1. sports
2. climbing

Alec Burns
On The Figurehead
Northumbrian Mountaineering Club
Supplement
Bob Smith
A series of downloadable PDF guides to new bouldering venues , problems, highballs and routes in Northumberland. Including:
The Stell
Whiteheugh
Raven’s Crag
Caller Crag , Corby’s and Edlingham
Greensheen Hill
Parkside Wood
The Maiden Chambers Area
St Cuthbert’s Cave
The Bowden Area
The Wanneys Group
Beanly Moor and Hunterheugh
Blakey’s Block
Cockenheugh
Kyloe Out
Rothley
The Ravensheugh Area
Banno Crags
Titlington and the Turban
South Yardhope
Brady’s Crag
Coquet View
Shitlington
Lookwide
Howlerhirst
High Crag
NMC
Northumbrian
Mountaineering
Club
The Stell—A Bouldering Guide
Part One
...Northumberland Bouldering
Introduction...
TECHNICAL NOTES
BOULDERING GRADES
The location of each crag is indicated by its Grid Reference.
It is true to say that there are only two grades, the problems and routes you can do, and those you
can’t. To the keen boulderer however it soon becomes apparent that this can be sub divided into the
problems you can do and your mates can’t, and vice versa! Grading boulder problems (and some
routes) is an almost impossible task. The table below is a rough comparison of the common systems
in use. Visitors to the County will probably find that until they get used to the style of the problems
and the intricacies of climbing on the County’s various Sandstones that the accuracy of the table will
be questionable. Grades are an art rather than a science, and while difficulty is central to bouldering ,
it is easily confused with quality. The pursuit of which is an equally rewarding endeavour.
Maps
The County is covered by six Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 maps. Sheets 74 (Kelso), 75 (Berwick upon
Tweed), 80 (The Cheviot Hills), 81 (Alnwick and Rothbury), 87 (Hexham and Haltwhistle) and 88
(Tyneside). The majority of the crags lie on sheets 75 and 81.
General
On occasions the problems are referenced to routes that are not described in the climbing guide, or
in the second edition bouldering guide. These are highlighted in blue italics. You may need these
guides or to ask a local climber help you locate the problems.
Sit Starts
Most problems are written up as standing starts off one mat only! Generally sit starts are added at
the end of a description where they add either to the difficulty, or quality . Only rarely will a sit start
be separately named.
Rules
It has long been understood in Northumberland that if a twig is found on a ‘good’ foothold, then the
foothold is out of bounds. The same applies to bedding planes , ledges and footholds in contact with
the ground. Usually these are out of bounds. The previous guide wisely suggested that if you are
wondering if the foothold is in, then it probably is not!
Further Information
The NMC website has a variety of resources relating to climbing in the County. If you have this PDF
you’ve probably found it already. Otherwise go to: www.thenmc.org.uk
New Problems
Descriptions of new problems and routes should be sent to newroutes @thenmc.org.uk. A description, grade, date and name of first ascentionist should be included. A photo with a line marking the
route would also help.
Bob Smith
Greensheen Slopers Traverse
Greensheen Hill
Photo: Steve Blake
The various grading systems are well understood, and like grades
are an ongoing source of debate regarding their respective merits.
In these PDF guides we have retained the Font grades introduced
in the last guidebook and their use is now established and understood.
FONT
UK TECH
V GRADE
3
4c
VB
4
5a
V0
Highballs
The height of many crags in the County lends them to a highball
approach. Mats can reduce the consequences when highballing
goes wrong, but there comes a point when they look very small.
Many of these ‘problems’ would have been considered small
routes not long back, (though some in this new series are not so
small) and occasionally are compounded with bad landings. Falling off them should not be treated casually. While it should be
self evident those that fall into this category get an (H) symbol
indicating the potential Highball, Helicopter and Hospital factor.
Be careful!
4+
5b
5
5+
V1
5c
6a
6a+
V2
6a
V3
6b
6b+
6c
V4
6b
V5
6c+
Steve Blake
7a
Shitlington Wall
7a+
Shitlington
7b
Photo: Alec Burns
V6
6c
V7
7b+
V8
7c
V9
7c+
V10
8a
7a
8a+
8b
8b
V11
V12
7b
V13
V14
...Northumberland Bouldering
Introduction...
without beating it into submission. We need to have enough humility to understand that the rock’s
needs are more important than our egos. Learn to walk away and come back when you’re capable.
SUSTAINABILITY
The quality and durability of Sandstone in Northumberland varies significantly both on and between crags. Iron hard rock with a case hardened patina can coexist with a super soft cheesy
substance soft enough to be shaped by hand.
Sadly there is much evidence that the tough patina when worn away reveals a soft inner that rapidly erodes. There are many examples, but Vienna at Bowden Doors is probably the most famous
example, which in it’s current deplorable state is
a much easier and sad shadow of the original .
3. Be gentle with brushwork, and minimal with your chalk. Climbing indoors we can brush the
holds to our hearts content, outdoors the effect can be catastrophic.
4.
Poor footwork also impacts, clean your shoes before you begin an attempt. Modern shoes
allow a huge amount of force to be exerted through the feet , twisting on smears has a grinding
effect that speeds up erosion. Be aware, use good footwork and tread lightly.
5.
Don’t use the problems for training, running laps may look cool, but do it indoors on plastic,
not on the rock.
6.
Take your junk home, don’t light fires, leave gates open, If you must, learn how to shit in the
woods. Do not be generally antisocial.
Over the last thirty years the popularity of Rock
Climbing and Bouldering has accelerated and
there is much similar evidence of our impact on
the crags. Routes and problems on Sandstone,
(especially that which can be as fragile as ours),
are a finite resource and need careful and sensitive protection if they are to survive.
It is worth repeating that you should not climb on
sandstone when there is any evidence of dampness. The rock becomes significantly weaker losing it’s bonding when damp, and is susceptible to
accelerated erosion and breakage. Once a break
occurs, or the outer patina is penetrated then
the effects of erosion are exponential.
David Murray
On Barnaby Rudge
The Good Book Section, The Stell.
Alec Burns collection
Vienna
Bowden Doors
Many magnificent routes in Northumberland have escaped significant damage, principally because the habit
of top roping hard routes has not been adopted as
readily as elsewhere. Bouldering however, is a particularly intensive game which can see a team cycling
through repeated attempts on a problem, brushing and
ragging between each effort. The impact of this can be
seen on relatively recent problems on which holds are
already bleaching out., and this is on rock thought of as
hard.
We are the stewards of these places. There are many
things we can do to minimise our direct impact on
them
1. Everyone should acknowledge and understand the
fragility of the medium and learn to walk away if there
is any suggestion of dampness and the rock is not in
condition.
2. Set yourself a realistic number of attempts at a
problem, if you can’t do it, leave it until you can do it
The Stell
...The Stell
OS Map Sheet OL42 : GR 064061
Altitude: 213m
Right of Access Under CROW
Alnwick
Aspect: North West Facing
Approach: 15 Minutes
LOCATION AND CHARACTER
Rothbury
The crag is located on Debdon Moor, approximately 1.5 miles North of Rothbury, A market town
North West of Morpeth, and South West of Alnwick. Rothbury and it’s environs are shown on OS
MAP Sheet 81 and the 1:25,000 sheet OL42 at GR 064061.
A697
A1
The crag is approximately 120m long and faces North West. It catches the afternoon and evening
sun in the Summer. It is exposed and doesn’t carry much drainage. As such it dries out quickly. This
also means that if the wind is blowing from the West then you will feel it.
The crag is on Access Land and climbers have a right of access to the crags. However the moor has
signs of being a managed shoot. It is possible that applications for temporary closure could be applied for. These would have to be agreed by Natural England and posted on the Access Land web
site. This can be found at www.openaccess.naturalengland.org.uk.
Morpeth
The diagrams opposite should be sufficient to get the newcomer to the area to the crag.
The rock is good quality, blocky fell sandstone. It has undoubtedly been quarried
in antiquity the problems range in difficulty from 5+ through to 8b. There are both
highballs and problems of a more modest height, and many will test your mantling technique to complete them in good
style. Despite having been climbed on
since 2008 some problems are showing
signs of wear. The large side hold of
Stuck In The Middle is already taking a
beating. Please tread lightly.
B6341
Steve Blake
On The Joker
Rothbury
Approach
B6341
Parking is available in the Debdon Forest pullout on the West side of the Rothbury/Alnwick road
(B6341) Please do not block either the access to the forestry yard, or the main track which provides
access for farms on Debdon Moor.
The crag is a 15 minute walk from the parking. Follow the track West, and once through the gate follow another track North. This passes through a small quarry and then a Birch wood. Once clear of the
wood, strike North across the moor, passing to the right of the power pole. The crag can’t be seen but
will be reached in five minutes. A variety of quad and sheep tracks cross the moor. Note it is prone to
being boggy, but a wet hike does not necessarily mean the crag will be damp.
P
...The Stell
Introduction...
HISTORY
The Left Hand Section
The crag was discovered in 2008 by Steve Blake as part of his ongoing forensic exploration of the
County’s undiscovered crags. It was a surprising discovery given the crag is marked on the map and
can be seen from the Carriage Walk, a popular ramble to the West of Debdon Moor. It’s discovery is
all the more fortuitous given Steve almost turned back when nothing could be seen on the first approach.
Matterhorn Block
Last & First
Blocky Block
Development by Steve and the Back in the Day team followed pretty promptly Blake snapped up the
highball lines on the pinnacle and several shorter problems on the rest of the crag. These lines were
either cleaned on the go or with a very long cleaning brush! They are all excellent. Bob Smith, Alec
Burns, Ian and David Murray, and John Earl all got in on the act. Bob’s Wandering Minstrel traverse
being notable, as is the mantle problem on the Blocky Block. Martin Waugh eventually subdued the
steep Doctors Orders and Chris Sowden, a Yorkshire visitor, nipped in to claim the steep Sowden’s
Roof.
Chris Graham visited and added a characteristically hard and direct start to Stuck in the Middle, while
Dan Varian was made aware of the crag after a Mark Savage photo shoot. After a number of visits
Dan’s steely fingers established Great Expectations, (the hardest problem on the crag) . He or Aido
Holt climbed the slopers and mantle to the left of Stuck’s (very) direct start thus adding a very hard
and direct start to the Clown on the pinnacle . There may be others yet to do but they will undoubtedly be very hard and very eliminate in their nature.
The Centre
The Neb
Wandering Minstrel
Great Expectations
The crag is described from Left to Right. Key features are the Blocky Block, the Matterhorn Block, the
Neb, the Great Expectations Block, Moby Dick and the West Wall.
The Right Hand Section
Great Expectations
Moby Dick
Steve Blake
Making use of his span.
Stuck in the Middle.
Bob Smith
The Doldrums
West Wall
The Stell...
….Last & First Section
Last & First Section…
...The Stell
7
3
1
4
2
4.
1.
First and Last
6a BS
Directly up the centre of the wall.
5.
2. Easy Wall
SS Get established on the wall and
drift left to go up the blunt rib.
Misnamed, it’s not easy! A tricky move with poor footholds leads to a large hold and easier climbing
to the top.
3.
The Man from the Ministry 6c BS
SS The scooped wall, then up and left, quite awkward. Start with your left hand on cripms and your
right on the arête. Pull on and work your right hand up the arête until the left reached the quartz
holds up and left
6
The Wee Man 6c BS?
The wall at the far left hand edge of the crag
6b NK
5
6.
The Little Leaner 6B+ BS
Sowders
6b+ CS
SS Pull up the blunt arête and continue by an obvious horizontal sloper.
7.
Spanman 7a
MW
SS Start as for Sowders, but span
right to the obvious slot on the right.
Continue up the right edge (left of the
crack)
Bob Smith
On The Little Leaner
Bob Smith collection
The Stell…
...Last & First Section
The Blocky Bloc…
...The Stell
7
9
6
6.
Sowders Arete
13
8
10
11
12
6b+ CS
Sit Start . The blunt arête which is climbed
on good crimps and reaches to a rounded
finish.
The Tank Block
7.
Sit Start . Clamp the blunt arête, pull on and pivot left, palming along the top edge
Spanman 6c
MW
Sit Start. A difficult eliminate. Start as for
Sowders then span, crimp, udge or squirm
up and right to
the slot
8.
The Flapper
6c
CS
Sit Start. From the obvious hold pull out
and left, reach up to the sloping finger rail
up right and then the sloping finish.
9.
Bubble Goose
10.
7b+ DV
Sit Start. Climbs the right side of the nose.
The right wall is (obviously) out.
11.
The Tank Arete
The Tank Groove
6b+ BS
6c BS
Sit Start. Layaway up the quartz dyke to a standing position—simple1
Chris Sowden
12.
On The Flapper
An outrageous mantle up the centre of the bloc should be straightforward, but isn’t!
Bob Smith collection
13.
Too hard for Blakey
7a? BS
Box Arete 6b+ ?
Sit Start. Clamp the box like arête and mantle onto the tank.
The Stell…
...The Matterhorn
The Matterhorn…
...The Stell
a
a
14
b
14
15
18
16
16
17
The Matterhorn Pinnacle.
18a
18
These lines are all quite highball— Thankfully there is a good jug at the top which allows you to
compose yourself for stepping down and across the gap. The variations around Stuck in the Middle are
all fun and some pretty hard!
14.
Crevasse Wall
6b
SB
Up the wall of the crevasse using the right arête.
15.
Left Edge 6b
SB
Up the slab using the left arête.
16a. Eliminate A
6b
SB
Up the slab, no left arête and no sneaking over to the pocket on the right.
16b. The Clown 6a+ (E1 5B) SB
The first route on the pinnacle. Traverse diagonally rightwards until a two finger pocket for the right
hand allows the arête to be reached. Up this to a jug at the top.
17.
Clown Sloper Start 7b (Or more!) DV or AH
Sit Start. From the pocket reach over the lip to slopers on the slab. An improbable mantle (or Magic
Carpet takes you onto the slab.
18a
21
19 20
The Matterhorn Pinnacle.
18.
Stuck in the Middle — Left (Direct) Start 7b+ CG
Sit Start. Using the layaway edge, muscle up to the bump over the lip, and then layaway over the
lip. Rock over onto and into the slab micro groove, continue.
18a. Stuck in the Middle — Sit Start
7b
SB
Sit Start. Using the obvious layaway edge, muscle up to the bump, pop right and right again.
Compress and hook leftward into the micro groove. Continue. (The Stand Start clamping the aretes is
7a.)
19.
The Joker to the Right.
6c
SB
Up the centre of the wall until the upper arête is reached, Monkey up this to the top.
20.
Chessica Rabbit.
7c
DV
Sit start as for 18, but use small crimps to drift up and right to the upper right hand arête.
21.
The Gully Wall. 6b+ SB
Sit Start. Clamp the back facet until a pull around to the right can be made, which leads to the arête
and top.
It is possible to girdle the pinnacle, figure it out for yourself………...