1. food and drink
2. food
3. condiments and dressings

THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
FOR
M.C.W. & E.C.W.
THE BOOK OF
MARMALADE
ITS ANTECEDENTS,
ITS HISTORY
AND ITS ROLE
IN THE WORLD TODAY
TOGETHER WITH
A COLLECTION OF
RECIPES FOR MARMALADES
AND
MARMALADE COOKERY
REVISED EDITION
C. ANNE WILSON
PROSPECT BOOKS
2010
This second revised edition published in Great Britain by
Prospect Books in 2010 at Allaleigh House, Blackawton, Totnes,
Devon TQ9 7DL.
7KH¿UVWUHYLVHGHGLWLRQZDVSXEOLVKHGE\3URVSHFW%RRNVLQ
1999.
The Book of Marmalade was originally published by Constable &
Co. Ltd., London, in 1985.
Copyright © 1985, 1999 and 2010, C. Anne Wilson.
&$QQH:LOVRQDVVHUWVKHUULJKWWREHLGHQWL¿HGDVWKHDXWKRU
of this work in accordance with the Copyright, Designs &
Patents Act 1988.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,
without the prior permission of the copyright holder.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data:
A catalogue entry for this book is available from the British
Library.
ISBN 978ĥ1ĥ903018ĥ77ĥ4
'HVLJQHGDQGW\SHVHWLQ+RHÀHU7H[WE\2OLYHU3DZOH\DQG
Tom Jaine.
Printed in Malta by Gutenberg Press.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Preface to the First Edition
Preface to the Second Revised Edition
9
11
I
MARMALADE AND ITS FORERUNNERS
13
II
Marmalade and its name
Melomeli and cidonitum: the ancient world
Chardequynce into marmelada: the medieval world
‘FOREIGN AND HOMEĥBRED MARMALADES’:
TUDOR AND STUART ENGLAND
III
THE BEGINNINGS
IV
27
Marmelado and codiniac
Marmalade and quidony
0DUPDODGHDPRQJWKHµ%DQTXHWWLQJVWXɱH¶
Medicinal marmalade
Marmalade as an aphrodisiac
ORANGE MARMALADE IN ENGLAND:
Marmalades of other fruits
7KH¿UVWRUDQJHPDUPDODGH
Marmalade of pippins and jelly of pippins
True orange marmalade
Medicinal orange marmalade
MARMALADE IN SCOTLAND: THE BEGINNINGS
Early marmalades in Scotland
South Britain and North Britain
Marmalade at the Scottish breakfast table
-DQHW.HLOOHU¶VLQLWLDWLYH
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
41
53
5
V
VI
VII
ORANGE MARMALADE: THE YEARS OF EXPANSION
English marmalade: dessert sweetmeat into
breakfast fare
Orange marmalade recipes: some new
developments
Marmalade manufacture: the nineteenth
FHQWXU\H[SDQVLRQ
HOMEĥMADE MARMALADE YESTERDAY AND TODAY
Seville orange marmalade
Marmalades of citrus fruits other than oranges
Wartime and postĥwar marmalades
THE MARMALADE MARKET YESTERDAY AND TODAY
63
78
88
Standards and varieties
Vintage and liqueur marmalades
Production and marketing
VIII
TASTES IN MARMALADE YESTERDAY AND TODAY
106
Quince marmalade and other nonĥcitrus
marmalades
Tastes in orange and other citrus fruit
marmalades
Marmalade as a health food
IX
MARMALADE IN THE WIDER WORLD
115
Marmalade in the New World: the early centuries
Marmalade in British colonial life: the
nineteenth century
References
Cookeryĥbook bibliography
Recipes 140
Historic recipes
Marmalade recipes for today
Marmalade cookery for today
*HQHUDOLQGH[
,QGH[RIUHFLSHV
6
133
138
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
ILLUSTRATIONS
Quince tree. J. Gerard, The Herball, 1597
The best white marmalade of quinces, later 17th
century. Brotherton Library, University of Leeds,
MS 687, No. 47
µ6U.HQHOPH'LJE\.W¶6LU.'LJE\Choice and
Experimental Receipts in Physick and Chirurgery,
2nd ed. 1675
Orange marmalade, 1714. M. Kettilby, A Collection of above
Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physic
and Surgery, 1714
Orange tree. J. Gerard, The Herball, 1597
Employees at F. Duerr & Son, 1910
Boiling room at Tiptree, 1921
Marmaladeĥcutter. Harmsworth’s Household
Encyclopaedia, vol. 3, 1923
Seventeenthĥcentury lemon.
A Book of Fruits & Flowers, 1653
DeliveryĥYDQIURP5REHUWVRQ¶V%ULVWROIDFWRU\c.1914
&URVVH%ODFNZHOO¶VSULFHĥlist, August 1884
Seventeenthĥcentury quince.
A Book of Fruits & Flowers, 1653
&KLYHUV¶SULFHĥlist, February 1945
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
8
34
45
49
55
73
75
82
84
92
97
119
131
7
Quince tree. J. Gerard, The Herball, 1597.
8
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
PREFACE
TO THE FIRST
EDITION
E
very few years in the correspondence columns of The Times
the argument about marmalade is resumed. Its champions
write in to say it was invented by Janet Keiller, by Mary, Queen
of Scots, by the Portuguese, and they cite erudite works telling
about the uses to which it was put. It seems almost unsporting to
produce a book which will settle the argument once for all. But
the long, complicated story of marmalade and its antecedents
has fascinated me for some time, and now I have succumbed
to the temptation to write it out and share it.
When the publishers asked to have the story brought up
WRGDWHZLWKLQIRUPDWLRQRQPDUPDODGH¶VSODFHLQWKHZRUOG
today, I had the chance to delve into its very recent history, and
UHDOLVHGWKDWWKLVLVDQRQJRLQJDɱDLUDQGWKDWQHZIDVKLRQVLQ
marmalade are continuing to emerge, not only in Britain, but
in Englishĥspeaking countries overseas. In some ways the wheel
has come full circle. Marmalade was a very special gift in the
UHLJQRI.LQJ+HQU\9,,,,QWKHVWKHµSUHPLXPVHFWRU¶
VXSSO\LQJH[SHQVLYHPDUPDODGHVLQWHQGHGIRUWKHIRRGĥgift
market, is the most buoyant part of the marmalade trade. But
whereas we once imported our marmalade from Portugal, Spain
DQG,WDO\QRZZHVHQGLWDVDQH[SRUWDOORYHUWKHZRUOG
Many friends and colleagues have been kind enough to
contribute facts or recipes, or both, to this study. I should
OLNHWRH[SUHVVVSHFLDOWKDQNVWR'U:HQG\&KLOGV$ODQDQG
Jane Davidson, Professor Constance Hieatt, Janet Hine,
Helen Peacocke, Jennifer Stead, Rosemary Suttill, and Beth
7XSSHU0\WKDQNVDUHGXHDOVRWRWKHIROORZLQJ¿UPVDQGWKHLU
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
9
representatives, who sent me useful material on several aspects
RIPDUPDODGHPDQXIDFWXUH%D[WHUVĪ0U:0%LJJDUWī&KLYHUV
Ī0LVV(*UHHQZRRGī)UDQN&RRSHUĪ0UV&+RRSHUī&URVVH
%ODFNZHOOĪ0U5+6WDUOLQJī(OVHQKDPĪ0U$-*%OXQWDQG0V
*6LQFODLUī)RUWQXP0DVRQĪ0U.+DQVHQī.HLOOHUĪ0U&
+%ODNHPDQī5REHUWVRQĪ0V-0HHNīDQG:LONLQRI7LSWUHH
Ī0U,.7KXUJRRGī
Most of the older recipe books consulted are among those
in the Blanche Leigh and John F. Preston collections of early
cookeryĥbooks in the Brotherton Library at the University
of Leeds. Nearly all cookeryĥbooks from Elizabethan times
onwards contain marmalade recipes, but the ones listed in
the bibliography are the books and the editions which were
XVHGLQFRPSLOLQJWKHSUHVHQWWH[W,QGLYLGXDOSDJHQXPEHUV
KDYHQRWEHHQFLWHGDVPRVWRIWKHERRNVKDYHLQGH[HVVRWKH
keen marmaladeĥVOHXWKFDQ¿QGWKHUHFLSHVZLWKRXWGLɷFXOW\
in contemporary copies of the books, or in modern facsimile
reprints.
TwentyĥRQHRIWKHPRVWVLJQL¿FDQWHDUO\UHFLSHVDUHSULQWHG
LQIXOOLQDVHSDUDWHVHFWLRQRQKLVWRULFUHFLSHVĪSSĦī7KH
modern recipes which follow are divided into two sections, one
for marmalades, and the other for a wide range of meat dishes,
sauces, puddings, cakes, pastries, etc. in which marmalade is
an ingredient.
Preparing this book has been a pleasant and interesting task,
and I hope it will give pleasure to its readers.
C.A.W.
Leeds
May 1984
10
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
PREFACE
TO THE SECOND
REVISED EDITION
M
armalade, with its long history and special traditions,
is now under threat in the British Isles. The largeĥscale
commercial manufacturers report dwindling sales year on
year, and reckon that the vast majority of their customers are
middleĥaged or well beyond, and the younger generations have
never acquired a taste for this conserve Ħ or for the breakfast
habits of their grandparents. The number of longĥestablished
independent producers with family traditions has also dwindled.
Premier Foods has absorbed Cooper, Keiller, Robertson and
RWKHUV%XWWKHODUJHFRQJORPHUDWHVDOVRUHDGLO\VHOORɱZHOOĥ
known brands if retaining them does not suit their current
DLPVRU¿QDQFLDOSRVLWLRQ6RDOWKRXJK,KDYHXSGDWHGSDUWVRI
chapters seven and eight, the commercial picture may be quite
GLɱHUHQWLQDIHZ\HDUV¶WLPH
%XWWKHUHDUJXDUGLV¿JKWLQJEDFN'XHUU¶VKDVLQVWLWXWHG
1DWLRQDO0DUPDODGH'D\FHOHEUDWHGRQ0DUFKĪWKHGDWH
in 1495 of the earliest record available, at the time of the
¿UVWHGLWLRQRIWKLVERRNIRUWKHDUULYDODWDQ(QJOLVKSRUWRI
3RUWXJXHVHTXLQFHPDUPDODGHī$QDQQXDO1DWLRQDO0DUPDODGH
Festival is now held in late winter at Dalemain House in
Cumbria, attended by enthusiastic homeĥmakers of marmalade
from all over the country. They enter their products into
FRPSHWLWLRQVZLWKDODUJHFKRLFHRIGLɱHUHQWFDWHJRULHVDQG
some 600 entries were claimed for 2010.
Marmalade is also making some progress elsewhere in the
world. The Japanese have now acquired a taste for it, and enjoy
LWQRWRQO\RQWRDVWEXWDOVRPL[HGZLWK\RJKXUWRUGLVVROYHG
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
11
LQKRWEODFNWHDRUZDWHU7KLVFRQVHUYHFDQZLWKRXWGLɷFXOW\
EHPDGHORFDOO\-DSDQLVKRPHWRPDQ\GLɱHUHQWW\SHVRIFLWUXV
tree, and Michito Nozawa, my informant, kindly sent me two
jars of her homeĥmade marmalade. One was based on DaiĦdaiĪD
close relation of the Chinese progenitor of our Seville orange,
which may itself have originated as a cross between the pomelo
DQGWKHWDQJHULQHīDQGWKHRWKHUPDGHIURPYuĦzu, a sweeter,
very fragrant type of orange.
Marmalade in Britain has developed and changed a great
deal over the centuries and perhaps in future most of it will
EHSUHSDUHGIURPVZHHWHUFLWUXVIUXLWV0HDQZKLOHLQWRGD\¶V
world of fusion foods, new ideas for combining tangy Seville
RUDQJHPDUPDODGHZLWKRWKHUIRRGVWXɱVPXVWVXUHO\HPHUJH
Long live marmalade!
C.A.W.
Leeds
June 2010
12
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
CHAPTER I
MARMALADE
AND ITS
FORERUNNERS
MARMALADE AND ITS NAME
M
armalade spread generously upon slices of freshlyĥmade
buttered toast: this, we like to believe, is the traditional
English ending to the traditional English breakfast. Some would
go further, and insist that the original home of the marmalade
tradition was Scotland, and that it reached the English from
their Scottish neighbours. Yet there is something strange about
the name of this confection. Why should it derive from the
Portuguese marmelo, meaning quince, when traditional British
PDUPDODGHLVPDGHIURP6HYLOOHRUDQJHVĪZLWKVXFKDOWHUQDWLYHV
as lime, grapefruit, lemon or ginger marmalade generally
regarded as more recent variations on the primary theme of
ELWWHURUDQJHī"
$QGLVPDUPDODGHXQLTXHWR%ULWDLQ",WVQDPHLVFHUWDLQO\
QRWFRQ¿QHGWRWKH(QJOLVKODQJXDJH:KHQZHWUDYHODEURDG
ZH¿QGWKDWLQQHDUO\HYHU\FRXQWU\RI(XURSHSHRSOHKDYHWKH
WHUPµPDUPDODGH¶LQWKHLUYRFDEXODU\Ħ spelled sometimes rather
strangely to our eyes, but clearly the same word. Moreover, it is
often applied to a much wider range of conserves there than it
is in Britain. One reason is that nonĥEnglishĥspeaking nations
ODFNDQH[DFWHTXLYDOHQWIRURXUµMDP¶
This leads to some interesting comparisons. Holidayĥmakers
in Greece will receive on their hotel breakfast tables, along
ZLWKWKHEUHDGDQGUXVNVĪDQGRIWHQSLHFHVRIFDNHDQRVWDOJLF
reminder of bygone times, for in the eighteenth century we too,
LQ%ULWDLQDWHFDNHIRUEUHDNIDVWīSDWVRIEXWWHUDQGOLWWOHSRWV
of conserve covered with foil. Upon the foil will be the name
13
in Greek characters, MARMELADA PHRAOULA, and beneath that
the English translation, STRAWBERRY JAM. On other days the
FRQWHQWVRIWKHSRWVZLOOGLɱHUDQGWKHWUDQVODWLRQVZLOOUHDG
QUINCE JAM, APRICOT JAM, GRAPEFRUIT JAM, ORANGE JAM, and so
on. In every case, the Greek term will be MARMELADA, plus the
name of the fruit.
In Italy, likewise, MARMELLATA is made of peaches, or
DSULFRWVRUILJVĪILJmarmellataLVDQ,WDOLDQVSHFLDOLW\īRU
JUHHQJDJHVRUDSSOHVRUSHDUVZKLOHRUDQJHPDUPDODGHKDVWR
EHGH¿QHGDVMARMELLATA DI ARANCE AMAREĪELWWHURUDQJHVīRU
DI AGRUMIĪFLWUXVIUXLWVī)UHQFKMARMALADELVGH¿QHGLQ/LWWUp¶V
dictionary as fruit cooked with sugar for so long that skin and
ÀHVKDUHFRPSOHWHO\PHOGHGWRJHWKHUWRIRUPDVLQJOHVXEVWDQFH
RIXQLIRUPFRQVLVWHQF\7KHLGHDLVH[WHQGHGWRRWKHUIRRGV
which are cooked until they turn into a sticky, homogeneous
mass, when they are described as being ‘en marmelade¶,Q
Germany and the Scandinavian countries, marmalades may be
of any fruits, and if they are made of oranges or lemons, then
the names of those fruits must be added to the word MARMELADE
or its equivalent.
The British themselves have not always had their softĥfruit
MDPV7KHZRUGµMDP¶EHJDQWRFUHHSLQWRPDQXVFULSWFRRNHU\ĥ
books in the last quarter of the seventeenth century, and
into the printed ones early in the eighteenth. It had entered
WKH(QJOLVKODQJXDJHRQO\DERXWDKXQGUHG\HDUVEHIRUHDQG
perhaps it had a middleĥeastern origin, for there is an Arab word
‘jam¶ZKLFKPHDQVµFORVHĥSDFNHG¶RUµDOOWRJHWKHU¶)URPLWVPRUH
general usage in English for things that were jammed against
one another, the word passed into the realm of confectionery,
to denote those preserves where soft fruits cooked with sugar
were crushed together, rather than sieved, and could thus truly
EHGHVFULEHGDVµMDPPHG¶RUµLQDMDP¶
Still earlier, the soft fruits were sometimes boiled down
with sugar to a very thick and solid consistency which had
WKHQDPHµPDUPDODGH¶MRLQHGWRWKDWRIWKHIUXLWIRULQVWDQFH
14
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
µGULHPDUPDODGHRISHDFKHV¶LQ$:¶VA Book of Cookrye, 1587,
DQGµPDUPDODGHRIGDPVRQVRUSUXQHV¶LQ-RKQ3DUWULGJH¶V
The Treasurie of Commodious Conceites, 1584. But at that time,
and indeed until well into the eighteenth century, the word
µPDUPDODGH¶XVHGE\LWVHOIPHDQWRQO\RQHWKLQJPDUPDODGHRI
quinces. And here we can begin to see the possibility of a link
with Portuguese quinces.
In Tudor times, wellĥtoĥdo English families enjoyed a number
RIOX[XU\IRRGVLPSRUWHGIURPVRXWKHUQ(XURSHLQFOXGLQJ
sugar and sugarĥcandy, oranges, lemons, dried fruits and sweet
ZLQHV6RZKHQWKH3RUWXJXHVHWUDGHUVVHWRɱZLWKWKHLU¿JV
UDLVLQVDQGFLWUXVIUXLWVRLOZD[DQGKRQH\LQWKHKROGVRIWKHLU
JDOOH\VWKH\FRXOGZHOOKDYHIRXQGLWSUR¿WDEOHVRPHWLPHVWR
add a small stock of a local conserve confected from quinces
and sugar, and called in Portuguese marmelada because it was
made from the marmelo, or quince.
,QIDFWPDUPDODGHGLG¿UVWDUULYHWKXVLQ(QJODQGIURP
Portugal, and before long also from Spain and Italy, where
the Portuguese term for the confection was likewise adopted.
The earliest English references to marmalade are therefore
to be found in port records, where the names of the shipper
and his ship and the value of its cargo were set down, so that
appropriate duties could be charged. But before long English
travellers to Mediterranean lands began to bring back recipes
IRUWKLVGHOHFWDEOHVZHHWPHDWDQGWKHQPDUPDODGHFRXOGEH
made in England too, from homeĥgrown quinces and imported
sugar, which was rather less costly than the versions which
arrived by sea from southern Europe.
MELOMELI AND CIDONITUM: THE ANCIENT WORLD
The origins of quince marmalade are to be traced back far
EH\RQG WKH VL[WHHQWK FHQWXU\ DQG LWV YHU\ UHFRJQLVDEOH
forebears can be identified in the homeĥmade preserves of
Roman times, and in the recipes of the Greek physicians. The
MARMALADE AND ITS FORERUNNERS
15
physicians valued the prepared quinces and quince jellies as aids
to digestion, and recommended them for various complaints
affecting the stomach, liver and kidneys. But the methods
whereby the quinces were conserved must have been invented
originally because people wanted to enjoy some part of their
fruit crops through the winter and spring months.
The earliest system of fruit preservation was probably based
XSRQGU\LQJWKHUHLVHYLGHQFHWKDWDSSOHVZHUHFXWXSDQGGULHG
in slices in Neolithic Britain.1 But in time other alternatives
were discovered. When Cato wrote about work on the farm in
Italy in the second century BCKHDGYLVHGWKHZLIHRIWKHEDLOLɱ
WRNHHSµDODUJHVWRUHRIGULHGSHDUVVRUEVĪIUXLWRIWKHVHUYLFH
WUHHUHODWHGWRWKHURZDQī¿JVUDLVLQV«ĪDQGīSUHVHUYHGSHDUV
and grapes and quinces. She should also have grapes preserved
in grapeĥSXOSDQG6FDQWLDQTXLQFHVNHSWLQMDUV¶$SXOHLXVWKUHH
centuries later, gave further advice, which has been transmitted
LQ%RRN,RI$SLFLXV¶FRRNHU\ĥbook. Grapes were to be put in a
little boiled water within sealed jars made airtight with pitch,
RUZHUHWREHVWRUHGGU\LQEDUOH\PXOEHUULHVZHUHWREHNHSW
in mulberryĥMXLFHPL[HGZLWKsapa ĪZLQHĥmust boiled down and
UHGXFHGWRDV\UXSī$VIRUTXLQFHVµ&KRRVHIDXOWOHVVTXLQFHVZLWK
their twigs and leaves, and put them in a receptacle, and pour
over honey and defrutum ĬZLQHĥmust reduced to an even thicker
consistency than sapaĭ\RXZLOONHHSWKHPIRUDORQJWLPH¶2
So quinces could be preserved successfully in a state of
completeness. But already another mode of preservation had
been devised for them. According to the recipe of Dioscorides,
WKH¿UVWĥcentury AD physician, quinces, peeled and with their
pips removed, were wedged together as tightly as possible in
honey in a vessel. After a year they became as soft as ‘wineĥ
KRQH\¶DSUHSDUDWLRQIRUZKLFKZLQHDQGKRQH\ZHUHERLOHG
WRJHWKHUDQGUHGXFHGWRDWKLFNFRQVLVWHQF\Ĭ6HH5ĭ7KLV
method was a Greek invention, and its Greek name, PɉORPHOL
ĪDSSOHĥinĥKRQH\īSDVVHGLQWR/DWLQDVWKHmelomeli of Columella,
and the melimela ĪKRQH\ĥapples, with an implied inversion of
16
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
CHAPTER II
‘FOREIGN AND HOMEĥBRED
0$50$/$'(6¶78'25
AND STUART ENGLAND
MARMELADO AND CODINIAC
M
DUPDODGHKDVPDGHDVWULNLQJ¿UVWDSSHDUDQFHLQVRPH
history books because of an old tradition that the Antiĥ
SRSH3HWHUGH/XQDZKHQKHZDVFRQ¿QHGLQDFDVWOHRQWKH
LVOHWRI3HQLVFRODRɱWKHHDVWFRDVWRI6SDLQDOPRVWORVWKLVOLIH
in July 1418 through eating poisoned marmalade. It is sad to
have to cast doubt on this dramatic event, but contemporary
sources do not support it. They give another version, wherein
Peter consumed not marmalade, but honeyĥ¿OOHGZDIHUVZHOO
GRVHGZLWKSRLVRQE\KLVHQHPLHVDQGDIWHUZDUGVVRPHSOD\
was made on the contrast between the Holy Wafer of the Mass
DQGWKHXQKRO\ZDIHUVZKLFKWUDQVPLWWHGWKHLUGHDGO\¿OOLQJWR
the Antiĥpope. He survived this attempt on his life because the
poison, probably arsenic, caused such violent vomiting that most
of it was ejected from his system before it could prove fatal.1
The earliest evidence for marmalade is in reality more
prosaic. It takes the form of records of imports of marmalade
into England belonging to the time when it was beginning to
arrive by sea in quantities large enough to have to be declared
DQGYDOXHGDWLWVSRUWRIHQWU\DORQJZLWKWKHUHVWRIWKHVKLS¶V
cargo. The earliest surviving records all refer to Portuguese
VKLSVDQGVKLSSHUVDQGWKXVFRQ¿UPWKDWWKH(QJOLVKUHFHLYHG
the word marmelada direct from Portugal, since it was from
WKHUHWKDWWKH\¿UVWKDGWKHSURGXFWLWVHOI2Q0DUFK
µSHF¶ĬSLHFHVĭPDUPHODG¶ ¶DUULYHGDWWKH3RUWRI/RQGRQLQWKH
VKLSRI)DUQDQGR<DQHVRQ0DUFKWKH\ZHUHIROORZHGWKHUH
in a single day, by 40 lb. of marmalade on the ship of Peter
27
Founse, and four further consignments, adding up to 45 lb. plus
µFRɱHUV¶EURXJKWLQE\IRXUGLɱHUHQWWUDGHUVRQWKHVKLSRI
0DUWLQ<DQXV7KHFXVWRPVDFFRXQWVRI([HWHUVKRZWKDWRQ
17 January 1499, Peter Farnando landed from the ship Rosary of
2SRUWROERIPDUPDODGHYDOXHGDWVĪĸī2
The quantities of marmalade which arrived in some of the
HDUO\VKLSPHQWVDUHQRWDOZD\VVRFOHDU$µOLWWOHFKHVW¶īSDUYD
FLVWDĬof marmalade was delivered at Southampton during the
year 1500Ħ1. Between 10 October 1502 and 26 May 1503, 1 barrel,
SRWOLWWOHSRWVDQGURYHĪDVRPHZKDWYDULDEOHZHLJKWRIWHQ
DERXWOEīRIPDUPDODGHHQWHUHGWKH3RUWRI/RQGRQDWYDULRXV
WLPHV7KHVKLSVDQGVKLSSHUVZHUHDOO3RUWXJXHVHH[FHSWIRU
Martin Colongas, on whose ship the aboveĥmentioned barrel
was conveyed, and he may have been a Basque.
The barrel was valued at 20s., but the other containers
carried no valuation, being part of larger consignments of
PL[HGJRRGVDOOWD[HGWRJHWKHU7KH¿JXUHRIVIRUWKH
OERIPDUPDODGHEURXJKWLQWR([HWHULQVKRZVWKDWLWV
ZKROHVDOHSULFHZDVGĪXQGHUSīDSRXQG7KHVDPHFRVWLQJ
is suggested by the entry in a book of rates issued in London
in 1507. The marmelado here is in fact given the unlikely value
RIĸDOEEXWWKLVPXVWVXUHO\EHGXHWRPLVFRS\LQJLQWKH
eighteenthĥcentury transcript of the book which has turned
SHQFHLQWRĸVĪIRUFRPSDULVRQVXFFDGHDFRQIHFWLRQRIFLWUXV
fruitĥpeels in sugar syrup, also imported from southern Europe,
ZDVQRPRUHWKDQGDOERQWKHVDPHOLVWī3 The retail price
is less certain, and there may have been a considerable writeĥ
up initially because of the novelty of the marmalade. When
chardequynce was purchased for the household of George,
Duke of Clarence, in 1469, ten oneĥSRXQGER[HVFRVWVĪSī
HDFKDQGWKH3RUWXJXHVHPDUPDODGHPD\DW¿UVWKDYHVROGIRU
comparable sums.4
The price of marmalade fell in the following decades. By 1537
/DG\/LVOH¶VPDQZDVDEOHWREX\¿QHmarmelado for her at 9d.
ĪXQGHUSīDOEDIWHUKHKDGVSXUQHGWKHFRDUVHUTXDOLW\ZKLFK
28
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
ZDVRQO\GĪź»ƅSīDOEEXWZDVµQRWKLQJZRUWK¶5 Marmelado, as
this Spanish form of the name implies, was by then arriving from
Spain and Italy, though the Portuguese connection continued.
Marmalade, along with sugarĥpreserved fruits and candied peels,
formed part of a consignment of sweetmeats which the ‘factor
RI3RUW\XJDOH¶VXSSOLHGWR7KRPDV&URPZHOOLQ6 Marmalade
JUHZPRUHH[SHQVLYHDJDLQLQWKHLQÀDWLRQDU\\HDUVWRZDUGV
the end of the century. A household book for 1587Ħ8 belonging
to Lord Middleton of Wollaton Hall, Nottinghamshire, has
an entry on 22 July for 2 lb. 1 oz. marmalade purchased for
VGĪź»ƅSīDORQJZLWKOERIVXFNHWDWVGĪź»ƅSī
so marmalade and sucket or succade at that time cost almost
H[DFWO\WKHVDPH7%XWWKHSULFHPD\ZHOOKDYHÀXFWXDWHGDJRRG
deal from season to season, according to the availability of the
marmalade and its quality.
The marmalade which was offered for sale through this
SHULRGZDVDVZHHWVROLGTXLQFHMHOO\ÀDYRXUHGZLWKURVHZDWHU
and musk, or occasionally other food scents. It could be
used for purely medicinal purposes, but was also a delicious
VZHHWPHDWWREHVHUYHGDWWKHHQGRID¿QHGLQQHURUDVSHFLDO
supper, just as chardequynce had been in former times. It was
DQDWWUDFWLYHFRPPRGLW\DQGDVDUHVXOWWKHPDUPDODGHQDPHG
in the household accounts of a number of important Tudor
¿JXUHVZDVQRWDOZD\VUHFRUGHGWKHUHDVDSXUFKDVHRULILW
was so recorded, was not necessarily intended for the person
on whose behalf it had been bought. Marmalade was a very
DFFHSWDEOHJLIWRQHWKDWFRXOGEHRɱHUHGLQWKHVXUHNQRZOHGJH
that it would cause the recipient to look with favour upon the
donor. Not surprisingly, in one of the earliest records of a gift of
marmalade, the recipient was no less a person than King Henry
VIII. His Letters and Papers for 1524 supply the information:
µ3UHVHQWHGE\+XOORI([HWHURQHER[RIPDUPDODGH¶8
Lady Lisle both gave and received marmalade at various
times during the 1530s. In a letter to Lord Lisle on 12 May 1534,
:LOOLDP*UHWWZURWHµ,KDYHVHQWXQWR\RXUORUGVKLSDER[RI
¶)25(,*1$1'+20(Ħ%5('0$50$/$'(6·
29
CHAPTER III
ORANGE MARMALADE
IN ENGLAND:
THE BEGINNINGS
MARMALADES OF OTHER FRUITS
Q
uince marmalade was the basic form of the conserve, the one
t h a t t h e Tu d o r a n d S t u a r t p r e s e r v i n g b o o k s
VLPSO\ GHVLJQDWHG DV µPDUPDODGH¶ RIWHQ ZLWKRXW IXUWKHU
TXDOL¿FDWLRQ0DUPDODGHVRIRWKHUIUXLWVDOZD\VKDGWRKDYH
their fruits named. Such marmalades had not been slow
to appear. The Secrets of Alexis of Piedmont, translated into
English in 1562, concluded its instructions for the making
of quince marmalade by saying, ‘In like manner may you
GUHVV DQG WULP SHDFKHV SHDUV DQG RWKHU NLQGV RI IUXLWV¶
The method by which fruits were boiled soft and then
reboiled with sugar was obviously applicable to any fruits,
KDUGRURWKHUZLVHDQGVRDVHULHVRIUHFLSHVIRUQRQĥquince
PDUPDODGHV PDGH WKHLU DSSHDUDQFH -RKQ 3DUWULGJH¶V The
Treasurie of Commodious Conceites and Hidden Secrets, 1584, has
RQHWLWOHGµ7RPDNHPDUPDODGHRIGDPVRQVRUSUXQHV¶ZLWK
the plums boiled soft and strained through a coarse boulter
µDV\HPDNHDWDUWĪLHDWDUW ĥILOOLQJī¶EHIRUHEHLQJUHERLOHG
with sugar. ‘This wise you may make marmalade of wardens,
SHDUVDSSOHVDQGPHGODUVVHUYLFHVĪIUXLWRIWKHVHUYLFHĥtree,
UHODWHGWRWKHURZDQīFKHFNHUVRUVWUDZEHUULHVHYHU\RQHE\
KLPVHOIRUPL[LWWRJHWKHUDV\RXWKLQNJRRG¶7KHHGLWLRQ
of A Book of Cookrye by A.W. contained a ‘dry marmalade of
SHDFKHV¶Ĭ6HH5ĭ3HDFKHVDQGSHDUVDQGVHYHUDORWKHUIUXLWV
are poorer in pectin than quinces. Furthermore, there was a
strong tendency in Tudor times to overcook all foods in terms
RIWRGD\¶VVWDQGDUGV6RPDQ\RIWKHVRĥcalled marmalades must
41
have turned out as fruitĥandĥsugar pastes, in which the sugar
recrystallised almost as soon as they were cold.
Recipes for the marmalades of homeĥgrown fruits other
than quinces appeared in the preserving books all through the
seventeenth century. The later ones show a somewhat softer
FRQVHUYHVWLOOGHQVHDQGVWLFN\EXWSRWWHGQRWER[HGPDGH
from such fruits as raspberries, mulberries, cherries, white or
red currants, gooseberries, apricots or damsons, and it was for
WKLVW\SHRIFRQVHUYHWKDWWKHQDPHµMDP¶ZDVFRLQHG
Apples, however, proved to have jelling qualities comparable
with those of quinces themselves, provided they were the right
kind of apples, not too sweet and not too ripe Ħ ‘the quickest
pippins when they are newlyĥJDWKHUHGDQGDUHVKDUS¶DV6LU
Kenelm Digby put it.1 Pippins were semiĥsweet apples, originally
raised from pips, and a number of varieties had been bred by the
seventeenth century. Marmalade of pippins was a preserve made
quite regularly then, to judge by its frequent appearances in recipe
books. Sometimes it was made from the pulp of the pippins,
and sometimes it was a jelly, produced from the juice strained
from pippins boiled in a little water. It was to provide a link
in the chain leading to the development of orange marmalade.
THE FIRST ORANGE MARMALADE
The Arabs brought orangeĥ and lemonĥtrees to southern Europe,
along with the methods of irrigation which allowed them to
ÀRXULVKWKURXJKUDLQOHVVVXPPHUVLQ6SDLQDQG3RUWXJDO6LFLO\
DQGVRXWKHUQ,WDO\DQGDIWHUZDUGVWREHDUIUXLW7KHRUDQJHV
were bitter, of the type of the Seville orange. Sweet orange ĥ
trees grew even then, near the coasts of Palestine at the eastern
end of the Mediterranean, but they bore inferior and tasteless
RUDQJHVDQGZHUHOLWWOHYDOXHG(YHQWXDOO\LQWKHHDUO\VL[WHHQWK
century, the Portuguese were to bring back from further east a
ÀDYRXUIXOVHPLĥVZHHWRUDQJHĪNQRZQLQ(QJOLVKDVD3RUWLQJDOOī
and a hundred years later the true, sweet, China orange. But the
orange of the Middle Ages was bitter, its sour juice welcomed as
42
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
a relish and in sauces. The peel was not wasted. The Arabs had
also introduced sugarĥcane in the orangeĥgrowing regions of the
West. With sugar, orangeĥ and lemonĥpeels could be conserved
either dry or in syrup, to be kept for culinary or medicinal use,
with their bitterness and sharpness mitigated, while their tangy
ÀDYRXUZDVUHWDLQHGLQDPRUHGHOLFLRXVIRUP
Both sugar and the succade made with citrus peels or whole
IUXLWVZHUHH[SRUWHGWRWKHQRUWKHUQ(XURSHDQFRXQWULHV7KH
bitter oranges themselves, along with lemons, also arrived there,
UDUHDQGFRVWO\DW¿UVW%XWE\WKHHQGRIWKH0LGGOH$JHVWKH\
were becoming more plentiful, and were sold at prices within
reach of both the wellĥtoĥdo and the folk of the middling sort.
The orangeĥjuice supplied sour sauces, and the peels were also
welcomed, since they could be turned into homeĥmade succade,
both delectable and healthĥpromoting.
As the technique of making marmalade from quinces or any
RWKHUIUXLWVEHFDPHEHWWHUNQRZQGXULQJWKHVL[WHHQWKFHQWXU\LW
ZDVDSSOLHGWRRUDQJHVWRRDQGVRPHRIWKHHDUOLHVW(QJOLVKUHFLSHV
show signs of a southern origin. Thus the recipe for ‘Conserve
RIRUDQJHV¶LQ$:¶VBook of Cookrye, RɱHUVDPHWKRGRI
making it by soaking and boiling oranges in water to remove
their bitterness, and then beating them small with a spoon.
Then, ‘put to every pound of oranges one pound of sugar and
KDOIDSRXQGRIURVHZDWHUDQGERLOWKHPWRJHWKHUDQGER[WKHP¶
The peel of Seville oranges is rich in pectin, so this confection
would have had something of the jellied quality associated
with quince marmalade, and it may have been even more solid.
Sir Hugh Plat, in Delightes for Ladies, H[SODLQHGKRZ
µ7RSUHVHUYHRUDQJHVDIWHUWKH3RUWXJDOOIDVKLRQ¶+HUHZKROH
oranges are prepared and put into a sugar syrup, in the manner
of wet sucket.21H[WRIWKHPDUHEHDWHQDQGPL[HGZLWKVXJDU
WRDSDVWHZKLFKLVGLYLGHGXSDQGVWXɱHGLQWRWKHFHQWUDOFDYLW\
RIHDFKRIWKHRWKHUµ«DQGVRERLOWKHPDJDLQLQ\RXUV\UXS
then there will be marmalade of oranges within your oranges,
DQGLWZLOOFXWOLNHDKDUGHJJ¶Ĭ6HH5ĭ
ORANGE MARMALADE IN ENGLAND: THE BEGINNINGS
43
CHAPTER IV
MARMALADE
IN SCOTLAND:
THE BEGINNINGS
EARLY MARMALADES IN SCOTLAND
A
s the history of marmalade unfolded in Britain, it was
in England that the earliest initiatives were taken, in
importing quince marmalade and in the home production of
both quince and orange marmalades. During the eighteenth
century that situation was to change, for not only were the
Scots then making their own orange marmalade according
to recipes which paralleled those of England, but they were
also in the lead in introducing a new pattern for marmalade
consumption.
0DUPDODGH¶VUROHLQ6FRWODQGEHIRUHWKDWWLPHLVUDWKHU
REVFXUH0DU\4XHHQRI6FRWVPD\KDYHµLQWURGXFHG¶TXLQFH
marmalade to fellow Scots, but it was a foreign import which
initially must have come with her on the ship from Calais. It
was perhaps only the irresistible temptation of the famous
pun on her name which prevented its arriving under its French
designation of cotignac.1 Thereafter more quince marmalade was
GRXEWOHVVLPSRUWHGLQWR6FRWODQGIURPWLPHWRWLPHDVDOX[XU\
to be consumed at the Scottish court and among the gentry, but
little of it can ever have been made there.
Unlike the English gentlewomen of the southern counties,
few Scottish gentlewomen could produce marmalade from their
own garden quinces. The east coast and the hinterland were far
too cold to allow quince trees to bear fruit. Perhaps quinces
were raised successfully in a few great gardens near the west
coast, especially in the eighteenth century, when gardeners
had learned to protect tender fruit trees with heated walls and
53
similar devices. There are no records to tell us.2 Lady Castlehill,
who owned a fertile estate on the banks of the Clyde, certainly
KDGDTXLQFHPDUPDODGHUHFLSHLQKHUKRXVHKROGERRNRI
EXWZHUHWKH¿YHTXLQFHVLWUHTXLUHGJURZQLQKHUJDUGHQRU
EURXJKWWRKHUE\YLVLWRUVIURPIXUWKHUVRXWKRUZDVWKHUHFLSH
VLPSO\FRSLHGIURPDVRXWKHUQIULHQG":KDWHYHUWKHDQVZHULW
LVVLJQL¿FDQWWKDWWKHHLJKWHHQWKĥcentury cookeryĥbooks printed
and published in Scotland either omit quince marmalade, or
include a single token recipe, in contrast to the two or three
quince marmalade recipes in most English cookeryĥbooks of
the period.
Early Scottish household books do contain some other
marmalades, however, for Lady Castlehill has marmalade
RIJRRVHEHUULHVDQGPDUPDODGHRIZDUGHQVĪSHDUVīDQG0UV
McLintock published recipes for marmalade of apples and
marmalade of gooseberries in 1736. These marmalades, at least,
FRXOGKDYHEHHQPDGHZLWKRXWGLɷFXOW\IURPORFDOO\ĥgrown fruits.
2UDQJHVZHUHDGLɱHUHQWPDWWHU7KH\KDGEHHQFRPLQJLQ
E\VHDVLQFHWKHHQGRIWKH¿IWHHQWKFHQWXU\7KHLU¿UVWPHQWLRQ
occurs in the accounts of the Lord Treasurer which show a
payment of 3 shillings on 24 April 1497 ‘for bearing the appleĥ
RUDQJHVWRWKHKRXVHĬLQ/HLWKĭIURPWKHVKLS¶DQGRQHRI
pence ‘for one small barrel to send appleĥoranges to Falkland
DQG6DLQW$QGUHZVWRWKH.LQJ¶7KH6SDQLVKDPEDVVDGRUZDVLQ
Scotland in 1497 to negotiate a peace between King James IV of
Scotland and King Henry VII of England, and the oranges may
have arrived on the same ship.3 ‘AppleĥRUDQJHV¶WUDQVODWHVWKH
medieval Latin terms for oranges, mala arancia and pomarancia.
Further shipments of oranges and lemons reached Leith,
Edinburgh and Glasgow from time to time, though they
would hardly have arrived there in such large numbers as they
did at Bristol or London. But by the end of the seventeenth
century they were being purchased not infrequently for gentry
KRXVHKROGVĪRUDQJHVFRVWGĪXQGHUSīDQGOHPRQVGĪRYHUSī
each, and orangeĥSHHOIURPWKHFRQIHFWLRQHUVVGĪQHDUO\
54
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
CHAPTER V
ORANGE MARMALADE:
THE YEARS OF
EXPANSION
ENGLISH MARMALADE: DESSERT SWEETMEAT
INTO BREAKFAST FARE
T
he two principal varieties of orange marmalade, the beaten
RUµVPRRWK¶DQGWKHMHOOLHGZLWKVKUHGGHGSHHOERWKFRQĥ
tinued in vogue in England through the 1700s and into the
1800s. The latter type, which became known as transparent
PDUPDODGHKDGWKHYLVXDODGYDQWDJH(OL]DEHWK5DɱDOGJDYH
FDUHIXOLQVWUXFWLRQVWKDWWKH¿QDOERLOLQJRIWKHLQJUHGLHQWV
VKRXOGODVWIRUWZHQW\PLQXWHVµDQGLILWLVQRWFOHDUDQGWUDQVĥ
SDUHQWERLOLW¿YHRUVL[PLQXWHVORQJHUNHHSVWLUULQJLWJHQWO\
DOOWKHWLPHDQGWDNHFDUH\RXGRQRWEUHDNWKHVOLFHVZKHQ
it is cold, put it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses, tie them down
with brandy papers over them. They are pretty for a dessert of
DQ\NLQG¶Ĭ6HH5ĭ
The custom of serving marmalade as a dessert dish persisted
still longer. Mrs Rundell added to her recipes for beaten orange
PDUPDODGHDQGEHDWHQOHPRQPDUPDODGHLQWKHĪFRUUHFWHGī
edition of her A New System of Domestic Cookery the advice that
µWKH\DUHYHU\JRRGDQGHOHJDQWVZHHWPHDWV¶7KHLUUHFLSHVZHUH
SODFHGDORQJVLGHWKRVHIRURWKHUVZHHWGHVVHUWGLVKHVDQGWKH
general instruction given at the end of the book was that they
were suitable to be set out at the second course of a dinner. In
1807 this was still true.
0UV5XQGHOO¶VERRNZDVUHLVVXHGLQHGLWLRQDIWHUHGLWLRQ
almost yearly until the late 1830s, with her comments on
marmalade and on the appropriate foods for the two courses
unchanged. But by then other changes had taken place. The
63
old arrangement whereby all dishes were placed on the table to
form only two large courses was replaced at great dinners by the
service à la russe ĪVHYHUDOFRXUVHVZLWKLQGLYLGXDOLWHPVEURXJKW
WRWKHGLQHUVE\VHUYDQWVīDQGDWOHVVHURQHVE\IRXURUPRUH
VHSDUDWHFRXUVHV7KHGHVVHUWVWLOOIROORZHGWKH¿QDOFRXUVHEXW
it became simpler, comprising bowls or plates of fresh fruits,
preserved whole or sliced fruits, dried fruits and nuts, and ices.
And marmalade ceased to be a dessert sweetmeat.
But it had already begun to move into its new role in
England as well as in Scotland. In The Times of 24 March 1815
the following advertisement appeared:
Orange Marmalade Ħ the admirers of that admirable and
nutritious substitute for butter are respectfully informed
that they may be supplied with a very superior article at
VGĬź»ƅSĭDSRXQGE\56HZHOOSDVWU\ĥcook and
confectioner, 6 Tichborne Street, Golden Square and 239
3LFFDGLOO\GRRUVIURPWKH+D\PDUNHWOHWWHUVSRVWSDLG1
Marmalade was on sale in London, and in this case was being
specially made for a highĥFODVVFRQIHFWLRQHU6LJQL¿FDQWLQWKH
advertisement is the comparison between marmalade and butter,
for it indicates that the new trend towards treating marmalade
DVDµVSUHDG¶ZDVDOUHDG\XQGHUZD\0DUJDUHW'RGVLQWKHV
wrote of Scottish marmalade ‘prepared in large quantities for
H[SRUWDWLRQ¶QRGRXEWE\VHYHUDOGLɱHUHQWVPDOO¿UPVWKRXJK
QRQHZHUHWRSURYHWREHVXUYLYRUVDV.HLOOHUZDVDQGVKHVDLG
that the prepared and cutĥup oranges were ‘put at once into a
WKLQV\UXSDQGERLOHGIRUIURPIRXUWRVL[KRXUVDQGSRWWHG
LQODUJHMDUV¶6XFKSURORQJHGERLOLQJZRXOGKDYHZHDNHQHG
WKHSHFWLQVHWHYHQWKRXJKLWPD\KDYHGULYHQRɱPXFKRIWKH
additional moisture in the sugarĥV\UXSVRWKHH[SRUWHGPDUPDĥ
lades may well have been thinner than eighteenthĥcentury orange
marmalades and thus more amenable to spreading.
$JDLQ -RKQ *DOW¶V JHQWOH PRFNHU\ RI -HQQ\ 0DF%ULGH
and Mrs Pringle in The Ayrshire Legatees, 1821, suggests that
64
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
marmalade was quite easily obtainable in London at that
WLPH0LVV0DF%ULGHKDGJLYHQKHUIULHQGDSRWRIµPDUPDOHW¶
at Glasgow, ‘assuring me that it was not only dainteous, but
DFXULRVLW\DPRQJWKH(QJOLVK¶0UV3ULQJOHZDVERXQGIRU
London by sea, but she broke the marmalade pot in nailing
GRZQKHUER[RIDVVRUWHGSRVVHVVLRQVEHIRUHWKHYR\DJHEHJDQ
and thereafter it did great damage to her muslin gown packed
in paper, while the syrup from the marmalade even managed to
PL[LWVHOIZLWKWKHEULQHIURPKHUEXWWHUDQGWKHQWRVSRLOKHU
FKHHVHDVWKHVHDURFNHGWKHFRQWHQWVRIKHUER[
Galt was in the habit of showing Scottish visitors around
London, and the stories he garnered from some of the more
naive among them provided material for his novel. The point
of the present tale seems to be that marmalade was very far
from being a curiosity in contemporary London, and that the
accident and its sad consequences therefore need never have
happened.2
Marmalade continued as a popular conserve in England, with
its usage as a breakfast spread taking over from its former role as
dessert dish on the pattern already established for the Scottish
breakfast. Its appearance at the English dinnerĥtable became
FRQ¿QHGWRWKHPDUPDODGHWDUWOHWVVRPHWLPHVVHUYHGDWIRUPDO
dinners in the sweet course preceding the dessert, and to the
homelier marmalade puddings of the everyday family dinner.
ORANGE MARMALADE RECIPES: SOME NEW
DEVELOPMENTS
Beaten orange marmalade, which eventually became known
in some circles as English marmalade, in contrast to Scottish
chip marmalade, went out of fashion during the middle
decades of the nineteenth century. For a breakfast spread the
FKLSPDUPDODGHZDVSHUKDSVWKH¿UVWFKRLFHEXWZKHQDMHOO\
conserve was preferred then a clear, transparent marmalade with
DOLWWOH¿QHO\ĥcut peel or no peel at all became the usual kind.
ORANGE MARMALADE: THE YEARS OF EXPANSION
65
CHAPTER VI
HOMEĥMADE
MARMALADE
YESTERDAY AND TODAY
SEVILLE ORANGE MARMALADE
T
he basic principle of marmalade preparation is so simple Ħ
the dividing of the orange into its components, which are
separately boiled for appropriate lengths of time before being
reboiled with sugar until jelling point is reached Ħ that one might
H[SHFWWKHRSHUDWLRQWREHFRQWDLQHGZLWKLQDVLQJOHUHFLSHZLWK
no more than two or three variant versions. In fact, an amazing
number of combinations and permutations have been developed
IRUHDFKVWDJH,VWKHSHHOWREHVWULSSHGRɱDQGFXWXSDWWKH
beginning, or is it to be boiled, still attached to the pulp of the
halved or quartered or occasionally whole oranges, and shredded
RUFKLSSHGZKHQDOUHDG\VRIWHQHG",VWKHMXLFHWREHVTXHH]HG
out, held on one side, and added to the rest only at the last
ERLOLQJ"$QGZKDWDERXWWKHSXOS",VLWWREHLQFOXGHG",VLWWR
EHXVHGGXULQJWKHSUHSDUDWLRQRIWKHFRQVHUYHĪDVLWRIWHQLVIRU
jelly marmalade, when it is suspended in a muslin bag along with
WKHSLSVīDQGWKHQUHPRYHGDQGGLVFDUGHG"2ULVLWWREHSDUWRI
WKHPDUPDODGH"2ULVLWWREHGLVFDUGHGIURPWKHVWDUW"5HFLSHV
can be found to advocate each of these processes in combination
with some of the others, based on anything from three oranges
ĪDSSUR[LPDWHO\DSRXQGīWRVHYHUDOSRXQGVRIIUXLW
,WZRXOGEHDWKDQNOHVVWDVNWRWU\WRDQDO\VHHYHQDSURSRUĥ
tion of the numerous recipes of the past 150 years. But it is
interesting to take note of some of the changes that have taken
place in marmaladeĥmaking procedures in that time.
The initial harvesting of the Seville oranges in Spain has
moved back earlier in the year. Mrs Beeton wrote in 1861
78
that orange marmalade ‘should be made in March or April, as
6HYLOOHRUDQJHVDUHWKHQLQSHUIHFWLRQ¶+HUFRQWHPSRUDU\$QQH
Bowman, put the marmaladeĥmaking season ‘about February or
March, when the Seville oranges are plentiful and in the best
FRQGLWLRQ¶Harmsworth’s Household Encyclopaedia of 1923 echoes
Anne Bowman, saying, ‘February and March are the seasons
when marmalade is usually made, as Seville oranges are then
SOHQWLIXODQGFKHDS¶7RGD\WKHVHDVRQLVDWLWVKHLJKWLQWKH
second half of January, and those who wait into February may
¿QGWKDWWKH6HYLOOHRUDQJHVKDYHDOUHDG\GLVDSSHDUHGIURPWKHLU
JUHHQJURFHUV¶GLVSOD\V
The fruits we receive today are actually less mature than
those preserved by earlier generations. The skins of Seville
oranges thicken as the season advances, and the proportion
of skin to pulp and juice becomes higher. Since much of the
pectin of the bitter orange is stored in the white peel behind the
orange surface, lateĥseason orangeĥpeel supplied more pectin
and increased the setting quality of the marmalade. But it was
DOVRPRUHGLɷFXOWDQGWLPHĥconsuming to cut up. Today we
DGGH[WUDSHFWLQWRPDUPDODGHE\H[WUDFWLQJLWIURPWKHSLSV
either preĥsoaking them and adding their water, or tying them
up in a muslin bag to hang in the preserving pan while the
pulp and peel boil together. And we are able to incorporate
more water into our recipes as a result, and to produce more
marmalade.It is pectin which gives stability to the set of all
marmalades and jams. Chemically, pectin is composed of long
threadĥlike molecules and, during gel formation, these molecules
link loosely together into a threeĥGLPHQVLRQDOQHWZRUN,QPDUĥ
maladeĥmaking, the preliminary boiling or soaking of the pips,
pith, and peel releases the pectin but its setting property is
activated only when it is combined with sugar and fruit acid
during the final stage of marmalade ĥboiling. Even then the
balance is not always an easy one to achieve, for too much acid
can produce a rapid set and then cause the jelly to split easily
VRWKDWVXJDU\V\UXSµZHHSV¶IURPLWZKLOHWRROLWWOHDFLGGHOD\V
+20(Ħ0$'(0$50$/$'(<(67(5'$<$1'72'$<
79
setting, or even prevents it altogether. Again, too much sugar
or overĥcooking the preserve can make marmalade crystallise
during storage, while with too little sugar or with underĥcooking
the set is syrupy or the marmalade may begin to ferment or to
collect moulds.
During the earlier part of the nineteenth century, beaten
marmalade was still being made. As an alternative to chip
PDUPDODGHLWZDVJUDGXDOO\VXSHUVHGHGE\WKHFOHDUMHOO\PDUPDĥ
lades. These grew out of the eighteenthĥcentury transparent
marmalades with their clear shreds of Seville orange peel no
less than did chip marmalade. Margaret Dods in 1826 published
a recipe for a peelĥless transparent marmalade made only from
the fruitĥpulp, washed in a little water and strained, plus the
juice and a pound of sugar to each pint of liquid. ‘Use the skins
IRUFDQGLHGSHHO¶VKHVXJJHVWHG7RGD\WKHQDPHJLYHQWRWKLV
FRQVHUYHLVMHOO\PDUPDODGHDQGLWLVVWLɱHQHGZLWKSHFWLQH[WUDĥ
cted from the orangeĥSLSVDQGDOVRIURPWKH¿QHO\ĥshredded
peel. For both orange and grapefruit jelly marmalades lemonĥ
MXLFHLVDOVRDGGHGDWWKH¿QDOERLOLQJRIWKHOLTXLGZLWKVXJDU
to assist the set.
For chunky marmalade the preparation of the peel can be
a tedious job. Formerly, when beaten marmalade was made the
skins were always boiled soft before being submitted to the
SHVWOHDQGPRUWDU,QWKHFDVHRIFKLSRUVKUHGPDUPDODGHVSUDFĥ
tice varied, the orangeĥpeel being preĥboiled before it was sliced
in some cases but not in others. The commercial marmalade
SURGXFHUVZHUHWKH¿UVWWRVHHNZD\VRIVSHHGLQJXSWKHZRUN
.HLOOHU¶VUHFRUGVVKRZWKDW:HGGHUVSRRQ.HLOOHU\RXQJHU
EURWKHURIWKH-DPHVZKRIRXQGHGWKH¿UPGHVLJQHGDPDFKLQH
to cut up orangeĥpeel at the Dundee factory. The invention of
the mincing machine in the midĥnineteenth century brought
relief to some home marmaladeĥPDNHUVĪWKRXJKPLQFHGSHHO
GRHVQRWKDYHWKHDWWUDFWLYHDSSHDUDQFHRI¿QHO\ĥFXWSHHOī%XW
in due course the purposeĥbuilt marmaladeĥcutter was devised
and was a useful tool in households where marmalade was made
80
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
CHAPTER VII
THE MARMALADE
MARKET YESTERDAY
AND TODAY
STANDARDS AND VARIETIES
U
ntil the late 1960s, the market in Britain for factoryĥmade
marmalade was buoyant. The usual British cooked
breakfast of fried bacon and eggs, or sausage and bacon, or
boiled or scrambled eggs, or haddock, or kippers, preceded
by porridge or cereal, was completed with toast or bread and
marmalade. Those who did not consume a cooked breakfast
nevertheless often breakfasted on toast and marmalade, with
DQH[WUDµFRXUVH¶VXSSOLHGE\IUXLWRUIUXLWĥjuice. Many people
enjoyed homeĥmade marmalade, but others were happy to rely
on the manufactured marmalades they could purchase from
their grocers, marmalades which, during the twentieth century,
have been made to very high standards.
Standards have not always been so reliable. Food adulteration
had become a huge problem by the middle years of the nineteenth
century, eventually mitigated by the 1872 Adulteration of Food,
Drink and Drugs Act, and the 1875 Sale of Food and Drugs Act.
Those Acts were steered through Parliament only after years
of campaigning by the food quality reformers. One of them,
Arthur Hassall, published the results of his chemical analyses
of processed foods of every kind in two books titled Food and its
Adulterations and Adulterations Detected.
His comments on marmalade are revealing. In the earlier
book he wrote, ‘There is no doubt but that some of what
SURIHVVHVWREHUHDO³6FRWFKPDUPDODGH´FRQVLVWVRIDPL[WXUH
of sweet and bitter oranges, if indeed inferior ingredients do
QRWSDUWO\FRPSRVHLW¶1 In Adulterations Detected KHH[SDQGHGRQ
88
the theme: ‘Orange marmalade, which, when genuine, consists
only of the bitter or Seville orange, is frequently adulterated
with sweet oranges, with apples and turnips. We have been
informed that a species of swede of a yellow colour is much
used in the adulteration of orange marmalade. Lastly, we have
good authority for stating that partlyĥdecayed oranges and even
sucked oranges are used in the adulteration of this favourite
SUHVHUYHWKHVHVWDWHPHQWVUHVWXSRQWKHDXWKRULW\RIDQH\Hĥ
ZLWQHVV«7KHUHLVDNLQGRIWXUQLSWKHVHHGVRIZKLFKDUH
IUHTXHQWO\DGYHUWLVHGLQWKH³*DUGHQHU¶V&KURQLFOH´IRUVDOH
of a yellow colour, and which is called the orange turnip. We
know not to what use this can be put unless in the adulteration
RIRUDQJHPDUPDODGH¶2
In his analysis of nineteen marmalade samples, most supplied
by shops which have long since disappeared, several contained
H[FHVVLYHDPRXQWVRIFRSSHUDQGµWKHVHZHUHDGXOWHUDWHGZLWK
large quantities of a vegetable substance, most probably turnip
RUDSSOH¶,WLVLQWHUHVWLQJWKDWDSSOHVZKLFKKDGEHHQDFFHSWDEOH
in homeĥmade marmalades in the seventeenth century, and
sweet oranges, sometimes added to them in the eighteenth,
were regarded by Hassall as adulterants.
FlyĥbyĥQLJKW¿UPVRIWKHSHULRGDOVRWULHGWRWXUQWKHVXFFHVV
RI.HLOOHU¶V'XQGHHPDUPDODGHWRWKHLUDGYDQWDJHµ,WLVQHHGIXO
WRVSHDN«FDXWLRXVO\RIWKHPDUPDODGHRIFRPPHUFH¶ZURWH
-&-HDɱUHVRQµEHFDXVHWKHRPQLSUHVHQW'XQGHHPDUPDODGH
contains a large proportion of boiled carrot, a vegetable whose
VZHHWQHVVVSDUHVWKHPDQXIDFWXUHU¶VVXJDU ĥbarrel, and whose
PLOGÀDYRXULVORVWLQWKDWRIDOPRVWDQ\IUXLWZLWKZKLFKLWLV
combined. A very palatable carrot marmalade may be made of
boiled carrots, mashed and seasoned with a little lemonĥpeel
DQGOHPRQMXLFH¶3
In contrast to the producers of such inferior marmalades
ZHUHWKRVHRWKHU¿UPVZKRVHUHSXWDWLRQJUHZEHFDXVHRIWKH
¿QHTXDOLW\RIWKHLUSUHVHUYHV4 Many wellĥknown marmalade
PDQXIDFWXUHUVFDQWUDFHWKHLUKLVWRU\EDFNWR4XHHQ9LFWRULD¶V
THE MARMALADE MARKET YESTERDAY AND TODAY
89
reign and some of the marmalades produced then, such as
5REHUWVRQ¶V*ROGHQDQG6LOYHU6KUHGDQG&RRSHU¶V2[IRUG
have hardly changed since because the characteristics through
which they appealed to nineteenthĥcentury consumers are still
attractive to us today.52WKHU¿UPVKDYHLQWURGXFHGWKHLUPRVW
popular marmalades during the twentieth century. Marmalade
was in its heyday in the Edwardian era. It was then that Wilkin
of Tiptree were issuing priceĥlists describing no fewer than
27 marmalades, which must have included several different
kinds of Seville orange marmalade as well as those of other
FLWUXVIUXLWVĪDQGGRXEWOHVVDIHZRIWKHWUDGLWLRQDOQRQĥcitrus
PDUPDODGHVVXFKDVDSULFRWSHDFKDQGTXLQFHī5HFHQWO\
¿IWHHQGLɱHUHQW7LSWUHHPDUPDODGHVZHUHSURGXFHGWZHOYHRI
them based wholly or partly on Seville oranges. Lemon, lime
and grapefruit marmalades are also made, but are less popular
than the orange varieties.
Chivers Olde English, a coarse ĥ cut orange marmalade
introduced in 1907, was followed by other new marmalades.
&KLYHUV¶SULFHĥlists of the 1930s show an orange marmalade with
¿QHĥcut peel, an orange jelly marmalade, and also grapefruit
ĪRUHDUOLHUīOLPHDQGJLQJHUPDUPDODGHV5RVH¶VOLPH
marmalade likewise originated in the interĥwar years. Robertson
added thickĥcut orange marmalade to their Golden and Silver
Shred, and later introduced both ginger and lime marmalades.
,QDQDGYHUWLVHPHQWRI+DUWOH\RɱHUHGWKUHHGLɱHUHQW
orange marmalades Ħ Seville star, coarseĥcut and jelly Ħ and also
ginger marmalade.
Ginger marmalade is something of an anomaly, as ginger is
the only root to be incorporated in a conserve in recognisable
FKXQNVIRUWKHVDNHRILWVGLVWLQFWLYHWDVWHĪFDUURWVDSSHDULQ
some homeĥPDGHPDUPDODGHUHFLSHVEXWDUHSUHVHQWFKLHÀ\WR
JLYHEXONDQGVZHHWQHVVDQGWKHLUÀDYRXULVPDVNHGE\FLWUXV
IUXLWSHHODQGMXLFHī*LQJHUPDUPDODGHKDVEHHQPDGHDQGVROG
E\VHYHUDOPDQXIDFWXUHUVRYHUDQXPEHURI\HDUVDQGVLQFHWKH
gingerĥchunks are similar in consistency to chips of citrus fruit
90
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
CHAPTER VIII
TASTES IN
MARMALADE
YESTERDAY AND TODAY
QUINCE MARMALADE AND OTHER NONĥCITRUS
MARMALADES
M
armalade, ‘as is well known, is made from the Seville
RUELWWHURUDQJH¶1 So wrote Arthur Hassall in the 1850s,
proving that orange marmalade had by then become the norm
for most people and had ousted quince marmalade as the
best known and most regularly eaten form of the preserve.
Yet some people still fought a rearguard action on behalf of
TXLQFHPDUPDODGH$GR]HQ\HDUVODWHU$QQH%RZPDQ¶VThe
New Cookery Book claimed, ‘The most approved marmalades are
orange and quince, the welcome addition to English and Scotch
EUHDNIDVWWDEOHV¶
But by then quince marmalade was in decline, and its
consumption continued to wane. It remained in use mainly
among those countryĥdwellers in southern Britain with access
to quince trees, and those purchasers of marmalade who were
SUHSDUHGWRPHHWWKHH[WUDFRVWRIZKDWKDGEHFRPHDVSHFLDO
taste. For the growing populations of the industrial towns
orange marmalade was the obvious choice, for quinces were
not available to townspeople on any great scale, whereas Seville
oranges arrived each year at the ports and were distributed
countrywide by the railways.
7KHPDQXIDFWXULQJ¿UPVSURGXFHGTXLQFHPDUPDODGHRQ
a small scale, compared with their orange marmalade output.
It appears on a Crosse & Blackwell priceĥlist of 1884, where
LWLVRɱHUHGLQMDUVRIDVLQJOHXQLGHQWL¿HGVL]HSUREDEO\OE
ĪJPīZKHUHDVRUDQJHPDUPDODGHZDVWREHKDGLQHLWKHU
106
RU OEMDUVDQGFRVWIURPź»ƅGWRź»ƅGĪź»ƅ
ĦSīDSRXQGFRPSDUHGZLWKDSRVVLEOHGĪSīDSRXQGIRU
quince marmalade. Eventually the quince version was dropped
by those firms which specialised in citrus marmalades, and
quince preserves are now made mainly by those manufacturers
who also produce jams and conserves from other less common
fruits and berries.
During the twentieth century relatively few people have
grown their own quinces and turned them into home ĥmade
marmalades. But recently there has been a surge of interest in
preparing conserves from japonica quinces. The japonicas are
related to the true quince, and they are to be found in British
gardens today, grown for the sake of their red, orange or pink
ÀRZHUVIDUPRUHRIWHQWKDQWKHPRUHGHOLFDWHWUXHTXLQFHWUHH
Cydonia vulgaris.
Many nineteenthĥ and twentiethĥcentury cookeryĥbooks
give recipes for other nonĥcitrus fruit marmalades, though
the distinction between such marmalades and jam is not
very easy to make. Some of them, like the ubiquitous apricot
marmalade, had their origins in the days before the word
µMDP¶ZDVFRLQHG,WLVLQWHUHVWLQJWKDWDSULFRWPDUPDODGH
like quince and orange marmalades, had medicinal overtones.
Jane Austen mentioned it in Sense and Sensibility as a balm
IRURXWZDUGLQMXULHVLWµKDGEHHQVXFFHVVIXOO\DSSOLHGIRUD
EUXLVHGWHPSOH¶WRWKHVPDOOVSRLOWGDXJKWHURI6LU-RKQDQG
/DG\0LGGOHWRQĪLQWKHFRQWH[WLWPD\ZHOOKDYHEHHQDSSOLHG
LQWHUQDOO\DVZHOODVH[WHUQDOO\EXW0LVV$XVWHQOHDYHVWKDW
TXHVWLRQWRWKHUHDGHU¶VLPDJLQDWLRQī
0UV%HHWRQKDVDQDSULFRWPDUPDODGHUHFLSHĪKHURWKHU
WZRPDUPDODGHIUXLWVDUHTXLQFHDQGRUDQJHīDQG&URVVH
Blackwell had apricot and peach marmalades as well as apricot
and peach jams on their 1884 priceĥlist. Today the distinction
between the softĥfruit marmalades and jams of the same fruits
is virtually lost, and in any census of taste such marmalades
would be treated as jams.
TASTES IN MARMALADE YESTERDAY AND TODAY
107
TASTES IN ORANGE AND OTHER CITRUS FRUIT
MARMALADES
7RGD\WKH¿UVWPDUPDODGHTXHVWLRQLQPDQ\KRXVHKROGVLV
coarseĥFXWFKXQN\RUMHOO\"&KLOGUHQRIWHQSUHIHUMHOO\DQG
VRPHWLPHVLQVLVWRQUHPRYLQJDQ\¿QHĥcut peel that reaches
WKHLUWRDVWRUEUHDG&KLYHUV¶UHVHDUFKRQWKHVXEMHFWUHYHDOHG
a distinct adult consumer preference in the matter. More
older and male marmaladeĥeaters prefer the marmalades with
thickĥFXWSHHOPRUH\RXQJHUDQGIHPDOHRQHVSUHIHUWKHµ¿QHĥ
FXWV¶7KHYLHZWKDWDSUHIHUHQFHIRUFRDUVHĥcut marmalade is
SDUWLFXODUO\PDOHLVERUQHRXWE\WKHVW\OHRI)UDQN&RRSHU¶V
2[IRUGPDUPDODGHZLWKLWVH[FHSWLRQDOO\ODUJHZLGHÀDYRXUIXO
pieces of orange peel, for its initial success was in the very
masculine arena of the late nineteenth ĥ century university
DPRQJWKHGRQVDQGXQGHUJUDGXDWHVDQGVLQFHWKHQLWKDVEHHQ
WKHFKRLFHRIH[SORUHUVĦ taken by Scott to the Antarctic and by
Hillary to the heights of Everest. Nevertheless, recent research
E\5REHUWVRQ¶VKDVVKRZQWKDWWKHLUWUDGLWLRQDO*ROGHQ6KUHG
and Silver Shred marmalades nowadays have their greatest
appeal among the overĥVRIERWKVH[HVWKRXJK*ROGHQ6KUHG
is still the largestĥselling brand in the marmalade market.
The recognition of two distinct types of marmalade, allowing
for a preference one way or the other, can be traced back to
its earliest days. The quince version could be made either with
all the pulp of the fruit, when it became opaque from the
fruitĥVROLGVRUE\¿OWHULQJWKHMXLFHDIWHUWKH¿UVWERLOLQJDQG
UHERLOLQJZLWKVXJDUWR\LHOGDFOHDUMHOO\ĪRIWHQUHIHUUHGWRDV
TXLGRQ\RUTXLQFHMHOO\QRWDVPDUPDODGHDWDOOī7KHRUDQJH
and pippin marmalades of the seventeenth century were also
made with an equivalent variation in technique. In some recipes
DSSOHDQGRUDQJHSXOSZHUHLQFOXGHGLQWKH¿QLVKHGSURGXFWLQ
others, the apples were boiled in a little water and their juice
was then strained out for jelly, to which was added orange peel,
HLWKHUEHDWHQRUFXWLQWRORQJ¿QHVWULSV
108
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
CHAPTER IX
MARMALADE
IN THE WIDER WORLD
MARMALADE IN THE NEW WORLD: THE EARLY
CENTURIES
M
armalade travelled with European settlers to many newĥ
IRXQGODQGVIURPWKHVL[WHHQWKFHQWXU\RQZDUGV,WLV
XQOLNHO\WKDWLWZDVDFWXDOO\FDUULHGWKHUHH[FHSWLQYHU\VPDOO
amounts. But the colonists took with them the seeds of the
necessary fruitĥEHDULQJWUHHVDQGDOVRWKHUHFLSHVRIWKHKRPH
country, sometimes in printed books but more usually in the
manuscript household books on which emigrant housewives
depended not only for instructions on cookery and preserving,
but also for medical remedies in time of sickness.
The citrus fruits appear to have crossed the Atlantic earlier
than quinces, for Christopher Columbus took the seeds of
oranges, lemons, and citrons with him on his second voyage to
the West Indies in 1493. They grew readily there, and the trees
were abundantly fruitful. It is less certain when quinces were
introduced into the Portuguese and Spanish New World colonies
but they must have arrived soon afterwards. Thus there is every
OLNHOLKRRGWKDWTXLQFHPDUPDODGHPDGHDIWHUWKHIDVKLRQRIVRXĥ
thern Europe was consumed in some of those Portuguese and
6SDQLVKFRORQLHVGXULQJWKHVL[WHHQWKFHQWXU\QRWRQO\RQWKH
islands, but also on the South American mainland. Eventually
such marmalade came to be produced on a commercial basis.
$IDPRXVPDQXIDFWRU\RITXLQFHPDUPDODGHH[LVWHGLQ&XED
during the nineteenth century, for the conserve was then still
appreciated as a health food by North Americans, who favoured
115
Cuba as a place for convalescence and recuperation through the
period 1800Ħ1870.1
The citrus fruits too were conserved with sugar. Friar Joseph
de Acosta, a visitor to the Indies, returned to Spain to publish
his account of the islands in 1590. In it he wrote that, of all
the fruits introduced into them, the orange was ‘the one that
has most widely spread in the Indies, because I have not seen
DVLQJOHUHJLRQZKHUHWKHUHZHUHQRRUDQJHV«7KHSUHVHUYHV
of candied oranges which they make in the Indies are the best
WKDW,KDYHWDVWHGDQ\ZKHUH¶2 The orange conserves may well
have taken the form of the beaten orange and sugar pastes of
contemporary recipeĥbooks. If so, they may have lacked the
rosewater which went into the European versions, and have
tasted all the better without it. There is another possibility.
Sweet oranges had been planted in the islands, as well as the
bitter Seville types, and the sweet orange fruits may have been
FRQVHUYHG,IVRWKDWZRXOGLQGLFDWHDQHDUO\H[DPSOHRIWKH
SUHIHUHQFHRIVRXWKHUQ(XURSHDQVIRUVZHHWRUDQJHµPDUPDODGH¶
which they still retain today.
Citrus fruits were first brought to the North American
mainland in the midĥVL[WHHQWKFHQWXU\ZKHQVPDOO6SDQLVK
settlements survived for a time in Florida. Florida remained
Spanish until 1763, but only after 1822 did white American settlers
from further north arrive in any considerable numbers and they
found that bitterĥorange trees had naturalised themselves in
profusion there, along with some sweetĥorange trees.
At the time when the earliest English settlers reached North
America, they made their landfall much further north, and of
course knew nothing of the Florida oranges. They brought with
them the seeds of English fruit trees, including quinces, and the
¿UVWPDUPDODGHVRI1RUWK$PHULFDZHUHWKHUHIRUHPDGHIURP
the original marmalade fruit, the quince. Quince trees, and other
fruit trees of British origin, quickly established themselves.
After his second voyage to New England in 1663, John Josselyn
was able to report, ‘The quinces, cherries, damsons, set the
116
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
dames on work, marmelad and preserved damson is to be met
ZLWKLQHYHU\KRXVH¶3
Contemporary English recipes were used to make the
TXLQFHV LQWR PDUPDODGH 6RPH H[DPSOHV PD\ EH VHHQ LQ
Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery and Booke of Sweetmeats ĪD
seventeenthĥcentury manuscript which later came into the
KDQGVRI0DUWKD:DVKLQJWRQRI9LUJLQLDī+HUHVL[UHFLSHV
for preserving quinces, red, yellow or white, are followed by
VHYHQIRUTXLQFHPDUPDODGHUHGZKLWHRUµRUGLQDU\¶2WKHU
seventeenthĥcentury family manuscripts from Pennsylvania
and Connecticut contain similar recipe collections, both for
cookery and preserving, showing that the settlers in their early
\HDUVFOXQJWRWKHFXLVLQHRI%ULWDLQDQGZHUHVORZWRH[SORLW
the indigenous plantĥfoods of North America.4
Although the Florida orangeĥgroves remained unknown to
the Americans of New England, there was some trade in the
oranges and lemons of the West Indies and hence the possibility
of making orange marmalades and preserves. As in the case
of quince marmalade, the recipes for these had originated in
England. Martha Washington’s Booke of Sweetmeats includes just
one for orange marmalade, a typical seventeenthĥcentury recipe
using cooked, pounded orangeĥpeel, the pulp of pippins, and
sugar wetted with rosewater. A pippin jelly also appears there,
which has sliced candied orangeĥpeels and orangeĥ and lemonĥ
juice added to the appleĥMXLFHDQGWKLVLVFRPSDUDEOHWRWKH
pippin jellies of Restoration England.5Ĭ6HH5ĭ,QWKHVDPH
American book are recipes for quidonies made from the juices
of several different fruits jellied with sugar, and printed in
PRXOGVDQGWKHUHLVDµPDUPDOHW¶RIPXOEHUULHVRUUDVSEHUULHV
North American cookery continued to develop under
VWURQJ(QJOLVKLQÀXHQFHWKURXJKWKHHLJKWHHQWKFHQWXU\7KH
printed cookeryĥbooks then available were still the English ones
Ī+DQQDK*ODVVH¶VThe Art of Cookery ZDVHVSHFLDOO\SRSXODUīDQG
it was the end of the century before they even began to be
supplemented by books compiled by nativeĥborn Americans.
MARMALADE IN THE WIDER WORLD
117
partly out of nostalgia and partly because of the continuing
belief in its tonic properties. Today Frank Cooper can show, as
their most prized possession, a tin of their marmalade which
ZDVWDNHQWRWKH$QWDUFWLFRQ&DSWDLQ6FRWW¶VH[SHGLWLRQRI
1911Ħ12 and was recovered, still in perfect condition, by the
H[SHGLWLRQZKLFKUHWUDFHGKLVURXWHLQ
MARMALADE IN THE WIDER WORLD TODAY
It is time to take a brief look at the marmalade situation at the
beginning of the new millennium in some of the countries where
its earlier history has been recounted. The most noteworthy fact
to emerge from such a survey is that citrus fruit marmalades are
to be met with in all of them, but the position of Seville orange
marmalade as the principal form has been eroded.11
In the United States it was already losing ground to other
conserves during the nineteenth century, and several recipeĥ
books ignored it, giving instructions only for the making of
marmalades of nonĥcitrus fruits. When orange marmalade is
made there now, it is most often based upon sweet oranges,
DQGPRGHUQHGLWLRQVRI)DQQLH)DUPHU¶VIDPRXVFRRNERRNQR
longer recommend the ‘sour smoothĥVNLQQHG¶RUDQJHVRIWKH
nineteenthĥcentury recipe. The remaining wild orange groves of
Florida provide stocks for sweet oranges or other citrus fruits,
and huge numbers of sweet oranges are grown in the state.
California is also a major producer of sweet oranges and they
DUHUDLVHGRQDVPDOOHUVFDOHLQ/RXLVLDQD$UL]RQDDQG7H[DV
Travellers breakfasting in hotels and restaurants and aboard
DLUFUDIWDUHRɱHUHGVZHHWRUDQJHPDUPDODGHEXWRQO\DVDSRRU
third to grape jelly and strawberry jam, the preferred breakfast
preserves in North America today.
To plot in detail the pattern of marmaladeĥPDNLQJDQGFRQĥ
VXPSWLRQLQWKH8QLWHG6WDWHVRYHUWKHSDVW¿IW\\HDUVZRXOG
EHDQHQRUPRXVWDVNDQGKHUHLWLVRQO\SRVVLEOHWRFDVWDEULHI
impressionistic glance over it. A few enthusiasts still make their
MARMALADE IN THE WIDER WORLD
125
own marmalade, nowadays often from limes or lemons. But cans
of prepared Seville orange peel and pulp are occasionally to be
seen on supermarket shelves, as proof that such marmalade is
not totally ignored. In the southern states, golden jellies are still
produced from lemons or from combinations of sweet oranges,
grapefruits, and limes, and these are forms of jelly marmalade.
The imported English and Scottish marmalades also have
a role, often as a small foodĥgift. Although these marmalades
are widely purchased, they tend not to go into everyday use,
but to sit for long periods on the refrigerator shelf before a
suitable occasion can be found to broach them. It is probably
true to say that interest in Seville orange marmalade, apart from
the contents of the imported jars which perhaps achieve some
GLVWLQFWLRQDVDQHWKQLFIRRGVWXɱLVQRZDWDORZHEE
In Canada, by contrast, marmalade usage remains very close
to that of Britain. During recent years there has been some
decline in consumption because of changes in breakfast habits Ħ
again as in Britain. But each year, during the few weeks of their
season, the imported Seville oranges appear on sale, ready for
the use of the home marmaladeĥmakers. For those who prefer
to purchase it readyĥmade there are plentiful supplies of bitter
orange marmalade manufactured in Canada, while imported
marmalades from Britain can always be found at any good
groceryĥstore or supermarket, and from time to time marmalade
from other countries too, such as Spain and Australia. The
imported British marmalades include the wellĥknown lemon,
lime, and ginger varieties. Nowadays it is the older generation
ZKRDUHPRVWSDUWLDOWR6HYLOOHRUDQJHPDUPDODGH\RXQJHU
SHRSOHZLWKDVZHHWWRRWK¿QGLWVWDQJLQHVVWRRELWWHU%XW
there is still a strong predilection among Canadians for Seville
orange marmalade, eaten at breakfast with buttered toast or
µ(QJOLVKPXɷQV¶
The breakfast marmalade tradition of the British Isles has
also held strong much further south, in those West Indian
islands which were under British rule before they achieved
126
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
COOKERYĥBOOK
BIBLIOGRAPHY
7KHERRNVOLVWHGKHUHDUHWKHRQHVXVHGLQFRPSLOLQJWKHWH[WRIThe Book of
Marmalade. Place of publication is London, unless otherwise stated.
ABBOT, R., The Housekeeper’s Valuable Present,Ĭc.ĭ
The Accomplished Ladies Rich Closet of Rarities, 7th ed. 1715.
ACCUM, F., Culinary Chemistry, 1821.
ACTON, E., Modern Cookery in all its Branches, 1845. Newly revised and much
enlarged ed. 1855.
ALEXIS OF PIEDMONT Ī*LURODPR5XVFHOOLīThe Secrets of . . . Alexis of Piedmont,
1562.
BEETON, I., The Book of Household Management, 1861.
BORELLA, MR, The Court and Country Confectioner, 1770. New ed. 1772.
BOWMAN, A., The New Cookery Book, 2nd ed. 1869.
BYRON, M., May Byron’s Jam Book, 1917.
Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery, Ĭc. ĭ
Cassell’s Domestic Dictionary, Ĭc. ĭ
CASTLEHILL, LADY Ī0DUWKD/RFNKDUWīLady Castlehill’s Receipt Book: a Selection . . .
IURPD&ROOHFWLRQPDGHLQed. with intro. by H. Whyte, Glasgow, 1976.
CLELAND, E., A New and Easy Method of Cookery, Edinburgh, 1759.
A Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen, 1608.
COBBET, A., The English Housekeeper, QGHGĬc.ĭUGHG
A Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen, 1617.
DAWE, N.H., The Wife’s Help to Indian Cookery, 1888.
DIGBY, SIR K., 7KH&ORVHW2SHQHGed. A. Macdonnell, 1910.
DODS, M.Ī&,-RKQVWRQHīThe Cook and Housewife’s Manual, Edinburgh, 1826.
3rd ed., Edinburgh, 1828.
DUCKITT, H.I., Hilda’s ‘Where is it?’ of Recipes, 2nd ed. 1891.
FARMER, F., The Boston CookingĦSchool Cook Book, Boston, Mass., 1899.
FRAZER, MRS, The Practice of Cookery, Pastry, Pickling, Preserving . . . etc., London &
Edinburgh, 1791.
GLASSE, H., The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy, The Compleat
Confectioner, Ĭc. ĭ
Harmsworth’s Household Encyclopaedia, vol. 3, 1923.
HUISH, R., The Female’s Friend, and General Domestic Adviser, 1837.
138
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
KETTILBY, M.,
A Collection of above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick and
Surgery, 1714.
LEA, E.E., Domestic Cookery, 5th ed., Baltimore, 1853, reprinted as: A Quaker
Woman’s Cookbook, intro. W. W. Weaver, Philadelphia, 1982.
M., W., The Queen’s Closet Opened, 1655.
MACIVER, S., Cookery and Pastry, 3rd ed., Edinburgh, 1782.
MCLINTOCK, MRS, Receipts for Cookery and Pastrywork, Glasgow, 1736.
MARKHAM, G., The English Huswife, WKĪHQODUJHGīHG
Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery and Booke of Sweetmeats, transcribed and
annotated by K. Hess, New York, 1981.
MASON, C., The Lady’s Assistant, 1775.
PARTRIDGE, J., The Treasurie of Commodious Conceites, and Hidden Secrets, 1584.
PEARSON, I., Australian Cookery: Recipes for the People, Melbourne, 1894.
PLAT, SIR H., Delightes for Ladies, 1605.
PRICE, R., The Compleat Cook, FRPSLOHGĬIURP06ĭDQGLQWUR00DVVRQ
RAFFALD, E., The Experienced English Housekeeper, Manchester, 1769.
ROBERTSON, H., The Young Ladies School of Arts, 4th ed., York, 1777.
RUNDELL, M.E., A New System of Domestic Cookery, QGĪHQODUJHGīHG
RUTHVEN, LORD PATRICK, The Ladies Cabinet Opened, The Ladies Cabinet
Enlarged and Opened, 1654.
SALMON, W., The Family Dictionary, 2nd ed. 1696.
SMITH, E., The Compleat Housewife, 1727.
STEER, F.A. & GARDINER, G., The Complete Indian Housekeeper and Cook, new and
revised ed. 1909.
A True Gentlewoman’s Delight ĬIRUPHUO\DVFULEHGWR(OL]DEHWK*UH\&RXQWHVV
RI.HQWĭ
The True Way of Preserving and Candying, 1681.
9LFWRULD'HSDUWPHQWRI$JULFXOWXUH%XOOHWLQ0HOERXUQHĬV"ĭ
W., A., A Book of Cookrye, 1587.
WEBSTER, T., An Encyclopaedia of Domestic Economy, 1844.
The Whole Duty of a Woman, 1737.
WOOLLEY, H., The QueenĦlike Closet, 5th ed. 1684.
A Yorkshire Cookery Book, HG00*DVNHOO:DNH¿HOG
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
139
RECIPES
I. HISTORIC RECIPES
The recipes are numbered R 1, R 2, etc., and are referred to
LQWKHWH[WE\WKRVHQXPEHUV7KH*UHHN/DWLQDQGPHGLHYDO
French recipes have been translated, and the spelling of the
(QJOLVKUHFLSHVKDVEHHQPRGHUQLVHGH[FHSWLQWKHFDVHRI
headings, and of a few distinctive terms.
ĭ5Į0Ȅ/20(/,
67&(1785<$'
0ɉORPHOLwhich is also called NXGɜQRPHOL, is prepared from
&\GRQLDQDSSOHVĬTXLQFHVĭZKHQWKHVHHGVKDYHEHHQWDNHQ
out and the fruit thrust down into honey as hard as possible,
so that it is wedged solid. It will become soft after a year, like
wineĥhoney, and is suitable for the uses for which the latter is
prepared.
Dioscorides, De Materia Medica, 5.21.
ĭ5Į)25&<'21,7(6
7+&(1785<$'
+DYLQJUHPRYHGWKHVNLQIURPULSH&\GRQLDQDSSOHVĬTXLQFHVĭ
FXWWKHPXSLQWRYHU\VPDOO¿QHVKUHGVDQGWKURZDZD\WKH
KDUGSDUWLQVLGHĬLHWKHFRUHĭ7KHQFRRNLQKRQH\XQWLOWKH
pulp is reduced to half its measure, and as it cooks, sprinkle
¿QHĥground pepper over it.
Another method. Two pints of quince juice, a halfĥpint of
YLQHJDUWZRSLQWVRIKRQH\PL[WRJHWKHUDQGERLOGRZQXQWLOWKH
ZKROHPL[WXUHUHVHPEOHVWKHFRQVLVWHQF\RISXUHKRQH\7KHQ
WDNHFDUHWRPL[LQWZRRXQFHVRIJURXQGSHSSHUDQGJLQJHU
Palladius,2SXV$JULFXOWXUDH
140
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
ĭ5Į720$.(&21'2,*1$&
c
Take the quinces and peel them. Then divide into quarters, and
discard the eye and the pips. Then cook them in good red wine,
and then they are to be strained through a sieve. Then take honey,
and boil it for a long time and remove the scum, and afterwards
put your quinces into it and stir very well, and let it boil until the
honey is reduced at least to half. Then throw into it hippocras
SRZGHUĬLHSRZGHUHGVSLFHVVXFKDVFLQQDPRQQXWPHJDQG
JLQJHUXVHGWRÀDYRXUWKHVSLFHGZLQHFDOOHGµKLSSRFUDV¶ĭDQG
stir until it is quite cold. Then cut it into pieces and store them.
Le Ménagier de Paris, ed. G. E. Brereton &
-0)HUULHUĪ2[IRUGī
ĭ5Į&+$5'(48<1&(
c
Chardecoynes that is good for the stomach is thus made: take a
TXDUWRIFODUL¿HGKRQH\DQGRXQFHVRISRZGHURISHSSHUDQG
meddle them together, and then take 20 quinces and 10 wardens
ĬODUJHSHDUVĭDQGSDUHWKHPDQGWDNHRXWWKHNHUQHOVZLWKWKH
FRUHVDQGVHHWKWKHPLQFOHDQĬDOHĥĭZRUWWLOOWKH\EHWHQGHUDQG
then stamp them in a mortar as small as thou mayest and then
VWUDLQWKHPWKURXJKDVWUDLQHUDQGWKDWWKDWZLOOQRWĬJRĭZHOO
through put in again and stamp it oft and oft drive it through
a cloth or strainer, and if it be too dry put in half a saucerful
RUDOLWWOHPRUHĬRIZRUW"ĭIRUWRJHWRXWWKHRWKHUWKHEHWWHU
DQGWKHQSXWLWWRWKHKRQH\DQGVHWLWRQWKH¿UHDQGPDNH
LWWRVHHWKZHOODQGVWLUIDVWZLWKDJUHDWVWDɱDQGLIWKHUHEH
VWLUUHUVLWLVWKHEHWWHUIRUERWKLILWEHĬQRWĭVWURQJO\VWLUUHG
LWZLOOVHWĬVWLFNĭWRWKHYHVVHODQGWKHQLWLVORVWDQGVHHWKLW
WLOOLWĬEHĭVRGGHQWKLFNDQGWKHQWDNHLWGRZQRɱWKH¿UHDQG
when it is well nigh cold put in ź»ƇRXQFHRIJLQJHUDQGDVPXFK
RIFDQHOOĬFLQQDPRQĭSRZGHUHGDQGPHGGOHWKHPZHOOWRJHWKHU
ZLWKDVOLFHDQGWKHQOHWLWFRRODQGSXWLWLQDER[WKLVPDQQHU
RIPDNLQJLVJRRGDQGLILWĬLVĭWKXVPDGHLWZLOOEHEODFNLI
thou wilt make more at once, take more of each one after the
proportions, as much as thou list.
RECIPES
141
$QRWKHUPDQQHURIPDNLQJDQGLVEHWWHUWKDQWKH¿UVWIRU
to put in 2 parts of honey and 3 parts of sugar and then shall
this be better than the other, and in all other things do as thou
did before, for thou mayest well enough seeth thy quinces in
water, and it is good enough though thou put no wort thereto,
and if you wilt, thou mayest make it without wardens, but it is
the better with wardens.
The third manner of making is this, and is the best of all,
and that is for to take sugar and quinces alike much by weight,
and no honey nor pears and in all other things do as thou didst
before, and this shall be whiter than that other, inasmuch as the
VXJDULVZKLWHĬVRĭVKDOOWKHFKDUGHTX\QFHEH
A Leechbook, Royal Medical Society MS 136,
HG:5'DZVRQĪīĦ4, Nos. 156Ħ8.
ĭ5Į720$.('5,(0$50$/$'(2)3($&+(6
Take your peaches and pare them, and cut them from the stones,
DQGPLQFHWKHPYHU\¿QHO\DQGVWHHSWKHPLQURVHZDWHUWKHQ
strain them with rosewater through a coarse cloth or strainer
into your pan that you will seeth it in: You must have to every
SRXQGRISHDFKHVKDOIDSRXQGRIVXJDU¿QHO\EHDWHQDQGSXWLW
into your pan that you do boil it in: You must reserve out a good
quantity to mould your cakes or prints withall of that sugar, then
VHW\RXUSDQRQWKH¿UHDQGVWLULWWLOOLWEHWKLFNRUVWLɱWKDW
your stick will stand upright of itself, then take it up and lay it
in a platter or charger in pretty lumps as big as you will have the
moulds or prints, and when it is cold print it on a fair board with
sugar: and print thereon a mould or what knot or fashion you will,
and bake it in an earthen pot or pan upon the embers, or in a fair
FRYHUDQGNHHSWKHPFRQWLQXDOO\E\WKH¿UHWRNHHSWKHPGU\
Marmalade of Quinces or any other thing
Take the quinces and quarter them, and cut out the cores and
pare them clean, and seeth them in fair water till they be very
tender, then take them with rosewater and strain them, and do
as is aforesaid in everything. A.W., A Book of Cookrye Īī
142
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
ĭ5Į720$.(35,17('482',1,$&.(2)48,1&(6$
58%<(&2/285
Take two pounds of quinces, pared and cut in small pieces, and
put them into a posnet with three pints of fair water, and so
let them boil till they be tender, then put into them a pound
of sugar, and let it boil, till it come to his colour and thickness,
then print it with your moulds, you shall know when it is ready
to print by rolling a little upon the back of a spoon, and if you
VHHWKDWLWZLOOVWDQGDQGQRWUXQGRZQSULQWLWLQOLNHVRUW\RX
may make your quodiniacke of pippins, your pippins will hold
all the year.
A Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen Īī
ĭ5Į720$.($1(;&(//(170$50(/$7(:+,&+:$6*,9(148((1(
0$5<)25$1(:<($5(·6*,)7
7+&(1785<
Take a pound and half of sugar, boil it with a pint of fair water
WLOOLWFRPHWRWKHKHLJKWRI0DQXV&KULVWLĬDVZHHWPHDWĭWKHQ
take three or four small quinces, one good orange peel, both
YHU\ZHOOSUHVHUYHGDQG¿QHO\EHDWHQRXQFHVRIDOPRQGV
EODQFKHGDQGEHDWHQE\WKHPVHOYHV(ULQJXVĬVHDĥKROO\ĭURRWV
preserved, two ounces and a half, stir these with the sugar
till it will not stick, and then at the last put in of musk and
DPEHUĬDPEHUJULVĭGLVVROYHGLQURVHZDWHURIHDFKIRXUJUDLQV
of cinnamon, ginger, cloves and mace, of each three drams, of
oil of cinnamon two drops, this being done put it into your
0DUPHODWHER[HVDQGVRSUHVHQWLWWRZKRP\RXSOHDVH
A Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen Īī
ĭ5Į72 0$.( $127+(5 6257 2)0$50(/$7( 9(5< &20)257$%/(
$1'5(6725$7,9(72$1</25'25/$'<:+$762(9(5
7DNHRIWKHSXUHVWJUHHQJLQJHUVL[GUDPVRI(ULQJXVDQG
Saterion roots, of each an ounce and a half, beat these very
¿QHO\DQGGUDZWKHPZLWKDVLOYHUVSRRQWKURXJKDKDLUVHDUVH
ĬVLHYHĭWDNHRIQXWNHUQHOVDQGDOPRQGVEODQFKHGRIHDFKDQ
ounce, cocks stones half an ounce, all steeped in honey twelve
RECIPES
143
KRXUVDQGWKHQERLOHGLQPLONDQGEHDWHQDQGPL[HGZLWKWKH
rest, then powder the seeds of red nettles or rocket, of each one
GUDPSODQWDLQVHHGVKDOIDGUDPRIWKHEHOO\DQGEDFNRID¿VK
called Scincus marinus three drams, of diasaterion four ounces,
RIFDQWDULGHVDGGDGUDPEHDWWKHVHYHU\¿QHO\DQGZLWKWKH
RWKHUSRZGHUPL[LWDQGVRZLWKDSRXQGRI¿QHVXJDUGLVVROYHG
in rosewater, and boiled to sugar again, mingle the powder and
all the rest of the things, putting in leafĥJROGVL[OHDYHVRISHDUO
SUHSDUHGWZRGUDPVRLORIFLQQDPRQVL[GURSVDQGEHLQJWKXV
GRQHDQGZHOOGULHGSXWLWXSLQ\RXU0DUPHODWHER[HVDQGJLOG
it, and so use it at your pleasure.
A Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen Īī
ĭ5Į720$.(:+,7(-(//,('0$50$/$'(2)48,1&(6
/$7(57+&(1785<
Take your quinces and quoddle them tender, then take the juice
of grated quinces and wet your sugar, which must be the weight of
that quantity of quoddled quinces you do, and make a syrup, then
put in your quinces sliced thin and boil it apace till it will jelly.
Brotherton Library, University of Leeds MS 687, No. 78.
Reproduced by permission of the Librarian.
ĭ5Į7235(6(59(25$1*(6$)7(57+(32578*$//)$6+,21 Take oranges and core them on the side and lay them in water,
then boil them in fair water till they be tender, shift them in the
boiling to take away their bitterness, then take sugar & boil it
to the height of syrup, as much as will cover them, and so put
your oranges into it, and that will make them take sugar. If you
have 24 oranges beat 8 of them till they come to paste, with
DSRXQGRI¿QHVXJDUWKHQ¿OOHYHU\RQHRIWKHRWKHURUDQJHV
with the same, and so boil them again in your syrup: then there
will be marmalade of oranges within your oranges, and it will
cut like an hard egg.
Sir Hugh Plat, Delightes for Ladies Īī$
144
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
25$1*(0$50$/$'(6<583)253$1&$.(6ĭ&$1$'$Į
3
/4FXSRUDQJHPDUPDODGH3/4FXSZDWHUWDEOHVSRRQVEXWWHU
Melt marmalade in water over low heat, and cook until smooth.
Stir in butter. Serve warm.
RELISH FOR HONEYDEW MELON
When serving honeydew melon, remove pips from interior,
divide melon into slices, and spread the inside surface of each
with ginger marmalade.
PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS
SNOWDON PUDDING
R]ĪJPīVWRQHGUDLVLQVWDEOHVSRRQVFRUQÀRXUR]Ī
JPīVKUHGGHGVXHWR]ĪJPīIUHVKZKLWHEUHDGFUXPEV
SLQFKVDOWR]ĪJPīOHPRQPDUPDODGHR]ĪJPīVRIW
EURZQVXJDUHJJVWKHJUDWHGULQGRIOHPRQVDOLWWOHEXWWHU
Butter a 2 ź»ƅSLQWĪOLWUHīEDVLQDQGSUHVVWKHUDLVLQVWRWKH
EXWWHUDFURVVWKHERWWRPDQGDURXQGWKHVLGHV0L[WRJHWKHUWKH
FRUQÀRXUVXHWEUHDGFUXPEVVDOWOHPRQĥrind, marmalade and
sugar. Beat the eggs and combine with the other ingredients,
EOHQGLQJWKHPWRJHWKHULQWRDVPRRWKPL[WXUH)LOOWKHEDVLQ
cover with a wellĥEXWWHUHGVTXDUHRIIRLOPDNLQJDLQFKĪ
FPīSOHDWDFURVVWKHPLGGOHWRDOORZIRUH[SDQVLRQDQGWLH
LWGRZQ¿UPO\ZLWK¿QHVWULQJ6WHDPLQDWZRĥtier steamer
or a saucepan halfĥ¿OOHGZLWKZDWHUIRU ź»ƅKRXUV(QRXJKIRU
8 servings. Eliza Acton added the recipe for this pudding to
the enlarged edition of her Modern Cookery in 1855. Her own
comments were: ‘Half the quantity given above will fill a
mould or basin which will contain rather more than a pint, and
ZLOOEHVXɷFLHQWO\ERLOHGLQPLQXWHVOHVVWKDQDQKRXU7R
many tastes, a slight diminution in the proportion of the suet
would be an improvement to the pudding . . . This pudding is
constantly served to travellers at the hotel at the foot of the
PRXQWDLQIURPZKLFKLWWDNHVLWVQDPH¶
162
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
0$50$/$'(48((138'',1*
SLQWĪGFOīPLONJUDWHGULQGRIOHPRQR]ĪJPī
EUHDGFUXPEVR]ĪJPīEXWWHUR]ĪJPīFDVWHUVXJDU
HJJVVHSDUDWHGWDEOHVSRRQVRUDQJHPDUPDODGH3XWWKH
breadcrumbs into a bowl. Warm the milk gently, together with
the grated lemonĥrind, in a saucepan. Stir in the butter and 2
R]ĪJPīRIWKHVXJDU3RXUWKHOLTXLGRYHUWKHEUHDGFUXPEV
cover the bowl, and leave for 10 minutes. Beat up the egg yolks
DQGVWLULQWRWKHEUHDGPL[WXUH7XUQLWLQWRDEXWWHUHG¿UHSURRI
GLVKDQGEDNHDWƒ&Īƒ)īJDVPDUNIRUPLQXWHVRU
until lightly set. Warm the marmalade, and spread over the
breadĥ custard. Whisk the eggĥ whites until stiff, gradually
beating in the remaining sugar. Pile on top of the pudding,
and return it to the oven for a further 10Ħ15 minutes, until the
meringue is crisp and slightly brown.
MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI PUDDING
EUHDNIDVWFXSIXORIYHUPLFHOOLWDEOHVSRRQIXOVRIPDUPDODGH
ź»ƇOEĪJPīRIUDLVLQVVXJDUWRWDVWHHJJVPLON3RXUVRPH
boiling milk on the vermicelli, and let it remain covered for 10
PLQXWHVWKHQPL[ZLWKLWWKHPDUPDODGHVWRQHGUDLVLQVVXJDU
DQGEHDWHQHJJV6WLUDOOZHOOWRJHWKHUSXWWKHPL[WXUHLQWRD
buttered mould, boil for 1 ź»ƅKRXUVDQGVHUYHZLWKFXVWDUGVDXFH
I. Beeton, The Book of Household Management, 1861.
CHRISTMAS PUDDING
Replace part of the sugar in your favourite Christmas pudding
UHFLSH ZLWK PDUPDODGH )RU HDFK R] Ī JPī RI VXJDU
omitted, add 1 tablespoon of marmalade and 1 tablespoon of
breadcrumbs.
APPLE AND ALMOND TART
PastryR]ĪJPīSODLQIORXU ź»ƇWHDVSRRQVDOWR]Ī
JPīEXWWHU ź»ƅR]ĪJPīVXJDUHJJ\RONFilling: 1 ź»ƇOEĪ
JPīFRRNLQJDSSOHVMXLFHRIKDOIDOHPRQWDEOHVSRRQGULHG
RECIPES
163
GENERAL INDEX
Abbott, Richard, 58, 69
Acosta, Joseph de, 116
Acton, Eliza, 68, 83, 162
adulteration of foods, 88ĥ90, 93
Adulterations Detected, 88
Africa, 122, 127
$OH[DQGHUWKH*UHDW
All Gold marmalade, 127
aphrodisiac, marmalade as an, 38Ħ40
Apicius, 16, 18
apple marmalade or jelly, apples in
marmalade, 14, 16, 17, 19, 41, 42,
44, 46, 48, 54, 60, 70, 86, 89, 91,
108, 109, 111, 117, 118, 120, 151
apricot marmalade, 14, 42, 90, 107
Apuleius, 16
Arabs and Arabic cookery, 21, 22, 25,
40, 42, 43, 122
Arberry, A.J., 22
Arizona, 125
Art of Cookery, The, 48, 117
Austen, Jane, 107
Australia, 127Ħ8, 132
Australian Cookery: Recipes for the People,
123, 149
Ayrshire Legatees, The, 64
Baghdad cookeryĥbook, 22
Baluchistan, 21
bananaĥskin marmalade, 86
µEDQTXHWWLQJVWXɱ ¶Ħ36, 38, 45
%D[WHU*HRUJHDQG0DUJDUHW
%D[WHU:LOOLDP
%D[WHU¶V PDUPDODGH ZKLVN\PDUPDODGH
beaten marmalade, 43Ħ44, 48, 50,
56Ħ58, 61, 63, 65Ħ66, 69Ħ70, 80,
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
108Ħ109, 111, 118, 123
Beeton, Isabella, 67, 78, 107, 121, 163
Bestfoods Ltd, 104
ELRÀDYLQRLGV
Blunt, Anthony J. G., 94Ħ95
Book of Breakfasts, The, 151
%RRN RI &RRNU\H$ ī$:Ĭ 15, 31, 41,
43
Book of Household Management, The,
67, 163
Boorde, Andrew, 50
Boots the Chemist diabetic marmaĥ
lade, 111
Borella, Mr, 68
Boston, Massachusetts, 40
Boston Cooking School Cook Book, The,
120
Boswell, James, 59
Botswana, 127
Bowman, Anne, 79, 106
ER[HV IRU PDUPDODGH Ħ33, 35,
38Ħ40, 42Ħ44, 47Ħ48
Bradford, Yorkshire, 74
breakfast spread, marmalade as a,
51, 58Ħ69, 73, 88, 100, 112, 118,
120Ħ126, 138Ħ130
brick of marmalade, 31
Byron, May, 84Ħ85, 99
Cadbury Schweppes plc, 91, 129
California, 125
&DQDGD see also North
American marmalade
cans, 77, 99, 102, 126
Cape Colony, 122, 123
carrots in marmalade, 89Ħ90
Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery, 160
171
Cassell’s Domestic Dictionary, 113
Castel of Helth, The, 36
Castell & Brown, 70
Castlehill, Lady, 54, 56
Cato, 16
chardequynce, 19Ħ26, 28, 31, 37, 50
Charles II, King, 46
Cheergrey Ltd, 104
China or sweet oranges, 42, 68,
125Ħ126
China orange marmalade, 68, 116
chip marmalade, 46, 50, 58Ħ61, 65Ħ66,
80, 109
Chivers, William, Stephen and John,
74
Chivers & Sons Ltd, 74, 97, 104, 108,
/HPRQ6KUHGPDUPDODGH
2OGH (QJOLVK PDUPDODGH
7DQJ\ 2UDQJH
marmalade, 110
Chivers Hartley, 104
cider marmalade, 120
cidonitum, 15Ħ19, 20, 22, 38
citron marmalade, 121
citronella marmalade, 128
Clarence, George, Duke of, 28
Cleland, Elizabeth, 57, 61
Closet for Ladies and Gentlewomen, A,
38Ħ39, 143Ħ144
Cobbett, Anne, 67, 148
codiniac, 27Ħ30
Collection of above Three Hundred
Receipts, A, 48Ħ49, 146
Columbus, Christopher, 115
Columella, 16, 17, 19
condoignac, 20, 22, 23, 26
Connecticut, 117
consumption, patterns of, 100Ħ104,
ɱ
Cook and Housewife’s Manual, The, 59
Cookery and PastryĦwork, 67, 146
Cooper, Frank, & Co, 11, 92, 100, 104,
2[IRUGPDUPDODGHĦ73,
90, 92, 94, 97, 100, 104, 108, 113
Cooper, Sarah Jane, 72
172
cotignac, 30, 33, 47, 53
&RWWHH¶V 0RQEXON PDUPDODGH 5RVH¶VPDUPDODGH
CPC Ltd, 104
Crabtree & Evelyn, 101
Crete, 17
Cromwell, Thomas, 29
Crosse & Blackwell, 70, 76, 83, 97, 99,
105, 106, 107
Cuba, 115, 116, 120
Culpeper, Thomas, 51
cumquat marmalade, 86, 92, 128
Cydonian apples, 17
'DLO\ ([HUFLVH IRU /DGLHV DQG *HQWOHĦ
women, A, 44
Dawe, N.H., 148
De Materia Medica, 140
Delightes for Ladies, 43, 144Ħ145
Denmark, 111
Descastro & Peach, 70
dessert dish, marmalade as a, 50,
63Ħ65, 110, 118, 120, 131
diabetic marmalades, 111
diacitonium, 38
Dictionary of Daily Wants, 151
Digby, Sir Kenelm, 42, 45, 46
Dioscorides, 16Ħ18, 21, 23, 40, 140
Dods, Margaret, 59, 60, 64, 66, 80,
83, 124,
Domestic Cookery, 118, 148
Droylsden, Manchester, 72, 105
Duckitt, Hildagonda, 122
Dudley, Lord Robert, 35
Duerr, F., & Son, 11, 73, 74, 96,
6LJQDWXUH
marmalade, 96
Duerr, Fred and Mary, 74
Dundee, 60Ħ62, 72, 80, 105
'XQGHHPDUPDODGHsee also Keiller,
James, & Son
Dymoke, Sir Edward, 31
Edinburgh, 54
Elsenham Quality Foods, 76, 91, 96,
YLQWDJH DQG OLTXHXU
marmalades, 94Ħ96
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
Elyot, Sir Thomas, 36, 50, 58
Encyclopaedia Britannica, 84
Encyclopaedia of Domestic Economy,
An, 68
English Housekeeper, The, 67, 148
English Huswife, The, 44
Euphrates, River, 21
(XURSHDQ8QLRQĪ((&(8ī
100, 101, 110, 111, 132
([HWHU
Experienced English Housekeeper, The,
147
H[SRUWRIPDUPDODGH
124, 129, 131
Falkland, Fife, 54
Family Dictionary, The, 25, 51
Farmer, Fannie, 120, 121, 125
¿JVĦ17
Fiji, 130
Flat Seville orange, 128
Florida, 116, 117, 120, 125
Fochabers, Morayshire, 71
Food and its Adulterations, 88
Fortnum & Mason, 76, 91, 92, 96,
6LU 1LJHO¶V9LQWDJH 2UDQJH
marmalade, 94
France, 22, 30, 46, 47, 124
Frazer, Mrs, 61, 81
IUXLWµPDUPDODGHV¶HDUO\Ħ42
Galen, 18, 23
Galt, John, 64ĥ65
Garden of Health, The, 37
Genoa, Italy, 25, 31
Gerard, John, 25, 37
Germany, 14
Gilbey, Sir Walter, 76
ginger marmalade, 91Ħ91, 96, 126
Gladstone, W. E., 75
Glasgow, 54, 56, 65
Glasse, Hannah, 48, 57, 61, 117,
golden jelly, 126
gooseberry marmalade, 42, 48, 54
Gordon Castle, 71
grapefruit marmalade, 75, 80, 85,
90Ħ92, 101, 105, 121, 126Ħ130
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
Greece, Queen of, 124
Greek marmelada, 14
Green, Henrietta, 98
Grett, William, 29
Guernsey, 72
Hale, W., 70
Harden, L. P., 155
Harmsworth’s Household Encyclopaedia,
79, 82
Harrison, William, 36
Hartley, W. P., 71, 90Ħ91, 104 111
Harvey, Gabriel, 38
Harvey Nichols plc, 101
Hassall, Arthur, 70Ħ71, 88Ħ89, 106
health foods, 113Ħ115
Henrietta Maria, Queen, 45
Henry VII, King, 54
Henry VIII, King, 29Ħ30
Herball, The, 8, 25, 55
Heywood, Lancashire, 74
Hillary, Sir Edmund, 108
Hillsdown Holdings, 104
Histon, Cambridge, 74, 104
Hogge hath lost his Pearl, 39
honey, 15Ħ24, 34, 36, 59, 101
Hong Kong, 130
Housekeeper’s Valuable Present, The,
58, 69
Hull, ĦĦĦRI([HWHU
Hutchinson, P., 155
India, 122Ħ125
Ireland, 124
Isidore of Seville, 20
Italian marmellata, 14, 20
Italy, 14Ħ16, 26, 29, 42, 83
jam, 12Ħ13, 42, 69, 71, 74Ħ76, 84, 91,
98, 101, 107, 110, 112, 118, 121, 124,
125, 129, 132
Jam Book, 84
Jamaica, 75, 83
James IV, King of Scotland, 54
japonica quince marmalade, 107
jars, 16, 47Ħ48, 58, 64, 70, 74, 76, 83,
99Ħ102
-HDɱUHVRQ-&
173
Jedburgh, 37
jelly marmalade, 65, 71, 78, 80, 85, 90,
91, 96Ħ98, 108Ħ110, 126
Johnson, Rev Richard, 123
Johnson, Samuel, 59
Jopson, Sir William, 51
Josselyn, John, 40, 116
.HLOOHU$OH[DQGHU
Keiller, James, 60, 61, 70
Keiller, James, & Son, 60Ħ65, 71Ħ72,
80, 89, 91, 99, 104Ħ105
Keiller, Janet, 60Ħ61
Keiller, John, 60Ħ63
Keiller, Wedderspoon, 80
Keiller, William, 72
Kelly, William, 124
Kettilby, Mary, 48, 49, 56, 146
Kilmardinnie, Strathclyde, 62
NXGRÚQLWHÚV17, 18
/DFNHUVWHHQ¶VPDUPDODGH
Ladies Cabinet Opened, The, 32
Langham, William, 37
La Varenne, François Pierre de,
30, 47
Lea, Elizabeth Ellicott, 118, 120, 148
LeCoop, Dr, 37
Lee, Richard, 30
Leechbook, A, 142
Leith, Midlothian, 54, 56, 61
lemon marmalade, 81, 83, 90, 91, 105,
110, 112, 118, 120, 121, 123, 126Ħ 128,
lemons, pickled, 56
Lesotho, 127
lime and lemon marmalade, 91
lime marmalade, 75Ħ76, 83, 84, 90Ħ91,
121, 122, 126Ħ128, 130
liqueur marmalade, 94Ħ96
Lisle, Lord and Lady, 28Ħ30, 37
London, 27, 28, 35, 54, 58, 61, 64, 65,
70, 72, 105, 122, 124
Louisiana, 125
lozenge, 22
Machin, Henry, 35
Macintosh, William, of Borlum, 58
MacIver, Susanna, 57, 61, 66
174
McLintock, Mrs, 48, 54, 56, 61, 146
McNeill, F. M., 60, 72, 131, 151, 160
malomellus, 20
Malta, 83
mandarin marmalade, 83, 85, 127Ħ128
marketing, 96Ħ105
Markham, Gervase, 44
marmalade cutter, 61, 80, 82
marmalade de coings, 30, 47
marmaladeĥmadams, 40
marmelada, 14, 15, 17, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 132
marmelado, 27Ħ29
marmelo, 13, 15, 17, 20
Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery,
38, 117, 145
Martial, 17Ħ18
Mary I, Queen, 39
Mary, Queen of Scots, 37, 53
Mason, Charlotte, 67
Massinger, Philip, 39
PDZPHQ\ĪSRWWDJHī
medicinal marmalade, 18, 20, 21, 29,
35Ħ38, 40, 43, 50, 58, 107, 118
Melbourne, Australia, 124, 129
PHÚORPHOL15Ħ17, 19, 20
membrillo, 20, 31, 37
Ménagier de Paris, Le, 20, 141
Meredith, Louisa Anne, 127
Middleton, Lord, 29
Middleton, Thomas, 39
minneola, 86
Montpellier Plantation Inn, Nevis,
127
0RRU¿HOGV/RQGRQ
Moorhouse, Wm, & Sons, 76, 104
moulds for marmalade, 24, 31Ħ33
PXOEHUU\µPDUPDOHW¶
Nearchos, admiral, 21
Negri & Gunter, Messrs, 69
1HVWOpSOF
New Caledonia, 131
New Cookery Book, The, 106
New England, 117
New South Wales, 128
New System of Domestic Cookery, A, 63
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
New Zealand, 123, 128Ħ130
North American marmalade, 115Ħ125
Old English Cookery, 155
Old English marmalade, 70
Old Northern Recipes, 168
Opus Agriculturae, 140
orange and rhubarb marmalade, 121
orangeĥ and lemonĥpeel, 43Ħ51, 54,
56Ħ58, 61, 63, 65Ħ69, 73, 78Ħ81, 83,
86Ħ87, 89Ħ90, 94, 96, 98, 108Ħ110,
113, 117Ħ118, 120, 123, 126
organic marmalade, 111
ortanique marmalade, 86
2[IRUG
packaging and labelling, 99Ħ102
Paget, Lady, 46
Paisley, Strathclyde, 71
Palladius, 18, 20, 140
Paris, 22
Parramatta river, 123, 128
Partridge, John, 15, 41
Paul of Aegina, 18
peach marmalade, 14Ħ15, 41, 90Ħ91,
107, 118
pear marmalade, 54, 118
pears, 23, 24, 41
Pearson, J., 123, 149
pectin, 18, 19, 23, 32, 33, 41, 43, 46, 47,
50, 58, 64, 67, 68, 79, 80, 83, 85, 87,
91, 93, 98, 110, 111, 130
peel, see orangeĥ and lemonĥpeel
Pembroke College, Cambridge, 74
Pennsylvania, 117, 120
pepper, 18
Pepys, Samuel, 33
Persia, 21, 122
Peter de Luna, Antiĥpope, 27
Petre, Sir William, of Ingatestone,
31, 38
Philip II, King of Spain, 39
pineapple marmalade, 118, 130
pippin marmalade or jelly, 42, 44, 46,
47, 48, 51, 56, 81, 108, 117
Plat, Sir Hugh, 32, 33, 43, 66, 81,
144, 145
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
Pliny, 17, 21
pomelo marmalade, 83, 86, 121
3RRO¶Vµ0L[¶Q¶0DGH¶
Poorman orange, 128, 129
Portingall orange, 42
Portugal, 15, 20, 22, 25Ħ27, 42, 43, 66
Portuguese marmelada, 15, 17, 20, 22,
24, 27
pots, see jars
Poulson, J., 168
pressureĥcooker, 87
Price, Rebecca, 47
production and marketing, 96Ħ105
Queen’s Closet Opened, The, 45, 51
quidony, 18, 30, 33, 38, 108
quince marmalade, 14Ħ20, 24Ħ26, 29Ħ33,
36Ħ40, 43, 46Ħ47, 50, 53Ħ54, 67, 90,
106Ħ108, 115Ħ118, 123
quince trees, 118
Raasay, Isle of, 59
5DɱDOG (OL]DEHWK 147
Rank Hovis McDougall, 104
UDVSEHUU\µPDUPDOHW¶
reducedĥsugar marmalades, 101, 110,
111, 113
rhubarb and orange jam, 121
Richmond & Gordon, Duke of, 71
5LOH\0UVRI:DNH¿HOG
Robertson, Hannah, 67, 147
Robertson, James, 71
Robertson, James, & Sons, 71Ħ72, 92,
*ROGHQ DQG
Silver Shred marmalades, 71,
7RGD\¶V 5HFLSH
marmalade, 101
Robertson, Marion, 71
Rodinson, Professor N., 22
Rose, L. & Co, 76, 90, 91, 104, 127,
OLPHPDUPDODGH:HVW
Indian marmalade, 91, 127
rosewater, 22, 25Ħ26, 29Ħ31, 33, 39 Ħ40,
43Ħ44, 48, 109, 116, 117
Rundell, Mrs Eliza, 63, 83
Russia, Czarina of, 124
175
Ruthven, Lord Patrick, 32
Salmon, William, 25, 51
satsuma marmalade, 85, 101
Savile, Margaret, of Methley, 145
Scandinavia, 14
Schweppes Ltd, 91, 104
Scots Kitchen, The, 160
Scott, Captain Robert Falcon, 108, 125
Scott, Sir Walter, 62
Scottish marmalade, 48, 53Ħ71, 83,
94, 118, 123
Secrets of Alexis of Piedmont, The, 25, 41
Sense and Sensibility, 107
Seville oranges, and marmalade, 42,
43, 47, 50, 57, 61, 68, 71, 74, 78Ħ81, 86,
89Ħ92, 94, 96, 105Ħ106, 109Ħ110, 112,
116, 118, 120Ħ122, 124Ħ132
Sewell, R., 64
Sicily, 42, 83
Silvertown, London, 72
6NLQQHUV¶&RPSDQ\RI/RQGRQ
Smith, Eliza, 57, 61
Snowdon pudding, 83
sorbitol, 111
South Africa, 122, 127
Southampton, 28
Southern Cookbook, The, 155
Spain, 15, 20, 25Ħ27, 29, 39, 42, 78, 92,
98, 116, 126
Spain, Queen of, 124
St Andrews, Fife, 54
Streamline marmalade, 111
VXFFDGH ĪVXFNHWī Ħ29, 34Ħ36, 39,
43, 50
sugar, 14, 15, 20Ħ26, 32, 36, 38Ħ43, 56,
60, 69 Ħ 72, 76, 85 Ħ 86, 89, 101,
109Ħ114
Sydney, Australia, 123, 129
Tailor, Robert, 39
tangelo marmalade, 86, 130
tangerine marmalade, 75, 83, 85, 86,
91, 112, 121, 127,
tea, 58Ħ60
7H[DV
threeĥfruits marmalade, 91, 105, 111
176
Thurgood, Ian, 132
Tigris, River, 21
Tiptree, see Wilkin of Tiptree
tomato marmalade, 120
transparent marmalade, 57Ħ58, 63, 65,
68Ħ69, 71, 80, 109
Treasurie of Commodious Conceites,
The, 15, 41
True Gentlewoman’s Delight, A, 44
True Way of Preserving and Candying,
The, 48
turnip in marmalade, 18, 70, 89
ugliĥfruit marmalade, 86
United States of America, 75, 99,
125Ħsee also North American
marmalade
vacuum sealing, 100
Valencia, Spain, 25, 31
Venice, 22
Victoria, Australia, 128Ħ129
vintage marmalade, 91, 94Ħ96
vitamin C, 51, 52, 113
Walkington, Thomas, 38
Ward, Edward, 40
Warham, William, Archbishop of
Canterbury, 34
Webster, Thomas, 68
West Indies, 83Ħ85, 115, 117, 121
whisky, 58Ħ59
whisky marmalade, 94Ħ96
white marmalade of quinces, 32Ħ34
Whole Duty of a Woman, The, 48
Whole Earth marmalade, 111
Wife’s Help to Indian Cookery, The, 148
Wilkin & Sons of Tiptree, 75, 83Ħ84,
90, 96, 100Ħ104, 110Ħ
Double One marmalade, 112
Wilkin, Arthur, 75
Wilkin, C.J., 75
:XVODLOɁO·KDEɏE22
Yorkshire Cookery Book, A, 69
Young Ladies School of Arts, The, 67,
147
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
INDEX
OF RECIPES
Almond, and orange tart, 164
Apple and almond tart, 163
Beaten lemon marmalade, 152
Beef casserole, 158
Cakes, 167Ħ169
Chardequynce, 141
Chicken, marinated grilled, 158
Chocolate cake, 168
Christmas pudding, 163
Coconut cake, 168
Compostĥheap marmalade, 151
Condoignac, 141
Cumquat marmalade, 154
Cumquatĥorange sauce, 161
Cydonites, 140
Duck, glaze for, 160
Family marmalade, 150
GALOP marmalade, 156
Gammon, glazed, 159
*LQJHU DQG SLQN JUDSHIUXLW PDUĥ
malade, 153
*LQJHUOHPRQDQGZDWHUPHORQPDUĥ
malade, 156
Glaze for roast duck, 160
Glazed gammon, 159
Gold jelly, 155
Grapefruit jelly marmalade, 153
Grapefruit marmalade, 152
Grated marmalade, 148
Honeydew melon, relish for, 162
Honeydewĥlime marmalade, 154
Iceĥcream, marmalade, 166
Lemon jelly, Old Southern, 152
/HPRQ PDUPDODGH beaten, 152
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE
Lemon and orange marmalade, 145,
146
Lemon and tomato marmalade, 157
Lemon, watermelon and ginger
marmalade, 156
Lime marmalade, 154
Limeĥhoneydew marmalade, 154
Marmalade and vermicelli pudding,
163
Marmalade as a relish, 160
Marmalade bavarian, 165
Marmalade cinnamon sauce, 161
Marmalade iceĥcream, 166
Marmalade lemon sauce, 160
Marmalade queen pudding, 163
Marmalade raisin cake, 167
Marmalade ring, 168
Marmalade sauce, runny, 161
Marmalade sherry sauce, 160
0DUPDODGHWULÀH
Marmalade walnut cake, 167
0ɉORPHOL, 140
Mincepies, 165
0XɷQVRUDQJHPDUPDODGH
Old Southern lemon jelly, 152
Orange and almond tart, 164
Orange and lemon marmalade, 145,
146
Orange and peach marmalade, 157
Orangeĥcumquat sauce, 161
Orange jelly marmalade, 150
Orange marmalade, 146, 147,
2UDQJHPDUPDODGHPXɷQV
Orange marmalade syrup for
pancakes, 162
177
Orange marmalade whip, 166
Orange pineapple marmalade, 156
Orange walnut marmalade, 155
Peach and orange marmalade, 157
Peaches, drie marmalade of, 142
Pineapple and orange marmalade,
156
Pink grapefruit and ginger marmalade,
153
Pippin marmalet, 145
Plombière sauce, 161
Pork casserole, 158
Preserved oranges after the Portugall
fashion, 144
Puddings and desserts, 162Ħ167
Puddings, marmalade for, 151
4XLQFH PDUPDODGH KLVWRULF
recipes, 142, 144
Quodiniacke of quinces, 143
178
Redcar marmalade, 154
Relish, marmalade as a, 160
Relish for honeydew melon, 162
Rhubarb and marmalade crumble,
spicy, 165
Runny marmalade sauce, 161
Sandwiches, 170
Sauces, 160Ħ162
Snowdon pudding, 162
Special thick marmalade, pressure
cooked, 150
Sutton pie, 164
Tangerine jelly marmalade, 153
Tarts, Viennese, 169
Three ĥ fruit marmalade, pressure
cooked, 155
Tomato and lemon marmalade, 157
Transparent marmalade, 147
7ULÀHPDUPDODGH
THE BOOK OF MARMALADE