Presents Meet Your Heirloom Feet! 1 A Few of My Favorite Things! 2 Important Basics: The difference between basic sewing foot and a foot designed for decorative sewing. Basic sewing foot is flat on the bottom and holds the fabric flat against the feed teeth. This foot might drag on heavy satin type stitches. Sewing foot designed for decorative sewing has a tunnel or groove on the bottom so decorative stitches can ride smoothly under the foot without drag. These feet include the Open Toe foot, Applique Foot, Decorative Stitch Foot. They might be metal or plastic. 3 Edge Joining Foot The Edge Joining Foot has a blade in the center of the foot. . 4 Lace to Lace & Lace to Entredeux Lovingly called the “lace joining foot”, the Edge Joining Foot helps us to keep two lace headers separated while joining them together A zig zag stitch with a close stitch length and width set to catch both edges of lace is used. 5 Edge Joining Foot Folded Tucks 1/8” Tuck, left needle position 6 Edge Joining Foot Mexican Tucks Basic folded tucks can be made more decorative by stitching the tucks down in opposite directions. These are called Mexican Tucks. 7 Edge Stitching Foot The Edge Stitching Foot has a blade on the right side of the foot and is used for making deeper folded tucks. You can achieve precise 3/8”, 1/2” or 5/8” tucks by moving your needle position away from the center and placing the fold of the fabric next to the blade. 8 Folded Tucks with Edge Stitching Foot ½” Left Needle Position 3/8” Center Needle Position ¼” Right Needle Position 9 Gathering Foot We know the Gathering Foot for heirloom sewing because two of our favorite things are ruffles and puffing. 10 Gathering Foot: Suggestions for the best gathers ever Simply put, the longer our stitch length the more gathers we will get; so we have to make adjustments to our stitch length and sometimes also to our tension to get the right amount of gathers. Sometimes this is trial and error. Practice! Cut a 10” piece of fabric. Test with the same weight of fabric and thread that you will be sewing with. Cut the fabric on the same grain that the “real” fabric will be cut. Allow for a wide enough seam allowance. (Use left needle straight stitch and the edge of the presser foot. 11 Gathering Foot: Gathering a single layer: 12 Double Ruffle Baste layers together before gathering a double ruffle. 13 Gather to a flat piece of fabric Flat fabric in groove – ruffle under foot 14 Gathered fabric to flat fabric 15 Puffing Puffing is fabric that is gathered on both edges 16 Ruffler The Ruffler is an attachment that actually pleats the fabric. The Ruffler is the “go to” attachment when my gathering foot just can’t get the job done with heavier fabrics. I also love it for the special the way the ruffles look. The Ruffler can be set to pleat every stitch, every 6th or 12th stitch or no pleating at all. There is also a depth screw that will adjust the depth of the pleat for larger or smaller pleats. Set the machine for straight stitch center needle position Set stitch length according to amount of ruffle you need: The longer the stitch length the less gathers you will have. Setting the stitch length above 5.5 will usually make the ruffle adjustable. 17 Introducing you to your Ruffler! Fork Adjusting lever Ankle Adjusting Screw Heading Slot 18 Cloth Guide Fingers Enclosed Slot Separator Blade Bottom view of Ruffling Blade 19 Adjusting Lever Ruffler Use the Ruffler to: Ruffle a single layer of fabric or a double layer of fabric Make a ruffle and sew it on in one step. Sew a ruffle between two pieces of fabric Ruffle lace or ribbon on the edge or down the center Sew a ribbon on while making the ruffle ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES LIMITED ONLY BY YOUR IMAGINATION! *NEVER PULL YOUR FABRIC TOWARD YOU WHEN REMOVING THE FABRIC FROM THE RUFFLER. ALWAYS PULL IT OUT THE BACK. YOU CAN DAMAGE THE RUFFLING BLADES. *ONLY USE STRAIGHT STITCH CENTER NEEDLE POSITION! 20 Ruffle a single layer of fabric: 21 Ruffle to a flat fabric: Flat Fabric 22 Ruffle between blades Ruffle center of fabric with ribbon on top. 23 Finished Ruffle: 24 Seven and Five Hole Cord Foot I love this foot to do corded entredeux. You can stitch over a colored cord like perle cotton or Pearl Crown Rayon and it looks beautiful. It also makes very pretty braided trim . 25 7 Hole Cord foot Entredeux No Cord Pearl Crown Rayon in front Holes of foot, wing needle. 26 Gimp cord Pearl Crown No cord Rayon 3 Hole Cord Foot This foot will be used for the same things as the 7 & 5 Hole Cord foot Sometimes feet look totally different! This foot can be used to hold cord for gathering over a cord. Use it for gimp work. 27 3 & 5 Groove Pintuck Feet 3 Groove Pintuck 5 Groove Pintuck 28 7 & 9 Groove Pintuck Feet 1.6/70 2.0/80 7 Groove Pintuck 29 9 Groove Pintuck Pintuck Feet Pintuck feet come in several different sizes: Foot Needle Size Fabric Weight 3 Groove 2.5/80 or 3.0/80 Medium – Heavy 5 Groove 2.0/80 or 2.5/80 Medium 7 Groove 1.6/80 or 2.0/80 Light 9 Groove 1.6/80 or 2.0/80 Light This is only a guideline. Always test your fabric before making your tucks or sewing decorative stitches to achieve the look you like. 30 Bottom grooves on Pintuck feet are used to space the pintucks. The first pintuck will always be in the center groove. Place the stitched pintuck in any other groove on the Bottom of the foot to give the desired spacing. 31 Pintucks Twin needle pintucks are an heirloom classic. They can add beautiful embellishment to your garment with only the investment of your time. Use a lightweight (60 wt or 100 wt) thread in the needles. Both spools should be the same type and weight. The same size spools should be used. Follow your machine manufacturer’s advice for threading. Use straight stitch, center needle position, 1.5 – 2.0 stitch length. 32 Pintucks with a 9 Groove foot and 1/6 Twin Needle 33 Decorative stitching with twin needles Beautiful decorative effects can be accomplished using decorative stitches with a twin needle. Use your machine’s twin needle setting Always test by the stitch by turning the hand-wheel to move the needle in and out of the fabric to make sure the needle isn’t hitting anything. Use stabilizer 34 Decorative Stitching With a Twin Needle This project was sewn for the Sulky® Book Embellish Your Life with Sulky 35 Piping Feet 36 Piping Piping is a lovely addition to your heirloom garments to use in collars, sleeves and waistlines. It adds such a lovely accent or definition to your garment. Most piping for heirloom garments is made using baby cord and a small piping foot, or even a pintuck foot. Place cord in groove of the foot. Move needle position if necessary to sew close to cord 37 Inserting piping in seam 38 Open Toe Foot The open toe foot will also be called the applique foot. It is important for visualizing stitches as you sew. It is designed with the groove on the back to ride smoothly over the raised stitching of applique and decorative stitches. There are metal and clear Open Toe feet. 39 Open Toe Foot Pinstitching lace to fabric 40 Gimpwork with Open Toe Foot 41 Hemmer Feet 42 Fabric is placed in the “scroll” of the foot. 43 Scroll Hemmer feet can make straight stitch or rolled hem 44 Gimp Foot The Gimp Foot is not readily available for all machines, but it is worthy of mention. The Gimp foot has a clip and a groove on the top which holds the cord and allows it to feed easily while stitching so you don’t have to “mess around” with the cord. The Gimping guide is also handy to hold the cord out of the way so you can follow your desired design. If a Gimp foot is not available, use an Open Toe Foot and hold the cord in the center of the foot. 45 Gimp Foot Gimp work is satin stitching done over a very fine cord which gives the stitching a raised 3 dimensional look. It is lovely to add as an embellishment that is subtle yet beautiful. It is wonderful sewn over the heading of lace rather than using a pinstitch or entredeux stitch. Satin Zigzag Stitch, Stitch length 0.3 – 0.6; Stitch Width 1.5 – 2.0 Threads – decorative Rayon, polyester or cotton. Adjust the stitch length so that it covers the cord 46 Gimp over lace Gimp Foot The gimp foot is also very handy when you want to gather over a cord. Use a zigzag stitch wide enough to clear the cord and stitch length 3.5 – 4.5, SW 2.0. Pull the cord to gather. 47 Spanish Hemstitch Foot Set Viking is the only machine that I know of that has this foot, but it definitely is worth mentioning. I will also share how to get the same effect without the foot. 48 Spanish Hemstitch foot set 49 LACE TO SPAGHETTI BIAS 50 If the Spanish Hemstitch accessory is not available use the following technique: 1. Cut a 1 ¼” piece of Sticky Wash Away Stabilizer the length of the lace/bias piece. 2. Peel away the release paper from the Sticky Wash Away Stabilizer. 3. Place a piece of insertion lace on one edge of the Sticky Wash Away Stabilizer. 51 4. Measure from the opposite edge of the bias a scant 1/4” and place the header of the second piece of lace or other trim up to the edge of the ruler. 52 Stitch with the feather stitch between the lace and bias. Rinse out the stabilizer by soaking the strips of lace and bias in warm water and rinsing several times. 53 LACE/RICK RACK Using the wash away stabilizer method, join lace and rick rack 54 LACE/LACE Stabilizer Method/Bodkin Ribbon Bodkin 55 Place water soluble sticky stabilizer under each piece of lace Tape a ribbon bodkin centered in front of the presser foot Place one piece of lace on either side of bodkin and sew. Rinse out stabilizer after stitching is finished. Wrong side of lace with stabilizer 56 Stabilizer rinsed out Feet you might not think about! Manual buttonhole foot – Use for: Roll & Whip Piping Corded Entredeux 57 Chenille foot for applying wide Rick Rack 58 Designed to sew on chenille. When was the last time you did that? Fancy Trim Foot for sewing rick rack, spaghetti bias and other narrow trims 59 The foot was designed for sewing sequins! When was the last time you sewed sequins on anything? Let’s Not Forget – The Serger! I love using my serger for heirloom techniques. The gathering Foot and Piping Foot work fabulously! Two sizes Piping Feet 3.0 and 5.5 mm. Gathering(shirring) Foot 60 Gathering- make ruffles and puffing! Piping- Create piping, insert piping and also insert zippers! 61 I love that serger gathering finishes the edge of the fabric while it gathers This is how the piping looks when it is finished and applied to a garment. I use it as a quick and easy finish for armholes and necklines. For complete instructions check out Cutie Capris and Tank Top Pattern www.PeggyDdesigns.com The presser feet in this presentation are only a sampling of feet that are Available for today’s sewing machines. They are my favorite and the ones that I use all the time for heirloom sewing. I am sure you have your favorite feet also. I appreciate you allowing me to share this information with you! Please be sure to check with your local machine dealer for more information and for the purchase of these accessory feet. The machine manufacturer’s web sites have a wealth of valuable information regarding the use of the presser feet and which feet are available for your machine. Be sure to check them all out! I would like to give credit for the photos of the Babylock and Bernina presser feet. These photos were copied from their web sites: www.babylock.com and www.berninausa.com Please visit my website www.PeggyDdesigns.com for all of my patterns and CD’s! 64
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