FEMININE CLOTHING
CONSTRUCTION DESIGN
(Luo
Xianqun)
Unit 1. Base of General Feminine Clothing
Construction
Unit 2.
Further Adaptations of
General Feminine Clothing Construction
Design
Unit 3. Cutting and Wearing of National
Costume
Unit 1. Base of General Feminine Clothing
Construction
1.1 The Basic Bodice Blocks (2,3 kinds of
Drafting ways)
1.2 Pattern of Feminine Clothing from Good
Brand
1.3 Comparison Between Trousers and Jeans
Cutting
1.1 The
Basic
Bodice
Blocks (2,
3 kinds of
cutting
ways)
→Dialectic.
→Get down
to the cutting
ways
of
general
blocks.
→Ease (feel
close
and
easy fitting
clothing
against one’s
body).
1.1.1 Bunka Prototype
⑴ Drafting of A Bodice Block
a. The nape to waist and the bust girth
b. The S.N.P to the breast and the x- back, x-chest
？ S.N.P
breast B/5.
to
？ X-chest, xback,
scye,
from
body’
measurements.
17.8
16.6
？
Relationship
between
back and
shoulder.
c. The front and the back and the neck and the
shoulder slope, shoulder width
?
Chinese
houcuo is
2.4-
less than
1.5cm.
?
The
back
opening
is wider
than the
front
opening.
6.9
7.1
18° 22°
1.8
2.6
(? 1/4+0.7)
7.4
？ Effect
of dart
laid
in
different
positions.
？
Calculation of
dart
width.
?
Relationship
between
the bust
girth and
the
breast.
d. The back dart on the shoulder line and the breast
dart on the armhole
1.51.8
8
10
18.3°
9
[Discussion 1]
Subject:
Relationship
between the
bust girth and
the breast.
⑴The Photographs Show the Scanning Women
Bodies by SYMCAD
→ The breast is
comparatively
flatter when the
bust girth is about
84 cm.
→ The breast is
comparatively
higher when the
bust girth is about
83 cm.
Bust girth 84 cm
Bust girth 83 cm
⑵ Scatter Graph and Correlation of the
Difference and the Bust Girth
A scatter graph shows the relationship between two
quantities.
If two quantities are closely related, the points of their
scatter graph will lie roughly along a straight line. and
changes in one are accompanied by changes in the other.
The differences (Difference = Outline measurement – Linear
measurement) and the bust girths of 20 persons measured by
body scanner [TC]2 are recorded in the table below.
83.33
0.52
89.78
3.34
69.67
0.14
77.60
3.34
84.24
3.22
89.85
3.64
84.07
0.62
79.96
1.96
87.69
1.9
82.41
2.45
87.52
2.96
82.83
3.09
87.19
2.85
82.63
3.12
85.41
4.45
94.02
3.94
81.59
2.75
103.86
6.94
83.83
1.86
91.13
3.85
(The interviewees are chosen in an unbiased way).
(Contd)
These values can
be plotted as
points to make
the scatter graph
shown opposite.
Weak, positive correlation: The points are not very close to the line of best fit. This graph
shows not that, the greater a person’ bust girth, the greater their breast high. And that span
of the person’s differences are large, as graph above, the difference is 0.4, 1, 1.5, 2.5, 4 cm
and more when bust girth are about 84 cm. And the majority of persons are in middle size.
e. The armhole and the darts on the waist line
→ Consult about
the classic waist
shaping in the
forepart.
→69+6=75,
37.5.
→83+12=95,
47.5.
→47.5-37.5=10.
Brief
Summary
6.9
2
→First of
8
2.4
1.5, 1.8
18°
12.3+1.8
22°
20.5
8
11
17.8
10
21.5
all learn
these
numerical
values by
heart.
7.1
7.4
2.9
16.6
2.6,. 5.8
2.6
20.6
12.3
18.3°
2.3
9
10.5, 17.5
38.5
1.4/2
1.8
3.5
1.1
1.5,1.5
1.4
47.5
(Contd)
→1st, center piece of upper
part on front panel.
→2nd, side piece of upper
part on front panel.
→3rd,center piece of lower
part on front panel.
→4th, side piece of lower
part on front panel.
→5th, center piece of upper
part on back panel.
→6th, side piece of upper
Part on back panel.
→7th, center piece of lower
part on back panel.
→8th, side piece of lower
Part on back panel.
→9th, underarm piece
close to front part.
→10th, underarm piece
close to back part.
5th
6th
7th
8th
10th 9th
2nd
1st
4th
3rd
(Contd)
→Place a armhole depth line
around one’s body.
A
→ Measure from C to A for the
armhole depth on the front.
→ Measure from B to A for the
armhole depth on the back.
→ Measure from C to E or G, H
for the length of the second half
on the front.
→ Measure from B to D or F for
the length of the second half on
the back.
C
B
J
D F
H
I
G
E
(Contd)
→CA minus JA is l1,
which is a quasi dart on
the side piece of upper
part of front panel.
→CE (or CG, CH )
minus JI is l2 , which is a
quasi dart on the side
piece of lower part of
front panel.
l3
l1
→BA minus JA is l3 ,
which is a quasi dart on
the side piece of upper
part of back panel.
→BD (or BF ) minus JI
is l4 , which is a quasi
dart on the side piece of
lower part of back
panel.
l2
l4
→Find out these materials
about sleeve cutting:
1.
Shanghai
Garment
Headgear
and
Footwear Corporation
/Garment Cutting.
2.
Winifred
Aldrich/Metric
Pattern Cutting.
3.
Academy of Cutting
of Paris Compile
“Ways of Men’s
Clothing Cutting”,
4.
З.К.
Амирова,
О.В.Сакулина/Констр
уирование Одежды”
⑵ Drafting of One-Piece Sleeve Block
a. Relationship between the body and the sleeve
b. The y-cap (armhole depth on the sleeve )
Armhole Depth on Sleeve=5/6 of the average of
actual armhole depth in the plane. In this example,
armhole depth on sleeve is about 14.5cm.
? A sleeve must correspond
with its bodice, the close
sleeve from the close
bodice,the easy sleeve from
the easy bodice.
→ When the bodice are
postulated, the sleeve is first
considered to give a x-cap.
(Cap girth = Finished bust
girth / 3 ± a ).
c. The sleeve width and
the straight lines to draw
the cap curves
d.
Marking
points to
draw cap
curve
F.A.H /4
Point of
inflection B
Point of
inflection A
1
1
d. The outline of sleeve
head and the balance
points
Brief Summary
N
o.
→First of all
learn these
Numerical values
by heart.
01 A.H
42
02 Cap
4.5
03 A.H(F)
20.5
Section Size
Body
dimension
Note
37
5cm bigger than Scye
3.5cm bigger than A.H
04 A.H(B) 21.5
05 Cap(F)
22
1.5cm bigger than A.H(F)
06 Cap(B)
23.5
2cm bigger than A.H(B)
07 Y-cap
14.5
08 X-cap
31.5
25.5
6cm bigger than Bicep
Exercise 1 (1,2,3 required)
1. Draft a basic bodice block to a
scale of 1:1. (Preserve)
2. Measure the body of one’s own
upper part about 30 Figures.
(Preserve).
3. Try to make a sample garment.
4. Find out 3~5 materials about
bodice block cutting (British,
Russian , Singaporean and
Chinese).
5. Go to garment factory to consult
blouse cutting.
1.2 Pattern of
Feminine
Clothing from
Good brand
→As a covering,
material
has
thickness
itself.
clothing should be
longer than one’s
part covered.
→In direction of
length, it needs to
add ease, too.
?
Relationship
between the figure
and the clothing
length.
→ 38.5 it will be
39, 40, 41, even
more
after
stretching,.
1.2.1 The Tailored Jacket Pattern from Good brand.
⑴ Bodice Block of tailored Jacket
a. The clothing length and width (shoulder, bust girth,
waist girth, hip girth, chest width and back width)
3
1
b. The Parts of bodice block (shoulder slope, shoulder
→Shoulder
breadth
and
form of pattern
of western-style
cloths.
breadth, shoulder line, panel style line, scye, neckline)
→Widen breast
dart
on
the
armhole to shape
clothing
more
well-balance
→Separate into
Center
piece,
side piece, and
underarm piece
from the front
part or the back
part even if it
was one-piece
one.
8.5
→Draw the panel
(A mellifluence
figure loomed up
through the pieces).
Front:
Transfer breast dart
on armhole to side
seam.
Sketch style lines of
panels.
Close the dart on
the side seam to
open panel dart on
armhole.
Shape the panel
lines into a
mellifluence figure
from figure to
numerical value.
→Pucker 9cm dart on
the waist line. Back
part is more than 60%,
about 5.5cm, and the
front part is 3.5cm.
→Hip girth of finished
product is about 98cm
or 100cm, and hip
girth in one side of
bodice is about 2.5cm
bigger than breast
girth
of
finished
product. These are
solved in the front
part.
→The whole armhole
is a little more than
45.5cm: About 21.5cm
in the front part, and
the back armhole is
about 24cm.
⑵ Collar of tailored
Jacket ( Rever With
→Before
drafting a
collar, mark
button
position,
buttonholes,
button stand.
→ 1.5, 2,
2.5, 3.
concealed stand)
a. The working
sketch of the collar
b. The lapel and the front
part of the collar
→Rectangle l=8.5, w =8.
→Trapezium b1= 8.5,
b2=11, h= 8.
Roll line
Stand
2.5
3.5 4.5
11
Sewing Style
line
line
Fall
c. The back part of the collar
→Fall height 4.5+1
(tucked-in selvage).
→Shorten 0.6cm on the
side of roll line of the fall.
→ 9, 3 / 4, -0.2, -0.2,
-0.2; +0.4, +0.4, +0.4;
-0.6 (in three quarters
distance half neck
measurement).
(-Winifred Aldrich
\Metric pattern cutting)
d. The fall of the collar (overlap, splay or make
dart)
e. The stand of the
collar
→ Mandarin collar: Draw
rectangle, l=19, w =4. Divide
into three sections, cut out.
Then overlap 0.3, 0.3cm.
→Shorten the side of roll line
by making darts.
Patch. Closed collar
⑴
and hood
(B.Z, J.P/ Basic pattern
skills for fashion design.)
→The length of collar
outline is shorten when
shoulder points are
overlapped . Then the collar
will move upward along
neck.
→Stand height is one
quarter of collar height as
shoulder points are
overlapped approx.5cm.
5cm
→Stand height is
one third of collar
height as shoulder
points are
overlapped
approx.10cm.
⑵
10CM
→Many collar
styles can be
based on the
method.
→
Shaping
at collar as shown
below.
? fit
? figure
⑶
(A.J/ Modern pattern design)
→ Head dimension:
Head breadth approx. 15cm.
Head length approx. 18cm.
Nape to top approx. 24cm.
Head girth approx. 56cm.
⑷
→Winifred
Aldrich/ Metric
pattern cutting.
⑶ Tow-piece Sleeve block
a. x-cap, y-cap, sleeve length, cuff size, elbow line
→X-capgirth =B’/
3+1.5cm
95+2.4-1.4=96
96/3+1.5=33.5
→Draw Y-cap by
a half AH as
shown in
diagram.
15.5-
B 8.7
4
22.75+()=22.75
→F, 1/4. B, 2/3 1.5
→ Sleeve length
will be longer or
shorter than one’s
subject.
56
30
F 3.8
b. Sleeve head (A-F, F-C, C-B, B-A)
→ Armhole length
45.5cm (21.5, 24):
A-F 7.3,
F-C 14.3,
C-B 11.5,
B-A 12.6.
→ Cap 48A-F (),
F-C 14.3, (0), 15.2.
C-B 11.8 (+0.3), 12.3.
B-A 12.3, (-0.3), 13.
Brief Summary
→First of all
learn these
Numerical values
by heart.
No.
Section
Size
01
Length
-
02
Shoulder
width
38 +(1)
38
5cm wider than back width. Bust
girth/4 + 17.25.
03
Bust girth
83+12+2.4-1.4
83
Style line of panel will cut down
bust girth.
04
Waist girth
76
68
18cm smaller than bust girth of
finished product. They are used to
shape the waist, Front 40%, Back
60%.
05
Hips girth
100
90
4 cm bigger than bust girth of
finished product.
06
X-back
17.8+0.5
17
07
X-front
16.6+0.7
16.5
08
A.H
44.5
(21.5,24 )
37
09
X-Cap
33.5 (16.8)
10
Cap
48-
Body
dimension
Note
Under hip
Bust
46%.
A-F
F-C
C-B
B-A
girth of finished product
7.3
14.3
11.5
12.6
26
A-F
F-C
C-B
B-A
Straight
14.3,
11.8,
12.3,
Curve
7.3
15.2
12.3
13
Exercise 2 (1,3 required)
1. Measure detailed dimensions of each
part of feminine clothing in more
than 3 pieces whose respective sizes
are easy, close, and in-between.
2. Measure detailed dimensions of each
part of feminine clothing from good
brand.
3. Make the datasheet of dimensions
from measuring clothing (Preserve).
4. Make 2~3 types of collar, and give an
experiment report.
5. Go to garment factory to consult a
tailored jacket cutting.
1.3 Pattern
Feminine
Trousers
of
1.3.1 The Basic
Trouser Block
⑴ Figure which
links terms and
locations
？Crotch extension
？Crease line
→ Crotch depth, waist
girth.
1.5
⑵ To complete the front
sections and the back
sections
？ The line about pleat is
deflective
？ Length of arc (l－r) 2π,
h= (l2-r2)1/2,
θ =( 2 π l – 2 π r) * 360°
/2π l.
？Back crotch line is lower.
→ Figure, balance, smoothly.
1.3.2 The Jeans block (Close Fitting Trousers)
→Winifred Aldrich/ Metric Pattern cutting.
→Helen Joseph Armstrong/ Pattern making for fashion design.
→For a personal fit, the front and back crotch level should measure from 2.5 to 4cm more
than the upper thigh measurement.
→ Measure front and back crotch length, spread centre back to increase the measurement
to amount needed.
Brief Summary
→First of all
learn these
Numerical values
by heart.
No. Section
Note
01
Crotch extension
0.13, 0.14, 0.15, 0.16,
0.17, 0.18 Hip
02
Crease line
1/8 – 2.5 Hip girth of
finished product
03
Slant of back
centre line
θ =( 2 π l – 2 π r) * 360° /2π l
Exercise 3 (2,3 required)
1. Study 3～5 methods of trousers pattern
(including Chinese style pants (slacks) etc);
2. Draft pattern of feminine trouser (1:1).
3. Compare, and make a jeans (3-5 popular
brands of jeans).
4. Draft pattern about culotte, baggy pant,
high-waist pant, hip-hugger pant, jumpsuit,
leotard (1:1).
Unit 2.
Further Adaptations of General
Feminine Clothing Construction Design
2.1. A Way of Raglan Sleeve Cutting.
2.2 A Way of Gusset Cutting.
2.3 Changes of Dart and Drape.



Change of Dart
British Practice to the Drape
American Practice to the Drape
2.1 A Way of
Raglan Sleeve
Cutting
→B’/4 ±0.5
→Shape, first of
all is beautiful
2.1.1 The Back of The Raglan Sleeve
a.
b.
→(B’/3+2.5)
/2±1
→Curve of armpit
→Curve of cap
→Consider to move
center line of sleeve
cap 2cm forward in
the position of sleeve
opening
2.1.2 The Front
of The Raglan
Sleeve
？Stretching out
？An angle of
Forty five degrees
→Length
→Smooth
→Beautiful shape
Exercise 4 (1,2required)
1.Make and analyze the sample of
raglan sleeve
(1:1); and try to cut a raglan
sleeve like
the form of sleeve of westernstyle clothes.
2. Collect and summarize the
good examples
of raglan sleeve designs ( Pay
attention to aspect of dimension).
(Preserve).
3. Make 1, 2 kinds of designs (1:1),
considering raglan sleeve cutting.
2.2 A Way of
Gusset Cutting
→To enlarge the bust
and the depth of the
scye.
→X-cap (B’/3+4cm)
→Line 2, draw an
arc of radius AH line
→Cut the red line of
the gusset from the
point of Intersection
2.2.1 The Back of The Gusset
a.
b.
→ Shaping the
underarm seam
and the side
Seam after
tacking the
gusset.
→The fork
Point is about
Armpit when
Raising arm.
2.2.2 The Front of The Gusset:
？The width of
gusset can be
narrowed down, but
the gussets in the
front and in the back,
wide or narrow, all
should be equal.
a.
Exercise 5 (1,2 required)
1. Collect and summarize the
good examples of gusset
designs (Pay attention to
aspect
of
dimension).
(Preserve)
2. Make 1 ， 2 kinds of designs
(1:1), considering gusset
cutting. (Preserve)
2.3 Change of
Dart and Drape
→Self-study “Helen
Joseph Armstrong:
Pattern Making for
Fashion Design”
2.3.1 Change of Dart :
→Find out
Bernard/ Basic
pattern skills for
fashion design”
and Martin
Shoben and Janet
Ward/Pattern
Cutting and
Making up”
2.3.2 Draped Collar
(1) British practice to the draped collar
(2) American Practice to the Drape
→Collar width
exceeds 16cm*2
→Collar width
exceeds 12cm*2
Exercise 6 (1,2 required)
1. Collect and summarize the
good examples of designs of
drape and change of dart
(Pay attention to aspect of
dimension). ( Preserve)
2. Design and make 1~2 bodices
with draped collar. (Preserve)
Unit 3. National costume
3.1. Chinese-style Clothing Construction Design.

Duijin Blouse

Dajin Qipao

Pants
3.2. Foreign Costume (Discussion).

Wrapped Clothing (Sari, Assam ,Quechquemitl. )

Cylinder Form ( Basic Block of Kimono)

Pant Garment (Turkish Slacks)
3.1. Chinesestyle Clothing
Construction
Design
→Find out
Shanghai Garment
Headgear &
Footwear
Corporation/
Collection of
Garment Cutting
of Shanghai.
3.1.1 Chinese Blouse of Duijin
⑴ Cut button stand for buttonhole
a.
b.
→Find out Liu
Ruizhen/How
toTailor Chinese’
Qipao.
→Find out Yang
Mingshan:/
Chinese
Clothing.
( Duijin, Dajin, Wajin, Xiaojin,, Shangyao, Zhongyao, Taijianwan, Chushou, Guajian Taijian,
Xiabai, Kailing, Dajinzui, Houcuo, Yakou, Lingkoukou, Yexiakou, Yaokou, Chakou, Zoushuixian,
Pingxiu,Erkou )
c.
d.
→Draw out the
bottom until it
measured more
than 1 cm for
Remedying the
centre parts
of the front.
⑵ Draft and Cut the
Slopers
→The allowance is about
0.7 in the neck loop.
→The allowance is about
0.33 + 0.17Yakaou (≈0.5)
in the open front
→Neck depth:
36.5 /5+17=9 (including
Houcuo 0.7cm.)
→Neck width=Depth - 3.
⑵ Menjin and
Lijin,
Armhole
depth
→23.5, it will be
bigger, after the
armpit of the Chinese
blouse is shaped.
→Patch a facing to
the open front on the
side of Buttonhole
(Menjin).
→Patch a button
stand and a facing (all
in one piece material)
to the open front on
the side of Button
(Lijin).
6
9
7
8
3.1.2 Qipao of Chinese Opening (Wajin)
⑴ Making a Chinese opening (Wajin):
a.
Length + Hem depth 112 + 2.7
2.7
23.5
9
6
0.7
→Zhikai ling 36.5/5 + 1.7.
→Hengkailing 3cm smaller than Zhikailing.
b.
→Then the back
Also is laid to
Overlap about
1cm like the front
Overlap 1cm or more
→Cut along red
line.
→Pucker a dart
about 1cm to draw
up Dajin on the
front neck.
→
Outspread
about 0.7cm to
extend Xiaojin on
the front neck.
c.
⑵ Draft and Cut the Slopers:
a.
Square out and down from the new center
line (A converse herringbone).
Trend line of Broadwise on
The Front
3.1.3 Chinese Style Pants
？Additional ease: about 35cm in waist
or about 15cm in hip.
→(26+26+15+4)-4=67cm
Exercise 7 (1,3 required)
1. Try to make a Chinese blouse
and pants with hand stitching.
2. Write a record of Chineseclothing
(Emphasize
particularly on problem of
dimension). (Preserve)
3. Go to factory to consult cutting
and making of the Chinesestyle clothing. (Preserve)
3.2. Foreign
3.2.1 Wrapped Clothing
Costume
3.2.1.1 Sari (No-seam clothing)
3.2.1.1.1 Under-wear (First put on a fitting choli and
→ Tianzhong
Qiandai/ National
Costumes in The
World.
a underskirt)
⑴ Choli
3.2.1.1.2 Cutting and Wearing of Sari
a.
→Round from right
to right and tuck the
waist of sari into the
under skirt.
b.
→Round again
c.
→Left: draw apart
the cloth to make
pleats.
→Right: Gather the
end of the cloth with
accordion pleats or
other one.
→Put the puckered end of the cloth up the left
shoulder from right underarm.
→Make vertical pleats (a pleat is about 10cm) on
the part of the cloth left out, and tuck them into
the front of the waist beautifully.
→Down to the knee.
→ One ,round.
→ Two, stretch.
→ Three, gather and put up on shoulder.
→ Four, withdraw to abdomen.
→As a headdress, as a
scarf, and could be worn in different ways
following one’s inclinations and
demands.
d.
3.2.1.2 Assam
a.
→Two pieces of
materials
(Sewing)
→Barefoot.
generally
→Seize A and B
then tie them on
left side of front
b.
A
B
3.2.2 Opening Hole
3.2.2.1 Quechquemitl (Roundel shoulder)
a.
→Neck
opening,
(horizontal
neckline)
28+28.
→Clothing
Length, 45
(around the
waist).
→ Hem,
about 180.
b.
3.2.3 Cylinder Form
3.2.3.1 Kimono (Sketch pattern)
a.
→Widesleeve
Japanese
robe
is
fastened at
waist with a
wide sash.
3.2.4 Pant Garment
3.2.4.1 A Turkish Slacks
→ A fabric
consumption,
100×4 when width
is 2 chi and 1cun..
Exercise 8 (1,3 required)
1. Imitate and make 3~5 kinds of
national costumes (made of cloth
or paper; pay attention to the
way of dressing).
2. Collect 1~2 sets of national
costumes. (Preserve)
3. Find out historical materials about
cutting and making of the classical
national costumes. (Preserve).