Download Report

Junk
Levi’s® Made & Crafted ™ with JUNK
— s/S 2015
When we were asked to collaborate
with Levi’s® Made & Crafted ™
to tell the story of their Spring/
Summer 2015 Collection, the
principles of Junk knew that, based
on our mission to document art,
fashion, and style through the prism
of Los Angeles, we could illustrate the
subtle connection between the everchanging street art of the city and
its wide-ranging topography, which
was the inspiration for this season’s
Collection. One person’s creation —
tagged, drawn, or painted — is often
covered up by another person’s work,
a promotional poster, or Post-No-Bills
warning, which in turn creates a cutup, collage-inspired outcome that is
an unexpected take on the Surrealists’
exquisite corpse technique. This publication is our collaborative
effort to capture Southern California’s
sprawling topography — the thirty-mile
zone as it were — which is very often
defined by neighborhoods intrinsic
to Los Angeles, or what comedian
Mort Sahl famously called “a hundred
suburbs looking for a city.” — JUNK
Contents
4.
10.
22.
28.
34.
46.
58.
64.
JUNK would like to thank:
JUNK was co-founded by Lucy Rose,
Imogene Barron, and Brian Roettinger.
Their headquarters are located in
Los Angeles.
Levi Strauss invented the simple blue
jean that would forever change the
way America, and the rest of the world,
dressed: Levi’s® Made & Crafted ™
builds on this legacy by designing
tomorrow’s classics using today’s best
materials and construction techniques.
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Ben Starmer, Matt Wright, Raul Mendoza,
Tatiana Lëshkina, Erik Hart, JC Gabel,
Sandy Kim, Todd Jordan, Sarah Soquel
Morhaim, Osma Harvilahti, Cali Thornhill
Dewitt, Aaron Curry, Mary Pearson
Andrew, Aaron Rose, Julian Gross, Nina
Sers, Carson Salter, Rosson Crow, Darren
Romanelli, Juju Sorelli, Arty Nelson,
Daniel Desure, Brad Elterman, Ben
Baretto, Uncle Vic, Caitlin Talijancich,
Trudy Nelson, and Isaiah Teofilo
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86.
98.
Progressive
Modern Expression
Basin of the City
Artist Profile: Aaron Curry,
Monuments of Color
556 West Colorado Blvd.
Located in Los Angeles
Neighborhood to
Neighborhood
498 West 5th Street
between Hill and Olive
2128 East 7th Street
near the L.A. River
Reverse Introduction
Sense of Place
Destination Unknown: How to
Navigate an Urban
Landscape
A Conversation:
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Progressive
A Conversation
Modern
Expression
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——What are your names, and what
do you do?
We are Nick Rendic and Nicolle Arbour,
and we lead Design for the Levi’s®
Made & Crafted™ collection.
——W
hen you find a theme for a
range, how does it then influence
the individual pieces? Can you see
a direct translation, or is it more
subjective?
Well, the “theme” always starts as
one topic, but then we abstract that
as much as possible, really tearing it
apart, so that you only see an overall
tone, a feeling. The theme always
influences our color, pattern, fit, finish,
and fabric direction. Some themes are
more easily translated through one or
all of these things. Others are more
subjective or subtle. But it’s rarely, if
ever, a literal translation. If you hadn’t
been told, you probably wouldn’t know.
Levi’s® Made & Crafted™ process sketchbook.
——What is the philosophy behind
Made & Crafted?
Made & Crafted™ represents the
progressive, modern expression of the
Levi’s® Brand with exceptional fabrics,
advanced construction details, and a
progressive fit portfolio. Always rooted
in our denim legacy, the Made &
Crafted collection allows us to extend
beyond our heritage and look to what
Levi’s can be in the here and now, and
maybe even in the future.
——What is your design process? Are
there specific steps involved?
We keep it fairly organic. It all starts
from a feeling we have about where
things are going. It can be a look, a
place, a region, an attitude… pretty
much anything. We then explore that
(whatever that is) voraciously. When
we feel we have what we need, we
begin to design the collection.
Levi’s ® Made & CrafteD™
Classic Tee texture in White/Golden Brown.
——You have said that the process of
removal was an inspiration for this
collection?
Yes, for this collection we looked
at how street art is removed from
buildings and walls around the world.
But the application of the artwork
was certainly an inspiration as well;
so it was about the back and forth,
the process to do and undo. These
processes create patterns, and those
patterns make their way into this
collection.
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obsessive desire for what they do.
This could be anyone, from an artist
to a mechanic to an architect to an
arborist. We are inspired by people
who absolutely care about what they
are doing and do it for the love of it.
Typically, these personalities are not
concerned with the latest flash, but
rather invest more in less, and connect
with that investment in a thoughtful
and deep way.
Sense of Place, photographic backdrops.
——How do you approach an entire
collection versus designing the
individual pieces?
We approach designing a collection
like a director approaches a play. We
figure out what look will be the hero.
We imagine who the lead actor is, and
what categories are the supporting
characters, then build the narrative
through the product detail.
——What is your favorite piece from
the collection and why?
We really love to use our classic Levi’s
styles as a starting point or conduit
to develop links to the themes, and to
anchor the concept that we’re working
on. This season it was great to take our
classic trucker jackets (type II & III)
and push them a bit further.
——Do you design for specific people
in mind? If so, who? And where
are they?
Of course! But they aren’t just one
person or group. They’re everywhere,
anywhere, really. It’s cliché but it’s
true. We like to go places and meet
people who have an authentic,
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Levi’s ® Made & Crafted ™
——How do those conversations inspire
the collection?
Well, we approach the design process
with the very same mindset. We work
with all of these amazing fabrics and
use tailored construction techniques
that impart luxury in subtle ways. You
may not notice it at first, but when
you turn the garment inside out, you
see the difference, you can see why
you don’t feel that seam on your
forearm, or why this part of the shirt
drapes the way it does. These are
the small things that we notice, and
we believe the people that wear the
collection notice too.
——This is the third season that
you have collaborated with a
magazine to create a lookbook.
Why do these collaborations?
These lookbook collaborations are
such an amazing opportunity to work
with incredible creative talents outside
our small denim and fashion world.
Through these we are able to see
the vision of the seasonal story and
inspiration through yet another lens of
trusted friends.
Basin of the City, photographic backdrops.
The end result is hopefully something
more than a lookbook; it’s an artifact
you can put on your coffee table,
and connect with on a deeper level.
Not just pretty pictures of jeans, but
thoughts and images about the world
we live in. It is an absolute honor to
work with Brian, Lucy, Imogene, and
the JUNK family this season.
Levi’s Type II Jacket, Circa 1953
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of
Basin
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Photography by HART+LËSHKINA
City
The natural light in Los Angeles, sometimes couched in the basin of the city, emits a hazy glow, which is often enhanced by the strength of the Santa Ana winds.
t
h
e
Ajak wears Sleeveless
Trucker in Ecru Denim,
Pins jeans in Vanilla.
Ajak wears Sleeveless
Trucker in Ecru Denim,
Pins jeans in Vanilla
Harry wears Tech Bomber
in Camel, Classic Shirt in
Gingham Camo, Tack jean
in Selvedge Rigid 14oz.
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Ajak wears Football dress
in Black.
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Harry wears Utility Coat
Patioc re tem
in Chambray, One Pocket
conem crissimilla
Shirt in Grey Dobby, Tack
nos Ad iu es? Patus
jean in Selvedge Rigid 14oz.
Ajak wears Sleeveless
Off Road Jacket in
Black, Sleeveless Tee
in White, Empire jean
in Pavement.
viu int? Ipionte
inve, nonsult
oridiusperum quam
nos po
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Harry wears
Classic Tee
Patioc
re tem
in White/Golden
Brown,
conem
crissimilla
Needle
in Rap.
nos
Ad jean
iu es?
Patus
viu int? Ipionte
inve, nonsult
oridiusperum quam
nos po
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Ajak wears Sleeveless
Off Road Jacket in
Black, Sleeveless Tee
in White, Empire jean
in Pavement.
Stylist: Imogene Barron
Hair: Ramsell Martinez (Streeters) using Oribe
Makeup: Sandy Ganzer (Jed Root) using Mac Cosmetics
Models: Harry Hains (Ford), Ajak Deng (IMG)
Stylist’s Assistants: Isaiah Teofilo and Trudy Nelson
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Aaron
Curry
TBD (Tri-Color Splat Strokes Sculpture), 2013. Ink, silkscreen and spray paint on wood with silkscreen on cardboard and wood base 122 × 42 × 45 inches (310 × 106.5 × 114 cm)
The kinds of materials used
by Aaron Curry to construct,
paint, and sculpt his lively
works are well suited to his
art, and to his past life as
a skateboarder — bright
paints, plywood, cardboard,
twine, aluminum, posters.
They are simple tools
transformed by Curry into
vibrant multidimensional
figures, electrified by
color and animation, and
resembling a mad artist’s
drawings come to life.
An incurable doodler, Curry
sketches his work largely at
home in LA’s Beachwood
Canyon neighborhood, one
of three work spaces he
maintains in the city. He
keeps a second studio in
the Warehouse District of
Los Angeles, where he works
with wood, and a third in
East L.A., a space he utilizes
strictly for works on paper. Curry is an avid image
collector, always surrounding
himself with books,
magazines, color samples,
posters, and other ephemera.
He also has an array of
impressive old guitars.
Artist Profile
As a result, the large-scale
sculptures this 42-yearold Texas-born artist has
produced over the years are
inspired by the endless visual
impressions swirling around
in his head. Playful collages, trompe
l’oeil, distorted shapes,
and bizarre colors are all
hallmarks of Curry’s style.
Educated at Chicago’s
School of the Art Institute
(BFA 2002) and at Art
Center College of Design
in Pasadena (MFA 2005),
Curry’s art has been shown
all over the world, and
yet it remains faithful to
the mesmerizing essence
of California street style,
science fiction, and
comic book illustration.
His abstract conceptions
are towering works of
psychedelic color and
monuments to pop culture
and Twentieth Century
modernism.
Photography by Fredrik Nilsen
Monuments
of
Color
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Fuzzy Mut, 2013. Ink, silkscreen, spray paint and enamel on wood with painted aluminum base 77 ½ × 49 ¼ × 46 inches (197 × 125 × 117 cm)
Untitled wood sculpture, 2014. Silkscreen, spray paint, and enamel on wood and cardboard with painted cardboard on wood base 136 ½ × 43 × 41 ½ inches (346.5 × 109 × 61.5 cm)
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Untitled (Wood sculpture with mesh base), 2014. Silkscreen, spray paint, and enamel on wood with painted aluminum base 97 × 46 × 37 inches (246.5 × 117 × 94 cm)
Wood Sculpture #1 (medium), 2014. Spray paint and enamel on wood with painted aluminum base 120 ¾ × 76 ¾ × 56 ¾ inches (306.5 × 195 × 144 cm)
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556 West Colorado Blvd.
Photography by Todd Jordan
She wears Marker jean in Freeway.
She wears Endless Point Shirt in Star White.
Thanks to Brian Kanagaki, Katherine
Clary, Zack Kimmel, Poppie Van
Herwerden.
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He wears Utility Coat in Chambray, One Pocket Shirt in Indigo Check, Tack jean in Risk. She wears Endless Point Shirt in Star White.
He wears Utility Coat in Chambray, One Pocket Shirt in Indigo Check, Tack jean in Risk.
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He wears One Pocket Shirt in Indigo Check. She wears Endless Point Shirt in Star White.
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Located
For our Located in Los
Angeles feature, we
wanted to showcase
ten personalities, from
different disciplines
and walks of life, and
butt them up against
one another, in no
particular order, like a
game of musical chairs.
The single questions
asked were inspired by
the philosophical and
thought-provoking — at
times head-scratching
— questions sometimes
found on school
aptitude tests.
in
Rosson Crow
Darren Romanelli
Juju Sorelli
Arty Nelson
Daniel Desure
Brad Elterman
Ben Baretto
Cali Thornhill Dewitt
Uncle Vic
Caitlin Talijancich
In the end, our goal
was to elicit offthe-cuff responses,
based in part on the
randomness of the
questions. Photography by Cali Thornhill Dewitt
Los
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Angeles
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Rosson Crow
Darren Romanelli
Are people overly influenced by
unrealistic claims and misleading
images?
People are likely to achieve their goals
by being flexible rather then refusing to
compromise.
The chameleon approach as I refer
to it caters to people who have built
careers out of their flexibility to adapt
to any situation.
These people are easy to work with
and exude a better energy then some
asshole who wont compromise
Do people put too much trust in the
guidance of experts and authorities?
Experts and authorities are there to
inform and educate, but one must be
aware of the varying angles or agendas
to everything. I am a big proponent
of educating yourself on all sides of
an issue. Ultimately, we decide for
ourselves which path, position, or
experience is the right one. Education
or guidance is nothing to be afraid of.
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Juju Sorelli
Arty Nelson
Is deception ever justified? Why?
Justified is a relative term that, in this
case, I would say runs commensurate
with the extent one is willing to flaunt
one’s shortcomings to the rest of the
world, so in my case, I’d say, sometimes
yes.
Do idealists contribute more to the
world than realists?
I’m gonna tell it as it is: reality is boring
and depressing. Realistic people just
live in a world that’s been “given”,
made. Idealistic people have the ability
to create their own world and the
possibility to change things. Realistic
people are defeated by what they think
the world is. They are more limited.
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Daniel Desure
Brad Elterman
Should people respect and tolerate
everyone’s opinions, or should people
take a stand against opinions they
consider to be wrong?
Take a stand, and follow your heart.
That is what makes life so interesting.
Otherwise, you have nothing to discuss
in the locker room! When some people win, others must
lose, or are there situations in which
everyone wins?
“A German officer visited Picasso in
his Paris studio during the Second
World War. There he saw Guernica and,
shocked at the modernist ‘chaos’ of
the painting, asked Picasso: ‘Did you
do this?’ Picasso calmly replied: ‘No,
you did this!»’
— Slavoj Žižek, Violence
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Ben Baretto
Cali Thornhill Dewitt
Is talking the most effective and
satisfying way of communicating
with others?
#facetoface #yes Why? Way more
emojis IRL.
Is it best to forget about past
mistakes as soon as possible? Why?
“Those who cannot remember the past
are condemned to repeat it.”
— George Santayana
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Caitlin Talijancich
Uncle Vic
Are people too serious? Why?
I’d say 50/50... Usually, I find that
serious people always have something
to hide, are extremely insecure about
their lack of involvement in the world
as a whole and are so concerned
about themselves 24/7 that they can’t
see the light at the end of the tunnel
and realize that the only reason that
you were calved to be on this planet
is to help others. A self-centered
lifestyle will put you on suicide
watch at least twice a year. The most
important aspect of serious people is
that you immediately realize that they
CANNOT be trusted. The only serious
person in this world that I know that
can be trusted is Omar Souleyman...
Anymore stupid wuestions?... LOL...
Do people succeed by emphasizing
their differences from other people?
I don’t think people necessarily
achieve success by consciously
emphasizing their differences from
others. I think if the qualities that
make someone different are important,
genuine and interesting enough, the
world will just take notice... but even
still, having success isn’t a given. 44
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t
o
Neighborhood
Photography by HART+LËSHKINA
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More than any other American city, L.A. reinvents itself (street to street, block to block, neighborhood to neighborhood) incessantly, which leaves history buffs mournful but developers filled with glee.
Neighborhood
Ali wears Leather Trucker
in Black, Empire jean in
Pavement.
Steve wears Workwear Shirt
in Bleached Chambray,
Crouch Shorts in Insigna
Blue Buffed.
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Ali wears Leather Trucker
in Black, Empire jean in
Pavement.
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Steve wears Type II
Trucker Jacket in Ecru
Denim, Standard Shirt
in White Neps, Tack
jean in Ecru Selvedge.
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Steve wears Type II
Trucker Jacket in Ecru
Denim, Standard Shirt
in White Neps, Tack
jean in Ecru Selvedge.
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Ali wears Leather
Trucker in Black, Short
Sleeve Tee in White/
Monaco Blue Stripe.
Stylist: Imogene Barron
Hair: Ramsell Martinez (Streeters) using Oribe
Makeup: Sandy Ganzer (Jed Root) using Mac Cosmetics
Models: Ali Michael (IMG), Steve Lee (Photogenics)
Stylist’s Assistants: Isaiah Teofilo and Trudy Nelson
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498 West 5th Street
between Hill and Olive
Photography by Sarah Soquel Morhaim
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2128 East 7th Street
near the L.A. River
Photography by Sandy Kim
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UPDATED IMAGE SPREAD
COMING FROM SANDY KIM
Stylist: Zara Mirkin
Hair: Darine Sengseevong
Makeup: Karina Moore using Dermalogica and Mac
Cosmetics
Models: Allegra (Next)
Stylist’s Assistants: Isaiah Teofilo
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Reverse Introduction
Photography by Osma Harvilahti
He wears Classic Tee in Indigo Spray, Standard Shirt in White Neps.
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He wears Standard Shirt in White Neps, Tack jean in Selvedge Rigid 14oz.
He wears Standard Shirt in White Neps.
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He wears Standard Shirt in White Neps, Tack jean in Selvedge Rigid 14oz.
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He wears Classic Tee in Indigo Spray, Tack jean in Selvedge Rigid.
He wears Tack jean in Selvedge Rigid 14oz.
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Photography by HART+LËSHKINA
Place
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Downtown Los Angeles, although small by way of square mileage, is a concrete jungle, nonetheless; if you block out the desert foliage and palm trees, all sense of place is lost.
Sense
of
Ali wears Bomber
in Ecru Denim, Short
Sleeve Tee in Star
White, Marker jean in
Freeway.
Steve wears Off Road
Leather Jacket in
Black, One Pocket
Shirt in Denim Rinse,
Tack jean in Black
Lagoon.
Steve wears Varsity
Bomber Jacket
in Midnight Blue,
Standard Shirt in
Denim, Tack jean in
Black Lagoon.
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Steve wears Varsity
Bomber Jacket
in Midnight Blue,
Standard Shirt in
Denim, Tack jean in
Black Lagoon.
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Ali wears Off Road
Leather Jacket in
Black, Sweatshirt in
Grey Melee, Empire
jean in Rinse.
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Steve wears Type II
Trucker Jacket in Ecru
Denim, Classic Shirt in
Gingham Camo, Tack
jean in Selvedge Rigid
14oz.
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Ali wears Off Road
Leather Jacket in
Black, Sweatshirt in
Grey Melee, Empire
jean in Rinse.
Steve wears Varsity
Bomber Jacket
in Midnight Blue,
Standard Shirt in
Denim, Tack jean in
Black Lagoon.
Stylist: Imogene Barron
Hair: Ramsell Martinez (Streeters) using Oribe
Makeup: Sandy Ganzer (Jed Root) using Mac Cosmetics
Models: Ali Michael (IMG), Steve Lee (Photogenics)
Stylist’s Assistants: Isaiah Teofilo and Trudy Nelson
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How to
Navigate an
Urban
Landscape
Destination Unknown:
Including:
Aaron Rose /
Mary Pearson
Andrew /
Julian Gross
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Is it possible to get lost in a time and
place where navigation by space
satellite exists? Or where maps
and guides can be found of almost
anyplace on earth just by Googling
them on your smartphone?
In a way, even if no map existed of
wherever you were headed, no one has
time to go momentarily astray anyway.
The world is waiting. Even at its slowest
pace, the day is over before you know
it and it’s time to clock in all over
again, and a plan for how to get where
you’re going is crucial.
But there is much left to be
discovered. Round a new corner, veer
off the given sidewalk, new paths are
bound to appear, and in them there is
the potential for a brand new outlook.
Imagine yourself on a guided tour
through your city and turn the other
way.
It occurs to us there are other ways.
The French term dérive sums up one
idea in just a word. Its translation
hints at its meaning — to drift —
and precisely describes how to go
about your next walk through the
neighborhood, yours or someone else’s.
A never before seen door, alleyway or
building, a bridge, park or captivating
piece of street art, are all unseen
fixtures on untravelled routes.
Discoveries in mood can also be
made on otherwise ignored terrain.
It’s about opening up to the
possibility of adventure by tuning
in to your surroundings, exploring
new environments by touch, sight,
sound, and smell. It’s an old concept,
urbanized.
Explorers have long been called to go
to places they have never been. Thanks
to their curious explorations, almost
every nook on this earth has been
diagramed, mapped, and charted.
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Aaron Rose
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Mary Pearson Andrew
Destination: Los Angeles, Chinatown
Rules: Travel three stops by train. Follow three different
strangers for three city blocks each.
Metro stop #1, 3:21 PM
Metro stop #2, 3:24 PM
Stranger #2, 3:50 PM
Stranger #2, 3:52 PM
Metro stop #3, 3:27 PM
Stranger #1, 3:29 PM
Stranger #2, 3:53 PM
Stranger #3, 3:57 PM
Stranger #1, 3:44 PM
Stranger #1, 3:48 PM
Stranger #3, 4:02 PM
Stranger #3, 4:15 PM
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Julian Gross
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PR01
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