A SPECIAL PUBLICATION CREATED BY VISUAL JOURNALISM AND TRAVEL WRITING: ITALY STUDENTS | SPRING 2011 ROMANTIC VENICE BY GONDOLA EXPLORING MERCANTIA, A MAGICAL FESTIVAL EATING GLUTENFREE IN PASTA COUNTRY I AM IN ITALY MA NON CAPISCO! GUVANO, THE NUDE BEACH OF THE ITALIAN RIVIERA WRITERS HAZAR ALKHAWAJA PAMELA BIRCHARD CHRISTEN CALLOWAY BROOKE CURRIER ANNYE DEGRAND KRYSTA HAMANN CAREN SARGENT EMILY WARNER ANGEL WILLIAMSON Piazza del Duomo in the center of Florence. Gondolas in Venice. Cappucino, a breakfast drink in Italy. Summer fruits in the narrow streets of the medieval city. A marble statue in the Palazzo Pitti. Ricotta stuffed ravioli. A typical afternoon break for espresso coffee. Balsamic vinegar, used in Italian cooking. Guvano beach, a nude coastal destination. DESIGN EDITORS inside SPRING 2011 4 I AM IN ITALY MA NON CAPISCO! MAGGIE LASLEY BLAIR MISHLEAU JENNIFER PARTINSKY TRACY PAWLIKOWSKI CRUZ RESENDIZ CANDELARIA ROSALES Should you learn Italian before going, or attempt to learn as you go? Traveling abroad gave me some answers while making my way through Italy. Hazar Alkhawaja 6 BEATING THE FLORENTINE HEAT One way to escape hot Florence is to spend the day at Piscina Le Pavoniere. Annye DeGrand and Krysta Hamann 8 GLUTEN WHAT? RYAN ROXAS ALEXANDRA SEQUENZ JOANNA WESOLY LUKASZ WILUSZ Finding alternative foods in the land where pasta and pizza prevail. Caren Sargent 9 OH WATER, WHERE ART THOU? Jogging in Florence when the temperature is in the upper 90’s. Caren Sargent FACULTY ADVISERS 10 THE ROOTS OF PINOCCHIO NANCY DAY ELIO LETURIA TERESA PUENTE Pinocchio doesn’t just live in the Land of Magic. Emily Varner 12 MAGICAL FESTIVAL DRAWS VISITORS TO CERTALDO In the hilltop village of Certaldo, an international cast of diverse performers converge. Christen Calloway This publication has been possible thanks to the sponsorship and support of the Journalism Department of Columbia College Chicago 14 EAT. PRAY. COOK In Florence, students at Apicius culinary school learn the art of turning simple ingredients into dynamic Italian dishes. Pamela Brichard 16 SQUISHED! SPECIAL THANKS Norma Green, professor, Chris Richert, Journalism Department General Manager Konrad Biegaj, computer specialist and Chris Greiner, Director of International Programs, Columbia College Chicago $VWXGHQW¶VH[SHULHQFHDW,O3DOLRGL6LHQD7KH3DOLRKRUVHUDFHUHGH¿QHV the word “crowded.” Hazar Alkhawaja 18 HIKING TO THE ELUSIVE GUVANO BEACH $VXUSULVLQJO\GLI¿FXOWWUHNWRRQHRI,WDO\¶VPRVWIDPRXVQXGHEHDFKHV Christen Calloway 20 BLACK BEAUTY Finding ethnic hair style in Florence. Angel Williamson 22 SATURDAY NIGHT IN CINQUE TERRE PLEASE RECYCLE Wanderer is a studentproduced magazine. It does not necessarily represent, in whole or in part, the views of college administrators, faculty, the Journalism Department or the student body as a whole. A mix of people, tourists, locals, children, teens and even adults gather at Monterosso in Cinque Terre to dance at a weekly Saturday night disco. Krista Hamann 24 BENVENUTI A VENEZIA Wanderer magazine is a collaborative project produced by the Fall 2010 Visual Journalism students, Department of Journalism of Columbia College Chicago. Students edited, designed and laid out each story as his or her final class project. The articles and the photography were produced by students who took Travel Writing courses in the summers of 2009 and 2010, based in Florence, Italy. For more stories and photos please visit ottimotuscany.blogspot.com Gondolas, carnival masks, Murano glass artifacts and other Venice experiences you can’t leave without seeing. Brooke Currier and Hazar Alkhawaja 26 AN EXPERIENCE OF A LIFETIME Over two summer Travel Writing courses, Columbia College students explore Italy. In Summer 2011, Assistant Professor Teresa Puente will be teaching Introduction to Fashion Journalism, based in Florence, with trips to Milan, Venice and Rome. It is open to all majors, with permission of the instructor. Email [email protected] for more information. PHOTOS by PAMELA BRICHARD, BROOKE CURRIER, CHRISTEN CALLOWAY, ELIO LETURIA 2 student wanderer student wanderer 3 Traveling to a new country means being a stranger in a new world. This can be exciting, frightening and adventurous. Not understanding the native language, PDQRQFDSLVFR can be challenging, yet FDQSRVHDGLI¿FXOWTXHVWLRQ6KRXOG\RXOHDUQWKH language before going, or attempt to learn as you go? Traveling abroad gave some answers to Hazar Alkhawaja, while making her way through Italy. I AM IN MA NON CAPISCO! BY HAZAR ALKHAWAJA º> KDWLVWKDW¿OOHG ZLWK"´P\IULHQG DVNHGSRLQWLQJ DWVRPHGHOLJKW- IXOORRNLQJFRRN- LHODEHOHGµ%DFLGL GDPD¶7KHPLGGOHDJHG,WDOLDQZRPDQ KDLUSXOOHGEDFNDQGFRYHUHGZLWKDSLHFH RIZKLWHIDEULFSHUKDSVDQDOWHUQDWLYHWRD KDLUQHWJDYHXVDUDWKHUSX]]OHGORRN 0\IULHQGSRLQWHGDJDLQ³&KRFRODWH"´ 7KHODG\WKHQH[FODLPHG³QRQRQRW FKRFRODWHIUXLW«,GRQ¶WNQRZKRZWRVD\ LWLQ(QJOLVK´7KH¿OOLQJDSSHDUHGWREHD VRUWRIMDPVRQDWXUDOO\,WKRXJKWLWZDV W\SHRIEHUU\8SRQTXHVWLRQLQJKHUDJDLQ VKHQRGGHGFKHHUIXOO\DQGLQIRUPHGXV WKDW\HVLWZDVLQGHHGDEHUU\ 7KLVZRPDQLQDQDURPDWLFEDNHU\RQ 9LDGHL1HULRQO\VSRNH,WDOLDQ,FRXOG QRWKHOSEXWWRWKLQNDERXWODQJXDJHEDU- ULHUVLQDSODFHRIWRXULVPOLNH)ORUHQFH 7KHSUHVHQFHRIDQXQIDPLOLDUODQJXDJHDW RQH¶VGHVWLQDWLRQLVXQGRXEWHGO\LQWLPL- GDWLQJ7RXULVWVPD\¿QGLWQHFHVVDU\WR OHDUQVHYHUDOFRPPRQZRUGVWKDWPD\DO- ORZIRUDSOHDVDQWDQGXQSUREOHPDWLFVWD\ 7KRXVDQGVRIWRXULVWVFRPHHDFK\HDU WR)ORUHQFHDFLW\¿OOHGZLWKFXOWXUHDUW DUFKLWHFWXUHDQGGHOHFWDEOHFXLVLQH6RPH PD\NQRZ,WDOLDQRWKHUVEDUHO\DQGWKH PDMRULW\SUREDEO\PDGHVXUHWRRUGHUD FRS\RIµ,WDOLDQIRU'XPPLHV¶SULRUWRWKHLU MRXUQH\ &DQDWRXULVWJHWE\LQWKHFLW\ZLWKRXW NQRZLQJWKHODQJXDJH" ,DVNHGWKHZRPDQZKRVDWLV¿HGRXU VZHHWWRRWKWKRVHFRRNLHVZHUHXQGHQL- DEO\GHOLFLRXV6KHIRXQGLWGLI¿FXOWWRXQ- GHUVWDQGPHEXWWRP\DVVLVWDQFHFDPH DPDQIURP&DOLIRUQLDZKRVDWWKHUHZLWK KLVKDOIHDWHQYHJHWDULDQSL]]D+HWUDQV- ODWHGP\TXHVWLRQWRZKLFKVKHUHSOLHG WKDWLIDWRXULVWZDQWVWRUHFHLYHWKHULJKW RUGHUZLWKRXWSRLQWLQJWKH\PXVWNQRZ 4 student wanderer ITALY JOANNA WESOLY Learning basic Italian is part of Stefani Kladis’ to do list while planning a summer trip to Italy. ,WDOLDQVLQFHWKDWLVWKHRQO\ODQJXDJHVKH LVÀXHQWLQ $VWXGHQWIURP0LVVRXULSXUVXLQJDPD- MRULQ,QWHUQDWLRQDO%XVLQHVVDQGDPLQRU LQ,WDOLDQ6WXGLHV)HOLFLD'DQQHPDQQH[- SODLQHGWKDWVKHIRXQGLWSDLQOHVVDVPRVW ,WDOLDQVVKHHQFRXQWHUHGVSRNHDWOHDVWD OLWWOH(QJOLVK ³7KHPDMRULW\RIELJFLWLHV>VXFKDV)ORU- HQFH@KDYHFRXQWOHVVYHQGRUVDQGZDLWHUV WKDWVSHDNVRPH(QJOLVKDVZHOODVPDQ\ RILWVLQKDELWDQWV´'DQQHPDQQVDLG³,Q VPDOOWRZQVKRZHYHUNQRZLQJVRPH,WDO- LDQFDQEHH[WUHPHO\KHOSIXO,Q1DSOHV ,WULHGWRRUGHUDSL]]DDQGZDVJLYHQWKH ZURQJRQHDQGZKHQ,RUGHUHGDEHELWD GULQNWKH\EURXJKWPHDELUUDEHHU´ 0DULDQJHOD*XDULQRDQ,WDOLDQODQ- JXDJHWHDFKHUDWWKH6FKRRORI/RUHQ]RGH 0HGLFLH[SODLQHGWKHPHQXVXVXDOO\LQ- FOXGHWKHOLVWRIGLVKHVLQ(QJOLVKDQG WKDWLQGLFDWHVWKHUHVWDXUDQWVWULYHVWRDS- SHDOWRYLVLWRUVLQWKHDUHDUDWKHUWKDQOR- FDO,WDOLDQV ³7KRXJKPDQ\,WDOLDQVGRQRWOLNHLWYHU\ PXFKUHVWDXUDQWVDQGVKRSVKDYHEHHQDG- MXVWLQJWRLQFRPLQJWRXULVWVWKH\HYHQRIIHU FDSSXFFLQRVIRUOXQFK´VKHVDLG6KHUHF- RPPHQGHGVWXGHQWVDQGWRXULVWVWROHDUQ ,WDOLDQEHIRUHDQGGXULQJWKHLUVWD\³6WX- GHQWVQHHGWRUHDOL]HWKDWQRWHYHU\RQH VSHDNV(QJOLVKRWKHUFRXQWULHVGRKDYH WKHLURZQQDWLYHODQJXDJH´VKHDGGHG ,WDOLDQVRIWHQDSSHDUWRDSSUHFLDWHDIRU- HLJQHU¶VDWWHPSWDWWKHLUODQJXDJH'XULQJ DWULSWR3LVDZLWKWZRIULHQGVRQDVFRUFK- LQJKRWDQGKXPLGGD\RQHIULHQGH[- FODLPHG³0XFFKLRFDOGR´HDJHUWRSUDF- WLFHWKHODQJXDJH $QHDUE\,WDOLDQPDQFRUUHFWVKHUHQ- WKXVLDVWLFDOO\³0ROWR0ROWRFDOGR´YHU\ YHU\KRWDFNQRZOHGJLQJKHUDWWHPSW ,QPDQ\VLWXDWLRQVLWLVHDVLHUWRVLPSO\ NQRZWKHZRUG\RXQHHGWRXVH$WDFDIp LQ/XFFD,RUGHUHGDQDSSHWL]LQJ1XWHO- ODVPRWKHUHGFUHSHIUHVKO\PDGHDQG EURXJKWWRP\WDEOH&RQVFLRXVRIWKRVH ZKRFKRVHQRWWRRUGHU,XUJHGWKHPWR WDVWHLWRQO\WRWKHQUHDOL]H,ZDVPHUHO\ JLYHQRQHIRUN,DVNHGWKHPZKDWWKH,WDO- LDQZRUGIRUµIRUN¶ZDVIXUWKHULQVLVWLQJ WKDWWKH\PXVWWU\WKHGHVVHUW³)RUFKHWWD´ WKH\UHVSRQGHG,KHVLWDQWO\DSSURDFKHG WKHZDLWUHVV³)RUFKHWWD"´,VDLGTXHVWLRQ- LQJO\XQVXUHWRZKHWKHUVKHHYHQVOLJKWO\ XQGHUVWRRG6KHJULQQHGDQGQRGGHGWKHQ WRP\VXUSULVHSUHVHQWHGPHWKHFRUUHFW XWHQVLO /HDUQLQJDQGXVLQJWKHZRUGZDVGH¿- QLWHO\HIIRUWOHVVDVRSSRVHGWRFDUU\LQJP\ IRUNWRKHURUPDNLQJDTXLFNDWWHPSWDW PDVWHULQJWKHXVHRIKDQGJHVWXUHV2S- SRUWXQLWLHVRWKHUWKDQUHDGLQJPHQXVWR OHDUQ,WDOLDQDUHSUHYDOHQWIRUWKRVHLQWHU- HVWHG$WWKHJURFHU\VWRUHIUXLWVDQGYHJ- The Italian Basics Italian Buon Giorno Ciao Buona Sera Come Stai? Scusi Sono Di... Parla Italiano? Grazie English Hello/ Good Morning Hi/Hello/Bye Good Evening How are you? Excuse me I am from.. Do you speak Italian? Thanks Courtesy ELIO LETURIA Not knowing a language can be frustrating and can lead to receiving something you did not order. HWDEOHVFDQEHZHLJKHGDQGSULFHGZLWKWKH SUHVVRIDEXWWRQ7KDWEXWWRQDOVRKDS- SHQVWRKDYHDSLFWXUHRIWKHLWHP«DQGWKH ,WDOLDQZRUGIRULW1RWLQJWKHODEHOVDW- WDFKHGWRHDFKIUXLWDQGYHJHWDEOHFDQDOVR KHOS(YHQDFRXSRQFDQWHDFKRQHDIHZ ZRUGVVXFKDVµEX\RQHJHWRQHIUHH¶REYL- RXVO\µIUHH¶LVµJUDWLV¶GXHWRWKHXVHRIUHG DQGODUJHUW\SHVL]Hµ&LDR¶µEXRQJLRUQR¶ µJUD]LH¶DQGµEXRQDVHUD¶DUHDOPRVWLPPH- GLDWHO\UHPHPEHUHGWKDQNVWRVKRSNHHS- HUVDQGWKHLUGHVSHUDWHDWWHPSWWRGUDZ \RXLQVLGH ³/HDUQLQJDWOHDVWDIHZEDVLFSKUDVHV LQDWWHPSWWRFRQYHUVHLQWKHLUODQJXDJH VKRZVUHVSHFWDQGHIIRUW´*XDULQRVDLG ³,WDOLDQVDUHWROHUDQWRIWRXULVWVWKH\UHF- RJQL]H\RXDUHVWLOOOHDUQLQJ,I\RXGRSODQ WROLYHKHUHKRZHYHUWKH\H[SHFW\RXWR NQRZ,WDOLDQ´ ,WLVLQGLVSXWDEO\HDVLHUWROHDUQDQGXVH WKHODQJXDJHZKHQYLVLWLQJ<RXFDQDOVR QHYHUFRPSODLQDERXWNQRZLQJWRRPDQ\ ODQJXDJHV 6RSHUKDSV\RXVKRXOGOHDUQDOLWWOH,WDO- LDQWKRXJK\RXPD\EHDEOHWRJHWE\ WKHQ\RXPD\UHFHLYHWKHDFWXDOPHDO\RX RUGHUHGHQGXSDWWKHULJKWSLD]]DRUPX- VHXPFRPSUHKHQGWKHSOHDVDQWROGPDQ NHHQRQVKDULQJKLV\HDUVRINQRZOHGJH SURSHUO\FRQYHUVHZLWKWKDWFXWH,WDO- LDQER\RUJLUOUDWKHUWKDQJD]HRUPRUH LPSRUWDQWO\¿QGDPHHWLQJSRLQWRUWKH EDWKURRPLQWLPH )UDQFHVFD&DYLQLDMRXUQDOLVWDW/D1D- ]LRQHQHZVSDSHUH[SODLQHGWKDWGHVSLWH DQ\QHJDWLYHSHUFHSWLRQRIWRXULVWVDPRQJ ,WDOLDQVWKHODUJHQXPEHURIYLVLWRUVWR )ORUHQFHLVJUHDWO\EHQH¿FLDOWRLWVHFRQ- RP\DQGJOREDODZDUHQHVV³,WLVEHDXWL- IXOWRVHHDOOWKHVHSHRSOHLQ)ORUHQFH:H DUHH[SRVHGWRDOOWKHLUGLIIHUHQWFXOWXUHV´ VKHVDLG —Design by Joanna Wesoly student wanderer 5 BEATING THE FLORENTINE HEAT COURTESY OF BIMG IMAGES Escaping the heat by spending the day at Piscina Le Pavoniere PHOTO ILLUSTRATRION BY TRACY PAWLIKOWSKI ; 6 2 student wanderer THERE ARE SOUNDS OF KIDS laughing and playing, water splashing, people talking, birds chirping. The sun is beating down from all sides. Hot beads of sweat roll down the back of legs. It is a hot July day, the hottest day of summer, and we’re at Piscina Le Pavoniere, a public swimming pool located in Florence’s Cascine Park. It’s so hot Escaping the summer heat is almost impossible in Florence. Air conditioners are hard to come by, and fans do not seem to whirl around fast enough to provide the relief you need after hiking up flights of stairs and across countless cobblestone pathways. BY ANNYE DEGRAND AND KRYSTA HAMANN The throngs of people who have gathered at the pool today have found the perfect activity for an afternoon under the Tuscan sun. Felicia Dannemann, an American studying in Florence for two months, comes to the public pool in search of relief from the heat. La Pavoniere is located in the heart of Cascine Park, Florence’s largest public park. On an average day, locals can be spotted jogging around the footpaths, playing soccer in the fields, dancing the night away at the disco, or bargain hunting at the weekly market. In the center of all of this hustle and bustle, is one of many public pools in the city, yet the one said to have the most character and charm. those walls, enterafter year. “A lot Piscina ing the pool area is of Florentines come La Pavoniere almost like entering here and a lot of Viale della Catena a secret garden. As American tourists 055 3215644 soon as you walk come here, too,” Hours onto the deck, you Barpani said. 10:00 am-2:00 am are greeted with the One American Cost sounds of summer— tourist, who has 7 Euros for the day, teenaged boys palbeen visiting Italy or 60 Euros for 10 ing around, young for two weeks, has visits children splashing in already been to the the water while their pool twice in his parents lounge on the short stay. Matt Gorsides of the pool soaking up the man, a student from Boston, sun’s rays. said he keeps returning because The concrete yard is sur- La Pavoniere is better than any rounded with ornate gazebos of the pools he’s been to back in the back corners of the pool. home. “People aren’t acting craTrees line three sides of the zy and splashing everyone; it’s pool, protecting the sunbathers just nicer,” he said. from outside eyes. According to Gabriele Barpani, who has The perfect getaway Entering the pool worked at the pool four years, La Pavionere is the perfect Walking up to the entrance the surrounding park adds to getaway from the hustle and building of La Pavoniere, the the ambiance of the pool. bustle of Florence’s summer outside facade is deceiving to The pool has been open for days. The pool even features new visitors. Although it looks more than 10 summers, and a snack bar with a full service as if nothing special is behind visitors keep coming back year coffee bar, pastries, panini and more. Bring the kids, or some friends and kick back next to the HOW TO GET HERE pool for a day of fun in the sun. Take Bus 17A (2 Euro a ride) to Cascine Park. Walk through the After all, spending the day pooltrees until you happen upon the large beige building that is considside never hurt anyone. ered the front door for the pool. —Design by Tracy Pawlikowski student wanderer 3 7 GLUTEN WH AT? Oh water, where art thou? RJ ROXAS BY CAREN SARGENT T For anyone with Celiac Disease, pasta is a big no-no. BY CAREN SARGENT Finding alternative foods in the land where pasta and pizza prevail 8 student wanderer 6 f all the countries I could have chosen to visit this summer, I had to choose the most carbohydrate infatuated country of all — Italy. With Italy’s abundance of pastas and breads, being a victim of a food allergy has made the trip a bit rough, since I am gluten intolerant. It’s not too bad. At restaurants, I pass the bread to those next to me. When my friends order beer, I order wine. When I go grocery shopping, my purchases usually consist of an abundance of fruits, vegetables and assorted nuts. My favorite thing to snack on here is almonds and apples with peanut butter. My favorite homemade meal is chopped vegetables, basil, tuna, mozzarella and olive oil. Toss in a little pesto and I’m set. RJ ROXAS GLUTEN INTOLERANCE: WHAT IS IT? Known as “Celiac Disease”, Gluten Intolerance is passed on genetically and results in a person lacking an enzyme to properly digest gluten. If someone with Celiac Disease tries to eat foods like bread or pasta, his or her immune system will respond by damaging the small intestine. Gluten is not just found in food, but some medicines, vitamins, and even the glue on stamps and envelopes. Treatment for Celiac Disease is to have a Gluten-free diet. Source NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DIABETES AND DIGESTIVE AND KIDNEY DISEASES “The only problem with eating no real carbohydrates while being in Italy is that my energy levels fluctuate more than ever.” The only problem with eating no real carbohydrates while being in Italy is that my energy levels fluctuate more than ever, most likely because of the heat as well. Nonetheless, I have been able to feel satisfied with food in Italy, and not indulge in the fantastic smelling pizzas, drool-worthy pasta sauces and hunger-inducing freshly baked bread. Desserts on the other hand have been a little more difficult. I have slightly forgotten what bread and pasta actually tastes like, but I crave sugar. When my friends order tiramisú, soufflé and chocolate cake, my mouth waters, and I sit back and chug my water. Gelato has proven to be my tasty treat on those warm summer nights when I am hot, bothered, and my blood sugar begs for something sweet. There is only one restaurant here I have discovered that advertises gluten-free food. The only problem is the menu prices add an additional three Euros to the meal to make it gluten free. I have avoided spending a lot of money on food, so possibly during my last week in Italy, I will treat myself to an expensive, gluten-free pizza. —Design by RJ Roxas he heat increases day to day over the summer in Florence. Every day my fellow students and I sweat off more calories than we eat. We walk everywhere, we climb staircases, and we dance in the evenings at clubs. Some of us, including my roommate Carmel and I, go running. Most days it’s in the mornings before class. Other times it’s in the evenings, when that cool breeze passes through (hopefully). One week, Carmel and I decided to run after class, around three o’clock in the afternoon. This has proven to be problematic; we can only run about 30 minutes, and then we feel a little queasy. Our bodies start to tingle, and our limbs begin to overheat. The feeling of cotton balls being shoved in our mouths seeps in, and we are literally dying for water. Now, seeing how we do not carry anything with us when we run besides our keys tied to our shoelaces, we have no way of getting water until we reach a bathroom sink at a nearby restaurant, or until we arrive back at our apartment. One week, the temperature was in the upper 90’s (F) and desperate measures were taken. One day, I felt as though I was going to fall over on the street, so I went up to a waiter standing outside a restaurant. “Do you have any water in a cup?” I asked. He showed me a water bottle, and said one Euro. I looked at him, batted my eyes, and pointed to the fact that I didn’t have any money. He then handed me the bottle and gave it to me for free. AVERAGE SUMMER TEMPERATURES Venice Milan 72º F 73º F Florence 75º F Rome Even though 75 degrees Farenheit doesn’t seem to be much, italy’s temperatures vary during the day. Florence is among the hottest cities, which is also humid. 75º F SARDINIA 79º F N Source HOLIDAY-WEATHER.COM WORLD ATLAS Palermo SICILY RJ ROXAS “Oh my gosh, really?” I asked. “Yes, yes. For you, no problem,” he said. 7KDWZDVWKH¿UVWGD\,UHFHLYHGDIUHHERWWOH of water after a strenuous run. Carmel was impressed and I was more relieved. The days following, after running in the heat, Carmel dared me to try and get water again. And I did. Now, it is fun to see how many times I can get free water. I am quite convincing as an ‘actress’. I played the part because if I didn’t get water, I would keel over. —Design by RJ Roxas student wanderer 9 THE ROOTS OF PINOCCHIO He doesn’t just live in the Land of Magic BY EMILY VARNER Recreation of the original Pinocchio created by Carlos Collodi in 1883. 2 student 10 studentwanderer wanderer ILLUSTRATION BY ANA-ALICIA CUEVAS I QHYHUNQHZ3LQRFFKLRZDV,WDOLDQ I mean, I guess I never really even thought about it. But if you ever get the chance to visit Italy, they will never let you forget it. The minute you arrive, it is absolutely impossible to escape the thousands of wooden puppets for sale. +HFRPHVLQHYHU\YDULHW\RIVL]H shape color and form—including, but not limited to yo-yos, pencil toppers, bottle- openers, magnets, rulers, jars, cups, ERWWOHVWRSSHUVRUQDPHQWVNH\FKDLQV FKDONERDUGVSHSSHUPLOOVDQGRIFRXUVH SXSSHWV+HLVDQ\ZKHUHDQGHYHU\ZKHUH donning the Italian colors—hanging from every corner, in every store window. I RQO\ZDQWHGWRNQRZ³:KDW¶VWKHGHDO ZLWKWKLVJX\"´+HVHHPHGWRKDYHVR much charm, but why is all of Florence obsessed with a liar? Well, people were more than willing to WDONDERXWWKHLUUHJLRQDOPDVFRW0DVVLPR Lombardi, a vendor in Florence who sells DODUJHDQWLTXHORRNLQJPDULRQHWWHVW\OH version of the character, explained that Pinocchio hails from Collodi (a town sharing the same last name as the original author of the Pinocchio tale), which is only a few hours away from central )ORUHQFHE\WUDLQ+HWROGPHWKDW,WDOLDQV have a sense of pride for creating such DORYHDEOHFKDUDFWHUDQG³DZRQGHUIXO WUDGLWLRQIRUFKLOGUHQ´+HVDLG3LQRFFKLR is one of his most regular, consistent sellers—however since some other vendors have gotten the yo-yos those have been the most popular, especially with NLGV0DVVLPRLQWHQGVWRJHWVRPHRIWKH \R\RVIRUKLVRZQVWDQG³7KH\¶UHDJUHDW VRXYHQLU´KHVDLG For some people it’s a sense of “campanismo,” or town pride, for others it’s a souvenir or a sale, for some it’s about Italian charm $QRWKHUUHVRXUFH,IRXQGLQWKHTXHVW for Pinocchio’s secret charm was a PHUFKDQWZRUNLQJDWWKHORFDOWR\VWRUH Dreoni Giocattoli—this store even has Pinocchio featured on their bags. Giulia &RVWDZKRKDVEHHQZRUNLQJWKHUHIRU almost two years now, told me Pinocchio is a great seller. Dreoni has a giant collection of Pinocchios featured in its IURQWZLQGRZ7KHODUJHVW¿JXUHVWDQGV about four feet tall. ³3HRSOHDOZD\VDVNKRZPXFKWKHELJ RQHLV´VKHWROGPH%XWVRPHRQHKDV\HW WREX\LW³%XW,WKLQNQRRQHZDQWVWRVKLS LWKRPH´VKHVSHFXODWHG So far I have lots of information about how well he sells, and a little bit about his RULJLQ,¶YHUHDGWKHERRNZKLFKLVVROG 1940’s original Pinocchio Walt Disney’s version. HOW DID PINOCCHIO MAKE IT FROM ITALY TO WALT DISNEY WORLD? It all began as a series of tales written by Carlos Collodi to express the poverty and the way of life in Tuscan Italy in the early 1880’s. It was in 1884 that Collodi’s editors asked him to make it more appealing to children. Here is where the fairy was introduced. In 1892 Collodi’s story was translated to the English language. However, it wasn’t until 1911 that the English version really came to light. In 1939 Walt Disney got hold of the story and tweaked it to make it become a fairy tale. On Feb 7, 1940, it was officially released as a Walt Disney production. Fun Fact: Pinocchio was the second fairy tale movie to be released. It came after the production of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. everywhere) and seen the movie (many versions including the Disney classic are available here in both English and Italian), but someone has yet to clue me in about why he is so popular. I mean, why is he at the same level of stardom as pesto and olive oil? Finally, I decided to head for the source IRUVRPHFODUL¿FDWLRQ,KDGWRDVNDNLG I encountered one 9-year-old Italian girl named Carola, near the Ponte 9HFFKLR6KHKDSSHQHGWRVSHDNDOLWWOH (QJOLVKDQG,KDSSHQWRVSHDNDOLWWOH \HDUROG6RZHJRWDORQJMXVW¿QHZKHQ ,DVNHGKHU³'R\RXOLNH3LQRFFKLR"´+HU PRWKHUZDVFORVHE\DQGVWDUWHGWRZDON over when she noticed her daughter being DGGUHVVHGE\D³IRUZDUG$PHULFDQ´ When I explained that I was simply curious about the origins and story of Pinocchio, they both seemed more than ZLOOLQJWRFKDW³+HLVIURP&ROORGL´ &DUROD¶VPRWKHUH[SODLQHG³$QG,KDYH RQH,SXWKLPRQP\&KULVWPDVWUHH´ &DURODZDVTXLFNWRRIIHUKHULQSXW, DVNHGKHULIVKHKDGD3LQRFFKLRERRNDQG VKHUHSOLHGZLWKDVPLOH³<HV,KDYHRQH with both English and Italian words. My DXQWJDYHLWWRPH´ :KHQ,DVNHGKHUZKDWKHUIDYRULWH SDUWRIWKHVWRU\ZDV&DURODGLGQ¶WVNLSD EHDW³,OLNHWKHIDLU\WKHEHVW´ I suppose, ultimately, that Pinocchio has something to offer everyone. For VRPHSHRSOHLW¶VDVHQVHRI³FDPSDQLVPR´ or town pride, for some it’s about Italian FKDUPDQGWUDGLWLRQDQGRWKHUVMXVWOLNH the fairy. —Design by Candelaria Rosales student studentwanderer wanderer 11 3 LEFT Dancers on stilts 6PDUUZKRHDUQHGKHUGRFWRUDWHLQFRP- ³,SHUIRUPZLWKRWKHUSHRSOHZKHQ,¶P SDUDWLYHOLWHUDWXUHDW3ULQFHWRQ8QLYHUVLW\ QRWDWMercantiaDQGZHXVHDXGLHQFH WDXJKWIRU\HDUVDWWKH8QLYHUVLW\RI PHPEHUVLQRXUDFWV´KHH[SODLQVLQDQ ,OOLQRLV&KLFDJREHIRUHPRYLQJWR8&6',Q LQWHUYLHZEHWZHHQSHUIRUPDQFHV+HLV 6DQ'LHJRVKHWHDFKHVVHPLQDUVRQ³,WDOLDQ VFKHGXOHGWRSHUIRUPHYHU\QLJKWRIWKH FRPHG\PDGQHVVLQ5HQDLVVDQFHFXOWXUH IHVWLYDO:HGQHVGD\WKURXJK6XQGD\ DQGGUDPDDQGZRPHQLQ(XURSHDQWKHDWHU ,QWKHDXGLHQFH9DOHQWLQD0DWWROLQLRI EHIRUH´6KHKDVDOVRZULWWHQDERXW 0RQWRSROLGL9DOG¶$UQR3LVDZDWFKHVWKH WKHWKFHQWXU\ZULWHU VKRZZLWKIULHQGV6KH CERTALDO, BY CAR OR TRAIN %RFFDFFLRDQDWLYHRI DWWHQGVWKHGD\IHVWL- &HUWDOGRDQGWKHWRZQ¶V Renting a 5- person manual transmission YDOHYHU\\HDU car for one day is 50 Euro. GPS, automatic PDLQFODLPWRIDPH ³7KLV\HDULVEHWWHU transmission, and insurance cost extra. You EHIRUHWKHMercantia WKDQDOOWKHRWKHUV can take a train to Certaldo from Florence IHVWLYDOEHJDQLQ WKHUHDUHOHVVSHUIRUP- for under 10 Euro, but there are no trains 0RGHUQGD\IHVWL- HUVWKHTXDOLW\LVEHW- back to Florence until 7 a.m. YDOVLQFOXGLQJWKHRQH WHUPRUHVHOHFWLYH´ AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND LQ&HUWDOGRKDYHVHY- VKHVD\V³7KLV\HDU HUNGARY SLOVENIA HUDOSXUSRVHV6PDUU LVPRUHEHDXWLIXODQG CROATIA Venice VDLG³RQHLVDVDOZD\V VSHFWDFXODU´ Milan FRPPHUFLDO²WRGUDZ &DVWRWDNHVDJUHHQ BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA Florence DFURZGWR&HUWDOGR JODVVERWWOHDQGFDUH- Certaldo Ligurian RQHLVSROLWLFDO²FRQ- IXOO\VKDWWHUVLWZLWKD Sea Ad Florence to Certaldo: ria QHFWHGZLWKWKH&RP- GDJJHUPDNLQJVXUHWR 50 km. aprox t CORSICA ic Se a PXQLVW3DUW\DQG/DERU NHHSDOOWKHIUDJPHQWV Rome VWUHHWPDQLIHVWDWLRQVD RQKLVUXJ+HDGGV Tyrrhenian Sea SARDINIA µSHRSOH¶V¶WKHDWUHZLWK PRUHVKDUGVRIJUHHQ FKHDSHQWHUWDLQPHQW JODVVWRWKHSLOHVWDQGV DQGVRPHSROLWLFDOPHV- XSFORVHVKLVH\HVDQG VDJHVDQGRQHLVDUWLV- VWHSVRQWRWKHVKDUGV Ionian Sea Palermo WLF²JHWWLQJSHUIRUP- ZLWKEDUHIHHW&DVWR Mediterranean N SICILY Sea LQJJURXSVWRJHWKHUWR SXOOVD\HDUROG*HU- Source WORLD ATLAS JOE POCS VHHZKDWHDFKRWKHULV PDQ\RXWKQDPHG)D- GRLQJ´ ELDQIURPWKHDXGLHQFH 6XUURXQGHGE\DFURZGDWODVW-XO\¶V WRVWDQGRQKLVFKHVWZKLOHKHLVEHWZHHQ IHVWLYDO/XFD$QGUHD&DVWRRI6LFLO\LV WKHVKDWWHUHGJODVVDQGDEHGRIVKDUSSLQV LQDODUJHRSHQVSDFHRQDQRULHQWDOUXJ &DVWROLHVGRZQZLWKKLVEDFNRQWRSRIWKH GUHVVHGLQDUHGWXUEDQDQGDJROGEHMHZ- JODVVDQGSXWVWKHEHGRISLQVWRZDUGVKLV HOHGYHVWRYHUKLVEDUHFKHVW+HPHGLWDWHV FKHVWZLWKWKHÀDWERDUGIDFLQJWKHVN\ RQKLVNQHHVEHIRUHKHZDYHVVWLFNVRI¿UH +HH[SODLQVZKDWKHZDQWV)DELDQWRGR LQJUDQGJHVWXUHVXQWLOH[WLQJXLVKLQJWKHP 6RRQDIWHUWKHER\LVVWDQGLQJRQWKHERDUG LQKLVPRXWK FRQQHFWHGWRWKHVKDUSSLQVSRLQWLQJLQWR &DVWR¶VFKHVW ³,GLGQ¶WNQRZLI,ZRXOGKXUWKLPEXW, OLNHKLVVKRZ´)DELDQVD\V)DELDQ¶VIDPLO\ FDPHWRMercantiaWKHSUHYLRXV\HDUDQG HQMR\HGWKHIHVWLYDOVRPXFKWKH\FDPH DJDLQ 7KHIHVWLYDOLVIDPLO\IULHQGO\XQWLO SPZLWKPDQ\FKLOGUHQ¶VVKRZVVXFKDV PDJLFDFWVDQGSXSSHWVKRZV.LGVRIDOO DJHVFRPHWRMercantiaLQVFKRROJURXSVRU ZLWKWKHLUIDPLOLHV 7KHIHVWLYDOEHJLQVDWSPDQGODVWV XQWLODPZLWKGLIIHUHQWSHUIRUPDQFHV RQWKHVWDJHVLQWKHVWUHHWVDQGRQWRSRI EXLOGLQJVWKHHQWLUHQLJKW2QWKHSURJUDP WKHUHLVDOLVWRIYHQXHVIRUWKHVWUHHW DUWLVWVEXWWKHUHDUHDOVRRQHPDQVKRZV WKDWZDQGHUWKURXJKRXWWKHWRZQDOOQLJKW PDNLQJWKHYLHZLQJSRVVLELOLWLHVHQGOHVV $WKUHHSHUVRQEDQGFDOOLQJWKHPVHOYHV FROOHFWLYHO\³0U3DOPLJLDQRHL*LJROR´ Mercantia’s diverse performances and ZHDU]RRWVXLWV7KHVLQJHUFURRQVLQWRDQ international cast add to the unique ROGIDVKLRQHGPLFURSKRQHRQ9LD%RFFDF- experience of the festival. FLRWKHPDLQURDGRIWKHPHGLHYDOWRZQ$ ÀDSSHUDGGVWRWKH¶VDWPRVSKHUHDV KHUIULQJHERXQFHVZKLOHVKHGDQFHVWRWKH SLDQLVW¶VMD]]VROR7KHFURZGLVGDQFLQJ DQGVLQJLQJDORQJLQ,WDOLDQ /RKHQJULQ'L3RQLRWKHJXLWDULVWVD\V WKHEDQGZDVERUQODVWZLQWHUEXWWKDWKH KDVSOD\HGDWMercantiaIRUWKHSDVWWKUHH \HDUV ³<RXKDYHWREHLQYLWHGWRSHUIRUPEXW \RXFDQVHQGDSURSRVDOWRWKHRUJDQL]HUV DQGWKH\HYHQWXDOO\FDOOWKHSURSRVDOVWKH\ DUHLQWHUHVWHGLQ´KHVD\V 7KHEDQGGLGDVPDOOVXPPHUWRXURI SERBIA FRANCE perform in the street as part of the ongoing festivities throughout the town. BELOW Luca Andrea Casto of Sicily breathes fire while the crowd watches in a small square. (FRANCE) 4HNPJHS MLZ[P]HS KYH^Z]PZP[VYZ[V*LY[HSKV E [SHFWWR¿QGKRUGHVRISLOJULPV PDNLQJWKHLUZD\XSWKHVWHHSKLOO WRZDUGWKHVRXQGRIGUXPEHDWVLQ WKLVPHGLHYDOYLOODJHZKHUHWKHDQQXDO MercantiaIHVWLYDOWDNHVSODFHHDFK-XO\ &LUFXVSHUIRUPHUVGDQJOHIURPURSHV\RXQJ ZRPHQFRQWRUWLQWRNQRWVMXJJOHUVWZLUO¿UH FRVWXPHGGDQFHUVEDODQFHRQVWLOWVDQGD ERLVWHURXV%DONDQEDQGEHOWVWXQHVLQDSUR- FHVVLRQWRZDUGWKHFDVWOHRQWKHKLOO 7KHLUWLWOHLQ,WDOLDQLVArtisti di Strada 3URIHVVLRQDODUWLVWVRIWKHURDGIURPDURXQG WKHZRUOGFRPHWRSHUIRUPRQWKHVWDJHRIWKH VWUHHWDWMercantiaHDFK\HDUGUDZLQJSHRSOH RIDOODJHVDQGQDWLRQDOLWLHV6WUHHWSHUIRUP- HUVDUHDQLQWHJUDOSDUWRI,WDOLDQFXOWXUHZLWK URRWVGDWLQJEDFNWRWKHDQFLHQW5RPDQV 12 student wanderer 0U[OLOPSS[VW]PSSHNLVM*LY[HSKVHUPU[LYUH[PVUHS JHZ[VMKP]LYZLWLYMVYTLYZJVU]LYNL STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHRISTEN CALLOWAY 'U-DQHW6PDUUKHDGRIWKHGRFWRUDO SURJUDPRIWKH7KHDWUH'HSDUWPHQWDWWKH 8QLYHUVLW\RI&DOLIRUQLD6DQ'LHJRWUDFHG WKHRULJLQVRI,WDOLDQVWUHHWSHUIRUPDQFH ³,WJRHVEDFNWRWKHDQFLHQW5RPDQV ZKRSXWRQµ$WWHODQIDUFH¶²XVXDOO\WZR VHUYDQWVVPDUWDQGGXPEMRNLQJDURXQG DQGUHIHUULQJVDWLULFDOO\WRFXUUHQWSHRSOH DQGHYHQWV´VKHH[SODLQHGLQDQHPDLO LQWHUYLHZ³,QWKH&KULVWLDQHUDWKHUHZDV DWUDGLWLRQRI\RXQJPHQIURPZHOOWRGR IDPLOLHVSXWWLQJRQVWUHHWSHUIRUPDQFHVIRU &DUQLYDO²EXWWKDWLVXSSHUFUXVWIDPLOLHV HQWHUWDLQLQJWKHSXEOLF0RUHERWWRP XSZHUHWKHSHUIRUPDQFHVRIVDOHVPHQ saltimbanchi, ciarlatani VDOWLPEDQNV FKDUODWDQVRIWHQWZRPHQRUWZRPHQDQG DZRPDQSOD\LQJOLWWOHVNLWVVLQJLQJDQG SOD\LQJDQLQVWUXPHQWGRLQJGDQFHVDQG DFUREDWLFVDQ\WKLQJWRDWWUDFWDFURZGWR ZKRPWKH\FRXOGVHOOWKHLUZDUHVRUWKHLU PHGLFDOVHUYLFHV´ Luca Andrea Casto continues his performance by coaxing a member of the crowd to walk onto a bed of spikes. DERXWFRQFHUWVLQ,WDO\LQEXW'L 3RQLRVD\V³:LWKVXPPHUSHUIRUPDQFHV ZHMXVWFRYHUWKHFRVWVDQGDOLWWOHPRUH´ ³'XULQJWKHZLQWHUZHSOD\LQOLWWOH FOXEVSXEVDQGLQGRRUSODFHV:HDUHDOO SURIHVVLRQDOPXVLFLDQVEXWLQ,WDO\LWLVQRW HQRXJK,WHDFKPXVLFGXULQJWKHZLQWHU´ 'L3RQLRH[SODLQV³,W¶VDKDUGOLIHKRZHYHU ,DPVDWLV¿HGEHFDXVHPXVLFLVDQDFWLYLW\ WKDW,ORYH´ 7LFNHWVDUHDYDLODEOHLQDGYDQFHRQWKH IHVWLYDO¶VZHEVLWHRUPD\EHERXJKWDWWKH HQWUDQFH$OOVLQJOHGD\WLFNHWVDUHXQGHU (XUR7KHUHDUHWUDLQVWR&HUWDOGRXQWLO SPDQGLWLVSRVVLEOHWRGULYHWR&HUWDOGR DERXWDQKRXUIURP)ORUHQFH7KHUHDUH¿YH SDUNLQJORWVIRUWKHIHVWLYDOZLWKVKXWWOHVWR WDNH\RXIURPWKHSDUNLQJORWWRMercantia —Design by Joe Pocs student wanderer 13 EAT. PRAY. COOK. Pier Luigi Campi, executive chef at Ganzo, describes the atmosphere of the restaurant as a gym for students. He explains that only advanced and master chefs can work at Ganzo and it is important to get that “real world” experience outside of the One of Apicius specialties: Ricotta stuffed ravioli with brown butter and sage. “Italians think of food as a way of life rather than a necessity.” -PAUL SALMERI, Ganzo Cultural and Gastronomic Association In Florence, students at Apicius culinary school learn the art of turning simple ingredients into the dynamic dishes Italy is known for. S T O RY AND P H O T O S BY PA M E L A B I R C H A R D 5 o country prides itself on its food more than Italy. People come from all over the world to learn the secrets of traditional Italian cooking. Cooking courses for every level, from beginner to master chef, offer hands-on experience and insight into the culture of traditional dishes. This international interest in tastes, smells and landscapes is blooming. Eat, Pray, Love, the film version of Elisabeth Gilbert’s memoir, premiered summer 2010 and the demand is expected to grow. At Apicius, the only international hospitality school that 14 student wanderer focuses solely on Italian cuisine, beginners delve into their passion and dedicated students transform this passion into a career. Study abroad and internship programs encourage students to learn the true meaning of Italy’s important culinary culture. According to the International Institute of Education, U.S. students studying abroad have increased 150 percent in the last decade. Out of 241,000 in the last academic year, 13.2 percent studied fine arts. In 2007, 27,831 students studied in Italy. The demand for a dive into Italian culture doesn’t stop there. In August 2008, Paul Salmeri, 27, packed his bags and left Australia to immerse himself into the culture at Apicius in Florence. After serving in the military and working in the mining industry, he needed something new, something he really loved. It always came back to Italy and food. He learned how much of their lives revolve around when and what they will eat. “When cooking, you’re always thinking about the next meal,” he said, about why he loves this country and decided to become a dual citizen. After two years in Sicily and then Tuscany, he decided to stay. Salmeri began working at Ganzo Cultural and Gastronomic Association, an affiliate of Apicius, in January 2010, four months before he received his advanced certificate. Its stated mission explains that Ganzo prides itself on the Florentine ideology of art, culture, food, and wine. They want to share their ideas and lifestyle with international visi- Gnocchi with marinara and mozarella. tors who want to understand the city’s significance beneath the tourism surface. Salmeri contributes to the menu, which changes every two weeks and includes four or five dishes for each course. Offerings include homemade pasta with eggplant carbonara, tuna carpaccio, and panna cotta. Students at Apicius get hands-on experience in a fast paced environment. classroom. With an “different than the To learn more open kitchen and a stereotype in the U.S. small working space, with Alfredo sauce, about Apicius students showcase Culinary School visit: and spaghetti and their skills and speed meatballs, which www.apicius.it to the trendy and do not exist here,” or call modern public. Trapini stated. 39.055.265.81.35 Salmeri developed In order to adspeed, organization vance, students must and design. “It’s not pass a “final tasting to just about what you can cook, analyze the dish, the display, the but learning how to utilize your temperature, the smell, the techsenses,” Salmeri said. This experinical characteristics of the dish,” ence would not be possible if it Trapini said. weren’t for the beginning and Out of the 20 regions in Italy, intermediate classroom lessons each one has its own characterthat allow for practice with meats istics. Up until the last 40 years, and pastas. each region used what was avail“Here you have to go, go, go,” able to them, dependent upon Campi said. “If you re good, you climate and landscape. Since then, a revolution and globalization of regional cuisine has helped expand pasta to the north and pizza to the south. Students learn the origins and outside influences of these dishes. The key is in the communication and technology revolutions, as well as better transportation, so Italians can learn and access other regional cuisines. According to Trapini, 90 percent of students who receive the master certificate will work in the field afterwards. “I think it’s important to know who believes in this job, studies and is prepared, [they] will The school teaches students always work,” Trapini said. the use of basic ingredients Graduates of the program like olive oil and balsamic work at top restaurants includvinegar. ing French Laundry in California. These placements help increase can stay on the line.” The kitchen knowledge of Italy’s authentic must be prepared at noon everycuisine internationally. Apicius day for lunch, followed by aperialso offers programs in Wine tivo, a snack, and dinner services. Studies and Hospitality ManageStudents at Apicius can master ment. up to five levels of Italian cuisine, An insight into the simple, yet ranging from one three-hour dynamic, regional and cultural class, a semester or a four-year taste of Italy, Trapini said, gives program. An entry test is required international students “an idea of to place students at the appropriwhat is needed to be a successful ate levels, all specializing in prodchef in our time.” Whether the ucts, creativity and direction. goal is a skillful expertise or an The school builds its classes on introduction into the food and its the basic Italian ingredients of origins, Italy provides the setting olive oil, balsamic vinegar and and traditions any cooking conparmigiano, said Andrea Trapini, noisseur could need. executive chef at the school. “I want to learn as much about They start by teaching classes the business and cuisine as possiof no more than 18 students ble,” Salmeri said. “Italians think flavor combinations, methods of food as a way of life rather of cooking, the seasonality, the than a necessity.” gastronomy, and the tradition, —Design by Maggie Lasley student wanderer 15 0 BY HAZAR ALKHAWAJA t was exceedingly warm and dozens of birds squawked irritatingly overhead. Yellow, maroon, green, orange and terracotta-colored tapestries hung from windows. People occupied seats, high balconies, and roofs, as those less fortunate (like us) were on the cobblestones of the bowl-shaped Piazza del Campo. I was listening to some 90s music, oblivious to my live surroundings, restlessly hoping the race would begin. Only when I became aware of the legs awfully close to me did I decide it was perhaps a great idea to temporarily disregard the music and take a glimpse at what might be happening. A wise decision it was, since I realized the immediate urgency to stand. The previously empty space was swarming with people. I did not understand where they had come from. Before I knew it, I was unable to even move my arms. One could not stretch, or shift positions. I no longer could see my own feet. People were too close to allow for personal comfort. So close, I can tell you the woman in front of me wore a white tank top revealing a small “I must admit, I enjoyed the sudden rush of excitement and the sight of hundreds of people congregating to witness the town’s tradition.” mole on her left shoulder, a tank top with a twelve-point type label for “International Kingston Style.” Or I could tell you the number of grays the curly-haired man had to my right. I could note every wrinkle, every split-end, every stray hair, or even every particle of dust on a person’s clothing. One may think they are swaying and then understand they are doing so unwillingly — simply a result of the crowd of people moving. Another lady next to me was so loud…so close…I was fooled to think her words were my own thoughts, though quite strangely, in Italian. I even thought her sweat was my own, as she frantically seized my shoulders to get a better view of the riders. I had never been so uncomfortable. I wished it would rain. I was informed that the event would be cancelled if that were to happen. We thus would have departed while partially pleased with the experience. I thought of a cold shower, airconditioning, and clean feet. The clock tower. That is where I wanted to be. Far from the crowd. Far from being The flags represent ten of the 17 Contrade, or city wards of Siena. poked, stroked, breathed on and stepped on. Better yet, at Starbucks on a comfortable sofa chatting away about worthless things. At least I had delicious tomato pesto gnocchi for lunch, I had thought. I began to wonder why a bridge was not built to allow those that were movement deprived, toilet deprived and breathing deprived, to exit the area. It would possibly lead one to a roof of a building, where they can gratefully walk down a considerable number of steps. False alarms gave me false hope. Hope that it started and was soon to be over. It was even more frustrating considering “The race itself barely lasted a minute. A minute of being pushed and shoved after hours of waiting.” PHOTOS BY WIKIMEDIA COMMONS we could not see the parade or the race from where we stood. I realized how much I loathed smoking as the three Italians around me lit a cigarette simultaneously. The race itself barely lasted a minute. A minute of being pushed and shoved after hours of waiting. A hundred camera flashes, yells in incomprehensible Italian (except “Bastardo!” which was easily understood), Crowds gather in cramped space to watch Italy’s Il Palio di Siena, or the Palio Horse Race in Siena’s Piazza del Campo. :8<0:/,+ 16 student wanderer IL PALIO DI SIENA The race takes place twice a year and dates back to 1656. Jockeys ride bareback around the Piazza del Campo, with the race only lasting about 90 seconds. The contrada (city ward) who wins the race is presented with the “palio,” a rectangular piece of silk hand painted by an artist for the occasion. and quick glimpses at the rider’s heads, then it was over. Now how do we get out? So, my fellow readers, you may ask if it was worth it to attend Il Palio di Siena. I intended to simply say that you merely missed a stiff neck, the smell of smoke and body sweat, irritated eyes, a cool breeze that comes and goes, the invasion of personal space and the eagerness to stretch (Never have I been so eager to stretch). But I must admit, I enjoyed the sudden rush of excitement and the sight of hundreds of people congregating to witness the town’s tradition. It was great to have been in Siena during such an important event, taking place only biannually. Of course if you would rather avoid the engaging chaos, a number of pictures and videos may suffice, or perhaps invest in some seat tickets. The Palio di Siena definitely redefined the word ‘crowded’. —Design by Cruz Resendiz A student’s experience at Il Palio di Siena, The Palio Horse Race A man is forced into the arena due to the large crowds. student wanderer 17 The surprisingly difficult trek to one of Italy’s most famous nude beaches. painted scenes of nude figures on a beach and assume this must be it. In the pitch-black tunnel there is an intercom with the words “Push here for lights,” so we push. And we push. And nothing happens. “Guvano Beach one kilometer this way” says one sign and our group of four young women begin to have second thoughts about the black abyss before us. Tech-savvy students, we pull out cell phones, no good. Cameras, better but not enough. Finally, someone suggests lighting a fallen stick and with a little courage, we head towards the unknown. One of my companions wants to turn back, but I offer to lead the way with the LCD screen on the back of my camera. I drop the now-useless stick and we stay to the left and We heard a loud noise coming towards us, like a train or a truck, and I had the sudden urge to bolt. HIKING TO THE ELUSIVE GUVANO BEACH STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHRISTEN CALLOWAY ‘ Manarola only has rocks, but it is very popular for sunbathing,” explains Ricardo Vernazzari, who works at the green hostel, Ostello Cinque Terre, perched on a hillside in Manarola. “The only sandy beach is in Monterosso.” That simply won’t work and I am determined to find the magical cove I read about in guidebooks. When I specifically asked Vernazzari about the hidden Guvano Beach, he was more forthcoming: “Take the path toward Corniglia. You will need a ticket.” We round the corner to find a tunnel with painted scenes of nude figures on a beach and assume this must be it. Guvano Beach is the only “clothing optional” beach in Cinque Terre and when I found photos of Guvano on Google, I was captivated by peacefulness of the jagged cliffs jutting out of the turquoise Mediterranean. Cinque Terre means “five lands.” The villages that make up the lands are, from south to north, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, 18 student wanderer Vernazza and Monterosso and are all connected by two hiking paths: the red high path and the blue coastal path. We opt for the less-challenging coastal path. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Cinque Terre has been restored and preserved in large part because of fees hikers pay to walk the often steep and rugged pathways that connect the five villages. Although not entirely car-free, the villages are remarkably clean and unspoiled. Visitors can buy hiking passes for both the red high path and blue coastal path at stores attached to the railroad stations, and can take a train back if winded by a one-way hike. Hiking routes have huts with a paid employee to check passes, if you have none you can buy them there. With the sun glaring, we walk the flat path toward Corniglia for 45 minutes, and stumble upon hand-carved maps showing us stairs and the tunnel to Guvano, plus areas under construction. We pound up the stairs past where the path is closed and continue north to the foot of the steps to Corniglia, a dead end. Confused as to where the path continues, we find stairs leading to a small house and a gate leading to beaches below. A woman and her daughter appear with a key to the gate and I yell “Mi Scusi!” be- fore they disappear down the cliff. In broken Italian I ask where Guvano Beach is and she smiles and says “Oh! Guvano!” and gestures to go around the corner of the house and I interpret her next movements as button pushing, and she says “Light? Bzzz Bzzz.” We round the corner to find a tunnel with AN OMINOUS ENTRANCE The entrance to the Guvano beach is dark and slightly foreboding for tourists who don’t know to bring flashlights. walk slowly on the sidewalk of the cavernous tunnel. Every step, incline, and slippery spot we shout “STEP!” to warn the girl behind us so she doesn’t trip. The tunnel takes a curve and we are suddenly in a darkness I had never experienced. The tunnel feels endless and we can’t walk fast enough. We imagine what kinds of creatures lurk in the blackness. I block the terrifying thoughts of bats and focus on the ground before me. It is cool and wet, and the girls wearing flip-flops call it muddy and slimy. FREE AT LAST After much anxiety, the light at the end of the tunnel is found, literally, as hikers are welcomed by the beauty of the beach. We hear a loud noise coming towards us, like a train or a truck, and I have the sudden urge to bolt. We stop and stare into the abyss like soon-to-be roadkill and the train in the tunnel next to us passes and we timidly trudge on. We come around a bend and see a tiny light, our pace quickens, and the light at the end gets closer and closer, then we hear footsteps behind us. I’m terrified that someone is coming to mug us, but it is two other beach goers who came prepared with flashlights. The tunnel opens up to an oasis of trees and a clearly marked gravel path. We pass three men at a table under an umbrella, half expecting to pay them a fee to use the beach, but no one stops us and the beach is free. A couple from Atlanta asks how we managed the tunnel with only our cameras and we ask about their flashlights. One of the men asks how we found out about this nude beach. After I tell him about the guidebooks I read, a stark naked man with no shoes walks leisurely past, smoking a cigarette. We giggle for a moment about the man’s nudity and get it out of our system. We look down the rockslide below, “Is that the only way down?” my friends ask. I try to calm their nerves and tell them I have done this before and give tips on how to make it down the scary slope. As we begin our descent, one of the gentlemen from Atlanta offers to help us down; I say I can handle it and ask him to help my companions. I nearly fall all the way down the steep slope when a rock underfoot gives way and sends me sliding on my butt for about a meter before I come to a stop. I gain my composure and finally make it down to the elusive Guvano Beach. I pause and gawk at the paradise before me. Once all of us are on solid ground we strip down to our swimsuits and sprint into the turquoise sea after working up a sweat on our hike. It is perfect, the water is refreshing but not cold. The large pebble beach lay out before us with only four pairs of people lounging in the sun; it is our near-private oasis. We swim out to where the salty sea turns royal blue and yell, “You can see straight to the bottom!” We high-five and congratulate each other on making it through the adventure. We float in the ocean and stare at the green terraced vineyards above and the black cliffs that surrounded us. —Design by Blair Mishleau GET MORE: See video of the breathtaking Guvano beach, check out more photos and learn more about other beaches (nude and clothed) around Italy on our website, vj.blairblur.com. GET NAKED IN ITALY! Italy has quite a few more nude beaches than one would think. Check out some of the most popular below. 3. Milan Venice 1. 5. Florence Ligurian Sea Adriatic Sea 4. Rome 2. SARDINIA Tyrrhenian Sea Ionian Sea N Palermo Mediterranean Sea Source WORLD ATLAS SICILY BLAIR MISHLEAU 1.) Bassona Beach, Emilia-Romagna – This beach is Italy’s largest nude beach at 1km long, and is one part of the 3km-long Lido di Dante south of Ravenna. Nudism has been practiced here for ages, and has been legal (at least according to local officials) since 2002. Free admission. 2.) Capocotta Beach, Lazio – This beach isn’t far from Rome, and there’s a dedicated nude beach section that’s about 250 meters long. The whole beach is part of an official nature reserve, and nudists have been baring everything on this beach for more than 30 years. It wasn’t until 2000 that local officials set aside the special section for naturists, however. Free admission, chairs & umbrellas available, showers, bar/ restaurant, public toilets. 3.) Lido di Venezia, Veneto – This stretch of beautiful sand sits on an island not far from Venice’s romantic canals. Free admission. 4.) Portonovo, Le Marche – One section of the beach in the town of Portonovo is designated as a nude beach. It’s a secluded part that’s hidden behind a 19th-century brick tower. Free admission. 5.) Bibbona Beach, Tuscany – The south side of the Marina di Bibbona in Livorno is a dedicated naturist beach, which you’ll find if you just get to the beach and start walking south. 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The child’s movement is no match for the stylist’s deft hands. Photos taken from video courtesy OF ANGEL WILLIAMSON 20 student wanderer student wanderer 21 SATURDAY NIGHT IN CINQUE TERRE In a place far, far away the illumina- tion of lights mes- merizes and the beats pound hard making muscles irresistible to move to the rhythm. A mix of people, tourists, locals, children, teens and even adults gather at Cinque Terre to get their dance on at the weekly Sat- urday night disco. Some just move, some observe and VRPH¿QGORYH 22 2 student studentwanderer wanderer BY KRYSTA HAMANN 9 MILAN esting just off Italy’s northern tip Cinque Terre the Cinque Terre is a peaceful getLa Spezia away. Composed Monterosso FLORENCE Vernazza of five cities, the beautiful terriCorniglia Manarola tory is a local tourist attraction. Riomaggiore With endless places to eat, beautiful beaches to soak up the sun ROME and miles of hiking trails, there is something to do for everyone. But it is not just the mainSARDINIA stream attractions that bring in the tourists. The terrific seafood, well noted wines and famous artichokes also add to the beautiful destination. HOW TO GET THERE: Daytime activities such as boat Q Take the Cinque Terre regional rides, soccer games, bacci ball train line all the way to Monterosso. and bike rides also seem to be Q Walk through the tunnel to Old tourist favorites, or perhaps just a Town and go by the water. SICILY lovely day relaxing on the beach. Q The free disco is only on Saturday After the sun sets and nightnights and starts at dusk. time rolls around, the nightlife in Monterosso starts to pick up. The energy level switches to a higher tains. The sidewalk that was ear- Lots of music that is popular in gear as people are ready to start lier used for transportation for Italy and all over the world,” he their evening. hikers turns into a smooth dance said. Several bars have happy hour floor. With the backdrop of the The loud music can be heard with drink specials and the moonlit sea and a scenic view on either side of the walking streets are full of people scram- of the mountains, the disc jock- tunnel that connects New Town bling to find something to eat eys strobe and lasers light up the to Old Town. Music ranges from or any type of entertainment for area drawing in all those curious the “Grease” soundtrack, Amerithe evening. But off the beaten tourists into the after dark dance ca’s Top 40 hits, the Spanish chapath, (below the walking tunnel party. cha slide, to a wide variety of and right along the bay in Old A local resident of La Spezia, Italian music. It really does not Town,) there is an outside disco 17-year-old Luca Icardi, stays in matter where you are from as every Saturday night. It attracts Monterosso during the summers. long as you just dance. what seems to be hundreds of Icardi thinks that the music is The dancers don’t seem to people. The three local disc jock- what draws in the crowd. “Peo- mind either. Looking around, eys set up their turntables right ple of every age come because nothing but grooving, smiling in front of the sculptured moun- there is a lot of music played. faces move to the beat. They all “People of every age come because there is a lot of music played. Lots of music that is popular in Italy and all over the world.” —LUCA ICARDI, local resident of La Spezia have one thing in common — music. Even if you’re not dancing, you may find yourself on the outskirts of the dance floor sitting on a bench watching these characters as the rhythmic beats take over their souls. The image of young children running in circles around their parents raise their hands in the air, with a smile from ear to ear. Kelly Peddycord, a 31-yearold tourist from Canada, says that dancing isn’t her thing, but she loves the entertainment. “Watching all these people dance to the same music is very funny,” she said. “I could sit here all night and just people watch and listen to the good selection of music.” The outside disco attracts all different types of people. From families with young children, teenagers hanging out on a Saturday night, to elderly couples on a weekend getaway. Regardless of his or her age, race, ethnicity or reason to be there, this free event brings together everyone. A friend of Icardi, 22-year-old Luca Badteni, says that he loves coming to the disco. “I come here to find girls. I like to dance and want to find a girlfriend that likes to dance too,” he said. So whether it’s to partake in the jitterbug, watch from afar, or perhaps even find love, Monterosso’s free Saturday night disco has something to offer for everyone. —Design by Alexandra Sequenz student studentwanderer wanderer 23 3 Carnival masks and Murano glass artifacts are only some of the beautiful artwork that Venetians produce. BROOKE CURRIER Gondolas ready for a passenger trip through the canal BROOKE CURRIER Venice sights you can’t leave without seeing BY BROOKE CURRIER AND HAZAR ALKHAWAJA VENICE Ad FLORENCE Ligurian Sea I Murano Island is just a short water taxi ride through Venice MILAN ri at ic S ea ROME Tyrrhenian Sea SARDINIA Ionian Sea Mediterranean Sea Source WORLD ATLAS JENNIFER PARTYNSKI PALERMO SICILY WDO\ LV JHQHUDOO\ IDPRXV IRU LWV SL]]D SDVWD DQG OHDWKHU 1RW D PHQX LQ WKH FRXQWU\ ZLOOIDLOWRKDYHDZLGHVHOHFWLRQ RISL]]DVDQGSDVWDVDQGQRUZLOO there be a cobblestone street- FRUQHUWKDWLVOHDWKHUVWRUHGH¿- FLHQW7RXULVWVH[SHFWWRVWXPEOH upon a beautiful leather purse IULHQGVZLOOHQY\RUHDWWKDWODVD- gna later to be described as the ¿QHVW DQG PRVW PRXWKZDWHULQJ ODVDJQDWKH\KDYHHYHUWDVWHG 7KRXJK WKRVH DUH FRPPRQO\ DWWULEXWHG WR ,WDO\ DV D ZKROH 9HQLFH FRPSOHWHO\ SRVVHVVHV VSHFLDOWLHVRILWVRZQ,WLVXQLTXH LQZKDWLWKDVWRRIIHUDQGZKDW KDV WR RIIHU EHFRPHV TXLWH HYL- GHQWZLWKDPHUHYLVLW ,QLWLDOO\ RQH LV VZHSW ZLWK 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Expect hot weather in Florence, but you’ll need to cover yourselves when visiting churches. Not so much at the beach! Annye next to Tower of Pisa Hazar and Brooke in a cooking class making pizza Caren, Jovana, Angel, Brooke, Teresa, Hazar, Emily, Krysta and Annye in Florence The Grand Canal in Venice, photographed on a weekend trip sponsored by Istituto Lorenzo de’ Medici Students stay in furnished apartments on historic streets in the center of Florence, close to churches, markets, museums, restaurants and shopping La Nazione reporter Francesca Kallye gives story advice to 2010 Travel Writing students, from the left, Ashley McHale, Christen Calloway, Kim Manning and Pamela Birchard ABOVE Annye and Krysta peeling basil leaves. RIGHT Brooke with flag at Palio in Sienna ;YH]LS>YP[PUNPU-SVYLUJL HUL_WLYPLUJLVMHSPML[PTL Columbia College Chicago partners with Istituto Lorenzo de’ Medici each July to offer courses in Italy. The Journalism Department conducted Travel Writing: Florence, taught by Teresa Puente in 2009 and by Nancy Day in 2010. The Wanderer magazine shows you a sample of their students’ work. This summer, Puente returns to teach Introduction to Fashion Journalism, based in Florence, with side trips to Milan, Venice and Rome. 26 student wanderer TOP The Scuola del Cuoio, started by Franciscan monks to teach fine Florentine leather making, is behind the Santa Croce Church. LEFT Pam, Ashley, Christen and Kim study oenology at the Tuscan Wine School in Sienna For more stories an photos visit ottimotuscany.blogspot.com student wanderer 27 Explore the world with us. For more information, contact the Journalism department, 33 E. Congress, Chicago, Illinois 60605 or call 312.369.8900
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