1. style and fashion
2. footwear

TAMARA’S TAKE
How hard is it to build a brand
from scratch? Ask Ms. Mellon
TRADE SECRETS
Top show execs reveal changes &
must-see attractions
FOOTWEAR NEWS | JANUARY 12, 2015 | VOLUME 71 | NO. 2
BOOT IT
The best of western couples fresh
and classic. Case in point: DAN POST’s
camo-print ankle boot and ARIAT’s
decorative stitched snip-toe.
CONTENTS
Business is booming
in resort areas such as
Beaver Creek, Colo.
3 What Clicked
Did you miss them? Check
out the most-read stories on
Footwearnews.com during the
past week.
5 Up Front
Tamara Mellon opens up
about the challenges and
opportunities that come with
launching a new brand.
7 FN Spy
Inès de la Fressange on her
pursuits in the new year, from
photography to shopping.
8 Top Stories
The hot stocks that market
watchers are tracking in 2015,
from Deckers and Skechers to
Brown Shoe Co.
Spring styles from
Tamara Mellon
Contact your sales representative today
to schedule an appointment
9 Top Stories
Let it snow. Shoe retailers near
ski resorts are reporting robust
sales as winter weather hits
much of the country.
9 Top Stories
BBC banks on its recent
FishFlops acquisition to
drive more opportunities
in 2015.
SPECIAL REPORT
12 Hot Circuit
The leaders of the biggest trade
shows have exciting plans for
their upcoming events.
15 Open Season
As the fall buying season gets
under way, FN has the details
on the must-attend domestic
and international shows.
PHOTOS: BEAVER CREEK: GETTY IMAGES; SANDALS: STEVE EICHNER; BULL RIDERS: NOAH SCIALOM; FASHION ACCESS: COURTESY OF SHOW
INSIDER
Ultra flexible performance
boots for navigating the
twists and bends in the
trail or in life!
Cowboys line up at the
Professional Bull Riders
event in Baltimore
FEATURES
17 Western Wrap-Up
Cowboy boots return to the
fashion front with a powerful
mix of raw textures and clever
detailing.
MARKETPLACE
24 Inspiration Point
Pony up. The line builder
behind Tony Lama looks to a
The Fashion Access
show in Hong Kong
variety of cool cowboy places
to help her keep the storied
Western brand hip.
25 Burning Question
The popularity of Western wear
comes and goes. Hear how five
brands try to keep the heat
going all the time.
26 No Bull
What happens when the
toughest sport on earth comes
to town? Western fashion goes
for a ride at the Professional
Bull Riders show in Baltimore.
28 Urban Frontier
Cowboys in the Big Apple? One
New York retailer has made a
business out of introducing the
East to the best the West has
to offer.
Above: RKW0129
Left: RKW0128 & RKW0130
The cleverly concealed
Expansion Fit Seam™ expands
to allow your heel to easily
slide in, then snaps back
for a comfortable
snug fit.
30 Good Taste
With a video series and custom
cowboy boots selling to the
tune of $40,000 a pair, Lisa
Sorrell is a one-woman show.
31 Buzz
What’s the latest for spring ’15?
Target has teamed with Lilly
Pulitzer, Android Homme is back,
a handbag line tackles footwear,
and BC meets ban.do.
FN PICK
32 Blue Notes
Robert Downey Jr. gets colorful
at the People’s Choice Awards.
View the Rocky Trail Bend collection
and other great Rocky styles at the
WESA Showroom #3535
Order today
or call
(800) 848-9452
rockyboots.com
Michael Atmore FN Editorial Director
Neil Weilheimer Executive Editor
Katie Abel Global News Director
Elizabeth Slott Design Director
Mosha Lundström Halbert Fashion Director
Jennie Bell Features Editor
Barbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s, Comfort
Kenneth Harney Art Director
Dana Karlson Web Editor
Kristen Henning Women’s Editor
Irene Park Copy Editor
Margaret Sutherlin Associate Editor
Christian Allaire Assistant Fashion Editor, High-End Men’s
Nikara Johns Editorial Assistant
Erin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’s
CORRESPONDENTS
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BUSINESS GROUP
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2|
| JANUARY 12, 2015
What Clicked on
Footwearnews.com
The hottest stories on our website
for the past week.
1. “Rachel Zoe on Shoes You Need to Own”
FN caught up with the superstar stylistturned-designer to find out what trends
she’s loving — and loathing — this season.
Zoe also gave some hints of what’s new in
her spring line.
2. “Insiders Sound Off on
Stuart Weitzman, Coach Deal”
While market watchers were generally
optimistic, some had questions about the
deal in the near future. Analysts told FN
that Coach might be taking on too much.
3. “Ski Season: Hot Boots to Hit the Slopes”
FN scoured the market for current styles
from labels like Tecnica, Sorel and
Koolaburra that make it easy to look chic
on the mountain this season — and also
avoid frostbite.
4. “Mario Cuomo, Kenneth Cole’s
Father-in-Law, Dies at 82”
The former New York governor was a
strong supporter of social causes, including
those closest to Cole. Cuomo told FN in
2011, “There’s a Jewish law that says the
world is imperfect, so try to make it better.”
5. “Shoe Stocks: 2014 Wrap-Up”
While the Dow Jones and NASDAQ ended
down on 2014’s last day of trading, the
year was much better for the market as a
whole. FN reviewed the winners and losers.
6. “Adidas StellaSport: First Footwear Looks”
Stella McCartney acted as the creative
director for her latest athletic collaboration,
targeted to a young, vibrant girl.
Open-mesh uppers and built-in sock liners
are key features.
For more digital content,
visit our new website at Footwearnews.com
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
|3
THE OUTDOOR RETAILER ISSUE
ISSUE DATE: 1/19/15
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FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ADVERTISING, CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, SALES DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, AT 212.630.4874, OR [email protected].
INSIDER
UP FRONT × NEWSMAKERS × ON DEADLINE
Tamara
Talks
PHOTO: STEVE EICHNER
A year in, Tamara Mellon opens up
about the unique challenges that come
with building a namesake brand.
BY KRISTEN HENNING
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
|5
INSIDER
UP FRONT × Tamara Mellon
We are not really targeting a demographic.
It’s an attitude.” — Tamara Mellon
Q&A
What is your outlook for 2015?
TM: We’ve only had product on the floor for a
full year. Launching with three categories was
certainly aggressive, and every startup has its
challenges and stumbles. But now, we’ve actually
[gotten past] the teething problems. The product
is the strongest it’s been so far.
What are some of the biggest contrasts
between your vision for your namesake line
and Jimmy Choo?
TM: I have a very different business model, and
that is the key. We are building a [collection]
around the modern consumer. She can find
something new every month that can suit her
6|
| JANUARY 12, 2015
lifestyle at that time of the year. Nobody thinks
four months ahead anymore. I know as a customer myself, I need to buy something
today and wear it tomorrow.
What are a few of the main obstacles you face?
TM: The focus of my business has its challenges
for the wholesale market. So I’m pushing more of
my business to e-commerce.
Who is your target consumer?
TM: She’s pretty much the same as she was at
Jimmy Choo. We are not really targeting a demographic. It’s an attitude. I have women who are
18 and women who are 75 [buying my product].
Any lessons learned from your past business?
TM: When I speak to students, I always say there
are three things to remember when they start
their own brand. One, they should have a magic
number: [Own at least] 51 percent. Two, have a
good financial controller, but don’t ever let the
accountants run your business. Three, don’t let
anybody tell you who you are.
What was the experience like starting your line
here versus in London, your home for many
years?
TM: It’s slightly different [in terms of] the manufacturing process, but we still work with the same
factories in Italy. It’s a longer flight. I go every season, and I have my production teams there now.
What is your retail strategy?
TM: We do much better online than in brick-and-
What are some of your main sources of
inspiration?
TM: When I was decorating my Hamptons house,
I used geometric prints from artists in the 1960s
and ’70s. For spring footwear, [that led] to a
mash-up of what we called tribal mixed with electronic festival. There was an exhibition at Pace
Gallery called “Mingei: Are You Here,” [which
sparked the idea].
What excites you most about the shoe industry?
TM: There is so much more choice than there
ever has been.What is interesting to me is the
business model and how everything is going
digital.
You’re active on social media. How is that
changing the game?
TM: You have direct access to your consumer
instead of going through a third party. Sometimes, I’ll put up a picture that I think is a great
inspiration photo — Helmut Newton in the
1970s is my obsession, everybody knows that.
The other day, I put up a video of my fireplace
in my bedroom on Instagram. It got double the
amount of likes than anything else. Maybe because it was inside my room and was something
very personal.
Who do you keep up with on Twitter?
TM: Loads of people. I follow Arianna Huffington,
and I like news tweets from Tina Brown.
Is category expansion on the horizon?
TM: Since we launched three [lines] at once, I’ll
stick with that. Once the core business has grown,
I have a vision for makeup, fragrance and for
lingerie. I’ve already created mood boards.
Spring ’15 shoes
PHOTOS: STEVE EICHNER
T
amara Mellon knows that launching a brand isn’t easy — and she’s
learned a lot in her first
year.
“Things don’t always
happen as quickly as you think they’re going to. It
definitely takes time,” said Mellon, who debuted
her collection of shoes, ready-to-wear and bags in
late 2013. “It really takes about a year for everyone to get aligned and understand the vision.”
The designer isn’t new to the game, of course.
She spent 15 years at Jimmy Choo, playing a leading role in elevating the label to star status.
After an acrimonious breakup with her
private-equity owners in 2011, Mellon wanted to
strike out on her own — and do things differently
than the rest of the fashion industry.
“The world has moved and changed since I
founded Jimmy Choo,” she said of her decision to
launch a buy-now, wear-now concept.
As she tweaks her wholesale distribution — the
line is stocked at Nordstrom, Net-a-Porter, Shopbop.com and Saks Fifth Avenue, among others —
Mellon focused on additional growth avenues for
2015, especially online.
An e-commerce site launched last year, and the
company plans to open two retail stores, either
pop-ups or permanent locations, in 2015. Mellon
also plans to host a series of shopping events,
including lunches in the showroom where guests
can purchase the product.
Here, Mellon talks candidly about obstacles,
revamping retail and why she’s determined to do
things her way.
mortar stores, and now we know what we’re up
against. Our biggest account is Net-a-Porter.
[This year], we will focus people there. We have
two stores rolling out in 2015. We will also [focus]
on omnichannel. My goal is to make the business
80 percent digital.
INSIDER
Top Stories × ON DEADLINE
Inès de la Fressange
tography’s blend of art and technology so closely
resembles the way we approach traditional
shoemaking techniques,” said Tim Cooper,
cobbler-in-chief. The result includes colorblocked leathers and grainy leather finishes,
done on boot and lace-up styles. Switching gears
from photography to movies, Cooper’s other
latest obsession includes the film ‘Chef.’ “I saw it
recently on a flight from California to London. It appealed to my love of home
cooking,” said Cooper. “But
what really made
it for me was the
soundtrack of
Oliver Sweeney Latin and Caribbean grooves.”
Inès’ 2015
Hit List
The Zoe Show
There’s never a dull moment for Inès de la Fressange.
As she celebrates the new year, the brand ambassador
for Roger Vivier opens up about travel plans and personal passions, from photography to shopping.
Most exciting thing happening to the brand
right now:
“Actually, every day something exciting is
happening in this company. We have had a lot
a success, and the opening of many new stores
worldwide is a reason to celebrate.”
SPY
Celebrity muse of the moment:
“I could give you a lot of names, like Cate Blanchett
or Lee Radziwill. Peronally, I am always happy when
I’m told that [songwriter] Marianne Faithfull comes
to Roger Vivier to buy a pair of shoes. You know, for a
house that made shoes for Queen Elizabeth II, Jackie
Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot, we
are sometimes just happy to transform anonymous
[women] into stars.”
Trip you are most looking forward to:
“We are going to open a store in Bangkok; of course, it’s
fun to go there. I also love to go to Provence, but there
it can’t be for business — it’s a place where you buy
espadrilles.”
Passion of the moment:
“Taking pictures. Nowadays it’s so easy to retouch them,
transform people and landscapes, skin or light. I could
do that all day. But I’m still a shopaholic. Yesterday, I
bought three pairs of Isabel Marant loafers, even if I work
in the temple of gorgeous shoes. Crazy.”
The awards circuit might be all fun for moviegoers, but it’s one of the busiest times of the
year for Rachel Zoe. “With the start of awards
season and February Fashion Week around the
corner, the beginning of the New Year is always
insane,” the designer and stylist told Spy.
She’s already hard at work finding the best
options for her A-list clients, who include
Jennifer Lawrence, Jennifer Garner and
Sofia Vergara.. When it’s time to pick that
all-important shoe to go with a
red-carpet look, Zoe said there’s
no secret formula besides being ready to play with endless
options. This season,
she’s all about a spin on
metallic. “My team and
I are loving rose gold
shoes — it’s a nice
alternative to gold, but
subtler and softer. It looks
best in a classic pump or
Rachel Zoe
simple sandal,” she said.
Photo Session
The art of photography is a passion for Oliver
Sweeney. For fall ’15, the men’s designer took a
cue from the trade. From equipment design to
film developing, the brand translated that inspiration into footwear via technical fabrics with
classic flourishes. “I was inspired by how pho-
Alberto Moretti had an unlikely customer in
mind for for his fall ’15 collection — notorious
outlaws Bonnie and Clyde. “Beside seeing Clyde
with printed bullets on silk and velvet, I imagined
him wearing sneakers with white fur and holographic leather,” said the designer. The collection
includes sneakers in both leather and velvet, with
mock bullet holes done in a gold metallic. When
asked which celebrity he
could see sporting the
Alberto
Moretti
line, Moretti suggested heartthrob
(and occasional action star) Ryan Gosling.
“He’s worn my velvet loafers
in the past,” he said.
SPOTTED:
Melissa McCarthy rocking a Dana
Davis look at the People’s Choice
Awards. The star topped off her
Awards
all-black ensemble with a black peep-toe
pair featuring cutout details.
“I want to pinch myself. I just love
her,” said Davis. “She is strong,
confident, and a funny woman
who wants to be sexy and
comfortable. She loves the
shoes so much that when she
got her hands and footprints
in cement in Hollywood,
Melissa
she took them off because
McCarthy
she didn’t want to get them
dirty.” Plus, the celeb got
some stage time: She nabbed
an award for “Favorite Comedic Movie Actress.”
By Kristen Henning, with contributions from Christian Allaire and Margaret Sutherlin
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
|7
PHOTOS: DE LA FRESSANGE: COURTESY OF BENOIT PEVERELLI; MCCARTHY: GETTY IMAGES; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
Cool Convicts
INSIDER
ON DEADLINE × Top Stories
Athletic Upswing Key for Shoe Stocks
several seasons in part due to an
over-reliance on Nike Free, newer
brands such as Hoka One One and
Under Armour have grabbed analyst and consumer attention.
Mitch Kummetz at Robert Baird
& Co. said he will focus most on
Under Armour Inc. in the coming
year. He expects much stronger
performance from the company’s footwear category. “Under
Armour’s footwear business is
still gaining momentum,” said
Kummetz. “It’s still a small part
of the company, but it’s a big part
of its story in terms of long-term
growth.”
Deckers Brands, a consistent
leader in athleisure, remains a key
stock for 2015. And Teva’s unique
interpretation of the footbed sandal again looks promising in the
new year, along with growing buzz
for Hoka One One.
Deckers’ growing Ugg assortment, including the debut of
the lower-cost Ugg Free, plus a
NEW YORK — It’s been a long five
years since the U.S. officially came
out of the recession.
As anemic as the recovery has
felt at times, market watchers are
viewing 2015 with some optimism
thanks to lower gas prices, a better consumer outlook and slowly
strengthening housing and job
markets.
“Footwear could get an incremental boost, contrary to the midcycle scenario, because oil price
declines will benefit the lower-end
consumer the most,” said analyst
Camilo Lyon at Cannacord Genuity. “[Footwear] can stand to benefit because the disposable income
is enough to make one more small
purchase; it’s not that you can buy
a new iPhone, but you can buy
shoes or a dinner out.”
Still, the industry is under pressure from the ongoing dispute
at West Coast ports, currency
fluctuations abroad and
the fact that the U.S. is
Meb Keflezighi helped
in a mid-cycle recovery,
Skechers shares sprint
which favors big-ticket
last year
items. Oil price declines
have been the buzz for
many people watching
the stock market in the
past several months, but
analysts say that’s only
part of the story in 2015.
Every analyst Footwear News interviewed
said the biggest focus for
shoe companies — from
retailers to brands — is
the growing influence of
athleisure in each aspect
of the consumer’s life.
In the strictly athletic segment, insiders
are bullish on basketball and new running
brands. As the overall
running market has
refocused on casual
styles rather than performance in the past
8|
| JANUARY 12, 2015
stronger focus on technology for
the brand both online and instore, have translated into solid
revenue.
“Deckers is one of my top picks
because they’re focusing on
omnichannel, diversifying to be
less Ugg-dependent and doing a
ton of testing on the assortment.
They really capture what consumers are looking for and what
they want,” said Danielle McCoy
of Wunderlich Securities.
As yoga pants and leisure wear
continue to drive apparel sales,
analysts named Skechers as another probable market mover in
2015, with the right mix of styles,
targeted marketing and value for
the consumer.
While athleisure has set companies like Nike Inc., Deckers,
Skechers USA Inc. and Under
Armour up for success, women’s
brands are still waiting for 2015’s
“a-ha” trend. And experts don’t
think they’re going to get it.
The lack of “newness” for women’s has
impacted some important stocks, including
Steve Madden and
DSW Inc.
Analysts were split
on how 2015 will play
out for the companies.
“There hasn’t been
a real fashion trend for
Madden,” said analyst
Jeff Van Sinderen
at B. Riley and Co.
But other market
watchers were confident that management is making the
right moves to get back
on track. Last year,
Madden bought Brian
Atwood and Dolce
Vita, and the company
recently acquired its
Mexican arm.
Likewise, Columbus,
Ohio-based DSW Inc.
has started to gain
Market Movers
Analysts pick stocks to watch
in 2015.
Probable Hits
BWS — Brown Shoe Co.
“They have two primary investment
pieces. One is Famous Footwear and its
ability to drive incremental traffic,
and there is momentum on the
wholesale side.” — Steve Marotta
SKX — Skechers USA Inc.
“The company is diversified, and in terms
of brand and product, it resonates
with the consumer. Some people might
argue that they sort of invented active/
athleisure.” — Jeff Van Sinderen
Gaining Steam
CROX — Crocs Inc.
“Crocs isn’t a supernova, but it’s welldiversified geographically and by product
category. This is a company that is
‘turnaround-able.’” — Steve Marotta
DSW — DSW Inc.
“DSW is going to benefit from consumers
who are a bit more price-conscious.
We saw some stability toward the end of
the year, and I’d love to see that
continue.” — Camilo Lyon
momentum after its women’s
business put up positive comparative-sales figures.
Meanwhile, the growing
strength of the dollar abroad
might have positives, as brands
like Ugg, Crocs and Steve Madden
seek to expand globally, analysts
are watching how currency changes are going to impact earnings.
The recent dips in the Russian
ruble have hit Adidas Inc., and the
dollar’s nine-year high against the
euro can be a burden on growing
brands.
“We’ve seen some stabilization
in Europe, but the biggest headwinds facing the companies we
follow with European exposure is
the strengthening of the dollar. It’s
something we have to take a closer
look at,” said Wunderlich Securities’ McCoy.
PHOTO: COURTESY OF SKECHERS
BY MARGARET SUTHERLIN
INSIDER
Top Stories × ON DEADLINE
Snow Lifts Sales for Ski Resort Retailers
BY NIKARA JOHNS
NEW YORK — Many ski resorts
across the country were blanketed
with fresh snow last week — and the
winter weather is boosting sales.
“We had a good snow leading into
Christmas, so that was obviously
helpful,” said Lori Harris, owner of
Mary Jane’s in Park City, Utah, which
has received 40 inches of snow in the
past two weeks.
She noted that Ugg, Pajar, Frye and
other waterproof styles are among
the retailer’s top sellers.
Harris added that store-traffic
trends typically correspond directly
with weather patterns.
“On a snowy day, we have better
business then on a sunny day because
in a ski town, you’ve got a lot of
tourists, and they’re waiting for that
bluebird day,” said Harris.
“When it’s dumping snow outside,
people are typically shopping because
they think the next day is going to be
beautiful and sunny. So a lot of time,
that’s where we get our bigger business days.”
Moving into the rest of the month,
Skiers in
Beaver Creek, Colo.
Harris is looking for a boost from the
Sundance Film Festival, which brings
nearly 50,000 people to a town that
has about 8,000 full-time residents.
“Sundance is probably our 10 busiest days of the year,” she said.
In Telluride, Colo., Sutton Errico,
manager of Two Skirts Boutique, said
her fortunes are also tied to the snow.
“It’s a love/hate relationship. When
it’s cold and a blizzard, people avoid
skiing. We have some of our best days
when there’s a storm,” said Errico,
adding that Aquatalia is the shop’s
hottest brand. “It’s nice to sell an
updated, stylish snow boot that goes
from après ski to dinner later that
night,” she said.
Errico is confident that sales will be
steady through the rest of the winter.
“February is another really big
month,” Errico said. “Then March
comes, and you have families heading
to the mountains for spring break,
and it will be busy again.”
Bloomingbirds owner Patti Patterson said Pajar and Aquatalia continue
to be top-selling brands at her Aspen,
Colo., store, along with Sorel and
Le Canadienne.
Patterson said footwear is performing better than last year around this
time because the economy is stronger, temperatures have been colder
and heavy snow is keeping people off
the slopes.
Dwane Stover, footwear buyer at
Axel’s in Vail, Colo., said the store
is having a strong ski season so far.
“We’re up 20 percent on footwear
sales from last year,” he said.
For the high-end boutique, a
unique brand mix is a big selling
point: Axel’s stocks Stallion cowboy
boots and Italian brands for women,
including Alberto Fasciani. Stover
said his top sellers by far are men’s
British labels such as Edward Green
and John Lobb.
Not all resort retailers are doing
well, however. On the East Coast,
Basin Sports in Killington, Vt., is
doing well with ski merchandise, but
shoes have been a weak spot. “Every
year, we cut our styles and contemplate not carrying footwear at all. We
don’t have enough room to carry a
ton of styles, and we usually end up
selling 40 percent of it at half off,” said
President Christine Torrey.
BBC Turns to Teen for Next Big Brand Idea
NEW YORK — Teenaged entrepreneur Madison Robinson’s fledgling
FishFlops just made a big catch.
The company, founded in 2010,
when Robinson was just 12 years old,
has inked a partnership with industry powerhouse BBC International.
Under the deal, BBC has taken a
50 percent stake in the business,
known for its colorful flip-flops
featuring marine-life motifs.
The Boca Raton, Fla.-based company will partner with Robinson and
her father and business partner,
Dan Robinson, on the development
of three labels: the existing FishFlops
collection; a new, higher-priced
FishFlops by Madison Nicole line;
and the fashion-focused Madison
Nicole (currently available at retail
as tween apparel). The Robinsons
will collaborate on the design and
marketing of the collections, while
BBC will manage sourcing, production and sales.
Bob Campbell, BBC’s chairman and
CEO, said he has followed FishFlops’
growth over the past few years and is
bullish about the potential.
“When I met the Robinsons, I just
fell in love with the whole thing. I’m
so impressed with Madison and what
she has achieved with this company
at such a young age,” he said. “She
succeeded in selling her shoes into
Nordstrom [in 2012], which is an
incredible feat for a newcomer. We
have big plans for helping her take her
business to the next level.”
Robinson, now 16 and a high school
junior in Cypress, Texas, said she is
excited to work with Campbell and
his team. “BBC has a
young, fashion-minded
focus, which [matches up
well] with my vision. The
experience BBC offers
was a major part of my
decision to team with
them.”
For fall ’15, BBC will
showcase an expanded
assortment under the
core FishFlops brand,
including canvas sneakers and cozy boots. The
line already offers a range
of flip-flops, sandals and
wedges for kids and adults, as well as
novelty T-shirts. The new FishFlops
by Madison Nicole collection will
launch in spring ’16, along with a shoe
line under the Madison Nicole label.
Campbell said he envisions build-
ing Madison Nicole into
a full-fledged lifestyle
offering aimed at tweens,
teens and adults. “We
want to develop Madison
Nicole into a true fashion
brand across footwear,
apparel and accessories,
Madison
And we want to take it
Robinson
global. But we’re also
taking it slow and trying to be careful about
building it the right way,”
Campbell said, noting
that the firm will license
out non-shoe categories.
Robinson said she sees Madison
Nicole as a chance to offer more
mature, contemporary looks. “I have
opportunities to get feedback from
my friends — they’re always honest
with their opinions.”
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
PHOTOS: BEAVER CREEK: GETTY IMAGES; MADISON ROBINSON: COURTESY OF FISH FLOPS
BY ERIN E. CLACK
|9
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In a special section, top trade show
players sound off on new features this
season as well as the challenges and
opportunities facing the industry.
PHOTO: COURTESY OF FN PLATFORM
FOR MORE, SEE PAGE 12
Inside FN Platform
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 11
PLANNER
Hot Circuit
Organizers from the biggest footwear shows open up about new
features, hot categories and their outlooks for the year. BY ERIN E. CLACK
I
n an increasingly competitive business,
footwear trade shows are working harder
than ever to create must-attend events.
From offering specially curated product
showcases to savvy new digital tools, organizers are focused on delivering more value
and helping buyers make the most of their
show experience.
Some are also angling to expand their reach
by tapping into new categories and cultivating
additional international audiences.
Here, leaders from six of the largest domestic and international events share what’s
coming up for their shows and sound off on the
outlook for the year ahead.
Leslie Gallin
12 |
| JANUARY 12, 2015
LESLIE GALLIN, president of footwear,
UBM Advanstar
New this season: “FN Platform will celebrate
its fifth anniversary this year. [To mark that
milestone], we’ve done a full remodel of all the
themed lounges on the show floor [for February]. We think it will add an additional level
of excitement. The day before the show starts,
we’ll do a philanthropic effort on-site with
Soles4Souls and the Big Brothers Big Sisters of
Southern Nevada. Taylor Dayne will perform
at our opening-night party, and there will be a
special event on the second night to celebrate
Two Ten [Footwear Foundation]’s 75th anniversary.”
Kirstin Deutelmoser
Five new brands to see: Gravati; CR7 Cristiano
Ronaldo; Bachelor Shoes; Joaquim Ferrer;
Andrew Kayla
Hottest category: “We’re seeing well-balanced
growth across all categories. However, with
the launch [this season] of Playground, Magic’s
new children’s apparel show, we expect a lot
more action in the kids’ segment. The creation
of Playground stemmed from the great success
we’ve had with children’s footwear at FN Platform. We’ve been bringing buyers to Las Vegas,
and now Magic is definitely a must-attend
show for retailers because we’re rounding out
the purchase with apparel.”
New digital push: “You’ll see some big changes
to the look and feel of Shopthefloor.com,
[Magic’s online wholesale marketplace]. Every
show cycle, we see solid growth of the platform,
and we continue to fine-tune it. [On the social
media front], we’re working with Marie Claire
on a channel takeover. We’re all about helping
[show attendees] make better connections with
consumers so they can sell shoes.”
Biggest challenges: “The cry I consistently
hear is that there is a lack of breakout
[fashion] trends right now. There’s nothing
big that people can get behind. [Rising prices]
in China also continue to be a concern [on the
manufacturing side]. I think it’s going to force
people to look again at producing in the U.S.
Cleto Sagripanti
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF COMPANIES
TRADE SHOW
Marisa Nicholson
and other countries, like Spain.”
2015 outlook: “People seem cautiously optimistic. They’re seeing some stability in the
economy — the stock market is up, interest
rates are lower and gas prices have come down
— and now they’re waiting to see how that pans
out for them personally. With the health of
our economy, we’re seeing more interest from
international [exhibitors] in coming to FN
Platform. They see the U.S. as a new growth
frontier.”
RON FROMM, president and CEO, FFANY
New this season: “Coming off our December
show, which was one of our best in years by
all indicators, there is a lot of momentum. We
have eight new brands exhibiting next month.
The show continues to grow, so one of the challenges we face is finding more exhibition space
to accommodate everyone. We have a new
board of directors coming on in February, and
they will be working on a number of strategic
initiatives for [rollout at] our June show. You’ll
see more retail engagement, as well as some
new offerings under the FFANY365 digital
platform.”
Five new brands to see: Kate Bosworth; Sarah
Flint; Adrianna Papell; Lemon Jelly; Studio B
by Blondo
Hottest category: “We continue to see a lot of
activity in that contemporary comfort category. These are not the same old comfort shoes of
the past. They’re fresh and modern, and that’s
driving some real excitement.”
New opportunities: “International [representation] at FFANY continues to grow. We had a
Mexican pavilion at the December show, and
we’re doing some work with Turkish suppliers. We’ve also had sessions with the French
Ron Fromm
and Italian luxury groups. We’re very focused
on helping our members tap into new overseas markets, and we have great interest from
international brands in distributing here in
the U.S. We’ve also had an increase in inquiries
from kids’ brands — it’s a category with a lot of
momentum right now. So one of the things our
board is going to explore is whether FFANY
has the right platform to be a support vehicle
for the children’s category.”
2015 outlook: “Overall, people seem upbeat,
[particularly because] we have a better economic outlook. There is a strong sense of fashion direction and movement, and that’s always
good for business. Heading into the new year, a
lot of conversation seems to be focused on the
emergence of omnichannel. That’s the puzzle
everybody is trying to figure out. It’s clear it
presents a huge opportunity, but it’s a big challenge at the same time, as no one has managed
to figure out the magic formula yet.”
MARISA NICHOLSON, VP, group show director,
Outdoor Retailer
New this season: “One of the new things we
launched at Summer Market is the Venture
Out area. It was a huge success, so we’re now
bringing it to Winter Market. It’s a curated
space for like-minded brands that want a
separate area to highlight their more lifestyledriven footwear looks — product that doesn’t
match up with the performance styles they’re
showcasing in their main booth. It’s great for
retailers looking to connect with that younger
audience and those consumers interested in
outdoor product but wanting a little more fashion. We’re also introducing a new attendee orientation, which will give us an opportunity to
not only meet and start to build relationships
Laura Conwell-O’Brien
with new attendees but also provide them with
a general overview of the show and everything
going on.”
Five new brands to see: Auclair & Martineau;
Hybrid Green Label; Astral; Ridgemont Outfitters; MyMayu
Hottest category: “Running is one of the
fastest-growing categories. Trail running, in
particular, has picked up momentum over
the last few years, with trends from minimalist shoes, such as Vibram, to foam soles from
brands like Hoka One One. We have a good representation of both long-time exhibitors and
newcomers. Asics has returned to the show, as
has Montrail to showcase its trail shoes. Nike
Trail plans to return for Summer Market.”
New digital strategies: “We’re in the process
of developing a new social media strategy. We
have amazing support on the show floor to help
us generate social media exposure for all the
events and other things happening at OR.
But we’re looking to take the next step in engaging directly with our attendees. We’ve also
added a new location finder within our mobile
app. Knowing how difficult our show floor is
to navigate, this tool gives you [customized]
walking maps to guide you from one booth
to another.”
Biggest challenge: “In outdoor, we need to
work harder at engaging the youth demographic — that 18-to-25-year-old consumer.
That’s one of the big driving forces behind the
new Venture Out area and highlighting more of
the lifestyle product. As we move forward, we
will continue to work on helping retailers and
brands understand best how to attract and connect with that younger audience.”
2015 outlook: “People seem to be feeling good
about business this year. The conversations
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 13
I’ve had with both retailers and exhibitors have
all been very positive.”
KIRSTIN DEUTELMOSER, director, GDS
New this season: “At our February edition,
we will debut our Design Trendsetter project.
Twenty designers will present [their collections] in connection with the premium Studio
world. The designers were selected by an international jury that included Ernesto Esposito
and Veronique Branquinho. We believe this
[showcase] will be a unique source of ideas and
inspiration for retailers. Also new is the overarching theme of the Highlight Route, [which
runs through all three worlds of the show and
features product showcases, trend installations and runway shows]. In July, we launched
the theme ‘Urban Cycling’ and put it into both
fashion and social contexts. [This season’s]
theme is ‘Food is the new fashion.’”
Five new brands to see: Ludwig Reiter; Cushiz;
GX by Gwen Stefani; P448; Gordon & Bros.
Hottest category: “There isn’t one particular
category I would [single out]. There’s a lot happening in all the categories at GDS. The Design
Trendsetter project should bring much attention to the premium women’s segment.”
New digital strategies: “To more actively
engage in social media channels, GDS now
offers several special features for fashion bloggers, including the Fashion Blogger Café and
the Blogger Runway Show. We are well aware
that bloggers are always well-connected and
up-to-date and that they enable companies,
through sponsoring or cooperation, to reach a
fashion-focused target audience with significant purchasing power.”
Competitive edge: “The [footwear industry]
can be very hard to satisfy. As organizers of a
leading trade fair, we have to identify and respond to changes in the market at a very early
stage. It is crucial that we reinvent ourselves
over and over again — to never stagnate and always be one step ahead. At GDS, we turned the
big wheel by bringing our show dates forward,
and now other shows [are doing the same].
The main [mission] of a trade fair is to have
a visionary view and to consistently adjust to
the industry’s expectations. GDS has done this
since the beginning.”
Biggest challenges: “The business is facing
many great challenges. The manufacturing in-
14 |
| JANUARY 12, 2015
It’s crucial to reinvent ourselves over and over
again — to never stagnate and always be one
step ahead.” — Kirstin Deutelmoser, GDS
dustry is largely dominated by Asian factories,
but it has become clear that China is exposed
to increasing price and cost [issues]. The
Russian [economic] crisis also is weakening
the market. Another concern is that access to
leather is becoming more difficult. The scarcity
of animal skins is impacting prices.”
CLETO SAGRIPANTI, president, The Micam
New this season: “Developments for our
upcoming edition include [a series of ] fashion
shows, organized in collaboration with WGSN
and the Rosemary Ferrari agency, to be held in
the MicamSquare during the first three days of
the show. Men’s, women’s and children’s shoes
from exhibiting companies selected by WGSN
will be featured [across the six different] lifestyles within The Micam’s pavilions: Active,
Contemporary, Cosmopolitan, Luxury, Street
and Urban.”
New brands to see: Ruco Line; Stephane Kélian
Hottest category: “The contemporary sector is having great success among visitors, as
it is a lifestyle that offers medium-high range
products that are very focused on fashion and
design. Contemporary represents a vast range
of products that are well-suited for any occasion and dedicated to [consumers] who are attentive to fashion and seek out a certain image
and quality. The cornerstone of The Micam,
however, continues to be the Luxury sector.”
Biggest challenge: “The main challenge for
the entire industry in 2015 will be limiting
the negative effects that the delicate political
situation in Ukraine and the devaluation of the
ruble are having on sales of shoes, particularly
those made in Italy. The search for emerging
markets may in fact provide new momentum
for footwear manufacturers, which have always
flourished thanks to exports.”
2015 outlook: “With regard to Italian-made
footwear, we foresee good opportunities in
emerging markets due to the growth of the
medium-high and high-range product segments. The U.S. will consolidate its role as a
major export destination, which will contribute to making Italian manufacturers stronger
in international markets. Despite this, the EU
— especially Italy — may still see decreased
performance due to austerity measures.”
LAURA CONWELL-O’BRIEN, executive director,
The Atlanta Shoe Market
New this season: “The Atlanta Shoe Market
has been sold out in every category for the last
five years. We continue to add exhibit space
and have had to be very creative in finding it.
The convention center is located on the top
level of a shopping mall, and over the past few
years we have [utilized] the empty stores as
additional space. In February, we will add an
additional 5,600-sq.-ft. store. Nine West Group
has leased it and will feature all of its brands
there.”
Five new brands to see: Hunter; Rebecca
Minkoff; Feiyue; Lotus Since 1759; David
Tutera
Hottest category: “The comfort market shows
no sign of slowing down. It’s responsible for
half the square footage at [our show]. Another
category seeing strong growth is men’s work
boots.”
Competitive edge: “We feel we have a niche
market. At The Atlanta Shoe Market, [you can
see] more than 1,800 brands under one roof.
The ease of working the show is key for everyone. We keep hotel rates at a minimum for
retailers to attend, the airport is easy to fly in
and out of, and the show is very cost-effective
overall. Once a retailer or wholesaler attends,
they always come back. We continue to see
growth each season.”
Biggest challenge: “The toughest challenge
for everyone is [navigating an increasingly]
Internet-based business. Since we don’t have a
crystal ball and can’t predict the future of the
industry, we have to continually find new ways
to reinvent how we do business.”
2015 outlook: “The mood is very cautious.
Most retailers tell us their business has been
picking up over the last few months and that
they are feeling positive going into the new
season. They continue to buy so they have new
product in their stores at all times.”
Project New York
JAN. 19-21
Javits Convention Center, New York
Project Sole New York
JAN. 19-21
Javits Convention Center, New York
Focused on men’s footwear, Project Sole
New York will hold its largest show to date this
month. Brands joining the exhibitor roster
this season include Weber Schuh and
Sanders & Sanders.
MosShoes
GDS
Open Season
Footwear News offers a roundup of trade shows for the first half of 2015.
BY ERIN E. CLACK
A
s the fall ’15 buying season kicks off,
trade show organizers are busy
rolling out new features and adding
more compelling content. Some are
debuting special designer showcases, while
others are pumping up their seminar and
event lineups. Here, Footwear News presents
a guide to the shows, both domestic and
international, that are slated for the first six
months of the year.
Northwest Shoe Travelers
JAN. 12-13 California Market Center,
Los Angeles
JAN. 16-18; MARCH 4-6 Mystic Lake Casino
Hotel, Prior Lake, Minn.
Transit
Boston Shoe Travelers
Association
ExpoRivaSchuh
JAN. 12-14; MARCH 16-18; JUNE 8-10
California Market Center, Los Angeles
Running in conjunction with LA Fashion Market,
Transit presents five editions annually.
Brands slated to exhibit at this month’s show
include BCBG, Jeffrey Campbell, Frye, Dolce Vita
and Rebels.
JAN. 10-13; JUNE 13-16 Riva del Garda
Exhibition Center, Riva del Garda, Italy
Pitti Uomo
Children’s Club
JAN. 13-16; JUNE 16-19 Fortezza da Basso,
Florence, Italy
JAN. 11-13 Pier 94, New York
MARCH 1-3 Javits Convention Center,
New York
Couromoda
JAN. 11-14 Expo Center Norte, São Paulo
PHOTO: COURTESY OF GDS
KSA Los Angeles Kids’ Show
The Metropolitan New York
Footwear, Apparel &
Accessories Marketplace
JAN. 12-13; MARCH 23-24; JUNE 15-16
New Jersey Exposition and Convention
Center, Edison, N.J.
Chicago Shoe Market
JAN. 14-15; MARCH 10-11 Renaissance
Schaumburg Convention Center Hotel,
Schaumburg, Ill.
The Materials Show
JAN. 14-15 California Market Center,
Los Angeles
MARCH 3-4 DoubleTree Hotel,
Danvers, Mass.
MARCH 10-11 Oregon Convention Center,
Portland, Ore.
JAN. 18-19 Holiday Inn, Boxborough, Mass.
FEB. 22-24 Radisson Hotel, Manchester, N.H.
Capsule
JAN. 19-20 (MEN’S) Basketball City,
New York
FEB. 22-24 (WOMEN’S) Pier 94, New York
JAN. 23-25 (MEN’S) Cité de la Mode, Paris
MARCH 6-8 (WOMEN’S) Tapis Rouge, Paris
FEB. 16-18 The Venetian, Las Vegas
Capsule will stage five editions this season in
New York, Paris and Las Vegas. The upcoming
New York men’s show will feature a number
of new footwear exhibitors, including National
Standard, Caterina Belluardo and ETQ
Amsterdam.
Agenda
JAN. 19-20
Javits Convention Center, New York
FEB. 16-18
Sands Expo Center, Las Vegas
JAN. 19-22; MARCH 10-13
Crocus Expo, Moscow
Shot Show
JAN. 20-23 Sands Expo Center, Las Vegas
Outdoor Retailer
JAN. 21-24 Salt Palace Convention Center,
Salt Lake City
OR’s upcoming Winter Market will feature
more than 180 footwear brands. After a successful debut in August, the Made in America
product showcase, staged in partnership with
the Outdoor Industry Association, will return,
along with an educational forum on domestic
manufacturing trends and challenges.
Other seminars scheduled include “Youth
Engagement as a Marketing Strategy,” “Trends
in Digital Commerce and the Future of Shopping Outdoors,” and “The Rise of Today’s
Demanding Flex Shopper.”
Pitti Bimbo
JAN. 22-24; JUNE 25-27 Fortezza da Basso,
Florence, Italy
Tranoï
JAN. 22-24 (MEN’S) Palais de la Bourse,
Paris
FEB. 21-23 The Tunnel, New York
MARCH 6-9 (WOMEN’S) Palais de la Bourse,
Carrousel du Louvre & Montaigne, Paris
Who’s Next
JAN. 23-26 Porte de Versailles, Paris
Première Classe
JAN. 23-26 Porte de Versailles, Paris
MARCH 6-9 Jardin des Tuileries, Paris
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 15
DoubleTree Suites, Lexington, Ky.
FEB. 1-3 Chennai Trade Centre,
Chennai, India
Pure London
FFANY
MOMAD Metropolis
FEB. 3-5; JUNE 2-4 Hilton New York Hotel &
member showrooms, New York
A number of brands will join the New York show
in February, among them Soho Shoes, Tamaris,
Kate Bosworth and Adrianna Papell. At the June
edition, FFANY will roll out several new features
under its FFANY365 digital marketplace.
FEB. 8-10 Feria de Madrid, Madrid
GDS
FEB. 4-6 Düsseldorf Fairgrounds,
Düsseldorf, Germany
Following the launch of a bold new format in
July, the German fair is prepping to unveil a new
concept within its premium Studio world. Created
as a way to support emerging talent, the Design
Trendsetter area will showcase a group of 20 international designers chosen by a jury of industry
leaders. The designers, who include Laurence
Dacade, Alain Tondowski, Charline de Luca and
Azzurra Gronchi, will present their collections at
both GDS’ February and July shows this year.
TRU Show
FEB. 8-9
Embassy Suites San Francisco Waterfront,
Burlingame, Calif.
Kentucky Shoe Buying Mart
FEB. 8-9
FEB. 8-10 Olympia London, London
Première Vision/Indigo/
Modamont
FEB. 10-12 Paris Nord Villepinte, Paris
The Atlanta Shoe Market
FEB. 12-14 Cobb Galleria Centre & Renaissance Waverly Hotel, Atlanta
The Atlanta Shoe Market’s February edition
will feature an additional 5,600 square feet of
exhibitor space as the event continues to see
growing demand. A casino-inspired cocktail party
will be held on the show’s opening night, followed
by a “Colour & Trend” breakfast seminar the
next morning.
The Micam
FEB. 15-18 Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy
MARCH 18-20 Shanghai Exhibition Center,
Shanghai
Following the departure of Fabio Aromatici in
June, Tommaso Cancellara has been named the
new general manager of The Micam, with his post
commencing this month. More than 1,500 international brands will be showcased at the Italian
footwear fair’s upcoming event, including new
additions Ruco Line and Stephane Kélian. The
show’s central hub, TheMicamSquare, located in
Pavilion 10, will feature a series of trend presentations, runway shows and retail seminars.
Mipel
FEB. 15-18 Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy
KIDShow
FEB. 16-18 Bally’s Hotel, Las Vegas
FEB. 17-19 Las Vegas & Mandalay Bay
Convention Centers, Las Vegas
Advanstar’s Magic marketplace encompasses
several shows, including FN Platform, WWDMagic, Project, ENK Vegas, WSA @ Magic and
Sourcing at Magic. Playground, a juried show
focused on contemporary children’s apparel, will
debut this season.
Lineapelle
FEB. 25-27 Fiera Milano, Milano-Rho, Italy
WSA @ Magic
FEB. 17-19 Las Vegas Convention Center,
Las Vegas
WSA @ Magic will focus on the fast-fashion
footwear segment, with product from more than
100 countries.
Toronto Shoe Show
FEB. 22-24 Toronto Congress Centre,
Toronto
| JANUARY 12, 2015
FEB. 23-25 Javits Convention Center,
New York
The women’s footwear show, held twice annually
as part of Coterie, will showcase several new
exhibitors, including JB Martin, Gianna Meliani,
Être, Ernest and Gordana Dimitrijevic.
FEB. 17-19 Las Vegas Convention Center,
Las Vegas
Celebrating its fifth anniversary, FN Platform
will unveil a new look in each of the show’s
themed lifestyle lounges. Singer Taylor Dayne
will perform at the opening-night party. On the
show’s second night, FN Platform, Footwear
News and NPD Group will host an invite-only
party to mark Two Ten Footwear Foundation’s
75th anniversary. Marie Claire magazine will oversee the show’s social media channels throughout
its three-day run.
FEB. 22-23 Marriott-Teaneck Glenpointe,
Teaneck, N.J.
16 |
Sole Commerce
FN Platform
Children’s Great Event
Shoe Show
Atlanta Shoe
Market
Transit
Magic Las Vegas
Coterie/Tomorrow/Sole
Tomorrow
FEB. 23-25 Javits Convention Center,
New York
Michigan Shoe Market
MARCH 1-2 Embassy Suites Hotel,
Livonia, Mich.
Shoe Market of the Americas
MARCH 1-3; JUNE 28-30 Miami Airport
Convention Center & DoubleTree Airport
Hotel, Miami
Sapica
MARCH 17-20 Poliforum León Convention &
Exhibition Center, León, Mexico
National Bridal Market
Chicago
MARCH 22-24 Merchandise Mart, Chicago
Fashion Access
MARCH 30-APRIL 1 Hong Kong Convention
& Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong
New York International
Bridal Week
APRIL 18-20 Pier 92, New York
Atlanta Fashion Shoe Market
JUNE 10-11 Embassy Suites Hotel, Atlanta
The Running and Fitness
Event for Women
JUNE 29-JULY 1 Navy Pier & W Chicago
Lakeshore Hotel, Chicago
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TRADE SHOWS
India International
Leather Fair
FN FEATURES
THE BEST
OF THE WEST
Fashion Director: Mosha Lundström Halbert
Assistant Fashion Editor: Christian Allaire
Western
Wrap-Up
Reptile textures and intricate tooling give
cowboy boots love-worn appeal. Here,
OLD GRINGO’s pointy-toe bootie with
hardware trim (paired with Siwy jeans)
and ANDERSON BEAN’s textured squaretoe style with a decorative stitched shaft
are quite the sizzling hot pair.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ISA WIPFLI
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 17
From left: STETSON’s
tapered-toe boot
with trapunto shaft
detailing; Mavi jeans.
KOOLABURRA’s fringed
suede stack-heel ankle boot.
Blankets throughout by
Woolrich. Hats throughout
courtesy of Space Cowboy.
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 19
From left: HORSE
POWER’s square-toe style
with scrollwork at the
topline; J Brand jeans.
SENDRA’s ankle boot with
cross embellishment;
A.P.C. Dress.
Hair: Katsumi Matsuo using Bumble & Bumble at Artmix
Makeup: Daniella for Nars at Workgroup
Models: Giza at One Management and Brendon at Fusion
From left:
DURANGO’s
wingtip mid-calf
boot with feather
embellishment;
Sportsmax dress.
LANE’s denim-wash
leather boots with
stud trim; Mavi jeans.
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 21
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O E
MILAN H
theMICAM SHOW ISSUE
Get in front of the most influential power players in the footwear industry.
theMICAM FEBRUARY 15—18
For more information on advertising, contact Lauren Schor, Sales Development Director, at 212.630.4874, or [email protected].
MARKETPLACE
WESTERN BOOT SPECIAL × BUZZ
Get the Dirt
Iconic boot brand Tony Lama never steps too far away from its roots,
always keeping a toe in the culture of Texas. For the coming season, though,
line builder Lisa Smith turned to some unexpected sources of inspiration.
PHOTO: COURTESY OF TONY LAMA
FOR MORE ON THE BRAND SHOWN HERE, SEE PAGE 24
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 23
MARKETPLACE
WESTERN × Behind the Scenes
“The Haberdashery Boutique
in Fredricksburg, Texas, carries
unconstructed looks that are very
modern and Japanese in feeling.
You can wear Western boots with
[this look]. The two just go together.”
“Kacey Musgraves has a cool vibe. She’s my
gal because she can be old-school retro, which she
puts into her music and look, but can also be
glamorous. You always know where she comes from.”
INSPIRATIONPOINT
Lisa Smith doesn’t have to venture far from home
to immerse herself in cowboy country. The
line builder for Tony Lama lives the Western
lifestyle in El Paso, Texas, where the
iconic boots are manufactured. “Living
here sparks my creative juices,” said Smith
(below), who drew on the city’s sights and
smells for the fall ’15 collection. “It’s about the
culture, history and Southwest desert.” As one
of the oldest boot labels in the U.S., Tony Lama
remains true to its roots. “We’re known for better
exotics and silhouettes that are sleek and close
to the foot. It’s that sexy look people think of
when it comes to cowboy boots,” Smith said. And the
brand always keeps its core customer in mind. “It’s great
inspiration to have the consumer who uses boots as a
tool or part of their gear bag.” Here,
Smith blends modern and traditional
themes for a contemporary
take on an American classic.
BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY
“A [recent] trip to Sedona revived me.
The colors, shadows and natural beauty
knocked me for a loop. I now want things
to be fresh. It’s a shedding of all the glitz
and bling for cleanliness and simplicity.”
24 |
| JANUARY 12, 2015
“Mexican calendars featuring Mariachi-inspired
Adelita girls — the type wearing peasant blouses
and big skirts — have inspired me. I have a book
[featuring] them and go to it very often.”
PHOTOS: SMITH, ADELITA CALENDAR: COURTESY OF BRAND; ALL OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES
Tony Lama
“I built a home this year
and went [shopping] in a store
with modern furniture, where
everything was so clean. I’m
ready to shed all [my] chotchkes
and dust collectors.”
MARKETPLACE
Burning Question × WESTERN
How do
you stoke
interest in
Western
between
fashion
cycles?
Jamie Lawenda
Designer; Sendra Boots
“There’s always a Western element in
fashion in America. It’s part of our heritage,
like jazz. Right now, consumers are very
nostalgic about classic items, so Western
boots are being sold new and used. We’re
using fresh and interesting leathers, as well
as repurposed rubber [to give our] Western
styles a new end use.”
Justine Lord
President; Lane Boots
“We’re lucky that iconic luxury designers
have been influenced by Western design
for spring ’15. We, in turn, incorporate current fashion trends into our collections.
While we’ll always offer timeless styles, we
also have pieces that are able to resonate
with consumers that may not normally
look to the Western market.”
PHOTOS: LAWENDA: GEORGE CHINSEE; ALL OTHERS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY
Steven Kahla
Amber Vanwy
Marketing director; Rios of Mercedes
“Social media has been a game-changer. We
use Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest. Being
able to reach out to the nontraditional boot
buyer and show them the benefits of a true
American-made, handmade cowboy boot
has been an amazing way for us to bring the
factory to the public.”
Director of marketing, lifestyle brands;
Rocky Brands
“When Western trends down, it’s important to incorporate design elements that
convey current trends such as colors, materials and hardware. It’s also important to
align ourselves with brand-right entities
that aren’t necessarily Western.”
Shane Holman
Senior director, global Western trend;
Ariat International
“Western is a way of life for many, so those
consumers will always stay true to boots. But
we have been working with bloggers to show
consumers how to mix a mainstream fashion
look with a Western boot for an updated
boho look. On our website, we [also] show
ways you can wear Western looks [every day]
without it being a ‘trend.’”
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 25
MARKETPLACE
WESTERN × They Are Wearing
No Bull
PHOTOS: NOAH SCIALOM
At the Professional Bull Riders
event in Baltimore on Jan. 2-3,
attendees and competitors took a
serious stance with their footwear.
For most, roughened-up cowboy
boots were the order of the day,
decked out with buckles or hand
tooling. But for some participants,
who might need to move fast,
athletic footwear was the safer bet.
26 |
| JANUARY 12, 2015
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9/18/14 6:34 PM
ISSUE DATE: 2/16/15 | AD CLOSE: 2/4/15
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ADVERTISING, CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, SALES DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, AT 212.630.4874, OR YOUR FN SALESPERSON
MARKETPLACE
WESTERN × Retail Spotlight
Co-owners Paul Greyshock
and Jaylin Ramer
28 |
| JANUARY 12, 2015
MARKETPLACE
Retail Spotlight × WESTERN
Urban Frontier
New York is home on the range for Western boot retailer
Space Cowboy. BY BARBARA SCHNEIDER-LEVY
PHOTOS: THOMAS IANNACCONE
S
pace Cowboy is where Texas meets
New York. The Western boot retailer’s Manhattan store, the only one
of its kind in the city, has become
the go-to spot for authentic cowboy boots.
Opened in 2011 in trendy Nolita,
the 400-sq.-ft. space specializes in
handcrafted boots from brands that include
Stallion, J.B. Hill, Lucchese, Liberty and Old
Gringo, in addition to its own Planet Cowboy
private label.
“We’re a mom-and-pop [business],” co-owner Jaylin Ramer said about the boutique that
prides itself on its selection of custom boots.
“It’s what sets us apart.”
While Western trends may ebb and flow,
business at the store continues to grow
15 percent annually. Encouraged by robust
sales, Ramer and partner Paul Greyshock plan
to open a second location in Manhattan later
this year and start wholesaling their privatelabel collection.
In addition to its inventory of 3,000 pairs,
Space Cowboy offers a customization service
for clients who have hard-to-fit feet. To meet
the needs of those customers, the store can
create a special last that addresses specific
foot issues.
And both Ramer and Greyshock are available to craft individual designs by mixing and
matching colors, toe shapes and heel heights
produced by any of its brands. Currently,
about 30 percent of the store’s business is
devoted to custom work, said Greyshock.
For those who can’t make the trip to the
store, Space Cowboy operates an e-commerce
site that accounts for 10 percent of sales. In
addition, the retailer offers accessories such
as hats, bags and logo T-shirts, as well as boot
repairs.
Greyshock’s expertise in the business dates
back to Buffalo Chips, a Western boot store he
founded in New York in the late 1980s. When
rising rents in its Soho neighborhood forced
him to close after 30 years, he returned to his
former profession as a hairstylist.
But soon Greyshock’s passion for the
business resurfaced, and he decided to give
retailing another try. This time, he made his
home in the more affordable Nolita, tapping
friend and fellow boot aficionado Ramer as his
partner.
“I’m living my dream,” said Ramer, who left
a career in real estate to join Greyshock. “I
love cowboy boots and designing them.”
Stallion Boot Co. is among the brands that
have worked with Greyshock since Buffalo
Chips. “Paul is great with styles and knows
what looks good [when it comes to] colors,”
said Annette Lawrence, VP for Stallion. “I’m
always impressed [with his ideas]. He has a
good eye.”
She noted that business with the retailer has
been on an uptick. “Since last year, the store
has [increased] its orders from once a month
to where it can now be daily,” Lawrence said.
Diana Farmer, GM at J.B. Hill — another
veteran of the Buffalo Chips era — pointed out
that Space Cowboy is the brand’s only East
Coast location, and for an important reason:
“Since New York is surrounded by so many
states, and people always travel here, it’s nice
to have them come in and see our product.”
Space Cowboy’s focus on higher-end handmade product comes with price tags to match.
Boots range from $395 for Planet Cowboy
styles made in Mexico to a pair of domestically
produced alligator boots at $6,000.
In addition, the store offers a children’s line
under the Planet Cowboy and Smokey Mountain names, retailing from $95 to $250. “Kids
come in for boots, and parents [wind up] buying a pair for themselves,” Ramer said about
the trickle-up effect.
Western boot consumers are wide-ranging,
she added. “There isn’t a particular customer.
We get them from every country,” Ramer said,
noting that tourists from Australia, the Netherlands, Germany, Japan, Ireland and France
have shopped in the store. “We then get a lot of
repeat business, with people coming back year
after year and sending their friends.”
The store stocks a wide
range of handcrafted boots
JANUARY 12, 2015 |
| 29
MARKETPLACE
WESTERN × Good Taste
MOST EXOTIC PLACE I’VE VISITED:
“Stockholm. When I travel, it’s
always around visiting other
shoemakers. This time, it was
Carina Eneroth, the official
shoemaker to the royal family.”
IF I WASN’T A
BOOTMAKER,
I’D BE:
“A craftsman
who works
with wood.”
Western bootmaker Lisa Sorrell is a one-woman
show. The founder of Sorrell Custom Boots in
Guthrie, Okla., turns out 15 to 20 pairs of handmade boots a year, ranging from $5,000 for a
decorative leather style to $40,000 for an alligator boot-and-belt set with sterling silver details.
Sorrell, 46, a former seamstress, was introduced
to the craft more than 20 years ago after stitching
shafts for a bootmaker. “I had no idea what the job
was about and had never worn cowboy boots,” said
Sorrell, who instantly fell in love with the art form.
Committed to passing down the tradition, she
offers classes and posts a monthly YouTube video
series called “It’s a Boot Life” to share her techniques. “People have the desire to learn something
they can do with their hands,” she said. And while
Sorrell’s boots spring from cowboy culture, she has
no cowboy customers. Instead, they’re typically
CEOs with homes in the West who love the local art
and enjoy wearing tough-guy boots. Here are a few
things Sorrell enjoys. By Barbara Schneider-Levy
30 |
| JANUARY 12, 2015
CELEBRITY I’D LIKE TO DESIGN BOOTS FOR:
“Nick Offerman, because he has a wood
shop, or Daniel Day Lewis, since he
trained with a shoemaker in Italy for two
years. I’m fascinated with craftsmen.”
WHAT I WEAR WHEN NOT
IN WESTERN BOOTS:
“If I’m jogging, it’s
sneakers. Playing in the
snow, it’s rain boots.”
ON A TYPICAL SATURDAY NIGHT IN OKLAHOMA, I WILL:
“Go to the mall or a watch a movie. We [head] to
Oklahoma City, where there’s the [Penn Square Mall]
with a Macy’s and an Apple store.”
PHOTOS: SORRELL: COURTESY OF SORRELL CUSTOM BOOTS; SNEAKERS: KYLE ERICKSEN; PENN SQUARE MALL: COURTESY OF SIMON MALLS; ALL OTHERS: GETTY IMAGES
Lisa Sorrell
MARKETPLACE
Spring ’15 Launches × BUZZ
Sunshine State
The Lilly Pulitzer brand, known for its Floridainspired apparel and accessories, is being introduced to a new generation of customers through a
spring ’15 collaboration with Target. The limitededition collection features a range of lifestyle
products sporting the label’s signature floral patterns. The line offers
footwear for women
and girls, including
flip-flops with Pulitzer
prints on the footbeds.
Set to debut on
April 19, women’s
shoes retail for $16 to
$36, and girls’ styles will be priced at $18 to $20.
United Front
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BRANDS
BC Footwear, based in Los Angeles, is collaborating for spring ’15 with ban.do, an L.A. design house
specializing in gifts and accessories. The two-style
package includes the Hip Hip Hooray footbed
sandal and Unicorn lace-up shoe, featuring
ban.do’s popular prints. Ban.do has developed a
cult following among celebrities and consumers for its
playful approach to tech
and hair accessories.
Set to deliver in April to
major retailers, including Zappos.com and Nordstrom, the line will retail for $60 for the sandal and
$70 for the laceup.
Homme Territory
Los Angeles-based brand Android Homme has
relaunched for spring ’15. The men’s collection, which ranges from $440 to $590, now has
a tight focus of three sneaker styles, including a
high-top, low-top and runner. The three shoes
come in red-, black- and white-embossed leather.
Though the brand initially launched in 2008, it
has discontinued all existing styles and shifted
its focus to reflect the booming
sneaker market. The collection will launch
on Android
Homme’s
website on
Feb. 15. In addition, founder and designer Javier
Laval told Footwear News that branded stores will
open in 2015 in Shanghai and Beijing. “We also
have some exciting collaborations happening in
2015 that will be sure to capture everyone’s attention,” he said.
Art Gallery
Handbag brand Anuschka is
adding comfort footwear to
the mix for spring ’15. While
the label’s colorful handpainted bags are produced
in Italy, the shoes will be
manufactured in Turkey
and will match the artwork of the accessories
collection for a complete look. The debut series
focuses on three silhouettes in printed motifs
and color-coordinated solids. Comfort features
include adjustable-strap closures, memory-foam
footbeds and faux-cork bottoms for added shock
absorption and support. Retailing for $125 to $149,
the line is targeted to independents, boutiques
and e-tailers. Delivery is slated for April.
FOOTWEAR NEWS 2014 EDITORIAL CALENDAR
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SPACE CLOSE
EDITORIAL FEATURE
JANUARY
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Flip Flop
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Help Wanted- Technician
experienced in better grade
vulcanized waterproof footwear
production with knowledge of
machinery, materials, processes
and finishing. Must have full
working knowledge with minimum
5 years hands on experience. This
is a 6 month minimum consulting
position that could develop into a
full time position and
compensation is dependent on
experience
Please Contact:
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Blue
Notes
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Robert Downey Jr. has always
played colorful roles on screen —
from “Less Than Zero” to “Iron
Man” — so it’s only fitting that
he often looks the part as well.
He did that last week, when the
bankable box-office star won
Favorite Movie Actor at the
People’s Choice Awards in Los
Angeles. Downey had the perfect
palette: a wardrobe in a variety of
blues, from his Balenciaga Arena
sneakers to his suit and T-shirt.
On the Cover: Photographed by ISA WIPFLY. Mavi jeans, Woolrich blankets, Space Cowboy hats.
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32 |
| JANUARY 12, 2015
SAVE THE DATE
M AY 11–13, 20 15
MIAMI
T O A T T E N D : [email protected] 212.630.4212
T O S P O N S O R : [email protected] 212.630.4824