The Final Frontier + Exploration Playlist By: Mary Harmer Rise:EDDIE VEDDER Deep Water:THE MIDDLE EAST Road Trippin:THE RED HOT CHILLI PEPPERS Om Nashi Me:EDWARD SHARPE AND THE MAGNETIC ZEROES Free:RUDIMENTAL Wakin’on a Pretty Daze: KURT VILE Space Oddity:DAVID BOWIE Supersymmetry:ARCADE FIRE Octopus’ Garden:THE BEATLES Ocean:JOHN BUTLER I Feel Just Like a Child: DEVENDRA BANHART Trav’lin Along:BILLIE HOLIDAY The Times They Are a Changing: BOB DYLAN Rocket Man: ELTON JOHN Freedom: EMMA LOUISE What the Water Gave Me: FLORENCE AND THE MACHINE Don’t Deny Your Heart:HOT CHIP The Passenger:IGGY POP Forest Eyes:JINJA SAFARI You Pretty Thing:LISA MITCHELL What a Wonderful World: LOUIS ARMSTRONG Wonder Years:REAL ESTATE To Just Grow Away: THE TALLEST MAN ON EARTH Island Walking:TAME IMPALA Keep on Running:ANDY BULL EDITOR Frances Vinall ART DIRECTION & DESIGN Jessica Bong MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sarah Gross CONTRIBUTORS Phirin Ha Sinead Halliday Anna Harcourt Mary Harmer Robert Shumoail-Albazi William Field-Papuga Emiily Nielsen Aleczander Gamboa Julia McConnochie Michelle Shelly CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Oleisha Proksa Carrmen Yew Sarah Fern Jessica Margot Stephanie Zhu Hayley Morris Zoe Kimpton Zach Beltsos-Russo Julia Pillai Hayley Morris Lachlan Siu Mill Thompson Sam Phillips Georgia Johnson Briese PUBLISHER MONSU Caulfield PRINTING Bambra Press www.bambrapress.com.au ADVERTISE IN ESPERANTO [email protected] CONTACT Esperanto Student Magazine Lvl 2, Bldg S, 2 Princess Avenue, Caulfield, Vic, 3125 03 9903 1292 esperantomagazine.com facebook.com/esperantomagazine LEGAL Esperanto Magazine is published by MONSU Caulfield. Views expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of MONSU Caulfield, the editorial panel, the publisher, editor or any other person associated with Esperanto. Esperanto: The Final Frontier Message from Esperanto This is our broadest theme of the year. It was an experiment in interpretation: we wanted to see what our brilliant contributors could come up with when we gave them something as open as ‘exploration.’ They didn’t disappoint. We have a plenty of stories about personal exploration. Aleczander Gamboa discovered that Grindr isn’t just for sex—it can also be a salve for loneliness. Renee Newbury transitioned from male to female while she was at university, and she told Mary Harmer all about it. Michelle Shelley, on the other hand, found herself confronted when she visited asylum seekers stuck in indefinite detention. So after all this—what is exploration? Exploration is about doing something new. It’s about getting out of your comfort zone, and investigating what’s out there. As Sinead Halliday and Anna Harcourt discovered, there’s nothing like a change to trigger falling in love, or having some awesome sexcapades. It’s about growth: opening your mind, and letting new experiences in. We learnt a lot putting together this issue. We hope you do too when you read it. Love, Frances, Jess and Sarah Fellow wanderlusters Issue Three: Page 3 Then of course, there’s exploring the physical world. Whether that be local— think Phirin Ha’s guide to urban exploring in Melbourne— or global—like Vitaly Demidov’s experience climbing 27 mountains in 3 months—we hope we’ve inspired you to get out there and have an adventure. Issue Three: Page 4 Dear Readers, We know what it’s like to be a Uni Student. Uni Life is hard work!! That’s why the team at Down Under Day Tours have joined forces with Esperanto Magazine because we want to make sure you’re rewarding yourself. All work and no play isn’t fun! If you have the study part covered, we have the fun covered. How does a Mt. Buller snow adventure sound? A trip down the iconic Great Ocean Road? Ride the Puffing Billy? Enjoy a glass (or bottle) of wine in The Yarra Valley? Or get up close and personal with some adorable Penguins at Phillip Island? We have something you’ll love, at a price you’ll love too! What are you waiting for?! Grab your mates and go on an adventure this weekend. Don’t forget to mention “ESPERANTO” when booking to claim your special Discount! Don’t miss out, book today. Your fun specialists, Down Under Day Tours Melbourne 24HR RESERVATIONS downunderdaytours.com.au 6 9 10 Ain’t No Mountain High Enough war & peace Zach Vitaly Demidov climbed 27 mountains in three months. He tells Frances Vinall about his crazy experience Robert Shamoail-Albazi gives us a quick run down of the current exhibition happening at the MUMA Gallery We have a quick chat with artist and designer Zach Belstos-Russo about his odd yet beautiful creations 14 16 Satellites and the Search for El Dorado The Surprising Humanity of Grindr eat, build, love William Field-Papuga explains how modern explorers harness technology to search for ancient civilisations The app we only think of as sexual led Aleczander Gamboa to a lifelong friend Emily Neilsen never thought she’d be able to build a house, until she did. In France. 18 24 26 Wasted Wanderers Detention Young, Wild, Free Zoe Kimpton captures a group of modern day explorers in their quirky, off beat style. Illustrated by Hayley Morris Michelle Shelly reflects on visiting asylum seekers in detention Sinead Halliday and Anna Harcourt investigate why it’s so much easier to throw it all away for love (or sex) when we aren’t at home 30 34 38 Exploring Gender: What it’s like to transition from male to female Esperanto’s Guide to Urban Exploring impressions of an Asian Tiger Renee Newbury talks to Mary Harmer about being transgender at university Everything you need to know about Melbourne’s strange, beautiful abandoned sites Julia McConnichie has fallen in love with her idiosyncratic life on exchange in Malaysia Issue Three: Page 5 12 Esperanto: The Final Frontier CONT ENTS AIN’T NO MOUNTAIN HIGH ENOUGH Issue Three: Page 6 Words Frances Vinall Photography Vitaly Demidov & Jessica Bong as a person so much. It increases your experience of life so much. I realised, I can’t allow myself to not do it. I have to do it.” Esperanto: The Final Frontier Water collected from each of the 27 peaks Prior to his three-month mountain climbing expedition, Vitaly was occupied with the Swedish army. The military took him to several exotic places, where he had the opportunity to climb mountains in Egypt and Sicily. His curiosity whetted, he began researching, and soon heard about groups of thrill-seekers who made a mission of climbing ‘the Crown of Europe,’ the continents highest points. “Why couldn’t I do that?” he asked himself. A few weeks later he was in the Czech Republic, shivering his way up the first peak of his journey. “The first week felt like ten years, there was so much to experience,” he says. In that time alone, he reached the summits of the highest mountains in the Czech Republic, Poland, and Slovakia. The next week it was Hungary, Ukraine, and Moldova. He’s not done yet, either—out of the 48 mountains in Europe he’s done just over half. Not a bad accomplishment for three months; but he’s quick to assure, he’ll be back. There’s something about mountains that just draws him in. “Every single mountain is very different, it’s unique in a number of ways. The nature is different; vegetation, all of the flora and fauna, the animals, the weather, the conditions, it all changes so much,” he describes. “It changes the experience so much. You can’t compare them. Every time you go up there are different obstacles. The diversity of the whole thing, I didn’t realise how different they all are.” “You think, is this really worth nearly dying for? But then I realised yes, it is.” Issue Three: Page 7 It’s late afternoon on the slopes leading to Grossglockner, the tallest peak in the Austrian Alps. Vitaly Demidov, a 24—yearold adrenalin junkie from Russia-via-Sweden, is not dressed for a snowstorm. He’s fitted out in shorts, thin rain pants, a shirt made of merino wool, and a jacket. He’s also soaking wet; it’s been raining all day. He’s woefully underprepared for the thick flurry of snow, icy winds, and increasing blackness that is descending on the mountain. “I have never experienced that darkness before,” Vitaly remembers, warm and dry months later in a Perth apartment. “It was complete darkness. I thought I would die within the next hour.” “I couldn’t walk anymore. I had to run because I was freezing to death. I stopped once to adjust my gear, and I started shaking so much. I realised that if I stayed standing here, my muscles would completely seize up.” Even after the snow turned back to rain, conditions don’t improve much for Vitaly on the mountainside. Thick clouds block the moonlight, and a new layer of crisp whiteness covers the bright markings that usually indicate safe paths. He is left to wander blindly around the slopes, trying to stay warm. “Eventually I realised I was walking down the mountain, not up. It was low enough for trees to grow,” he recalls. “I was so happy, I was laughing my ass off! I was so happy that I actually survived this shit.” “When I got back the woman who’d seen me off the day before started yelling, ‘Oh my god, oh my god, where have you been?! I called the police, I called the mountain guide, I can’t believe you survived!’” He laughs fondly at her exhortations. For a lot of people, such an experience would be the most exhilarating they’d ever had. Vitaly, on the other hand, is someone who decided to climb 27 mountains in 3 months on a whim. Each was the highest peak in a different European country, where he collected a small jar of water as a souvenir of every achievement. “I didn’t do any training before I started doing this,” he explains. “I just packed my backpack, got all my gear, picked a flight, and started climbing.” “When I was travelling, everybody was telling me that the stuff I’m doing is crazy, that I’m crazy, that it’s impossible, and that I would get myself killed. The funny part is that when I was travelling I had absolutely no insurance whatsoever. Now, looking back at all the times I almost died, how close to death I was…you do realise how stupid what you’re doing is, but it advances you MONASH UNIVERSITY MUSEUM OF ART PRESENTS CONCRETE Concrete: a solid state, a construction material, something known or true. 3 may - 5 july 2014 Laurence Aberhart Jananne al-Ani Kader Attia Saskia Doherty Fabien Giraud & Raphaël Siboni Igor Grubic Carlos Irijalba Nicholas Mangan Rä di Martino Ricky MaYnard Callum Morton Tom Nicholson Jamie North Justin Trendall James tylor Curator: Geraldine kirrihi Barlow Ground Floor, Building F Monash University, Caulfield Campus 900 Dandenong Road Caulfield East VIC 3145 Australia www.monash.edu.au/muma Telephone +61 3 9905 4217 [email protected] Tues – Fri 10am – 5pm; Sat 12 – 5pm Igor Grubic Monument (work in progress) 2014 video still courtesy of the artist Esperanto: The Final Frontier WAR & PEACE The current exhibition Concrete at the Monash University Museum of Art brings together the work of 16 local and international artists (including Jananne al-Ani, Callum Morton, Kader Attia, Ricky Maynard, Saskia Doherty and Spanish artist Carlos Irijalba). It explores themes of history, materiality and the monument. The exhibition presents the residual effects of conflict, trauma and loss throughout various landscapes, and coincides with the anniversary of World War I. Some works such as Jamie North’s slag sculptures or Callum Morton’s Monument #26: Settlement engage with ideas of material and form, while other artists such Q as Ricky Maynard or Jananne al-Ani portray political landscapes in stages of (or with implications of) post-trauma. Concrete asks the viewer to consider the role of materials in the construction of memories and, as the exhibition’s curator Geraldine Kirrihi Barlow writes ‘to make our own assessment of the patterns and expressions of cultural value embedded in built and monumental form.’ I’d like to begin by discussing your new film work Monument. A catalogue for the exhibition describes the film as a ‘series of meditative portraits of memorials [in Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina] built by the former Yugoslav state.’ In your previous works such as Black Peristyle (1998), 366 Liberation Rituals (2008) and Zero Balkan Beat (2012) you use public actions or ‘happenings’ to express politically charged statements. How do you feel the reflective and meditative qualities in Monument compare to these arguably, more candid styles of representation? Also, I was wondering how the sites you chose informed the style and pace of the film. A If I understood well, your question talks about different approaches to different exhibiting spaces with a different public. The project 366 Liberation Rituals consisted of lots of minimalistic (micro-political) interventions in public spaces which I did on an everyday basis during the whole of 2008 and part of 2009. When working in a public space I’m always thinking how to present an idea to a wide range of people as simply as possible, so that everyone can understand. Similar to the minimalist style in agitprop campaigns, when transmitting certain messages I try to make them visually well-designed. I create simple and clear ideas, like ideograms, because in a public area you do not have time for a lot of explaining. People are preoccupied with completing everyday goals, and you’ve got to somehow get their attention. to stop them and have them receive the message, to involve them. But when Issue Three: Page 9 Within the exhibition is a new film work (in progress) by Croatian artist Igor Grubic titled Monument. Mesmerising and poetic, Monument details nine monuments built in former Yugoslav states during World War II, to memorialise conflicts and reflect an anti-fascist history. Grubic talked to Robert Shumoail-Albazi about some of the themes and intentions behind this new work, and some of his earlier pieces. This interview will be made available in full on both the MUMA and Esperanto websites I work on film I’m aware that the public will be the ones intentionally coming to see the exhibition or some film festival and that they will have a different kind of attention. I started to work on this movie Monument keeping in mind the fact that during the war in Croatia in the nineties there were 3000 antifascist monuments destroyed. The first idea was to film an activist style documentary with lots of interviews about this problem. Later I changed the scenario when I faced the monuments again (some of which I hadn’t seen since the eighties) and decided to let them speak their own story about their metaphysical life. All of these monuments are placed in nature and when you are near them you can feel peace; have an experience like you are metaphorically facing the Monolith in Kubrick’s: Odyssey. I was also in a period of my life when I started to focus more intensively on meditation practice to get back into my centre. Through filming in a poetical and experimental way, I have tried to create existential, even spiritual resonance to the political issue....I really tried to film these portraits of several abstract, antifascist monuments in a way that they would cross reference with the nature context and serve to create poetic, visual metaphors. 6 Words Robert ShumoailAlbazi Issue Three: Page 10 ZACH 1. State your full name please. Zach Beltsos-Russo What is one thing you’d never leave the house without. Sketchbook What are you studying at Monash? I’m currently in second year communication design How long have you been practicing art? My parents were pretty big on self directed learning when I was growing up, so that started a general interest in art. I enrolled myself in drawing classes at Rings Road Art Studio during high school, which is when I started taking it pretty seriously. State your medium of choice. It really depends on what’s appropriate for the subject. There’s no real medium of choice, I like to explore and see what I can do with different media. Generally things start out as thumbnail sketches with a grey lead or pen, but not always. What inspires you? Observation is the starting point for most of the things I make. I draw a lot from what I see or experience, and I generally try and turn that into something else. I’m really interested in art history as well, and this almost always forms the grounding for what I make. What is your art an exploration of? There’s no real main goal it’s just how I respond to what’s in front of me, so its always changing. In everything though, I try and establish a relationship between things, whether that be in the subject, or in the elements that compose the image. Thanks Zach No Worries! Esperanto: The Final Frontier Issue Three: Page 11 2. 3. 4. 1. 2. 3. 4. Maggot Pie Decomposition Heads YEAH Grandpa Issue Three: Page 12 SATELLITES AND THE SEARCH FOR EL DORADO Words William Field-Papuga Illus. Sarah Fern (@s_ferny) El Dorado literally means ‘The gilded one.’ It was the name Spanish conquistadores gave to the chief of a mysterious tribe living deep within the Amazon—a tribe so wealthy this chief would powder himself with gold every day, only to wash it off in a sacred lake each night. When the story of the chief reached Europe in the 16th century, it took on a life of its own. It changed from a man to a city, a place where gold was so plentiful it no longer had intrinsic value. Countless expedition teams were sent on fruitless searches scouring the rainforests for the elusive lost city. Europeans were so entranced by the myth that El Dorado became a common feature on many maps of the new world. The secrets contained in the dense Central and South American jungles have fascinated the outside population for centuries, offering a new world of discovery. The thrill of finding the ruins of a once thriving civilization, lying in wait beneath over a millennia of jungle growth, is now captivating the imaginations of today’s generation of explorers. “The Aztecs thrived with a sophisticated economic and cultural ethic that rivalled some of the leading cities of Europe at the time,” says Dr Patrick Greene, CEO of Museum Victoria, where there is presently an exhibit on the Americas’ ancient civilisations. Today is the greatest age of exploration in these still under-investigated areas of the globe, as new sites are being found at an unprecedented rate. Archaeologists estimate that as much as 90% of Latin America’s ancient civilisations are still to be uncovered. Esperanto: The Final Frontier Archaeologists estimate that as much as 90% of Latin America’s ancient civilisations are still to be uncovered. Issue Three: Page 13 “[The Aztec’s culture] developed almost in parallel with our own,” Dr Greene explains. This included a barbaric all-encompassing religion, which demanded the annual sacrifice of thousands, including children, in order for the sun to rise every morning. In what resembles the plot of an Indiana Jones film, entire Mayan cities—a civilisation that pre-dated the Aztecs —were discovered during the early 2000s, in an uncharted region of Northern Guatemala. They represented one of the most ground-breaking archaeological finds in Central America. These sites had been concealed by their remoteness for centuries, requiring explorers to hike for days on end, carving a path though the overgrowth with machetes to reach them. They are also completely covered by jungle so dense that visibility is limited to 10 feet in some places. Archaeologists could pass through these cities once home to thousands, with intricate roads and stone monuments, without realizing it. They would have remained hidden without revolutionary new technology from orbiting NASA satellites. This futuristic technology is used by an emerging profession of ‘space’ archaeologists, showing what would otherwise be invisible to the human eye. By a process known as ‘remote sensing’, vegetation which has grown over human settlements can be distinguished from other forest growth. This is done via infrared imaging, which detects minute differences between the two types of vegetation in temperature and chemical composition. It is thought that these differences originate from the farming and building products, such as lime plaster, used by the Mayans. Over time this changed the composition of the soil and, in turn, that of the jungle which reclaimed the sites. This ingenious method has been used to reveal an ancient world of roads, canals, and dams lying beneath the forest floor. In an area where the population density in ancient times rivalled that of modern China, it has huge potential to unearth countless other sites. It could be regarded as poetic that Latin American societies, which so revered the sky as the realm of the overseeing gods, are now being uncovered by a modern day celestial observer. The legendary El Dorado, tirelessly sought after by Europeans 300 years ago, might now only exist as a metaphor of something unobtainable. Yet the lands of South and Central America still represent fertile ground for swash buckling explorers of the 21st century. Issue Three: Page 14 You meet the most intriguing people on Grindr. For those unaware of its existence, let me explain what Grindr is first. A social networking app specifically targeted towards gay men, it works by tracking down other gay men in your area. It’s a standard online dating app—though the word ‘dating’ should be used loosely, considering the vast majority of gay guys (including myself at times) have used the app to either: a. Find a regular fuck buddy or b. Seek sexy strangers (who you will probably never see again) for a quick romp. In other words, it’s an app for horny gay men to meet so they can then do horny gay things to each other to satiate their ongoing gay horniness. Or at least, that’s what I thought, until I met Nick*. Issue Three: Page 15 weren’t as strong as they are now, so helicopters were even above us broadcasting it live. I was outraged. It’s like the media had no sense of privacy or humanity during a time where I was meant to grieve.” By that last sentence, his shoulders had drastically slumped in sadness. I stared at him, and I was immediately hypnotised by the mixture of fire and fury his eyes revealed as he recalled the awful memory. He continued, “Things obviously got worse, I was betrayed by my sister, someone who I thought would always be there for me. She withdrew our family’s entire fortune and ran away with it. I remember receiving the bank statement saying I had no money left, and with no money I couldn’t pay for anything. Everything was taken away from me— the house, the car, the horses—I was left with nothing, and the only sibling I had left abandoned me to continue living a lavish lifestyle. That’s something I can never forgive.” he said. Penniless and homeless, he did the only thing he could do: start from the very bottom. Seeking refuge from his friends, he tirelessly worked several different jobs before climbing the ranks in the car auctioning business. The rest was history, with fate having brought us together as we continued to talk about our lives. He admitted that he used Grindr because he felt lonely, hoping to seek others to have meaningful conversations with rather than casual sex. He had been unsuccessful many times. Meeting Nick changed my entire perspective about Grindr, but in saying that I would never have known him had I not explored the app in the first place. I was actually the first person he told in detail about his past, as it had been dwelling on him and he wanted to vent about it. Like me, he too took a leap of faith when he messaged me. Clearly it was a good decision, since we’re now great friends. So to any guy who thinks Grindr is beneath them—take a chance and explore a little. You never know what you’ll get or who you’ll meet. Whether it is a new friend or an impressive collection of dick pictures sent from strangers, you’ll be gaining a reward either way. *Name changed for privacy reasons Esperanto: The Final Frontier Out of sheer boredom with no plans for the weekend, I was traversing through numerous Grindr profiles one day when the notification sound alerted me to a new message. “Hi, how are you?” How simple and succinct, I thought. A lot of other guys just send nude pictures to me. Curious, I looked at his profile. His display picture was a headless photo of a man mowing the lawn shirtless. He had a built physique, but not to a point where it became unsightly. I couldn’t stop staring at it - I was memorised. However when I looked at how old he was I became a little apprehensive as he was twice my age. Nevertheless, he was only asking a polite question, so it’d be rude not to reply, right? Deciding to take a leap of faith, I wrote, “I’m good thanks, how has your day been?” After we both got through the formalities, I learned that his name was Nick and that he worked in the car auctioning business. He was single to mingle, and only lived about three kilometres away from me. As time went on, our occasional chats became more and more frequent as the both of us enjoyed how easy it was to talk to each other (along with some loose flirting here and there.) Eventually, we decided to meet in person—he would pick me up from the train station and we would both go back to his place to “hang out”. To be honest, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Because we met on Grindr, I thought “hanging out” meant getting my freak on, regardless of the moderate age gap (I never really considered myself an ageist, so really if we were going to have sex I wasn’t about to complain.) Instead what I got was much more cathartic than I had expected at the time. When he invited me inside his house, Nick indulged me with more details of his life. His family was once considered royalty in the horse racing business in the mid 90’s. Because of their wealth and influence, they were quite prestigious in the media— but that all came crashing down when his parents passed away and his older brother suddenly committed suicide. “I remember exactly what the funerals were like—it was horrible. I couldn’t even say goodbye to them properly,” he scoffed as he showed me the Wikipedia page detailing his family’s past. “Because of our fame, the media were all over my older sister and I. They just seemed so fascinated with the deaths of my parents and my brother—they even camped outside the cemetery just to bombard me with questions. Privacy laws “To be honest, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Because we met on Grindr, I thought “hanging out” meant getting my freak on.” Words Aleczander Gamboa Issue Three: Page 16 If you’ve ever built a house, you’d know that it is a hell of a lot harder than making a Lego house. Heck, it’s hard enough doing it with Lego; I used to give up after I’d done the walls. Who even needs a roof, right? Lego men don’t feel the weather. Words & Photography Emily Nielsen *The exterior walls were made of rocks and looked like a hobbit’s house in Lord of the Rings. ** Smores are made of a biscuit-type cracker with roasted marshmallows and chocolate blocks inside to form a sandwich created by campfire gods. Issue Three: Page 17 Anyway, so here I was, an Australian fattyturned-tradie in the middle of the beautiful French countryside. Despite what I’m making it sound like so far, it is one of the best experiences you could have. I met people from all over the world who wanted to try something different, got to try some (more) of the best food in the region and got free accommodation—mice rummaging at night included. On top of that, we saw a meteor shower, walked through sunflower fields and went camping where people go to see bands, drink alcohol and indulge in other substances. For me, those ‘substances’ involved around 10 Smores, thanks to the American volunteer**. Do this, and I guarantee you will know what a true food coma is. I started out not being able to lift a breezeblock by myself, but by the end of my stay was able to lift them with one hand and clamber up scaffolding without freaking out. I ended up tanning to the point where I was almost black, had big muscles (not quite as big as Schwarzenegger’s) and cuts on my legs which made me feel badass enough to join some sort of gang. Moral of the story, give it a try on your next holiday. Do it with friends or by yourself. Pick a place that you like the sound of, or maybe one that you don’t, and take the challenge to step out of your comfort zone. You’ll realise your potential and will find things out about yourself that you never knew. You’ll become family with the people you’re with and get to see some amazing things you never thought you’d see. You’ll visit countries with fantastic landscapes, have the best adventures and meet the friendliest people. Also maybe pack an Australian flag singlet just in case—you never know when it will come in handy. Esperanto: The Final Frontier This is why I’d never allowed myself to go anywhere near building work. I always thought it was for people with muscles the size of Arnold Schwarzenegger and the smarts of a mathematician. But I’ve changed my opinion. How, you ask? I built a house. My 1 month construction career took place in the Dordogne after staying in Paris to do a language course—so that the little French I already knew couldn’t embarrass me in front of beautiful French men. (It still did.) So what does one do when in Paris? Stuff your face with croissants, macarons, éclairs, crêpes, cheese, wine, and baguettes, of course. If it sounds like a dream to you, that’s because it was. (I also thought I was dreaming about how much weight I gained. That part was definitely real.) After this, I made (more like rolled) my way to Dordogne in the French countryside to stay with a family in a program called Workaway. When I applied, I imagined working in their antique store most of the time and doing some light building work on the side. Boy oh boy, was I wrong. Since I have the luck of a person who cuts themselves on coral in shark infested waters, it turned out that we would be building intensely for five days a week. Look, it’s not like I was worried about breaking a nail, they all break by themselves anyway. But I was a girl who had eaten enough food in the past month to feed the whole of Melbourne for a week. Now, I was expected to lay breezeblocks, wield a pickaxe, demolish walls and move big rocks*. On top of that, it was the middle of summer and I had packed only my best clothes. Thankfully, I had decided to be a patriotic Australian and pack an Australian flag singlet, which I had never taken out of my suitcase for fear of looking like the typical tourist; broad accent and camera in sweaty hand included. Yet that’s exactly what I became. That singlet became my lifesaver, tan saver and made me the recipient of all the typical questions—like, “do you have kangaroos in your back yard?” I’m actually one of the few Melbournites who can answer “yes” to that question, although it was a roo that had escaped from the zoo near us, and we weren’t allowed to try and move it because it could kill itself. Turns out a suicidal kangaroo wasn’t the cute animal story the locals were hoping for. Turns out, a suicidal kangaroo wasn’t the cute animal story the locals were hoping for. Issue Three: Page 18 tTheST ED WA N DERERS. WA TED WASNDERERS. WA Step into the world of the modern day explorer, we follow their tracks through the unforgiving wastelands of Caulfield east. Photography. Zoe Kimpton Illus. Hayley Morris (@Flosskies) Esperanto: The Final Frontier Issue Three: Page 19 Georgie (top left) wears: Mill (top right) wears: Shirt from Ian Conner Jeans from Tigermist Shoes from Nike Issue Three: Page 20 Esperanto: The Final Frontier Issue Three: Page 21 Hayley (left) wears: Striped Shirt from North Face, Japan Shorts from Nike Socks from Fila Shoes from Interweb Lachy (top left) wears: Button Up shirt from American Apparel Shirt from Fun Apparel Jeans from I Love Ugly Cap from School Sam (left/above) wears: Shirt Vintage Ralph Lauren Beanie Faux Nike Jean Cheap Monday Socks 4 Horsemen Shoes Ebay Jacket Incu Issue Three: Page 22 Sam (top left) wears: Cap from 10 Deep Jacket from Incu Georgie (left) from: Jeans from H&M Shoes from Size.co.uk Esperanto: The Final Frontier Issue Three: Page 23 Issue Three: Page 24 d e t e n t i o n . Words Michelle Shelly Photo. (girl) Jessica Margot (roots) Oleisha Proksa (@ollyoxenfree) Esperanto: The Final Frontier After visiting the detention centre in Maribyrnong, Melbourne, my perspective and opinion on the controversial issue of refugees and asylum seekers changed. This is when I realized that the media seems to dehumanize people by concentrating on the wrong things. Boat People. Illegals. Queue-jumpers. Amongst all this emotional rhetoric, do we know what being an asylum seeker actually means? A refugee is someone who has been forced to flee their country because of persecution, war, violence, and the fear that their life is in danger. They are unable to seek protection from authorities in their own country. An asylum seeker is someone whose claim for refugee status has not yet been assessed. Most countries take in asylum seekers and refugees, but the bulk of the responsibility falls on developing nations like Pakistan, Turkey, and Yemen. Australia, in comparison, takes less than 1.5% of the worldwide population of asylum seekers, despite having a much larger GDP. “Boat people” are mainly those fleeing Sri Lanka, Afghanistan, Iraq and Iran. This is because of the constant abuse of human rights, chaotic violence, and genuine threat to many people’s lives that occurs there. Our country thrives on immigration. Without it, Australia would not be where it is today. Why, then, are we spending billions of dollars every year on maintaining detention centres and offshore processing? Wouldn’t it make more sense to actually use that money to process the refugees faster, and therefore decide whether they pass to be an Australian citizen or be moved safely to another country? If we invested just a fraction of the billions of dollars we spend on detention centres and offshore processing, and put it towards helping keep peace in countries that many refugees flee from, maybe the number of refugees that come to Australia would decrease. Follow Amenesty International for more questions and information: facebook.com/groups/amnesty.international. monash/ Screening “Between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea,” Q + A discussion with 6 speakers who have different insights to the refugee and asylum seeker brought to you by Amnesty Monash Caulfield. When: 30 th of May, 12pm-3pm Where: Building H, Level 2, Room 237, $5 Entry Fee, food and drinks provided Issue Three: Page 25 On a Thursday afternoon, a couple of fellow Amnesty International Monash Caulfield members and I made our way to the Melbourne detention centre. As we signed in we had to fill out a contact sheet. It was such a small thing, but as I was writing I realised even this would be impossible for the people living in the centre. I put my belongings in a locker before entering the main common room where refugees and their visitors can connect. As I entered the room I found that all the refugees are happy to have visitors, and welcomed me with open arms. They offered me drinks, food, and whatever they had to make me feel at home. I remember feeling confused. Here I was, with my snacks to give them—and yet they went out of their way to give me, a stranger, a bottle of Fanta which was meant for them. All the refugees were quite friendly, and they all introduced themselves to me. They just seemed overjoyed and excited to be having people outside the detention centre visit them. However, one thing that made my heart sink was when I asked them how long they would be in the detention centre for. They mostly had no idea when they were going to leave, and a sense of uneasiness filled the room. When talking with these refugees and getting to know them, a feeling of helplessness arose in me. I realised that I really couldn’t do much to try and get them processed through the system faster. That afternoon I vividly remember meeting two young boys under the age of 18. One boy, I would guess he was 16, always seemed to be in conflict with the staff at the detention centre, while the other boy was the quiet type. But both were eager to get contact details such as Facebook to connect with me later on. It made me stop and realise that these boys, rather than having an education, were forced to flee their country and go through hardships and circumstances that are hard to fathom for an adult, let alone a child. There were rumours about a detainee that had been staying in detention for over 3 years. There was another man who kept asking; why would your government lock us up? Most people talked about having to leave their family, home and country, only to be kept in the detention centre with no way of knowing when they were getting out. Some even questioned whether it was worth leaving everything just to come here and be locked up in a ‘prison,’ as some refugees referred to it. Issue Three: Page 26 YOUNG WILD FREE Two Esperanto writers investigate why we are so willing to take risks when we travel, and what makes that experience so memorable. Words Sinead Halliday Anna Harcourt Illus. Zach Beltsos-Russo “She grabbed me and kissed me with raw passion.” It seems the idea that opposites attract prevails. For some it is a fling—a brief dalliance—and for others it is a lasting romance. “I actually had a romantic encounter on my first trip overseas. I was 21 at the time and celebrating the Hurling Grand Final in a pub in Dublin. I was at the bar to get a drink and looked across to see the gazing attention of a beautiful young woman,” said Shaun. “We took the conversation out to the beer garden where the night went for an eternity. We talked about our cultural differences. I explained geographical information about Australia and in turn she told me all about the boot (Italy).” “I said thank you for a lovely evening and nice to meet you. She said the same. Then there was a pause. She grabbed me and kissed me with raw passion. (I still remember the kiss to this day). After that we exchanged numbers and arranged to meet up again. The pure love and passion lasted for a few weeks, then as sudden as it started, it ended in the same way. We both just departed from each other. No hate, no regret. It just was what it was. I’ll always have that magical memory Issue Three: Page 27 There is something rather enticing about an exotic accent. Hearing an unfamiliar brogue can be very alluring. Some Australians love the Irish accent, others like the French. Young things are constantly venturing off on adventures all over the globe, and often, find themselves love’n it up with someone from another part of the world. “The accent is one of the most defining parts of the attraction to a foreigner,” said Shaun Witherow, who was lucky enough to experience a fling while travelling. “I find the Italian and Spanish accents the most attractive—and probably the French accent too. Having travelled to numerous countries throughout Europe, I have to say these accents portray a romantic and somewhat seductive element that adds to the chemistry.” Esperanto: The Final Frontier Sinead Halliday on Love etched in my mind of something so pure and perfect at the time.” When travelling someplace new, there is that delightful thing: anonymity. You are able to roam free, disentangled from responsibilities, reputations and expectations. You can shed the routine, and spread your wings. “I think you have to have an open heart and open mind to travel. The idea of opening yourself to the world and what the unexpected is really reflects on your ability to fall in love. You are walking out of your comfort zone, vulnerable to new experience and open to do so. I think this is why we fall in love so easy. It’s like a chance to redeem ourselves or reinvent our new self. I feel like I can be who I really want to be in a foreign country. People don’t know you and there are no expectations. The love is really on a face value.” These encounters are not always so temporary. Angus Mac met his girlfriend while on exchange three years ago. “Her Mum is Scottish, and her Dad is English, and she has an American Accent. We just had so many good times overseas, and since she has come out to stay in Australia. It was so nice to have her here with me and all of my friends.” Distance can be damning though. Some people cannot make it work in the same city, let alone from another continent. The time and space spent apart can often cause worry, and deep doubt. Without being able to see one another, relationships can become uncertain and confusing. That physical reassurance is missing. Then again, some people manage to fill that void with chit chat. “When I came back to Australia, and we had time apart, I think we were a little nervous when she came out to visit, unsure of how it would go over here,” said Angus. “Yet, in the interim, I was speaking to her all the time over Skype, every day. I guess it works because I quite like the written word, and she does too.” Sadly the days of hand written letters are becoming lesser and rarer than in times gone by, but the internet now gives an immediacy which makes the absence a little less challenging. As the old saying goes, absence may make the heart grow fonder. Variety is the spice of life, and change can be as good as a holiday. Sexploration Secrets: Backpacker Edition “I met a girl on a bus at Palermo airport, and we were going to the same youth hostel. She sucked me off on the back of the bus. I’d only known her for about ten minutes. When we got to the youth hostel we went and had pizza and then went back and fucked on top of the roof. It was a genuine pick up. It was pretty good.” Would you do this in Melbourne? “No. Definitely not.” Issue Three: Page 28 “I had sex on a train in Poland, with a Polish guy, in the bathrooms. I met him in a hostel; we got on a train and went down to Krakow where he lived. It was really quick, because people were waiting outside.” Would you do this in Melbourne? “No, because you’d feel like you know someone on the train!” “On a motorbike in India with some Austrian guy. I had just met him before we got on the motorbike. We were out, I was drunk, I’d lost my friends and we were on the way to another club. He was sitting behind me on the motorbike…” Would you do this in Melbourne? “No, no. I really don’t think that would happen in that way in Melbourne.” Having sex with a girl on the bottom bunk while a friend has sex with another girl on the top bunk in a hostel in Ireland, all while suffering a severe bout of food poisoning: “There was like three other people sleeping in the room but we were like, ah fuck it. We’re on separate bunks, both in animal onesies, both having sex with a girl, and (the top-bunk friend) leans down and high-fives me. That was pretty much the best moment of my life! Then (the girl) left, and I went to the toilet and spent the rest of the night in there. I was so sick, and I didn’t want her to know how sick I was so I just slept in there. It was a weird night.” Would you do this in Melbourne? “Probably not. Apart from me telling you this now, no one would have found out about it, but in Melbourne someone could have been like, ‘Did you shit yourself on that girl?’ Anna Harcourt on Sex Sex and travel: the two go hand in hand. Holidays, hostels, sun and booze allow us to get loose in a way we never would at home. Overseas, we can do things we’ve only ever dreamed of: sex on trains, sex on the beach, sex in occupied dorm rooms. Things we’d never be comfortable doing down at St Kilda or on the Craigieburn line. When we travel, we feel free. Free of responsibilities, from work, from school, from family. We feel the freedom to do what we want, when we want, with who we want. Joey Simpson, a Monash second-year student, says that the freedom of travel allows him to be “one hundred per cent” sluttier. “I get involved when I travel,” he says. “You’ve got more of an opportunity to do whatever you want, and no one’s gonna pull you up on it.” “No one’s going to say, ‘stop being such a slut.’ People aren’t going to know who you slept with in the last city you were in. People aren’t going to know what you did three weeks ago unless you tell them.” Kate, a third-year student also at Monash, agrees that freedom from prying eyes helps rack up the notches on a traveller’s bed. “When you’re away,” she says, “there’s that level of anonymity where nobody knows you and you can start afresh. You can be whoever you want to be, with whoever you want to be with.” “It’s escapism in every sense, you can just sleep with someone and head off and not have to think about it again.” Simon, who is studying arts, told me he’s not sure if he himself is any more sexually open when he travels. But the girls, he says, the girls definitely are. “Sex is better overseas,” he declares. “The girls are just way more open. They’re really trying something new that they’ve always wanted to do, but for whatever reason they haven’t done before.” As Simon sees it, Aussie girls are held back by a fear of what their friends think. “They’re more carefree. They’re not held back by the norms that they are back home. They don’t have all those eyes looking over them, going, ‘Why did she do that, why did she do that with him?’ “When they’re travelling, they’re not with that group of friends so they can be themselves a little bit more,” he says. So liberty from judging friends is an important factor. But what else makes it easier to get laid abroad? Esperanto: The Final Frontier But is it just us randy Australians that go wild when we travel? What about people from other countries? What happens, for example, when they come here? “I don’t think I’m sluttier when I travel,” says Paulinha Hupe, a Brazilian exchange student studying at Monash. “Actually, it’s so liberal in Brazil, that we might be more slutty there.” Paulinha says that unlike Australia, in Brazil there’s nothing embarrassing about kissing ten people in one night. “When you go out in Brazil, its much easier and much more normal, I think, than here,” she says. “Here people… make a big deal out of it. In Brazil, you just get ten boys on you in half an hour when you’re in a nightclub. You just go out and get people. We even have a verb for that, ficar.” Paulinha agrees that there is an enormous social restriction about sex in Australia. It goes some way to explaining why we feel we need to leave the country in order to explore sexually. In Brazil, she says, sex is just that much more out in the open. “Guys here are pussies!” she laughs. “In Brazil you just look once, you don’t even need to look twice, the guy will know that you’re interested.” In Australia, however, a girl needs to work a lot harder to get some game. “Here, you can chat, you can look, you can shake your ass, and they don’t do anything.” In Brazil, says Paulinha, there’s less of a sense of shame and social inhibition about sex. People do care about what others think, but not enough to prevent them from doing something they truly want to do. So if Brazilians don’t suffer from the same social repression that we do, do they experience a similar sense of freedom when they travel? “Yes,” says Paulinha, “but in a different way.” “In Brazil, I’m not independent as I am here. I can’t be. The city itself, the security in the city there, makes me not be as free as I could be. Here I’m literally free to walk around, and to go around without being disturbed. This kind of freedom. Not of my mind.” If we can draw any conclusions from this, it is that Australians feel held back from sexploration at home because of the tough social restrictions we face. We’re worried about what people will think. We don’t want others knowing our business or knowing who we had sex with. We don’t like having to deal with the embarrassment of bumping into someone we once had a fling with. We actually have to leave the country in order to feel truly free. And when we do leave and break free from all that repression, we bloom into the slutty butterflies we’ve always wanted to be. So... I’ve bought my ticket for Brazil for this November. You coming with? Issue Three: Page 29 Partying, according to Joey. Because you spend most of your time drunk and socialising with other hot young people while travelling, the logistics of sex are much easier. “When you’re at home, you don’t have that ability to go out and get involved as much,” he says. “When you’re travelling, you’re usually around people the same age as you, that are feeling the same as you, and you have the opportunity to get involved with them in any way you want.” Kate also puts it down to the fact that when travelling, you never have to see the object of your affections again. At home, you could meet your paramour at any moment; you might bump into them at uni, or they could be part of your friendship group. Shit could get awkward. “You don’t want that somewhere where you’re established, where you’re going to school and you’re living permanently,” she says. “When you’re away you can escape that.” Simon agrees. He says that the transient nature of travel allows a kind of casual sex that just isn’t possible at home. “There’s not so much of a taboo on a onenight stand when you’re travelling,” he says. “You both know that this is only for a short time, and it just frees you up so much more than you are at home.” Issue Three: Page 30 e x p l o r i ng ge .n d e r . WHAT IT'S LIKE TO TRANSITION FROM MALE TO FEMALE Words Sinead Halliday Anna Harcourt Illus. Zach Beltsos-Russo Esperanto: The Final Frontier Monash law student Renee Newbury was born to conservative parents in Beaconsfield, a small town south-east of Melbourne. Her family lived on an acreage, where they bred Afghan dogs and kept horses—until they, and much of their town, lost everything in the Ash Wednesday bush fires. “At this time I was as heterosexual as society often expects, I had a loving partner, gainful employment, was finally undertaking tertiary study, had a car, house, everything but actual marriage and a child. Despite this, however, I still felt unhappy.” After passionate demands from Renee, her parents allowed her to transfer to a co-ed high school. Her grades and outlook improved immensely: “My faith in the world was renewed once again,” she says. As she grew up, Renee had no problem attracting and keeping girlfriends. Her most recent relationship, in fact, lasted for nine years. (She is now thirty.) It was during this relationship that Renee first came out as transgender—initially, only to her partner. “At this time I was as heterosexual as society often expects,” Renee explains. “I had a loving partner, gainful employment, was finally undertaking tertiary study, had a car, house, everything but actual marriage and a child. Despite this, however, I still felt unhappy.” After her relationship ended, Renee sought help. She was diagnosed as having Klinefelter XXY Syndrome (a condition in which males carry an extra female chromosome) and a less than normal male hormone level. Simultaneously, a psychiatrist uncovered her severe gender dysphoria. After attempting for some time to remain a male, Renee then began to transition into a woman. She told Mary Harmer about the experience, and what it’s like to be transgender at Monash. Issue Three: Page 31 Renee was moved to a sport-focused all-boys primary school to complete her education. At this point, despite later realising she identified as female, Renee still seemed—to herself and those around her—male. She hated the school, and became a target of bullying when she refused to take part in the male aggression of her schoolmates. It was around this time that Renee started to become aware of gender. She began digging into her mother’s closet in secret, dressing up in the clothes and make-up she found inside. At school she would seek out female parts to play, just for the experience. “I began to unwillingly follow the male role; secretly wishing somehow I would change to become the person I really was,” she remembers. “I craved female interaction, not simply from a sexual perspective, but for friendship and solidarity.” If I’m correct, you’re currently studying law? How are you finding it? Yes, I have always had an interest in law, equality and rights, even before my diagnosis. My family and I have had many interactions with the law (fortunately civil) which has fuelled my belief in change for the better; predominantly better access and the removal or reform of discriminatory laws. I was actually accepted into an undergraduate Bachelor of Law in 2011. Unfortunately my medical condition and subsequent Family Law matters, job loss, and depression, set me back at this time. I then had another unsuccessful attempt in 2013 whilst undergoing transition. Happily I was able to start again this year, and have persisted with the support of allies—despite ongoing external pressures. Issue Three: Page 32 For our readers who may not know, can you explain what being transgender means? Transgender falls under the trans* umbrella term, (the “trans” prefix followed by an asterix represents a whole spectrum of gender identities) and is different to other variations such as transvestite and transsexual. Transgender means moving to the opposite gender role full-time. (Unlike, for example, a transvestite, who will wear clothes typically associated with the opposite sex but does not identify as that sex.) As I found, this is an incredibly demanding and difficult process, but also highly rewarding. Through specialist and pharmacological intervention one begins a journey of physical, mental, emotional and social change: embodying the opposite gender through a period known as transition. The duration and intensity of this process varies between individuals, along with the dosage of necessary hormones to invoke secondary sexual characteristics, such as breast or muscle development. Personally, I took hormones for 2 months (less than the usual 6) and successfully completed 12 months of transition. This legally entitles me to confirm my assumed gender by means of Gender Reassignment Surgery (GRS,) an expensive and permanent process that creates an operational neo-vagina at a cost of around $20,000, which is not covered by Medicare. This exorbitant price leaves many people, like myself, stranded between genders. You have been involved with Queer Ally training for Monash University, what does this entail? The Monash Ally Network attempts to bridge the gap between what society deems ‘normal’ and what is deemed ‘diverse’ by promoting social inclusion and safety. The training contingent is a program which helps educate staff and students about gender, sexuality, and the meaning of queer. Participants may opt-in to professional development style training sessions, and then choose to become an ally. During the session, a panel of queer and trans* students are invited to express their story, feelings and concerns, and respond to questions. Since December 2013 I have aided in the content and delivery of the program, hosting training sessions and being a panel member. This has given me a direct insight into the beneficial nature of the program and need for trans* representation. I believe my participation has been successful. I have been approached by many staff and students offering support and solidarity. This is reason enough for me to continue, raising awareness and hopefully helping Monash be a better place for diverse students. I strongly believe that this group of students suffer under-representation despite facing the most need. Statistically—and relating to my own situation—it is common for queer and trans* identifying students to suffer exclusion, homelessness, violence, depression, and a high risk of suicide. This critically affects their ability to live happy, successful and productive lives. Esperanto: The Final Frontier “Trans* and queer identifying students are first and foremost people. They have similar dreams, likes, and aspirations as other students—” What can students or the university do better to improve the experience of transgender, or more generally queer identifying, students? Essentially, not fear them. Trans* and queer identifying students Can you tell us a bit about your own transition experience? Transition is an inherently hard, demanding, exhausting and terrifying experience. At the direction of a treating specialist, you are expected to be able to suddenly begin life in the opposite gender role, despite often lacking the necessary physical characteristics. This requires a huge amount of courage and strength. You have to step into the outside world as a new person, with little knowledge besides what you have picked up through osmosis or prior learning. No instruction is given, there is no rule book, and everyone’s story is different. I have always sought and preferred female traits and fortunately had a supportive partner who helped me establish my foundations on the other side. Relying upon information posted on the internet can be dangerous, as there are haters, allies and chasers (who prey on trans* and gender queer folk for their own sexual gratification); each with their own perspective and opinion on how one should or should not undertake transition. Despite some of the negative reactions I have received, I am incredibly grateful for the opportunity to effectively begin a new life. The transition process to me has truly been a confirming experience, solidifying my belief that I should have indeed been born female. Legal requirements meant I had to undertake a full-year in the opposite gender to confirm my suitability to be eligible for Gender Reassignment Surgery (GRS). For me, this was a rather daunting prospect at the beginning, but passed quickly. I have effectively lived through a second puberty which has helped complete my female secondary characteristics. Being able to be one’s true self is literally amazing, especially when you have been oppressed by both biology and society. I still remember the first day I stepped out full time. Two months of counselling had built up my courage and strength after it had been stripped away. The feeling was incredible and I thought of Martin Luther King’s speech “…thank god almighty I’m free at last.” Issue Three: Page 33 are first and foremost people. They have similar dreams, likes, and aspirations as other students—it is only their gender, sexuality, or a combination of both that is labelled different. Labels, stereotypes, exclusion and social isolation seriously affect and limit the individual—I can speak from experience. Students, if unwilling to accept those who identify as trans* or queer, should at least tolerate their presence. It doesn’t hurt to strike up a conversation or make them feel welcome. Increased understanding, representation and support of trans* and queer identifying students is desperately needed at universities. Trans* and queer students have different needs and wants to the general student consensus, such as ‘safe places’ and gender-neutral bathrooms. The latter is yet to be implemented at Monash despite a national agenda supporting such changes. The provision of ‘safe places’ has also been a hot topic. Fortunately reason has prevailed, and through negotiation Ally Network members can now display posters identifying ‘safe places.’ Issue Three: Page 34 Words & Images Phirin Ha Lettering. Stephanie Zhu Urban exploration, colloquially known as Urbex, is the act of exploring man-made structures that are restricted to the general public. While it is typically associated with the exploration of abandoned buildings, the definition loosely includes drains, pipes, sewers, and skyscraper rooftops. Melbourne is home to a plethora of derelict buildings and abandoned asbestos-contaminated warehouses, perfect for urban explorers and adventurers who dare to enter. Many of these structures have become home to dangerous squatters and drug-addicts alike, creating a potentially dangerous space for curious outsiders. Apart from its dodgy residents, urban explorers can also expect to encounter bloody syringes, flea-ridden rats and weapon-clad security guards, ready to swoop on any trespassers who come their way. While the world of urban exploring can be dangerous, however, the experience is not all doom and gloom. Gaining access to these restricted areas can also be incredibly thrilling and rewarding. There is a sense of isolation, neglect and loneliness surrounding these buildings, which is as spooky as it is endearing. Naturally, these buildings are a mecca for amazing street artists to work their magic, often leaving visitors wondering how such pieces can be produced in such restricted conditions. Esperanto: The Final Frontier Rules Issue Three: Page 35 Those wanting to begin exploring should take measures to ensure their trip is as risk-free as possible. These precautions can be the difference between having a good time, and winding up bed-ridden or in a jail cell. This will also ensure that spots won’t be “blown out”, which will disallow future explorers to visit the area without being hassled by nearby residents, security guards or the authorities. 1. Respect your surroundings 2. Take photos, only leave footprints There is a fine line between exploring and vandalising. Simply entering these properties already raises red flags with the authorities. While it may seem tempting to throw a rock through a window, or to leave your mark on a wall with a spray can that is lying around, unless you’re a professional graffiti artist it would be wrong to disturb the environment. This can also be the difference between getting arrested for vandalism and simply being asked to leave a location. Explorers should also respect the surroundings by leaving nothing behind but footprints. Most of these places will be occupied with broken glass, litter and food scraps left behind by squatters and vandals. Explorers should not leave behind rubbish or scraps to add to the mess. Take plenty of photos and appreciate what the venue has to offer. Nothing should be taken out of the premises. The basic rule of thumb is to leave the place in the same condition it was found. 3. Gear up effectively before your adventure 4. Act rationally! Explorers should come dressed in comfortable clothing with breathable materials. Come in clothes that you aren’t afraid to have ruined- climbing barbed wire fences and rusty ladders doesn’t mix well with Ben Sherman shirts or high heels! Bring a flashlight, phone, spare memory cards and batteries in case of emergency. Plan your escape routes before entering the premises. Protective measures, such as avoiding dusty asbestos rooms, are advised. Always bring a friend and never explore on your own, you can never predict what can happen next. Issue Three: Page 36 Esperanto’s Favourite Locations: 2. Abandoned Mill: 1. Northern Suburbs Warehouses: The north of Melbourne has traditionally been home to several industries. Several of these factories still remain, many of which have become abandoned and remain stuck in a time warp. However, if you do happen to stumble across these gems, you can expect to find jaw-dropping artwork and world-class graffiti murals which will please even the fussiest of art aficionados This location has remained largely undamaged since its abandonment in 2007. It’s fairly safe to visit and features a myriad of stencil artworks. The overwhelming, drowsiness-inducing stench of ammonia from bird droppings can be remedied simply by pulling your shirt over your nose. Don’t hang around for too long though, you might run the risk of encountering the local squatters, who reside in the room underneath the factory. Plans to demolish this site in place of a multi-million dollar housing development are expected to go ahead later this year, so explorers should visit soon before it’s too late. Esperanto: The Final Frontier Issue Three: Page 37 3. Disused Mental Asylum: Forever haunted by its former patients, this is no place for the fearful. The former psychiatric ward has been abandoned since 1994 and serves as a stomping ground for explorers and paranormal investigators alike. There are hundreds of instances of supernatural activity occurring at the monstrosity of a venue. Explorers beware—always have your torch ready, the decaying floorboards could give way at any moment. A Final Word Due to its dangerous and illegal status, urban exploration can be daunting for beginners. At the same time, however, the experience can be incredibly rewarding for those who stick to the rules. Have an awesome time, enjoy yourselves and more importantly, be safe. There are dozens of these sites around the city. It would be breaking urbex rules to publish the addresses, but the best part of urban exploring is finding these places for yourself! Go out and find them, and experience the strange beauty these abandoned sites have to offer. Issue Three: Page 38 Words Julia McConnochie Photo. Carrmen Yew Malaysia was never a country that was particularly striking to me. Yet here I am, three months into an exchange program, enraptured by what my expectations of this country have manifested in to. Being totally immersed in all the glory and ugliness of an unfamiliar country for an extended period of time, like you are whilst on exchange, is vastly different to the heterogeneity of travel. Unencumbered, you are free to explore the idiosyncrasies of a culture- its contradictions, fears, hopes, and the structural peculiarities that underpin every day existence. Esperanto: The Final Frontier Issue Three: Page 39 Malaysia is geographically and culturally split experience, Malaysians are curious, generbetween its peninsular and the east. Its many ous, open and have an aware self-expression states, surrounded by tropical waters, are that perpetually surprises you. Adjusting to covered in supposedly ‘sustainable’ palm oil the Malaysian accent takes a little while, and plantations and immense jungle. As an equato- time-to-time my brain circles in an attempt rial country, acceptance of the consistently to decipher what someone said a matter of excessive amounts of sweat saturating all parts seconds ago. “Abang saya nak pergi ke KL of your body is a necessary part of life. sentral?” Speaking Malay to taxi drivers you Approximately sixty per cent of Malaysia’s instantly notice a wide-eyed mental adjustthirty million predominantly Malay, Chinese ment—you transform from a 20 something and Indian residents inhabit urban areas. middle class white tourist to someone with an Extraordinary amounts of concrete construcassumed understanding of their culture. Then tion sites crowd the horizon, and endeavthere is the magic buzzword, ‘lah’, tacked on ours to hide poverty are done so in the true to the end of any sentence, seemingly embedspirit of what it means to be an Asian Tiger. ded in the situatedness of what it means to Regional life exists in contrast with the be Malaysian. “Jam lah” for example, used cosmopolitanism of the city. It is governed by primarily in the throws of rush hour, refers to a simple routine of prayer, farming, fishing, the taxi driver’s grapple between mountains and cooking. Resorts, beach bars, shisha and of diesel-laden traffic and the destination. monkey juice (the local moonshine) make the Ordering food at a mamak is quintessential island experience. Yet the inevitable threat to the Malaysian experience. Unsatisfying of tourism—and the imitation western increasing presence food is complemented For the youth this of jellyfish-like plastic by an array of rice, bags—lingers in the air, egg, chicken, noooften means a cycle awaiting the arrival dles, chilli, oily fried of competitive strugof a conservationist’s goods, roti, dal and disapproval. the occasional hint of gle, ever dominated Language, along a green bean or two. by a zealous ‘You with a patriotic And who could forget disillusionment with the pungent smell of must be number one’ political and human durian. Vegetarianism familial pressure. rights shortcomings, occasionally translates unites local identito the acceptable eatties. A corrupt, image wary bureaucracy ironi- ing of fish or chicken, until further clarificacally beats down on crime and drug culture tion. Inbred cats and dogs sneeze as they dive with a hard iron fist. It’s an interesting time to in and out of bins in search of the perfect left be here—amid the political and media circus over scraps. The irresistibility of the food leads playing up MH370, followed by a much-celeto late night delivery cravings from Jaffar’s, a brated visit by Barack ‘charisma’ Obama. As a local mamak specialising in spicy tandoori, student, immersed in the technological savvi- fragrant biryani and chickpea curry goodness. ness and expected social butterflying of youth An hour or two is a commonly expected waitculture and the music scene, it was also hard ing time, and a phone call half an hour prior to ignore the politicisation of drug overdoses to arrival means students living on campus at Future Music Festival in March, resulting in congregate outside in hope that the pangs of the cancellation of its third day. hungerdom will be relieved pronto. Though, The increasingly Islamised Malay majority all is forgiven, as an assuring sense of neware favoured through government schemes found patience accepts that all will happen and quotas. Those remaining are left on the in Malaysia’s time. peripheries. For the youth this often means a Kuala Lumpur had always been a stop over cycle of competitive struggle, ever dominated on a long journey for me. Now, I’ve witnessed by a zealous ‘you must be number one’ famil- the sky-high condominiums lining highways ial pressure. Yet, with the contentious and upon highways beyond the airport, ever irregular enforcement of minimum wages, the buzzing with protons, Ferraris and scooters organised chaos of Malaysia is supplemented mounted by back-to-front rain jacket riders. I’ll by a reasonable quality of life (not ignorant definitely be back. I’ve dug into the minds of of progress that still needs to be made.) locals as an attempt to discover what it means Malaysians get by. to be Malaysian, and what it means to live in Once the ice is broken, often by the mutual Malaysia in the 21st Century. Regulation meets subtlety of a smile, the Malaysians I’ve relaxation; jungle meets sea; rich meet the met have responded with constructive and poor. The spontaneity and adventure of every heartfelt conversation. Encounters with staff day life here has been the perfect environment at mamaks (street food joints) and coffee for personal growth. Thank you, Malaysia. houses, fellow students, colleagues and local friends have been very welcoming. In my The centre of active lifestyles at Monash, located right on your doorstep at Caulfield Warm up this winter & download a FREE 7 day trial pass from our website today Get ready for Monash Games 2014 The annual Monash Games is happening between 23 & 25 July. 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