1. food and drink

TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
A
‘ ny Tripe or Neats Feet or Calves Feet…’, plate 3 from Twelve Cries of London,
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TRIPE
A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
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The Decline of Tripe
by Roy Shipperbottom
and
Elder: ‘A Good Udder to Dinner’
by Lynda Brown
PROSPECT BOOKS
2011
First published in Great Britain in 2011 by Prospect Books at
Allaleigh House, Blackawton, Totnes, Devon TQ9 7DL.
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Tripe Trade by Marjory Houlihan was in 1988, by Neil Richardson,
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Shipperbottom was in 'LVDSSHDULQJ)RRGV3URFHHGLQJVRIWKH2[IRUG
Symposium on Food and Cookery 1994ĪīE\3URVSHFW%RRNV
7RWQHV7KH¿UVWSXEOLFDWLRQRIµ(OGHU³$*RRG8GGHUWR'LQQHU´¶
by Lynda Brown was in Petits Propos CulinairesĪī
© 2011, this edition, Prospect Books.
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Houlihan, the estate of the late Roy Shipperbottom, Lynda
Brown.
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Gallery, 1 Kings Court, Water Lane, Wilmslow, Cheshire SK9
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accordance with the Copyright, Designs & Patents Act 1988.
BRITISH LIBRARY CATALOGUING IN PUBLICATION DATA:
A catalogue entry for this book is available from the British
Library.
Typography by Lemuel Dix and Tom Jaine.
ISBN 978ĥ1ĥ903018ĥ81ĥ1
Printed and bound in Malta by Gutenberg Press Ltd.
CONTENTS
,QWURGXFWLRQ
The Decline of Tripe, by Roy Shipperbottom
A Most Excellent Dish! Tales of the Lancashire Tripe Trade,
by Marjory Houlihan
Afterword
Elder: ‘A Good Udder to Dinner’, by Lynda Brown
7
13
161
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6
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
THE DECLINE OF TRIPE
T
here were 260 specialist tripe shops in Manchester in
1906: in 1994 there are none. In 1924 there were ten
tripe works in the area belonging to members of United
Cattle Products Ltd. and, additionally, some independent tripe
dressers: seventy years later tripe dressers no longer operate in
the city or in the county of Greater Manchester. Parry Scraggs of
Liverpool say that thirty years ago there were nine tripe dressers
in Liverpool and there are now only nine in England, Scotland
and Wales. There are certainly only nine members of The
National Association of Tripe Dressers, three in Yorkshire and
others in Leicester, North Devon, Brighton, Newark, Liverpool
and Perth. There are nonĥmembers in Stockton, South Shields
and Padiham, Lancashire.
Tripe is part of the stomach of an animal, usually an ox,
FOHDQVHGDQGPDGH¿WIRUHDWLQJ$IWHUWKHDQLPDOLVVODXJKWHUHG
the stomachs are removed and go into a special room to be
cleaned with spray rods. EEC conditions for the approval of meat
plants insist that further treatment of the stomachs must take
place in a separate unit. The cleaned paunches, which are chilled
and may be frozen, are bought by tripe dressers whose function
is to remove membranes which envelop the stomach and then
boil the tripe. After cooking, the tripe is bleached and trimmed
or dressed. These operations are simple, a certain skill with a
scrubbing brush was once necessary to remove a membrane
and leave behind fat. This prevented weight loss and was then
SUHIHUUHGE\FXVWRPHUVEXWLWLVGLɷFXOWWRXQGHUVWDQGZK\VRPH
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
7
boys were formally apprenticed to the trade unless it was cheap
labour. Within living memory the equipment of the tripery or
WULSHZRUNVFRQVLVWHGRIPHWDOWDQNV¿OOHGZLWKVFDOGLQJKRW
water, a table on which to scrub and scrape the tripe and tubs
¿OOHGZLWKZHDNEOHDFK7KHHTXLSPHQWWRGD\FRQVLVWVRIDODUJH
washing machine drum with vanes revolving in hot water which
removes the mucous membrane from one side of the stomach.
The stomach is then placed in a ‘Parmentière’, sometimes known
as the ‘carborundum’ which describes the abrasive interior which
removes the visceral membrane and fat. As the name indicates,
the ‘Parmentière’ was designed to remove potato skins. The
WULSHLVIXUWKHUFOHDQHGDQGLQVSHFWHGDQG¿QDOO\FRRNHGDWDERXW
Ħ60°C, after which it is bleached in a very dilute peroxide in
DWDQNRUµEHFN¶DQG¿QDOO\ULQVHG$µEHFN¶LVDOVRWKHQDPHIRU
a small stream and just as the ‘Parmentière’ replaces an early
method for abrading the membrane with a rough stone, so the
survival of the word ‘beck’ continues the advice given in the
%RRNRI+XQWLQJRIµ7KHWXQJWKHEUDLQVWKHSDXQFKDQG
the neck. When they be washed be well with the water of the
EHFN¶Ī+DOOLZHOO'LFWLRQDU\RI$UFKDLF:RUGVī
Cattle have four stomachs; the paunch or rumen which
provides seam tripe and the reticulum which is smaller and yields
WKHSUHIHUUHGKRQH\FRPEWULSH7KHGLɷFXOWĥtoĥclean omasum
or Bible bag is often used for pet food. The abomasum or black
tripe is sometimes known as manifold except in Ashtonĥunderĥ
Lyne and district where it is called what must be one of the
ugliest names for a food... slut. ‘Slutty’ is a Lancashire dialect
word for dirty; the same tripe in Burnley is known as ‘ladies
tripe’. The terms for various parts of tripe vary from town to
town. The tripe dresser also prepares ‘Wezand’ or weasand,
sometimes known as bellrope; it is the oesophagus, a ringed
WXEHZKLFKLVERLOHGVOLWOHQJWKZD\VDQGÀDWWHQHG
Tripe dressers also deĥhair, skin and boil cowheels and collect
WKHQHDWVIRRWRLODQGRWKHURSHUDWLRQVFRQVLGHUHGWREHRɱHQVLYH
ERWKWRPRGHUQVHQVLWLYLWLHVDQGWKH3XEOLF+HDOWK$FWRI
8
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
which imposed a duty on councils to impose a system of hygiene
on the trade.
A modern works has stainless steel tables and tanks, stainless
screens and extractors, and one can only enter by wading through
a disinfectant footbath. The enforcement of strict hygiene
regulations by the inspectorate insisting on expensive equipment
has discouraged some tripe dressers who, complaining that
WKH\FRXOGQRWDɱRUGLWRUWKDWWKHUHWXUQVZRXOGQRWFRYHUWKH
cost, have gone out of business. But in the past it has been a
prosperous trade for some and as Marjory Houlihan has shown
in $0RVW([FHOOHQW'LVK7DOHVRIWKH/DQFDVKLUH7ULSH7UDGH, some
tripe families became prominent in politics and property. She
also prepared a Bolton Tripe Map indicating the distribution of
76 tripe shops in 1911 Ħ they are now all closed and her long list
of Lancashire tripe dressers and dealers in 1924 would today be
limited to two tripe dressers and a few dealers who operate on
a franchise basis as distributors to butchers’ shops and market
stalls.
Restaurants specializing in serving tripe dishes and other
RɱDOH[LVWHGLQHYHU\/DQFDVKLUHWRZQ7KHYDULRXVIDPLOLHVLQ
addition to operating tripe works, had developed a number of
shops as outlets. They also often had behind the shop a café
or restaurant where tripe and cowheel dishes were always on
the menu. Hills had a prominent restaurant in Manchester,
above Marks and Spencer, and Vose’s of Bolton opened, in 1917,
a restaurant in Wigan, seating 300, with panelled walls, palm
trees and a ladies orchestra, and called it the Tripe de Luxe
5HVWDXUDQWDQG7HD5RRP:KHQDQXPEHURIWULSH¿UPVLQWKH
1920s combined together to form United Cattle Products Ltd
the number of restaurants increased and every Lancashire town
had at least one UCP shop and restaurant with the red oval sign
proclaiming Purity and Quality. The Pall Mall Restaurant opened
in Manchester in 1964 in a new building with a banqueting
suite, selfĥservice restaurant and a shop front on the principal
shopping street.
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
9
A MOST EXCELLENT DISH!
TALES OF THE LANCASHIRE
TRIPE TRADE
MARJORY HOULIHAN
14
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
WHERE HAVE ALL THE TRIPE
SHOPS GONE ?
I
little thought, as I chatted to an old neighbour, just what
our conversation would lead to. We talked about Mrs Dean’s
early life in Bolton, and all the changes that had taken place
in the town. ‘When I were a girl, mi mother kept a tripe shop up
Halliwell, an that’s summat y’never see these days.’
‘That’s true,’ I replied. We went on to discuss other matters,
and I forgot her earlier comment.
Later that evening, however, remembering our conversation,
the thought struck me with some force Ħ you never DO see tripe
shops nowadays! As if to reinforce the germ of an idea, among
the next day’s post was a newsletter from the Local History
Study Group, and at the meeting which followed I put forward
the subject of tripe as a possible project which might be of local
interest.
One thing led quickly to another. I contacted the Bolton
(YHQLQJ1HZV, and thanks to the kindness of the Editor my
appeal for information was published a week later. That night the
phone hardly stopped ringing; it seemed that nearly all Bolton
was anxious to tell me about tripe! By the end of the evening it
was obvious that the project had aroused a great deal of interest,
and that therefore it was a subject well worth looking into.
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I should like to thank the following for their help and support:
Members of the Bolton WEA Local History Study Group.
The Tripe Dressers’ Association; Mr R. Shiach; Mr J. Hill; Mr
K. Hemmingway; the late Mr B. Emms; Mr R. Byrne; Messrs A.
& R. Entwistle; Mr S. Bradshaw; Mr P.T. Briggs; Mr Hayhurst;
Mrs Worsick; Mrs M. Goodier.
The local history and reference librarians of public libraries in
Accrington, Ashtonĥinĥ0DNHU¿HOG%ODFNEXUQ%ODFNSRRO%XU\
Burnley, Chorley, Clitheroe, Farnworth, Bolton, Haslingden,
Heywood, Lancaster, Liverpool, Manchester, Nelson, Colne,
Oldham, Preston, Ramsbottom, Rawtenstall, Salford, St Helens,
Stalybridge, Stockport, Sheffield, Warrington, Wigan and
Longsight, Manchester; also the Coĥoperative Union Library;
DQGVWDɱDW0DQFKHVWHU3RO\WHFKQLF/RFDO6WXGLHV8QLWDVZHOO
as at Hollins Faculty.
Mr Bob Dobson, Mrs P. Vose, Mrs GraftonĥGreen, Cath
Goodall. The editors and staff of the %ROWRQ(YHQLQJ1HZV,
0DQFKHVWHU(YHQLQJ1HZV, 6WDO\EULGJH5HSRUWHU, 6W+HOHQV6WDU, (FFOHV
Journal.
BBC Radio Manchester, Bill Evans, Mr F. Smith, Fred
Laycock, Bill Davies, and many other Boltonians too numerous
to mention individually, for their memories, loan of photographs,
drawings and other material. Last but not least, my husband
Peter, for his tolerance and understanding in putting up with
hastily cooked meals, bad temper and absentĥmindedness on my
SDUWDOORIZKLFKKHKDVKDGWRVXɱHUGXULQJWKHWLPHLWWRRNWR
research and compile this book.
0DUMRU\+RXOLKDQ%ROWRQ
16
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
CONTENTS
CHAPTER ONE
What is Tripe?
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7KH7ZHQWLHWK&HQWXU\
19
CHAPTER TWO
From Abbatoir to Factory
29
CHAPTER THREE
The Principal Combines
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6RPH7ULSH'UHVVHUV3DVWDQG3UHVHQW
.503URGXFWV
5LFKDUG%\UQH/WG
+LOO+LOH\
(QWZLVWOH·V
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0DUVKRI:DONGHQ
3HQGOHEXU\·V7KH7ULSH&RORQ\
34
CHAPTER FOUR
Bolton Ħ ‘Trotter Town’
Some Bolton Tripe Families
Vose’s
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%ROWRQLDQV7DONLQJ7ULSH
67
CHAPTER FIVE
Tripe Ħ Past, Present and Future
93
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
17
CHAPTER SIX
Tripe Recipes
Traditional
1HZDQG8QXVXDO'LVKHV
5HFLSHVIURP$EURDG
97
APPENDIX
Lancashire Tripe dressers and Dealers, 1924
18
131
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
CHAPTER ONE
WHAT IS TRIPE ?
A
ccording to the 2[IRUG(QJOLVK'LFWLRQDU\, the word tripe
comes from the Old French tripe or trippe, meaning the
entrails of an animal, and the principal meaning is the
first or second stomach of a ruminant, especially of the ox,
SUHSDUHGDVIRRGĪ)RUPHUO\WKHZRUGFRXOGDOVRUHIHUWRWKH
HQWUDLOVRIVZLQHRU¿VKī
An ox’s stomach is very large, occupying threeĥquarters
of the abdominal cavity. It consists of four parts; the rumen,
reticulum, omasum and abomasum, the lastĥnamed having a
mucous membrane and popularly termed the ‘true’ stomach.
An ox weighing between 700 and 800 lb will produce about
OERIWULSHDOWKRXJKWULSHVFDQYDU\IURPWROELQZHLJKW
depending on the age and breed of the animal. The rumen, or
paunch, is the largest part of the tripe, and is known as seam.
The walls of the reticulum, or second stomach, are covered
with branched ridges, giving it a honeycomb appearance, which
gives this part its name. Leaf tripe is soĥcalled because of the
membrane of leafĥlike folds of the abomasum; this has a high
fat content. Another part of the animal, the oesophagus or
food pipe, is also classed as tripe, and is known as weasand.
All these parts pass through the same cleaning and preparation
processes.
Tripes from other animals are also considered edible.
Sheep’s tripes, for example, are used in the preparation of pieds
HWSDTXHWVjOD0DUVHLOODLVH and petarram, two delicacies from the
south and southĥZHVWRI)UDQFH7KHXVHRIWKH¿UVWVWRPDFK
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
19
7KH IRXU FKDPEHUV RI D FRZ·V VWRPDFK DQG RWKHU SDUWV GHDOW ZLWK E\ WULSH
dressers.
of beef is well known in dishes such as the famous tripes à la
mode de Caen and JUDVĦGRXEOHjOD/\RQQDLVH, two other French
specialities. Finally, of course, the intestines of pigs have long
been used to enclose sausages.
EARLY HISTORY
The origins of tripe dressing are lost in the mists of time. It has
a known history of over 2,000 years, having been esteemed by
both the Greeks and the Romans. Athenaeus praised it; Homer,
the father of Greek poetry, noted the excellence of the tripe
SUHSDUHGLQKRQRXURI$FKLOOHV7KRPDV0XɱHWĪLQKLV+HDOWK·V
Improvement, edited after his death by Christopher Bennet in
īGHFODUHGWKDWµ7KHWDVWHRI7ULSHVGLGVHHPVRGHOLFDWHWR
the Romans, that they often killed oxen for the Tripes’ sake.’
It was said that William the Conqueror enjoyed tripe
accompanied by Neustrian apple juice. However, it is unlikely
20
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
that the cooks of the Middle Ages were adept in the preparation
of tasty, wellĥseasoned dishes!
The 2[IRUG(QJOLVK'LFWLRQDU\cites numerous early references
to tripe. It is mentioned by Langland in Piers Plowman, by
Caxton and, of course, by Shakespeare, whose character Grumio
enquires, in 7KH7DPLQJRIWKH6KUHZ, ‘How say you to a fat tripe
Ħ¿QHO\EURLOHG"¶,Q6LU7KRPDV(O\RWJDYHDGHVFULSWLRQRI
µWKHLQZDUGVRIEHDVWHVDVWU\SHVDQGFK\WWHUO\QJHV¶Ī&KLWWHUOLQJV
are the smaller intestines of the beast, prepared for eating by
IU\LQJRUERLOLQJī
In 1662 Samuel Pepys wrote, ‘Dined with my wife upon a
most excellent dish of tripe of my own directing Ħ covered with
mustard Ħ of which I made a great meal.’ A year or so later he
again records, ‘Home to dinner on tripes.’
Arbuthnot’s +DUPRQ\LQ8SURDU begs ‘To invite you to eat a
Tripeĥsoup and Fricassey of Sheep’s Trotters.’ Oliver Goldsmith
praised the dish, as did Charles Dickens. In %DUQDE\5XGJH, one
of the characters was regaled with ‘a steaming supper of boiled
tripe and onions, to which meal he did ample justice.’ It has been
said that King Edward VII was also fond of a dish of tripe.
The word ‘tripe’ was sometimes used in a derogatory sense,
when applied to a person. ‘Tripeĥcheeks’, for example, described
someone with coarse, blowsy cheeks. Shakespeare, in +HQU\9,
wrote, ‘Thou damned Tripeĥvisag’d Rascall.’
A ‘Tripeĥwife’ was a female tripe dresser, not always of
respectable character. ‘Was not thy mother a notorious
tripewife?’ demands Brome, in his &LW\:LW.
Trotters and cowheels are also mentioned in the literature of
the past. Mayhew, in /RQGRQ/DERXUDQGWKH/RQGRQ3RRU, wrote,
‘For supper there is a sandwich, a meat pudding or a trotter.’
&RZKHHOVWHZHGVRDVWRIRUPDMHOO\LVUHFRPPHQGHGE\0XɱHW
‘A tender cowheel is counted restorative.’ John Wesley advised
in his 3ULPLWLYH3K\VLF of 1747: ‘Take a cowheel from the Tripeĥ
house, ready drest.’
The word ‘tripe’ has been used to describe things with a
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
21
supposed resemblance to tripe. ‘Tripeĥvelvet’ or ‘Tripe de Velours’
was an imitation of wool or thread, mock velvet, velveteen or
fustian. A 1714 book of rates records: ‘Eighty tripes of velvet, per
piece of 10 Ells, 3s od.’
Rockĥtripe or WULSHGHURFKH was an appellation given to various
HGLEOHOLFKHQVLQ&DQDGDZKLFKDɱRUGHGDVOLJKWO\QXWULWLRXV
but bitter and purgative food, as described by Alexander Henry
in his 7UDYHOVDQG$GYHQWXUHVLQ&DQDGDDQGWKH,QGLDQ7HUULWRULHV,
published in 1809.
THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
Tripe has played its part in making the north and midlands the
workshops of Britain. As the cotton trade grew in importance,
mill hands did not have enough time or energy to cook meals
in their homes during the week and tripe therefore became the
ideal food Ħ cheap but nourishing.
Tripe dressing was an acquired skill. In the Archives
Department of Manchester Public Libraries there is a copy of
DQDSSUHQWLFHVKLSLQGHQWXUHĪGDWHG-DQXDU\īELQGLQJRQH
Joseph Newton of Manchester, ‘a poor child of fourteen years’,
to James Lane, tripe dresser, also of Manchester.
7KHPDJLVWUDWHV·FHUWLÀFDWHWKDW
ZDVDWWDFKHGWR-RVHSK1HZWRQ·V
DSSUHQWLFHVKLSLQGHQWXUH
22
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
CHAPTER THREE
THE PRINCIPAL COMBINES
PARRY SCRAGG LTD
7KLV¿UPZDVIRXQGHGE\)UDQN3DUU\ZKRERXJKWDWULSHZRUNV
in Carruthers Street, Liverpool, around 1922. A limited company,
)'3DUU\Ī0LONĥPHDWī/WGZDVIRUPHGLQDQGWULSHZDV
dressed in the same building for over 60 years.
,Q3DUU\6FUDJJ/WGZDVIRUPHGZLWKDSHUFHQW
VKDUHKROGLQJRI)'3DUU\/WGDQGSHUFHQWRI6FUDJJĪ1RUWK
:HVWHUQī/WG7KHDPDOJDPDWLRQZLWKWKH6FUDJJFRPSDQ\
ĪLWVHOIRYHU\HDUVROGīZDVEURXJKWDERXWE\D&RPSXOVRU\
Purchase Order being served on Scragg’s premises in Borax
Street, Liverpool, compelling them to look for alternative
accommodation.
:KHQWKHWZR¿UPVPHUJHGWKH\H[WHQGHGWKH&DUUXWKHUV
Street works, bought the present factory in 1979, and at the time
of writing are looking at other property with a view to further
expansion.
About 18 people are employed inside the works, and selfĥ
employed franchise agents obtain sales in Scotland, the midlands
and the south. There is a van delivery service to the Lake District
in the north, and down to Crewe, the Potteries and Bangor in
north Wales.
0U6KLDFKWKHPDQDJLQJGLUHFWRURI3DUU\6FUDJJFRPĥ
mented that in a rough line stretching between Glasgow and
Edinburgh people are now buying English, or cooked, tripe.
There was a time when they would only purchase ‘raw’ tripe and
prepare it themselves. In the Border region there is no demand
34
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
at all, and in Cumbria and Northumberland there is a winter
trade only. Conversely, in Lancashire and Yorkshire the emphasis
is on summer trade.
,QWKHVRXWKD%ULJKWRQ¿UPKDVQRWUDGHLQVXPPHUDQG
KDVWROD\RɱZRUNHUVXQWLOEXVLQHVVVWDUWVXSLQWKHZLQWHU6R
although there is some demand for the product in other areas
of Britain, it is in Lancashire and Yorkshire where the main sales
tradition exists.
In the old days, clogs and sacking aprons were worn, but
nowadays Parry Scragg’s employees wear wellingtons and blue
boiler suits at the ‘dirty’ end of the works and white boiler suits
at the ‘clean’ end. They also have large rubber aprons, covering
the whole front of the body, which can be easily washed down
after the day’s work.
Approximately 1,700 ox bellies are processed by Parry Scragg
every week, even more in the summer months, and around one
and a quarter million gallons of water is used every year Ħ the
FRPSDQ\¶VZDWHUELOODPRXQWVWRPRUHWKDQWKHIXHOELOOĪOLJKWLQJ
KHDWLQJDQGIXHORLOVFRPELQHGī
0U6KLDFKSUHGLFWVWKDWWKHWUDGHZLOOSUREDEO\FKDQJHGLUHFĥ
tion in the future, with tripe being prepared in sauces and meat
SURGXFWVVLPLODUWRSkWpVXVHGDVD¿OOHUIRUVDQGZLFKHVDQG
canned as readyĥmeals. ‘At present there are only about seven
abattoirs killing more than a thousand cattle a week, and we are
now in competition with other tripeĥeating countries such as
France, Belgium, Spain, Portugal and Nigeria.’
UNITED CATTLE PRODUCTS
The UCP has been well known in the Greater Manchester and
/DQFDVKLUHDUHDVIRUXSZDUGVRI\HDUV7RGD\WKHFRPSDQ\
mainly supplies wholesalers, although there are still several tripe
stalls in local markets owned or managed by the UCP.
The UCP was formed in 1920 with the amalgamation of
VRPH/DQFDVKLUHWULSHGUHVVHUVVXFKDV-6+LOO¶V5DOSK
Mason of Burnley, Cox of Bury and Vose of Bolton. The
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
$QDGYHUWLVPHQWIRU8QLWHG&DWWOH3URGXFWV/WGIURPWKHV
36
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
rapid growth of the combination led to the building of new
K\JLHQLFIDFWRULHVVXFKDVWKRVHDW/HYHQVKXOPHĪīDQG
0RQWRQĪī7KHKHDGRIILFHVRIWKHHQWHUSULVHZHUHLQ
Manchester.
7KHEXONRIWKHFRPSDQ\¶VSURGXFWLRQZDVDW¿UVWVROGWR
individual retailers, giving them the advantages of guaranteed
quality and continuity of supply.
Fifty years after the formation of the UCP, longĥserving
employee Fred Wetters recalled his early years in the trade. He
ZHQWWRZRUNIRUD6WRFNSRUWWULSHGUHVVHULQDQGEHJDQ
his day by collecting the post and picking up orders from two
shops ĦWKH¿UVWIURPXQGHUDVWRQHLQWKH\DUGDQGWKHVHFRQG
from under a vinegar bottle on the counter!
The UCP also advised retailers on improving or reorganizing
their businesses; free advertising was provided in the form of
showcards and recipe books. The firm expanded into other
¿HOGVVXFKDVSLHĥPDNLQJPHDW¿VKSRXOWU\DQGGHOLFDWHVVHQ
SURGXFWV7KH8&3ÀRXULVKHGLQWKHQRUWKRI(QJODQGDOWKRXJK
it has campaigned in the south, trying to persuade housewives
there that tripe is good for digestion and the domestic budget.
UCP tripe is sold ‘perfectly cooked’, ready for serving. The
firm’s advertising emphasized the savings in fuel costs and,
‘There are no bones to waste Ħyou buy a pound and eat a pound.’
New UCP depots were usually planned with diningĥrooms
behind the shops, where hot and cold meals could be obtained.
These became landmarks in Lancashire, with their warm, redĥ
painted fronts Ħ ‘in order to brighten up the grey streets!’ Ħ and
the famous oval sign. There were UCP cafés and restaurants in
0DQFKHVWHU%ODFNSRRO6RXWKSRUW2OGKDP%ROWRQ0DFFOHVĥ
¿HOG5RFKGDOH%XU\6WRFNSRUW:LJDQDQGPDQ\RWKHUWRZQV
each assuring quality, comfort and ‘no fancy prices’.
7KH0DUNHW6WUHHW5HVWDXUDQWĪ+LOO¶VīLQ0DQFKHVWHUZDVIRU
¿IW\\HDUVRQHRIWKH8&3¶VEHVWNQRZQHDWLQJĥhouses. In June
1964 the company opened another restaurant in Pall Mall.
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
37
7KHVHYHQW\ĦIRRWFKLPQH\RI$UQROG·V7ULSH:RUNVEHLQJGHPROLVKHGLQ
EHHQDQLQÀX[RIFRRNHGPHDWVDQGRWKHUGHOLFDFLHVRQHFRXOG
EX\WULSHRɱWKHUDWLRQGXULQJWKHZDUWLPH\HDUVVRSHRSOHZHUH
glad to try other products.
Another factor was marketing, or the lack of it; tripe never
had modern marketing techniques applied to it.
My brother put forward one or two ideas, and we had special
FDUGVGLVSOD\HGLQRXUUHWDLORXWOHWVUHDGLQJ³(QWZLVWOH¶V7ULSH
IRU3HRSOHRI7DVWH´7KDWVORJDQGLGXVTXLWHDORWRIJRRG
Entwistle’s old No.3 stall on Ashton Market is still selling tripe.
7KHWULSHGUHVVLQJ¿UPRI$UQROG¶VLQ$UQROG6WUHHW5LFKDUG
Entwistle’s main competitor in the early years, was taken over
$Q (QWZLVWOH DGYHUWLVHPHQW SULQWHG RQ D
WUDPWLFNHWcirca
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
by the UCP in 1920 and the premises were rebuilt. A former
HPSOR\HH+DUU\6XWFOLɱHUHFDOOHG
Before the 1920s it was a very dirty job, but they modernized
it and lined the walls with white tiled bricks, which cost about
GHDFKWROD\
At the beginning of the war production was transferred to the
UCP works at Rochdale. The Arnold Street works was used
again for a short time after the war but soon closed.
BRIGGS’ TRIPE WORKS
This oldĥHVWDEOLVKHG0DQFKHVWHU¿UPLVQRZRZQHGE\3HWHU
Briggs:
7KH¿UPZDVIRXQGHGLQE\P\JUHDWĥgrandfather, Absalom
Briggs, who brought his business over from Halifax by horse
and cart. He opened a shop opposite the Osborne Theatre on
Oldham Road, where he prepared and sold tripe. In course
of time, as the business extended, his son Fred found larger
premises in Viaduct Street, Beswick, from where he supplied
other shops, again by means of horse transport.
The present factory in Newton Heath was built in 1922, and
another shop, 47 Church Street, Newton Heath, was purchased.
Peter’s father, Leslie Briggs, was brought up with his brother and
sisters at this shop. When Leslie and his brother started working,
the hours were from 7.00 a.m. to 11.00 p.m. Peter himself began
LQWKHEXVLQHVVLQDWWKHDJHRIDQGDWWKDWWLPHWKHUH
were ten employees; today there are just three.
Peter’s work entailed deĥhairing the cowheels, scraping cows’
EHOOLHVFROOHFWLQJUDZWULSHVIURPWKH:DWHU6WUHHW$EDWWRLUĪD
MREKHKDWHGīJHQHUDOFOHDQLQJGXWLHVDQGGHOLYHULQJWRVKRSV
in addition to keeping their own shop well supplied. The shop
was then run by Peter’s aunts, who were kept busy selling tripe,
cowheels, sheep’s trotters, elder and neatsfoot oil.
3HWHUWRRNRYHUWKHUXQQLQJRIWKH¿UPLQWKHVDQG
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
expanded into other lines, such as black puddings, which
they made themselves, roast chicken, pies and so on. A shop
in Bleckley village, which had been theirs originally, was kept
going by a crippled old lady. ‘She hadn’t been outside the door
for twenty years; her life was selling the odd quarter of tripe or
half a cowheel.’ When she died, Briggs took the shop over, but
barely three years later the building was demolished.
7KHVEURXJKWDERXWRWKHUGLYHUVL¿FDWLRQVDQGDUHWUDFĥ
tion in the labour force. The inevitable decline in business made
it necessary to begin manufacturing other products. And the
reason for the decline? ‘I believe it is the availability of so many
other fast foods, such as beefburgers and pizzas, and of course
the older generation of tripe eaters is dying out.’
3HWHUGRHVQ¶W¿QGLWHDV\WRVWDWHKLVRZQSUHIHUHQFHDPRQJ
tripe dishes. He likes it curried, fried with bacon, and in winter
the ubiquitous tripe and onions. ‘But for all the fancy ways,
there’s nothing to beat cold, fresh tripe, with plenty of salt and
vinegar, and a nice English tomato!’
WORSICK’S OF COLNE
This was a wellĥNQRZQIDPLO\WKH¿UPUXQE\+DUROG:RUVLFN
and his sister Elizabeth and a labourer, Paddy. Harold’s widow,
0UV,VDEHO:RUVLFNĪZKRZDVERUQLQīGHVFULEHGWKHLU
life:
Harold used to do the tripe dressing at our cooking place at
the bottom of Buck Street, near the Nags Head in Windy
Bank. Paddy lived across from the cooking place and worked
for Harold all his life. The Nags Head and all the houses have
been pulled down now.
Our goods originally came from the Argenta company
Ħ Harold liked their tripe Ħ and then we bought from Leeds
abattoirs. The tripe, trotters and elder all had to be washed
and scrubbed, boiled and simmered until tender, and then put
into round, real oak tubs. I used to dress them, getting all the
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
CHAPTER FOUR
BOLTON
T
Ħ ‘TROTTER TOWN’
he %ROWRQ(YHQLQJ1HZVRI$SULOFDUULHGDVKRUW
article on the origin of the nickname of Bolton
Wanderers:
Trotter has nothing to do with an animal Ħ it is the oldĥtime
GHVFULSWLRQ RI WKH PDQ IURP ³7URWWHUWRZQ´ DQG ³%ROWRQ
7URWWHUV´ZHUHVRQDPHGLWLVVDLGDIWHUDKRD[RU³WURW´SOD\HG
on a visitor.
An oil painting used to hang in the Bar Parlour of the Swan
Hotel showing a man with a wooden leg, which he held in a
bucket of hot water. The visitor had been drawn into a wager as
to who could hold a leg in the water the longest. Such practical
jokes were the essence of Bolton trotting. Bolton Wanderers
EHFDPHLQORFDOSDUODQFHWKH³7URWWHUV´6RPHKRZHYHUSUHIHU
to stick to the perhaps more logical explanation that it is derived
from the Boltonians’ liking for trotters and cowheels, and Ħ
³:KDWPRUHVXLWDEOHV\PEROWKDQDVKHHS¶VIRRWIURPWKHWULSH
VKRS"´6RWRGD\LQ%ROWRQHGLEOHWURWWHUVDUHVKHHS¶VIHHW6RPH
ĪPRVWO\IURPWKH6RXWKīWKLQNDWURWWHULVDSLJ¶VIRRWOLWWOH
use to point out that a pig’s progress little resembles the quick
movement of a sheep. But in this town of trotting, trotters
DUHWURWWHUVDQGSLJV¶IHHWDUHSLJV¶IHHW7KLVLVFRQ¿UPHGE\
³7XPR¶'LFNR¶%RE¶V´LQKLV³/DQNLVKHU'LFNVKLRQDU\´E\WKH
H[SODQDWLRQWKDW³$WURWWHULVDVKHHS¶VIRRWERLOHG´¶
In 1902 Charles Roeder published ‘Notes on Food and Drink
in Lancashire and the Northern Counties’ in the Lancashire and
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
67
Cheshire Antiquarian Society’s journal. In the article he quoted
Ben Brierley: ‘PigĥNLOOLQ¶LQ/DQFDVKLUHZDVDJUHDWIDPLO\DɱDLU«
:HKDYHWKHQRWWOLQVIDPLOLDULQ%ROWRQZKLFKZDV³WK¶EDOO\R¶WK¶
SLJEHLJKOWLQWRWULSH´¶)DPLOLDULWPD\KDYHEHHQEXW,KDYH
never heard the term ‘nottlins’ used in Bolton.
Judging from the number of advertisers in local directories
from the nineteenth century onwards, there have certainly
been enough purveyors of tripe products in Bolton to satisfy
the town’s working population.
One of the earliest references to tripe dealing in the town
is an advertisement which appeared in the %ROWRQ([SUHVV of 27
September 1823:
Peter Heron Ħ Tripe Dealer, Top of Taylor Brow, Deansgate, Begs
to express his sincere acknowledgements for the very liberal
Support he has received from his Friends and the Public in
general since his commencing the above Business, and assures
his customers that no attention shall be wanting on his part to
maintain the high name his TRIPE has acquired for its prime
and superior qualities.
Peter Heron takes this opportunity to inform his Friends,
that he can supply them with TRIPE, HEELS, &c as usual, at
his Shop every Friday, and Sunday Evenings at 7 o’clock.
NB. Calves’ Heads prepared for Mock Turtle.
7KH%ROWRQ'LUHFWRU\ for 1836 records ‘Robert Haslam, Leather
DQG7ULSH'HDOHU¶Ī7KLVGLUHFWRU\DOVROLVWVDFHUWDLQ*LOHV9RVH
Blacksmith ĦSHUKDSVDUHODWLYHRIWKHµ7ULSH9RVHV¶"ī7KH
directories for 1841, 1843 and 1849 give more names, three or four
at most, and there is some evidence to suggest that tripe dressers
may have preferred to be designated under other trades, such
as butcher, provision dealer or even waste dealer. For example,
the 1843 directory cites ‘Robert & Peter Haslam, Leather and
Neatsĥfoot oil dealers’, with no mention of tripe at all; in 1849
they are listed under Tripe Dressers. Again, in the 1843 directory
WKHUHLVD7KRPDV/HYHUEXWFKHURI0RRU/DQHLQKHLV
68
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
classed as a tripe dresser. Six other tripe dressers are recorded in
%ROWRQLQ$GPXQG%DUORZRI6KLSJDWHV:LOOLDP)OHWFKHU
of Folds Road, William Haslam of Deansgate, Robert Monks of
+XOPH6WUHHW(OOLV5DWFOLɱHRI%UDGVKDZJDWHDQG+HQU\:DWHUV
of Lum Street.
From the 1870s there was a marked increase in the number
of tripe dressers and dealers; by the turn of the century there
ZHUHPRUHWKDQVRPHZLWKVHYHUDOVKRSVRUPDUNHWVWDOOV%\
the year 1911 there were over 70 names listed in the local trade
directory.
Inevitably, there were some failures, and one such was
reported in the Bolton Journal of 21 March 1902. Under the
heading ‘A Tripe Dealer’s Failure’, it was related thus:
A meeting of the creditors of Joseph Nuttall, 67, Great Moor
6WUHHWWULSHGHDOHUZDVKHOGRQ:HGQHVGD\DWWKHRɷFHRIWKH
2ɷFLDO5HFHLYHU0U7+:LQGHU([FKDQJH6WUHHW
The debtor’s statement of affairs showed liabilities
DPRXQWLQJWRĸDQGDVVHWVĸOHDYLQJDGHILFLHQF\RI
ĸ7KHFDXVHVRIIDLOXUHZHUHDOOHJHGE\WKHGHEWRUWREH
trade losses, loss by death of a horse and loss by accident. In his
REVHUYDWLRQRIWKHFDVHWKH2ɷFLDO5HFHLYHUVDLGWKHEDQNUXSW
ZDVDWULSHGUHVVHUE\WUDGHDQGIRUWKHODVW¿YH\HDUVKHKDG
also been a retail tripe dealer. In April 1900 he became tenant
of a tripe dressing works in Back Spring Gardens, Bolton. The
working utensils there belonged to the landlord. The business
was conducted at a loss, and the bankrupt became unable to
pay his accounts.
Joseph Nuttall had been in the tripe business since at least
1871, when he worked for his father, Henry, at 121 Deansgate. He
ZDVWKHQDJHGDQGZDVDOUHDG\GHVLJQDWHGDWULSHGUHVVHU7HQ
years earlier the shop had been run by Peter Higson, another
tripe dresser. Higson was in business at 86 Spring Gardens in 1871
DQGDURXQGKHPRYHGWR6W+HOHQV5RDG2YHU+XOWRQ
probably to retire.
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
69
An advertisement
IURP
Joseph’s progress was evidently not as fortunate. After the
death of his father, his mother Elizabeth took over the business
LQWKHHDUO\V,Q-RVHSKKDGDVKRSDW'HDQVJDWH
and by 1902 he was residing at 220 Derby Street and renting the
illĥfated tripe works in Back Spring Gardens. His sister Mary was
running the Deansgate shop.
Perhaps Joseph rented the tripe works from his more
successful predecessor, Peter Higson, and it was Higson who
instituted the bankruptcy proceedings.
So the tripe business, like any other, had its pitfalls and not
everyone made a fortune from the trade. Certainly, there were
easier ways of making a living!
8QGHUWKH3XEOLF+HDOWK$FWRIDQ\RQHZLVKLQJWR
SXUVXHWKHµRɱHQVLYHWUDGH¶RIWULSHERLOLQJLQ%ROWRQKDGWRKDYH
WKHSHUPLVVLRQRI%ROWRQ&RUSRUDWLRQ%\WKH&RUSRUDWLRQ
Sanitary Committee were of the opinion that there were enough
tripe boilers in the town, which was unfortunate for Great and
Little Bolton Coĥoperative Society Ltd. In the February of that
year the Inspector of Nuisances, Mr Spencer, visited the Coĥop
slaughterhouses in All Saints Street and found that tripe was
being boiled. A charge was brought against the Society at a
meeting of Bolton Justices in the April.
70
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
The Society evidently considered that it was worth defending
the charge, and a Mr Fielding appeared before the magistrates
on its behalf. His argument was that there was, in fact, no case
to answer:
inasmuch as they did not carry on the trade of tripe boiling.
They simply bought cows alive, slaughtered them and, to
SUHYHQWZDVWHFRQYHUWHGWKHRɱDOLQWRWULSH7KH\ZHUHPHUHO\
butchers, and the boiling of bellies was incidental to the business
of a butcher. True, the Coĥoperative Society had applied for a
licence for… tripe boiling; but… by having such a licence they
could buy bellies from whom they wished and convert them
into tripe. The Corporation in their wisdom Ħ and he never saw
a more intelligent lot of men in his life ĦVDLG³:HZLOOQRWDOORZ
WKHPWRFDUU\RQWULSHERLOLQJ´DQGWKHUHIRUHWKH&Rĥoperative
Society were prevented from treating with other butchers for
the purchase of their bellies.
7KHGH¿QLWLRQRIWUDGHZDVEX\LQJDQGVHOOLQJDQGRQO\
utilizing the bellies of their own cows… did not constitute
buying. They simply boiled what was their own, and they did not
buy the bellies for the purpose of making tripe. If a conviction
WRRNSODFH«WKH\ZRXOGKDYHWRWKURZWKHRɱDODZD\DQGWKLV
would be a monstrous and iniquitous waste.
The magistrates were not convinced by Mr Fielding’s argument
DQGWKH\GHFLGHGLQIDYRXURIWKH&RUSRUDWLRQ¿QLQJWKH&Rĥop
WHQVKLOOLQJVĪSīDQGFRVWV
Having failed to set up their own tripe manufactory, the
&RRSORVWQRWLPHLQ¿QGLQJDQH[LVWLQJEXVLQHVVWRWDNHRYHU
By June 1896 they were renting, at 10 shillings per week, a tripe
boiling works at 4 Back Derby Street; the working plant was
purchased from the previous tenant, George Cain. From 6 July
WULSHDQGFRZKHHOVZHUHEHLQJERLOHGDQGRɱHUHGIRUVDOHLQWKH
Society’s shops ‘unapproachable for quality and freshness’.
In 1901 the owner of the tripe works, Robert Hilton, sold out
and it became the property of the Coĥop. There was a complete
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
71
SODQWIRUWULSHERLOLQJDQGDOVRWDOORZUHILQLQJĪQRWKLQJZDV
ZDVWHGīFRQVLVWLQJRIYHUWLFDOERLOHUWULSHSDQVDQGWDOORZYDWV
Just when this tripe works closed is uncertain, but Bolton Coĥ
op hasn’t done any tripe boiling since before the War, although
several Coĥoperative Societies in the north were members of the
1DWLRQDO$VVRFLDWLRQRI7ULSH'UHVVHUVXQWLOWKHODWHV
SOME BOLTON TRIPE FAMILIES
VOSE’S
The name Vose was once a household word for miles around.
From modest beginnings the family’s tripe business expanded
to such an extent that by the time it was taken over by the UCP
there was a tripe works and more than a dozen retail outlets
throughout the district.
7KH9RVHĪRU9DXVHīIDPLO\FDPHRULJLQDOO\IURPWKH+RUZLFK
and Chorley areas, where they had been involved in the cotton
WUDGH-DPHVDQG+HOHQ9DXVHKDGVHYHUDORɱVSULQJRIZKRP
7KRPDVĪERUQī(OL]DEHWKDQG5REHUWĪERUQDW%ODFNURG
LQDQGīDQG-RKQĪERUQDW&KRUOH\īDUHUHOHYDQW
to this story.
Some time in the 1830s the family moved to Bolton, where
James started up as a coal merchant; his son Robert was a farrier
and John was a dyer by trade,
Around this time there lived in Rawson’s Court a waste dealer
QDPHG-RQDWKDQ5DWFOLɱH+LVVRQ(OOLVPDUULHG(OL]DEHWK9RVH
LQ$XJXVW(OOLVOLNHKLVIDWKHUGHDOWLQµZDVWH¶DQGE\
when he was living in Bradshawgate, his trade was classed as
tripe dressing. Two years later Robert Vose, blacksmith, married
Elizabeth Seddon.
,QWKH5DWFOLɱHVUHVLGHGDW&KXUFKJDWHZLWKEXVLQHVV
premises on Bradshawgate. Four years later Robert Vose was
UHFRUGHGDWERWKWKHVHDGGUHVVHVDQGWKHFHQVXVFRQ¿UPV
that the entire Vose family and their servants were living at the
72
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
7KHH[WHULRURIWKH8&3ħ9RVH·VUHVWDXUDQWLQ%UDGVKDZJDWH%ROWRQ7KHLQWHULRUV
RIWKHJURXQGDQGÀUVWÁRRUVDUHVKRZQRYHUOHDI
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
73
7KH ÀUVWĦÁRRU GLQLQJĦURRP DW WKH 8&3ħ9RVH·V UHVWDXUDQW LQ %UDGVKDZJDWH
Bolton.
7KHJURXQGĦÁRRUFDIpDWWKH8&3ħ9RVH·VUHVWDXUDQWLQ%UDGVKDZJDWH%ROWRQ
74
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
DQG,EHOLHYHLQ2OGKDPWKH\FDOOHGLW³VOXWFK´ Ħ it was dark,
FRORXUHGDQGZULQNOHG,UHPHPEHUP\VLVWHURQFHVDLG³2K\¶
know Mrs Soĥanĥ6R":HOO¶HUIDFH¶DVJRQHMXVWOLNHPDQLIROG´
My husband loved tripe and trotters but he didn’t like
cowheel. I loved it, but he wouldn’t have it! My daughter also
liked cowheel, so I used to cook steak and cowheel. My husband
ZRXOGFXWDSLHFHRɱDQGHDWLWUDZEXWKHZRXOGQ¶WKDYHLW
cooked!
At one time the Halliwell family who had the Wheatsheaf
VKRSĬ9RVH¶V1HZSRUW6WUHHWĭOLYHGRQWKHSUHPLVHVGRZQDW
the works on Silverwell Lane. This was when they had horses,
DQG0U+DOOLZHOOZDVWKHKRUVHPDQ:KHQWKH¿UPGLGDZD\
with the horses and went on motors, the house was turned
LQWRRɷFHV$IWHU0UV+DOOLZHOOGLHGKHUGDXJKWHUNHSWWKH
Wheatsheaf shop on for a time.
Mr Haslam recalls living with his parents over the tripe shop
on Newport Street for about six years until he was ten. Earlier,
his mother had worked for a tripe shop in Tyldesley.
Mother became Manageress of the Bradshawgate café and then
the Newport Street shop about 1946Ħ7. Steak and cowheel was a
favourite dish with the patrons. Then there was the thick seam
WULSHZKLFKZDVWKH³IDFH´SLHFHĦ smooth, with plenty of fat;
ZKLWHKRQH\FRPE³ZL¶VDOWDQ¶YLQHJDULQHYHU\¶ROH´VKHHS¶V
trotters done in milk, and pigs’ feet, which were brown and
would be eaten with Beetop sauce. Neatsfoot oil was purchased,
too; some would rub it on their chests if they had a cold.
Mr Haslam himself served in the shop when he was eight
years old. He recalls that orders for the following day were
written out on sixĥ by fourĥinch tickets and taken to the works
in the evening. The tripe was stored in ice and water in big
porcelain vats until required.
I remember UCP shops in Blackpool, facing the North Pier,
and in Farnworth, near Longcauseway. I think the Bradshawgate
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
83
café was the last to close in Bolton. A great saying of Mother’s
ZDV³.HHSWRWKH8&3PRWWRĦ never go into t’ kitchen emptyĥ
KDQGHG´
Mr Hanson remembers how, as a young plasterer, he helped
to put the mosaic under Vose’s shop window on Churchgate
corner; the background was white and the name was in black
mosaic. He used to watch the tripe dressing on Bradshawgate
and also recalls Charlie Smith’s works.
You could get tripe suppers for 9d or 10d, with tripe and onions,
steak pudding and chips and so on. People used to go round the
SXEVZLWKWULSHRQVWLFNVWKHFU\ZDV³3XWSOHQW\DOLNHUĬLH
DOHJDUDOHYLQHJDUĭRQ´7KHQWKHUHZDVĥrabbit pie or tripe in
milk, with a parsley sauce.
On St Helens Road, at the bottom of Blackledge Street,
there was a row of little low houses, and the second from the
end was a tripe shop. Mrs Boardman was a typical redĥfaced
/DQFDVKLUHZRPDQZKRVROGEODFNRU³UDJ´WULSHĪ0DQLIROGZDV
its proper name, but people used to call it rag tripe because it
UHVHPEOHGDSLHFHRIROGGLVKFORWKī+HUKXVEDQG-DFNZDVD
knockerĥXSKHFKDUJHGGĪSīDZHHN
84
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
The UCP used to do funeral and wedding teas; there were
DORWRIIXQHUDOVLQWKHV)RONZRXOGVHWWKHFRɷQLQWKH
window so that people passing could look in at the corpse. It
was quite a boast at one time Ħ³:HNHSW¶HUIRUDZHHN´7KHUH
was also a special hearse for mother and child, in the days when
women often died in childbirth. Incidentally, there was also a
VSHFLDO³IXQHUDOFDNH´Ħ a large slabĥcake which was sold by the
Maypole dairy on St Helens Road.
&KLOGUHQXVHGWRSOD\DW³-DFNVDQG%REEHUV´RU³3HDĥ
NQXFNOH´ZLWKERQHVWKH\JRWIURPWURWWHUVDQGSLJV¶IHHW«
,QDWWKHDJHRI%LOO'DYLHVZHQWWRZRUNIRUWKH8&3
DWWKHLUZRUNVEHKLQG%UDGVKDZJDWH7KH¿UVWRIKLVPDQ\MREV
ZDVWRSUHSDUHFRZKHHOVDQGKLVZDJHZDVĸĥ7sĦGĪĸī
Everyone was issued with clogs and bibbed overalls, but they
made their own aprons out of sacking. Twice a week Bill had to
$QDGYHUWLVHPHQWIURP
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
take two bags of clogs down to Rogan’s clog shop or Churchbank
for mending. All drivers were inspected before going out on
deliveries Ħ they had to be smart and tidy in appearance.
When raw tripes were brought from the slaughterhouses,
WRJHWKHUZLWKIRXUFRZKHHOVWRHDFKWULSHĪDµVHW¶RIWULSHīWKH\
ZHUH¿UVWKXQJRQKRRNV7KHQWKH\ZHUHFXWGRZQZDVKHGDQG
given a preliminary cooking to help get the skin of by scraping.
The tripes were then cooked properly. The older the animal was,
the longer it took to cook, and an experienced cook was able
to tell how old an animal was just by picking up the seam. Then
they were placed in boilers for bleaching, after which they were
put into iced water. When Bill worked on the night shift his last
job was to lift the tripes out of the water, ready for delivering
to the shops.
The night shift lasted from 6.00 p.m. to 6.00 a.m.; day
shifts started at 6.00 a.m. and continued until the day’s work
was completed, which might be four or five o’clock in the
DIWHUQRRQĪKDUGO\HYHUODWHUWKDQ¿YHīDQGWKHQWKH\ZRUNHGRQ
Saturday morning as well. Everything had to be scrubbed down
WKRURXJKO\EHIRUHJRLQJRɱWKHVKLIWWKHÀRRUVLQFOXGHGULJKW
down the back street outside the works and on to Bradshawgate
itself.
Soon after I started work, about the year 1936, we held a cricket
match on Bradshawgate. The night shift used to have their
supper on top of the boiler, and some nights there would also
be a Corporation gang working on the tramlines. They would
KDYHDYHKLFOH¿WWHGZLWKDUFOLJKWVDQGRQRQHSDUWLFXODUQLJKW
they threw out a challenge to the UCP men. We stood tripe
boxes on the tramlines for wickets and play began. Our only
spectator was a policeman on night beat.
%LOO'DYLHVZDVDPRQJWKH¿UVWWREHFDOOHGĥup in 1939 Ħ
into the Militia, the ‘Hore Belisha men’. Three months later
war was declared and he was in the army for the duration. The
first Christmas he was in the Forces, his wife was sent one
86
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
CHAPTER FIVE
TRIPE
Ħ PAST, PRESENT AND
FUTURE
I
QWKHVWKHWRZQVDQGFLWLHVRIWKHLQGXVWULDOQRUWKZHUH
still served by individuals in small shops, though many of
these shops were owned by, or bought their products from,
the larger combines. Ten years on, however, these places were
closing down at a rapid rate, or else changing over to other lines.
Ī2QH%ROWRQVKRSZDVWUDQVIRUPHGLQWRDµ'RJJ\%HDXW\6DORQ¶ī
Modern cafés and restaurants were still being opened well into
the 1960s, but most of the retail trade was by then being carried
on through market stalls or butchers’ shops.
One of the last of the little shops is the Tripe Shop on
Melbourne Street, Stalybridge, run by Mrs Marion Wilde, who
buys her products from Parry Scragg Ltd. The prestigious UCP
restaurants have also closed, the premises being given over to
products unconnected with tripe.
What have we gained or lost by these changes? And how has
WKHWUDGHEHQH¿WWHGLIDWDOO"
7KHJDLQKDVEHHQLQJUHDWHUHɷFLHQF\%HFDXVHRIFHQWĥ
ralized control, businesses are more costĥHɱHFWLYHHVSHFLDOO\
from the point of view of administration. With the advent of
refrigerated vans and motorways, goods are delivered much
IDUWKHUD¿HOG%HWWHUPDUNHWLQJLVDOVRSRVVLEOHDOWKRXJKWKH
modern techniques available are not always fully exploited.
On the debit side, we have lost a lot of individuality. The
ODUJHUFRPELQHVFDQQRWRɱHUWKHVDPHNLQGRISHUVRQDOVHUYLFH
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
93
$6HFRQG:RUOG
:DU DGYHUWLVHĦ
PHQWIURP8&3
as formerly given. Older people preferred the little shops which
were, in the words of one devotee, ‘Very friendly places, warm
and homely.’ The trade then was more of a public service than
a business.
6KRSFORVXUHVZHUHERXQGWRDɱHFWFXVWRPWRDODUJHH[WHQW
)RONZHQWWRWKHWULSHVKRSVSHFL¿FDOO\WREX\WULSHRURWKHURɱDO
products, whereas today, ‘You’re lucky if you see any at all!’ Other
than on townĥcentre market stalls, some few pieces of tripe
might be found languishing on a tray in a butcher’s window, in
direct competition with a host of other meats on display there.
94
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
CHAPTER SIX
TRIPE RECIPES
TRADITIONAL
T
ripe can produce any number of tasty dishes to suit any
time of the year, but it is especially popular during the
summer months. Cold tripe seasoned with salt, pepper
and vinegar and served with salad is a delicious and ideal food.
However, tripe is in season all the year round, and as reliable and
desirable in January as in August.
To keep tripe at its best, place it in fresh cold water in a
cool place. DON’T allow it to dry out. Run cold water over it
before use.
The following are the most generally prepared recipes here
LQWKHQRUWKRI(QJODQGĪ$OODUHIRUĦ4 persons, unless stated
RWKHUZLVHī
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
97
TRIPE AND ONIONS
Here are three variations on a theme, from Lancashire, Yorkshire
and Wales.
LANCASHIRE
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Peel the onions and stew them with the tripe, just covered with
water, until tender.
Drain, reserving half the pourings. Cut the tripe into pieces;
chop the onions.
Melt the butter in a heatĥSURRIGLVKDQGPL[LQWKHÀRXU
slowly add the tripe and onion pourings.
Stir until boiling, add the milk, seasoning, tripe and onions,
DQGVLPPHUIRUWRPLQXWHV
Serve with toast. For four people.
YORKSHIRE
OEGUHVVHGWULSH
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VDOWDQGSHSSHU
ŻƆSLQWHDFKPLONZDWHU
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R]ÁRXU
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Cut the tripe into biteĥsized pieces and put into a saucepan with
the onions, milk and water; season to taste.
Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for an hour, or
until the tripe is tender.
0L[WKHEXWWHUDQGÀRXUWRJHWKHUDQGZKHQDOOWKHÀRXULV
absorbed break into small pieces and put into the tripe, stirring
all the time until the liquid thickens.
Transfer to an ovenproof dish, sprinkle grated cheese over
the top and brown, either in the oven or under a hot grill.
98
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
WALES
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1 mediumĦVL]HGRQLRQ
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Cut the prepared tripe into 2ĥinch squares, skin and dice the
onion; season to taste.
Simmer the tripe and onion in the milk and water for 1 hour,
until the tripe is tender.
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VWLULQDOLWWOHVWRFNIURPWKHWULSH5HWXUQWKHÀRXUPL[WXUHWR
the main saucepan. Stir well and bring back to the boil.
Cook gently for 2Ħ3 minutes. Serve hot with boiled Gower
potatoes and creamed button mushrooms. Serves 3Ħ4.
Here are some more popular northern dishes.
STUFFED TRIPE
A large piece of tripe is filled with a mixture composed of
breadcrumbs, chopped bacon, chopped onion, some sage and
seasoning. The edges are well secured, then the whole is placed
into a greased baking tin and covered by strips of bacon. This is
then cooked in the oven for about an hour.
HUDDERSFIELD TRIPE
Tripe is thinly sliced and covered with sliced onions which have
been marinated in vinegar, salt and pepper. This is eaten as it is,
without cooking.
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
99
TRIPE PLOT
A nourishing invalid dish.
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pepper and salt
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Cut the tripe into very small pieces and place in a casserole
dish.
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Transfer the tripe into a warm dish. Add the beaten egg to
the liquor in the casserole, then stir over a low heat until the
VDXFHWKLFNHQVĪ1%'RQRWDOORZWKHKHDWWRUHDFKERLOLQJ
SRLQWī
Pour the sauce over the tripe, garnish with parsley and serve,
with toast if required.
As well as tripe, we have, of course, a fondness for cowheel here
in the north, and as a Boltonian I must not omit trotters. So here
are some recipes using these products.
COWHEEL BRAWN
FRZKHHO
1 onion
FKRSSHGFRRNHGEDFRQīDERXWR]Ĭ
pepper, salt
Wash the cowheel and stew very slowly, preferably overnight,
with the onion.
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Add the cooked, chopped bacon and salt and pepper to
taste.
Pack it into a pudding basin, with a saucer on top to weight
it, if necessary.
When cold and set it may be sliced up thinly and served with
mustard, or mixed pickles and bread and butter.
100
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
COWHEEL STEW
FRZKHHO
ODUJHRQLRQ
ERXTXHWJDUQL
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Scald, clean and split the heel, put into a large saucepan, with
the onion, bouquet garni, bayleaf and vinegar.
Bring almost to the boil, then let simmer gently for 4 hours.
Empty the contents into a basin, put the saucepan back on
WKHKHDWDQGPHOWWKHEXWWHULQLWDGGLQJQH[WWKHÀRXUDQG
seasoning. Next blend in the cowheel gravy and leave to cook
for some minutes.
Meanwhile, bone the cow heel and cut up the meat into neat
pieces; slice the cooked onion and add to the meat.
Pour the sauce over the meat mixture, serve with mashed
potatoes and garnish with parsley. Mustard may be served with
the dish, if liked.
BATTERED TROTTERS
VKHHS·VWURWWHUV
1 onion
ŻƆOEFDUURWV
RUFHOHU\VWDONV
pepper, salt, water
EDWWHU
6WHZWKHWURWWHUVYHU\VORZO\ĪLWFDQWDNHDOOGD\īLQHQRXJK
water to cover.
Meantime, make a fairly thick batter and leave to stand until
required.
Take the trotters from heat and bone them. Dip into the
EDWWHUĪWKLQQHGGRZQZLWKMXLFHIURPWURWWHUERLOLQJDIHZ
VSRRQIXOVLVHQRXJKī
Fry the battered trotters. Boil down the trotter juice and
serve as a gravy with the cooked meat and vegetables.
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
101
LANCASHIRE TRIPE DRESSERS AND
DEALERS,
1924
The original directory listing was arranged alphabetically by name. We
have sorted this long list by location. In a number of cases, a satellite
town, for example Padiham, is listed discretely as well as under the main
centre. Cross references have been inserted. There are several larger
concerns with branches in more than one town. These are listed at the
end, but each branch has also been entered in its proper location.
Accrington
%$,1(6&:KDOOH\5RDG$FFULQJWRQ
%5$'6+$:-53ODQWDWLRQ6W$FFULQJWRQ
BULLCOCK Mrs E, 76 Blackburn Rd, Accrington
+$5*5($9(6:%ODFNEXUQ5G$FFULQJWRQ
HARRISON Miss A, 33 Burnley Rd, Accrington
HEATH T, 6 Elephant Street, Accrington
IRELAND Miss A, 48 Richmond St, Accrington
QUINN J W, 133b Blackburn Road, Accrington
RATCLIFFE G, Argyle St, Accrington
SHUTT M & Mrs E, 70 Abbey St, Accrington
SINGLETON George, 81 Nuttall St, Accrington
SMITHIES W & A, Argyle Street, Accrington
SOUTHWORTH R, Croft St; 3 Cross St & 111 Abbey Street, Accrington
STURGESS W H, 1 Bold Street, Accrington
WALKER R, Argyle Street, Accrington
:$/6+:5$UJ\OH6W'HYRQVKLUH6W$FFULQJWRQ
YOUNG W, 3 Eagle St, Accrington
Alderley Edge
GLEAVE Mrs M, Heyes Lane, Alderley Edge
Altrincham
ASHTON Charles, 1 Peter Street, Altrincham
FRANCIS G, 171 Manchester Rd, Broadheath, Altrincham
HOWARD Mrs S, 40 George St, Altrincham
HULME R H, 16 Railway Street, Altrincham
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
131
Ardwick, see also Manchester
&$:/(<)UDQFHVE0DQFKHVWHU5G$UGZLFN
'<621:DWVRQĪ%UDQFKRI8&3ī6WRFNSRUW5G$UGZLFN
+,//-6ĪZKROHVDOHīĪEUDQFKRI8&3/WGī$VKWRQ2OG5G
&KDQFHU\/DDQG%UXQVZLFN6W$UGZLFN
JEPSON Edgar, 113 Ashton Old Road, Ardwick
PENDLEBURY J R, 319 Hyde Rd, Ardwick
AshtonĥonĥMersey
GOUGH Mrs L, 33 Cross St, AshtonĥonĥMersey
O’HARA E, 91 Cross St, AshtonĥonĥMersey
SMITH Jane, 111 Cross St, AshtonĥonĥMersey
AshtonĥunderĥLyne
ARNOLD & HOUGH Ltd, Arnold St; 126 Cavendish St; 100, 101 Market
+DOODG6WDPIRUG6W.DWKHULQH6W6WRFNSRUW
Rd; 31 Warrington St & 76 Stamford Sq, AshtonĥuĥLyne
BARNES J, 763 Oldham Rd, Bardsley, AĥuĥL
BERTENSHAW J, 261 Queen St, Hurst, AĥuĥL
%5('%85<-RKQ/WG2OGKDP5G6WDPIRUG6WUHHW$ĥuĥL
DAVIES John, 203 Curzon Rd, Hurst, AĥuĥL
ENTWISTLE R, 49 Wellington Rd; 107 Warrington St & 103 Market
Hall, AshtonĥuĥLyne
HALLIWELL G, 26 Booth St, AshtonĥunderĥLyne
HUGHES J, 30 Henrietta St, AshtonĥuĥLyne
HULME J jun, 262 Katherine St, AshtonĥuĥL
NADEN C, 99 Stockport Rd, AshtonĥunderĥLyne
NICHOLLS J, 16 Chester Sq, AshtonĥuĥLyne
OLDHAM T, 77a Stockport Rd, AshtonĥuĥLyne
RIDGWAY A, 48 Victoria St, AshtonĥuĥLyne
TAYLOR E, 179 Katherine St, AshtonĥuĥLyne
THOMPSON M A, 3 Oldham Rd, AshtonĥuĥLyne
TURNER R, 120 Hillgate St, Hurst Pk, AĥuĥL.
WILLIAMSON H, 122 Oldham Rd, Waterloo, AĥuĥL
Atherton
KAY Ralph & Sons, 13 Church St & 89 Market St, Atherton
ROSCOW E, 83 Tyldesley Rd, Atherton
Bacup
%5,'*(67KRV5RFKGDOH5G%DFXS
//2<'0UVD0DUNHW6WUHHW%DFXS
132
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
BarrowĥinĥFurness
%$552:0$67(5%87&+(56¶$662&,$7,21&DYHQGLVK
St & 109 Dalton Rd, Barrow
SHACKLETON M, 127 Dalton Rd, BarrowĥinĥF’ss
Baxenden
SOWERBUTTS H, 463 Manchester Road, Baxenden
Besses O’th Barn
BRIGGS B, 128 Bury Old Rd, Besses o’th’Barn
Birkenhead
0,77<-/WG*UDQJH5G&RQZD\6W%LUNHQKHDG
Blackburn
ABBOTT Richard, 90 King Street, Blackburn
$,16:257+-RKQ%ROWRQ5RDG%ODFNEXUQ
ALMOND Wm Ltd, j works, George St W, Blackburn
ALMOND William, 28 New Bank Road, Blackburn
BAINES Mrs Alice Ann, 117 Darwen St, Blackburn
BAINES Robert S, 26 New Market St, Blackburn
BARNARD G, 106 Whalley Range, Blackburn
BAXENDALE James, Pump Street, Blackburn
BENTLEY Miss A, 13 Furthergate, Blackburn
BRADLEY H, 134 Darwen St, Blackburn
BROOKS Mrs Ann Ellen, Whalley Banks, Blackburn
BROW Wm, 31 Charnley St, Mill Hill, Blackburn
BYRNE R Ltd, Prospect House, Albert St, Mill Hill & Ainsworth
Street, Blackburn
&/(0,16216*ULɷQ6W:LWWRQ%ODFNEXUQ
COPPOCK W, 66 Montague Street, Blackburn
'2%621-+4XHHQ6W*W+DUZRRG%ODFNEXUQ
DUXBURY John, 310 Bolton Rd, Blackburn
EASTHAM T, 88 Scotland Rd, Blackburn
)267(57:%ODFNEXUQ5G*W+DUZRRG%ODFNEXUQ
GALLAGHER J, 6 Hermitage St, Rishton, Blackburn
*5,06+$:::KDOOH\1HZ5RDG%ODFNEXUQ
HACKING E, 102 Audley Range, Blackburn
HACKING Mrs R, 8 Whalley Old Rd, Blackburn
HAMMOND Mrs M, 62 Furthergate, Blackburn
HAWORTH Mrs E, 198 Audley Range, Blackburn
HAYES M, 21 New Chapel St, Mill Hill, B’brn
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
133
ELDER: ‘A GOOD UDDER TO
DINNER’
E
lder is a form of tripe; more precisely, boiled cow’s udder.
The term appears to be Middle Dutch, and was probably
first recorded in Ray’s 1RUWK&RXQWU\:RUGVĪī,W
was used in the north and northĥwest of Britain, appearing in
Scotland and Ireland, down the northĥwest side of England from
Lancashire almost as far as the Severn estuary, and stretched
inland diagonally across to Lincolnshire and Yorkshire. It is still
used in parts of Yorkshire and Lancashire. In virtually every case,
the term refers to the udder of a cow or horse, occasionally even
that of a woman Ħ but, I am informed, only women in the lowest
sections of society.1
Not surprisingly, little is known of its history. Though udder
DSSHDUVWREH¿UVWPHQWLRQHGDVDIRRGLQĪ2('īLWV¿QHVW
hour, I suppose, came on 11 October 1660, when Samuel Pepys
in the company of his wife and Mr Creed, dining at the ‘Leg’ in
.LQJ6WUHHWWKRXJKWVXɷFLHQWO\RIWKHLUµJRRGXGGHUWRGLQQHU¶
to record it in his diary. That at least assured a place for it in
posterity and the 2(' and the (QF\FORSHGLDRI*DVWURQRP\.
Since then, for the most part, it’s been downhill all the
ZD\7KRXJK/D9DUHQQHĪīDQG&KDUOHV&DUWHUĪīIRU
H[DPSOHJLYHUHFLSHVDQG+DQQDK*ODVVHĪīUHFRPPHQGV
both a roast and forced udder, udder is more often conspicuous
by its absence. Kettner, writing in 1877, notes that udder is
no longer abundant in the market though it formerly had a
recognized position in French cookery. Cassell’s 'LFWLRQDU\RI
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH
161
Cookery ĪīJLYHVLWEXWRIPRUHUHFHQWDXWKRUV,KDYHEHHQ
DEOHWRFRQVXOWRQO\(VFRɷHUDQG3URVSHU0RQWDJQHVHHPWR
include an entry of any note ĥĥFRQ¿UPLQJSHUKDSV)UHQFKDɱHFĥ
tion over English apathy.
Long gone from the daily diet of most of us, udder is thus
a vanishing food which no one particularly wants any more
and which has escaped the interest of everyone, except these
GD\VWKHRGGHQYLURQPHQWDOKHDOWKRɷFHU2 In all probability,
therefore, we are witnessing a food in terminal decline. Newly
introduced EEC regulations governing the handling of elder at
the slaughterhouse, making it more economic and less trouble
for the abattoir to sell elder to the pet food market than for
human consumption, are helping to speed its general demise.3
To the best of my knowledge it survives almost exclusively
in a small cluster of towns in industrial West Yorkshire Ħ
.HLJKOH\%UDGIRUGĪZKHUHE\WKHZD\LW¶VFDOOHGXGGHUī+DOLID[
Huddersfield, Dewsbury, Wakefield and Castleford, and in
East Lancashire, especially in the market halls of places like
Accrington, Wigan, Burnley, Nelson, Colne, Bacup, Preston
DQG5DGFOLɱHRQWKHRXWVNLUWVRI0DQFKHVWHU,GRQ¶WWKLQNIRU
H[DPSOH\RXZLOO¿QGLWLQ/HHGV4ĪWKRXJK\RXZLOO¿QGPDZV
RUSLJ¶VWULSHīRU%DUQVOH\RURQWKHIDUZHVWVLGHRI/DQFDVKLUH
Liverpudlians, apparently, won’t touch the stuff. I myself
discovered it whilst wandering around Halifax market one day;
many northern markets are often the last bastions of genuine
traditional foods Ħ the ones our working forefathers really ate, as
RSSRVHGWRWKRVHZKLFKÀRZIURPWKHSHQVRIKDUGĥpressed food
ZULWHUVRUWRXULVWERDUGVGHVSHUDWHWR¿QGVRPHWKLQJRWKHUWKDQ
roast beef and Yorkshire pudding to put in their brochures. That
in turn led to a visit to a small tripery in Denholme, a craggy
Pennine hill village above Bingley and Bradford.
The tripery is run by a fatherĥandĥVRQWHDPZLWKWZRVWDɱ
WKRXJKDWWKHIDWKHULVQRZRɷFLDOO\UHWLUHG7KHIDPLO\
KDYHEHHQWULSHGUHVVHUVIRU¿YHJHQHUDWLRQVDQGOLNHPRVWWULSH
dressers, have their own retail outlets, in their case a stall in
162
TRIPE: A MOST EXCELLENT DISH