We celebrate the hyaena Fill up

EE
FR
Traveller’s Friend
Botswana Mozambique Namibia Zambia Zimbabwe | www.zambezitraveller.com
DEC | JAN | FEB 2014/15 Issue 19
HYAENA
We celebrate the hyaena
hyaena play a key role in the
structuring and function of
African ecosystems and are
therefore of considerable
conservation significance.
DR MATTHEW BECKER,
CEO/Programme Manager,
Zambian Carnivore Programme
[email protected]
www.grantatkinson.com
www.zambiacarnivores.org
Perhaps in part owing to
their undeserved reputation,
hyaena are not currently a
species of concern, though
populations are declining
continent-wide, and overall
little is known about their
status. Nevertheless they are
threatened by human conflict
in the form of poisoning,
shooting and trapping, as well
as from poaching offtake of
prey, poaching by-catch (where
another species was the desired
target) and habitat loss.
Despite some resemblance
to cats and dogs, hyaena are
in their own distinct family.
Unlike other large carnivores, hyaena form social
units known as clans, with a
rigidly enforced matriarchal
hierarchy, meaning females,
PHOTO: GRANT ATKINSON
W
hile other
iconic
African
wildlife
species might be described
as noble, majestic or beautiful, the lowly spotted hyaena
enjoys no such compliments.
Reviled and persecuted
throughout history, associated with witchcraft, vilified
in stories and even films
such as The Lion King, the
hyaena has long been yoked
with all that is filthy, thieving
and evil. However, as with so
many stereotypes, the truth
about hyaena is far more
complimentary and fascinating than the fiction we have
perpetuated about Africa’s most
successful, widespread and
socially complex large carnivore.
Spotted hyaena are social carnivores, and play is just one way that they maintain bonds. With older animals, or those
close to maturity, play-fighting can be rough, though serious injuries seldom occur
and rank, rule hyaena society.
Perhaps the most bizarre
aspect of hyaena social
systems is the pseudo-penis
of the female, an elongation
of the clitoris resulting in
females looking like males, the
function of which continues
to elude scientists.
With one of the strongest
bite forces and stomach acid
of any large mammal, the
spotted hyaena’s ancestors
likely evolved as ‘bone-eaters’,
which is not hard to imagine
when watching hyaena
crunch bones at a carcass. But
labelling them scavengers is
inaccurate, for the hyaena is a
skilled predator that typically
kills more than it scavenges.
As a result hyaena can
exert a strong predatory influence on herbivores in addition
to impacting co-occurring
populations of wild dog,
cheetah, lion and leopard
through direct and indirect
competition. In concert
Like all large carnivores,
hyaena need large tracts of
connected habitat, and in the
Zambezi region this connectivity often extends beyond
country borders in the form
of Transfrontier Conservation
Areas such as KAZA.
This special issue of
Zambezi Traveller celebrates
one of Africa’s most intriguing and maligned species,
while detailing the ongoing
conservation work across the
region to help ensure that
African nights continue to
resonate with the whoop of
the wandering hyaena for
generations to come.
A NNIVERSA RY
04 Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
Celebrates 20 Years
CONSERVATION
16 A unique bush experience
A NNIVERSA RY
22 Golden Jubilee for Zambia
ECOTOURISM
27 First for Botswana and Africa
regulars
03 Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
15 Hwange, Zimbabwe
18 Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
19 Livingstone, Zambia
25 Luangwa, Zambia
26 Okavango, Botswana
27 Chobe, Botswana
32 Harare, Zimbabwe
34 Kariba & Middle Zambezi,
Zambia and Zimbabwe
38 Cahora Bassa & Tete,
Mozambique
Inside
Fill up
with more than fuel
at RAM Chirundu!
Groceries
Ice
Cold Drinks
Chicken & Chips
Clean Bathrooms
Ram Petroleum
2
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
INSIDE Front Page
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
KAZA
Zebra return to Simalaha
ALAN SPARROW
www.kavangozambezi.org
I
n the sixties visitors
to Victoria Falls and
Livingstone would be
flown over the Kasaya
River valley to view the wildlife that lived in large numbers
on the Simalaha floodplains.
The habitat was ideal for
wetland species such as
lechwe and waterbuck, as well
as for many other species such
as buffalo and wildebeest.
Then, for decades, the
floodplains were devoid of
larger wildlife. With full
backing from the Zambia
Wildlife Authority and
traditional leaders, and with
the support of the Peace Parks
Foundation, wildebeest and
impala were reintroduced in
October 2013.
The Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy: Map by the Peace Parks
Foundation
operation was carried out
with skill and efficiency by
a Namibian commercial
capture unit. The zebra settled
down quickly and have since
produced young.
This year 50 zebra were
captured in the Salambala
Conservancy in Namibia and
translocated to the Simalaha
Community Conservancy in
Western Zambia.
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
Capturing zebra to release in the Simalaha Conservancy in Zambia
TFCAs are a
bold concept
linking protected
areas across
international
boundaries
The Simalaha Community
Conservancy lies at the heart
of the Kavango Zambezi
Transfrontier Conservation
The Peace Parks Foundation and the Zambia Wildlife
Authority have facilitated
the return of wildlife to the
Simalaha floodplains in
support of the two chiefdoms.
This is a major step
forward to linking the Kafue
National Park to protected
areas in neighbouring countries. Ancient patterns are
being restored.
TRAVEL
STOP PRESS - KAZA UNIVISA
– good news for Zambia and Zimbabwe
ZT CORRESPONDENT
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.kazavisa.info
www.love-for-africa.com
T
he KAZA
UNIVISA
was launched
on the 28th
November 2014, government officials from both
Zambia and Zimbabwe
attended the launch on the
Victoria Falls Bridge.
The Governments of
the Republics of Zambia
and Zimbabwe have
announced the launch of
the Kavango Zambezi
Trans-Frontier Conservation Area (KAZA)
UNIVISA on 28 November, 2014.
The KAZA UNIVISA
is a common tourist visa
for the SADC region
which shall be piloted by
Zambia and Zimbabwe
for six (6) months. After
the pilot period, the
PHOTO: HUMPHREY GUMPO
The capture and release
The release event was
witnessed by traditional
leaders from both the
Inyambo Yeta and Sekute
chiefdoms. The introduction of zebra, wildebeest
and impala has received
the enthusiastic support of
communities on both sides
of the Kasaya River and the
government of Zambia has
promised to provide further
species.
Area. TFCAs are a bold
concept linking protected
areas across international
boundaries and are of sufficient scale to incorporate
entire biomes, to restore crossborder wildlife movement and
to re-connect cultures once
split by political boundaries.
Hon. Minister of Home Affairs Dr Ngosa Simbyakul a M.P. (ZAMBIA) and
Deputy Minister of Home Affairs Hon. Ziyambi Ziyambi M.P. (ZIMBABWE)
UNIVISA is intended to be
rolled out to three (3) other
countries in the KAZA region
– namely Angola, Botswana
and Namibia. More countries in the SADC region
are expected to join in the
UNIVISA initiative at the
later phase.
The UNIVISA will be
issued at a standard fee of
US$50 – where credit card
point of sale facilities are
not available at port of entry
it is recommended that
clients have US$50 available for payment.
ZIMBABWE
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
3
VICTORIA FALLS
Conservation – Community – Wildlife – World Heritage – History – Tourism
www.zambezitraveller.com
ADVENTURE
On a highline over the Falls
SONJA GULDNER-HAMEL
Planet Talk GmbH
[email protected]
http://www.outdoorsportsteam.
com/en/slacklining/team/reinhardkleindl/
http://www.outdoorsportsteam.
com/en/slacklining/history/
D
uring the
first week of
November
2014, almost
exactly 159 years after Scottish missionary and explorer
David Livingstone became
the first European to view
the world-famous Victoria
Falls, two slackline pros from
Europe have managed to cross
the 100m deep gorge of the
largest waterfall on earth on
a highline.
Slacklining is similar to
tightrope walking, with the
athlete balanced on a dynamic
nylon webbing tensioned
between two anchor points.
(see factfile)
For two years, 26-year old
economic science student
Lukas Irmler from Freising,
Germany and 34-year old
science journalist and crime
author Reinhard Kleindl,
from Graz, Austria, worked
towards the realisation of their
extraordinary dream: balancing on 2.5cm wide webbing
at a height of 100m, right in
front of the unique setting of
the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Lukas Irmler making his way across the highline above the Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
“We are always looking for
great new locations where we
can set up our highlines,” said
Kleindl. “About two years ago
Lukas and I did some research
and came across a picture
of the grand Victoria Falls.
We were instantly hooked,
but we thought this is out of
our range. Nevertheless, we
pursued the idea.”
First research revealed that
the gorge is approximately
100m wide. “Two years ago,
a 100m long highline was
just under the world record,”
Irmler said. “Even for us it
was a length that we couldn’t
master safely, so it was a huge
challenge. We had to enhance
our athletic skills.”
However, planning the
venture turned out to be an
even bigger challenge. It took
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
the slackliners several months
to convince the local authorities about the project and
get all the necessary permits.
Right timing depended on the
water level of the Zambezi
River.
every year, it was difficult to
determine the right point in
time which would allow us to
rig a highline. The small islets
on the waterfall side are only
accessible by boat for a few
weeks each year.”
“If the water level is
too high, the spray rises up
to 300m and you can’t do
anything,” Kleindl explained.
“Since water levels vary
Kleindl and Irmler could
not determine how to fix
their line across the gorge
until they actually got there.
“Fortunately we found a
suitable tree within a distance
of 91m, which enabled us to
do a clean highline set-up.
We did get permission to put
in some temporary bolts, but
in our sport we want to leave
no traces behind. Especially
since the Zimbabwe Parks
and Wildlife Management
Authority trusted us.”
Continued to page 6
4
VICTORIA FALLS
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
ANNIVERSARY
Victoria Falls Safari
Lodge Celebrates 20 Years
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
ZT CORRESPONDENT
www.africaalbidatourism.com
A
frica Albida
Tourism
chairman,
Dave Glynn
described the hospitality group’s multi-award
winning flagship, which
opened in December 1994,
located just 4km from
Victoria Falls, as “a massive
success”.
PHOTOS: AFRICA ALBIDA
achieved an average occupancy
of 72 per cent, which, for a new
resort property in a long haul
destination, was a remarkable
achievement.
and they were undamaged.
That was quite a remarkable feat,” said Glynn.
These efforts were recognised when the Lodge
was awarded the prestigious international Green
Globe Distinction Award
in 2000 for outstanding
environmental practices in
its construction.
“This was especially pleasing given that room rates were
above average for Africa, and
to this day the lodge continues to go from strength to
strength, with latest statistics
indicating occupancy is now at
an all time high.
“It’s incredibly rewarding that in August 2014, just
four months before our 20th
Selecting the lodge site
rooms facing outward so they
are completely open to the
wilds and visitors can have the
sounds and smells of Africa. In
addition to being on the doorstep of Victoria Falls, an iconic
destination, guests enjoy the
wildlife, sunsets and unspoilt
views to the horizon,” he said.
When people are coming to Africa, they
want Africa; they don’t want Europe in
Africa. So we went to great lengths to
provide an authentic African feel.
“Reviewing those 20
years, the last 15 or so have
been tough in Zimbabwe,
and what I’m most proud
of is that we’ve endured
and we’ve never compromised on standards,” Glynn
said. “We’ve always outperformed in terms of our
share of occupancy for the
town of Victoria Falls.”
Africa Albida chief executive, Ross Kennedy said,
“In our first full year of
operation, being 1995, we
birthday, all of our previous
operational records were
smashed in terms of occupancy, room rates achieved
and the number of food and
beverage covers served.
“One of our proudest
achievements is the fact that
we have 24 members of staff
who have been with us for at
least 20 years. Some of them
started their employment
in 1991 and 1992 when we
first started to develop the
property.”
Construction of the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
Glynn attributed the success of the Victoria Falls Safari
Lodge, in part, to its ‘celebration of Africa’.
“When people are coming to Africa, they want
Africa; they don’t want Europe in Africa. So we went
to great lengths to provide an
authentic African feel. We incorporated thatched buildings,
lots of timber and built all the
During construction an
environmental architect was
employed to ensure minimal
impact on the lodge’s surroundings. No mature trees on
the land were destroyed during
building and 6,000 young trees
were planted on and around
the estate.
“When we opened in 1994
it looked as though we had
been there forever, the mature trees were still standing,
Victoria Falls Safari
Lodge, where a $1 million refurbishment including an upgrade of all 72
rooms, was completed in
July 2014, will continue its
trademark pursuit of excellence into the future.
“We want to elevate our
standards to a level that is
peerless, where we are unquestionably the best in
the region in terms of quality of product and service
delivery,” Glynn said.
Other Africa Albida
properties include the exclusive 20-room Victoria Falls Safari Club, the
newly opened luxurious
Victoria Falls Safari Suites,
the Resort Condominium
International Gold Crown
Resort Lokuthula Lodges,
as well as Ngoma Safari
Lodge located in Chobe,
Botswana.
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
VICTORIA FALLS
ANNIVERSARY
20 Things you might not know
about Africa Albida Tourism
Dave Glynn and Ross Kennedy, the founders of Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
and its parent company, Africa Albida Tourism, take a trip down memory lane
recounting two decades of challenges, tragedies, opportunities, successes and
quirks that make the company what it is today.
up dignitaries from flights for
three hours! She was a mission to replant, but, thankfully,
survived and is now thriving as
you can see.”
16 There are seven resident crocodiles in
the waterhole.
17 There are 24 long serving members of
staff who have been with the company
from the beginning.
18 The Boma was built to obtain Resort
Condominium International affiliation for
Lokuthula Lodges.
Ross Kennedy - Chief Executive, Africa Albida Tourism and Dave Glynn - Chairman, Africa Albida Tourism
ZT CORRESPONDENT
1 Dave Glynn discovered the location
of the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge whilst
on a run.
“I was at an industrial
congress,” says Dave, “and I
was so frustrated, I went for
a run and stumbled on this
site - and I thought, well I
should build a hotel here.”
2 The roof of Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
main building caught fire during construction, but it was brought under
control quickly.
3 The founders nearly went broke six
times whilst building the hotel.
there for many years. We called
it ‘Two Front Teeth’ because
there was an old lady who was
so enthralled by the view that
she was walking along the passage, looking and turning, and
she walked straight into the
tree and knocked her two front
teeth out.”
8 Ross Kennedy, Dave Glynn and archi-
tect Josh Ward travelled to Kenya and
visited 29 lodges in seven days to get an
idea of how to build the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.
5 The Buffalo Bar got its name during
construction.
“Every night we would
sit on the hotel site and
have a few beers,” says Dave,
“and the buffalo used to arrive. By the end of the dry
season, that herd was over
800 strong. It would take an
hour and a half to come in.”
6 The swimming pool was delayed by
four months because of a tree.
“I refused to allow them
( Josh and his team) to cut
it down,” says Dave. “Eventually they came to me and
asked if they could transplant the tree, then put the
swimming pool there. I
said ‘yes, you can’, and that
tree survived for a very long
time.
7
An old lady lost her two front teeth
whilst looking at the view.
“There was another tree
that was outside the ladies
and gents toilet,” says Dave.
“I refused to allow them to
remove it too. So they built
the patio and the walkway
around the tree. And it was
“I was sitting at the Buffalo
Bar and we heard the bang – it
was blue skies overhead,” says
Dave. “I shouted to the guests
on the lower deck: ‘What can
you see?’ and they just said:
‘Smoke!’“ I ran out, got in a
vehicle and was there within
two minutes, but there were
just shells left – Lodges 18 and
19 had burnt down.”
9 The apex of the main lodge is in a direct 15 The baobab outside Victoria Falls Safari
line with the Victoria Falls.
10 The Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is the
only hotel in Victoria Falls with a sunset
view.
4 Africa Albida Tourism was the first 11
organisation in Zimbabwe to hire an
environmental architect (Josh Ward).
14 A lightning bolt struck Lokuthula
Lodges 18 and 19 right after the opening
of Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.
The fence surrounding the property
was only put up in the beginning to keep
people, not animals, out.
“National Parks were incensed,” says Dave, “that we
were putting up a fence along
the back of our property. It
transpired that they thought
we were going to put a fence
around the property and keep
animals inside. But we were
putting a fence up to keep
people out, and allow the animals free access.”
Lodge reception was transplanted from
Hwange.
“Nineteen years ago we
found this amazing baobab
tree in an open cast mine in
Hwange area, so we agreed
to bring it to Victoria Falls,”
says Dave. “It was 18m tall
and needed a low-loader to
transport it the 100 km-plus
distance. It was a mammoth
task. About halfway we hit a
power line, electrocuting the
baobab and singeing two metres off the top. In another
twist of bad luck we got stuck
on the Masuwe bridge coming into Victoria Falls, holding
12 The waterhole was previously an old
disused gravel pit.
“Sixty years before, when
the town was being developed, they scooped away all
that red dirt and just left bare
rock,” says Dave. “But over the
years the rain washed in, and
there is quite a lot of clay, so it
just sealed itself and made its
own waterhole for four or five
months of the year. All we did
was put in permanent water
and bring plant material from
the river, bream and other fish.
And now it is its own ecosystem, as long as we continue
putting water in there.”
19 A 1.2m crocodile wandered
from the
waterhole into Lokuthula Lodge 15.
“We couldn’t believe it
when we saw the croc lying in
the corner of the lounge,” says
Ross. “It was captured using
a bath towel and taken back
down to the waterhole for release.”
20 Lion killed a buffalo on the lawn in
front of Lokuthula Lodge 6, before the
fence was erected.
“The South African guests
staying there at the time rolled
up their blinds and sat drinking coffee, watching this pride
of lions feeding on a buffalo, not even five metres away
from them,” says Dave.“The
next thing, the guys from the
next door lodge strolled over
to have a look, and then before
you knew it there were a dozen
people sitting in the lounge
at 3am, watching these lions
feed, feeling completely safe
inside the lodge.”
Happy 20th Anniversary, Africa Albida
Tourism! Here’s to 20 more.
With us from
the start
As Victoria Falls Safari Lodge celebrates its 20th
anniversary we salute the 24 members of staff
who have been with us since the beginning. Their
hard work, loyalty and commitment has made
us what we are today. Meet these exceptional
members of our team.
ZT CORRESPONDENT
Batisani Mhlanga
Rhoda Mzari
Lokuthula
laundry
“I remember the year the
staff who had worked for the company
for ten years were invited to come to
The Boma – Place of Eating, for dinner.”
housekeeper/
“I most enjoy meeting people from different places, and that it is never quiet,
keeping us on our toes.”
Branch Murinyu
Thomas Howera
Purchasing officer
Night auditor
“The company is efficient
and motivated, and I feel proud every
time it scoops awards.”
“I enjoy meeting guests of
different cultures, and working with my
colleagues.”
David Makuyana
Takawira Chinyowa
Barman
Assistant head waiter
“My proudest moments
were when I was promoted from barhand to barman, and once when I won
Worker of the Month in July 2011.”
“I enjoy the environment
and the people, and my proudest moment was when I got my first Worker of
the Month award in 1993.”
Farai Sakara
Virginia Muntanga
Plumber
Creditor
“I am a man that is
dedicated to my work as a plumber at
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.”
Electure Nyoni
“I started working here as
a bedroom hand but I am now in the
accounts department. I am most proud
of my clean record – not once have I had
to attend a disciplinary hearing.”
Carpenter
“I am proud of my trade,
and I enjoy working hand in hand with
my team mates.”
Rachel Sakara
Amos Goro
Security
“Everybody in the whole
town wants to join the company because of the good conditions of work.”
Housekeeping supervisor
“I most enjoy meeting different people from around the world.”
Fibion Dube
Senior book keeper
“I have enjoyed the structural growth, the staff development
programmes and the vision that the
group has.”
Francis Chijokwe
Bar supervisor
“I enjoy the sunset from
the bar, as Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is
the only hotel here with this view, and I
also like how it is always busy.”
Lloyd Nyabuno
Head butler
“I enjoy serving guests and
solving their problems, and also making
their stay a memorable one.”
Daniel Mhlanga
Lokuthula Lodges manager
“I am proud and humbled to be a part
of this successful organisation.”
John Mugadza
Front porter
“I like that we get our salary on time,
and that those days of being paid in Zim
dollars and coupons are behinds us.”
Lovemore Shoko
Khumbulani Mapfumo
Barman
Head porter, driver
“There are lots of opportunities to grow, as the company
offers training for all interested staff
members.”
Front office supervisor
“I always feel challenged
if the hotel is busy, and I enjoy working
in a positive environment with trustedstaff and good management.”
Pretty Ncube
Cashier
“I came to this company
as a girl and now I am a strong woman,
and it has taught me the principles of
life, the value of hard work and to stay
focused. I enjoy every moment.”
Tracy Ncube
Bedroom hand
The baobab tree then and now
and management, and that the company’s growth secures my job.”
Carpenter
Martin Mazana
13 Terry Middlemost was the first General
Manager.
“We were too far out of
town, so we had to have a restaurant, but as we could not afford to build one, we just built
a kitchen and laid down some
bricks outside,” says Dave. “It
was a failure due to the constant weather changes. I eventually got a friend to come
to Victoria Falls to build the
Boma. She went three times
over budget, nearly made AAT
broke, but she saved the Boma.
We have never looked back. It
was then that we called it The
Boma - Place of Eating.”
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
“I enjoy the friendly staff
“I like everything about Victoria Falls
Safari Lodge, so thank you for keeping
me working for you.”
Kephas Machesi
Front porter, driver
“I most enjoy meeting guests from different countries, but my proudest moments were when I won the Worker of
the Year award in 2005 and 2011.”
Cornelia Ngwenya
Bedroom hand
“What I enjoy most is meeting different
people and making more friends.”
Nicodemus Mangombe
Waiter
“I enjoy the friendly environment, that
we work as a team, and that we are
paid on time, and how problems are
solved amicably.”
5
6
VICTORIA FALLS
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
HISTORY
World War I Series – Part 4
The Battle for
German East Africa
SOURCE:GERMAN EAST – BRIAN GARDNER
RUSSELL GAMMON
[email protected]
www.victoriafallsheritagetours.com
Lettow-Vorbeck’s plan for
the war was quite simple - he
knew that East Africa would
be a sideshow to Europe but
he was determined to tie
down as many British troops
as he could to keep them away
from the Western Front.
He disregarded orders
from Berlin and the wishes
of the colony’s Governor,
Heinrich Schnee, to keep the
colony neutral and as soon
as war was declared began
his preparations. His chief
protagonist was the South
African General J C Smuts
who, a few years earlier, had
fought a similar campaign
against the British in
South Africa.
The biggest contrast
between the two forces was
their make-up; LettowVorbeck favoured professional
German staff officers leading
African askari and over the
course of the campaign he
forged this body of men
into a formidable fighting
force that easily out-fought,
Lettow-Voorbeck (second from left)
Allied General Jacob van
Deventer, informing him that
an armistice had been signed.
He agreed to a ceasefire and
marched his forces north to
Abercorn (now Mbala) where
he surrendered his undefeated
army on 25 November 1918.
The force then consisted of
On a highline over the Falls
on yourself to send a line,
especially when it’s so long
and the conditions are so
unpredictable. It wasn’t
easy for us to approach this
highline with confidence,
although we had three
days,” Irmler said. “All the
more surprising and great
for us that we both freed
the line on the first day.
That way we had time to
play with the line and to
hang loose at a height
of 100m.”
Continued from page 1
The Legion of Frontiersmen
Assembled by Colonel P D
Driscoll DSO, veteran of the
South African War, they were
officially known as the 25th
(Service) Battalion Royal
Fusiliers (Frontiersmen) but
in east Africa they simply
became known as ‘The Old
and the Bold’. Even allowing
for the fact they came from
a nation noted for fostering
eccentric characters, it’s
hard to imagine a more
colourful and diverse group
of adventurers than were
found in this gathering.
Their number boasted FC
Selous, the noted hunter and
naturalist; a large number of
late members of the French
Foreign Legion; a dusting
of millionaires; one royal
servant from Buckingham
Palace; a circus clown;
several cowboys from Texas;
a handful of musicians
from the dance band at
the Empire; a lighthouse
keeper from Scotland; an
opera singer; a professional
strongman; an Irishman
who had been sentenced
to death by the President of
Costa Rica and who had,
presumably, escaped; a
band of Mounties; a music
hall acrobat; a lion tamer
and last but by no means
least, an ex-general of
the Honduran army who
designed and built them
an experimental bombthrowing device which
nearly annihilated the entire
British High Command, who
rather unwisely showed up
to witness its test firing.
Whatever their reasons for
volunteering, one thing is
certain - they were easily
the most romantic and
remarkable group of fighting
men ever to depart British
soil to go into battle abroad!
out-marched and out-witted
the British.
somewhat optimistically, the
Legion of Frontiersmen (see
Smuts, by contrast, had
been saddled with a ragtag
army comprising a mixed bag
of Indian battalions, a core of
South African regulars that
were the backbone of the
force and a colourful bunch
of aged volunteers, named
Undefeated in combat,
Lettow-Vorbeck was the
only German commander to
successfully invade British
territory during the First
World War. He finally
received a message from the
box above).
There was still one
obstacle to overcome:
bridging the 100m deep
and 1.7km wide ravine to
connect both sides. Kleindl
and Irmler first planned to
use a drone to transport a
fishing line across the gorge,
to connect both sides, but
when they heard how many
film productions had already
lost a drone in the waterfall
they went for Plan B: using
a slingshot to catapult a
small lead weight across,
connected to a fishing line.
It worked on the third
attempt.
After having put in
so much effort, the two
friends left it to a coin flip
to decide who would be
the first to test the extreme
highline conditions in front
of the thundering waterfall.
Kleindl was the lucky one.
“I’m used to wind, rain and
snow when highlining in the
mountains, but this intense
spray that comes from below
and from the side, that soaks
your line, makes it heavy and
impairs your vision, is quite
a challenge,” he said.
A highline is officially
considered as ‘sent’ if you
cross it without a fall. Both
The two slackliners
not only enjoyed a million
dollar view of the majestic
waterfalls, but also the
unique sight of a circular
rainbow in the spray underneath their highline.
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
P
aul Emil
von LettowVorbeck was the
commander of the
German forces in the German
East Africa campaign and
over a period of four years
fought the most successful
guerrilla operation in the
history of modern warfare.
With a force that never
exceeded about 14,000 men
he kept in check over 300,000
British, Belgian and Portuguese troops.
just 30 German officers, 125
German non-commissioned
officers and other enlisted
ranks, 1,168 askaris and some
3,500 porters. He returned
to Germany where he and
his officers were welcomed as
heroes and paraded in their
tattered colonial uniforms
through the Brandenburg
Gate that was decorated in
their honour.
Smuts, by contrast, had been saddled with
a ragtag army comprising a mixed bag of
Indian battalions, a core of South African
regulars that were the backbone of the force
and a colourful bunch of aged volunteers.
Walking across the highline, Victoria
Falls, Zimbabwe
Irmler and Kleindl managed
to send the 91m long highline
on the first day, after only a
few attempts.
“You often underestimate
how much pressure you put
Russell Gammon Safaris
Bespoke Guiding and Keynote Speaking
service for visiting conference and incentive,
special interest, VIP and series tour groups.
Situated in the old part of Victoria Falls. An easy ten
minutes walk to the town centre and thirty minutes to the
Falls themselves. 3 room with twin beds - 1 room with
double bed All of our rooms include en suite facilities.
Reynard Road 546, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Telephone: +263 77 288 20 33
E-mail address: [email protected]
www.mandebelelodge.com
Victoria Falls Livingstone Chobe
email: [email protected]
www.victoriafallsheritagetours.com
“We’ve waited for over
two years to come here.
That is a long time, during
which we’ve realised how
great this project actually
is. If it wasn’t the very best,
we wouldn’t have waited
for two years to experience this moment and get
this incredible chance. We
will never forget our time
here in Zimbabwe and our
African highline, which we
named ‘NyamiNyami’ after
the Zambezi River God.
Continued to page 10
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
VICTORIA FALLS
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
7
8
VICTORIA FALLS
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
COMMUNITY
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
TEAM BUILDING
The one-week
classroom block
Happy, exhausted and united
ZT CORRESPONDENT
www.wilderness-safaris.com
www.childreninthewilderness.com
Source: WILDERNESS SAFARIS
T
Students in classroom and new furniture
GUY COCKROFT
[email protected]
Limited space indoors
meant that most lessons were
conducted outdoors under
the shade of nearby trees;
during the rains, however, this
became a challenge as the
structures struggled to accommodate all 217 students at any
one time.
The charity, Children in
the Wilderness Zimbabwe,
was eager to assist the school
in its plight and, with funding
provided by Grand Circle
Foundation USA and the
Ladies Jabulani Fundraising Committee of Blackbutt
Hotel in Australia, was able to
install and furnish a two-room
modular classroom block at
the school.
These ‘Zimba’ modular
classrooms are produced in
Zimbabwe and are being used
extensively in rural areas due
to their practical structure,
easy installation and reasonable cost when compared
to a conventional building.
Construction of the classrooms at Jabulani took less
than a week; the concrete slab
was laid in two days by a local
construction company and the
A bit of adrenalin kick-starts the team building experience
www.wildhorizons.co.za
T
Modular classroom going up
Zimba installation team from
Harare finished the building
in two days.
The new two-room
classroom block, valued at
US$15,800, is made from
chroma-deck sheeting. Internal walls are insulated with
cladding so that posters and
charts can be displayed for
the students as well as helping
with insulation. The roofing
is also lined which, together
with the wall cladding, will
help cool the classrooms
during the warmer months.
Having a classroom
without furniture was the next
challenge, but Grand Circle
Foundation once again came
to the rescue and provided
funding to purchase 24 infant
double desks, 48 infant chairs
and one teacher’s desk and
chair, with a total value of
US$2,437. The classrooms will
greatly benefit generations
of children to come during
their formative years and, for
Jabulani Primary, represent a
dream become reality.
eam building packages
are in high
demand in
Victoria Falls and Wild
Horizons has launched two
products to cater for this
specific corporate requirement. Named the ‘Batoka
Gorge Challenge’ and the
‘Zambezi River Challenge’,
the products build on
Wild Horizon’s resources,
equipment, skills and
experience in the adventure activity market. The
products have been carefully
choreographed by head of
operations and high-wire
expert, Clive Bradford, who
has years of experience in
the field.
In the Batoka Gorge
Challenge, teams can look
forward to three unique
events in an afternoon,
involving the use of existing
high-wire attractions (to
get the adrenalin pumping),
an epic battle that requires
sharp orienteering skills and
a keen eye for target practice - not using firearms, but
inflated water balloons!
SOURCE: WILD HORIZONS
he Jabulani
Primary
School, situated
approximately
22km from Victoria Falls in
Zimbabwe, has come from
very humble beginnings. Until
this year, classrooms consisted
of two rudimentary thatched
structures: a small rondavel for
Grades 00 and 0 and a very
rustic three-room building for
Grades 1-7 students.
Teams compete against each other
The packages ensure a lively
and entertaining challenge
with many trials, tribulations
and laughs along the way.
In the more extensive
Zambezi River Challenge,
teams face an afternoon of
seven different challenges that
involve (among other events)
raft races through the rapids
of the Zambezi, a treasure
hunt through a local market,
face painting, tree abseiling,
‘wildlife soccer’ and more. The
afternoon is finished off with
a cruise on the upper Zambezi
where the group can reminisce on the day’s activities
and build on their new-found
team spirit, while enjoying a
scenic dinner together on
the river.
“We’ve crafted these
events to ensure the group
leaves happy, exhausted
and, most importantly,
evermore cohesive as a
team,” said Wilma Griffith,
team building product
specialist. “Of course every
group is unique and we will
always tailor-make a brilliant team building strategy
to suit the specific requirements of the group.”
Wild Horizons operates
an array of adventure and
adrenalin activities, including white water rafting,
upper Zambezi canoeing,
and highwire experiences
such as the Gorge Swing
and the Vic Falls Canopy
Tour in Victoria Falls.
One stop ground handling and activity provider
Where three countries meet on the banks of the Zambezi
Tom Varley in the wild documenting meercats
Victoria Falls Productions
Private Photography / Videography services
Tom Varley will take high quality Pictures / Video of your
Experience in Africa
We offer a personal service by professional photographers.
We can join your day trip in Chobe, trip to Victoria Falls, or anything
else you’d like to keep a memory of.
Tom Varley, a camera man and a photographer, was raised in the
Zimbabwean bush. His love for the wildlife and the area is reflecting in his
work and led him to publish a coffee table book about Victoria Falls.
Cell: +263 712 616 874 Tel: + 263 13 406 79
Email: [email protected] www.vicfallsproductions.com
Victoria Falls | Livingstone | Chobe
Tours, transfers and activities
White water rafting | Canoeing | Highwire |
Elephant back safaris | Lion encounters | Helicopter flips
Accommodation
Elephant Camp - Luxury accommodation overlooking the gorge.
Imbabala Safari Lodge - Comfortable accommodation, good fishing,
great game viewing on the banks of the Zambezi.
Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571, 42013, 44426 or 44282
Cell: +263 (0) 712 213 721 or + 263 (0) 772 209 118
Email: [email protected] or [email protected]
www.wildhorizons.co.za
VICTORIA FALLS
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
THE STANLEY AND LIVINGSTONE PRIVATE GAME RESERVE AND VICTORIA FALLS
TARYN INGRAM-GILLSON
CONSERVATION
www.mantiscollection.com
www.mantisextreme.com
PHOTOs: TARYN INGRAM-GILLSON
Certified in an
ancient art
Home to the Big 5, the 6000-acre Stanley and Livingstone Private Game Reserve, situated mere minutes from the Victoria Falls,
borders on the Zambezi National Park offering guests a diverse and unique African experience. During the three-hour drive guests
can expect to see the Big 5 along with a great variety of antelope and exceptional bird-life.
Choosing a Big 5 Safari this close to one of the seven natural wonders will provide a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Offering tranquillity and excitement and plenty of activities.
Representing the grandeur of a bygone era, the Stanley and Livingstone Safari lodge allows you to experience one of Africa’s great
holiday destinations in glamour and style.
Guests can also choose to stay at Ursula’s Camp, an intimate private retreat also located on the Stanley & Livingstone Private
Game Reserve. This camp is perfectly suited to families and small groups. The camp offers 4 chalets, accommodating 8 guests in
comfort. Full board, B&B and self-catering are all options.
Stanley & Livingstone Private Game Reserve is also home to the
Bear Grylls Survival Academy in Africa and the Nakavango Conservation Centre
T a k e pa rt i n
• A volunteer programme – recommended stay 2 – 4 weeks, but volunteers can stay for up to three months.
• Nature Guiding Course, 2015 course dates, 9 March – 2 May and 17 August – 10 October
• Eco Odyssey, 2015 course dates, 23 Feb – 16 May and 3 August – 23 October
• Bear Grylls Survival Academy , 2015 course dates, 24 – 31 Jan and 28 Feb – 6 Mar
Experience
Game reserve management | Elephant, rhino and predator research
Community programmes | Environmental education | Raptor conservation
Nocturnal activities | Water conservation | Rhino conservation
www.mantiscollection.com
For enquiries about the Nakavango Conservation Student Programme, please contact
www.nakavango.com
South Africa - TARYN
Email: [email protected]
Tel: +27 41 404 9314
Cell: +27 72 036 9747 or +263 77 872 5617
Bookings
Tel: 041 404 9300/9303
Email: [email protected]
www.worldwideexperience.com/victoria-fallsconservation-programme/.
Zimbabwe - JUSTINE
Email: [email protected]
Tel: +263 13 41005/6/7
Cell: +263 77 564 0351
Direct media
Contact: Mantis PR team
email: [email protected]
T
racking evaluations have
been taking
place for the
last 20 years, according to
standards set by CyberTracker, and in October the
first CyberTracker evaluations in Zimbabwe took
place at the Stanley and
Livingstone Private Game
Reserve.
Eleven candidates
were assessed over
two separate evaluations. Two students
were evaluated as part of a
three month Eco Odyssey
course with Nakavango
Conservation Programme,
and nine rangers of the
IAPF anti-poaching unit
at Stanley and Livingstone
also participated. Evaluations were conducted by
Taryn Ingram-Gillson of
Down to Earth Nature
Training and Mantis’s
Eco Africa Experience,
the brand behind the
Nakavango Conservation
Programme.
The two-day practical
field test emphasised open
dialogue and learning. The
tracks and signs of any and
all species encountered in
the field were questioned,
whether big or small, clear
or obscure. After participants gave their answers,
discussion between the
evaluator and participants
provided the opportunity
for everyone involved
to learn the field marks.
Participants were given a
percentage obtained for the
evaluation, determining the
level of proficiency achieved:
• Level 1: 70 – 79%
• Level 2: 80 – 89%
• Level 3: 90 – 99%
• Professional: 100%
One of the objectives of
CyberTracker is for the art
of tracking to be recognised
as a specialised profession. Trackers can play an
important role in research,
monitoring, ecotourism,
anti-poaching and crime
prevention in nature
reserves and national
parks. The employment
and recognition of trackers will also help to retain
traditional skills that may
otherwise be lost.
The founder of
Cybertracker Conservation, Louis Liebenberg,
witnessed a steep decline
in traditional tracking
skills in southern
Africa. As a means
to identify those
dwindling few with
excellent tracking
skills, and to help
rebuild a body of
tracking knowledge,
Liebenberg designed
the first CyberTracker
Tracker Evaluation in
the Thornybush Game
Reserve near Kruger
National Park in 1994.
Since then, the evaluation system has become
the National Standard
for South Africans
certified to work within
ecotourism, as well as an
international standard for
wildlife tracking skills in
an increasing number of
countries, including the
USA and Spain.
Since 1994 more than
4,500 certificates have
been issued to more than
2,500 qualified trackers.
The candidates evaluated
at Stanley and Livingstone achieved excellent
results, showcasing the
level of skills in Zimbabwe, with two Level 1,
three Level 2 and six
Level 3 awards.
The certificate awards
ceremony was memorable and moving, especially
with the anti-poaching
rangers achieving recognition for skills which they
use on a daily basis in
protecting one of Zimbabwe’s greatest natural
assets, the black rhino.
In July this year,
the senior members of
CyberTracker founded
the Tracker Association,
aimed at representing
anyone who uses tracking professionally, or
who has an interest in
tracking. The association
also provides a platform
for sharing information
about tracking around the
world and will play a role
in upholding standards
worldwide.
9
10
VICTORIA FALLS
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
ACTIVITY
On safari on an elephant
presents if unsuccessful at first.
KENT DAVIS
[email protected]
www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com
SOURCE: SHEARWATER VICTORIA FALLS
E
lephant-back
safaris are a
popular activity
in Victoria Falls;
Shearwater keeps a herd of 12
elephant on the Stanley and
Livingstone estate just outside
the town.
Just like humans, elephants
can be fickle in choosing
whom they like. Some bond
with every trainer or ‘induna’,
others with only a few. It is
pointless for a human to try
and ingratiate himself with
a reluctant elephant– the
elephant makes the choices.
The first elephant ride is
at 8.15am so those needed
are ridden by their indunas
through the bush, grazing
along the way, until they
reach the embarkation boma.
Those not required for rides
will roam free for six hours
until 1pm. The free group
will be followed from at least
50m behind by two or three
indunas, and the herd will
broadly stick together and not
split up in different directions. Elephant are rotated for
afternoon rides, unless all
are booked up, but either
Game viewing on the back of an elephant is one of the most popular activities in Victoria Falls
way they have free time for
grazing for a maximum of 11
hours, but always a minimum
of about five. When returning
to stables, or if needed for an
afternoon safari, the induna
merely calls the head of the
herd and the members will
begin to follow.
On safari the elephant take
a maximum of two clients
(and very often only one) and
one induna on a 45 minute
ride through the bush, eating
as nature allows along the way.
An elephant can comfortably
carry up to one third of its
bodyweight on such a walk. Wild elephant have been
known to draw away Shearwater females on heat. In such
circumstances, the indunas
cannot interfere. These
females may go off with their
wild suitors - as Mgoti did
recently – for as long as three
months. They are never forced
to return, but when a missing
elephant is spotted out in
the bush, the indunas will try
and coax her back with treats,
and then introduce the other
Shearwater elephants to the
area.When it is time to return
to stables, the normal procedure will be followed and the
eloper will choose whether to
follow or not. And the process
repeats when opportunity
During the dry season of
May to October, the herd
likes to roam close to the
river and the dams to wallow
to cool themselves. The bush
towards the latter months
becomes very dry – and
grazing opportunities are not
so great – so they are given
extra supplements of hay,
molasses and their particular
favourite, watermelon. During the rainy season
from November to April, the
bush becomes a verdant larder
brimful of delicious elephant
fodder – and of course
throughout the day they are
given game nuts by their
indunas and passengers, and
have become well accustomed
to being the stars of the show.
The entire herd is given
regular health checks, not only
FACTfile
On a highline over the Falls
Continued from page 6
What exactly is
slacklining?
Slacklining is a balance
sport practised on a stretchy,
synthetic webbing line (about
2.5cm-5cm wide) which is
fixed between two points.
“Slack“, of course, means
the opposite of “taut“ and
this tells us that the line has a
certain amount of “give“ .
Slacklining is a kind of
dynamic balancing which is
very different from balancing
on a taut steel cable (static
balancing). Because of the
dynamic properties of the
web, instead of remaining
in a single position to retain
balance, one has to keep
re-establishing it by constant
movement in a variety of
positions. Setting up a
slackline is simplicity itself
and can be done almost
anywhere.
Where does it come
from?The development of
slacklining is closely linked
to the legendary Camp 4
in the Yosemite Valley and
the climbing scene there.
It was in the 1960s that
climbers started to pass
PHOTO: TOM VARLEY
So what is life like for
the dung-dropping dozen?
Reveille is at 6am and 30
minutes is then spent on the
training ground. Calls and
commands are based solely on
a reward system. It is now well
documented in the 20 year old
elephant back safari industry
that an elephant responds
well to kindness and good
treatment - and who would
want to incur the wrath of 12
elephant?
to establish general health and
fitness for rides, but also to
check if diets need altering, or
extra calories added.
Lukas Irmler and Reinhard Kleindl enjoying a quiet moment at the Falls
their leisure time by balancing
on barrier chains. In the early
1980s, Adam Grosowsky
came across this new pastime,
which by this time had become
widespread there, when he
visited the camp. Back in
Olympia, Washington, he and
his friend Jeff Ellington started
experimenting with climbing
ropes. They then moved on to
be the first to rig a tubular band
of the kind used in climbing,
and that marked the birth of
slacklining as we know it today:
the art of balancing on stretchy,
flat, synthetic webbing.
An interesting variation of
the slackline is the so-called
WATERLINE. As the name
suggests, this is a slackline set
up above water. One difficulty
it shares with a highline is
that of visual orientation in
space. Unlike grass or sand,
however, the surface of water
is reflective and it moves. This
gives a false visual impression
and misleading information
about one’s actual position
and balancing thus becomes
considerably more difficult.
This is what makes waterlining
particularly attractive.
What are the different
forms of the sport?
Basically, the sport can be
divided into two main groups:
lowlining and highlining, the
difference being in the height at
which the slackline is fixed.
HIGHLINING is the most
extreme form of the sport.
The line is no longer fixed at
jumping height but at dizzying
levels above ravines, between
treetops or rocky outcrops.
Highlining is a specialist area
that requires a high degree
of expertise not only where
moving safely on the slackline
is concerned, but also in
the mastery of materials and
methods of securing oneself
on the line. Traditionally, the
highliner is attached to the
line by a so-called highline
leash: a length of climbing
rope is usually tied to a
harness while steel rings are
secured to the other end
and threaded onto the line
and thus follow the slackliner
as he moves. Essentials for
highlining include the safe
rigging of the line which
must incorporate back-up
and sufficient excess, and
proficiency at line catching
(the term used for catching
the line to avoid falling
unrestrained on the leash).
Mental training is also
indispensable.
The difficulty of highlining
lies in its psychological
aspects as well as in factors
like materials and securing
techniques. Just because
a person has no problems
moving on a slackline does
not mean they are ready to try
out their skills on a highline.
Source :http://www.outdoorsportsteam.com/en/slacklining/
history/
VICTORIA FALLS
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
11
FASHION AND JEWELLERY
When chaos becomes creation
CHRISTIE BROOKSTEIN
[email protected]
www.sdr.co.za
www.ndaucollection.com
A
drenalin kicks in
as the bass beat
starts, the ramp
lights up and out
strut the impossibly gorgeous,
six foot tall, other worldly
creatures known as models.
It’s the culmination of weeks
of sleepless nights and intense
design energy from the team
at The Ndau Collection – it’s
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week
Africa!
Held at Melrose Arch in
Johannesburg, this year Ndau
was on the ramp with Intisaar,
accessorising her eclectic
collection of hand-knits and
geometric prints. As part
of the opening show with
Kibbonen, a Cameroonian
designer based in New York,
we were the only Zimbabwean showing and, as always,
it was fashion week madness.
Sitting in the front row
was Melissa Mazingi, the
winner of our competition
to join us at Fashion Week.
This is the final polished act,
Models with Ndau Jewellery accessories
accomplished and that the
eyes of the world will be on
our tiny studio in Victoria
Falls when we reveal what we
have created.
collaborate with Intisaar and
the collection is only in our
heads. Intisaar sends through
some first mock-up sketches
and a scan of her fabrics and
we need to translate our vision
into a cohesive collection.
It quickly becomes
Zimbabwean-born designer, Intisaar Mukadam
obtained her BA (Honours) Fashion Design
degree in the UK, in 2010. She has become
an International name after launching her label,
Intisaar M, in Harare, in December 2010
where beautiful women glide
down a white runway, expertly
made-up and coiffed, lit to
perfection, in time to great
tracks mixed by Dino Moran
- and it finally all makes sense
– the story of the collection
is clear.
Wind back six weeks
to when we are asked to
clear that we’re working
with geometric shapes and
contrasting them against the
natural materials that are core
to our design ethos. This leads
us to looking at the Chaos
Theory; we discover the work
of the esoteric mathematician,
Mandelbrot, and our collection comes together under the
PHOTOS: SIMON DEINER OF SDR
theme The Fractal Geometry
of Form.
From our sketches, Joe
and the team create the 3D
pieces and we bead and trim
all hours of the day. When
the team is under this much
pressure we work like a
machine, knowing without
discussing what needs to be
exotic leather and unique african jewellery
@ Elephant’s Walk Shopping village,Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
[email protected] www.ndaucollection.com
As the last frantic change
takes place backstage, where
five people dress a model who
stands like a statue for the
30 seconds given, we breathe
a huge sigh and rush to the
monitors to watch the final
walkout. Now it’s all about
the audience reaction – loud
cheers and clapping mean it’s
a success!
12
VICTORIA FALLS
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
CONSERVATION
CONSERVATION
Snare-injured kudu gets treated
Celebrity event on the river
ZT CORRESPONDENT
www.vfapu.com
1
2
ZT CORRESPONDENT
W
ire snares
used by
bush-meat
poachers to
capture and kill animals cause
www.vfapu.com www.vicfallswildlifetrust.com
untold suffering. Recently, a
female kudu was reported to
have a badly injured ear; it was
swollen and hanging from the
base (image 1).
3
The kudu was found and,
on close examination, it could
be seen that wire from a snare
had cut into the ear, nearly
severing it. In a joint effort
After 110 years still the finest dining in Victoria Falls
PHOTOS: CHARLES BRIGHTMAN
4
between the Victoria Falls
Anti-Poaching Unit and the
Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust,
the kudu was darted (images
2 and 3) to see if the ear could
be saved, but it had to be
amputated as it was too badly
damaged.
The kudu has been seen
often since; it has recovered
well and has adjusted to
having only one ear (image 4).
VFAPU scouts welcome guests on arrival
O
perational
since 1999,
Victoria Falls
Anti-Poaching
Unit has a team of 17 men
on the ground patrolling
Victoria Falls town and
an outer radius of 50km2,
clearing snares and looking
for other illegal poaching
activities.
David Gower OBE,
former English cricketer
who captained England
during the 1980s, was the
guest of honour at the
annual fundraiser in Victoria
Falls for the VFAPU.
This year the event was
organised by Victoria Falls
resident,Tonya Meikle. The
owners of a luxury cruise
boat, the Zambezi Explorer,
offered the vessel and staff
PHOTO: HEATHER STEYN
free of charge for the function, while businesses from
all sectors supported the
fundraiser with furnishings,
snacks, drinks, meat and
prizes for the raffle.
The turnout surpassed
all expectations and guests
arrived in high spirits
looking forward to an
evening on the Zambezi. As
the boat cruised up the river,
guests were entertained by
an accomplished singer and
guitarist, with a magnificent
sunset as his backdrop.
The vessel docked as
night fell and dinner was
served in ‘grand café’ style
on the deck. After dinner,
guests continued to enjoy
time on the river, dancing
and listening to the music
until late.
Plus Plan Savings Account
The Livingstone Room
Enjoy a special evening of dinner and dancing with Edwardian
elegance in the prestigious Livingstone Room. Savour a classic
seven course tasting menu complemented by a comprehensive
selection of imported wines and liqueurs.
Jungle Junction
Continental and full English breakfast is served in the morning and in
the evening lavish buffets infused with the flavours
of Africa and traditional African cultural entertainment will delight you. Perfect for groups or
individuals alike and value for money.
Telephone: +263-13-44751-61
Mobile: +263 772 132 174 or +263 772 132 175
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Email: [email protected] www.victoriafallshotel.com
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Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
VICTORIA FALLS
ENTOMOLOGY
13
RESEARCH
The value of your photos
PHOTO: STEPHANIE PERIQUET
Finding (or avoiding)
mopane bees
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Female cheetah HNP012 as a cub
DR ESTHER VAN DER MEER
Cheetah Conservation Project
Zimbabwe
Map showing distribution of Mopane Bees in Zambezi National Park
BOB MANDINYENYA
[email protected]
www.lionencounter.com
M
opane bees,
Trigona
bottegoi,
are insects
which are found in the insect
order Hymenoptera and
sub-family Meliponidae. Five
genera of this sub-family are
known to occur in this region.
Mopane bees have very
small bodies (length 4mm)
which are black and covered
with white hairs. Their
segments of abdomen have
reddish-brown bands and
their wings are clear. Mopane
bees are eusocial and are
known to nest in existing
cavities lined with a mixture
of wax, mud, resin and plant
material.
Adults feed on plant
sap, fruit juice and nectar,
honeydew from coccids and
membracids, and pollen. Their
hives are always underground
and the honey in the hives
tastes very good and is eaten
throughout Africa. They are
active all year round, although
they are less active in cooler
weather, with some species
presenting diapause.
Although they are stingless, they are also well known
for being extremely irritating
in the field especially when
they are trying to collect
moisture or take any fluid
they can find from human
eyes, nose or mouth. We
should all understand that this
is their natural behaviour and
it assists their survival in high
temperatures.
The entomology survey
within the Zambezi National
Park which Lion Encounter and Zimbabwe Parks
and Wildlife Management
Authority are carrying out has
encountered these stingless
bees with different frequency
within various vegetation
types. The map shows where
people are most likely to
encounter mopane bees.
Despite their being a
nuisance at times, people
FACTfile
Guidance for the lay
person reading this
article:
eusocial – describes
creatures who exist in
groups with complex
forms of social
organisation
diapause – a period
during which growth
and development
is suspended
and physiological
activity diminished in
unfavourable conditions
coccids - scale insects
and mealy bugs
membracids – tree
hoppers and thorn bugs
should not worry about these
bees as they can easily be
stopped from getting into the
eyes, ears, nose or mouth by
simply wearing a face net or
using insect repellent when
going into areas where you are
likely to encounter them.
[email protected]
www.cheetahzimbabwe.org
facebook.com/cheetahzimbabwe
C
heetah
Conservation Project
Zimbabwe
has received reports of
more than 1,000 sightings and 3,500 cheetah
pictures from the public
during the last three years.
Cheetah can be identified
based on their unique coat
markings. The sightings
and pictures have not only
enabled us to identify 74
individual cheetah from all
over Zimbabwe, but can
also allow us to follow some
individuals throughout
their life without actually
seeing them.
Do you, for example,
remember the female
cheetah that gave birth to
three cubs on the Wild
Horizons concession in
2012? Once the cubs were
large enough to follow their
mother, the cheetah family
frequently crossed the road
to the Stanley and Livingstone concession and was
even sighted in the Zambezi
National Park.
With a last sighting in
2013, they disappeared off
the radar until four months
ago, when the Hwange Lion
Research Project picked up
two of the offspring, now
adults, on their camera trap
survey in Matetsi. The two
brothers, which, according
to cheetah tradition, will stay
together for life, look healthy
and seem to have settled
down 70km from where they
were born.
Thanks to the large
number of tourists, guides
and researchers in the field,
we receive a lot of information from Hwange National
Park. In 2011 we received a
picture of a cheetah mother
with three cubs: one male and
two females. The family was
regularly photographed, and
we saw the cubs turn into
adults. Even when, at eighteen months old, the cubs
left their mother, we continued to receive sightings.
For a while we lost track
of the youngsters, with the
last sighting dating back to
June 2013. However, at the
beginning of 2014 one of
the female offspring, now
an adult herself,was sighted
in the area where she was
born, with two cubs of her
own. Unfortunately, shortly
after, one of these cubs was
killed by a leopard. To our
surprise, six months later
this female’s sister was
photographed in the same
area with three cubs. The
sisters’ cubs are now past
their first most vulnerable
six months which bodes
well for their survival.
As you can see, your
sightings and/or pictures
give us invaluable insight
into the population size and
life history of the cheetah.
So if you have come across
a cheetah in Zimbabwe
please let us know.
[email protected]
www.imvelosafarilodges.com
+263 9 252 232
Imvelo offers 4 unique and exclusive lodges in magnificent locations in Hwange and Victoria Falls.
We’re not only about luxurious lodges & unforgettable safari experiences - we are also deeply
involved with our local communities & wildlife.
Come & enjoy a safari of a life time!
Gorges Lodge - Bomani Tented Lodge - Camelthorn Lodge - Zambezi Sands River Camp
Discover the natural wonders and wildlife of Zimbabwe with Wild
Frontiers Explorer Mobile Safaris, or relax in your luxury tent at Pioneers
Camp on the banks of the Upper Zambezi River and ponder your day
ahead, with a choice of game viewing, canoeing, boating, fishing or
guided walking - just a stone’s throw from Victoria Falls.
[email protected]
www.pioneerscamp.com
[email protected]
www.wildfrontiers.com
Tel:+263 13 45139 Cell:+263 77 817 3398 or +263 77 467 1366
VICTORIA FALLS
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
EDUCATION
SOURCE: GAIL AMYOT
Calling the
youth of Africa
FRANCES JACKSON
[email protected]
Z
ambezi Traveller spoke to Gail
Amyot, one of
the driving forces
supporting Sam Nkomo’s
500km rhino and elephant
awareness walk from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls. Sam
and his team entertained
and educated thousands of
children who live alongside
Zimbabwe’s wildlife.
A large group of children listened
attentively to Sam’s awareness talk
See more in the Bulawayo
and Matopos Section on
page 18.
ZT : How did you and Sam meet?
I met Sam through
answering his appeal for help
on Face Book.
ZT: Who were your team for this campaign?
CLASSIFIEDS
Activities
B&B
your free guided tour.. Stop in at our
Leather Shop and purchase something
from our vast range of handmade,
genuine leather products. Entry Fee =
Adults $5 – Children $3 Contact: +263
(0) 13 43576
The Zambezi Helicopter Company:
View the vastness of the Victoria Falls
and its surrounds the best way! Take a
helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent
splendour of the Zambezi River and its
Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter
Company, Box 125, Victoria Falls,
Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569,
cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0)
712 324 422. Tel/fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc.reservations@highestec.
co.zw . Skype: zambezihelicopters
Web site: www.zambezihelicopters.com
Lorrie’s B&B, Victoria Falls: Full English
breakfast. Ensuite rooms. Home cooked
dinners. Your home away from home.
Phone +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0)
712 406 584. Email: lorrie@mweb.
co.zw. 10% discount on production of this
advertisement. Find us on Facebook.
Laundry Service
Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria
Falls Rest Camp, Lodge 17. Open daily.
Contact +263 (0) 40509-11 or +263 (0)772
347687.
Artists and Art
Galleries
The Larry Norton Gallery: Original
and reproduced fine art wildlife and
landscape images available from this
renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery
in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel.
You will find us in the Stables Lounge.
Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263
(0) 13 40076. Email: info@larrynorton.
co.za and website: www.larrynorton.
co.za
Butchery
Crocodile Farm: Come spend time
with 35,000 crocs and other wild animals
– Open every day 08:00 – 17:00. Croc
Feeding 11:15 and 15:45. Vulture Feeding
10:30. Complimentary tea/coffee after
We held regular
ZT : How many children did Sam talk to
along the way?
Hotels & Lodges
Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh
Heaven Foods (Pvt) Ltd: 523 Reynard
Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways, catering
for functions. Specialises in snacks
and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry
Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348.
Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) 775
121 406. Email: [email protected]
Elephant Camp: The Elephant Camp is
a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas
only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all
its attractions and activities, yet secluded
in its own private game reserve so as to
allow close up encounters with wildlife.
Email: [email protected]
Charity
Once a month a number of Victoria Falls
residents put together ‘goodie parcels’
with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for
elderly people in the community who are
struggling to make ends meet. Anyone
wishing to contribute to this can email
Cathrina Gover: [email protected] and
Mel Hudson: [email protected]
Rotary Club of Victoria Falls
meets every Thursday at Ilala Lodge
between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For
further information please contact
our club President Joshua Ncube
+263712207368/+263773166660 or our
Immediate Past President Anne Taggart on
+263 (0)772 254552 or our club secretary
Barbara on +263 (0)773 228084.
FRESH PRODUCE
Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge:
Located in the Matetsi Safari
Area with 14km of Zambezi River
frontage, Imbabala is renowned for its
game viewing and bird watching.
Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426.
Email: [email protected] .
www.wildhorizons.co.za
The Victoria Falls Hotel: ***** Situated
in a world heritage site, the legendary
Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the
magnificent Falls. This gracious 1904
hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that
recall the romance of days gone by.
Contact Sales and Marketing Manager.
Email: [email protected].
Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9.
The Victoria Falls Hotel: Stanley’s
Terrace, cosmopolitan lunch.
The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room,
fine dining with a 7 course menu.
The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction,
international buffet and African
Spectacular show. For bookings, contact
+263 (0) 44751/9, email : marketing@tvfh.
africansun.co.zw.
Restaurants
Fruit and Veg Mart: 795 Aerodrome,
Medium Density, Victoria Falls
Suppliers of household vegetables,
fruit, groceries, meat, confectionery and
refreshment juices etc. Open 7.00am to
8.00pm 7 days a week. Contact Numbers 0772 462343,
0772 399779, 0716 355194.
Victoria Falls Hair Salon: We do
all types of hairstyles, manicures and
pedicures. 307 Parkway Drive. Tel + 263
13 40981, Cell + 263 712 716 930
In-da-Belly Bar and Cafe: Located
within the Victoria Falls Rest Camp on
Parkway Drive. Open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner. Good food, great
value, superb atmosphere. Tel : +263 13
40501/11. Email: indabelly@restcamp.
co.zw
www.discovervictoriafalls.com
It is important that the
African youth take ownership and pride in their
natural heritage, and the
only way this will happen
is through education and
exposure. Well done
to Sam for getting this
message across to so many
children.
[email protected] +263 (0) 772 101 578
Pest Control
Ginomai Arete Services: For
advanced outdoor electronic mosquito
and insect control over vast space,
acres. Odourless and allergen free,
cockroach, termite, fly, ant, flea, rodent
and spider elimination. As well as bat
control, snake and gecko repellants.
Contact : Donald +263 774885831 Suite
10 at 320 Clark Rd, Victoria Falls above
OK shop
REST CAMPS
Specialised SERVICES
on surface type For use : Camps –
household – industrial – any wilderness
area – excellent for tents Not harmful to
birds and geckos
CONTACT : PETER JACKSON, +263 (0)
279 22964, +263 (0) 712 231921 OR +
263 (0) 774 303649 [email protected]
Teak Lamps: Manufacturers of solid
teak bedside table and floor lamps. As
well as making lamp shades to suit.
Contact us for any inquiries or pictures:
Cell: +263 (0) 772 356 651
Email: [email protected]
Badges: For all your name badges,
key-rings, engraving and more…
Contact us: Cell: +263 772 356 651
Email: [email protected]
Specialist Guide
Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in
the town centre offers affordable, safe
accommodation. Includes self catering
lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi-luxury
tents and camping. Along with a tours &
internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant.
Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email:
[email protected]
Repairs &
Workshops
Amherst Engineering T/A Zambezi
Motors: for vehicle repairs and
maintenance, contact Roy: +263 712 747
306, Shayle: +263 772 284 689.
Discover Safaris Charles Brightman P
O Box CT 544 Victoria Falls Zimbabwe,
Tel/Fax + 263 13 45821, Cell + 263 712
209144 or + 263 917 747 426, Skype :
charlesbrightman. Specialising in walking
safaris, game drives, bird watching trips
and tailor-made safaris. Finalist in the
Safari Awards Category. Best Personal
Contribution to Wildlife Conservation,
www.safariawards.com/winners11.
Screenprinting
Screenworks: For all your screen
printing requirements, T/shirts, banners,
posters etc. Call Zenzo + 263 775
728342 / + 263 712 614244.
Email [email protected]
16 Sopers Arcade, Victoria Falls.
Walking Safaris
Bird Watching Safaris
Special interest Safaris
& more...
Cell: 0712 209 144 Tel/fax: 013 45821 Email: [email protected]
New Seven Eleven (Ex Little Harrods)
– Now Open - A new Seven Eleven
convenience and bottle store has opened
up in the residential area of Victoria
Falls. Open 7 days a week 7am to 8pm
daily. We cater for all your food and
drink needs during your stay in Vic Falls. Situated on the corner of Manyika and
Reynard Roads. Contact us on (013)
43429
PITT BOSS GREEN–
BIODEGRADABLE-FAST ACTING Septic
tanks, Blair toilets, Sewerage works
Clears blockages . Recommend
maintenance programme every 6 months
For use : Camps – household – industrial
– any wilderness area
CONTACT : PETER JACKSON, +263 (0)
279 22964, +263 (0) 712 231921 OR +
263 (0) 774 303649 [email protected]
Kay MacDonald, +263 (0) 279 27968 +263 (0) 778553202 / +263 (0)771002793
email: [email protected]
K-OTHRINE WG 250 (GREEN LABEL )
Broad spectrum , fast acting, water
dispersible insecticide for residual
surface application, to be used for the
control of adult mosquitoes, sand flies,
fleas and bed bugs.
K-OTHRINE WG250 is a 25% water
dispersible granular formulation. It is a
better alternative to liquids (suspension
concentrate) and a replacement for
conventional wettable powders because
of reduced operator exposure, reduced
bulk thus reducing storage and transport,
cost, no staining and good residual
activity . Long residual action depending
Take-Away
Wok ‘n Roll: The Wok ‘n Roll offers
a selection of oriental dishes, game
burgers, rolls and a delicious kiddies
menu. Offering a healthier and exciting
choice of food for the whole family.
Located on the corner just down from the
Seven Eleven. Contact us on cell : 0771 142 749
Upholstery
VICTORIA
FALLS
EN C
ID
Y
Game Drives
zimbabwe
His main point was that
we are the caretakers for
the generations to come
and that this is an awesome
responsibility. He explained
that the wonderful wildlife
populations in this country
provide life, pride, incomes
and are the backbone of the
entire tourist industry. One of
the projects which will be
continued by the parent
body is the Rhino, Elephant
and Environment Trust, a
‘Whistleblower’ Programme
with the communities
surrounding the game park
in Matobo National Park, as
well as supporting the antipoaching units operating
there.
Specialised SERVICES
CONVENIENCE STORE
Victoria Falls
Approximately 10,000
children were involved. I think
the record was 700 children
in one day. We realised just
how important this endeavour
was, as often it was apparent
that the children knew little
or nothing about rhino and
elephant.
ZT: What is Sam’s key message and the
legacy of this project?
Advertise in Victoria Falls Classifieds
Catering Services
HAIR SALON
For all your beef, chicken, pork, lamb,
fish and dairy products. Biltong only
19.90 per kg. La Lucie Coffee available
meetings with ZimParks,
ZRP, EMRAS, Bulawayo
City Council and the Mayor,
the Natural History Museum,
Road Departments and the
press, notably Southern Eye
and the Sunday News. The
support given by all these
stakeholders was outstanding, but none more so than
ZimParks, who provided
armed rangers to walk the
entire route with Sam.
Rangers came from the different areas of Matobo, Hwange
Main, Sinamatella, Matetsi.
On one morning Sam and
party walked close by lion and
elephant. Enough said!
Victoria falls
Rotary Club of Hwange, District 9210,
meets every Thursday at the Hwange
Colliery Company Little Theatre between
1730 and 1900pm. Please call Mugove
Hamadziripi, Club President for further
details on 0712 263 931 or 0772 428 806.
Email: [email protected].
Wild Horizons is a ‘one-stop’ activity
provider offering a range of tours and
activities including rafting, canoeing,
elephant back safaris and high wire
activities. Email: [email protected]
Croc Cage Diving: Elephant’s
Walk Shopping Village, Victoria
Falls. Telephone + 263 0774 750
661. email: [email protected]
Novuyo Mathonsi
from ZTA together with
David and Judith Smith did
truly excellent work pulling
together the Ministry of
Education and the Forestry
Commission. Mrs Mguni, the
Provincial Education Director
and Mr Tembo, the Chief
Conservator, Forestry
Commission, were both
more than enthusiastic and
co-operative and were responsible for getting thousands of
school children to meet Sam
along the way. Other committee members were Floyd
Ambrose on logistics, Peter
Ishemunyoro, Lizzy Murandu
and Khanyile Dhlamini.
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
W
14
VICTORIA
FALLS
Widency: For all your canvas and
tarpaulin products, game drive vehicle
seats and canopies, boats, blinds.
Office and household furniture. Contact
Hudson on 0773 000888/9. Located 82
Pioneer Road, Vic Falls.
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
ZIMBABWE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
HWANGE
On your way to the Zambezi
15
issue 10 for ipad app only
HYAENA
The balance in the wild
Hwange), and scavenging very
large carcasses. But bigger lion
prides with more adult males
were most probably able to
kill more elephant and giraffe,
therefore providing more very
large carcasses for hyaena to
scavenge.
Stéphanie Périquet
[email protected]
http://www.za-hwange.org/
Presentation/
http://shumbafrica.eklablog.com
H
yaena and lion
are the eternal
enemies in
the African
savanna. Hyaena were long
thought to be scavengers
feeding on lion kills and even
stealing the big cats’ meals,
but we now know that they
are also skilful hunters capable
of taking on prey as big as
wildebeest.
These two carnivores are
the biggest and most numerous on the African savanna.
And because of their position
on top of the food chain, as
well as their charisma, it is
important to understand how
they coexist with each other
to design sound conservation
plans.
One thing we didn’t really
know was how hyaena would
adjust their diet and feeding
strategy (hunting versus
scavenging and stealing lion
FACTfile - Hwange hyaena
PHOTOs: STEPHANIE PERIQUET
Of course hyaena also
scavenge when presented with
the opportunity, and they are
the best equipped predator
in the savanna for this kind
of activity. And yes, they also
manage to steal prey from
lion when they outnumber
them and no big male lion is
present.
These findings emphasise
the fact that everything in
the wild is about equilibrium,
and this allows for supposedly
competing species to coexist
with each other. This balance
is what every single conservation programme should aim
to protect at all costs.
Hyaena from the Makwa clan with a GPS collar allowing us to follow her movements
Everything in the wild is about equilibrium,
allowing for supposedly competing species
to coexist with each other. This balance is
what every single conservation programme
should aim to protect at all costs.
kills) to changes in competition pressure with lion. As
it happens, there have been
important changes in the
lion population in Hwange
following a moratorium on
the trophy hunting of lion
between 2005 and 2008.
Following the hunting
ban, lion pride sizes quickly
increased and adult males
were also more numerous and
more often seen with their
prides (but see the work of
Hwange Lion Research from
WildCRU, Oxford University,
for more details).
Previous researchers on the
hyaena project ( Julia Salnicki
and Nolwenn DrouetHoguet) collected hyaena
scats and observed them
feeding on carcasses between
1999 and 2006. During my
PhD fieldwork from 2010
to 2013, I collected the exact
same data, so I was able to
determine how hyaena diet
changed between these two
periods of different competition pressure from lion.
What I found is really
exciting! During the period
with fewer lion, hyaena
could easily steal lion kills
and defend their own, and
their diet was mostly zebra,
wildebeest, kudu and buffalo.
In contrast, during the period
with more lion, hyaena diet
consisted of a lot of elephant
and giraffe, and fewer other
species.
These changes in diet
tell us that hyaena used to
hunt quite a lot when fewer
lion were around, as well as
steal lion kills (buffalo are
the preferred prey for lion in
A group a hyaena from the Makwa clan greet each other at Sinanga
after spending the night feasting on an elephant carcass
1999-2003: Start of the
Spotted Hyaena Project in
Hwange National Park by
Julia Salnicki, working with
the Zimbabwe Parks and
Wildlife Authority Carnivore
Research Unit. This first
work focused on identifying
clan sizes, the extent of their
territories and their diet in
the Main Camp area.
2004-2006: PhD by
Nolwenn Drouet-Hoguet with
the CIRAD CNRS HERD
Programme (http://www.
za-hwange.org). The goal
was to identify the impact of
food resources produced by
human activities (elephant
culling, ration shooting and
snaring) on hyaena diet and
population in and around
Main Camp.
2000-2013: New start for
the Hyaena project for
Eléonore Hellard PhD on the
different factors influencing
the conflict between hyaena
and local communities
(mainly due to livestock
depredation) around
Hwange. The first five GPS
collars were deployed.
In 2010, this project
changed focus with the start
of a new PhD. Stéphanie
Périquet worked on the
interactions between hyaena
and lion within the Park to
understand the coexistence
of these two charismatic
species. Eight additional
GPS collars were deployed.
“Arrive as guests and leave as friends”
Enjoy home from home comfort and the thrill of
big game viewing at your doorstep.
Affordable, easy access, tranquil atmosphere,
good food, great staff.
Reservations office: +263 13 45139, Mobile: +26 3 (0) 778173398 or (0)774671366 Email: [email protected] www.miombosafaricamp.com
Miombo Is Situated On The Boundary Of The Park 15 Minutes Drive From Main Camp
Find your ‘self’ in Africa
Email: [email protected] | Phone: +263 4 498835 | Website: www.thehide.co.zw
16
HWANGE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
CONSERVATION
A unique bush experience
prides seen at Deteema Picnic
Site in the Robins area. Other
large predators included 233
spotted hyaena, 5 brown
hyaena, 15 wild dog, 4 leopard
and two 2 cheetah. Another
special, roan antelope, were
recorded at Kashawe Viewing
in the Sinamatella area and at
White Hills, Masumamalisa
and Scotts in the Main Camp
area and at Hwange Safari
Lodge.
WEZ thanks the Director
General and staff of Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife
Management Authority, the
private operator, Pat Cox who
carried out our pre-count
aerial survey and all our
participants for making this
enjoyable and successful event
into a unique bush experience.
At the 2014 Hwange Game Count counter Elaine Reed witnessed a crocodile attacking impala, probably a once in a
lifetime sighting
Game counting in
Hwange National Park
PAM BIRCH
[email protected]
T
he Matabeleland
Branch of Wildlife & Environment Zimbabwe
(WEZ) concluded another 24
hour game count in Hwange
National Park and surrounding areas over the full moon
in October. This was the 45th
year of the event.
Some 316 participants
included 70 visitors from
many countries around the
world. Worthy of mention are
Tony and Nicola Park; Tony
is a well-known author, an
Australian now living parttime in South Africa,who
has participated in over ten
Hwange counts and they have
already said, “Count us in
again for next year!” Tony had
a wonderful count this year at
Deteema dam in the Robins
area, recording up to 1,000
buffalo, and lion with them.
In total, 95 teams deployed
for the 24 hour count period.
The final head count was
37,846 animals, representing
42 species. We cannot boast of
counting every creature great
and small, as large areas of the
Park, for example the middle
and southern end sections,
are inaccessible by road,
therefore we regard our count
as a general overview of the
animals and bird life recorded
at each water point we are
able to access. Trends begin
to show over time, with both
ZimParks and other scientists
appreciating the data we
provide.
Conditions for the count
were perfect with a full and
beautiful large moon coming
up in the east as the sun went
down, the moon providing
good visibility at our pans
during the night. At 3pm a
high of 44.9oC was recorded
by the team at Mandavu Dam
in the Sinamatella area, while
a low of 5oC was recorded at
Manga 3, in the Main Camp
area, at 3am.
Not seen at all this year
were our two rhinoceros
species, as well as bush pig,
aardwolf, ant bear, caracal (one
last year), African wild cat,
bat-eared fox, grysbok (three
last year), dassies, genets and
bush babies.
The number of elephant
recorded this year was 22,414
representing 59% of our total
count. Elephant is without
doubt the dominant species,
which is of concern particularly considering the amount
of food available in the Park
for these majestic creatures
during the dry season.
Lion were recorded at a
number of pans throughout
the Park, 88 in total, with
the complete safari
Deep within Northern Hwange National Park
Classic Safari Camp, 8 rooms with en suite facilities
Game Drives Walking Safaris Night Drives
Birding Private waterhole with log hide
An unforgettable
encounter with wild Africa
www.camp-hwange.com
[email protected]
A legacy of land and elephants
ZT CORRESPONDENT
[email protected]
www.gwango.com
W
hen
Elisabeth
Pasalk
was left some land by her
mother, she was told that it
was in an area called Dete.
This did not mean much to
her, and it took her a while
to find where the place was.
Elisabeth was born and
raised in Zimbabwe, but
enjoyed a busy career as a
speaker for scientific career
training programmes.
Before she passed away,
her mother asked Elisabeth
“to take care of the land
and the elephants.” It took
her and husband Danny
some research to understand the legacy and then
to see if they would be able
to adhere to her mother’s
wishes.
Today Hwange
National Park welcomes
a new development on its
northeast boundary, close
to the entry gate to Main
Camp. About 4km from
this point, tucked into the
teak forest, is an open area
rich in mineral salts - over
SOURCE: GWANGO
PHOTO: Elaine Reed
TOURISM
Zimbabwe’s national animal sable antelope at Kanondo Pan in front of
Gwango Elephant Lodge
time, as the animals dug for
these minerals, a series of
waterholes developed, collectively known as Kanondo Pan.
This has become one of the
pans most frequented by the
Presidential Elephants.
Only a short while ago
did Danny and Elisabeth
move from suburbia into a
small dome tent and begin
to map out their plans. The
adjustment was a shock, with
constant animal movement
through their camp area, and
sounds of lion and hyaena
reverberating through their
tent at night and making
them feel extremely vulnerable.
They set about building a
lodge on the edge of the forest
overlooking Kanondo Pan.
Once complete, the lodge will
have an impressive two deck
dining area, seven chalets
tucked into the forest
and four double storey
villas overlooking the
pan, accessible by a raised
walkway. A walkway will
lead to a platform where
guests can view the game
in safety and comfort.
Nearby, an interpretive
centre with a restaurant
is being built which will
have information about
the area’s heritage and a
gift shop supporting local
artists. Local craftsmen,
artists and materials are
being used for all projects.
Located just off the main
road leading into Hwange
National Park, the centre
is accessible to all visitors
and there will be camping
facilities and tented
accommodation suitable
for travellers on a tighter
budget.
HWANGE
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
17
HYAENA
Predators in the wilderness
Photos: MIKE MYERS
Arnold Tshipa is environmental manager for Wilderness Safaris, Zimbabwe and Zambia. He spends his time between working on his Masters degree and being in the
field where he diligently records data. He shares the latest hyaena stories from the company concession in Hwange.
Hyaena are elusive scavengers seldom seen during the day. Excellent sightings captured my Mike Myers
ARNOLD TSHIPA
http://www.wildernesstrust.com
H
yaena are
elusive scavengers seldom
seen during the
day, with most sightings being
reported in the evening. The
population trend from our
count figures shows a slight
increase in the hyaena population since 1996, with average
sightings in the last three
months being 35% of outings.
Most of these are seen in
Linkwasha area which we
suspect is because of higher
concentrations of lion there,
perhaps providing more kills
to scavenge.
A recent unique sighting
was reported of a spotted
hyaena being chased off by
a pack of eight wild dog.
They chased the hyaena and
nearly bit its rump, however
it managed to get away
unharmed.
Even though hyaena often
scavenge their meals, some
hunts have been seen in the
concession – and it seems
they have been punching way
above their weight. One hunt
seen was that of a hyaena
which was successful in taking
down an adult buffalo. Other
recent hunts by hyaena seen
by our guests include two
elephants (sub-adult and
juvenile) and another buffalo.
These hunts were at Scott’s
Pan and Back Pan.
These were examples of
successful hunts, but failures
are more common for hyaena.
One failure was that which
was seen recently at Madison
Pan in which five hyaena tried
to get a sable bull. Dramatically, three other sable bulls
chased them off in a battle
that lasted for an hour, eventually resulting in the hyaena
skulking into the water for
safety.
In another case a hyaena
tried to scavenge its meal from
a lioness at Scott’s Pan, but
was unlucky to have suffered
serious injuries which ended
up costing it its life.
[email protected]
www.imvelosafarilodges.com
+263 9 252 232
Imvelo offers 4 unique and exclusive lodges in magnificent locations in Hwange and Victoria Falls.
We’re not only about luxurious lodges & unforgettable safari experiences - we are also deeply
involved with our local communities & wildlife.
Come & enjoy a safari of a life time!
Gorges Lodge - Bomani Tented Lodge - Camelthorn Lodge - Zambezi Sands River Camp
What a Wonderful World
Only a 2 hour drive from Victora Falls, on the edge of Hwange National Park
Tel: +263 778 71 55 88 / +263 778 45 48 40
Email: [email protected] / Email: [email protected]
www.moivaro.com
Sable Sands
[email protected]
[email protected]
Sable Sands
18˚39’1.80’S 27˚1’18.55E
www.wilderness-safaris.com
18
ZIMBABWE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
BULAWAYO
On your way to the Zambezi
issue 12 for ipad app only
CONSERVATION
It’s all about the children
The occasion was colourful, with yellow banners and
T-shirts, and there was a
fascinating assortment of
people present. Gail Amyot,
longtime committed conservationist, and her committee
had organised the event and
due consideration was given
to the various stakeholders
in the future of our wildlife.
There were children of all
ages present, including a
special contingent of smartly
purple-blazered pupils from
nearby REPS School, while a
Sam Nkomo prior to embarking on his walk to Victoria Falls
HEATHER MACDONALD
[email protected]
[email protected]
S
am Nkomo’s walk to
save the rhino ended
at Victoria Falls in
October. When he
visited Main Camp, Hwange
during the game count he had
already spoken to over 4,500
children. This article is about
the exciting and memorable
start of his walk near Bulawayo.
small group of Boy Scouts was
inspected by their leaders to
check on their uniforms.
Members of the National
Parks and Wildlife Management Authority anti-poaching
patrol impressed onlookers with their immaculate
dress and drilling precision.
They left early to resume
their duties armed with
their weapons, with several
women rangers in the group.
We enjoyed some drama,
when fierce-looking poachers
attacked and killed a rhino,
but due justice was done, they
were swiftly apprehended, and
the rhino suitably mourned.
This performance was
supported by accomplished
and dramatic drumming.
Villagers from nearby ululated
and cheered enthusiastically
during the drama, especially
when the ‘poachers’ were
seized.
Speeches were delivered;
the grey-haired, diminutive
but authoritative local chief
spoke with great passion
about how he used to see
rhino in the wild when he
was growing up, and how it
was incumbent on all of us to
make sure future generations
experienced the same thrill he
had had on seeing these great
beasts roaming free.
The Mayor of Bulawayo
spoke, as did a representative of the Minister of the
Environment. All had the
same message – it is vital that
we take care of our environment, and that children need
to be educated to embrace this
concept since they hold the
key to the future. A group of
children, chosen at random,
each armed with a pair of scissors, helped the Mayor cut the
starter’s ribbon; it was time for
Sam to set off.
HISTORY
Photo: Heather Macdonald
One Saturday in September saw us at the car park
at Rhodes’s Grave in the
Matobo National Park. We
were to give support to a
professional guide, Sam
Nkomo, who was about to
embark on a walk to Victoria Falls. His objective was
to increase awareness of the
plight of the endangered
rhino; to raise money to
help with conservation; and,
most importantly, to speak to
schoolchildren along the way.
Bulawayo’s changing skyline
Part One Of A Five Part Series
ROB BURRETT, Associate
Researcher (Natural History
Museum) and Independent
Heritage Consultant
[email protected]
The Mayor and the children cutting the starter’s tape
Stray Dogs Furniture
Specialists in Custom Designed Furniture
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Cell: +263 (0)712 209217
e-mail: [email protected]
Factory Sales / Enquiries
Tel:+263 (0)9 880469 / 880436
e-mail:[email protected]
Email: [email protected]
S
ituated at the
southeast corner of
Main Street and 8th
Avenue, Bulawayo,
Scott’s Building was one of
several buildings constructed
in the early years of Bulawayo,
which were embellished with
imported, prefabricated multistorey cast-iron verandas.
These verandas were
The lodge to stay when
visiting Bulawayo and
Matopos en route to Hwange
and Victoria Falls
Giga’s men’s wear specialists
An extensive range of safari wear
(khaki shirts, trousers, shorts)
Official stockists of Courteney Boots Stockists
Courteney Boot Co Full range of safari footwear
Rogue Leather hats and travel bags. R. Giga and Sons P/L
93b Robert Mugabe Way, Bulawayo, Zimbabwe
Tel : +263 9 62631 / 79620 Cell : 0772516783
Email : [email protected]
Wifi • Dstv • Two restaurant options
Meeting rooms • Beautiful gardens
Telephone + 263 9 243176/7 Email address [email protected] www.banfflodgehotel.com
Scott’s Building
a characteristic feature of
late Victorian architecture
throughout the Empire - a
relatively cheap means of
making something dignified
from what were otherwise
plain brick buildings. Ordered
from Scotland and the
English Midlands, readymade kits were despatched as
ballast on outgoing ships.
Scott’s Building was built
in 1901 in the closing stages
of the Second Anglo-Boer
War. The conflict interrupted
rail traffic southward and
placed a major burden on
developers at the time. Most
inputs were imported and
the shortages escalated prices
significantly. Compounding
this, there was an acute shortage of skilled artisans as most
had enlisted to fight.
As was tradition at the
time, the simple iron roof
was hidden behind an ornate
SOURCE: ROB BURRETT
parapet. Like a lady’s ankles,
the roof was something not
shown in late Victorian
society! A notable feature
of Scott’s Building was the
crown-like embellishments
capping the parapet.
The building consisted
of small, dark premises used
initially as company offices, as
well as the Chambers of J E
Scott - Bulawayo’s first attorney. Later the building was
dominated by various public
offices, including the Departments of Public Works,
Lands, Mines, Customs, the
Prime Minister’s Office and
at one stage the Bulawayo &
District Publicity Office.
Scott’s Building was
demolished in 1963 to be
replaced by a more modern
structure better suited to the
needs of its banking tenants.
Grindlays Building now
houses Stanbic Bank.
ZAMBIA
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
19
LIVINGSTONE
Conservation – Community – Wildlife – World Heritage – History – Tourism
issue 11 for ipad app only
ART
New gallery unique in Zambia
[email protected]
http://livingstoneartgallery.weebly.com
A
rt lovers visiting
Livingstone will
be excited by the
new Livingstone
Art Gallery, the first government-built art gallery in the
country, which was opened to
the public by the Minister of
Tourism and Arts, the Hon
Jean Kapata, in October.
freedom
to experience
The gallery was launched
with a national exhibition to
celebrate Zambia’s Independence Golden Jubilee.
the Zambia National Dance
Troupe, who performed
dances from various parts of
Zambia.
The theme of the exhibition was ‘Fifty Years of Free
Expression’ and comprised a
wide range of art works of
various disciplines, including
painting, photography and
sculpture. Artists of different ages and experience from
various parts of the country,
among them Livingstone,
Kalomo, Choma, Lusaka
and the Copperbelt, were
represented.
The ceremony was
attended by a number of
well-known figures on the
Zambian art scene, notably
Vincent Maonde, Mwimanji
Chellah, Roy Kausa,
Patrick Mweemba,Chansa
Chishimba, Lawrence
PHOTO: CLARE MATEKE
CLARE MATEKE
‘Fifty years of free expression’ is the inspiration behind the art on display – a
highly recommended excursion if you are in Livingstone
Yombwe and Agnes Yombwe.
Also present were representatives from the National
Arts Council and local and
national Visual Arts Councils.
Guests were entertained by
The new gallery adds to
the list of existing private
galleries in Livingstone, such
as WayiWayi Art Gallery
and Studio, and roadside
open-air galleries such as
Mosi-oa-Tunya Art Centre
and Mtonga Art Centre. The
Livingstone Museum also
plays a major role in promoting art through hosting
exhibitions.
The new gallery offers
an immense and purposebuilt space for the display of
Zambian artwork, providing artists with a great new
opportunity to exhibit their
works. This building is only
the first phase of the project.
Further proposed expansion
of the gallery includes artists’
work space and educational
rooms, as well as storage and
more gallery space. It is also
hoped that this will lead to
the creation of a national
museum of contemporary
Zambian art.
The gallery is situated on
Sichango Road, on the way to
the Mosi-oa-Tunya National
Park, just before the Livingstone Showgrounds, and is
open every weekday from
09:00 to 18:00 hours and at
weekends from 10:00 to 17:00
hours.
Skukuza Airport Kruger National Park.
Airlink has extended its network to include Skukuza Airport in the Kruger National Park, one of the largest natural
wildlife reserves in the world. The direct flights from Johannesburg and Cape Town to Skukuza Airport will
provide guests with easy access to adjoining world renowned Private Game Lodges, the SANParks lodges and
camps within the Kruger National Park. A short air transfer from Skukuza Airport to Nelspruit KMIA will allow guests to
connect conveniently to Livingstone (Zambia) and to Vilanculos (Mozambique). For more information visit
www.flyairlink.com/skukuza/ or contact your booking agent.
Spread your wings, fly Airlink – Freedom of the African sky.
31338
Connecting
36 destinations in
9 African countries.
31338 Airlink_HPFC Skukuza_ZambeziTraveller.indd 1
2014/10/31 3:25 PM
20
LIVINGSTONE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
ART
Celebrating 50 years with art
exposed the viewer to
glimpses of what Zambia has
to offer. A unique feature of
the art on exhibition was that
the artwork was designed to
be ‘sold and rolled’, allowing
a prospective buyer to select
a work and immediately have
it packed and prepared for
transport.
SUE BRINK
T
Eleven artists and one
photographer exhibited
their work; vibrant colours
and eclectic subject matter
SOURCE: SUE BRINK
o mark Zambia’s
50th Independence Anniversary, an art
exhibition was held at the
Royal Livingstone Hotel to
showcase a selection of the
region’s leading visual artists.
The theme of the exhibition
was ‘Best of Zambia’, visions
to conjure up Africa, its spirit,
its wildlife, its people and its
magnificent wild places.
Beautiful Zambian wildlife photographs by renowned Zambian photographer Patrick Bentley were on display
New artwork was placed
on available easels once pieces
were sold, offering constantly
changing images to visitors.
Following the success of this
event, there will be monthly
art exhibitions at the Royal
Livingstone, which will run
for one week a month starting
in 2015. January’s theme is
‘Zambia’s green season’.
COMMUNITY
Ride for freedom
from violence
ZT CORRESPONDENT
www.facebook.com/gbvfreedomride
T
o raise awareness about
gender-based
violence, which
involves mostly women
and children, a group of
17 dedicated and amazing
individuals with huge hearts
and a wish to make a difference took to their bikes in
September on a ‘freedom
ride’. This was a cycle
ride covering 1,000km
across Zambia, from the
Congolese border town
Chililabombwe, to the southern border town and tourist
capital, Livingstone. The route
took them through thirteen of
Zambia’s busiest towns, Chililabombwe, Chingola, Kitwe,
Ndola, Kapiri, Kabwe, Lusaka,
Kafue, Mazabuka, Monze,
Pemba, Choma, Kalomo and
Livingstone.
The Ministry of Gender,
leading players in the
tourism industry, local
radio station Zambezi
FM, USAID and the Irish
and Swedish Embassies all
came together to help these
passionate cyclists succeed in
their awareness programme.
The cyclists outside the stadium in Ndola
PHOTO: CLARE POWELL
Be here.
Be romanced.
Tel: +260 213 324189 | Cell: +260 976 587 511
Email: [email protected]
Be inspired.
Be challenged.
Be romanced.
www.livingstonetourism.com
Gateway to Africa's Wonder
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
LIVINGSTONE
HYAENA
Seeking data for survival
Bordering eight countries,
having nearly 40% of its landmass managed for wildlife
and forming part of three
transfrontier conservation
areas, Zambia is important for
hyaena, yet very little is known
about their populations and
the threats facing them.
PHOTO: DR MATTHEW BECKER
www.zambiacarnivores.org
But hyaena are similarly
threatened by habitat loss,
prey depletion, poaching
and conflict with humans in
Zambia and are likely to be
declining across much of their
range, making scientific information critical to guide and
inform conservation efforts.
HYAENA
The last best place for hyaena
Exhibiting an aggressive ‘parallel walk’ behaviour, two hyaena approach a
rival clan’s wildebeest kill in Liuwa Plain, Zambia
The Zambian Carnivore
Programme (ZCP), in collaboration with the country’s
managing body, the Zambia
Wildlife Authority (ZAWA),
conducts conservation work
on hyaena in the three most
significant hyaena populations, namely the Luangwa
Valley, the Greater Kafue
Ecosystem and the Greater
Liuwa Ecosystem.
Using an array of methods
ranging from surveys to
long-term intensive studies
of radio-collared clans, ZCP
conducts research on a variety
of hyaena-related issues,
ranging from demography
and predator-prey dynamics
to carnivore guild relations
and disease. Collectively
these data identify key threats
and the conservation actions
needed.
Threats are then addressed
with conservation actions
ranging from de-snaring
efforts (hyaena are frequently
caught in snares set for other
target species); studies of
human encroachment and
poaching to determine trends,
rates and impacts; sciencebased land-use planning;
vaccination programmes to
protect both wild and domestic carnivores from disease
outbreaks; and protection of
large-scale habitat connectivity.
Perhaps most importantly ZCP helps ensure the
long-term viability of these
efforts by training, employing and educating Zambia’s
conservation leaders from the
secondary school level up to
international graduate degrees,
including the graduate work
Liuwa is truly the kingdom
of the hyaena and one of
Africa’s best places to view
these intriguing yet maligned
creatures. The vast seasonally
flooded plains are home to a
recovering wildebeest population and lost nearly all their
lion following years of conflict
and poaching in the area. In
the absence of competition
and with a wealth of wildebeest, the hyaena population
has thrived. In 2010 ZCP
initiated its Liuwa Project in
collaboration with the African
Parks Network and ZAWA.
The unique ecological
situation in Liuwa provides
the opportunity to evaluate
the impact of lion on hyaena
and their competitors, and
over 260 animals in six clans
are intensively studied along
with lion, cheetah and wild
dog populations. In addition
hyaena predation of wildebeest can have strong impact
and thus the project intensively studies wildebeest and
hyaena predator-prey dynamics. In concert hopefully
these efforts can bring more
guidance and information to
conserve one of Africa’s great
carnivores.
PHOTO: DR MATTHEW BECKER
[email protected]
L
21
of Jassiel M’soka, who initiated ZCP’s Liuwa Project and
whose Masters focuses in part
on hyaena.
DR MATTHEW BECKER,
CEO/Programme Manager,
Zambian Carnivore
Programme
ong reviled and
persecuted, the
spotted hyaena
is actually one
of the most successful and
fascinating members of the
large carnivore community in
Africa. As carnivore population declines continue across
the continent, hyaena have
received comparatively little
attention relative to their
more glamorous cat and dog
counterparts.
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Jassiel M’soka takes measurements from an immobilised hyaena as
part of his research on large carnivore dynamics in a lion-depleted
system where hyaena have thrived
DR MATTHEW BECKER,
CEO/Programme Manager,
Zambian Carnivore
Programme
[email protected]
www.zambiacarnivores.org
Few people have heard of
Liuwa Plain, and even fewer
have visited, but it is undoubtedly one of the best places
in Africa to see spotted hyaena in the wild. Recovering
from decades of poaching,
Liuwa has been managed by
African Parks Zambia since
2003, during which period the
wildlife has begun dramatic
recoveries.
With a current lion population
of five animals, hyaena dominate the ecosystem, preying
on the abundant wildebeest
population and easily observed resting at the many
pans and clan dens scattered
throughout the plains. Liuwa
is best accessed from May to
November.
With lion functionally absent
in Liuwa, Jassiel M’soka initiated the Zambian Carnivore
Programme’s Liuwa Project in
2010, aimed at obtaining more
information on the recovering
ecosystem’s carnivore populations and the effect of lion
depletion (and recovery) on
their dynamics.
M’soka was seconded to ZCP
from the Zambia Wildlife Authority and is currently finishing his graduate degree at
Montana State University. As
Zambia’s first large carnivore
biologist, M’soka laid the
groundwork for the project
that has now expanded into
a long-term, large-scale ecological study helping to guide
and inform Liuwa’s restoration
efforts.
22
LIVINGSTONE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
COMMUNITY
by African Impact, each of
the students plans to use their
certification in different ways.
MARGARET DERBY
Project Coordinator, African
Impact - Livingstone
Chisenga was quick to
point out the endless need
for adult education in her
community. “From the time I
started teaching these classes,
I’ve discovered that even very
young women and men are
attending. You can find they
don’t know anything – they
don’t know how to read, they
don’t know how to write –
even to write their names.”
[email protected]
www.africanimpact.com
I
t’s a hot Thursday
afternoon and sitting in
the bright sun at Linda
Farm surrounded by
five women is Doephister
Chisenga. Chisenga lives
at Linda Farm, and every
Tuesday and Thursday she
volunteers her time to teach
adult literacy courses facilitated by African Impact.
“If you don’t know how
to communicate with your
students, really you cannot
do anything. As a tutor, you
PHOTO: MARGARETY DERBY
Doephister Chisenga teaching some of her students at Linda Farm
ANNIVERSARY
Golden Jubilee for Zambia
Zambia attained independence from British colonial rule on 24 October 1964
PHOTO: KINGSLEY CHOONGO
the skies, amid excitement
and ululations from the
people who attended the
event.
ZT CORRESPONDENT
L
ivingstone City,
the tourist
capital of
Zambia, joined
the rest of the country in
celebrating Zambia’s 50th
Independence Anniversary
with a colourful ceremony
this October.
Golden Jubilee march past in Livingstone
The events started on
the evening of 23 October
with the ceremonial hoisting
of the Zambian flag at the
Livingstone City Council
grounds at midnight. This
commemorative event, which
is traditionally held every year,
was coupled with energetic
entertainment from various
cultural groups. To crown it
all, glamorous fireworks filled
The following morning
people from all walks of life,
clad in the colours of the
Zambian flag, participated
in the Independence march
past, led by a brass band
from Mukuni Park to the
Villa Grounds. There was a
lot of excitement and jubilation as residents and tourists from different countries
took a moment from their
schedules to witness the
procession. At the Villa
Grounds various groups
performed songs, poetry
and dance, much to amuse
the people in attendance.
have to make sure that you
communicate to your students
very well,” she says of teaching
the class. Chisenga learned
the importance of communication earlier this year. The
Ministry of Education and
the District Education Board
(DEB) Secretary of Livingstone put together a class to
train facilitators on the core
principles of adult education.
The course was sponsored by The Happy Africa
Foundation. Billy Milimo
from the DEB’s Livingstone
office headed up the course
and taught on twelve different
subjects such as the characteristics of adult learning,
communication, teaching
methods and techniques in
adult education, and recruitment of adult learners.
The course trained and
certified nine community
members to launch, manage
and facilitate adult education
courses. While Chisenga uses
hers to teach the classes run
In Zambia, 40% of citizens
over the age of 15 cannot
read or write, and with the
average age that children
stop attending school at 14,
most learning ends early.
Nelson Mandela’s famous
quote:“Education is the most
powerful weapon which
you can use to change the
world”, has been proven time
and again. Education can
empower people, decrease
unemployment, break the
cycle of poverty, decrease
gender gaps and uplift future
generations.
The Ministry of Education
and DEBs’ initiative was a
milestone, and the facilitators are seeing success in their
own classes. “We started with
Book 1, and now we are doing
Book 4. They are improving,”
Chisenga says. The improvement might mean that soon
the students will no longer
need Doephister’s help, but
that won’t stop her.
“Even if these ladies go,
I would like to have another
class.” With dedicated
community members like
Chisenga and programmes
such as this in Livingstone,
Zambia’s literacy rate will be
on the upswing.
LIVINGSTONE
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
23
Plant Encounters
[email protected]
C
ounting stamens
has never been
one of my favourite botanical
activities. I’m more inclined to
tumble into flowers to inhale
the heady fragrance or sip on
sweet nectar. Floral architecture, however, is fascinating,
so let’s peek into the private
parts of five star-like flowers
whom you might meet around
Livingstone.
In sheltered waters along
the banks of the Zambezi,
‘water-snowflake’ (Nymphoides indica) produces stellate
flowers, each of which lasts
only one day. The petals
unite in a tube at the yellow
centre, but eagerly thrust out
five fringed arms in a white
star-burst. When the flowers
are dunked by waves, or by
large insects landing on them,
they bob up quickly and
emerge completely dry. It also
seems that star-shaped and
frilly silhouettes attract bees
more effectively than smooth
ones, increasing the likelihood
of pollination.
The five-armed arrangement is popular among
flowering plants, but not
so in the mineral kingdom,
where pentagonal symmetry
is rare. Our little Nymphoides shouldn’t really be
nick-named ‘snowflake’, for
example, because the icy
version (not well-known in
Zambia) has six arms.
In some species, the starry
shape is created by structures
other than petals: in Grewia
schinzii, for example, five
sepals fold outwards and
flatten to reveal their smooth
inner yellowness.
Grewia schinzii
Orthanthera jasminiflora
Stapelia gigantea
Adenium multiflorum
Orthanthera is not a
jasmine, Stapelia isn’t really
made of carrion, and Adenium
doesn’t belong with the lilies!
Along with silly English
names, they also share a
family relationship, being
members of the Apocynaceae,
or dogbane family. In the old
days (pre-molecular analysis), floral architecture and
symmetry formed the basis of
taxonomy, and it was crucial
for any half-decent botanist
to recognise patterns within
plant families.
PHOTO: EVELYN ROE
EVELYN ROE
Botanist With North-West
Naturalists’ Society Of Zambia
PHOTO: EVELYN ROE
Five-star
flowers
Nymphoides indica
The flowers of Orthanthera jasminiflora are not only
star-shaped, but also release
a strong, sweet fragrance to
attract insect pollinators.
Interestingly, this species can
be found growing on the
northern side of the Livingstone sewage ponds.
There are stinky stars,
too, such as Stapelia gigantea,
one of the ‘carrion flowers’.
Stapelia mimics the smell,
colouration and texture of
rotting meat to attract flies
for pollination. Lovely in the
herbaceous border!
During winter, the impala
lily (Adenium multiflorum)
decorates its bare, succulent
branches with exquisite,
crinkly, five-petalled flowers.
This shrub is native to Zambia
and much of southern Africa,
but is on the IUCN Red Data
Lists for Zambia, Zimbabwe
and Swaziland, partly due to
over-collection by horticulturalists.
I know the Apocynaceae, for
example, as having opposite
leaves, milky latex sap, fruits
made of paired follicles, and
flowers which have five united
petals and five sepals, and...oh,
yes...five stamens!
Copyright: Permission to use photographs of Orthanthera and Stapelia
from Helen Pickering; Photograph of
Adenium multiflorum via Wikimedia
Commons © Hans Hillewaert
Exquisite river views
www.siankaba.net
Generous Hospitality. Culture. Tranquility
Contact your Local Travel Agent or
[email protected] Tel: 260 977 720530 /213 327490
24
LIVINGSTONE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
ANNIVERSARY
Happy
Birthday
Zambia
I
n October this year
Zambian citizens
celebrated their Golden
Jubilee. Fifty years of
independence. Happy birthday Zambia from Zambezi
Jewels. A wonderful souvenir
for this auspicious year would
be a beautiful Zambian tourmaline set in gold. Excellent
quality tourmalines are mined
Chanters Lodge: Stay at Chanters
Lodge in Livingstone, great food,
wonderful garden with pool, comfortable
reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu
Crescent, off Obote Avenue.
Phone: + 260 213 323412
Email : [email protected]
http://www.chanters-livingstone.com
twitter/@livilodge
events
Gemstones mined in Zambia
Livingstone
Find your birth stone in Zambia
AMETHYST
AQUAMARINE
EMERALD
December
TOURMALINE
GARNET
21 December
Annual Carols By Candlelight &
Christmas Market
FEBRUARY
MARCH
in Zambia and the Tourmaline is the birth stone for the
month of October.
The following gemstones
CLASSIFIEDS
ACCOMMODATION
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
ACCOMMODATION
Zigzag Bed & Breakfast: Clean,
comfortable, affordable accommodation
in Livingstone town, only 7km from the
Victoria Falls. All rooms have en-suite
facilities, air-conditioning, secure parking,
beautiful gardens, swimming pool,
children’s play area, DSTV, free WiFi for
guests, delicious food served all day,
licensed bar. Phone: + 260 213 322814
Mobile: + 260 (0) 977681741
E-mail: [email protected]
www.zigzagzambia.com
MAY
OCTOBER
are mined in Zambia and
stunning pieces of jewellery can be found in the
Zambezi Jewels outlets at the
JANUARY
airport and in their shop in
Livingstone town. A special
memory that will last a life
time.
livingstone
ACCOMMODATION
Chinese chopsticks Hotel Livingstone:
New modern en-suite , air-conditioned
rooms with TV, Wifi. Singles K600,
doubles K680 per room per night,
inclusive of full breakfast. V.I.P suite
K800 per night. Conference facilities/
small functions/meetings for 30 – 50
people. CHINESE RESTAURANT:
With superb Sichuan cuisine and
take-aways. Open to the public 10.00
– 21.00hrs. “ NOW OPEN “ John Hunt
Way Phone + 260 (0) 96593466 E-mail :
[email protected]
Zambia’s biggest Book
& Stationery store
14.00h to 21.00h, Serenity Farm. For
more information or to register stall
holder interest, please contact Sam
Aldridge Ph: +260 213324072, Email:
livingstone@happyafricafoundation.
org Serenity Rachael - African Impact
0975568359
Every Day
National Art & Sculpture Exhibition
10.00 - 17.00hrs Livingstone Art Gallery
Mr Chansa Chishimba + 260 (0) 977 364
419
Fridays
Art & crafts
For children using recycled materials
WayiWayi Art Studio
Phone Agnes Cell + 260 (0) 095 555 9101
Rotary Club of L/Stone meet
13.00hrs - 14.00hrs, Limbo Lodge
Phone Sue + 260 (0) 965888810
Cake Sale Acacia School
11.00hrs - 13.00hrs, Acacia School
Cell + 260 (0) 977126526
Sat & Sun
Traditional Zambian dancing
15.00 - 17.00hrs Maramba Cultural
Village, Mr Zimba + 260 (0) 977 364 419
Festive Season
Festive Meals
Waterfront & Safari Lodge Sharmaine +
260 213 320 606
Advertise in Livingstone Classifieds
[email protected] +263 (0) 712 208 370
ART STUDIO
& GALLERY
ACCOMMODATION
Ngolide Lodge: Newly refurbished
rooms, well equipped with en-suite
bathrooms, air-conditioned, DSTV, room
safes, fridges, safe parking.
Our GOLDEN LEAF RESTAURANT
serves Indian/Continental/Zambian
cuisine. Located Mosi-oa-Tunya Road
Restaurant : + 260 213 321266
Lodge : 260 213 321091/2
Mobile : + 260 (0)974 321 266
E- mail : [email protected]
Or info @[email protected]
www.ngolidelodge.com
INTERNET CAFE
EEZEE CAFE: Internet access,
photocopying, printing, scanning,binding,
laminating, typing. P.C. repairs and virus
removal. We design logos, letterheads,
gift vouchers and websites. Phone +
260 213 321702. Falls Park Mall
GIFT SHOP
Reflections Gigis: Good selection of
Christmas cards and gifts. Camping
equipment. Find us at Falls Park Mall
Phone : + 260 (0) 977788575
Activities
Wayiwayi Art Studio & Gallery:
Contemporary Zambian art & crafts.
Traditional marriage emblems (IMBUSA).
Tuition in arts & crafts for grades 9 & 12
Workshop for all ages. Children’s art &
craft classes on Fridays .
Open: 09.00 – 16.30 hrs. Plot number
2613/392 Kalukuluka Street off Airport
Road. Phone Agnes Buya Yombe + 260
(0) 965 559 101/ + 260 (0) 977 325 799
Email :[email protected] or
[email protected]
FUEL STATION
Engen Falls Park towards Victoria Falls.
24hour fuel, convenience store and clean
rest rooms.Phone: + 260 213 322584
E-mail : [email protected]
WALK WITH THE RHINO on a 3 hour
‘walking safari’ in the Mosi-oa-Tunya
National Park. Inclusive pick-up and
drop-off, park fees, professional guide,
game scout, light breakfast, halfway
snacks, cold water/soft drinks.
‘ TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE ‘
LIVINGSTONE SAFARIS Tel : + 260 213
322267 Cell : + 260 (0) 977450716 E-mail
:[email protected]
PICTURE FRAMING
Frame it Perfect
Contact us on 230606 or Email [email protected]
Picture framing,
canvas stretching,
shadow boxes,
re-glazing
Commercial & Residential Properties for Sale & Rent
Tourism, Leisure & Agriculture Investments Available
Phone : + 260 (0)969 251 825
Email : [email protected]
RESTAURANT
[email protected]
+260 (0)211 250290, 257930, 257943
www.homenetzambia.com
Lusaka, (0211) 288010/1 • Kitwe, (0212) 221747/67
Ndola, (0212) 610936/7 • Livingstone, (0213) 320002/234
www.dayliff.com
NOW OPEN! Feeling Livingstone Lounge
: A quiet corner in the heart of Livingstone
with a Mediterranean personal touch in
a cosy and relaxing atmosphere. 1364
Kabompo Road
Phone : +260 213 321596 Email:
[email protected]
ZAMBIA
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
LUANGWA
On your way to the Zambezi
25
issue 11 for ipad app only
ON SAFARI IN ZAMBIA
Hercules shows the world
ON SAFARI IN ZAMBIA
MINDY ROBERTS
Zambia’s best kept secret
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.chongwe.com
www.normancarrsafaris.com
the ebony groves and glide
up the river channels.
O
SOURCE: NORMAN CARR SAFARIS
ne of the
greatest things
about a safari is
never knowing
what’s around the corner. Will
there be a leopard snoozing
in a tree? A giraffe munching
on acacia leaves? A dazzle
of zebra drinking from a
waterhole?
Earlier this month, guests
departed from Chinzombo in
the South Luangwa National
Park, on a normal afternoon
drive and witnessed something beyond all expectations,
the sighting of the year: 14
lion hunting a young lone bull
elephant.
Float through the ebony groves and glide up the river channels out of
Chinzombo Camp in South Luangwa
VICKY AUSTIN
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.chongwe.com
www.normancarrsafaris.com
Witnessing a pride of 14
active lion is quite spectacular
in itself, given that they spend
around 20 hours asleep each
day. This pride (all female) was
on the hunt – our guests were
witnessing a real, raw and
unedited wildlife documentary!
“In the many years I have
been a safari guide in Zambia
at the South Luangwa, never
have I seen anything like this,”
said Innocent Tembo, who
PHOTOS: STEVE BAKER
It seemed like the
young elephant was going
to succumb; he kicked, he
stomped, he charged, he
trumpeted and flapped –
the guests nicknamed him
Hercules. Realising that the
lion didn’t fancy getting their
feet wet, Hercules waded into
the Luangwa River whilst
carrying three of them on his
back. After finally ridding
himself of his passengers he
made another charge back on
to dry land to show the pride
he wasn’t cowed.
S
This series of photographs illustrates the herculean survival effort required of
a young bull elephant
was guiding the drive and is
one of the top safari guides
working with Norman Carr
Safaris. “We thought the
elephant would be killed right
before us. What a fighter! It
was incredible.”
All this happened during
Norman Carr Safaris’ ‘Secret
Season’; driving around the
national park, you feel as
though you are the last person
in the world. You have these
wonderful sightings and so
few people to share them
with. Except now that the
video has gone viral – and it’s
no wonder really. With over
22 million views online, the
world is watching Zambia
and the South Luangwa!
we take you places we know and trust
+260 977 618 194 [email protected]
www.zamagsafaris.com
hhhh….. the
Secret Season
is upon us. A
magical time of
year in the South Luangwa
and Lower Zambezi
National Parks which few
people know about. Imagine
a park packed full of zebra,
lion, wild dog, buffalo and
elephant. Imagine herbivores tending their young
and migrant and resident
birds in full breeding
plumage and in full song.
And imagine the feeling of
having this all to yourself.
Contrary to popular belief,
the wildlife doesn’t vanish…
just the Homo sapiens. With
only a handful of camps
open, guests are few and far
between, so you can relax
while a leopard lazes in a tree,
the lion meander along the
river bank, the wild dog chase
impala in the green grass and
the baby elephant play-fight
in the rivers.
Walking safaris and game
drives take place as normal
and guests are in for a special
treat at this time of year in
the South Luangwa. The
Luangwa River becomes a
central feature; boating safaris
are able to take you into the
heart of the park. You explore
new and untouched territories
inaccessible by vehicles and
walking safaris, float through
Nothing beats watching
animals at eye-level as they
congregate along the banks
of the river, except maybe
the sundowner as you drift
along past one of the biggest
yellow-billed stork colonies,
with the sounds of the
hippo laughing and frogs
chiming.
So where is the catch?
That’s the magic; there isn’t
one. Yes, there is some rain,
and thunderstorms, but this
is a photographer’s dream:
sensational lighting and
dramatic scenery. As quickly
as the impressive cloud
formations appear, the blue
skies take over – leaving
the air clear and the bush at
its most lush and verdant.
Game viewing activities
may occasionally be delayed
or interrupted (what better
excuse for another G&T)
but they are rarely cancelled.
Norman Carr Safaris
operates three camps during
this time – Chinzombo,
Kakuli Bush Camp and
Kapani, and Chongwe
Safaris operates Kasaka
River Lodge. And the best
part of it all? It’s the best
value time of year to be
venturing on safari.
26
BOTSWANA
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
OKAVANGO
On your way to the Zambezi
issue 12 for ipad app only
HYAENA
Tracking Snaggle’s surprise itinerary
EDUCATION
JESSICA VITALE, Botswana
Predator Conservation Trust
Passion meets purpose for guides
[email protected]
www.bpctrust.org/
www.grantatkinson.com
The behaviour of a recently
radio-collared hyaena has
provided insight into the
complexity of clan coexistence
and territorial overlap in this
ecosystem. One day, a member
of our research team came
across a very well-habituated
“Spotted hyaena regularly walk several kilometres every day, this adult was
passing by when it grew curious, and proceeded to approach warily to investigate my photographic activity.” The photographer is 15 years old and was on
safari with Grant Atkinson
hyaena resting within two
kilometres of our field camp.
This individual had
recently been seen feeding on
an elephant carcass alongside, though submissive to,
known (lone) members of
the local hyaena clan. We
deployed a high-resolution
GPS collar developed by the
Royal Veterinary College
(University of London) on
this individual, who, due to
a prominent lower canine, I
named ‘Snaggle’.
About one week later, I
tracked Snaggle and found
him in the southern section of
our study area, which I found
to be unusual for the local
clan. In subsequent weeks,
I failed to find a predictable
pattern of Snaggle’s movements, and struggled to relocate him on a regular basis.
Finally, aerial support from
Dr.Tico McNutt located
Snaggle 32km from where he
was last seen, far northwest
in Moremi Game Reserve
where the local clan does not
normally travel.
Continued to page 39
Courses are conducted in true big game wilderness areas
including the Kruger Park and Mashatu, Botswana
Field Guide Training for Career
Professional Field Guide - One Year
Field Guide Level 1 - 55 days
Trails Guide - 28 days
Courses for interest and passion
Safari Guide - 28 days
Animal Tracks and Tracking
EcoQuest ~ Ecology
Birding in the Bush
Wilderness Trails Skills
Contact us for the me of your life!
+27 13 752 2532
[email protected]
www.ecotraining.co.za
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.ecotraining.co.za
E
ight passionate
people were
recently selected
from lodges and
villages around Botswana
to attend a fully sponsored
nature guide training
programme by the Amarula
Conservation Trust.
The delegates enrolled
on their course in August
for self study and research
and then 33 days of full
time field training at
EcoTraining’s camp in the
Mashatu Game Reserve
of Botswana. This was
followed by 30 days of
attachment as learner
guides in the workplace.
Hardie Basson, marketing manager of Amarula
for Botswana, revealed
the rationale behind this
sponsorship. “The initiative is aimed at developing
Botswana tourism. Amarula
is working with Botswana
authorities in developing sustainable upliftment programmes in the
tourism sector. Programmes
supporting various research
projects are in progress and
will be rolled out over the
next few years.”
SOURCE: ECO TRAINING
In the Okavango Delta, we
are investigating the regional
specificities of spotted
hyaena behaviour within the
context of our long-term
predator research programme.
Although highly nocturnal
and secretive in this study
area, a combination of direct
observation and remote monitoring has begun to shed light
on this unique species.
PHOTO: Chloe Destremau
S
potted hyaena exhibit
extensive behavioural
variation across
ecosystems. Aspects
of their behaviour, such as
clan size, foraging pattern
and intra-predator interaction, vary depending on the
population.
KATH GREATHEAD
Passionate wildlife enthusiasts learn to guide in Botswana
Okwa Sarefo, the Nature
Safari Guide instructor
wrote: “The passion of these
learners for wildlife and their
commitment to the course
was amazing to witness. They
would stay up talking about
what they had learned late
into the night. They enjoyed
learning about the ecological
functioning of nature and how
each organism contributes to
the ecosystem. They were one
of the best groups of students
we have ever had.”
The EcoTraining Nature
Guide Level 2 course
included lessons on botany,
ecology, geology, climate,
astronomy, mammals, birds,
guiding principles, 4x4
vehicles, game driving, laws
and regulations of Botswana
pertaining to parks and
reserves as well as tracking,
conservation and habitat
management.
The course is intended to
advance eco-sustainability
and provide critical employment skills. It is aligned to
the new National Guide
Qualifications of Botswana
and is accredited under the
Botswana Qualifications
Authority.
“The criteria for the
delegates were simple they needed to be linked
to potential employment,
demonstrate a passion for
wildlife, a willingness to
improve their own education and an ability to give
back to their communities,”
said Clinton Phillips of Eco
Training.
“Knowledgeable, skilled,
competent and ethical
guides play an important
role in the foreign tourist
experience - we simply wish
to up-skill, give back and
create excellent memorable
experiences,” Basson said.
Water Renaissance
For a brief moment in
time, the Okavango Delta
is flowing into the Kalahari
Desert causing an explosion of new life. Witness
this historic period from
our luxury safari camp on
the Boteti River. Only a 90
minute drive from Maun
Airport. Find out more at
www.menoakwena.com
and Facebook.
T (+267) 686 0981
C (+267) 7132 6085
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
BOTSWANA
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
CHOBE
27
Download all issues to your
tablet or computer from
www.zambezitraveller.com
Conservation – Community – Wildlife – World Heritage – History – Tourism
ECOTOURISM
First for Botswana and Africa
www.chobegamelodge.com
T
he Botswana
Tourism Organisation and
Chobe Game
Lodge co-hosted the launch
of the first electric game drive
vehicle and safari boat in
Chobe in November.
The launch, on the banks
of the Chobe River at Chobe
Game Lodge, marked
the dawn of a new era for
ecotourism in Botswana
and Africa. Over 150 people
gathered to witness the occasion as the first electric game
drive vehicle and electric safari
boat moved silently toward
the crowd, driven by guides
Connie Yazema Mbaeva and
Lebo Kgoleng – members
of the 14 strong all-female
guiding team.
District Commissioner,
Dr Temba Mmusi officiated
at the initiation of Chobe
Game Lodge’s eco-friendly
safaris with a carbon dioxide
emission free electric game
viewing fleet consisting of a
4x4 game drive vehicle and
safari boat – believed to be the
first in Africa.
Eight years ago the
management team at Chobe
Game Lodge embarked
on a journey to be the first
lodge in Africa to operate
The electricity that
charges the long-life lithium
ECOTOURISM
In pursuit of
Best Practice
TEDDY BRIGHTMAN
www.botswanatourism.co.bw
Botswana has some of the most
beautiful, prolific and diverse
wildlife areas in Africa and a
vibrant tourism industry. To
preserve these areas and to
ensure that host communities
benefit meaningfully from the
industry, the Botswana Tourism Organisation has worked
closely with government bodies, communities and tourist
establishments to produce the
Botswana Ecotourism Best
Practice Manual for sustainable
tourism.
The manual aims to assist all
services related to the tourism
industry to operate within ecotourism guidelines.
Sustainable tourism is achieved
with a balance of:
Sound social development;
Economic growth;
Environmental protection.
BTO’s manual provides an
Ecotourism Business Plan to
ensure the successful set-up
of an ecotourism business and
includes:
Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following;
» Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available
» Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available
» Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips
Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia
We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat
cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your
safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at
what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana.
Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross
Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent.
Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297
Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918
E mail: [email protected] / [email protected] / [email protected]
batteries to power the fleet
comes from the hydroelectric
scheme at Victoria Falls and
is thus fully renewable energy.
Not only are they carbon
dioxide emission free but the
experience of a silent safari
on Freedom3 and Freedom4
is superior to that using a
conventional engine. The
wildlife was more confiding
Physical design and operation
of the business
Implementing an environmental
impact assessment
Architecture that is efficient,
comfortable, attractive and in
keeping with the environment
Acquisition of all building
materials in keeping with
sustainable practices
Facilities designed for water
use and water wastage set out
for minimal environmental
impact and systems used for
this purpose well monitored
Practices affecting air quality
well thought through to
minimise emissions – vehicles
and boats to minimise
emissions; buildings to use
natural ventilation techniques
and non-ozone depleting
products
Construction and operations to
consider limiting noise
emissions at all times
Disposal of solid waste and
hazardous materials systems
to be set up and usage of
energy minimised.
The manual details the involvement of local stakeholders and
emphasises benefits to them
which are vital in the process of
sustainable tourism, ensuring the
preservation of Botswana’s rich
culture and heritage.
Recent European travel consumer
without the rumbling diesel
motor and guests were
astounded by hearing only a
gentle breeze and the sound
of the African bush while
moving through Chobe
National Park.
Seroke T Seleke, Kasane’s
Principal Airport Operations
Officer, was presented with
the sign for what will be the
PHOTO: Lynette Francey
[email protected]
[email protected]
an entirely electric safari
fleet. Freedom Won SA
were approached and soon
work began on Freedom3 (a
converted Land Rover and
the first silent electric game
drive vehicle in Botswana)
and Freedom4 (a new electric
safari skimmer boat).
Left to right: Jonathan Gibson-Managing Director Chobe Holdings Limited,
Keitumetse Setlang – PR Manager Botswana Tourism Organisation, Johan
Bruwer – General Manager Chobe Game Lodge
PHOTO: TEDDY BRIGHTMAN
JAMES WILSON
The landrover being ‘fueled up’ with
electricity
research shows that more than
half of the travellers made their
travel decisions in favour of
establishments which were
actively environmentally responsible in their practices.
Botswana Tourism Organisation’s dedication to the
implementation and success of
ecotourism was demonstrated
when it co-hosted the launch
of Chobe Game Lodge’s new
electric fleet. Thilo Naicker,
a member of the BTO Board,
said in her speech at the
launch: “Botswana’s resources,
the steady increase of the
number of holiday arrivals and
the revenue generated in the
process ensure that, if managed on a sustainable basis,
the tourism industry is definitely
an important engine of growth.”
first ‘Electric Vehicle Only’
parking bay in Africa.
CEO of Chobe Holdings, Jonathan Gibson called
on the industry to consider
converting to electric power.
The long-term vision is that
not only more electric vehicles
will be used by other safari
operators in Botswana, but
that it will become the only
allowable form of propulsion
on the Chobe River.
Speaking at the event,
Botswana Tourism
Organisation board member,
Thilo Naicker discussed
the internationally certified
Ecotourism Accreditation
Scheme which evaluates and
awards the sustainable and
responsible initiatives taking
place within the industry.
Chobe Game Lodge was
one of the first properties in
the country to receive full
BTO ecotourism certification. BTO pledged its support
to the industry to establish
Botswana as a world leader in
ecotourism.
28
CHOBE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
COMMUNITY
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
TOURISM
This one’s for the men
Chobe Marina poised for 2015
ZT CORRESPONDENT
www.movemberbotswana.com
M
ovember
Maun Trust,
also known
as Movember Botswana, is a registered
trust which holds annual
awareness and fundraising
campaigns in aid of men’s
health, specifically prostate
cancer, testicular cancer and
depression.
This year Movember
Botswana and the Cancer
Association of Botswana
benefited when three friends,
Daryl Dandridge, Josh
Iremonger and Lawrence
Drotsky, embarked on a
370km (230 miles) walk
through northern Botswana
and its Kalahari sands.
The walk has been named
Daryl’s Walk - Daryl is 72
with decades of bush experience. The group started on
3 November 2014 by the
Zambezi River at Kazungula
Ferry border post and finished
on 23 November 2014 at
Okavango River Lodge on
the banks of the Thamalakane
River in Maun.
The walkers set off on
their trek in the scorching
heat but with plenty of cloud
build-up, heading towards the
northern boundary of Chobe
PHOTO: REX KELLY
https://www.facebook.com/#!/
darylswalk
Standing from left to right: Lawrence Drotsky, Daryl Dandridge and Josh
Iremonger
National Park. Over the next
few days, despite massive
thunderstorms and unforgiving terrain, the group covered
good mileage, averaging about
23km a day, encountering a
herd of 60 gemsbok and 20
tsessebe along the way.
The rain eased up for a
while on day seven but the
bush became thicker with the
grass being taller than the
walkers. Bumping into breeding herds of elephant, sound
asleep in the deep shade, some
of them lying on their sides,
caused the adrenaline to run
high.
The following couple of
days proved to be the toughest, with searing heat, tonnes
of mopane bees finding their
way into noses, eyes and ears,
and the walkers having to
carry two days’ water, food and
camping equipment. Water
was running short which
added extra pressure. A much
needed re-supply arrived on
about day nine and the group
continued into Ngamiland,
northern Botswana. Rain
made walking difficult and
slow – the walkers had to
push hard over the next few
days to make up the mileage
lost.
The last few days through
Ngamiland were rewarded
with great game sightings,
including an impressive herd
of eland, a large, stubborn
Egyptian cobra in the middle
of the path they were following, with plenty of hyaena and
lion activity at night around
camp. The last camp was at
Old Matlapaneng Bridge,
the sound of traffic seeming
foreign after days in the bush,
miles from civilisation. The
group arrived in Maun, tired
and full of blisters, but happy,
to a great welcome ceremony.
Chobe Marina’s spectacular river frontage can be enjoyed in comfort
ZT CORRESPONDENT
[email protected]
www.chobemarinalodge.com
[email protected]
T
he second
phase of the
extensive
refurbishment
of Chobe Marina Lodge,
under the supervision of
general manager, Bernard
Magano has been successfully completed.
As well as new furniture and fittings added
throughout, the lodge has
added six new rooms to the
existing 60. Bathrooms have
been modernised to provide
guests with a spacious shower
and bath.
Outside decks have been
revitalised so that Chobe
Marina’s spectacular river
frontage can be enjoyed in
comfort, while new pathways with lighting have been
developed around the property. Occupancy has taken
an upturn and the new look
of the lodge has been well
received by guests.
New appointments have
been made to complement the
SOURCE: CHOBE MARINA LODGE
lodge’s upgrade. A new chef
has been appointed who is
creating a menu designed to
whet all appetites. Malcolm
Robinson has been
appointed chief operating
officer – he was formerly
general manager of a
company with three lodges
under his supervision.
Chobe Marina Lodge is
actively involved in Kasane
community and in conservation efforts. It supports
the Kalahari Conservation
Society, donating prizes for
functions and this year has
been no exception with golf
days and charity events.
Make this festive a season to remember!
Pay for 2 nights and get a complimentary accommodation
for the 3rd night inclusive of breakfast only at Chobe Marina Lodge
available
for Groups
and conferencing
Pay forP2190.00
2 nights and getInclusive
a complimentary
accommodation
thenot
3rd
night
inclusive
of
of Breakfast,
Dinner forRates
Double
Tel: +267 625 2220/1
breakfast
only
at
Chobe
Marina
Lodge
Email: [email protected]
and
1
Activity
per
day
per
person
Single P1557.00
Web: www.chobemarinalodge.com
Terms and Conditions
Rates are valid from the 10 December 2014 until 28 February 2015
Children under the age of 12 sharing with parents in the same room pay 50% of meals and activites
Rates valid to Botswana citizens, Residents and SADC countries
Rates are per night DBB and 1 activity either a BOAT Cruise or a GAME DRIVE along the Chobe River for 2 adults sharing unless otherwise indicated
This special requires 50% deposit in order to confirm the reservation, please contact the lodge regarding payment policy
The credit card used to confirm the booking has to be presented on check-in
Reservations need to be cancelled 48 hours prior to arrival to avoid a non refundable cancellation fee of 100%
Rates are quoted in BWP
.
P
CHOBE
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
29
NEW PRODUCT
Dine on the river on ‘The Raft’
TOURISM
Elephants swimming in the Chobe River in front of ‘The Raft’
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.flameofafrica.com
F
or people on holiday
anywhere in the
world, enjoying a
meal is part of the
experience. The Chobe River
now has a special dining
experience to offer visitors – a
new floating restaurant called
‘The Raft’.
To have as little negative
impact on the environment
as possible, all items used in
the restaurant are unbreakable – no broken glass or
crockery can cause harm to
the environment. Every scrap
of refuse is bagged and taken
off The Raft.
For washing hands, a
container with a tap provides
water – the waste water goes
Zambezi Traveller reported
in March 2014 that Brett
McDonald had designs for a
floating restaurant which he
was planning to build during
the course of the year. The
Raft is now fully functional
and open for business.
Getting to the restaurant is
an event itself as the only way
to get there is by boat. From
Kasane, the main town of the
Chobe National Park area,
you are transferred in a small
comfortable vessel which
meanders along the river for
no more than 15 minutes.
On arrival you are met by
beautifully dressed, smiling
staff and helped on board. The
restaurant is anchored with
massive weights just off the
shoreline. It is an octagon,
with circular benches around
the edges of the vessel and the
braai area in the centre.
This project was built with
90% re-cycled material, from
the tanks that the restaurant
floats on, the wood used for
the main structure (sides and
PHOTO: CORNELIA RAUTENBACH
into another container so as
not to drain into the river and
cause pollution. Toilets are
porta potties and all waste is
removed and disposed of in
the proper manner.
As you enjoy your meal the
raft gently swings in a serene
circular motion, providing
an ever changing view and
a panorama of one of the
most famous wildlife areas in
Africa. Be vigilant, as there is
always something going on
– wildlife to watch on Sedudu
Island not far from the vessel,
constant bird activity, elephant
crossing the river and hippo
interacting and providing
constant background sound.
On the opposite side of the
river Namibians herd their
Nguni cattle or pass by in
mekoro (dugout canoes) or
banana boats, ferrying locals
to and from the remotest
villages in the northeastern tip
of Namibia.
NEW PRODUCT
Chobe Water Villas update
ZT CORRESPONDENT
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.flameofafrica.com
The project of re-building an
abandoned lodge,formerly
known as Kings Den, on the
banks of the Chobe River
on Namibian soil, started in
August 2013; the planned
completion date of the new
lodge, renamed Chobe Water
Villas, is July 2015.
The ceiling of the main area
of the lodge has been raised
and the floor raised by nearly
a metre, while further development is ongoing:
The infinity pool is well in
progress.
The structures for the
decking in front of the main
area joining the pool have
been set.
The staff quarters are near
completion.
PHOTO: FLAME OF AFRICA
ZT CORRESPONDENT
floor), the wood for tables, to
the metal for the cooking area.
PHOTO: FLAME OF AFRICA
The far-away place
Architect’s impression of the infinity pool in the public area
The main structures of all 11
villas (not including honeymoon
rooms) are near completion
with doors fitted, partitions
for bathrooms done, flooring
and outside verandahs near
completion.
Main kitchen has had some
alterations, and additions will
follow.
The foundations for the suspension bridge are in place and
the main structure should
start to take shape soon.
The manager’s house has
had custom-made kitchen
furnishings fitted and is looking great.
The generator is in place
and workshop complete.
The decking around the
main lodge will take some
time as this is a huge area.
A very special island retreat in the wilderness
ZT CORRESPONDENT
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.flameofafrica.com
T
here is an island
in Africa where
man still moves
to the rhythm
of the seasons. Defined by
the Zambezi and Chobe
Rivers, and isolated in
completion by the Kasai
Channel that connects
the two rivers, Impalila
Island may well be one of
the most geo-politically
isolated places on earth.
Once part of a great
African kingdom, the
island today is isolated
from the outside world
due to colonial miscalculations. But Impalila Island
is a place where man and
the wilderness still exist in
relative harmony with each
other – a harmony that can
be experienced by visitors who allow themselves
the luxury of letting go of
their preconceived ideas of
wilderness.
Impalila Island is the
easternmost point of
Namibia and surrounded
by three countries,
Botswana, Zambia and
Zimbabwe. It is the only
place on earth where four
countries come together in
one place.
Formed from basalt
bedrock, the island has rich
soils and vast floodplains
that make for a unique
ecosystem. In fact the
island ecosystem is known
as Impalila Woodland and
occurs nowhere else in
Africa. The vegetation of
the island is a combination
of central and southern
African species – many of
which reach their distribution extremities on
Impalila.
The waters around the
island are renowned for
fishing, with the much
sought-after tiger fish
being the main prize. The
birdlife is exceptional and
visitors can also experience
the culture of the island on
guided village walks and
spend time at a 1,500 year
old baobab – reached by
walking or in an ox-drawn
cart.
There are three lodges
on the island, including
Kaza Safari Lodge which
overlooks the Mambova
Rapids. Management
of Kaza has recently
been taken over by Brett
McDonald of Flame of
Africa Safaris, and he has
quickly set his mark on the
product, ensuring there
will be much for the visitor
to Kaza Safari Lodge and
Impalila Island to appreciate.
Kaza Safari Lodge
On the banks of the Chobe River, beneath a 700 year-old baobab
WHERE FOUR COUNTRIES MEET!
Botswana Chobe Day Trips Game Drives Boat cruises Transfers
Fishing excursions Botswana Lodge Bookings
Namibia Village Tour Fishing Excursions Lodge Bookings Houseboat Bookings
Zambia Livingstone Day Trips Transfers Lodge Bookings
Zimbabwe Vic Falls Day Trips Transfers Lodge Bookings Houseboat Bookings
P.O.Box 368,
Kasane Botswana
Tel/Fax: (+267) 6252248
Email: [email protected]
www.flameofafrica.com
Kick as
s4
Really x4
comfy
Activities * Fly fishing for Tigerfish and other species *
Outstanding birding for 450+ species
* Game cruises on the Chobe River (Chobe National Park)
* Guided island walks -Birding and Botanical * Cultural village
visits * Walk to the 2000 - year old Baobab tree
* Relaxation and regeneration of the soul
Flame of Africa P.O. Box 368 Kasane Botswana
Tel: (+27)31 762 2424 Email: [email protected]
www.flameofafrica.com
30
CHOBE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
COMMUNITY
Dogs aplenty visit the vet
But it gets worse: Harriet
closely followed this by saying,
“Even when I’m in surgery at
home I’m dripping with sweat
at the end,” to which fellow
UK volunteer vet Amy Luker
agreed. Botswana + October
+ open-air theatre (a gazebo
offering the only solace
from the beating sun)
= Indescribable!
There was blood, sweat and
tears aplenty; chaos, laughter,
big dogs, tiny pups, barking
dogs, biting dogs, dogs in
wheelbarrows, dogs in shopping baskets, dogs in Spar
bags and a few cats. It was a
tough six days but Amy and
Harriet impressed everyone
with their efficiency, experience, confidence and determination.
Alongside the incredible
hard work of vet nurses Kelly
Spence and Kesego Leokame,
from Maun Animal Welfare
Society, and a number of extra
Kasane hands we had a first
class team and the numbers
CLASSIFIEDS
CHOBE
Advertise in Chobe Classifieds
[email protected] | +267 (0) 716 176 02
Bureau de Change
Cape 2 Cairo Bureau de Change
Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa Mall (Spar
Complex)
Tel: +267 6252483
Shop 5, Kazungula Junction
Tel: +267 6252485
Cell: 72138618 or 72116479
Website: www.cape2cairobureau.com
Purified Water
Bottling Plant
Aquarite Botswana: Manufacturers of
purified bottled water and soda water.
Refill your container with purified water at
a fraction of the cost. Based in Kazungula
next to Chobe Beverages and in Maun.
Contact head office: +267 686 0283 or
Lorraine: +267 72989574.
Computers
& Internet
Kasane Computers.
Internet cafe,
WiFi zone,
photocopying,
laminating, binding,
typing, rubber stamps,
ink cartridges,
toners, CD/DVDs,
PCs/Laptops, printers,
PC repairs and more.
Offices – Audi Centre, Kasane (opp.
Chobe Marina Lodge) and Kazungula
Junction (near Engen Garage).
Phone +267 625 2313 or
fax +267 625 2537 or
email: [email protected]
Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa (New Arcade - Spar Complex)
Fax/Tel: + 267 625 2483 Cell: + 267 721 16479
Shop 5 Kazungula Junction (Near Engen)
Tel: +267 625 2485
[email protected]
We saw another two cases
of TVT and I’m sure we’ll
see many more until the
population of free-roaming
unsterilised dogs is eliminated
– further motive to keep up
these campaigns!
www.cape2cairobureau.com
PHOTO: SARAH PEERLESS
“
I’m no good in the
heat,” UK volunteer
vet Harriet Stewart
proclaimed on arrival
in Kasane. My heart sank.
Botswana + October = Superhot! The apprehension I had
about the week ahead started
to grow...
Let’s just say that the
schedule I shared with them
for the week ahead was met
with more than a little anxiety.
Vets, Harriet Stewart and Amy Luker, at work
speak for themselves: 213
patients were seen; 196 were
vaccinated; 128 spayed or
castrated. We easily passed
our target of 20 sterilisations
a day.
This result is all the more
impressive considering the
obstacle thrown our way
at the eleventh hour. The
loudspeakers we were relying
on to spread the word in
Kasane were unavailable. We
had pre-empted this for the
first two days in Kazungula
due to proximity to elections by dropping 400 leaflets
beforehand.
But in Kasane the situation was last minute - we
frantically handed out leaflets
and Sharon Nel came to
the rescue hooking up her
Kubu Lodge vehicle with
loudspeakers and driving the
streets of Kasane and Plateau.
After two quietish days the
numbers picked up.
There was an unexpected
advantage to the relative quiet
- time to target some ‘problem’
dogs. These included two
females living behind Choppies. After eventually catching
them with the aim of spaying
them, both were found to
have TVT, a sexually transmitted cancer. If left untreated
TVT is fatal and sadly, with
no facility in which to treat
them, euthanasia was the only
option.
CHARITY
Blisters for
a worthy
cause
STEVE GRIESEL
[email protected]
I
n October Kasane
inhabitants embarked
on the second of what
will become an annual
event – the ‘Blisters for Sisters
Walk for Life’ in aid of breast
cancer awareness. It was
staged last year by Journey of
Hope, with local organising
and campaigning by Leanne
Britton and Bettina Kelly.
Sadly, Leanne passed away
unexpectedly in June. Several
Kasane residents, including
her spouse Duncan and son
Josh, wanted to continue with
her charitable work which, in
Supporters of Blisters for Sisters on their way to begin their walk
addition to the Blisters walk,
included Christmas functions
for children and assisting the
handicapped children’s school
in Kachikau. A charitable
trust, the Leanne Britton
Foundation, will be set up to
continue with these events
and to assist where possible
with other needs in the
community. This year’s Blisters
walk was ‘the first step’ in
carrying on Leanne’s legacy.
The local Kgosis, heads of
Council and Administration
and all the schools in Kasane
and nearby Kazungula were
visited to build awareness and
invite participants. Posters
were put up and donations
solicited from businesses to
support the event.
Participants started
The estimated cost of
this campaign was around
BWP40,000.00. We’d like to
thank all our supporters, raffle
prize donors and ticket buyers,
who have been instrumental
in helping raise these funds.
Big thanks also to all those
businesses and individuals
who provided accommodation, lunches, dinners and
drinks for the vets and helpers
which kept this cost from
climbing higher.
Falcons to save grain
crops. Issue 18 – incorrect
credit was given for this
photograph. Apologies to
Lynnette Francey who is
the photographer.
PHOTO: BETTINA KELLY
SARAH PEERLESS
gathering at the Caracal
Biodiversity Centre on the
big day, registering, collecting water and buying caps
and Journey of Life trinkets
for breast cancer awareness.
Just over 100 people started
the walk with a police escort
into town. Some plucky ladies
braved the sticky tar and heat
in high heels; pink was definitely the colour, and cheerful
banter and laughter carried
the crowd along the road to
their goal.
The destination was Coffee
Buzz, where stalls selling
refreshments and other wares
had been set up. Many people
joined along the way, with the
final registered number being
137, but probably around 160
finished.
There is a sad addendum
to the event. Polite, a young
primary school child in
Plateau, who was suffering
from cancer, had been brought
to the organisers’ attention
and part of the funds raised
were to be donated to assist
with her medical treatment.
However, she passed away the
week before - and a donation was made instead to her
family for the funeral costs.
Other funds from the walk
will be distributed to Journey
of Hope, the School for the
Handicapped in Kachikau
and the Christmas party for
orphans.
CHOBE
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
31
HYAENA
The secrets of hyaena revealed
LISE HANSSEN
Project Co-ordinator, Kwando
Carnivore Project
[email protected]
www.grantatkinson.com
SOURCE: KWANDO CARNIVORE PROJECT
https://www.facebook.com/
KwandoCarnivoreProject
PHOTO: GRANT ATKINSON
T
he large carnivore research
and conservation work of the
Kwando Carnivore Project
that is carried out in the
Zambezi region (formerly
Caprivi region) of Namibia
has grown from a study of the
demography and ecology of
one species - spotted hyaena.
I discovered that hyaena
numbers, although thought
to be abundant throughout
Bwabwata National Park and
the protected areas of the east
Spotted hyaena are adaptable hunters, and will enter water without hesitation
in pursuit of prey, or to cross over water to reach new hunting areas
CONSERVATION
Marching for elephant
ZT correspondent
O
n World
Animal Day
in October,
a concerted
shout for the preservation
of elephant came from the
‘elephant capital’ of Africa - a
small town called Kasane,
gateway to Chobe National
Park in northern Botswana.
Elephants Without Borders
staged the event.
Kasane folk are proud of
their elephants – the largest
concentration in Africa –
and having registered in the
early morning for the Global
March for Elephant and
Rhino, they stepped forward
in unison towards ‘The Seep’,
a mineral spring that flows
into the Chobe River some
three kilometres distant.
Leading the way in the
March for the survival of
their talisman animal were
Kelly Landen and Mike
Chase, founders of Elephants
Without Borders, who
focused this year’s event on
local communities, with
particular attention to children, who, as future leaders,
will take up the baton for
conservation. The willing
participation of the younger
generation in the March
already bodes well.
Conflicts arise, however,
when conservation collides
with exploitation. The villains
are faceless criminals in
distant cities who make their
fortunes from ivory - supplied
PHOTO: KELLY LANDEN
www.elephantswithoutborders.org
Kasane folk turn out to show their support for their wildlife
by their pawns, the poachers, who heedlessly slaughter
elephant in the killing fields
of Africa. To eradicate poaching is a massive challenge, but
EWB is up for it alongside
today’s youth.
‘Walking the walk’ were
enthusiastic groups from the
local junior secondary and
primary schools, accompanied by members of the
Botswana Defence Force, the
Department of Wildlife and
National Parks and DWNP’s
anti-poaching unit, Botswana’s Prison Services and
Chobe Brigades – a technical
training institution, as well as
local businesses and tourist
operators, many of whom
had also donated towards the
festivities and prizes.
Music, dance and song
can touch people’s hearts, and
there was much activity at The
Seep, kicked off by uniformed
BDF personnel who gave an
exhibition of precision marching. The Chobe Arts Group
acted, danced and sang.
Wearing realistic head masks,
they portrayed life in the bush
for elephant, lion and buffalo
and broadcast warnings of
three evils - poaching, litter
and fires - as major dangers
to wildlife. Finally, youthful
marimba musicians, the Bana
ba Ditlou (Children of the
Elephants) with their lilting
rhythms and irresistible beat,
lured locals of all ages into the
arena to enjoy some uninhibited dancing.
The raffle draw had the
crowd hanging on each result,
applauding uproariously the
lucky winners of donated
game drives, river cruises,
meals for two, and even a
night at an up-market lodge –
many new best friends helping
the recipients to collect their
vouchers! Furthermore, the
gift of a boat cruise into the
Park for six children and a
teacher from every school
to see wild creatures at close
quarters in their own environment, underwrote EWB’s
commitment to youth and the
future of our planet.
Inspiring addresses
from the MC and District
Commissioner, Dr T Mmusi,
with closing words from
Kasane’s Kgosi Mwezi,
brought the event to a close.
Between now and next year’s
march it’s hoped the spirit of
this day, as celebrated similarly
throughout the world, will
spread.
A hyaena cub peering out at its mother from the den in a termite mound. This
photo was taken with a infrared camera placed at the den to monitor the clan
structure
Zambezi, were far fewer than
generally believed.
Through location data
from GPS satellite collars, I
was able to establish home
range size and use, (which
varies between 300 and
800km2) and find hyaena dens,
where clan size and structure
could be established through
observation and camera trapping. Clan sizes in the early
years of the study were no
more than five adults, with
only between one and three
small cubs in a den at any one
time. On one occasion a small
cub of the Mudumu Clan
had to grow up on his own,
being the only cub in the clan
during that time.
The study resulted in
spotted hyaena being removed
from trophy hunting quotas
in and around protected areas
by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, which has
been tremendously supportive
of the carnivore conservation
work.
Throughout the years of
the hyaena study I collected
scat to identify their prey
choices through analysis
of prey remains and hair.
Unexpectedly, we found that
reedbuck made up over half
the diet of spotted hyaena,
followed by buffalo calves
and lechwe. Impala and kudu,
which are abundant in the
parks of Zambezi, were not
the favoured prey choice. This
information was instrumental
in understanding home range
use of spotted hyaena that live
adjacent the Kwando River
system, where they feed on
floodplain species that are
relatively easy to catch.
Most importantly, we
discovered that spotted
hyaena in the Zambezi region
are dependent on transboundary movement for
long-term persistence. East
Zambezi hyaena move into
Sioma Ngwezi National Park
in Zambia and Bwabwata
hyaena regularly spend time
in Angola and Botswana. In
addition, the east Zambezi
hyaena depend on the mosaic
of landscapes for their
survival, including protected
areas, community forests and
multiple land-use conservancies which are occupied by
people and their livestock.
Currently the biggest
threat to spotted hyaena
in the Zambezi region of
Namibia is vehicle-related
mortality, specifically big
trucks that travel through
Bwabwata National Park at
night and the early hours
of the morning to deliver
products to countries that lie
further north. Trucks are also
responsible for the deaths of
many sub-adult wild dog that
are making a comeback in the
region.
It appears that spotted
hyaena are making a recovery. A recent survey that we
carried out in Bwabwata
National Park revealed that
clans have recently settled in
the multiple-use areas where
previously they occurred at
very low density. In addition,
the survival of adult spotted
hyaena in the core conservation areas is good. During the
course of 2014 we were able
to record individuals from the
Kwando Clan (the original
study clan from 2009) from
a camera trapping exercise
which showed every single
marked adult was still alive,
five years later.
We are in the process of
carrying out a camera trapping survey of hyaena and
other large carnivores, which
we hope will be a useful tool
for long-term monitoring.
Early results suggest that
hyaena appear to be colonising some parts of conservancies outside of protected areas,
which strongly suggests a
general recovery of habitat
and wildlife species in the
region. Despite this positive
outcome, hyaena continue to
have a bad image and remain
vulnerable to land-use change
and loss of habitat.
The Kwando Carnivore
Project is currently carrying
out surveys and conservation
work on all large carnivore
species, and works with the
Ministry of Environment,
conservancies and other
stakeholders in humancarnivore conflict mitigation
in the Zambezi and Kavango
regions of Namibia.
ZIMBABWE
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
HARARE
On your way to the Zambezi
39
issue 12 for ipad app only
COMMUNITY
Can bees save our wild lands?
JANINE ANKETELL-VARDEN
https://www.facebook.com/#!/
pages/Honey-for-Money/838439526179048
Members of the Honey for Money bee project with their newly made beehives
our photographic tourism
operation. However, in the last
decade we found we needed
to find other ways to engage
the community for them to
live in harmony with wildlife.
We believe Honey for
Money is one of these solutions for Africa.
As bee populations
continue to plummet in developed countries, coming under
huge pressure from pesticides
and disease, Africa is being
seen as one of the next big
honey producers. The African
honey bee, Apis mellifera
spp. scutellata, is considered
a robust species in the bee
world. African bees are
relatively healthy compared
to their cousins in developed
countries.
To date Honey for Money
has trained over 400 beekeepers around wildlife areas, who
are now set to start benefiting from honey production.
Honey for Money can also be
the market linkage if required.
Honey for Money will buy
honey at the prevailing market
rate; we don’t set the rate, it’s
a fair trade price based on all
the information we have at
hand.
Another big problem that
beekeeping can help address
in Zimbabwe is that of deforestation – in the last 2013/14
tobacco season, Zimbabwe
lost over 300,000 acres of
indigenous hard woods.
The modification of
land use in recent years has
caused many challenges and
one of them is manifesting
itself through the massive
increase of small-scale tobacco
growing. With little option
to making a living on newly
settled lands, settlers are
turning to tobacco and the
environmental impacts of this
scenario are now being felt.
this is done with electricity
or coal, heat being forced
through barns at a constant
and specific temperature.
Predominantly Virginia
tobacco is grown, which has
to be heat – or flue – cured.
Apart from being supplied the
inputs, most farmers have no
financial support for the crop,
thus when it comes to curing,
they turn to indigenous trees,
while on commercial farms
Many settlers who started
with one barn and an acre of
tobacco now have three barns
and increased acreage. There
is no electricity in these areas
and thus no option for flue
curing; use of coal requires
a complex burner system.
With over 75,000 small-scale
tobacco growers registered
for the 2015 season, it’s not
rocket science to work out
that this is a totally unsustainable use of our indigenous
hardwoods.
CONSERVATION
World
Animal
Day
Photo: Courtesy Dr Helene Donohoe
James Varden and I,
operating as Varden Safaris
in the Mavhuradonha
Wilderness Area in northeastern Zimbabwe, began
looking at alternative ways
to assist the community
when income from tourism
declined. As a CAMPFIRE
project, our concession in
Mavhuradonha had ensured
communities benefited from
PHOTO: JANINE ANKETELL-VARDEN
W
herever
there is
poverty and
wildlife
there is always poaching. But
poaching as perceived by the
law is not necessarily seen
as poaching by communities
living with wildlife. Culturally,
dating back to when man first
walked this earth, the bush
has been regarded as a larder
and wildlife as food. To tell
people living around wildlife
areas not to poach without
offering a sustainable substitute is a recipe for conflict.
Animals Matter
ZT CORRESPONDENT
O
n October 4,
2014, Harare
supporters of
the ‘Animals
Matter’ march, joined
in the inaugural World
Animal Day event, with a
mission to call on the United
Nations, policy makers and
citizens everywhere to support
the cause for urgent change
in regards to animal welfare
and wildlife protection, with
a Universal Declaration on
Animal Welfare. Dr Helene
Donohoe, one of the speakers
35 Kingsmead Road West, Borrowdale,
Harare, Zimbabwe.
Tel: +263 4 882133
Email: [email protected]
www.wine.co.zw
TheStableWinery
and a leading local activist, highlighted the fact
that we are experiencing
ever decreasing numbers
of wild game for human
greed and unless something
drastic can be achieved, the
elephant population, for
example may be extinct by
2020.
In the new tobacco era,
there is a double impact on
the environment due to the
fact that wood must be cut
to cure the bricks that make
the home-made curing barns,
as well as to provide heat for
curing the tobacco.
Beekeeping needs few
basics – food and water must
be easily available for the bees.
No trees, no bees. Beekeeping and mixed cropping with
herbs can increase small
plot agricultural output and
financial gain. If trees, water
resources and pasturelands are
maintained in a bee-friendly
manner, livestock, wildlife
and the environment also
benefit.
Beekeeping for Africa it’s a no-brainer – anyone
can do it! Beekeeping
provides income - protects
habitat – and pollinates food
crops. Minimal investment maximum return on effort.
ROAD TRAVEL - ZIMBABWE
Expert advice
Vehicle equipment
Camping supplies
BigSkySupplies
www.bigsky.co.zw
40
HARARE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
ACTIVITIES
WEDDING S
Planning the
perfect wedding
Find the fun of flying
In Harare venues like Wild Geese offer the feel
of the destination wedding without having to
travel too far at great expense.
Sheryl Christmas
www.wildgeeselodge.com
www.scottyphotography.com
Most of the top
wedding venues have their
own co-ordinators and
work alongside hiring
specialists and wedding
planners, who can assist
with the majority of the
logistical planning, leaving
the bride and groom to
make more informed decisions for every aspect of the
wedding. Once the venue is
chosen, only hard work will
ensure the day is a success.
One of the more recent fixed wing microlights flying down the runway at Komani - built in Zimbabwe from a kit designed and manufactured in Johannesburg, a
five-month build time
www.executiveair.com
www.flyhac.com
www.komaniflying.net
L
earning to fly must
rate as one of the
most exhilarating experiences
anyone can imagine and
Zimbabwe provides an ideal
climate. There are opportunities for residents or visitors to
the country to fly to any local
or regional destination, enjoy
flying as a sport, or learn to fly
for a career in aviation.
Ideal times to fly in
Zimbabwe are during the
months of April through
to November. The cooler
months provide better performance temperatures, whereas
the summer months allow for
earlier departures and stunning views, although during
the rains careful scheduling
is often required. Operators
adhere to stringent safety and
maintenance regulations for
both air charter companies
and air sports enthusiasts.
Komani Flying Club,
home to Harare’s light air
sport enthusiasts, caters
to members with aircraft
ranging from Weight Shift
‘trikes’ to the more sophisticated LSA type aircraft
such as the Sling, Savannah
and Sting, as well as gliders
and model aircraft. Facilities
for members include a club
venue, licensing for pilots and
aircraft, as well as regulatory examinations under the
governing body of light sport
in Zimbabwe, the Zimbabwe
Recreational Aircraft Association. Members often organise
excursions to destinations in
Zimbabwe and the region
and welcome visitors and new
members wishing to take up
the sport. Komani is a noncommercial organisation.
Air Charter companies
provide tailor-made itineraries
throughout Zimbabwe and
Africa, all varying in price
according to the route and
size or type of aircraft, and
operate within the restrictions and regulations of the
Civil Aviation Authority of
Zimbabwe.
Executive Air is based at
Charles Prince Airport which
includes Customs and Immigration offices during normal
daylight hours. Executive Air
clients can also be transferred
to and from Harare International terminal for arrivals
and departures. The company
will soon be offering competitive rates for Private Pilot’s
Licence (PPL) training, and
are in the final stages of the
SOURCE: KOMANI FLYING CLUB
Sheryl Christmas
A couple of trikes on the airstrip at Komani, early one morning before departing to marshal on one of the annual air rallies
Civil Aviation Approval.
All their students will be
members of the Mashonaland
Flying Club. The company
is approved to carry out
maintenance on a wide range
of Zimbabwean, Zambian and
South African aircraft.
Halsted’s Aviation
Corporation has a complement of aircraft to service all
types of air charter travel, as
well as helicopter services,
and partners with a South
African company that meets
necessary audit requirements
to lease jet services. Operating out of Harare International Airport, the company
is actively involved in the
implementation of safety and
quality assurance management
programmes. All aircraft are
tracked with satellite tracking
while remaining in communication throughout the flight.
One of Zimbabwe’s
most sought-after wedding
venues for both locals and
international visitors is on
the outskirts of Harare Wild Geese Lodge offers a
luxury setting overlooking
a private wildlife sanctuary
with the Mazowe hills in
the distance.
Once booked well
in advance, the lodge’s
functions co-ordinator
can advise on all on-site
arrangements and offers
a list of recommended
service providers, from
photographers to car hire
PHOTO: CHRISTOPHER SCOTT
E
very couple
dreams of
the perfect
wedding in an
exotic location - deciding
on a venue for the big day
is an experience in itself.
Zimbabwe is the perfect
place to tie the knot, and
Harare is renowned as
a wedding destination,
offering tailor-made events,
whatever the budget or
scenic preference.
and make-up artists, for
any budget.
Some of the most
memorable aspects of the
wedding will include the
ceremony itself, followed
by the catering, decor and,
of course, the festivities.
Choosing the right music,
whether it be a top DJ,
talented string quartet
or marimba band, is a
pre-requisite to ensure an
enjoyable occasion.
For budget conscious
couples, Harare boasts
some excellent restaurants
with a variety of cuisine,
fine wines and facilities to
cater for intimate gatherings, as well as larger
events.
Alternatively, organisers can hire marquees or
venues and choose from
one of many excellent
decor specialists, as well
as caterers and florists, to
make the day an unforgettable occasion. There are
many excellent lodges and
gardens, hotels, golf clubs
and restaurants to choose
from in Harare to host any
size wedding imaginable.
~ We are here to fly you there ~
AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE | MEDICAL EVACUATION | PRIVATE CHARTER
Tel: +263 4 303831 Cell: +263 772 472 593 - 5
Email: [email protected] Skype: executive_air
Your Corporate Destination
We’re flexible to suit your needs & budget
‘Oasis of Tranquility’
+263 772 260 531 / +263 4 490352
[email protected] / [email protected]
www. casakadiki.co.zw
Tel: 04 2917977 – 9 Cell: 077 2 145 103 Email: [email protected] 2 Buckland Lane, Teviotdale www.wildgeeselodge.com
32
ZIMBABWE & ZAMBIA
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
kariba & middle zambezi
Conservation – Community – Wildlife – World Heritage – History – Tourism
ANGLING
The fish which won a car
T
he tiger fish came
to the party at
this year’s Kariba
Invitation Tiger
Fish Tournament which took
place in October. Nearly 700
more fish were caught than
last year – all the more significant considering that this
year’s team entries were 113,
eight down from last year.
Anglers suggested that the
warmer climatic conditions
were owing to the tournament being held a few weeks
later in the year than the 2013
event.
A total of 2,554 fish were
weighed in with a total weight
This year’s winning team
was Charter Remington Gold,
winning by a 3.5kg margin.
Trek Petroleum created a stir
by snatching second place
from Charter Africom on day
three of the tournament with
an impressive 46.165kg third
day haul.
A Chevrolet Utility
sponsored by Autoworld
Zimbabwe was the prize for
the fisherman who caught the
biggest tiger fish over 10kg.
And it was Patrick Driscoll of
team Charter Africom who
stole the spotlight when he
caught a 12.03kg leviathan on
day one of the tournament,
KITFT 2014 Start day 1
PHOTO: Katherine Smit
winning himself the brand
new Chevy Utility.
Unfortunately the Catch
and Release sub-tournament
of KITFT was discontinued
this year owing to the low
level of interest shown by
anglers toward the catch and
release programme in the
2012 and 2013 tournaments.
“Our thanks to all anglers
and support staff who added
to the spirit of the largest four
man single freshwater species
tournament in the world.
KITFT are very grateful for
the continued support from
our sponsors, helping make
KITFT 2014 a success. Thank
you to Isuzu, Ram Petroleum,
Telecel and Zambezi who
are our Gold sponsors of the
tournament,” said KITFT
vice chairman, David Whitehead.
The top ten teams of
KITFT 2014 will contend for
the ‘Test of the Best’ title to
be held in February 2015.
PHOTO: Gary Hume
www.kitft.co.zw
of 4,935kg and averaging
1.932kg each. In comparison,
2013 saw just 1,863 fish,
weighing on average 1.963kg
with a total of 3,656kg.
Patrick Driscoll of CHARTER AFRICOM with his fantastic fish weighing
12.035kg on the shoulders of team mate Michael Stone
In Kariba?
We’ve got you covered!
With our four RAM garages
in prime Kariba locations
Marineland
Chawara Harbour
Charara NAU
Anchorage Marina
PHOTO: Gary Hume
MANA MEADOWS
Ram Petroleum
Louise Swart of CHARTER ‘S’ with her special catch on day 2
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
33
TOURISM
A special forest on the Zambezi
ALAN SPARROW
A
s a Kalahari
sandveld forester,
for me the ideal
forest environment would be closed- canopy
teak forest, but with over
a century of logging, it is
difficult to find undisturbed
teak forest. Perhaps in the
southeastern area of Angola
in the Luiana Protected Area
someone will yet find teak
forests that have never been
logged.
We have become accustomed to thinking of forests
as open parkland woodlands,
such as is typical of the
southern bank of the Zambezi
River at Mana Pools. So it
was with real appreciation
that I saw the closed-canopy
Faidherbia albida woodlands in the Lower Zambezi
National Park in Zambia in
October.
Impala feeding on albida pods
The wildlife viewing was
spectacular due to the albida
woodland along the river and
on the islands opposite Mana
Pools. At the end of the dry
season albida pods support
Elephant in the Lower Zambezi forests
large numbers of wildlife and
it is an awesome sight to see
elephant, buffalo and many
other species gathered in the
woodland. With an abundance of prey species come
the large predators. We saw
leopard at close range stalking
a herd of impala busy feeding
on albida pods.
The Lower Zambezi
TOURISM
WILLIAM FIELDS
[email protected]
www.spurwingisland.com
A
s I rounded
the last few
bends of the
scenic undulating Makuti Hill range,
the Zambezi valley floor
opened to a blue horizon
- the magical expanse of
water that is Kariba. This
lake forms a natural moat
surrounding my destination – Spurwing Island - a
slice of paradise secreted
away from the busy outside
world.
After a short boat crossing,
a mirage-like cluster of green
backed by blue hills was my
first sighting of the island.
Our boat entered the secluded
harbour and the blurry green
shapes emerged as magnificent giant indigenous trees
that have been undisturbed
by elephant and have had a
chance to cover and shade the
entire camp.
All of the lodges are
nestled under these trees and
look out across the shimmering fish-filled water which
ends at the Matusadona hills.
The entire lodge is under
thatch and is aesthetically
SOURCE: spurwing island
A verdant
island paradise
The lakeside game viewing at this island retreat will delight any visitor
pleasing and unobtrusive.
Three types of accommodation are available: the most
commonly booked are the
tents as they are the coolest
rooms; the cabins are situated
furthest from the bar and
dining areas and are therefore
the most secluded; while the
chalets are larger and much
more spacious. The three
chalets are often booked by
honeymooners or husbands
seeking forgiveness.
Photos: ALAN SPARROW
National Park in Zambia
will in future be linked to
Mana Pools National Park in
Zimbabwe and establish the
Lower Zambezi/Mana Pools
Transfrontier Conservation
Area. Visit the Lower
Zambezi National Park in
Zambia… you will not be
sorry.
Spurwing is a retreat
that for years has been dear
to many local Zimbabwean
hearts like mine. It is unequivocally the most child-friendly,
family-safe environment there
is on the lake. The staff are
well practised in looking out
for kids who often disappear
exploring within the fenced
area of the camp. The guides
are great with youngsters,
taking them out fishing or
game driving, which often
end in mud fights, but most
importantly give parents a
chance to catch their breath
and unwind.
functions - it has catered
in previous years for
upward of 150 people. It
is a safe environment to
host these events as there
is no driving necessary and
all the rooms are ‘carrying
distance’ from the bar!
The bar is the iconic
centre-piece of the camp,
looking out southeast
towards the Sanyati Gorge
to catch both the sunrise
and sunset.
Spurwing can accommodate up to 50 people,
including use of the refurbished family house that
caters for 10. The island has
hosted numerous weddings,
parties and other functions
and can call upon a number
of houseboats for larger
Day guests off houseboats are welcome and
with enough prior warning
the lodge can do meals for
them. Cold drinks, a clean
pool and ablutions and
plenty of shade are certain
at Spurwing Island. When
it was time for me to leave,
I was already planning the
next occasion when I could
return.
Where luxury meets the wild
For reservations:
Tel: +260 (0) 979 486618
Email: [email protected]
Royal Zambezi Lodge, is an intimate family-owned property on the banks of the majestic
Zambezi River. Our lodge offers world class fishing, unrivalled game-viewing, magnificent sunset river
cruises, professionally guided canoeing trips & one of the only spas in Zambia
Royal’s breathtaking surroundings are perfectly positioned to spot elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard from
the comfort of your room.
The professional guides and highly trained staff are local to the area and love to share their passion for their
home in the Zambezi Valley.
www.royalzambezilodge.com
34
KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
CONSERVATION
NICHOLAS MILNE
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.bumihills.com
S
High-tech boat
targets poachers
triving to prevent
the illegal removal
of natural resources
in and around
Lake Kariba, the Bumi Hills
Anti Poaching Unit recently
received delivery of a state of
the art patrol boat. Officially launched at the Kariba
The custom- designed boat,
equipped with radar, sonar and GPS
systems, is powered by a highly
efficient, and virtually silent, Suzuki
four-stroke outboard motor
Invitation Tiger Fish Tournament, the custom- designed
boat, equipped with radar,
CLASSIFIEDS
[email protected] | +263 (0) 77 555 3571
Activities
Kariba Bream Farm: Fee fishing. Fun
for children, mom and dad too.
Situated at Chawara.
Phone: +263 (0) 772236632
Fishing
Bait: Catch that elusive tiger fish with live
bait, available from Kariba Bream Farm.
Deliveries to Makuti can be arranged for
river fishermen.
Contact: Debbie +263 (0) 772236632
Food Supplies
Blue Waters @ Andora Harbour,
Kariba: We offer beers & soft drinks
on a ‘sale on return’ basis, plus ice &
fishing bait.
Contact: [email protected]
Crispy Fresh: Visit our One Stop Shop!
Suppliers of all dairy, beef, pork, poultry,
fresh fruit, vegetables & dry goods. All
you will need for your holiday to Kariba.
Email: [email protected]
Tel: +263 61 2880/3024/2592 or +263
773 921 687
GPS LOC 16.530266. 28. 772416
Kariba Catering: Our catering will
enhance your holiday experience for
houseboat, travel and lodges. We offer
both set and customised menus to
suit a variety of taste buds and dietary
requirements.
Contact: Kim Parramore +263 (0)
772525981
HARBOURS
Chawara Harbour: Suppliers of all fuel,
oils, drinks, ice, bait, biltong, dry wors &
chilli bites.
Contact: Colin or Debbie
Cell: +263 774 143 064
Phone: =263 61 3278
Email: [email protected]
Marineland Harbour: Your one stop
gateway to Lake Kariba, provides a
full range of activities and services for
your holiday convenience: mooring,
boat storage, houseboat charters, lake
transfers, boat hire, shop, fuel, drinks,
[email protected]
www.bumihills.com
+(263-4) 307082/4
HARBOURS
ice, secure parking, catering, launching,
fishing equipment & bait.
Open every day 7.30 am to 5pm.
Contact: [email protected]
Tel: +263 773923500
Hardware
Endura Rubba Paints: For all your
requirements of Dulux paints, lubricants,
thinners, resin, fibreglass, filters,
Eezipool products, V belts & accessories,
tandem lawnmowers, Eureka DIY and
more.
Contact: Nikki – 0774 060 717
Tiri – 0775 965 547
Landline: 061 2325
Tours and Safaris
Avoca Marine Transfers: Now
operating from Marineland Harbour.
For all your lake transfers to the various
camps & lodges on Kariba’s lakeshore.
Contact: Tendai or Chipo at Marineland
or [email protected]
[email protected]
Tel: 263 61 2237 / 2845
Mobile: +263 773 923 500 or
+263 773 923 516
Mopani Cruises: For all your incentive
travel on houseboats & catering, lodges,
transfers & day trip bookings.
Cutty Sark Hotel, Kariba.
Email: [email protected] or
[email protected]
Sheer Magic Houseboat – Kariba,
Zimbabwe: For a fantastic pontoon
houseboat experience!
Contact: Sonya McMaster
+263 772 874 352
Email: [email protected]
Wild Dog Tours: Self-catering
accommodation and houseboat bookings
in Kariba.
Contact:
Nikki - +263 61 2325/ +263 776 821 735
Email: [email protected]
KARIBA
Advertise in
Kariba Classifieds
Tours and Safaris
Four great comfortable air conditioned
houseboats:
Karibeer
Sundowner (newly launched)
Tantalika
Zambuka
This boat will go a long way in assisting the police to catch poachers
sonar and GPS systems, is
powered by a highly efficient,
and virtually silent, Suzuki
four-stroke outboard motor.
The new vessel was
involved in marshalling and
recovery duties during the
tournament, where the radar
and other systems were put
to good use, ensuring that
competitors abided by all the
rules - and it was instrumental
in removing 300m of illegal
twin gill netting from the
For Bookings, please contact:
Steve and Glynis Nobbs
Cell: +263 772 249 040
Email: [email protected]
Drifter & Makulu Houseboats:
Kariba, Zimbabwe. Large pontoon-type
houseboats, taking up to 16 pax each.
Ideal for enjoying a special Kariba
holiday. Contact: Sonya McMaster +263
(0) 772 874 352
PHOTOS: NICHOLAS MILNE
Within the first
week of operation, following delivery of
the boat to the
unit based at
Bumi Hills Safari Lodge in late
October, it had
already resulted
in the arrest of 14
poachers.
Gache Gache area of the lake
while responding to a recovery
call-out.
Malachite Imfant Houseboat: Twinengined pontoon boat on Kariba. Very
comfortable 16 PAX, 4 cabins. All
amenities plus Jacuzzi pool and lots of
space.
Contact: Tiny +263 (0) 774 136 207
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.malachiteimfant.com
Within the first week of
operation, following delivery
of the boat to the unit based
at Bumi Hills Safari Lodge
in late October, it had already
resulted in the arrest of 14
poachers, mainly Zambian
nationals, with their associated equipment, all of whom
were handed over to the
Zimbabwe Republic Police
for processing.
Musango Island Safari Camp: For a
wonderful wildlife experience. Fishing,
cruising, game drives, walks, cultural
trips, canoeing.
Contact: Wendy +263 772 307 875
Email: [email protected]
Nautique Houseboat Charters:
Houseboat charters from $250/night.
Bookings through a Kariba based
destination planner & incentive travel
organiser who can also arrange your
accommodation, tours and catering
supplies.
Contact : [email protected].
Tele +263 771 486251 & + 263 773
920858
www.facebook.com/ulakariba
Most lake-based poaching
activities are carried out under
cover of darkness, which has
in the past proved a challenge
for the unit and local authorities. This is no longer the case
with the radar system on the
new boat, which affords the
operator a 360˚ virtual view of
his surroundings in complete
darkness, allowing the boat to
creep up silently on targets.
Vunduful Houseboat, Kariba: Max
pax 20 (comfortable with 8 – 16 pax), 4
cabins, accessible and safe, wide stairs,
suitable for all ages. Swimming pool,
2 tender boats, efficient crew, catering
arranged. Website: www.vunduful.co.za
Email: [email protected]
Phone: + 263 (0) 772 348 091 E-mail: [email protected]
Bumi Hills Anti-Poaching
Unit is a privately operated
and funded initiative that
works in conjunction with the
relevant local authorities and
other privately run initiatives
to rehabilitate, protect and
preserve the natural resources
in and around Lake Kariba,
Zimbabwe.
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
35
Conservation
Counting wildlife in Mana
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
T
he solitary
painted dog
chased the
nyala antelope
out of view towards Long
Pool. We heard a splash
rapidly followed by anxious
canine yelps. The dog quickly
returned to its pack and Long
Pool became a frothy mass of
angry hippos and prehistoric
predators.
In the centre of the bedlam
a crocodile tail rotated vertically more than a metre out
of the water as another ten
reptiles scavenged the prey
below. We had, an hour
earlier, counted two nyala
during our Long Pool south
walk; we now needed to adjust
that number to one. This, my
twelfth Mana Pools game
count, was proving to be just
as unique as previous years.
Jane and Kelvin Hein
and Paul Stidolph started
the Mana Pools game count
back in 1993. Twenty-one
years later there are still a
dozen static counts within the
2,190km2 World Heritage
Site, but the majority of the
participants choose to walk.
This year saw 230 volunteers
split into 40 teams of four to
six people, walking twice daily
on pre-determined transects
through the Park’s 45km2
central floodplain.
Spaced 500m apart,
teams walk due north from
the inland roads toward the
Zambezi River. They count all
mammals and specified birds
250m to the left and right,
noting numbers, direction,
time of day and if possible the
gender. Recently we have been
required to estimate individual
elephant sizes in matriarchal
herds.
around solitary bull elephants
absorbed in the daily task of
foraging for albida pods.
Walks commence at
around 6.30am and 3.30pm
and theoretically all teams
travel at the same pace across
the floodplain. Mana’s resident mammals, however, aren’t
always aware of this idea and
The compiled figures
provide important information to ZimParks ecologists
on environmental impact and
trends. This helps to ensure
that ZimParks’s management
interventions and planning
are carried out with the most
accurate information available.
Along with the early
morning starts, par for the
course are intense heat,
mosquitoes and Nyamepi
Camp’s cool box-raiding
hyaenas. Many volunteers
return annually to contribute
towards Zimbabwe’s wildlife and conservation, whilst
having a wonderful time in an
extraordinary environment.
Transect walks vary in
length between two and four
kilometres. Some teams organise a vehicle to return them
to camp but we opted to walk
back to the transect start point
to fully utilise our time in this
special environment. Mana
Pools is the only national big
game park in Africa where it
is possible to walk unaccompanied by a guide.
Education
Special
schooling
in the wild
RIFA Educational
Conservation Camp
Harare Office
HELEN PATCHETT
[email protected]
www.rifaconservation.org
S
tudents pile out
of the back of
the landcruiser
clutching quadrants, clinometers, ranging
poles and infiltration rings.
Carmine bee-eaters look
down inquisitively from
their perches above the
dried up Chipandaure River
as the morning’s geography
class starts. Interspersed
between sedimentation
and drainage experiments
Counting animals in Mana Pools
many a team has been delayed.
We once perched on a termite
mound for nearly an hour
PHOTO: HELEN PATCHETT
as one of Mana’s 400-plus
buffalo herds passed by. Lions
en route are an obvious reason
to backtrack and detour
and more than once we’ve
had to negotiate our way
the students learn about
plants, spoor and traditional
remedies. This is not your
normal classroom; this is one
of a week’s worth of experiences at RIFA.
Established in 1981, the
RIFA conservation educational camp, just a short
distance upstream from
Chirundu on the Zambezi
River, gives 1,200 children
annually a unique wildlife,
conservation and environmental experience. It operates
at full capacity from March to
October, accommodating up
to 30 children in dormitories,
plus their teachers, and has a
long waiting list from a variety
of educational establishments. Primary and secondary
schools from cities and rural
areas return to RIFA time and
again to make the most of the
special educational environment.
RIFA is not all about classroom syllabus though. The
days are filled with a variety of
PHOTO: HELEN PATCHETT
HELEN PATCHETT
O Level Geography students doing experiments in the Chipandaure River
activities, some of which, like
the mud fight at the nearby
natural hot spring, is just good
old-fashioned fun. Structured
lessons include geography
practicals, learning about
the local flora and fauna, an
impala dissection and subsequent biology revision, firearm
identification and shooting
practice.
Students are split into
teams which take turns at
camp to wash up, assist with
meal preparation and produce
an evening power-point
presentation on their day’s
activities. Impromptu learning
experiences are integrated
into fishing trips, informal
art classes, camouflage games,
reconstructing carcass bones
and volleyball on the beach.
There is, in-between activities, the opportunity to sit and
observe the action along the
old Zambezi River floodplain
on the edge of the camp.
RIFA is home to four of the
Big Five, a variety of antelope
and 155 bird species which include four vulture
species. Throughout the
day elephant meander to
the spring on the far side
of the floodplain before
disappearing on their daily
foraging routine.
After dark, with the aid
of a spotlight or in bright
moonlight, civet, hyaena
and lion may be seen. One
evening a pride of lion
curtailed our post-sunset
return walk to camp from
the river.
There is so much to be
seen and absorbed at RIFA,
formally and informally,
that it is virtually impossible not to learn something
hourly. A week of practical
experiences and lessons
at RIFA far outstrips the
equivalent time spent
in a classroom. The only
drawback is that there are
not more RIFA camps out
there so that more children
can benefit.
BIG DADDY
Big Daddy, recently fully refurbished
and under new management is an
upmarket, spacious 85 foot pontoon
powered by two 210hp Cummins
engines.
BIG DADDY
Email: [email protected]
Cell: 0772 205491
1 double en-suite air conditioned cabin, 3 twin en-suite air conditioned cabins, 2 separate bathrooms, extra
mattresses supplied for sleeping on top deck, Mosquito nets in all cabins; extra for top deck supplied, Salon area
with large windows, bar and dining area, TV with premium bouquet DStv, Surround sound system throughout,
Fully fitted kitchen, Large covered verandah area, with bar area and seating, Splash pool and sun bathing area.
36
MOZAMBIQUE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
cahoRa BASsA & Tete
Conservation – Community – Wildlife – World Heritage – History – Tourism
BUSINESS
Trade centre launched in Tete
FRANK VON HABSBURG
[email protected]
www.prointelafrica.com
B
SOURCE: PRO INTEL
usiness growth, the
development of
trade and of crossborder commercial
ties are some of the factors
that have been fuelling the
growing business environment
in Tete. Tete Business Facilitation Centre was launched to
further promote these aims in
November.
Con Korsten (BEPEC CEO), Domingos Macajo (Governor Representative and Director of BAU), Brian Ritter (acting
South Africa High Commissioner to Mozambique), Frank Von Habsburg (ProIntel CEO)
The Centre is managed and
operated by ProIntel Africa
and boasts equipped and
serviced ‘hot desks’ for use by
members, conferencing facilities, administrative, secretarial
and translation services as
well as business development support and access to
a living database of project
Tete has always been a trade centre, the Arabs were the first traders. Here
Gigi Guimbeau takes us through time. Looking through the crumbling ruins of
the past to the new bridge spanning the Zambezi
opportunities in the region.
It is conveniently located
on the main Tete road in
Matema, adjacent to BCI
bank and opposite the Café
& Compania coffee shop. The
airport is just five minutes
away, and the facility is also
close to several other banks
as well the VALE and ICVL
mines.
The Facilitation Centre
launch event was attended
by Con Korsten, CEO of
BEPEC, export council
members and several special
guests, including Brian Ritter,
the acting South Africa High
Commissioner to Mozambique, who was accompanied
by his economic counsellor,
Matome Kgowedi. Representing the provincial government and the Governor of
Tete Province was Domingos
SOURCE: PRO INTEL
The principal purpose of
the Facilitation Centre is to
offer a platform to subscribed
members from where they can
build relationships with the
existing major projects in Tete
and have accurate intelligence
on new and up-coming projects. Although the Facilitation
Centre is based in Tete, it
covers projects in all areas of
Mozambique.
PHOTO: GIGI GIUMBEAU
Sponsored by the South
African Department of Trade
and Industry, the Build Environment Professionals Export
Council and the Engineering
and Technology Grouping of
Export Councils, the Centre
will serve as a base of initial
operations for businesses
representing various sectors.
Tete Facilitation Centre
Macajo, the director of the
Balcões de Atendimento
Único – Tete.
Con Korsten initiated
formalities with a brief history
of the Facilitation Centre
concept and what services
would be provided. In his
reply, Macajo stressed how
important the Facilitation
Centre was, not only for
South African companies
looking to do business in
the region but also for the
growth and development of
local opportunities and local
personnel.
Ritter gave a detailed
political and economic history
of the relationship between
South Africa and Mozambique to date; South Africa
has been in the top five trade
partners of Mozambique
for the last 20 years. This
explains the enormous interest
expressed by South African
companies in doing business
in Mozambique.
The timing of the launch
of the Facilitation Centre is
a great example of how Tete
and Mozambique are still seen
as offering good commercial
opportunities for foreign
companies and governments, despite the perceived
economic slowdown.
...
Tele : +258 82 509 4300, +258 84 383 6593 |
Email : [email protected] | Web : www.prointelafrica.com |
ProIntel Africa, Avenida Independencia, Box 84,
Tete, Mozambique 50100 |
t
BACK PAGE
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
37
Dear Frances,
FACTfile - Okavango Delta spotted hyaena
Tracking Snaggle’s surprise
itinerary continued from page 26
Botswana Predator
Conservation Trust
2006-2008: The Botswana
Wild Dog Research Project
expands its research
mission to encompass the
entire large predator guild,
becoming a conservation
research organisation called
the Botswana Predator
Conservation Trust.
2008-2010: PhD student
Gabriele Cozzi begins
focused research on
Okavango hyaena. His project
used data from GPS collars
to examine habitat use and
spatial segregation between
spotted hyaena, African
wild dog and lion. Calling
stations were conducted
When examining the
downloaded GPS data from
Snaggle’s collar, we were
surprised to discover that
he spends the majority of
his time in this section of
Moremi. In the days before
his collaring, Snaggle had
likely moved south from
Moremi to feed on the
elephant carcass near our
field camp, and is in fact not a
member of the local clan at all.
The data from Snaggle’s
collar reveals interesting
to estimate the density of
hyaena in various habitats of
this ecosystem. He found that
hyaena densities do not vary
significantly between habitat
types, with an average overall
density estimate of 14.4
hyaena per 100 km2 (Cozzi
et. al, 2013).
large predator guild. After
only eight months of fieldwork
and detailed examination
of past sightings data,
the number of identified
individuals within the study
area has almost doubled
to 349 individuals (and
counting!)
2012-2013: Research
assistants develop a photo
identification database to
document all sighted (ie:
photographed) hyaena in the
study area. A combination
of previous data and current
sightings amounted to 183
identified individuals, but this
was not a complete picture of
the study population.
Further research efforts
will examine the factors
influencing hyaena
encounters with other large
predator species in this
ecosystem. This research
is funded by the University
of Nottingham, National
Geographic Society
Conservation Trust, Cleveland
Metroparks Zoo/Cleveland
Zoological Society, Roger
Williams Park Zoo, Toronto
Zoo Endangered Species
Reserve Fund, IdeaWild and
Wilderness Wildlife Trust.
2014 - present: PhD
student Jessica Vitale begins
her study examining hyaena
social dynamics and the role
of hyaena within an intact
information about his movements outside his territory.
He has made three trips
along the river towards the
veterinary fence, each time
travelling 40km over 24 to 48
hours. Only time and further
observations will be able to
reveal the full meaning of
these ventures. Is he a dispersing male from the local clan,
which is why they tolerated
him at a carcass? Are large
carcasses driving his forays
south of the buffalo fence?
Is Snaggle exhibiting
behaviour normal for hyaena
in this ecosystem? Thus far,
sightings of uncollared individuals show that Snaggle’s
behaviour is not unusual, as
several hyaena have been seen
travelling far distances from
their typical territories. Clan
associations and movement
patterns of Okavango hyaena
appear to be quite complex,
and further study will help
us to understand more about
their behaviour.
Tourism
The jewel in the granite hills
BARRY KNIGHT
[email protected]
www.normajeaneslakeviewresort.com
A
lmost 100 years
ago, a soldier
returned from
the mud of
France with a Military Cross
packed away in his luggage,
gazed across the granite valley
in the middleveld where the
Mtilikwe, Mshagashe and
Popoteke rivers met and
thought what an ideal site this
would make for a great dam
to irrigate the vast, empty
lowveld of the country.
Murray MacDougall went
on to pioneer the transformation of that wilderness into
what was to become the thriving sugar estates of Triangle
and Hippo Valley, but his
dream of seeing the great dam
built was only realised after he
had retired in the 1950s.
Completed in 1961,
Lake Kyle, now known
by its modern name, Lake
Mutirikwi, can be seen from
the Great Zimbabwe Monument. When full, it holds over
1.3billion m3 of water, has a
maximum depth of 57m and a
surface area of 91km2.
Gary Hewitt-Long
o.uk
www.longbikeride.c
Please go to www.zambezitraveller.com where you can download
PDFs of the current and previous issues of the Zambezi Traveller.
unmolested by tourists (sorry,
Victoria Falls!) and home to
all the larger herbivore species,
bar elephant.
PHOTO: BARRY KNIGHT
The Zambezi Traveller welcomes letters.
Send to [email protected]
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The view of Lake Mutirikwi from Norma Jeane’s Lake View Lodge
than Lake Windermere,
England’s largest lake.
It is currently Zimbabwe’s
biggest lake after Kariba.
Reaching back amongst
the hills and valleys, the
Lake is a horseshoe shape
with many gullies and
inlets to explore. Many
years ago large mouth bass
were introduced and today
Lake Mutirikwi has the
The dam wall itself is
an engineering structure to
behold - a 63m high wall of
concrete wedged into a granite
gorge - the same granite
that built Great Zimbabwe. Whilst considerably smaller
than Belgium, (the yardstick
people always seem to use), it
does have 240km of shoreline
and is seven times bigger
Editorial & Advertising
Frances Jackson
Victoria Falls, Kariba, Harare, Lower
Zambezi, Middle Zambezi (Zambia and
Zimbabwe), Livingstone, Lusaka and
Mozambique.
Tel: +263 (0) 712 208 370
Email: [email protected]
Design & Layout
Baynham Goredema
Tel: +27 72 600 5283
[email protected]
Advertising and editorial
Sheryl Christmas
[email protected] Tel: : 0772475500 / 0774186043
Kariba, Middle Zambezi and Harare
Kariba sales representative
Cherrith McAdam
Tel: 077 555 3571
Email: [email protected]
Editorial Submissions
Zambezi Traveller welcomes editorial
submissions but reserves the right
to publish. Email in Word format to
[email protected]
Printing
Directory Publishers Print Media
[email protected], www.dp.co.zw
+263 9 78831
Even if you’re not a fisherman, the Lake has a lot to
offer. Kyle National Park lies
on the north shore – 16,000ha
of almost pristine granite
and msasa woodland, as yet
Norma Jeane’s Lake View
Resort, overlooking the Lake,
is built around and incorporates Murray MacDougall’s
homestead, where he lived in
his retirement looking over
the lake he had dreamt of
many years before.
w w w. n o r m a j e a n e s l a k e v i e w r e s o r t . c o m
Ten minutes away from the
Great Zimbabwe Monument
Hotel rooms + Self catering lodges (fully furnished and equipped)
+ Campsite (hot & cold running water guaranteed ! ) + Dining
room offering home cooked meals + wi-fi.
P O Box 196, Masvingo, Zimbabwe
20 ° 15’ 00” S ; 31 ° 00’ 10” E
Enquiries to: [email protected]
tel: +263-39-264879 / +263-712-408116 / +263-712-889887
The traveller’s friend, a definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi. Distributed world wide to travel agents, industry shows, hotels, lodges and key public areas
throughout the region, including capital cities. Expose your destination, activities, businesses to an international market through Zambezi Traveller.
Accounts, Advertising &
Subscriptions
Teddy Brightman
Victoria Falls, Chobe, Caprivi and
Windhoek
Harare, Kariba and Lower Zambezi
Tel: +263 (0) 782 795 403
[email protected]
reputation of being Zimbabwe’s prime bass fishing dam.
The bass aren’t plentiful but
tend to be monsters if you’re
lucky enough to entice one on
to your lure.
Zimbabwe’s forgotten
jewel, Lake Mutirikwi is
surprisingly easy to get to,
only 30km from Masvingo
on a good tar road. Being so
close to the Great Zimbabwe
Monument, it is the ideal
place to carry on to once
you’ve finished exploring the
ancient stone megalith. It also
makes an ideal first night’s
stop for South African visitors
travelling from Beitbridge.
Publisher: The Zambezi Traveller,
P.O. Box 183, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
DISCLAIMER:
All
information
and points of view are those of
the people who submitted them,
and do not necessarily reflect the
opinions of the Editors or publishers.
Whilst every effort has been made
to ascertain the validity of the
information submitted, Zambezi
Traveller cannot be held responsible
for any inaccuracies. Zambezi
Traveller does not accept any
liability for any advertising copy/
content not received correctly.
Zambezi Traveller reserves the right
to refuse advertising material that
does not meet its specifications or
advertising standards.
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38
BACK PAGE
DEC JAN FEB 2014/15
Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend
HEALTH
Trending in healthy safaris
Yoga in the Matopos Hills, Zimbabwe
LUKE BROWN
[email protected] www.vayeni.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.
com/vayenitravel?fref=ts
C
hoosing a safari
itinerary where
you can keep in
shape is becoming increasingly popular
among discerning travellers
who don’t want to arrive back
home carrying excess baggage.
At least that’s what our clients
are constantly telling us.
The Traditional Safari
The traditional safari has
always placed a strong emphasis on ensuring that guests
never go hungry. There is food
literally all day long. Sunrise
muffins and rusks, mid-morning English breakfast, a lunch
More and more people are
speaking out and those camps
and lodges that are savvy
enough are responding positively. We’ve decided to delve
into the key specifics of what
the modern safari traveller
wants and then find out how
the accommodation providers
in our wild areas are reacting
to this wave of ‘well-being
demands’.
People want less starch and less sugar
On top of this some safari
lodges and camps have come
up with novel ways and activities that allow their guests to
stay fit yet still remain safe
whilst on safari. Al fresco
bush gyms are starting to
catch on, yoga retreats are on
offer, swimming pools with
lap lanes and activities like
running, mountain biking
and horse riding trails are
designed safely and in big
Whilst it’s considered
a treat to indulge when on
holiday, the majority of safari
travellers nowadays don’t want
their diets drastically changed
for the few weeks they are
away from home. So when
they make a booking with us
they typically raise a few flags
that give us a good indication
as to what they want. Apart
from the regular allergies
that we are informed about
we are seeing more and more
requests from people who
don’t have an allergy and have
made a lifestyle choice that
involves avoiding gluten and
lactose.
As well as taking care of
their diet, travellers also want
to maintain their level of
fitness. Normally the only way
to get any exercise on safari is
to ensure you get up for the
morning walk.
How are the clever safari camps and
lodges responding?
Whilst the traditional
safari described above is still
quite prevalent, more and
more safari properties are
realising that there is a strong
Taking up the challenge:Part 2
[email protected]
www.quest-africa.com
I
n Zambezi Traveller
Issue 18 we introduced readers to two
school leavers, Christina Clements from New
Zealand and Bradley Ross
from Zimbabwe, who had
joined the Quest Spring
Programme. At the time
of going to print they will
have almost finished their
adventure; we catch up with
them here for an update.
ZT: What were the highlights of the
course for you?
Clements: Our week
at the Far Vic Gold Mine
and Sentinel Ranch was my
favourite, among our trips
to the Matopos, abseiling
through an insane waterfall and our weekend at
Mchabezi Dam. I’m really
looking forward to our
week at Vic Falls though.
Ross: For me our trip to
Sentinel Limpopo Conservancy was by far the best. I
enjoyed the memories we
made like playing rugby in
Bradley Ross just loves being in the
bush and learning about Zimbabwe’s
fauna and flora
the Limpopo River or seeing
the dinosaur fossils. Our
survival week followed closely
behind. We really bonded as a
group with a couple of laughs
here and there.
ZT: Has Quest Africa prepared you for the
future?
Clements: It’s taught me
a lot about the importance of
mind-set and the limits you
set for yourself. The junior
facilitators really pushed us
and gave us a whole new
confidence for what we could
really accomplish. I’m so glad
I’ve had the chance to experience this.
Leaving school? Not sure what to study
at university or which career path to take?
Considering a gap year?
Quest Africa is an African Gap year programme designed for young, adventurous people who are looking to become truly independent,
make a difference and to discover their passions and purpose in life. Quest exposes young adults to a broad spectrum of African
environments, cultures and experiences, adding international learning, work and community project experience to a Curriculum Vitae. This
along with a wide range of technical and life-skills, gives each Quest participant a real edge over their peers in a competitive world of work
and study.
NATURAL ACUMEN
DATES
January – September 2015
To Be Confirmed 2015
Coming Soon!!
Contact us
Contact us
BUSINESS ACUMEN
When one starts to think
about it, there are so many
ways that a safari can be
made healthier and whilst
some camps have invested
huge capital to do so, there
are many ways to go about it
that don’t require a big money
injection.
EDUCATION
for more information visit www.quest-africa.com or email [email protected]
QUEST PROGRAMMES
Men's Core Programme 2015
Spring Programme (Co-ed) 2015
Ladies' Core Programme
Corporate and Short Courses
School Programmes
game areas are escorted by a
guide trained and fit enough
in all aspects.
ZT CORRESPONDENT
People want to exercise
EXPLORE LIFE
competitive edge if increasing health needs are properly
catered for. Lighter meals,
gluten and lactose free foods,
better designed menus, buffets
with a wide range of organic
foods, freshly squeezed fruit
juices, smoothies... You name
it, chefs with a bit of savoirfaire are wising up to their
guests’ needs and whipping
out some incredibly healthy,
gourmet style meals in the
bush.
SOURCE: QUEST AFRICA
SOURCE: BIG CAVE CAMP
fit for a king, afternoon tea
with rich cakes and pastries
and a three course evening
dinner. Not forgetting to
mention the delicious array of
snacks that come out during
activities.
Quest Africa
Mixed Spring
Programme
Sep - Dec
TECHNICAL ACUMEN
Quest Africa
Mens Core
Programme
Jan - Sep
PHYSICAL ACUMEN
Quest Africa
Ladies’ Core
Programme
SOCIAL ACUMEN
Ross: Quest has changed
me in terms of self-confidence; without confidence
life is difficult to go through.
Mind-set, I found, has
become a strong quality that
Quest has given me which I
think no one else would have
been able to do for me. Both
qualities are key in life.
ZT: What was your favourite aspect of the
course?
Clements: The camaraderie. I’ve never been at boarding
school and my sisters are a lot
older than me so it was a new
experience being around kids
my age 24/7. You get so close
and get to know each other
on an entirely different level,
especially since you are all
thrown into real tough situations together.
Ross: My favourite aspect
of the course has been the
nature, mainly because the
bush is where I feel comfortable. I feel more at home here
than in the city. I think the
social aspect ties in with this
because I feel more relaxed
around people when I am in
the bush and don’t have to
worry about any stresses.