4002 McCALL'S ® Page 1 of 4 Place on fold PATTERN MARKINGS ADJUST IF NECESSARY CUTTING AND MARKING LAYOUT NOTES GRAINLINE: Place on straight grain of fabric, an even distance from selvage or fold A pattern is made to fit body measurements, with extra ease for comfort and style. Adjust pieces before placing on fabric. Adjust back waist, sleeve and finished garment lengths using McCALL’s EasyRule Guide. SHRINK FABRIC not labeled pre-shrunk. Press. CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width. Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used. For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD) - fold fabric with Right Sides Together. Pattern pieces may interlock more closely for smaller sizes. FOLD LINE: Place on fold of fabric. CUTTING LINE: For cutting. SEAM LINE: For stitching. SEAM ALLOWANCE: Distance between cutting and seam lines, usually 5/8” (1.5cm). On multi-sized patterns seam allowance is included, but not printed on tissue. NOTCHES AND SYMBOLS: For matching pattern pieces. 46” (117cm) FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT SYMBOL: The finished garment measurements at bust and/or hip are printed on your Front pattern pieces. The measurement includes Body Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease. The measurement excludes pleats, tucks, darts and seam allowances. Measurements are also printed on the back of the pattern envelope when space is available. ∗ DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD) - For fabrics with nap, fold fabric crosswise, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold of fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in same direction and place over lower layer, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER (B). TO SHORTEN: Crease on Easy-Rule Guide. Fold necessary amount. Tape in place. A B For SINGLE THICKNESS - place fabric Right Side Up. Before CUTTING place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Overlap margins. Pin. Cut ACCURATELY through fabric and pattern on cutting line. Cut notches outward. TO LENGTHEN: Cut on dotted lines of Easy-Rule Guide. Spread necessary amount. Tape over paper. BEFORE REMOVING PATTERN, transfer markings to Wrong Side of fabric. Two ways which may be used quickly are the Pin and Chalk Pencil method or Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel. When Easy-Rule Guide is not on tissue, lengthen or shorten at lower edge. This McCall pattern may have cutting lines for several sizes. Select the proper cutting line or pattern pieces for your size. If pattern is petite-able, layouts illustrated are suitable for corresponding Petite sizes. ★ Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this piece. Open fabric. For “Cut 1” pieces, cut piece once on single layer of fabric with piece face up on right side of fabric. For “Cut 2” pieces, cut piece twice on single layer of fabric, once with piece face up and once with piece face down on right side of fabric. CUTTING LAYOUTS FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B, C, D use pieces: 3 & 4 22" (56cm) all sizes CAFTAN C, D HAT use pieces: 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 use pieces: 9 & 10 45" (115cm) fabric without nap all sizes 45" thru 60" (115cm thru 150cm) fabric without nap all sizes SELVAGES SELVAGES 10 9 SELVAGE 3 4 9 FOLD FOLD 5 SELVAGES TUNIC A, B CAFTAN C, D OR PANTS TUNIC A, B AND PANTS 1 use pieces: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8 7 2 CROSSFOLD 10 PATTERN PIECES 2 4 6 FOLD 45" (115cm) fabric without nap all sizes 1 3 SELVAGE FUSIBLE INTERFACING use pieces: 9 & 10 22" (56cm) all sizes 8 7 HAT 5 SELVAGES 8 5 10 1 2 3 8 CROSSFOLD 9 4 FOLD SELVAGE CROSSFOLD SELVAGE 60" (150cm) fabric without nap all sizes 6 3 10 9 SELVAGE SELVAGE SELVAGE 4 TUNIC A, B OR CAFTAN C, D HAT 1 FRONT 9 BAND 2 BACK 10 CROWN 60" (150cm) fabric without nap all sizes 5 SELVAGES 3 HEAD WRAP (CUT BY SUGGESTION) (No Layout Given) 1 5 SELVAGE 3 FRONT FACING 2 4 BACK FACING FOLD SELVAGES 5 SLEEVE PANTS 4 5 8 SELVAGE 8 1 6 5 6 FRONT 7 BACK 8 POCKET 7 3 2 4 FOLD SELVAGE © The McCall Pattern Co., 2003 All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 4002 - Page 2 of 4 SLIPSTITCH-Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a thread of underneath fabric. SEWING INFORMATION FABRIC KEY STAYSTITCH-Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usually 1/2” (13mm) from raw edge). 2. FRONT AND BACK VIEW B OR D With right sides up, pin 1/2" (1.3cm) flexible trim to each FRONT (1), centering over placement line closest to center front. Stitch in place. Stitch BACK (2) to front at shoulders. Apply 1" (2.5cm) flexible trim over remaining placement line in same manner. TOPSTITCH-On outside, stitch 1/4” (6mm) from edge, seam or previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or stitch where indicated in instructions. SEAM ALLOWANCES Use 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated. Trim enclosed seam allowances into layers. Notch outer curves. UNDERSTITCH-Open out facing or underside of garment; stitch to seam allowance close to seam. Trim corners. SEWING DIRECTIONS Clip inner curves. TUNIC A, B OR CAFTAN C, D PIN AND FIT Stitch FRONT FACING (3) sections together at center,from lower edge to square. ALL VIEWS Pin or baste seams, RIGHT SIDE TOGETHER, matching notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams. Illustrated in shorter length. For loops, cut four pieces of cording each 2-1/4" (6cm) long. Fold each piece of cording in half and pin over each circle on right front. having raw edges even. Stitch in place. PRESS Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated. Clip where necessary so they lie flat. GLOSSARY 1. INTERFACING Trim corners from INTERFACING, as shown. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of corresponding FABRIC sections, following manufacturer's directions. Stitch BACK FACING (4) to front facing at shoulders. Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in Sewing Instructions are explained below. EASESTITCH-Stitch along seamline, using long machine stltches. Pull thread ends when adjusting to fit. NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches 1/4” (6mm) away in seam allowance. for more control. Pin facing to front and neck edges, right sides together, matching notches, center backs, seams and squares. Stitch, breaking stitching at square. EDGESTITCH-Stitch close to finished edge or seam. Stitch front sections together at center, from lower edge to square. Trim seam allowances. Press seam allowances toward facing. UNDERSTITCH facing. FINISH-Stitch 1/4” (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one of the following: (1) Pink OR (2) Overcast OR (3) Turn in along stitching and stitch close to fold OR (4) Overlock. OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply Seam Binding. NARROW HEM-Turn in hem; press, easing in fullness if necessary. Open out hem. Turn in again so raw edge is along crease; press. Turn in along crease; stitch. REINFORCE-Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instructions, using small machine stitches. CONTINUED ON PAGE 3 4002 - Page 3 of 4 PANTS HEMS Optional: TOPSTITCH front and back along armhole seam. Turn up a 1-1/4" (3.2cm) hem on lower edge of front and back. Press. Baste close to fold. Turn facing to inside. Press. Turn under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Baste hem in place close to upper edge. Press. Catchstitch facing to seams. 1. FRONT AND BACK Stitch FRONT (6) to BACK (7) at inside leg edges. For View A or C, TOPSTITCH front and neck edges, continuing topstitching on each side of center front seam to lower edge. Pin underarm seam of garment and sleeve, matching armhole seams and notches. Stitch, leaving free below circles. REINFORCE underarm curve. TOPSTITCH hem along upper basting. Stitch center seam, matching notches and inside leg seams. Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) away in seam allowance between notches. Trim close to second stitching between notches. Press seam allowances open above notches. Turn up 1-1/4" (3.2cm) on lower edge of sleeve. Press. Baste close to fold. 3. SLEEVES Pin SLEEVE (5) to armhole edge, right sides together, matching notches, small circles and large circle to shoulder seam. Baste. Stitch. Turn seam allowances toward front and back. Turn out hem and press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edges. Replace hem. Stitch close to folded under edges. 4. FINISHING BUTTONS Bring center front openings together. Mark and sew buttons on left front opposite loops. Finish side edges below circles with a 5/8" (1.5cm) NARROW HEM, squaring stitching above large circles. Stitch POCKET (8) to each front and back at side edges, taking up a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward pocket. CONTINUED ON PAGE 4 4002 - Page 4 of 4 Pin back to front at sides, matching notches and circles. Pin pocket edges together. Cut a piece of elastic waist measurement plus 1" (2.5cm) . Insert elastic through casing. Lap ends. Hold with a safety pin. Try on and adjust if necessary. Stitch ends of elastic securely. EASESTITCH edge of band. STAYSTITCH notched edge of band. Clip to stitching. HEADWRAP Stitch from lower edge to lower circle and continue around pocket to upper edge. Stitch from upper circle to upper edge, as illustrated. Pin interfaced band to interfaced CROWN (10), right sides together, matching notches and centers. Adjust ease. Baste. Stitch. Trim seam allowances. Turn seam allowances toward crown. Stitch opening in casing, stretching elastic while stitching. If using 60" (152cm) wide fabric, cut fabric crosswise to measure 54"W x 18"L (137cm x 46cm). If using 44" wide fabric, cut fabric lengthwise to measure 54"L x 18"W (137cm x 46cm). Due to difference in fabric textures, final results of wrapping may vary. The wrapping process becomes simpler with practice, however you may wish to request a friend to help with your first attempt. Finish outer edges with a 5/8" (1.5cm) NARROW HEM, folding in fullness at corners. 3. Stitch center back seam in band lining, leaving an opening for turning. HEMS Turn up a 1-1/4" (3.2cm) hem on lower edge of pants. Press. Baste close to fold. Turn under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Baste hem in place close to upper edge. Press. TOPSTITCH hem along upper basting. EASESTITCH notched edge of band lining. STAYSTITCH notched edge of band lining. Wrapping Wrap fabric can be folded several times to form a lengthwise strip of desired width or worked with in the flat. Grab ends of wrap, gathering up ends. Clip back seam allowances below pockets. Press side seams open below clip. Baste upper edge of pockets to front. (Pockets will be held by casing.) HAT Pin band lining to crown LINING, right sides together, matching notches and centers. Adjust ease. Stitch. Trim seam allowances. Turn seam allowances toward crown. Fuse INTERFACING to wrong side of one corresponding FABRIC section, following manufacturer's directions. (Remaining sections will be used as lining.) 2. CASING AND ELASTIC With right sides together, pin lining to hat, matching centers and seams. Stitch. To make casing, turn down 1-1/4" (3.2cm) on upper edge of pants. Press. Place wrap around head and tie at on side of head. Turn under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge and stitch in place, leaving an opening to insert elastic. EDGESTITCH upper edge close to fold. Turn right side out through opening in lining. Press. Stitch center back seam in interfaced BAND (9). SLIPSTITCH opening edges of lining together. Tack lining to hat along crown seam. Spread out ends of wrap as desired.