
48.4
Coiled
15.4
13.2
26.4
33
33
48.4
Brass / Nickel
6.6
12
13.2
17.6
18.7
24.2
Aluminum
5.3
7.7
11
11
12
16.5
Plastic
5.5
5.5
10
10
17.6
19.8
Brass / Nickel
5.3
9
9.9
9.9
13.2
18.7
Aluminum
5.3
6
6.2
9.9
12.1
16.5
Plastic
5.3
7.7
11
11
15.4
22
Closed Chain Width (inch)
Tape Width (inch)
Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061;
14.1
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf, min)
ASTM D2061; 30.3
Single Element Strength (lbs. min) ASTM D2061;
14.2
Single Element Slippage (lbs., min.) ASTM D2061;
14.3
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
24
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Zippers (continued)
Specification Number & Requirements
PROTOCOL-014 1-2
3-4
5-7 (A)
5-7 (B)
8-9
10
0.125-0.180
0.1250.180
0.1810.310
0.1810.310
0.3110.390
0.3200.500
7/16-9/16
7/169/16
9/16-3/4
9/16-3/4
5/8-3/4
3/4-1.0
Brass / Nickel
8.4
13.2
13.2
13.2
15.4
15.4
Aluminum
8.4
8.8
13.2
13.2
15.4
15.4
Plastic
5.5
4
7.7
13.2
13.2
15.4
Coiled
4.4
4.4
11
13.2
15.4
15.4
Brass / Nickel
22
22
39.6
44
55
66
Aluminum
22
22
39.6
44
55
66
Plastic
22
22
39.6
39.6
44
66
Coiled
17.6
17.6
39.6
44
55
66
Brass / Nickel
4
4
4
4
4
4
Aluminum
4
4
4
4
4
4
Plastic
4
4
4
4
4
4
Coiled
4
4
4
4
4
4
Brass / Nickel
0.7
0.8
1.1
1.5
1.8
1.8
Aluminum
0.7
0.8
1.1
1.5
1.8
1.8
Plastic
1.1
1.1
1.5
1.5
1.6
1.9
Coiled
1.1
0.9
1.5
1.5
1.6
1.9
Brass / Nickel
15.4
17.6
22
28.6
33
35
Aluminum
15.4
17.6
22
22
33
35
Plastic
17.6
17.6
22
26.4
33
35
Coiled
15.4
17.6
26.4
28.6
28
35
Brass / Nickel
11
17.6
17.6
22
26.5
33
Aluminum
10
13
19.8
15.4
26.5
33
Plastic
11
11
19.8
22
30
37
Coiled
6.6
11
20
22
30
39.6
Closed Chain Width (inch)
Tape Width (inch)
Slider Lock Hold (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 87.1
Tab Pull-Off Strength (lbs., min) ASTM D2061;
68.1
Tab Twist-Off Strength (in-lb, min) ASTM D2061;
52.1
Operability (Open/Close) (lbf, max) ASTM D2062;
16
Top Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 22.2
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 22.5
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
25
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Bath, Body, and Cosmetics
Evaluation
Test Methods
PROTOCOL-015
Requirements
Scope: This protocol covers nail polish, fake fingernails, fragrance, lotion, bath gel, make up, hair color, hair spray.
Submit: Approximately 9 - 12 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately.
Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large
enough to work with.
NOTE: In addition to the below testing, all vendors are responsible for meeting FDA requirements outlined in the Food, Drug &
Cosmetic Act (US) and the Health Canada requirements outlined in the Food and Drug Act (Canada).
LABELING
Cosmetic Ingredients and Labeling Review
FDA 21 CFR 701 &
740 Cosmetic Labeling
and FDA 21 CFR 700
and 73, 74 & 82 / US
FDA, Food Drug &
Cosmetics Regulations
(21 CFR 73, 74, 81,
82, 250, & 700 to
740) / Health Canada
Guidelines - Labeling
of Cosmetics
Country of Origin Marking
Marking of Imported
Goods Memo D11-3-1
/ Country of Origin /
19 CFR 134.11 /
Marking of imported
goods order, C.R.C.,
c. 535 / Canada
Customs Tariff,
Marking of Imported
Goods Regulations,
SOR-94-10
All colorants and ingredients of cosmetic products must comply with U.S.
Food and Drug Administration, Food Drug and Cosmetic Regulations.
Ingredients must be listed on all product using recognized names from the
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system as found
in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook and in
accordance to the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
Must Comply with Regulations. Rate as Data.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
26
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Bath, Body, and Cosmetics (continued)
Evaluation
Test Methods
PROTOCOL-015
Requirements
Analytical
21 CFR 700.13 /
Mercury
Total Heavy Metal Contents in Cosmetics
Total Lead Content in Cosmetics and
Cosmetic Accessories
Total Lead Content in Surface Coatings
Cosmetic Regulations
C.R.C., c. 869
Canada Guidance on
Heavy Metal
Impurities in
Cosmetics
/ NHPD
Compendium of
Monographs
Less than 1ppm mercury in cosmetics intended for use in any area other
than around the eye or less than 65ppm mercury for cosmetics intended for
use only in the area of the eye.
In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if
dated within 1 year.
Cosmetic products shall not have total heavy metal contents
exceed the following limits:
Lead ≤ 10 ppm
Arsenic ≤ 3 ppm
Cadmium ≤ 3 ppm
Mercury ≤ 3 ppm
Antimony ≤ 3 ppm
Alameda Superior Court,
01-032306, RG
07321854 and H217587
/ EPA 3051A (modified) /
EPA 3050B (modified)
[Cosmetic and Cosmetic Accessories]
All adult cosmetic and cosmetic accessories shall not exceed the following
limit:
a. Lip/mouth cosmetics shall not exceed 0.35 ppm total lead content.
b. All other cosmetic items shall not exceed 0.5 ppm total lead content.
Note:
- Applicable to cosmetics, including but not limited to lipstick/liner/gloss,
eye shadow/liner, facial powders, blush, mascara, pencils, make up
creams/gels, foundation and nail polish.
- Applicable to accessories, including but not limited to cosmetic brushes,
blusher tools, applicators and mirrors.
- Excluding products under the FDA definition, including but not limited to
lotion, body wash, body tattoo, adhesive fake eyelash and eyelash glue.
AOAC 974.01
(modified)
All accessible surface coatings in the as received state on the
item outside of the scope of CCPSA shall not contain lead or lead
components in which the lead content is in excess of 0.009%
(90ppm) of the weight of the total content.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
Component testing is allowed.
Composite up to 3 colors are allowed.
Shall meet requirements per product type.
USP 51 Preservative Effectiveness - doc
review
USP <51>
In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if
dated within 1 year.
[CTFA (PCPC) Items]
Shall meet requirements per product type.
USP 61 (Harmonized) - doc review
USP <61> / PCPC
In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if
dated within 1 year.
[CTFA (PCPC) Items]
Shall meet requirements per product type.
USP 62 (Harmonized) - doc review
USP <62> / PCPC
In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if
dated within 1 year.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
27
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Candles and Candle Holders
PROTOCOL-016 Submit: approximately 4 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately.
Note: actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large
enough to work with.
Evaluation
Candle - FPLA
Consumer Chemicals and Containers
Regulations
Test Methods
Requirements
16 CFR 501.7
The candles must be labeled with count and length or height in
inches to meet the requirements of FPLA.
SOR/2001-269
The manufacturer or importer must provide completed CCCR
Submission Requirements Form certifying compliance or nonapplicability with these requirements.
If document is not obtained after one business day and one email
attempt the submitted sample will be sent for outsource testing
with CAS and ingredient list for intended liquid.
Reject if no Form or incomplete Form is received.
Country of Origin
19 CFR 134.11
Canada Customs Tariff,
Marking of Imported
Goods Regulations,
SOR-94-10
Marking of Imported
Goods Memorandum
D11-3-1
Must Comply with Regulations
Labeling Review
Visual Assessment /
ASTM F2058
section 6.3 (modified)
/ ASTM F2601 section
5.4.3.1 (3) / Canadian
proposed candle
regulation section 3
Use/Care instructions and/or Warning/Cautionary labeling that are
clear and understandable shall be provided in English.
UPLR / FPLA / Consumer Packing and
Labeling Act and Regulations
NIST handbook 130 part
IV A Section 3, 5 & 6
16 CFR 500.4 /
16 CFR 500.5 /
16 CFR 500/ Consumer
Packing and Labeling Act
and Regulations
C.R.C.,c.417 section 6
Must Comply with Regulations
Flammability / Safety
Flame impingement shall be 5 minutes. Shall not crack or break
exposing a sharp point / edge or expose flame to the outside of
the holder. Shall not ignite or create hazardous conditions. Holder
damage (Non-hazardous) is acceptable.
Candle Holder – Flammability Test
Flammability of Solids
Safety Requirements for Stability
16 CFR 1500.3 (c) (6)
(vi) / 16 CFR 1500.44
(modified)
ASTM F2601-12
section 4.4
Shall not exceed the maximum allowable limit of no greater than
0.1 inches per second. All surfaces of each different material on
candleholders shall be tested for flammability of solids.
Modification = Test all surface of each material rather than test on
major axis only
Shall not tip over when placed on a minimum 10 degree incline.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
28
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Candles and Candle Holders (continued)
PROTOCOL-016 Analytical
[Glass and / or Metal Decorative Mug, Tea Light Votives, Candle
Holders and Home Decorative Products]
Product made with glass and metal shall comply the following
requirements:
Lead Content in Glass and/or Metal Tea Light
Votives, Candle Holders and Home Decorative
Products
Alameda Superior
Court, HG-04-183355
/ NIOSH method
9100 (modified) / EPA
3050B (modified)
Must meet (a) & (c), or (b) & (c).
a. The metal portions shall produce no more than 5.0 micrograms
of lead, in Ghost WipeTM test,
or
b. Each metal (such as solder and came) shall not exceed 0.1%
(1000 ppm) total lead content,
and
c. If product has exterior decorations or markings, shall have no
more than 5.0 micrograms of lead, using a Ghost WipeTM test
applied to all colored decorated exterior surface and metal
portions.
Products exceed either the limits shall utilize a warning statement.
Please reference to image appendix for labeling requirement and
the warning statement.
Note:
- Applicable to products that are primarily made of glass and / or
metal. It does not include wooden picture frame.
- Decorations include color on top of the base material.
Lead in Metal Wick - Metal-Cored Wicks
Total Lead Content in Candle
Total Lead Content in Surface Coatings
Toxicological Risk Assessment - doc review
16 CFR
1500.17(a)(13)
Orange Superior
Court, 799222 / EPA
3050B (modified)
AOAC 974.02
(modified)
Canada Consumer
Product Safety Act
(CCPSA) / Canada
Consumer Chemicals
and Containers
Regulations
(SOR/2001-269) Part
1 and 2
The outer container or wrapper of candles with metal-cored wicks
(Manufactured or imported on or after Oct. 15, 2003) must be
labeled “Conforms to 16 CFR 1500.17(a)(13).”
No lead core wick is allowed.
All accessible surface coatings in the as received state shall not
contain lead or lead components in which the lead content is in
excess of 0.009% (90ppm) of the weight of the total content.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
Component testing is allowed.
Compositing up to 3 like materials is allowed.
Product shall be evaluated for the potential to be an acute toxic, a
skin irritant, eye irritant or corrosive. Labeling review is not
included.
Toxicity Risk Assessment shall be conducted for the following
components:
All liquids, pastes, putties, gels and powders regardless of claim
Other materials bearing a "NON-TOXIC" claim on samples and/or
its packaging
In lieu of testing, test report can be submitted if dated
within 5 years.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
29
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Sunglasses
PROTOCOL-017
Submit: Approximately 3 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component
separately. Note: actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples
submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation
Test Methods
Requirements
Performance Tests
Impact Resistance
21 CFR 801.410 /
ANSI Z80.3-2010
Section 4.2
[Applicable for nonprescription sunglasses]
5/8-inch (0.56 ounce) steel ball weighing is dropped from a height
of 50 inches upon the horizontal upper surface of the lens.
Lens shall not fracture, crack or release any material.
In lieu of testing, test report can be submitted – must be
current within one year.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
30
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Jewelry & Hair Accessories
PROTOCOL-018 Scope: this protocol addresses jewelry, watches, hair accessories, key chains and charms and similar products.
Submit: approximately 15 – 20 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing. The number of
samples that are required for testing varies. Note: The following is a general guideline. For more precise guidance, contact the lab prior to
submitting samples.
Evaluation
Test Methods
Requirements
Analytical
a. Post assemblies for jewelry which are inserted into pierced ears
and other pierced parts of the human body shall not exceed 0.11
µg/cm2/week.
Nickel in Metal Materials
EN 1811:2011 / EN
12472:2005+A1:2009
b. All other jewelry intended to come into direct and prolonged
contact with the skin shall not exceed 0.28 µg/cm2/week.
Note:
Applies to Sensitive Skin Claims Only.
Items covered include: components of earrings (other than post
assemblies), necklaces, bracelets, chains, anklets, finger
rings,wrist-watch cases, watch straps and tighteners.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
Product shall be made of one of the following materials.
Recommend all products shall provide documentation or material
bill for material identification.
Total Lead Content in Body Piercing Jewelry
Total cadmium content
California Law, Health
and Safety Codes
section 25214.125214.4.2 / EPA
3050B (modified) /
EPA 3051A (modified)
/ EPA 3052 (modified)
Alameda Superior
Court, RG-10514803/California
Law, Health and
Safety Codes section
25214.125214.4.2/EPA 3050B
modified / EPA 3051A
modified / EPA3052
modified / CPSD-AN00108-MTHD
a. Surgical implant stainless steel
b. Surgical implant grades of titanium
c. Niobium (Nb)
d. Solid 14 karat or higher white or yellow nickel-free gold
e. Solid platinum
f. Dense low porosity plastic (e.g., Tygon or PTFE) with no
intentionally added (less than 200 ppm) lead
Products must comply with the material and lead requirements.
Note:
- Accessible materials should be tested.
- For component test together with CPSIA, composite up to 3 like
materials is allowed, transfer the CPSIA result here for compliance.
Product shall not exceed 75 ppm (0.0075%) total cadmium
content.
Note:
-Accessible materials should be tested.
-Actual testing will be conducted on all substrates, plasticizer print
and scrapable surface coatings.
-Composite testing of up to 3 components
-Textile & natural material are exempt from testing.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
31
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Jewelry & Hair Accessories (continued)
PROTOCOL-018 Components shall comply with the following limits (a) and (b):
a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%)
total lead content.
b. Substrates shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead
content.
Total Lead Content in Jewelry
Alameda Superior
Court, RG 10-545680
and RG 10-545687 /
EPA 3050B (modified)
/ EPA 3051A
(modified) / EPA 3052
(modified)
Recommend all products shall provide documentation or material
bill for material identification.
Products must comply with the lead requirements.
Note:
- Including anklets, arm cuffs, bracelets, charms, brooches, chains,
crowns, cuff links, watches (excluding the timepiece itself if
removable), decorated hair accessories, earrings, necklaces, pins,
rings; similar clothing or shoe ornaments which are detachable;
and body piercing jewelry or any bead, chain, link, pendant, or
other component of such an ornament.
- Accessible materials should be tested.
- For component test together with CPSIA, composite up to 3
colors / like materials (except metals) is allowed, transfer the
CPSIA result here for compliance
- Non-suspect materials, except leather, as defined by the
Consumer Products Safety Commission in 16 CFR 1500.91 (d) and
(e) will not be tested. Vendor is responsible for compliance of
these materials.
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
32
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
ADULT CHECK LIST
WovenFabric
Testing
KnitFabric
Testing
WovenGarment
Testing
KnitGarment
Testing
Intimate
Apparel &
Sleepwear
Swimwear,
Cover-ups
Sweaters
Denim
Leather &
Suede
Fiber Content (all blends)
(for garments, only perform if not done
on fabric stage)
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
Weight– all colors
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
Dimensional Stability to Home
Laundering (3x) or Dimensional
Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
Appearance Evaluation after Home
Laundering/Dry-cleaning– all colors
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
Test Parameter
Thread Count
Yarn Size
Skewness in Fabric/Garment Twist
●
Tensile Strength
●
●
Tear Strength
●
●
Bursting Strength
●
Seam Strength/Seam Slippage
●
Seam Stretchability
Stretch & recovery
#
●
●
●
●
●
#
#
Hook & eye Tension
#
pH
●
#
#
Spray Test
#
#
Drying Rate
#
#
#
Vertical Wicking
#
#
#
Air Permeability
#
Colorfastness to Home Laundering
(3x) – all colors
●
●
●
●

●
●
●
#
Water Resistance
●
●
●
●
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
33
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Test Parameter
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning (1cycle)
– all colors (if dry clean)
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
WovenFabric
Testing
KnitFabric
Testing
WovenGarment
Testing
KnitGarment
Testing
Intimate
Apparel &
Sleepwear
Swimwear,
Cover-ups
Sweaters
Denim
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
#
#
●
●
●
●
Colorfastness to Light (swimwear only)
– all colors
●
Colorfastness to Chlorine & NonChlorine Bleach – all colors
●
Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear
only) – all colors
●
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool
Water – all colors (swimwear only)
●
Colorfastness to Perspiration (Linings
Only)
# ●
#
#
#
●
●
●
●
●
●
Strap Attachment Strength
●
ICI Pilling
●
Zipper Identification
●
●


●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
General Wearing Apparel Flammability
(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors
●
●
Total Lead Content in Paint / Surface
Coatings – all colors
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
Total Lead Content in Substrate
Material– all colors
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
Formaldehyde
+Doc Review for Species
●
●
●
Burnt Gas
Leather &
Suede
●
#
#
●
●
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
34
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
ADULT ADDITIONAL COLOR CHECKLIST
Test Parameter
Fabric
Garment
Sweaters
Denim
Swimwear
Weight– all colors
●
●
●
●
●
General Wearing Apparel Flammability
(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors
●
●
●
●
Dimensional Stability to Home
Laundering (3x) or Dimensional
Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
●
●
●
Appearance Evaluation after Home
Laundering/Dry-cleaning– all colors
●
●
Colorfastness to Home Laundering
(3x) – all colors
●
Socks
Scarves
●
●
●
●
● ●
●
●
● ●
●
●
●
● ●
●
●
●
● Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
●
●
●
●
●
Colorfastness to Chlorine & NonChlorine Bleach – all colors
●
●
●
●
● Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning (1cycle)
– all colors (if dry clean)
pH
●
●
●
●
●
Colorfastness to Light (swimwear only)
– all colors
#
Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear
only) – all colors
# ●
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool
Water – all colors (swimwear only)
# ●
●
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
35
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
ADULT ACCESSORIES CHECK LIST
Socks, Tights,
Legwarmers,
Armwarmers
Scarves,
Hats, Gloves,
Cold Weather
Scarves
Fiber Content (all blends)
●
●
Dimensional Stability to Home
Laundering (3x) all colors
●
●
Appearance Evaluation after Home
Laundering– all colors
●
●
Vertical Wicking
#
Test Parameter
Colorfastness to Home Laundering
(3x) – all colors
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
Belts,
Travel
Bags,
Handba
gs
Footwear
●
●
Bath, Body
&
Cosmetics
Candles &
Candle Holders
●
●
●
●
Heel Attachment
●
Heel Impact
●
●
Flex Cracking
●
Sole Bond Peeling
●
Strap/Buckle Attachment
●
Ornament Attachment
●
Slip Resistance
●
Strap Pull Out
●
●
Impact Resistance
●
Sharp Points / Edges
●
Zipper Strength
●
Labeling
Sunglasses
●
Strap Attachment Strength
Construction Quality Assessment
Jewelry,
Hair
Accessories
●
Colorfastness to Chlorine & NonChlorine Bleach – all colors
Toplift-Heel Strength
Zippers
Special Markings
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
36
Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual
Version 2.0 March 2014
Belts,
Travel
Bags,
Handba
gs
Footwear
Zippers
Jewelry,
Hair
Accessories
#
#
#
# #
#
#
#
# #
Socks, Tights,
Legwarmers,
Armwarmers
Scarves,
Hats, Gloves,
Cold Weather
Scarves
General Wearing Apparel Flammability
(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors
●
●
Total Lead Content in Paint / Surface
Coatings – all colors
#
Total Lead Content in Substrate
Material– all colors
#
Test Parameter
Cadmium content
Phthalates
Sunglasses
Bath, Body
&
Cosmetics
Candles &
Candle Holders
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
Nickel
#
#
Mercury
#
Total Heavy Metals in Cosmetics
#
Total Lead in Cosmetics
#
Candle FPLA
●
Consumer Chemicals & Container
Regulations
●
COO
●
Candle Holder Flammability
●
Flammability of Solids
●
Safety Requirements for Stability
●
Lead Content in Glass, Metal Tea Light
Votive, Candle Holders & Home
Decorative Products
#
Total Lead Content in Candle
#
Lead in Metal Wick
#
Toxicological Risk Assessment
#
● = test is required
#= as applicable
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors
for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the
information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.